PRINCETON,    N.    J. 


'A 


Division . 

Section    . 

Shelf. Number.. 


SCxZ^ 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2011  with  funding  from 

Princeton  Theological  Seminary  Library 


http://www.archive.org/details/eastofjordanOOmerr 


EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN 

A  RECOED  OF  TEAVEL  AND  OBSEEVATION 

W  THE   COUiXTRIES  OF  MOAB  GILEAD  AM)  BASHAW 

DURING  THE  YEARS  1875-1877 


SELAH  MEERILL 

AUCHjEOLOGIST  of  the  AMEUICAN  PALESTINE  EXPLORATION  SOCIETY 


(Itailiti)  3inu3tration^  ana  a  i^ap 


WITH  AN  INTRODUCTION  BY 

PEOFESSOR    ROSWELL    D.    HITCHCOCK    D.    D. 

PUESIUENT  OF  UNION  THEOLOGICAL  SEMINARY,  NEWYORK 


NEW-YORK 
CHARLES   SCRIBNER'S   SONS 

743   &   745   BROADWAY 

1881 


^OPYKIGHT,  1881,  BY  CHAKLES   SCRIBNEK'S  SONS. 


TO 


Professor  JOSEPH  HENRY  THAYER,  D.  D., 

"WHOSE   STEADFAST   FRIENDSHIP   I  HAVE 
FOE  MANY  YEARS  ENJOYED, 

THIS  VOLUME  IS  DEDICATED. 


PKIHGJETOIT 
INTRODUCTION. 

The  name  Palestine  occurs  for  the  first  time  in  Herodo- 
tus. Like  its  Hebrew  equivalent,  "  Pelesheth,^'  or  "  land  of 
wanderers,^'  it  meant  only  Philistia.  In  the  later  GreeJc  and 
Boman  period  it  was  applied,  as  we  apply  it,  to  the  whole 
country  occupied  by  the  Israelites  on  both  sides  of  the  Jordan. 
But  as  Canaan,  the  oldest  of  all  the  names,  meant  only  the 
"  lowland,'"'  or  country  west  of  the  Jordan,  so  now  most  people, 
when  they  think  of  Palestine,  give  it  the  same  narrow  bound- 
aries.   Eastern  Palestine  hardly  comes  into  the  account. 

And  yet  the  historic  associations  belonging  to  the  country 
east  of  the  Jordan  are  rich  and  various.  Two  and  a  half  of 
the  twelve  tribes  that  came  out  of  Egypt  under  Moses  chose 
that  side  of  the  river  for  their  home.  Syrian,  Assyrian,  and 
Chaldean  armies  marched  in  and  out  there.  Some  of  the  dis- 
banded veterans  of  Alexander  settled  there.  It  ivas  beyond 
the  Jordan  that  John  the  Baptist  began  and  ended  his  official 
career.  Nearly  six  months  of  our  Lord^s  brief  ministry  were 
spent  on  the  same  side  of  the  river.  The  Christian  Church 
itself  sought  refuge  there  when  the  Roman  legions  began  to 


vi  INTEODUCTION. 

close  in  upon  Jerusalem.  In  the  time  of  the  Antonines  the 
country  was  fall  of  cities,  with  their  temples,  theatres,  and 
baths.  In  the  fifth  century  Christian  churches,  well  organ- 
ized, were  numerous  and  flourishing. 

The  Biblical  sites,  to  be  sure,  are  not  very  many,  as  com- 
pared with  the  multitude  on  the  western  side  of  the  river. 
But  they  are  of  peculiar  interest.  The  five  cities  of  the  plain 
were  trans-Jordanic.  Penuel,  Mahanaim,  and  Succoth  are 
suggestive  names.  Nebo  and  Pisgah  are  like  Jiousehold  words. 
Bethabara,  ivherever  it  was  beyond  the  Jordan,  ivitnessed  the 
descent  of  the  Spirit  upon  the  Founder  of  our  religion.  And 
somewhere  in  the  wilderness  beyond  occurred  what  Milton  calls 
the  "  great  duel,  not  of  armsP 

This  whole  section  of  country,  though  nominally  a  part  of 
the  Turkish  Umpire,  is  now,  and  has  been  for  centuries,  in  the 
hands  of  Bedatveen.  Travelling  there  is  alivays  difficult,  if  not 
always  actually  dangerous.  Till  quite  recently  very  little  was 
known  either  about  the  country,  its  ruins,  or  its  inhabitants. 
The  work  of  exploration,  however,  is  now  fairly  begun.  And 
the  author  of  the  book  here  offered  to  the  public  has  done  con- 
spicuous and  excellent  service  in  the  field.  He  ivas  no  ordi- 
nary traveller.  As  Archceologist  of  the  American  Palestine 
Exploration  Society,  his  opportunities  were  exceptionally  good, 
and  these  opportunities  were  well  improved.  He  showed  ad- 
mirable tact,  and  had  rare  good  luck,  in  dealing  with  the 
Bedaween,  whose  habits  he  studied  carefully,  and  among  whom 
he  dwelt  as  securely  as  in  Andover.  He  has  the  credit  of 
several  important  identifications.    His  "  Topographical  Notes 


INTRODUCTION.  '  vii 

on  Eastern  Palestine,^'  in  wJiicJi  he  gires^  in  a  concise  and 
scholarly  manner,  the  results  of  the  explorations  already 
made,  ivithheld  from  puhlication  for  the  present  for  reasons 
which  need  not  he  detailed,  tvill  appear  in  due  time. 

The  present  volume  has  assumed  a  popular  form.  Personal 
incidents  enliven  the  narrative.  The  illustrations  are  fresh 
and  original,  many  of  them  from  the  author's  oivn  drawings. 
The  hooTi  contains  a  large  amount  of  matter  ivholly  new.  The 
author  was  careful  and  patient  in  Ms  investigations,  and  now 
tells  the  story  of  his  life  beyond  the  Jordan  in  a  manner 
equally  entertaining  and  instructive. 

ROSWELL  B.  HITCHCOCK. 

Union  Theological  Seminary,  New  York,  August  15,  1881. 


PREFACE. 

On  the  20th  of  October,  1874,  I  ivas  appointed  the 
archceologist  of  the  American  Palestine  Exploration  80- 
ciety,  and  sailed  from  New  York  on  the  IWi  of  June., 
1875,  arriving  at  Beirut,  our  head-quarters  in  Syria,  on 
Monday,  the  9th  day  of  August.  During  1875-77  I  made 
four  different  expeditions,  of  which  the  journal  of  hut  two 
is  gicen  at  length  i)t  the  following  pages.  On  Thursday, 
December  23,  1875,  /  ivas  placed  in  charge  of  the  exploration 
ivorh,  ivhich  I  carried  on  until  the  summer  of  1877,  ivhen  I 
returned  to  America.  I  have  since  been  retained  by  the 
Society  to  write  reports  and  to  assist  Mr.  Meyer  in  the  prep- 
aration of  our  maps.  During  the  two  years  that  I  ivas  in 
the  field,  I  labored  under  the  immediate  advice  and  direction 
of  the  Advisory  Gommittee  in  Beirfit.  This  committee  is 
composed  of  gentlemen  ivho  are  familiar  with  many  parts  of 
Syria  and  Palestine,  and  who,  in  every  way,  are  deserving 
of  the  highest  respect  and  honor,  and  my  relations  with  them 
were  always  exceedingly  pleasant. 

Special  mention  should  here  be  made  of  Professor  Bosivell 
D.  mtchcocJc,  D.  D.,  of  Union  Theological  Seminary,  New 
York,  tvho,  as  president  of  the  Exploration  Society,  has 
labored  indefatigably  for  its  interests,  and  also  of  Mr. 
Rudolph  Meyer,   the    Society^s   faithful   engineer,   by  ivhose 


X  PREFACE. 

shilful  hand  its  map  has  been  prepared.  I  desire  to  ae- 
hnowledfje  my  ohlifjation  to  J.  Henry  Thayer,  Professor  in 
the  Theological  Seminary,  Andover,  Mass.,  and  Timothy 
Otis  Paine,  Professor  in  the  New  Church  Theological 
Seminary,  Boston,  Mass.,  likewise  to  Charles  L.  Merriam 
and  George  W.  Stearns,  for  valuable  services  rendered  while 
carrying  this  tvorJc  through  the  press.  It  may  not  he  out 
of  place  for  me  to  add,  that  of  the  large  amotmt  of  archae- 
ological and  other  material  in  my  possession  connected, 
with  Palestine,  it  has  been  found  possible  to  introduce  only 
a  limited  portion  in  the  present  volume. 

SELAH   MEBMILL. 
Andover,  Mass.,  May  2,  1881. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  Preparations 1 

n.  Among  the  Cities  of  Bashan     ....  10 

m.  "        "        "        " 24 

rV.  "            "            "            " 43 

V.  Hauran  Architecture 60 

VI.  Um  el  Jemal,  the  Mother  of  the  Camel         .  78 

Vn.  Personal  Experiences             88 

Vin.  Sick  in  the  Desert 100 

IX.  On  the  Way  to  the  Field 112 

X.  Around  the  Sea  of  Galilee      .        .        .        .  125 

XI.  El  Hamma,  an  Ancient  Watering-Place    .        .  137 

Xn.  Gadara- 145 

Xm.  Aphek,  the  Grave  of  a  Syrian  Army  (I.  Kings 

XX.,  30) 159 

Xrv.  The  Jordan  Valley 172 

XV.  "               " 177 

XVI.  "               "                 ......  191 

XVn.  Lower  Jordan  Valley. — The  Shittim  Plain       .  206 

XVni.  "               "               "               "           "     .        .  222 

XIX.  Mount  Nebo „        .        .  240 

XX,  On  the  Upper  Zerka,  or  Jabbok       .        ,        .  253 

XXL  GiLEAD          ..,...,,.  273 

XXn.  The  Decapolis       , 291 


xii  CONTENTS. 

XXIII.  Return         .........  303 

XXrV.    On  the  March 313 

XXV.  Golan  and  Ashteroth  Karnaim    ....  320 

XXVI.    Pilgrim   Caravans 333 

XXVn.    An  Underground  City 348 

XX^TEE.  The  Watch-Tower  of  Gilead      .        .        .        .  359 

XXIX.  On  the  Lower  Zerka,  or  Jabbok          .        .        .  372 

XXX.  Exploration  of  the  Jabbok        .        .       .        .  381 

■    XXXI.     A  War-Cloud 404 

XXXp.  Condition  or  the  Country          .        .        .        .  411 

XXXm.     A  Surprise  Party 419 

XXXIV.  Mahanaim  and  Pell  a    .        .        .        .        ,        .  425 

XXXV.  Our  Lord  at  Capernaum  and  in  Perea       .        .448 

XXXVE.    Arab  Life  in  the  Desert 467 

XXXVn.        "               ''               "                488 

XXXVm.        ''               "               "             503 

XXXIX.    Conclusion 516 

LSTDEX 533 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIOIN^S. 


Where  not  otherwise  stated,  the  illustrations  are  from  photographs  taken  by  the 
American  Palestine  Exploration  Society,  or  fi-om  original  drawings. 

PAGE 

Amman  on  the  Upper  Jabbok.   Looking  up  the  Valley  to 

THE  South-west Frontispiece 

The  Lava  Bed  in  the  Lejah    .        .        From  Wetzstein        .  12 

Tell  Shaihan,  in  the  Lejah       .        .    From  Burton  and  Drake  15 

Temple  at  Musmieh           = 17 

Interior  of  Temple  at  Musmieh        .    From  De  Vogue           .  18 

Peripteral  Temple  at  Kunawat 24 

Plan  op  the  Church  at  Edhr'a          .     From  De  Vogii-e  .        .  29 

Cyclopean  Structure  in  the  Lejah,  near  Kirateh         .  31 

Temple  at  Suleim 32 

Ancient  Castle  at  Kunawat.    Roman  Eound-Tower  in  the 

Distance 36 

Temple  at  Kunawat.    Antique  Head  at  the  Eight     .        .  38 

Heads  op  Baal  and  Astarte        .         Fro?n  '^Unexplored  Syria"  40 

Colossal  Head  at  Kunawat 41 

Bullock's  Head  on  an  Altar  op  Basalt,  from  Kunawat    .  42 

Specimens  of  Ornamental  "Work  in  the  ^ 

Hauran  Architecture.    From  Si'aS  ^'■'^'"^^^'^i'"^'     •  ^=^ 

Specimens  of  Hauran  Architecture.  ^ 

From  Si'A           ....           ^  From  De  Vogiie .        .  44 

Temple  at  'Atil 47 


Siv  LIST  OF  ILLUSTBATI0N8. 

PAGE 

Ancient  Sculpture  found  at  'Art.  Possibly  a  Represen- 
tation OP  THE  Deity  Dusares,  or  Bacchus  .  .  .49 
Lions  and  Palm-Tree.  From  the  Castle  at  Salchad  .  51 
Castle  at  Salchad.  In  the  Mouth  of  an  Extinct  Crater  52 
Cathedral  at  Bozrah  ....  From  De  Vogiie  .  .  54 
Mosque  AND  Eesertoir  at  BozRAH  .  .  To  face  page  55 
Anteroom  Connected  with  the  Theatre  at  Bozrah  .  56 
Remains  of  two  Large  Public  Buildings,  perhaps  Tem- 
ples, AT  Bozrah 57 

Windows  prom  the  Hauran    .        .          From  De  Vogiie      .  64 

Windows  and  Doors  from  the  Hauran  From  De  Vogiie  .        .  65 

Stone  House  in  the  Hauran        .        .    From  De  Vogiie       .  67 

Windows  prom  the  Hauran      .        .        From  De  Vogiie .        .  69 

Church  and  Houses  at  Um  el  Jemal 82 

Es  Salt To  face  page  90 

Hyrcanus's  Palace  at  'Arak  el  EmIr 107 

Assyrian  Sculpture  in  the  Rock.    Near  Tyre      .        .        .118 

Section  of  Rock,  showing  Assyrian  Sculpture.    Near  Tyre  119 

Syrian  Horseshoe  and  Nails 135 

Seats  in  the  Bath  at  El  Ha  mm  a 150 

Twenty-three    Varieties    op    Masons'    Marks,    from    the 
Stones   in   the  Roman  Bath   at   El   Hamma,   or  Hot 

Springs  op  Gadara 151 

Roman  Road  at  Gadara 154 

Door  of  a  Tomb  at  Gadara 155 

Candlestick  (?)  on  a  Lintel  at  FIk 162 

Castle  op  Kaukab  el  Hauwa,  as  seen  Across  the  Jordan 

Valley  prom  the  Hills  South  of  Gadara       .        .        .174 

Natural  Bridge  and  Hot  Spring  North  of  Pella    .        .  183 
Mill-Stone  in  a  Quarry  in  Jebel  'AjliTn        .        .        .        .190 

Ancient  Mill-Stone,  Shittim  Plain 231 

Tombstone  of  a  Bedawin  Sheikh.    From  near  Hasban       .  240 

'Ay^tn  MtrsA,  or  Fountains'of  Moses      From  Due  de  Luynes  242 

Ruins  on  Jebel  MOsa         .        .        .        From  Due  de  Luynes  246 

Plan  op  the  M'Shita  Ruin  .        .        .    From  Dr.  Tristram  256 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS.  xv 

PAGE 
GrATE   AT   M'SHITA  .  o  ......  .  257 

M'Shita.    Interior  View      .       .       ,       .       .       ,       ,       .261 
Tower  at  M'Shita     .........        263 

Plan  of  a  Temple  at  Amman      .       .        ,        .       .        .        .264 

Theatre  at  Gerash  .        .        .        .        .        ,        .        .        272 

Triumphal  Arch  at  Gerash         .        .     From  Due  de  Lmjnes  .     281 

Temple  op  the  Sun  at  Gerash 283 

Niche  in  the  Remains  op  an  Elegant  Edifice  on  the  Long 

Street  at  Gerash  285 

Temple  at  Gerash.    Near  the  South  Gate         .        ,        .        288 

Jab  prom  Irbid '.        .        .    295 

Plan  op  Mahneh 355 

Plan  op  Tell  Deir  'Alla  and  Tulul  edh  Dhahab,  or  Suc- 

COTH  AND  PeNUEL 390 

Large  Theatre  at  Amman,  and  Small  Theatre  at  the 

Left 399 

Ruin  at  Amman,  Showing   Holes   in   the  Lstterior  of  the 

Walls 401 

Ruined  Bridge  on  the  Jordan,  near  ^ 

THE  Mouth  of  the  Jabbok         .      I         '         To  face  page    423 

Bedawin  Skull,   prom  Khurbet  Sar,  the  Old  Testament- 

Jazer 486 

Inscribed  Stones  prom  Ancient  Tombs  at  Sidon         .      520,  521 

Fragment  op  Ancient  Lead  Sarcophagus        ....    522 

A  PncENiciAN  Idol,  prom  Beir^tt.    Front  View  .        .        523 

"  ''         "  "  Side  View  .        .        .     523 

Stone  Projectile.     From  Banias 524 

Figures  on  an  Ancient  Altar  pound  at  Jebail    .        .        .    525 


EAST    OF    THE    JORDAN. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Preparations. 

AiTival  in  Beirut.  City  stricken  with  cholera.  Difficulty  in  finding, 
quarters.  Places  revisited.  Rapid  growth.  Importance  given  to 
schools  and  education.  Wide  influence  of  the  Mission  press.  Com- 
mercial prospects.  American  petroleum  trade.  Imports  and  exports. 
Sponge  fisheries.  Historical  notices  of  Beirut.  The  Christian  strong- 
hold in  Sjrria.  Advisory  Committee  of  the  American  Palestine 
Exploration  Society.  Camp  pitched  at  'Abeih.  Kindness  of  the 
American  residents.     Party  made  up.     Route  marked  out. 

BeirCtt,  Syria,  Monday,  August  23,  1875. 

OUR  party,  consisting  of  four  Americans,  has  arrived 
on  the  Syi'ian  coast  at  an  unfortunate  time,  so  far 
as  undertaking  any  important  work  is  concerned.  The 
country  is  visited  now  by  the  dread  disease  of  cholera, 
which  has  more  terrors  for  the  Oriental  mind  than  the 
plague,  famine  or  war.  Forty  thousand  people  have  fled 
from  this  city  alone,  and  I  have  walked  about  these 
streets  for  two  miles  without  seeing  man,  woman  or 
child,  an  open  dooi',  or  any  sign  of  life  except  a  few 
starving  dogs — and  these  ought  rather  to  be  classed  among 
the  signs  of  misery  and  death.  StHl,  the  epidemic  does 
not  seem  to  be  a  very  fatal  one;  for,  if  I  am  correctly 
informed  by  physicians  here,  the  highest  number  of 
1 


2  EAST   OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

deaths  a  day  is  ouly  tliirteen.  This,  it  must  be  remem- 
bered, however,  is  among  the  few  people  that  have  been 
obliged  to  stay  at  home,  so  that  no  one  can  teU  what  the 
condition  of  things  might  have  been  had  all  the  inhabi- 
tants remained. 

The  ports  about  the  Mediterranean  are  guarded  now 
by  a  strict  quarantine,  and  we  were  detained  at  Alex- 
andi'ia  for  twelve  days  before  we  could  get  a  steamer  to 
Beii'ut. 

We  left  Liverpool  on  Monday,  July  12,  1875,  in  the 
steamer  Magdala,  Captain  Greig,  staying  a  part  of  a  day 
at  Gibraltar  and  an  entire  day  and  two  nights  at  Malta, 
and  arrived  at  Alexandria  on  Monday,  July  2G.  We 
sailed  thence  on  Saturday,  August  7,  and  reached  Beirut 
on  Monday,  August  9. 

We  found  that  the  hotels  were  closed,  and  likewise 
the  private  houses  and  most  of  the  stores  and  shops. 
Americans  and  other  foreign  residents  were  in  the  moun- 
tains, the  irrepressible  dragoman  had  for  once  ceased  to 
annoy  the  new-comer,  and  it  appeared  for  a  time  as 
though  we  should  not  be  able  to  get  a  tent  pitched  or 
find  a  roof  beneath  which  we  could  obtain  shelter.  Fort- 
unately for  us,  our  Consul,  Hon.  J.  T.  Edgar,  was  at 
his  post,  and  through  his  influence  one  of  the  hotels 
was  opened,  where  we  spent  the  remainder  of  that  day 
and  the  following  night.  Meantime  Rev.  George  E.  Post, 
M.  D.,  one  of  the  Advisory  Committee  of  the  Palestine 
Exploration  Society,  arrived  from  the  mountains,  and 
gave  us  our  present  quarters  in  the  Syrian  Protestant 
College.  This  commodious  building  is  on  a  bluff  one  mile 
or  more  west  of  the  city,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of 
the  Mediterranean  on  one  side  and  of  the  town  and  the 
Lebanon  Mountains  on  the  other.  We  enjoy  here  what- 
ever fresh  breezes  the  sea  affords,  and  are  probably  as 


PBEPABATIONS.  3 

exempt  from  the  cholera  as  we  shoiikl  be  in  one  of  the 
mountain  \Tllages. 

Early  in  the  year  1869,  after  an  extended  tour  in 
Egypt  and  the  Holy  Land,  I  spent  six  or  eight  days  in 
Beirut,  and  paid  considerable  attention  to  its  history  and 
places  of  interest.  Some  of  these  points  I  have  revisited 
during  the  past  two  weeks,  and,  although  the  city  has 
now  so  deserted  an  appearance,  I  see  on  every  hand 
the  signs  of  growth  and  of  an  increased  degree  of  pros- 
perity. The  suburbs  appear  to  be  better  cultivated  than 
formerly,  and  in  some  sections  of  the  town  many  fine 
houses  have  been  built.  The  missions  under  the  care  of 
the  different  Protestant  nationalities  have  a  firmer  hold 
on  the  attention  of  the  people,  and  they  have  been  aggres- 
sive on  the  side  of  popular  education  to  a  degree  that 
would  have  been  surprising  even  under  far  more  favor- 
able circumstances.  The  substantial  edifice  in  which  we 
have  found  a  temporary  home  is  but  one  of  the  evidences 
that  the  native  popidation  of  Syria  are  heartily  desirous 
of  improvement,  while  the  adjoining  medical  college  is 
bringing  about  a  great  transformation  in  the  minds  of 
the  people  with  regard  to  a  noble  science  which  has 
hitherto  ranked,  among  them,  only  with  the  magic  arts. 

One  of  the  most  hopeful  features  connected  with  the 
work  of  education  in  Syria  is  the  progress  that  has  been 
made  among  the  native  women.  It  is  a  noticeable  but 
interesting  fact  that  many  Moslem  parents  have  so  far 
overcome  their  prejudices  as  to  send  their  girls  to  Christian 
schools.  In  the  present  condition  of  affau^s,  it  is  inevitable 
that  the  educational  work  among  women  shoidd  be  for  the 
most  part  elementary  in  character.  But,  besides  excellent 
schools  of  that  grade,  there  are  others,  like  the  American 
Young  Ladies'  Seminary  (to  mention  but  one),  where 
higher  advantages  are  afforded,  and  the  increasing  num- 


4  EAST  OF  THE  J  OB  DAN. 

ber  of  trained  young  women  who  graduate  every  year 
from  these  advanced  schools  is  an  evidence  that  very  many 
have  got  beyond  the  rudiments  of  learning  and  are  anxious 
to  become  teachers,  or  to  fit  themselves  for  those  positions 
of  usefulness  which  only  educated  and  intelligent  women 
can  fill  with  success. 

Further,  the  influence  of  the  Mission  press  here  is 
already  of  incalculable  extent,  and  it  is  increasing  year 
by  year.  The  buildings  themselves  are  small;  but  in  all 
the  East  civilization  has  not  a  stronger  ally  than  this 
humble  establishment  on  the  sea-shore  at  the  foot  of 
Lebanon.  Eight  millions  or  ten  millions  of  pages,  printed 
in  the  Arabic  language,  are  sent  forth  from  this  press  every 
year,  supplying  the  Arabic-speaking  people  of  "Western 
Asia  and  Egypt  with  a  pure  and  Christian  literature,  and 
providing  for  them,  by  means  of  translations  from  Euro- 
pean languages,  the  best  educational  and  scientific  works 
which  their  progress  in  knowledge  demands.  Ten  cen- 
turies before  Christ  this  place  was  the  seat  of  a  depraved 
idolatrous  worship.  Five  centuries  after  Christ  it  had 
the  finest  law  school  in  the  Roman  empire;  and  nineteen 
centuries  after  Christ  it  has  already  become  the  strong 
centre  of  Christianity  and  education — the  forces  which,  I 
believe,  are  destined  to  accomplish  the  moral  and  political 
and,  consequently,  the  physical  redemption  of  this  long- 
oppressed  but  glorious  land. 

This  city  cannot  be  compared  with  Alexandria  as 
respects  circumstances  favorable  for  material  growth 
At  the  same  time  Beirut  enjoys  unusual  advantages  in 
its  climate,  beautiful  situation  and  scenery,  in  the  fer- 
tility of  its  soil,  and  its  almndant  supply  of  water. 
Unlike  any  city  of  Egypt,  this  has  a  range  of  mountains 
so  near  as  to  furnish  a  retreat  for  the  inhabitants  during 
the  long  Syrian  siimmer.     When  people  here  are  exhausted 


PBEPABATIONS.  5 

wdth  the  tropical  lieat  they  can,  in  three  or  four  hours 
on  horseback,  reach  the  higher  parts  of  Lebanon,  where 
the  water  is  cool  and  the  air  fresh  and  bracing.  Jebel 
Sunnin,  which  is  in  sight  from  this  college,  and  is  one 
of  the  highest  peaks  of  the  range,  preserves,  in  its  deep 
ravines  and  gorges,  snow  and  ice  duiing  the  entire  year, 
and  from  this  source  the  inhabitants  of  Beirut  are  supplied 
with  these  luxuries  at  a  very  reasonable  cost. 

Although  not  equal  to  Alexandria,  Beirut  is  the  most 
important  commercial  port  on  the  Syrian  coast,  and 
among  the  facts  of  special  interest  which  I  have  learned 
is,  that  most  of  the  vessels  which  bear  the  United  States 
flag,  arri\ang  here,  come  with  cargoes  of  petroleum. 
Foreigners  shorten  this  word  into  "petrole,"  while  the 
natives  call  the  article  "gas."  It  began  to  be  imported 
directly  about  1867,  and  during  that  year  50,000  gallons 
arrived  at  Beirut.  But  the  trade  has  so  increased  that 
last  year  nearly  1,000,000  gallons  arrived  in  American 
ships  alone.  This  oil  is  not  all  consumed  in  Beirut,  but 
is  distributed  over  the  whole  of  Syria.  SmaU  native  craft 
take  it  to  other  ports  along  the  coast,  and  it  is  carried 
inland  to  Damascus  and  the  other  towns  throughout  the 
central  and  northern  portions  of  the  country,  and  finds  its 
way  even  to  the  cities  and  villages  along  the  Euphrates. 

Among  the  other  articles  of  import  here  I  may  specify, 
without  going  too  deeply  into  details,  hardware,  crockery 
and  glass  ware,  furniture,  sewing-machines,  boots,  shoes, 
and  leather,  wines  and  spirits,  drugs  and  medicines,  rice, 
coffee,  sugar  and  flour,  stationery,  fancy  goods,  woollen 
and  silk  goods,  cotton  goods  and  prints,  matches,  cigars, 
marble,  and  lumber,  including  boards,  planks,  and  heavy 
beams.  The  want  of  native  timber  is  a  great  drawback 
to  the  prosperity  of  this'  countrj^,  and  that  which  is  im- 
ported is,  of  coiu'se,  very  expensive.     The  fancy   goods 


D  EAST  OF   THE  JORDAN. 

come  chiefly  from  Austria  and  Germany  ;  hardware, 
boots,  and  shoes,  from  England  and  France.  Within  a 
few  years  past,  Russia  has  sent  considerable  floiir  to  Syria. 
In  cotton  goods  and  prints,  the  last  of  which  must  be  of 
the  most  gaudy  and  flaming  colors  to  please  the  Oriental 
taste,  Manchester  has  taken  the  lead  of  all  other  cities  in 
supplying  this  market;  but  the  business  being  known  to 
be  profitable  was  soon  overdone,  and  there  is  now  a 
depression.  Great  quantities  of  rice  are  brought  to  this 
country,  for  the  natives  are  very  fond  of  it.  Sugar  comes 
principally  from  Egypt  and  France.  But  few  cigars  are 
imported,  for  the  natives  do  not  use  them,  partly  because 
they  are  too  expensive,  and  partly  because  they  are  too 
strong,  and  contain  more  tobacco  than  a  Syrian  or  an  Arab 
wishes  to  smoke  at  once.  Furthermore,  foreigners  soon 
give  up  the  practice  of  smoking  cigars,  and  adopt  instead 
the  cigarette,  which,  together  with  the  nargUeh  for  leisure 
hours,  takes  the  place  of  the  pipes  and  cigars  of  the  West- 
ern world. 

Considerable  produce  of  various  kinds  is  also  shipped 
yearly  from  this  port,  and  among  the  articles  are  dried 
apricots,  raisins  and  nuts,  wine  and  ohve  oil,  wheat, 
barley,  sesame  and  beans,  madder  root  and  other  sub- 
stances that  are  used  for  dyeing  materials,  rags,  skins, 
wool,  bitumen,  sponges,  raw  cotton,  silk,  and  tobacco. 
Formerly  a  great  many  horses,  cattle,  and  sheep  were 
shipped  from  Syria  to  Egypt  and  elsewhere,  and  from 
this  source  the  country  derived  a  very  important  income. 
But  for  some  reason  strict  orders  have  been  issued  from 
Constantinople  prohibiting  the  export  of  cattle  and  horses, 
and  this  business  has  nearly  ceased.  The  bitmnen  comes 
from  the  mines  at  Hasbeiya,  near  the  most  northern 
source  of  the  Jordan.  It  is  found  in  a  very  pure  state, 
is  worth  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  dollars  a  ton,  and 


PEEPABATIOXS.  7 

is  used  principally  by  the  Continental  varnish  makers.  A 
large  part  of  the  silk  is  shipped  to  France;  the  value  of 
that  sent  in  1872  amounting-  to  £500,000.  Since  the  Suez 
Canal  was  opened,  the  silk  industry  of  Syi'ia  has  been 
ahnost  ruined.  The  raw  article  can  be  produced  much 
cheaper  in  the  far  East,  where  also  the  crop  is  more 
certain,  and  the  present  means  of  rapid  transit  enable 
the  growers  and  shippers  there  to  supply  quickly  the 
Eui'opean  market,  so  that  the  producers  here  find  it 
impossible  to  hold  their  own  with  such  odds  against  them, 
and  many  have  in  consequence  been  driven  to  poverty  and 
real  distress. 

One  of  the  important  industries  of  Syria  is  the  sponge 
fisheries,  of  which  the  average  value  of  the  yearly  pro- 
duction is  from  $100,000  to  $125,000.  In  1872,  nearly 
$60,000  worth  were  shipped  from  Beirut  alone.  At  present 
not  a  great  deal  of  cotton  is  produced,  and  the  Govern- 
ment has  made  tobacco  a  contraband  article,  so  that  the 
production  of  this  staple  has  well-nigh  ceased.  In  ancient 
Hebrew  times,  cotton  was  raised  and  manufactured  in 
Syria,  and  in  the  Middle  Ages  the  cotton  fabrics  of  this 
country  were  widely  celebrated;  but  its  production  has 
fallen  almost  to  nothing  in  recent  years,  chiefly  owing  to 
the  fact  that  the  Government  neither  aids  nor  encourages 
any  industry  that  can  possibly  be  made  a  source  of  wealth 
to  the  impoverished  and  wi'etched  inhabitants. 

Among  the  historical  notices  of  this  city,  connected 
chiefly  with  its  commercial  character,  we  find  Pliny  (died 
A.  D.  79)  praising  the  sweetness  of  the  Beirut  grapes,  and 
declaring  that  its  native  wine  was,  with  that  of  Tripoli, 
Tyre,  and  Byblos,  the  best  in  Syria.  Ammianus  MarceUinus 
(fourth  century)  describes  Beirut,  Tyi-e,  and  Sidon  as  the 
most  important  cities  of  Phoenicia.  Procopius  (died  A.  D. 
565)  speaks  of  its  extensive  silk  trade  and  manufactories 


8  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

whence  the  whole  Roman  empire  was  supplied  with  th(3 
most  elegant  and  costly  fabrics  of  this  kind.  In  the  time 
of  Justinian  its  only  rival  in  this  trade  was  the  city  of 
Tyre.  Agathios  (sixth  century)  speaks  of  Beirut,  at  the 
period  previous  to  the  great  earthquake  in  A.  D.  529,  as 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  of  the  Phoenician  coast, 
adorned  with  elegant  palaces  and  presenting  the  appeai'- 
ance  of  a  Roman  city  of  wealth  and  splendor.  Amid  the 
luxury  and  the  powerful  heathen  influence  which  prevailed 
here  at  that  time,  Christianity  also  had  a  foothold,  and 
its  teachers  and  churches  existed  side  by  side  with  Roman 
schools  and  Pagan  temples.  It  was  here  that  Constantine, 
in  325,  issued  his  law  prohibiting  gladiatorial  combats. 

We  have  had  a  number  of  interview^  with  the  Advisoiy 
Committee,  composed,  besides  Dr.  Post  ah*eady  mentioned, 
of  Rev.  Wm.  M.  Thomson,  D.  D.,  Rev.  Henry  H.  Jessup, 
D.  D.,  and  C.  V.  A.  Van  Dyck,  M.  D.,  D.  D.,  and,  mth  theii- 
cooperation,  oui-  preparations  are  nearly  complete.  It  is 
proposed  by  the  committee  that  we  go  on  Wednesday, 
August  25,  to  'Abeih,  a  village  in  the  mountains,  five 
hours  south  of  Beirut,  pitch  our  camp  there,  and  see  if 
everything  is  in  order. 

'Abeih,  Syria,  Wednesday,  September  1,  1875. 

As  every  member  of  the  party  has  been  more  or  less 
indisposed,  our  departure  for  our  field  of  labor  has  been 
delayed  beyond  our  expectations.  But  all  our  forces  are 
now  on  hand  and  in  readiness,  and  we  propose  to  start  in 
the  morning. 

Since  coming  here  I  have  spent  parts  of  two  days  in 
planning  with  Dr.  Thomson  about  our  route.  We  have 
decided  to  camp  to-morrow  night  at  Kefr  Nebrakh ;  go 
thence  to  Jubb  Jenin,  and  on   our  way  take  photographs 


PBEPABATIONS.  9 

of  the  recently  discovered  grove  of  cedars  above  Bamk ; 
on  Saturday  to  go  past  and  photogTapli  the  temple  at 
Thelthatha,  and  spend  Sunday  at  Rasheiya;  to  visit 
Rukhleh  and  some  of  the  temples  about  the  base  of 
Mount  Hermon;  also  the  summit  of  Hermon,  and  go 
thence  by  way  of  Mejdel  esh  Shems  to  Banias.  Thence 
visit  and  photograph  the  castle,  the  grove  of  Hazuri, 
the  lake  Phiala,  and  go  on  by  way  of  S'as'a  to  the  north 
end  of  the  Lejah.  The  country  east  of  the  Jordan  which 
it  is  proposed  to  survey  embraces  6000  square  miles, 
being  about  the  size  of  that  contemplated  in  the  English 
survey  of  Western  Palestine.  The  region  assigned  to  us 
is  a  vast  table-land,  averaging  about  2500  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  Mediterranean,  on  which  there  is  but  a 
single  group  of  hills,  called  the  Hauran  Mountains.  It 
is  said  to  be  full  of  ruins  which  are  of  great  historical 
interest. 

Besides  the  four  members  of  the  exploring  party,  Prof. 
E,  R.  Lewis,  M.  D.,  of  the  SjT-ian  Protestant  College  in 
Beirut,  and  Mr.  Henry  L.  Van  Dyck,  are  to  accompany 
us;  we  have  also  ]Mr.  T.  R.  Dumas,  of  Beirut,  as  our 
photographer.  We  have  twenty-three  baggage  animals 
and  nine  horses,  eight  muleteers,  six  servants, — including 
two  cooks  and  a  table  boy, — and  two  native  assistants 
and  interpreters  from  the  college  just  mentioned. 

The  Americans  whom  we  have  met  since  coming  here 
have  received  us  most  cordially  and  rendered  us  all  the 
assistance  in  their  power.  To  some  of  them  I  am  person- 
ally indebted  for  many  kind  attentions.  They  all  express 
themselves  as  deeply  interested  in  the  work  which  the 
American  Society  has  undertaken,  but  seem  to  regret 
that  we  should  be  sent  out  to  our  field  while  the  heat 
is  so  oppressive. 


CHAPTER    II. 

Among  the  Cities  op  Bashan. 

Route  followed.  S'as'a.  Beautiful  camijing-gi'ouutl.  Extinct  crater. 
The  Lejah,  the  ancient  "Argob."  Vast  bed  of  lava.  Freaks  of 
the  cooling  lava.  Great  caves,  the  lurking-places  of  robbers. 
Testimony  of  Strabo  and  Josephus.  The  Haiiran  Momitains,  once 
a  region  full  of  active  volcanoes.  Strange  appearance  of  the  Lejah. 
Musniieh,  the  Phaena  of  the  Greeks.  Fine  temple.  Inscriptions. 
Palace  of  the  Governor.  Public  hotel.  Camp  of  the  Sixteenth 
Legion.  Our  camping-place.  Burak.  An  episcopal  city.  Old 
foundations.     Aqueduct  and  water  supply. 

WE  followed  pretty  nearly  tlie  plan  of  our  route, 
which,  as  I  have  mentioned,  was  arranged  with 
Dr.  Thomson,  and  reached  the  border  of  the  Trachonitis 
on  Wednesday,  September  15,  1875.  S'as'a  appears  to 
oecnpy  the  mouth  of  an  extinct  crater,  and  the  khan 
belonging  to  the  town  is  of  great  size.  Our  camp  was 
on  the  bank  of  the  Jennani,  or  rather  between  two 
branches  of  that  stream,  where  was  a  patch  of  inviting 
gi'eensward,  an  unusual  sight  in  this  parched  land.  A 
flock  of  fine-looking  geese  shared  with  us  one  end  of 
this  smaU  island,  but  the}^  did  not  disturb  our  slumbers. 

In  order  to  confine  my  material  within  the  compass  of 
a  single  volume,  I  must  omit  for  the  most  part  my  journal 


AMONG   THE   CITIES   OF  B A  SHAN.  11 

of  our  work  and  travels  for  two  mouths  from  the  date 
last  mentioned,  and  select  only  such  matters  as  appear  to 
me  to  be  of  chief  importance,  and  which  I  trust  will 
prove  of  general  interest. 

There  are  many  points  about  the  Lejah  from  which  one 
can  overlook  its  entire  siu"face.  The  views  from  the  roof 
of  the  temple  at  Musmieh,  and  from  the  buildings 
at  Khubab  some  distance  to  the  south,  are  particularly 
fine.  It  would  be  difficult  to  mention  a  spot  iu  civilized 
lands  which  could  be  compared  to  this  ancient  region  in 
regard  to  its  wild  and  savage  aspect.  When  one  reads 
of  ''  Argob,"  or  the  "  region  of  Argob,"  in  Deut.  iii., 
and  elsewhere,  the  name  and  phrase  have  little  signifi- 
cance ;  but  when  one  is  actually  on  the  ground,  and,  from 
the  walls  of  the  temple  at  Musmieh,  looks  south-east  over 
the  very  district  referred  to,  or,  from  some  point  in  Jebel 
Haurari,  looks  north  over  this  great  sea  of  lava,  one 
realizes  that  the  Hebrew  words  are  expressive  to  a  degree 
that  one  had  never  before  imagined. 

The  lava  bed  proper  embraces  about  three  hundred  and 
fifty  square  miles,  and  its  average  height  above  the  sur- 
rounding plain  is  perhaps  twenty  feet.  The  bed  in  its  out- 
line or  edge  is  far  from  being  regular,  but  sends  out  at  a 
multitude  of  points  black  promontories  of  rock  into  the 
surrounding  plain.  Through  this  rugged  shore  there  are  a 
few  openings  into  the  interior,  but  for  the  most  part  it  is 
impassable,  and  roads  had  to  be  excavated  to  the  towns 
situated  within  it.  Argob,  or  the  Lejah  itself,  is  a  great 
plain,  and  one  of  the  strangest  on  earth.  The  surface  is 
black,  and  has  the  appearance  of  the  sea  when  it  is  in 
motion  beneath  a  dark,  cloudy  sky,  and  when  the  waves 
are  of  good  size  but  without  any  white  crests  of  foam. 
But  this  sea  of  lava  is  motionless,  and  its  great  waves  are 


12 


EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 


petrified.  In  the  process  of  cooling,  the  lava  cracked,  and 
in  some  (^ases  the  layers  of  great  basalt  blocks  look  as  if 
they  had  been  prepared  and  placed  where  they  are  by 


The   Lava   Bed   in  the   Lejah.      [From   Wetzstein.] 

artificial  means.  In  other  cases,  the  hillocks  have  split 
lengthwise,  or  sometimes  into  several  portions,  and  thus 
seams  have  been  opened,  forming  great  fissures  and  chasms 
which  cannot  be  crossed. 

In  some  sections  the  lava  bed  has  not  been  broken  into 
such  small  hillocks,  but  has  more  the  appearance  of  what 
we  call  a  rolling  prairie.  There  are  between  the  hillocks, 
and  also  in  the  rolling  parts,  many  intervals  of  soil  which 
is  of  surprising  fertility. 


AMONG   THE   CITIES   OF  BASH  AN.  13 

BurcMiardt  says:  "In  the  interior  parts  of  tlie  Lejali 
the  rocks  are  in  many  places  cleft  asunder,  so  that  the 
whole  hiU  appears  shivered  and  in  the  act  of  falling  down. 
The  layers  are  generally  horizontal,  from  six  to  eight  feet 
or  more  in  tliickness,  sometimes  covering  the  hills,  and 
inclining  to  their  curve,  as  appears  from  the  fissures  which 
often  traverse  the  rock  from  top  to  bottom"  (p.  112). 

There  are  places  where  the  lava  was  congealed  while  the 
cmTcnt  was  still  strong,  for  the  eddies  are  distinctly  marked, 
like  a  path  that  one  might  suppose  to  have  been  covered 
with  coiled  ropes.  Besides  the  seams  and  fissures,  there  are 
also  numerous  caves,  which  have  been  occupied  as  dwell- 
ings. Bands  of  robbers  lurk  in  them  at  the  present  day. 
Outlaws  from  the  settled  portions  of  the  country  flee 
hither,  and  are  comparatively  safe.  There  is  good  evidence 
for  believing  that  these  eaves  were  occupied  in  the  remotest 
antiquity,  and  that  they  are  the  veritable  abodes  of  Trog- 
lodytes. Speaking  of  the  Trachonitis,  Strabo  says  : 
"  Towards  the  parts  occupied  by  Arabians  and  Itureans  are 
mountains  of  difficult  access,  in  which  are  caves  extending 
to  a  great  depth.  One  of  these  was  capable  of  containing 
four  thousand  robbers"  (book  xvi.,  2,  20).  William  of 
T}Te  also  reports  that  there  was  a  cave  sixteen  miles  fi-oni 
Tiberias  wliich  was  three  stories  high.  It  had  a  lower, 
a  middle,  and  an  upper  dining-room.  It  was  fortified, 
and  held  a  garrison  of  sohliers  (chapter  xxii.)-  The  old 
Jewish  writers  speak  of  a  cave  of  Zedekiah,  wliich  was 
many  miles  in  extent,  though  we  are  not  certain  that  this 
was  east  of  the  Jordan  (Lightfoot,  x.,  pp.  179,  288).  But 
the  underground  apartments  at  'Arak  el  Emir  are  well 
known  and  remarkable,  and  the  extensive  caves  at  Dra'a 
will  be  spoken  of  elsewhere. 

Josephus's  account  of  these  caves,  as  being  the  dens  of 
robbers,  is  also  well  worth  quoting.     He  says:  "These  rob- 


14  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

bers  had  no  cities  of  their  own,  but  only  some  receptacles 
and  dens  in  the  earth,  and  there  they  and  their  cattle  lived  in 
common  together.  However,  they  had  made  contrivances  to 
get  pools  of  water,  and  laid  np  corn  in  granaries  for  them- 
selves, and  were  able  to  make  great  resistance  by  issuing 
out  on  the  sudden  against  any  that  attacked  them;  for 
the  entrances  of  their  caves  were  narrow,  in  which  but 
one  could  come  in  at  a  time,  and  the  places  within  incred- 
ibly large,  and  made  very  wide ;  but  the  ground  over  their 
habitations  was  not  very  high,  but  rather  on  a  plain,  while 
the  rocks  are  altogether  hard  and  difficult  to  be  entered 
upon,  unless  any  one  gets  into  the  plain  road  by  the 
guidance  of  another,  for  these  roads  are  not  straight,  but 
have  several  revolutions"  (''Antiquities,"  xv.,  10,  1).  Zeno- 
dorus,  who  had  been  appointed  governor  of  this  region, 
was  in  league  with  these  outlaws,  and  to  Herod  the  Great 
was  assigned  the  task  of  subduing  them. 

What  are  called  the  Druze  or  Hauran  Mountains  contain 
numerous  extinct  craters.  The  exact  number  has  never 
been  estimated;  but  the  lava  floods  extended  north-east 
as  well  as  north-west,  so  that  the  lava  region  must  embrace 
altogether  several  thousand  square  miles.  South  of  Mount 
Hermon  there  is  likewise  a  group  of  extinct  craters,  begin- 
ning with  Birket  er  Ram,  or  Lake  Phiala,  and  Tell  el 
Akhmar,  and  continuing  some  distance  below  into  Gau- 
lanitis.  Wetzstein  has  given  a  striking  sketch  of  one  of 
the  extinct  craters  in  the  Lejah;  but  I  have  selected  from 
another  source  an  illustration  which  I  think  will  convey 
a  still  more  vivid  impression  of  these  strange  monuments 
of  the  condition  of  the  physical  earth  in  this  region  at 
some  remote  period. 

The  Lejah  is  not  a  waterless  region;  but  on  the  contrary 
there  are,  at  many  points,  copious  liAdng  fountains  in 
which  the  water  is  not  only  abundant,  but  cool  and  sweet. 


A3I0NG   THE   CITIES   OF  B  A  SHAN. 


15 


As  the  eye  sweeps  over  this  sea  of  black  rock,  not  the 
least  interesting  feature  is  the  number  cf  ruins  that  can  be 
counted.  Among  these,  a  dozen  or  more  round  towers  can 
be  seen  from  Khubab  alone.  Some  of  them,  no  doubt, 
guarded  the  Roman  road  running  north  and  soutli  through 
the  Lejah,  while  others  were  needed  in  the  vicinity  of 
cultivated  fields  and  fountains.  One  of  these,  situated 
not  far  from  Khubab,  Rev.  W.  Wright  visited  and  meas- 


Tell  Shaihan,   In  the   Lejah.     [From   Burton  and   Drake.] 


ured :  "  The  circumference,  one  yard  from  the  base,  is 
sixty- eight  feet.  It  has  thirty-seven  layers  of  stone  in 
it;  the  one  with  the  other  would  be  about  a  foot  high 
each.  The  walls  are  four  feet  thick;  the  height  of  the 
door  is  five  feet  five  inches,  and  its  width  three  feet  three 
inches.  A  central  column  of  cylindrical  stones  supports 
a.  stone  loft  of  the  height  of  fourteen  feet,  and  a  spiral 


16  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

staircase,  the  stones  of  which  project  from  the  wall,  and 
are  much  worn  by  use,  ascends  to  the  loft."  His  conclu- 
sion— the  only  natural  one — is  that  they  were  used  as 
watch-towers  (p.  522).  We  shall  present  under  Kunawat 
an  illustration  of  one  of  these  Roman  towers. 

As  the  number  of  craters  in  this  region  has  never  been 
ascertained,  neither  has  the  nmnber  of  ruined  cities  been 
counted,  but  the  Ai'abs  make  it  as  high  as  one  thousand. 
This  refers  to  the  Hauran,  which,  with  them,  includes  the 
Lejah. 

I  shall  give  a  brief  account,  with  illustrations,  of  a  few 
of  the  more  important  of  these  Hauran  cities,  omitting, 
from  necessity  as  I  have  said,  any  detailed  account  of  my 
labors  and  experiences  in  this  strange  but  interesting- 
country  of  Bashan. 

The  ruins  of  Musmieh,  which  are  about  three  miles  in 
circumference,  are  situated  within  the  Lejah,  so  that  it 
was  necessary  to  cut  a  road  through  the  lava  bed  in 
order  to  reach  the  city,  which,  no  doubt,  enjoyed  immu- 
nity from  attack,  since  the  rock-fields  about  it  are  almost 
impassable.  This  road  is  paved,  and  likewise  the  large 
area  in  front  of  the  temple,  which  has  justly  been  re- 
garded as  one  of  the  finest  monuments  in  Bashan, 

This  area  was  originally  siuTOunded  by  columns.  The 
temple  is  approached  by  a  flight  of  six  steps,  running 
r.cross  its  entire  front,  and  on  the  upj^er  platform,  which 
is  that  of  the  portico,  stood  six  Doric  columns,  three 
of  which  are  stiU  in  position.  On  the  pedestals  of  each  of 
these  columns,  and  also  on  the  architrave  above  them, 
there  were  inscriptions.  The  width  of  the  temple  was 
fifty  feet,  the  depth  seventy-four  feet,  while  the  height 
was  about  forty  feet.  The  main  entrance  was  large,  and 
on  each  side  of  it  was  a  smaller  one.     These  have  been 


AMONG   THE   CITIES   OF  B A  SEAN. 


17 


■walled  lip,  doubtless  that  the  ruin  might  afford  a  better 
protection  from    storms  after  it  came  to  be  occupied  as 


Temple  at   Musmieh. 

a  dwelling.  On  the  right  of  the  main  entrance  there 
is  a  long  inscription  of  forty  lines,  which  I  blacked  care- 
fully with  charcoal,  that  it  might  1)e  more  distinct  in  oui* 
photograph.  There  is  another  long  inscription  on  the 
lintel  above  the  entrance,  and  others  in  other  parts  of 
the  building.  Over  the  two  small  side-doors  there  are 
niches  with  columns  and  triangular  roofs.  The  niches 
terminate  above  in  shell- shaped  coverings.  The  interior 
of  the  temple  is  forty-six  by  forty-two  feet,  with  a  large 
apse,  fourteen  feet  nine  inches  in  diameter,  opposite  the 
entrance,  above  which  is  a  shell-shaped  roof  of  great 
beauty.      The  roof   of   the  temple  rested   on  four  large 


18 


EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 


arches,  which  were  supported  by  foui*  Corinthian  columns. 
The  roof  has  fallen,  hut  the  columns  remain,  and  are 
ornamented  mth  nicely  carved  wreaths  extending  around 
each  about  two  feet  below  the  capitals.  These  columns 
are  about  thirty  feet  high,  and  on  the  walls  there  are 
corresponding  pilasters.  On  the  walls  there  are  also 
brackets  or  pedestals  for  statues. 


Interior  of  Temple  at    Musmieh.      [From    De  Vogue.] 

1  give  De  Vogiie's  illustration  in  preference  to  our 
own  photograph,  because  it  shows  the  interior  of  this 
temple  to  much  better  advantage. 

Other  pubhc  buildings  exist  among  the  ruins,  but, 
together  with  the  private  houses,  they  have  long  since 
been  destroyed  by  earthquakes  and  other  causes.     To  this 


AMONG   THE   CITIES  OF  B A  SHAN.  19 

statement  exception  should  be  made  of  a  large  building 
which  belonged  apparentl}^  to  a  group,  and  which  may 
have  been  a  palace,  or  the  residence  of  the  legate  or 
governor  of  this  capital  city  of  Trachonitis.  This  building 
is  three  stories  high.  The  stones  of  which  it  is  built  are 
not  large,,  and  the  roof  is  formed  in  the  usual  manner,  i.  e., 
of  long,  weU-hewn  stone  slabs,  that  are  jointed  closely, 
resting  on  corbels,  and  supported  in  the  interior  of  the 
rooms  by  means  of  arches.  Here,  and  in  the  surrounding 
buildings,  the  doors  and  windows  and  the  other  architect- 
ural features  show  them  to  have  been  costly  and  elegant 
structures. 

Most  of  the  inscriptions  found  here  belong  to  the 
Emperors  Marcus  Am-elius,  Lucius  Aurelius  Verus,  Corn- 
modus,  Septimius  Severus,  and  Alexander  Severus,  A.  D. 
151-235.  Parts  of  two  legions  were  stationed  here,  and  Gr. 
Egnatius  Fuscus  and  G-.  Helvius  Marianus,  two  centurions 
of  the  Third  Gallic  Legion,  are  mentioned,  and  also  Petusius 
Eudemus  and  L.  Aurelius  Maximus,  two  centurions  belong- 
ing to  the  Sixteenth  Legion,  which  bore  the  name  of  Flavia 
Firma.  Two  consular  legates  of  Syria  are  mentioned,  one 
Avidius  Cassius,  celebrated  in  connection  with  a  great 
revolt  in  this  region,  whose  name  has  been  effaced  or 
mutilated  on  many  monuments  in  the  Hauran;  and  the 
other  Julius  Saturninus,  who  addressed  a  letter  or  decree 
to  the  inhabitants  of  Phaena  with  regard  to  the  entertain- 
ment by  the  citizens  of  soldiers  and  travellers.  This  in- 
scription is  the  one  referred  to  as  written  on  the  right  of 
the  entrance,  while  that  pertaining  to  Avidius  Cassius  is  on 
the  lintel  over  it.  As  L.  A.  Verus  died  in  January,  A.  D. 
169,  this  inscription  of  A.  Cassius  woiUd  precede  that 
date.  The  name  of  the  Third  Gallic  Legion  has  been  par- 
tially effaced  here,  and  on  some  other  monuments  entirely, 
because  of  the  disgrace  it  incurred  by  its  connection  with 


20  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

one  or  more  famous  and  serious  revolts.     The  interesting 
decree  of  Saturninus  deserves  to  be  translated  entire : 

"Julius  Saturninus  to  the  people  of  Phaena,  in  the  metropolis  of 
Trachon,  greeting:  If  any  one,  soldier  or  private  person,  forcibly 
quarter  himself  on  you,  let  me  know  it  and  you  shall  have  justice 
done  you ;  for  neither  do  you  owe  any  contribution  to  strangers, 
nor,  since  you  have  a  public  house,  can  you  be  compelled  to  receive 
strangers  into  your  dwellings.  This,  my  decree,  put  up  in  a  public 
place  within  your  metropolis,  that  no  one  may  jilead  ignorance." 

This  inscription  is  important,  as  showing  that  what  is 
now  called  the  Lejah  corresponds  to  the  Trachonitis  of 
the  New  Testament  times,  one  of  the  provinces  over  which 
Herod  Philip  ruled.  In  Luke  iii.,  1,  he  is  called  "  Philip 
the  tetrareh."  The  fact  of  the  estaljlishment  of  public 
lodging  houses  or  hotels,  where  soldiers  and  travellers  could 
be  entertained,  is  also  interesting. 

The  word  which  I  have  rendered  "  metropolis  "  is  mefro- 
Jconiia  and  means  "  important  place "  or  "  chief  town." 
There  appear  to  have  been  in  the  Trachonitis  one  or  two 
other  places  of  the  same  rank. 

The  Sixteenth  Legion  here  mentioned  was  for  a  long 
tune  stationed  in  Germany.  It  suffered  severely  in  the 
civil  war  which  preceded  the  accession  of  Vespasian.  This 
prince  reorganized  it,  and  gave  it  the  surname  of  Flavia, 
to  which  was  added  subsequently  that  of  Firma.  It  is 
not  definitely  known  at  what  period  this  legion  passed 
to  the  East,  but  it  took  part  in  the  Parthian  war  of 
Trajan,  and  it  was  in  Syria  during  aU  the  reign  of  Mar- 
cus Aurelius,  as  is  shown  by  several  inscriptions  found 
at  Abila,  Phaena,  and  Philippopolis.  Under  Alexander 
Severus  it  remained  in  Sjrria,  and  at  the  end  of  the 
fourth  century  it  was  stationed  at  Sura,  near  the  Eu- 
phrates. During  the  reign  of  Marcus  Aurelius,  its  jjer- 
manent  camp  appears  to  have  been  in  the  neighborhood 


AMONG   THE   CITIES   OF  B A  SHAN.  21 

of  Damascus,  and  the  same  is  true  of  the  Thii-d  Gfillic 
Legion  (Waddington,  No.  2071).  Waddington  thinks  he 
has  shown  that  the  proper  name  of  this  phice  was  Phaena, 
<Paiva,  and  not  Phaeno,  <^ai^'(lJ,  as  has  been  claimed  or  as- 
sumed by  some  wi-iters.  Hierocles,  in  his  "  Sjoiecdemus," 
gives  the  name  as  Phaena.  The  table  of  Peutinger,  in 
enumerating  the  stations  on  the  Roman  road  leading 
from  Damascus  to  Jerusalem  by  way  of  Philadelphia, 
makes  the  first  to  be  twenty-foiu-  miles  from  Damascus, 
and  calls  the  place  Aenos ;  the  second  station  is  Canatha, 
thii'ty-seven  miles;  the  third,  Rhose,  twenty  miles;  the 
foiirth,  Haditha,  forty  miles ;  the  fifth,  Gadda,  eleven 
miles;  and  the  sixth,  Philadelphia,  thii'teen  miles.  For 
Aenos  it  is  proposed  to  read  Phaenos,  and  thus  Musmieh 
will  be  the  place  intended,  the  distances  to  Damascus  and 
Canatha  being  suitable. 

Phaena  was  an  episcopal  city,  subject  to  Bozrah,  and 
was  represented  in  the  councils  of  Chalcedon  and  Ephesus. 
Burckhardt  found  the  place  uninhabited,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  some  laborers  who  were  digging  saltpetre;  and 
George  Robinson,  twenty  years  later,  found  no  one  there. 
We  ourselves  found  a  small  tribe  of  Arabs  encamped 
near  the  ruins,  who  seemed  to  be  noted  for  their  thieving 
propensities. 

Om'  camping-ground  at  Musmieh  was  on  the  plain 
beyond  the  rim  of  the  Lejah,  to  the  north  and  east  of  which 
stretched  a  vast  level  country.  A  part  of  the  plain  near 
us  looked  as  if  it  had  been  flooded,  and  some  small  pools 
of  water  still  remained;  while  in  other  portions  the 
ground  had  been  baked  until  it  had  cracked,  and  resem- 
bled the  muddy  bed  of  a  stream  after  the  water  has 
dried  away.  Yet,  dry  and  barren  as  the  fields  appear,  we 
were  told  that  this  soil  yielded  the  finest  crops.  We 
found    excellent  water    near    by,  which    made    oui-  stay 


22  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

at  this  place  more  enjoyable.  The  morning  of  the 
day  on  which  we  left  Musmieh,  we  were  aroused  about 
three  o'clock  by  a  company  of  Tui-kish  soldiers  passing 
our  camp.  It  happened  that  some  of  our  men  found  old 
acquaintances  among  them,  as'  they  had  come  from  the 
vicinity  of  Beirut,  and  the  passing  of  compliments  between 
them  was  rather  a  noisy  affair.  Two  or  more  hours 
later  they  returned,  and  their-  animals  were  laden  with 
skins  of  water.  To  get  water  was,  we  were  told,  the 
object  of  their  visit.  They  said  that  these  people  in  this 
part  of  the  Lejah,  of  whom  we  had  seen  specimens  among 
the  ruins  at  Musmieh,  were  in  rebellion.  We  learned, 
however,  that  the  soldiers  were  in  this  vicinity  collecting 
taxes,  which'  is  a  sufficient  explanation  of  the  rebellion 
to  which  they  referred. 

Burak,  or  Brak,  as  some  prefer  to  write  the  name, 
two  hours  north-west  of  Musmieh,  is  specially  interesting, 
because  it  has  been  identified  with  the  episcopal  city 
Constantia,  which  is  mentioned  by  Hierocles  in  connec- 
tion with  Phaena.  Its  bishop,  Solemus,  was  present  at 
the  councO.  of  Chalcedon  in  the  fifth  century,  or  A.  D.  451. 
Waddington  calls  attention  to  the  fact  that  all  the  per- 
sons mentioned  in  the  inscriptions  from  this  place  bear 
the  name  of  Flavins,  from  which  he  concludes  that  the 
city  was  founded  or  at  least  embellished  by  Constantine. 
The  crosses  and  other  Christian  symbols  which  exist  on 
the  buildings  here  indicate  that  the  houses  remain  as 
they  were  left  in  the  early  centuries,  when  the  Moslems 
swept  away  the  inhabitants  of  this  region,  leaving  the 
cities  and  the  land  in  desolation. 

As  evidence  with  regard  to  the  antiquity  of  these  Hau- 
ran  towns  is  impDrtant,  I  wiU  quote  from  Rev.  W.  Wright, 
who  says  of  these  houses  in  Burak  that  "they  seem  to 
stand  on  a  mound  of  black  earth,  while  in  reality  they 


AMONG   THE   CITIES   OF  B A  SHAN.  23 

are  "built  on  the  foimdatious  of  houses  of  a  more  remote 
antiquity.  I  descended  in  one  place  to  a  depth  of  sixteen 
or  eighteen  feet  to  see  some  pottery  lately  discovered,  and 
I  found  the  walls  at  that  depth  formed  of  enormous  un- 
dressed and  unsquared  stones,  unlike  the  stones  of  the 
superstructiu'e,  which  are  smaller  in  size,  and  have  been 
better  prepared  for  the  walls.  *  *  *  Nor  will  it  be 
doubted  that  beneath  that  raised  mound  are  buried  the 
remains  of  one  of  the  '  threescore  cities '  that  once  existed 
in  Bashan,  and  which  still  exist  under  changed  circum- 
stances, sometimes  under  different  names"  (p.  382). 

Burak  is  situated  at  the  extreme  north  end  of  the  lava 
bed,  and  beyond  it  the  plain  is  wide  and. fertile.  Some 
distance  east  of  the  town  is  Wady  Liwa,  a  winter  stream, 
which  comes  from  Jebel  Hauran,  and  flows  north  along 
the  border  of  the  Lejah,  and  is  finally  hjst  in  the  lake  or 
marsh  of  Heijaneh.  The  caravan  route  between  the 
Hauran  Mountains  and  Damascus  touches  this  place ;  and 
the  ancient  road  also,  cut  a  part  of  the  way  through  the 
basalt  rock,  crossed  this  wady,  and  followed  up  its 
eastern  bank  towards  the  hills. 

The  name  Burak  means  "  cisterns  "  or  "  reservoirs,"  and 
upon  these  the  inhabitants  formerly  depended  for  water. 
South-east  of  the  town  are  the  remains  of  an  aqueduct, 
supported  at  some  points  on  arches,  which  brought 
the  water  from  the  winter  stream  already  mentioned  to 
the  town.  The  aqueduct  has  been  neglected  and  ruined, 
and  the  main  reservoir  is  filled  with  stones,  an  act  said 
to  have  been  done  by  Ibrahim  Pasha  in  his  efforts  to 
subdue  the  inhabitants  of  this  district. 


Peripteral    Temple    at    Kunawat 

CHAPTER   ni. 

Among  the  Cities  of  Bashan. — Contiuued. 

Khubab,  a  Christian  village.  Occupations  of  the  people.  Fine  stone 
houses.  Mill-stones.  Influence  of  Christian  Missions.  Edlir'a  or 
Zor'a.  Interesting  and  very  ancient  chureli.  Is  this  the  site  of 
Edrei  ?  Kirateh.  Strange  Cyclopean  remains.  Suleim.  Temple 
well  preserved.  Inscriptions.  Shuhba  identified  with  Philippopolis. 
Its  ruins  and  theatre.  Kunawat  the  Kenath  of  the  Old  Testament. 
Its  "daughter  towns."  Situation.  Castles.  Bath.  Theatre.  Tem- 
ples.    Head  of  Astarte.     Bullock's  head  and  altars. 

KHUBAB  is  a  Christian  village,  and  there  are  e^ddeut 
signs  of  its  thrift  and  prosperity.  The  young  men 
and  women  were  clean  and  intelligent  looking,  and  some 
of  the  houses  were  quite  comfortable,  showing  that  mis- 


AMONG   THE   CITIES   OF  BASH  AN.  25 

sionary  influence,  which  has  reached  even  to  this  remote 
point,  has  not  done  so  in  vain.  The  place  is  three  hours 
and  twenty-five  minutes  south-west  from  Musmieh,  and 
has  some  substantial  buildings,  in  superior  Hauran  style. 
Large  stone  doors  are  not  only  seen  in  position  here, 
liut  they  are  still  in  use,  as  fashionable  and  as  likely  to 
last  as  they  were  centuries  ago,  when  they  were  first  hung 
on  their  stone  hinges.  TOling  the  soil  is  of  course  the  main 
l)usiness  of  these  people,  but  they  also  prepare  a  great 
many  mill-stones,  which  find  a  ready  sale  in  the  towns  on 
the  sea-coast  and  elsewhere.  We  saw  several  quarries  where 
such  stones  are  cut  out  and  di'essed,  and  a  good  many  that 
were  ready  to  be  sent  away.  They  are  made,  of  course,  of 
the  basalt  rock,  for  there  is  no  other  kind  in  the  region. 
The  price  of  these  stones  is  about  three  napoleons,  or  twelve 
dollars,  each,  although  this  varies  according  to  the  size. 

Burckhardt  states  that  "  these  mill-stones  are  made  in 
great  numbers  by  the  inhabitants  of  Ezra"  (which  I  have 
written  Edhr'a),  "and  exported  thence,  as  well  as  from 
other  villages  in  the  Lejah,  over  the  greater  part  of  Syria, 
as  far  as  Aleppo  and  Jerusalem."  He  adds  that  "on  ac- 
count of  the  hardness  of  the  stone  found  here  they  are 
specially  prized"  (p.  57).  Elsewhere,  referring  to  this 
liusiness,  he  says  :  "  The  stones  are  cut  horizontally  out  of 
the  rocks,  leaving  holes  four  or  five  feet  in  depth,  and  as 
many  in  cii'cumferenee.  Fifty  or  sixty  of  these  excava- 
tions are  often  met  with  in  the  circumference  of  a  mile " 
(p.  113).  Among  old  ruins,  and  even  in  the  deserted  parts 
of  the  country,  ancient  mill-stones  are  found  in  great  num- 
bers, and  in  the  later  chapters  of  this  work  we  shall  have 
occasion  to  refer  to  some  of  very  large  size. 

From  the  priest  and  schoolmaster,  and  some  of  the 
Christian  people  here,  we  learned  of  Mr.  Wright's  visit, 
and  his  efforts  to  sell  religious  books,  which  were  not 
2 


26  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

always  successful.  Not  an  ill  word  was  spoken  of  him, 
however,  and  I  judge  that  he  was  regarded  with  respect 
even  by  those  who  hated  Protestant  Christianity.  Mr. 
Wright  himself  speaks  of  a  young  woman,  a  pretty  little 
bride,  named  Ferideh,  who  had  learned  German  and 
become  a  Protestant  with  the  Prussian  deaconesses  in 
Beirut,  and  who  came  to  him  and  purchased  a  Bogatzsky's 
"  Golden  Treasmy."  But  her  husband,  who  was  "  still 
under  the  yoke  of  the  priest,"  compelled  her  to  retiu'u  it 
the  next  day. 

He  spent  a  Sabbath  here,  and  refers  mth  enthusiasm  to 
the  cheerful  appearance  which  the  place  presented  that 
day,  with  its  trooj)  of  girls  attii'ed  in  then-  bright  Sunday 
di'esses,  and  the  heads  of  families  resting  with  them  in  the 
little  grassy  fields,  as  a  scene  which  '^  comes  as  near  a  picture 
of  home  life  in  a  country  village  as  anything  I  have  wit- 
nessed in  this  country"  (p.  522).  "The  women  here  spin 
and  weave  and  attend  to  household  matters,  and  keep 
themselves  comparatively  clean.  One  of  their  occupations, 
exclusively,  is  kneading  the  cows'  dung,  and  sticking  it  on 
the  wall  to  dry  for  fuel.  When  these  balls  are  dry,  they 
are  gathered  and  stacked  for  winter  use." 

The  people,  in  order  to  avoid  robbers,  "  hide  their  wheat 
in  pits  in  the  earth,  which  they  stop  up  and  cover  over  with 
dung,  rubbish,  and  stones,  so  that  the  Arabs  do  not  always 
find  their  grain  treasures ;  but  they  sometimes  subject  the 
sheikh  to  cruel  tortures,  to  make  him  disclose  where  the 
grain  is  concealed  "  (p.  521). 

Edhr'a,  or  Zor'a,  is  interesting,  not  only  on  account  of  its 
very  ancient  church  and  the  remains  of  other  public  build- 
ings, but  also  on  account  of  its  size,  being  three  or  four 
miles  in  circumference,  and  its  situation,  being  entii-ely 
within  the  Lejah.  The  road  to  it  is  excavated  in  the  rock, 
and  the  site  is  one  of  great  natural  strength.    This  place  has 


A3I0NG   THE   CITIES   OF  B A  SHAN.  27 

also  become  famous  as  one  of  two  rival  claimants  for  being 
the  second  capital  of  Og,  King  of  Bashan.  The  following  are 
some  of  the  more  important  facts  bearing  upon  this  question : 

It  is  claimed  by  some  that  Edrei  of  the  Bible  is  repre- 
sented by  Dra'a,  which  appears  to  correspond  in  name  and 
position  to  Adraa  of  the  Romans,  twenty-four  miles  west  of 
Bozrah.  Others  claim  that,  on  several  accounts,  it  is  more 
properly  located  at  Zor'a,  or  Edhr'a,  some  distance  farther 
north,  on  the  western  border  of  the  Lejah.  When  all  the 
facts  are  examined,  it  will  be  found  that  there  is  justice  in 
both  these  claims  ;  and  the  theory  which  makes  two  places 
of  this  name  may  prove  to  be  the  correct  one.  The  duplica- 
tion of  names  is  a  common  fact  in  Palestinean  geography, 
and  need  occasion  no  surprise,  except  that  in  this  case  the 
places  thus  named  would  be  rather  near  each  other.  The  last 
theory  is  best  stated  by  Keil  and  Delitzsch,  Commentary  on 
Numb,  xxi.,  33-35,  and  Deut.  iii.,  10:  "There  were  two 
towns  in  Bashan  of  the  name  of  Edrei  5  one  of  them  is  men- 
tioned in  Deut.  i.,  4,  and  in  Josh,  xii.,  4,  with  Ashtaroth,  as 
a  second  residence  of  King  Og,  and  corresponds  to  Dra'a." 
"  The  other  Edi-ei,  which  is  mentioned  in  Deut.  iii.,  10,  as 
the  north-western  frontier  of  Bashan,  was  farther  towards 
the  north,  and  is  still  to  be  seen  in  the  ruins  of  Zorah,  or 
Ethra,  or  Edlira." 

If  in  Dent,  iii.,  10,  where  the  limits  of  the  conquest  of. 
Eastern  Palestine  are  described,  we  make  Edrei,  in  the 
statement  "  unto  Salchah  and  Edrei,"  refer  to  Dra'a,  we 
seem  to  exclude  Bashan,  which  we  know  should  be  included. 
Dra'a  is  properly  on  the  south-west  border  of  Bashan,  since 
the  great  Wady  Zeidi,  on  which  it  stands,  forms  the  dividing 
line  between  the  lava  region  of  the  Hauran  and  the  lime- 
stone region  of  Gilead. 

Eli  Smith  writes  these  names  and  comments  upon  them 

as  follows  :  "  Der'a,  vcj.^,  Burckhardt  4C)  Ju\.     It  is  east  of 


28  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

the  Haj  road,  between  Mezai'ib  and  Remtheli.  *  *  *  Its 
ruins  will    not    compare   at  all  with  those    of    Edhr'a." 

"Edhr'a,    Edrei,    5^ji\.     Burckhardt      ^jj^-     Abulfeda 

'Tabula  Syriae,'  p.  97,  >_1j\c)J>).  See  also  'Edrisi,'  par 
Jaubert,  i.,  pp.  354,  361.  *  *  *  Probably  Edrei,  Josh, 
xiii.,  31 "  (Robinson,  vol.  iii.,  Appendix,  pp.  152,  155). 

It  is  evident  that,  in  Mr.  Smith's  judgment,  the  Edi-ei  of  the 
Bible  corresponds  to  the  modern  Edhr'a,  rather  than  to  Dra'a. 

Waddington,  on  the  other  hand  (No.  2479),  is  certain  that 
Edhr'a  or  Ezr'a  bore  in  the  Roman  times  the  name  of 
Zorava,  and  that  it  is  not  the  city  of  Adraa  or  Edi"ei.  In 
No.  2070?.  he  is  equally  confident  that  Adraa  is  the  Edrei 
of  the  Bible.    He  says  that  the  Arab  geographers  write  the 

name  o\c)3i,  but  that  the  modern  orthography  is,  uIjW)^. 
He  refers  to  Wetzstein,  "  Reisebericht,"  page  77,  who 
gives  the  same  orthography,  and  adds,  with  regard  to  the 

other  place  mentioned,  that  the  Bedawin  call  it  9-  j\,  Zor'a, 

while  the  Damascenes  call  it  9'j\\  Ezr'a. 

We  may  admit  that  the  Roman  name  was  Zorava;  but 
what  older  name  did  this  represent?  The  Arabs,  in 
reproducing  it,  have  introduced  an  ain,  ^  from  which  it 
is  to  be  inferred  that  this  letter  existed  in  the  original  name, 
and  hence  this  could  easily  have  been  the  Biblical  Edrei. 

In  Abulfeda  "Tab.  S}t.,"  page  106,  there  is  the  foUowiug 
statement:  "and  between  Sarchod  and  the  city  of  Zor'a, 
?\jj,  chief  of  the  cities  of  the  Hauran,  about  a  day."  The 
distance  is  two  good  days ;  but  it  is  the  spelling  which  is  now 
in  point.  The  writer  can  only  mean  Ezr'a  or  Edhr'a,  and  the 
importance  which  he  gives  to  the  place  must  be  noticed. 

In  the  list  of  ecclesiastical  cities  belonging  to  the  province 
of  Arabia,  which  had  Bostra  for  its  metropolis,  Adraa  is 


AMONG   THE   CITIES   OF  BA8HAN.  29 

mentioned,  with  no  other  name  resembling  it  in  the  least. 
There  is  no  indication  whether  this  refers  to  Dra'a  or 
Edlir'a.  In  the  ecclesiastical  province  of  Palestine  III., 
of  which  Petra  was  the  metropolis,  there  is  another  Adraa 
mentioned.  'Hierocles,  in  his  "  Synecdemus,"  mentions, 
in  the  province  of  Arabia,  an  Adra  and  an  Adrassus. 
Ptolemy,  among-  the  towns  of  Coele  Syria,  mentions  Adra. 
Among  the  towns  of  Arabia  PetrtBa,  he  mentions  Adrou 
and  Adra.  His  Adra  of  Coele  Syria  has  68|°  longitude 
and  32^°  latitude,  while  his  Adi'a  of  Arabia  Petraea  has 
69§°  longitude  and  31f°  latitude.  His  longitude  and  lati- 
tude for  Bostra  are  respectively  68i|°  and  31. p.  This  would 
bring  his  Adra  of  Coele  Syria  slightly 
to  the  west  of  Bostra,  and  a  good 
distance  to  the  north  of  it,  which 
would  correspond  better  with  Edhr'a 
than  with  Dra'a. 

The  I'uins,  as  well  as  aU  the  other 
hints  that  can  be  gathered,  seem  to 
point  out  Edhr'a  as  the  more  important 
of  these  two  places.  One  of  the  oldest 
Plan  of  the  Church  at  as  wcU  as  ouc  of  the  most  remarkable 
[  rom  e  ogue.j  Qj^^istiau  mouumeuts,  the  church  built 
by  John,  the  son  of  Diomed,  on  the  site  of  a  heathen  tem- 
ple, and  dedicated  to  Saint  George,  still  exists  at  Edhr'a. 
May  not  Edhr'a  1)e,  after  all,  the  ecclesiastical  Adraa  which 
was  subject  to  Bostra,  and  may  not  the  theory  of  two 
Edreis  be  the  correct  one? 

An  Arabic  scholar  in  Beirut  gives  it  as  his  opinion  that 
there  may  have  been  two  places  of  this  name,  and  adds : 
"  In  pronunciation,  the  Arabs  often  make  dh,  j,  to  sound 

like  d,  .i,  and  then  again  like  z,  \,  so  that  one  can  hardly 

tell  whether  they  mean  (as  in  this  case)  \cjJ>  or  p j j/' *•  ^v 
Dhra'a  or  Zor'a. 


30  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Waddington  (No.  2498)  thinks  that  the  temple  which 
this  chui'ch  replaced  was  dedicated  to  the  god  Theau- 
drites.  It  seems  that  John  was  one  of  the  principal 
citizens  of  Zorava,  and  that  Saint  George  appeared  to 
him,  not  in  a  dream  but  in  reality,  and  as  a  result  of 
this  actual  vision  the  son  of  Diomed  was  led  to  build 
this  church.  "  Like  the  cathedral  of  Bozrah,  which  was 
built  at  the  same  epoch,  it  has  the  form  of  an  octagon 
inscribed  in  a  square  plan.  Eight  columns,  bound  by- 
arches,  support  the  cupola,  which  is  surrounded  on  the 
outside  by  an  open  gallery.  In  the  four  corners  of  the 
church  there  are  smaU  chapels,  and  on  one  side  a  large 
chapel  projected  on  the  square,  and  here  is  the  tomb  of 
Saint  George,  an  object  of  veneration  to  both  Christians 
and  Mohammedans  "  ("Waddington,  No.  2498). 

About  three  hoiu*s  from  Edhr'a  in  a  south-easterly 
direction,  and  on  the  border  of  the  Lejah,  there  is  a  small 
ruined  town  called  Kirateh,  where  we  camped  from  Sat- 
urday, September  18,  to  Monday,  September  20,  1875. 
The  place  has  no  inhabitants.  It  has  a  large  fountain  of 
excellent  water,  which  is  fuU  of  fish.  Some  of  the  houses 
in  the  town  are  weU  preserved.  North-west  of  these  ruins, 
and  within  the  Lejah,  I  found  some  singular  structures, 
of  one  of  which  a  sketch  is  presented.  The  region  here 
is  the  solid  lava-bed,  broken  into  hillocks,  which  are  ofteii 
divided  into  many  sections  by  gaping  seams.  The  struct- 
ures to  which  reference  is  made  were  all  built  of  large, 
unhewn  stones,  and  were  from  twenty-five  to  thirtj-five 
feet  in  length;  i.  p.,  that  was  the  length  of  the  front  wall 
or  eastern  face,  which  was  in  every  case  exactly  north  and 
south,  while  the  western  outline  was  circular,  generally 
much  larger  than  a  semicircle.  They  occupied  the  sum- 
mits of  the  low  rock-knolls,  with  which  the  Lejah  abounds. 


AMONG   THE   CITIES  OF  BASHAN. 


31 


one  on  each  summit.  I  counted  fifteen  of  these  structures 
in  the  region  which  I  examined.  In  the  centre  of  each 
is  a  rectangular  pit  or  hole,  eight,  nine,  and  sometimes 


Cyclopean  Structure  in  the  Lejah,   near   Kirateh. 


twelve  feet  long,  and  six  to  eight  feet  wide.  As  the 
whole  structure  is  built  on  the  top  of  the  rock,  the  bot- 
tom of  these  pits  does  not  probably  extend  below  that 
surface.  Generally  only  the  bottom  layer  remains,  but 
this  is  made,  in  some  cases,  of  stones  that  are  four,  five, 
and  even  six  feet  high. 

The  platform  of  great  unhewn  stones  into  which  the 
pit  appears  to  be  sunk,  was  built  with  striking  regu- 
larity and  solidity.  Considering  the  size  of  the  stones 
employed,  as  well  as  of  the  structures  themselves,  they 
seem  far  too  elaborate  and  costly  for  tombs.  In  that  case, 
why  should  the  east  side  be  exactly  north  and  south  ?  and 
why  should  the  other  side  be  circular  ?  The  condition  of 
these  ruins  leads  me  to  think  that  there  has  been  more  to 


32 


EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 


them  than  appears  at  present.  There  may  have  been  above 
the  platform  some  kind  of  rude  pyi-amid.  The  outer  wall 
of  the  circular  portion  of  the  platform  has  been  removed, 


■^' 


Temple  at  Suieim. 


and,  indeed,  the  larger  portion  of  the  platform  has,  in 
some  cases,  been  carried  away.  This  would  indicate  that 
the  structures  are  of  great  age. 

Suieim,  about  one  hour  north-west  of  Kunawat,  is  inter- 
esting because  it  contains  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
temples  which  stiU  exist  in  the  Hauran.  The  waUs  have 
fallen  into  the  temple  itself,  and   nearly  fill  it;  in   most 


AMONG   THE   CITIES  OF  B A  SHAN.  33 

cases  elsewhere  the  fallen  stones  have,  to  a  great  extent, 
been  taken  away  and  used  for  other  purposes. 

In  1812,  Burckhardt  found  this  place  deserted.  In  1820, 
G-eorge  Robinson  found  it  occupied  by  a  number  of  fam- 
*ilies.  At  present  it  is  inhabited  by  Druzes,  and  is  quite  a 
flourishing  although  not  a  large  town.  Mr.  Robinson 
speaks  of  seeing  many  Greek  inscriptions  here,  but  I 
found  none  except  those  given  by  Waddington,  which  I 
verified. 

Nearly  in  front  of  the  temple  is  a  cistern  of  great  size. 
The  roof  is  supported  by  three  substantial  arches.  The 
foiu"  sections  of  the  roof  itself  are  formed  of  stone  slabs, 
which  rest  at  each  end  on  corbels  or  stones  bound  into  the 
walls  and  projecting  twenty  inches  or  two  feet  on  each 
side.  The  cistern  was  twenty-four  by  twenty-six  feet,  and 
thirty  feet  deep.  The  entire  surface  of  the  inside  appears 
to  have  been  covered  originally  with  cement.  A  portion  of 
the  roof  has  fallen  in,  and  below  that  place  a  good  deal 
of  debris  has  accumulated  on  the  bottom  of  the  cistern. 

It  has  been  thought  by  some  that  this  place,  in  the 
Christian  period,  bore  the  name  of  Neapolis,  and  hence  was 
one  of  the  episcopal  cities  of  this  region  and  the  seat  of  a 
bishop.  There  is  among  the  stones  in  front  of  the  temple, 
one  on  which  is  a  well-preserved  inscription  of  eight  lines 
in  Greek  hexameters.  The  last  line  contains  the  name 
of  the  architect  or  builder,  Sadus,  according  to  Wadding- 
ton, and  the  statement  that  he  was  from  the  city  of 
Neapolis.  The  existence  of  this  name  here  is  the  ground 
on  which  it  is  claimed  that  the  place  must  be  the  episcopal 
city  refen'ed  to.  On  the  other  hand,  M.  Waddington  is  of 
the  opinion  that  when  an  architect  or  builder  resided  in  the 
place  where  his  work  was  done,  only  his  name  was  given, 
and  the  place  of  his  residence  was  not  added,  simply 
because  it  was  not  necessary  to  do  so.  Hence  he  concludes 
9*      . 


34  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

that  tnis  cannot  be  the  site  of  Neapolis.  In  his  judgment, 
the  modern  names  of  places  in  the  Hauran  are  in  general 
only  the  ancient  names  slightly  altered.  He  proposes 
Selaema  as  the  ancient  name  of  Suleim,  and  bases  his  con- 
clusion upon  a  fragment  of  an  inscription,  as  follows:' 
****  XaiiiTjvoi^  which  he  restores  thus:  ****  2fc]Aa</i?/ro. 
*****.  A  fragment  of  another  inscription  reads :  **** 
c^l^iTj,  which  he  restores  to    ***  k]u)ij.t]. 

These  fragments  are  all  that  remain  of  two  inscriptions, 
and  it  is  upon  this  extremely  slight  basis  that  Waddiugton 
concludes  that  the  ancient  name  of  the  place  was  Selaema, 
and  that  it  was  a  village,  KUfiT]^  and  not  a  city,  -o/ag 
(Nos.  2377,  2378,  2381).  I  do  not  pretend  to  say  that  he 
is  not  correct,  but  the  evidence  is  not  of  the  most  con- 
clusive character. 

Abou^t  one  and  one-half  hours  north-east  of  Suleim  is  a 
ruined  town  called  Shuhba,  wliicli  has  been  identified  as  the 
ancient  Philippopolis,  the  birthplace  of  the  Emperor  Philip, 
who  is  named  also  the  Arabian,  in  commemoration  of  his 
origin.  He  reigned  from  A.  D.  244  to  249.  Bm-ckhardt 
found  at  Orman,  a  place  situated  a  short  distance  to  the  east 
of  Salchad,  an  inscription  stating  that  Gautos,  a  senator  of 
Philippopolis,  erected  some  monument  in  the  year  A.  D.  358, 
and,  since  the  finding  of  this  inscription,  it  has  been  quite 
generally  accepted  that  this  is  the  city  which  the  Emperor 
Philip  built.  But  Waddington  (No.  2019)  argues  that  if 
Gautos  had  lived  in  the  place,  he  would  have  said  '*  senator" 
simply,  without  adding  his  residence.  An  extract  from  a 
summaiy  of  the  evidence  is  as  foUows :  "  Philip  was  an 
Arab  of  Trachonitis,  the  son  of  a  celebrated  chief  of  brig- 
ands [this  is  the  statement  of  Aurelius  Victor],  and  he 
founded  in  Arabia  a  city  called  Philippopolis.  Now,  on  the 
very  border  of  the  Trachonitis,  we  find  the  ruins  of  a  large 


AMONG   THE   CITIES  OF  B A  SHAN.  35 

eit}^,  surrounded  with  walls  which  form  a  rectangular  enclos- 
ure, traversed  by  two  splendid  paved  streets  which  cross 
each  other  at  right  angles,  and  adorned  with  a  theatre,  an 
aqueduct,  baths,  temples,  and  numerous  pubhc  edifices  ;  we 
observe  that  all  these  edifices  are  of  the  same  epoch ;  that 
the  city  was  built,  as  it  were,  by  a  single  stroke,  and  that  a 
portion  of  its  outer  space  has  never  been  occupied  by  dwell- 
ings ;  in  a  word,  we  meet  at  Shuhba  with  all  the  signs  of  a 
rapid  and  artificial  creation,  rather  than  those  of  a  regular 
and  natural  growth  ;  we  find  that  the  city  began  a  new  era 
with  the  commencement  of  Philip's  reign,  and  lastly,  of  ten 
of  the  inscriptions  which  have  been  brought  to  light  here, 
one  is  of  an  uncertain  epoch,  one  is  of  the  reign  of  Marcus 
Aurelius,  one  is  Christian,  and  seven  others  belong  to  Philip 
and  to  his  family  "  (No.  2072). 

This  was  an  ecclesiastical  city  of  the  province  of  Ai'abia, 
and  it  is  situated  on  Wady  Nimreh,  which  in  its  lower  part 
is  called  "Wady  Liwa.  Near  the  place  are  two  volcanic 
peaks  called  Ghararas,  which  are  covered  with  fragments  of 
porous  lava,  while  the  openings  of  the  craters  at  the  top 
are  still  visible. 

The  streets,  referred  to  in  the  extract  from  M,  Wadding- 
ton,  which  are  about  twenty-five  feet  wide,  terminated  in  a 
gate  at  each  end,  except  that  the  wall  on  the  south  side  of 
the  town  had  two  gates.  Each  gate  consists  of  two  arches 
separated  by  a  pillar.  The  water  for  the  baths  was  brought 
a  distance  of  twelve  miles  by  means  of  an  aqueduct,  of 
which  five  arches  still  remain.  The  baths  themselves  were 
spacious,  and  contained  beautiful  sculptures. 

The  theatre  here,  which  Burckhardt  was  the  first  to  ^dsit 
and  describe,  is  in  very  good  preservation.  "  It  is  built  on  a 
sloping  site,  and  the  semicircle  is  enclosed  by  a  wall  nearly 
ten  feet  in  thickness,  in  which  are  vaulted  entrances  into 
the  interior.     Between  the  wall  and  the  seats  runs  a  double 


36 


EAST  OF  THE  JOED  AN. 


row  of  vaulted  chambers,  one  over  the  other"  (Burck- 
hardt,  p.  77).  "  The  orchestra  is  seventeen  yards  in 
diameter,  and  there  are  thirteen  rows  of  seats,  divided  into 


Ancient  Castle  at   Kunawat.      Ronnan    Round-Tower  in  the   Distance.. 

two  tiers  by  a  broad  passage  running  round  the  building 
and  opening  by  doors  on  a  concentric  corridor"  (Porter, 
''  Handbook,"  under  ShuhhaJ. 

One  of  the  first  things  to  be  noticed  about  Kunawat — 
which  I  consider  as,  beyond  a  doubt,  the  Kenath  of  the 
Old  Testament — is  its  remarkable  situation.  It  over- 
looks a  vast  region,  and  is   suiTounded  by  a  cluster  of 


A3I0XG   THE   CITIES   OF  BASH  AX.  37 

cities  or  towns,  as  Si'a,  Deii*  es  Siimeij,  Suleim,  'Atil,  Su- 
weideh,  Riniet  el  Hazim,  Walgha,  and  others,  all  within  a 
distance  of  half  an  hour  to  two  hours  from  it.  There 
could  not  be  a  more  appropriate  phrase  than  "  Kenath 
mth  her  daughter  towns"  (Numb,  xxxii.,  42 ;  I.  Chron.  ii., 
23),  which  is  applied  to  this  ancient  city  in  the  midst 
of  a  large  group  of  smaller,  but  still  important  places. 
The  Wady  Kunawat  is  here  a  deep  ra\'ine,  with  sides,  at 
some  points,  of  perpendicular  rock.  Just  at  the  brow  of 
the  hill  it  makes  an  elbow,  on  the  inside  of  which  is  an 
ancient  castle  of  large,  bevelled  stones,  which  have  the 
full,  rough  face.  On  the  opposite  bank,  where  are  the 
principal  remains  of  the  city,  there  may  have  existed  an- 
other castle.  The  wady,  when  diy, —  or,  in  fact,  at  any 
time, — would  fm-uish  an  excellent  secret  path  for  an 
enemy  to  climb  to  the  plain  above,  and  these  castles 
would  guard  both  the  ravine  and  the  region  about  it  on 
either  side. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  this  important  point  was  occupied 
in  the  earliest  history  of  the  country.  The  Assyrian 
records  mention  a  place  called  Irkanata.  This  was  in  the 
time  of  Shalmanezer  II.,  B.  C.  860-825,  and  the  record  is 
speaking  of  Carchemish,  Hamath,  Damascus,  the  Ai'abians, 
Ammon,  etc.,  and  the  resemblance  between  this  name  and 
Kenath  is  at  least  interesting. 

A  short  distance  to  the  east  of  this  ancient  castle  there 
is  a  round  Roman  tower  veiy  well  preserved.  Here  char- 
acteristic Roman  architecture  and  that  of  a  much  earlier 
period  can  be  studied  side  by  side.  This  is  a  fair  sample 
of  these  round  towers  in  the  Lejah,  to  which  reference 
has  been  made  under  Khubab,  measurements  of  one  of 
which  were  given  from  Rev.  "W.  Wright. 

About  ninety  feet  below  the  castle,  in  the  elbow  just 
referred  to,  and  at   the  bottom   of  the  wady,  there  is  a 


38 


EAST  OF  THE  JOBBAN. 


singular  structure,  which  may  have  been  an  elegant  public 
bath.  A  small  stream  flows  near  and  behind  it,  thi-ough 
an  underground  passage  which  I  easily  followed  for  some 
distance.     The  water  from  this  stream  was  designed  to 


Temple  at   Kunavvat.     Antique   Head   at  the   Right. 

be  let  into  the  bath  at  pleasure.  A  small  portion  of  this 
beautiful  building  is  seen  in  the  lower  left-hand  corner 
of  the  illustration  just  given  (p.  36).  A  short  distance  below 
the  bath  the  stream  reaches  the  theatre,  with  which  in 
former  times  it  doubtless  had  some  important  connection. 
The  stone  trough  for  a  channel  still  remains,  and  the  water 
flowing  in  it  is  cool  and  fresh. 


A3I0NG   THE   CITIES   OF  B A  SHAN.  39 

This  theatre  was  built  by  an  officer  named  Marcus 
Oulpius  Lusias,  An  inscription  runs  the '  entire  length 
of  the  wall  at  the  back  of  the  arena.  It  is  sixty-six  feet 
long,  and  the  letters  are  of  great  size,  each  being  no  less 
than  six  inches  in  length.  Nine  rows  of  the  seats  in  this 
theatre  still  remain  in  good  preservation.  Those  who 
occupied  these  seats  could  not  only  witness  the  spectacle 
before  them,  but  could  also  look  out  many  miles  on  to 
the  Hauran  plain  and  far  away  to  the  summit  of 
Hermon,  and  enjoy  a  prospect  of  unusual  extent  and 
interest. 

Every  one  who  has  visited  Kunawat  is  amazed  at  the 
number  and  variety  of  the  ruined  buildings,  castles,  tem- 
ples, chm-ehes,  cathedral,  convents,  theatre,  bath,  palaces, 
reservoii's,  underground  apartments  or  vaidts,  costly  tombs, 
and  still  others  which  have  never  been  fuUy  examined, 
and  perhaps  never  can  be  sufficiently  to  indicate  the  use 
of  them  all.  We  present  illustrations  of  two  of  the  Kuna- 
wat temples,  the  first  being  a  fine  specimen  of  the  Roman 
"prostyle,"  i.  e.,  a  temple  with  four  columns  in  front. 
The  "  pronaos  "  is  the  part  in  front  of  the  "  naos,"  and  the 
"naos"  or  "cella"is  the  chamber  of  the  temple  supposed 
to  be  the  pecidiar  habitation  of  the  deity  whose  statue 
it  usually  contained.  The  beautiful  Corinthian  columns 
in  front,  which  are  about  forty-five  feet  in  height,  are  well 
preserved.  A  fine  antique  head  was  found  here  and  placed 
in  position  to  be  photographed  with  the  temple,  and 
appears  on  the  right  of  the  picture. 

The  second*  is  of  what  is  called  a  "peripteral"  temple, 
i.  e.,  one  surrounded  by  columns  only  a  few  of  which 
remain  standing.  It  is  situated  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
west  of  Kunawat,  and  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and 
striking  objects  in  the   Hauran  when    seen    as    one    ap- 

*  See  cut  at  head  of  this  chapter. 


40 


EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 


proaches  it  from  either  the  west  or  the  north.  The  portico 
faced  the  east,  and  consisted  of  a  double  row  of  Corinthian 
columns,  six  in  each  row.  The  temple  stands  on  a 
platform  about  twelve  feet  high,  beneath  which  are 
vaults.  The  bases  of  the  columns  had  inscriptions, 
most  of  which  are  now  mutilated  and  nearly  or  quite 
illegible. 

Dr.  J.  L.  Porter  found  here  what  he  calls  "  a  colossal 
head  of  Astarte,  sadly  broken,  *  *  *  with  the  cres- 
cent moon,  which  gave  to 
this  goddess  the  name  car- 
naim,  'two-horned,'  still  on 
her  brow "  ("  Giant  Cities 
of  Bashan,"  p.  43).  Mr. 
Tyrwhitt  Drake  secui'ed  a 
stone  at  this  place  which 
was  thought  to  be  part  of 
an  altar,  upon  two  oppo- 
site sides  of  which  were 
the  features  of  Baal  and 
Astarte,  "  boldly  cut  in 
high  relief  upon  the  closest 
basalt,  with  foliage,  show- 
ing the  artistic  hand" 
("  Unexplored  Sja-ia,"  ii.,  p. 
166).  This  fine  relic  was 
taken  to  England,  and  de- 
posited at  the  Anthropo- 
logical Institute.  Copies  of 
the   heads  are  here  repro- 

Heads  of  Baal   and   Astarte.   [From  "Un-  -,  •, 

explored   Syria."]  QUCCQ. 

Besides  these,  there  still 
remains  in  the  ruins  one  badly  mutilated  antique  head,  of 
which  we  took  a  photograph,  which  is  given  on  the  next 
page. 


AMONG   THE   CITIES   OF  B A  SHAN. 


41 


'  A  man  is  spanning  it  vnth  his  arms,  to  indicate  its  size. 
There  appears  to  be  something  like  a  crown  on  its  head, 
and  below  that  some  ornament  around  the  brow,  which 
falls  over  the  temple.  The  nose  is  gone  ;  and  indeed  most 
of  the  representations  of  the  human  head  and  face  in 
Moslem  countries  have  been  mutilated. 


Still  another  head,  with  rays,  was  found  by  us  at  'Atil, 
in  which  the  rays  taper  to  points,  while  m  tne  Kunawat 
head,  as  given  by  Mr.  Drake,  they  terminate  in  blunt 
ends. 

I  found,  also,  among  the  ruins  here,  a  bullock's  head, 
finely  carved  upon  the  side  of  a  stone,  which  evidently 
formed  part  of  an  altar.     The  width  of  the  stone  is  seven 


42 


EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 


inclies,  and  its  present  height  is  thirteen  inches.  On  the 
right  side  are  a  grape-leaf  and  a  cluster  of  grapes.  In  the 
top  of  the  bullock's  head  was  the  fire-])ox,  which,  no 
doubt,  had  a  movable  cover.  This  interesting  relic 
I  secured  for  a  few  cents,  and  brought  with  me  to 
America. 


BMilock's   Head  on   an   Altar  of   Basalt,   from   Kunawat. 


Specimens  of  Ornamental   Work   in  the   Hauran   Architecture, 
From   Si'a.      [De  Vogue.] 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Among  the  Cities  of  Bashan. — Continued. 

Si'a,  a  subiu'b  of  Kunawat.  Eich  ornamentation  on  its  buildings. 
Greek  and  Ai'amaic  inscriptions.  Monument  of  Herod  tlie  Great. 
'Atil.  Its  temples.  Sheikh's  house.  Striking  contrast.  Suweideh. 
Pine  ''monument  of  Khamrath,  built  by  her  husband."  Belongs 
to  the  first  century,  A.  D.,  or  to  an  earlier  period.  'Ary.  Forty 
ruined  cities  and  towns  in  sight.  Image  of  Dusares,  the  Nabathean 
Bacchus.  Salchad.  A  Gibraltar  in  the  desert.  In  the  mouth  of 
an  extinct  crater.  Palm-tree  and  lions.  A  city  of  King  Og. 
Salchah  of  the  Old  Testament.  Bozrah.  Mentioned  by  Jeremiah  ? 
Visited  by  Mohammed.  Origen  and  Beryllus.  Ancient  cathedral. 
Vast  reservoirs  and  cisterns.  Theatre  and  inscriptions.  Ecclesi- 
astical cities  of  the  province  of  Ai'abia,  with  a  list  of  those  that 
have  been  identified. 


ABOUT  twenty-five  minutes  from  Kunawat  is  a  ruined 
town  called  Si'a,  which  claims  our  attention  because 
it  is  connected  with  the  history  of  Herod  the  G-reat.  It  is 
almost  one  of  the  suburbs  of  the  great  city  of  Kunawat, 


44 


EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 


and  its  situation  is  charming.  The  foundations  of  the 
public  huildings  are  so  completely  covered  by  fallen  stones 
that  I  found  it  impossible  to  plan  or  measure  anything 
accurately.  All  styles  of  architecture  prevailed  here, — the 
Ionic,  the  Doric,  the  Corinthian,  and  the  Composite, — 
and  some  of  the  finest  specimens  of  sculptured  work  in 
the  HaUran  exist  among  these  ruins.  Vines,  grape-leaves, 
and  clusters  of  grapes,  fig-leaves,  eagles,  doves,  and 
birds  of  several  other  kinds,  bullocks,  rams  tied  together 
with  a  wreath  or  garland,   lions,   wild  goats,    dogs   with 


Specimens  of   Hauran   Architecture.      From  Si'a.      [De  Vogiie.] 

coUars,  horses  equipped  for  battle  or  the  chase,  equestrian 
statues,  male  and  female  heads,  many  mythological  figures, 
and  stni  other  objects,  are  represented  here  in  elegant  and 
delicately  sculptiu-ed  work,  carved  upon  the  hard  basaltic 
rock. 

We  present  a  few  illustrations  of  the  figures  and  carving 
referred  to,  taken  from  De  Vogiie. 


AMONG   THE   CITIES  OF  B A  SHAN.  45 

The  Greek  and  Aramaic  inscriptions  fonnd  here  have 
been  given  in  the  respective  works  of  De  Yogiie  and  Wad- 
dington.  These  gentlemen  were  so  fortnnate  as  to  bring- 
to  light  a  genuine  record  of  Herod  the  Great,  which  M. 
Waddington  has  restored  as  follows  (No.  2364) : 

BaJctAti  'Kpox^ei  Kvpici)  '0(3aLoaTog  liaodov  edrjna  rbv  dv- 
dfjidvra  ralq  ifialg  da7Tdvai[^g. 

That  is:  I,  Obaesatus,  son  of  Saodns,  have  set  up  this 
statue  of  King  Herod,  oui'  ruler,  at  my  own  expense. 

This  was  found  on  the  base  of  a  statue  in  front  of  a 
temple  and  at  the  right  of  the  entrance.  One  foot  still 
adhered  to  the  base.  I  will  quote  what  M,  Waddington 
says  of  it :  "  The  Herod  of  our  text  is  Herod  the  Great, 
chief  of  the  Idumean  dynasty,  because  no  other  prince  of 
this  name  ever  ruled  over  Batanea.  In  fact,  after  his  death 
this  province  was  assigned  to  the  territory  of  his  son 
Philip,  and  still  later  it  belonged  successively  to  the  two 
Agrippas.  This  monument,  therefore,  is  the  earliest  in 
which  Herod  is  mentioned,  and  the  word  Jcurio  (Kvpico) 
shows  that  it  was  erected  during  his  life.  It  is  not  impos- 
sible that  the  monuments  of  Si'a  were  erected  by  members 
of  the  colony  of  three  thousand  Idumeans,  which  Herod 
established  on  the  border  of  Trachonitis,  to  insure  the 
peace  of  the  country,  troubled  as  it  was  by  the  revolt  of 
the  barbarian  inhabitants  ;  and  I  could  easily  be  persuaded' 
that  the  colony  was  placed  at  Kanatha  (Kunawat),  that 
position  being  central  and  well  adapted  for  commanding 
the  country  (Josephus,  'Antiquities,'  xvi.,  9,  2). 

"  An  interesting  circumstance  is  connected  with  the  dis- 
covery of  this  monument.  When  the  inscription  was 
brought  to  light,  in  the  midst  of  the  debris,  we  cherished 
the  hope  of  recovering  the  statue,  and  of  enriching  the 


46  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Louvre  with  a  monument  of  unusual  interest,  an  authentic 
bust  of  King  Herod.  But  this  hope  we  were  soon  obliged 
to  relinquish.  The  other  bases  which  we  had  discovered 
were  still  in  their  places  about  the  enclosure,  and  the 
statues  which  had  occupied  them  were  lying  in  fragments 
over  the  pavement,  shattered  in  the  general  downfall  of  the 
building ;  that  of  the  statue  of  Herod,  however,  to  which 
one  foot  still  adhered,  had  been  torn  by  violence  from  its 
place,  and  the  statue  itself  had  been  broken  into  a  thousand 
fragments.  This  destruction,  evidently  the  work  of  men, 
was  doubtless  caused  by  the  early  Christians,  who  wished 
to  avenge  the  massacre  of  the  innocents  on  the  image  of 
the  murderer  "  (No.  2364). 

The  temple  referred  to  was  dedicated  to  Baal  Samin,  the 
god  of  heaven,  and  De  Vogiie,  in  plate  ii.,  has  given  a  plan 
of  it,  with  some  of  the  external  details.*  In  the  Aramaic 
inscription  found  here,  Baal  Samin  is  written  without  the 
1,  or  simply  Ba  Samin. 

In  'Atil,  which  is  one-half,  or  possibly  three-quarters,  of 
an  hour  from  Kunawat,  in  a  south-west  direction,  we  find 
inscriptions  in  honor  of  the  Emperors  Caraealla  and  Geta, 
also  of  the  deities  Cronos,  Vasseathos,  and  Theandrios,  and 
a  centurion  of  the  Third  Cyreniac  Legion  is  likewise  men- 
tioned. The  inscription  on  the  base  of  the  corner  pillar  on 
the  left  of  the  temple,  as  here  represented,  is  dated  in  the 
fourteenth  year  of  the  Emperor  Antoninus  Pius,  which  cor- 
responds to  A.  D.  151.  On  the  pillars  and  on  the  two 
Corinthian  columns  between  them,  there  were  brackets 
for  statues.  On  the  right,  a  portion  of  an  arched  window 
appears,  and  the  ornamentation  is  elegant.  The  material 
is  the  usual  basalt  rock  of  the  Lejah.  Arabs  or  Druzes  have 
fitted  up  these  ruins  for  a  dwelling,  and  this,  at  present,  is 
*  These  appear  in  the  preceding  illustrations. 


AMONG   THE   CITIES   OF  BASHAN. 


47 


the  residence  of  the  sheikh.  Vines  grow  in  the  common 
mnd  which  he  has  used  as  mortar,  and  the  contrast 
between  the  present  and  the  remote  past,  as  here  pre- 
sented, is  very  striking. 


Temple  at  'AtTI. 

This  temple  stands  in  the  sonth  part  of  the  town ;  but 
there  was  another  on  the  north  side,  which  has  been  more 
completely  ruined.  In  the  field  or  garden  adjoining  the 
temple,  of  which  a  picture  is  given,  we  found  the  remains 
of  an  equestrian  statue,  and  also  one  of  a  female  bust  or 
head,  with  the  crescent,  and  another  with  rays  above  it. 
This  head,  with  rays,  is  unlike  that  which  Mr.  Drake 
found  at  Kunawat.  In  the  Kunawat  head,  the  rays  termi- 
nate, as  we  have  seen,  in  blunt  ends,  while  in  the  'Atil 
head  they  taper  to  points.  They  differ  also  in  some  other 
respects.     But  the  fact  that  a  head  is  represented  with  rays 


48  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

is  notMng  remarkable  and  need  have  no  connection  with 
divinity,  for  they  are  very  common  on  some  of  the  heads 
of  both  men  and  women  that  appear  on  ancient  coins. 

With  regard  to  Greek  inscriptions  here,  I  copied  five  not 
found  in  Waddington's  work,  but  most  of  them  are  frag- 
mentary. One,  which  the  gentleman  just  referi'ed  to  had 
indicated  as  being  in  front  of  the  temple  which  is  on  the 
north  side  of  the  town,  I  could  not  find ;  but  on  a  tomb 
that,  within  two  years  past  fi.  e.,  two  years  previous  to 
1875),  had  been  built  directly  in  the  entrance  to  this  temple, 
I  discovered  two  or  three  G-reek  letters  where  the  plastering 
had  fallen  off ;  and  as  the  people  of  the  village  who  were 
with  me  did  not  hesitate  to  tear  off  the  rest  of  the  plaster- 
ing, I  fortunately  found  and  verified  the  inscription  I  was 
searching  for.  The  workmen  who  built  the  tomb  had  torn 
down  a  portion  of  the  front  wall  of  the  temple  to  get  stones 
for  that  purpose,  and  among  them  they  had  taken  the  one 
on  which  was  the  inscription. 

Suweideh,  about  five  miles  south  from  Kunawat,  was  one 
of  the  most  extensive  and  beautiful  towns  in  the  Hauran. 
It  is  now  a  mass  of  ruins,  and  is  occupied  by  only  a  few 
families.  It  had  a  vast  basilica,  several  reservoirs,  of 
which  one  was  three  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  and  an 
inscription  records  the  fact  that  the  Emperor  Nerva  Trajan 
built  here  a  nymphgeum  and  an  aqueduct.  The  inscrip- 
tions of  the  place  go  back  to  the  first  centmy  of  our  era, 
or  to  the  time  of  Herod  the  Great.  Outside  the  town,  on 
the  north,  there  is  a  strange  monument,  thirty-six  feet 
square  and  thirty  feet  high.  On  each  side  are  six  Doric 
semi-columns,  and  between  the  columns  are  carved  in 
relief  various  military  emblems,  such  as  coats  of  mail,  hel- 
mets, and  shields.  This  structure  is  a  tomb,  or  a  part  of  a 
tomb,  for  above  it  was  once  a  pyramid,  of  which  only  the 


AMONG   THE   CITIES  OF  BASH  AN. 


49 


lower  courses  remain.  Ou  the  monument  is  an  inscription 
in  Aramaic  (Palmwene),  accompanied  by  a  translation  in 
Greek,  which  reads  :  "  Monument  of  Khamrath,  wliich  her 
husband  built  for  her." 

The  name  of  the  place  is  certain,  because  it  occurs  in 
two  inscriptions  as  Soadonen  and  Soadeeneis,  these  letters 
representing  the  two  forms  in  which  the  word  appears.  It 
was  an  episcopal  city,  and  its  ancient  name  is  pretty  weU 
determined  to  have  been 
Dionysias,  belonging  to 
the  province  of  Arabia. 

About  two  hours  a 
little  west  of  south  from 
Suweideh,  situated  ou  a 
slight  elevation  in  the 
plain,  is  'Ary,  one  of  the 
important  villages  of 
this  region.  It  has  a 
good  many  ruins,  but 
the}'  are  not  of  special 
importance.  From  the 
top  of  one  of  the  highest 
houses,  an  intelligent 
Druze  pointed  out  to  me 
over  forty  ruined  cities 
and  towns  scattered  on 
the  great  Bashan  plain, 
many  of  which  he  called 
by  name.  I  present  here 
a  copy  of  an  image  which 
I  found  sculptured  upon  a  stone  at  this  place.  The  whole 
length  of  the  figure  is  only  nineteen  inches,  and  the  width 
is  nine  inches,  from  elbow  to  elbow.  It  is  in  relief,  but  the 
3 


\\ 


Ancient     Sculpture    found    at    'Ary.        Possibly 
Representation  of  the  Deity  Dusares  or  Bacchus 


50  EAST  OF   THE  JORDAN. 

surface  of  the  entire  figure  is  perfectly  flat.  Three  different 
persons,  who  have  paid  considerable  attention  to  the  antiqui- 
ties of  Western  Asia,  and  to  whom  I  have  shown  the  pict- 
ure, think  it  may  be  Phoenician,  or  as  ancient  as  some  of 
the  Phoenician  remains.  Bacchus,  under  the  name  Dusares, 
was  extensively  worshipped  by  the  Nabatheans  in  the  coun- 
try east  of  the  Jordan,  and  it  is  possible  that  this  Nabathean 
deity  may  be  represented  by  this  rude  sculpture. 

The  most  striking  feature  of  Salchad — which  has, 
besides,  eight  hundred  or  more  well-preserved  stone  houses 
— is  its  great  castle,  which,  indeed,  is  one  of  the  most 
prominent  landmarks  in  all  the  Bashan  plain.  It  is  built 
in  the  mouth  of  an  extinct  crater,  on  a  conical  swell  or  rise 
composed  of  porous  lava-rock.  The  waUs  of  the' castle  are 
from  eighty  to  one  hundred  feet  high.  As  the  crater  is 
bowl-shaped,  there  is  a  deep  natural  moat  entirely  around 
the  castle,  and  the  fortress  is  approached  by  a  bridge  over 
this  moat.  The  hill  itself  is  three  hundred  feet  high, 
and  the  rim  of  the  crater  consists  of  ashes  and  cinders, 
while  near  the  foot  of  the  mound  the  volcanic  rock 
appears.  The  interior  of  this  castle  is  a  perfect  labjTinth 
of  halls,  galleries,  chambers,  and  vaults,  which  are  now  in 
a  very  confused  and  ruined  state.  There  is  a  long  Arabic 
inscription  here,  and  also  several  in  Greek,  and  on  the 
stones  many  masons'  marks  appear.  There  are  a  good 
many  busts,  Hons,  eagles,  and  other  figures  sculptured  upon 
the  walls.  Near  the  gate  are  two  colossal  lions,  facing  each 
other,  and  between  them  is  a  palm-tree. 

Among  the  inscriptions  found  here,  several  are  dated  as 
foUows :  A.  D.  252,  345,  351,  369,  377,  392,  497,  601,  633, 
and  665.  Waddington  calls  attention  to  the  last  two  dates, 
because  the  first  (633)  is  only  four  years  before  the  Moslem 
con(j[uest,  and  the  other  (665)  much  later.     "  During  the 


AMONG   THE   CITIES   OF  BASHAN. 


51 


first  century  of  the  Moslem  rule,  there  would  remain  a  good 
many  Christians  in  the  remote  and  parched  districts,  little 
calculated  to  excite  the  greed  of  conquerors  who  had  before 


'^^^ff^^'-'^^'^f 


^^,     ^l'--A*^- 


-  ^ 


From  the  Castle  at  Salchad       Exterior  Wall   near  the    Main    Entrance. 

them  so  many  rich  provinces  to  overrun,  and  it  is  natural 
to  suppose  that  they  would  preserve  for  some  years  then* 
customs  and  their  traditional  era"  (No.  1997).  This 
remark  is  made  by  him  in  reply  to  Wetzstein,  who  thought 
the  last  date  should  be  considered  of  the  Christian  era,  and 
not  of  the  Bostrian,  in  which  case  we  should  have  A.  D. 
560,  instead  of  665. 

Several  Aramaic  inscriptions  have  been  recovered  from 
these  ruins,  one  of  which  records  the  erection  of  a  mon- 
ument to  the  goddess  Allath,  of  whom  De  Vogiie  says 
that  "  she  had  at  Salchad,  or  in  its  suburbs,  a  temple  or 
a  college  of  priests ;  moreover,  her  presence  in  the  com- 


52 


EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 


position  of  proper  names,  and  especially  of  the  character- 
istic name  Wahballatli,  indicates  the  place  which  she 
occupies  in  the  minds  of  the  people''  ("Aramaic  Inserip- 


CasTle  at  Salchad 


n   the    Mo   th    of  an    Extinct   C  ater 


tions,"  pp.  109,  110).  The  inscription  now  referred  to, 
which  is  Nabathean,  gives  the  name  of  the  place  as  Salkhad 
(mV::).  The  Arabs  at  present  write  it  Salkhat.  The  old 
Arab  geographers  write  it  Sarkhad.  These  are,  however, 
unimportant  variations,  and  of  the  identity  of  the  place 
and  name  with  the  Biblical  Salchah  there  can  be  no  doubt. 
Salchah  was  one  of  the  important  cities  of  the  kingdom  of 
Og,  which  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Hebrews.  In 
defining  Og's  territory,  we  meet  with  the  phrase,  "  all 
Bashan  unto  Salchah "  (Deut.  iii.,  10 ;  see  Josh,  xii.,  5 ; 
xiii.,  11 ;  I.  Chron.  v.,  11).  The  last  reference  shows  that 
the  place  was  on  or  near  the  eastern  border  of  the  country, 


AMONG    THE   CITIES   OF  BASH  AN.  53 

and  apparently  on  the  dividing  line  between  Gad  and  half 
Mauasseh.  But  of  its  history  subsequent  to  the  conquest 
by  Moses  and  Joshua  we  have  almost  nothing.  Its  impor- 
tance as  a  frontier  fortress  must  always  have  been  great, 
and  in  my  judgment  there  are  good  reasons  for  regard- 
ing it  as  the  fortress  captured  by  Judas  Maccabeus  after  he 
had  taken  Bosora,  the  modern  Busrah  (I.  Mace,  v.,  28-34). 

The  view  from  the  summit  of  this  castle  is  one  of  the 
most  commanding  in  aU  that  region.  The  eye  sweeps 
over  a  vast  plain,  till  Mount  Hermon  is  reached,  far  in  the 
north,  while  in  the  south  the  prospect  fades  away  into  the 
gi'eat  desert. 

Eastern  Palestine  possessed  at  least  three  places  bearing 
the  name  of  Bozrah.  One  of  these  was  in  Edom,  and  is 
supposed  to  be  correctly  identified  with  Buseireh,  to  the 
south  of  Tufileh,  the  Tophel  of  Deut.  i.,  1.  Another  is 
mentioned  by  Jeremiah  as  one  of  the  cities  of  the  land  of 
Moab  (xlviii.,  24).  Unless  this  place  is  identical  with  the 
Roman  Bostra  of  the  Hauran,  which  some  writers  have 
thought,  the  latter  is  not  mentioned  in  the  Bible.  The 
name,  however,  is  the  same,  i.  e.,  Bozrah,  and  there  are 
signs  among  the  ruins  of  its  dating  from  a  high  antiquity. 
In  the  Jerusalem  Talmud,  the  name  is  speUed  Botzrah, 
n-isi3,  and  it  is  called  the  boundary  of  Trachonitis 
("Shibiith"  vi,,  1,  GemaraJ,  and  a  Palmyrene  inscription 
gives  the  same  orthography,  with  the  exception  of  the 
final  letter  alejjJi  for  he,  Nisa  for  m::a  (De  Vogiie,  No. 
22).  The  Semitic  name  probably  existed  long  before  the 
place  came  to  be  mentioned  in  the  Greek  and  Latin 
languages.  In  A.  D.  105,  the  Romans  raised  this  place 
into  a  colony,  and  subsequently  for  many  centuries  it 
ranked  as  one  of  the  most  important  cities  of  the  East 
as  a  centre  of  commerce,  as  the  capital  of  Arabia,  and  as 


54 


EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 


the  seat  of  an  archbishop,  to  whom  at  one  time  thirty-three 
bishops  were  subject. 

A  kind  of  special  interest  attaches  to  the  place  in  the 
fact  that  Mohammed,  when  a  young  man  and  a  plain 
travelling  merchant,  visited  this  city  in  the  employ  of 
a  certain  widow  of  means,  named  Ivhadijah,  who  after- 
wards became  his  wife.  There  is  a  tradition  that,  on  one 
of  these  visits  to  Bozrah,  he  became  acquainted  with  the 
Chiistian  monk  Boheii-a,  who  accompanied  Mohammed  to 
Mecca,  and  became  his  instructor  while  wiiting  the  Koran. 
The  place  is  interesting,  further,  as  the  home  of  Beryllus, 
who,  in  the  middle  of  the  third  centiuy  of  our  era,  was 
distinguished  by  the  elegance  of  his  writings.     He  was  for 

a  long  time  one  of  the 
champions  of  the  Or- 
thodox faith,  but  after- 


n 

H 

1 

F^ 

1 

n^-6.80-.  1  E  1 

i 9.20— J-^ 

T 

r           1 

[H    '^  // 

31  j 

i 

■     -S      H 

^ 

J 

l»'i*tiifa- 

'i.jj— '•'■"-^ 

wards  fell  into  heresy, 
from  which,  however, 
he  was  restored  by  the 
friendly  efforts  of  the 
eminent  Origen.  One 
or  more  councils  were 
held  here,  over  which 
Origen  presided. 

With  regard  to  early 
Christian  architecture, 
this  place  enjoys,  with 
Edhr'a,  the  honor  of 
possessing  one  of  the 
two  oldest  churches  in 
the  Hauran.  That  at 
Edhr'a  dates  from  A.  D.  510,  while  this  at  Bozrah  is  but 
two  years  later,  or  A.  D.  512.  We  present,  from  De  Vogiie, 
a  plan  of  this  ancient  and  interesting  cathedral. 


Cathedral  at  Bozrah.     [From   De  Vogu&] 


% 


(     fii 


■Siwp''  f ':  ipujcari 


iiiiiSli' 


AMONG   THE   CITIES   OF  B A  SHAN.  55 

Bozrah  also  has  tlie  honor  of  having  a  new  system  of 
reckoning  time,  dated  from  it,  and  the  Bostrian  era,  which 
commenced  in  A.  D.  105,  was  for  several  centuries  in  use  in 
a  large  portion  of  the  country  east  of  the  Jordan.  And — 
to  mention  only  one  other  fact,  of  great  interest,  however 
— it  is  in  Bozrah  and  vicinity  that  tradition  has  located  the 
country  of  Job. 

This  city  had  ample  provision  for  a  supply  of  water  in  its 
immense  reservoirs  and  numerous  cisterns.  Beneath  the 
castle  there  are  cisterns  which  contain  water  enough  to  last 
the  garrison  for  ten  years,  even  if  it  should  not  rain  dui'ing 
that  time.  On  the  east  of  the  city  there  is  a  reservoir  three 
hundred  and  ninety  feet  square  and  fifteen  feet  deep.  The 
depth  was  no  douht  gi-eater  formerly,  as  much  debris  has 
accumulated  on  the  bottom,  especially  near  the  walls.  Very 
many  of  the  stones  in  the  walls  of  this  reservoir'  have 
masons'  marks  upon  them — if  they  are  such;  but  there 
were  only  four  varieties,  as  follows :  /^  was  the  mark  on 
those  of  the  north  wall ;  J*  on  those  of  the  east  wall ;  O  on 
those  of  the  south  wall ;  ^  on  those  of  the  west  wall.  In 
the  west  wall  I  counted  upwards  of  one  hundred  and  sixty 
stones  which  had  this  mark.  Many  of  the  stones,  however, 
had  no  mark  at  all.  These  characters  strongly  resemble 
Aramaic  letters  of  the  seventh  or  eighth  centuiy  B.  C. 
Another  reservoii",  on  the  south  side  of  the  city  near  the 
castle,  is  four  hundred  and  twenty  feet  wide  by  five  hun- 
di*ed  and  thii'ty  feet  long  and  twenty  feet  deep.  The  wall 
of  it  is  twelve  feet  thick.  Of  this  an  illustration  is  given. 
The  mass  of  ruins  about  it  is  also  seen,  and  the  taU  build- 
ing is  a  mosque.  In  the  distance  the  Hauran  Mountains 
appear,  and  Salchad  castle  is  a  prominent  object  on  the 
eastern  horizon. 

On  the  west  of  the  city  there  was  formerly  another  and 
much  larger  reservoir ;  the  waU  running  north  and  south 


36 


EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 


at  the  west  end  still  remains,  and  is  five  hundred  and  sixtj' 
feet  long.  From  east  to  west  the  wall  can  be  distinctly 
traced  one  thousand  and  fifty  feet,  and  it  probaT)ly  extended 


Anteroom   Connected   with  the  Theatre  at   Bozrah. 

in  the  same  direction  two  hundred  or  three  hundred  feet 
more. 

I  would  also  call  attention  to  the  great  bevelled  stones  in 
the  foundation  of  the  castle,  some  of  which  are  fifteen, 
twenty,  and  twenty-four  feet  in  length. 

In  this  castle  there  is  a  large  theatre,  around  the  upper 
platform  of  which  ran  a  Doric  colonnade.  On  each  side  of 
the  stage  belonging  to  this  theatre  were  anterooms,  or  side- 
chambers,  whose  exteriors  were  adorned  with  Doric  pilas- 
ters corresponding  to  the  colonnade  about  the  upper  tier  of 
seats.  I  present  an  illustration  of  one  of  these  chambers, 
not  only  to   show  the  excellent  taste    and  workmanship 


AMONG    THE   CITIES  OF  B A  SHAN. 


57 


displayed,  but  that  one 
may  see  how  perfectly 
it  has  been  preserved, 
in  spite  of  the  sieges, 
earthquakes,  and  gene- 
ral devastation  of  eight- 
een centuries. 

The  inscriptions  that 
have  been  found  here 
are  numerous  and  im- 
portant, and  I  copied  a 
number  that  are  not 
given  in  Waddington's 
valuable  and  thorough 
work.  Old  buildings 
are  constantly  falling 
down,  and  the  few  in- 
habitants of  the  place 
are  removing  stones  for 
one  pui'pose  and  an- 
other, and  in  this  way 
new  inscriptions  are 
frequently  brought  to 
light. 

Tlie  city  was  four  or, 
perhaps,  five  miles  in 
circumference,  and  is 
now  in  utter  ruin.  Two 
streets  cross  each  other 
near  the  centre  of  the 
town,  one  running- 
north  and  south,  and 
the  other  east  and  west. 
Both  these  streets  were 


58 


EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 


wide,  and  along  them  were  situated  many  elegant  public 
buildings.  The  remains  of  two  temples, — if  they  were 
such, — which  stood  on  opposite  corners  at  the  point  where 
these  great  streets  intersected,  are  here  given. 

The  material  of  which  the  city  was  built  was  the  usual 
basalt  of  the  Hauran,  and  consequently  the  ruins  have  a 
black  appearance  when  seen  from  a  distance.  The  to"\vu 
stands  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  and  fertile  plain,  and  there  is 
no  natural  reason  why  it  should  not  become  again  an 
important  centre  of  civilized  life. 

It  will  be  of  interest  to  present  here  a  list  of  cities 
belonging  to  the  ecclesiastical  province  of  Arabia,  which 
have  several  times  been  referred  to,  and  of  which  Bostra 
was  the  capital : 


Hierocles,  Ivi. 

Adra. 

Adrassus. 

Bostra. 

Canatha. 

Constantia. 

Dia. 

Dionysias. 

Gerasa. 

Hexacomia-come. 

HieropoHs. 

Majudus. 

Medaba. 

Neapobs. 

Nilacome. 

Phaena. 

Philadelphia. 

PhUippopolis. 


Wiltsch,  I,  p.  207. 

Adraa. 

Anitha  (marg.  Eutymia). 

Avara,  or  Aenos. 

Canatha. 

Chrysopohs  (Cyropolis). 

Constantia. 

Dionysias. 

Elanorum  (marg.  Neelorum). 

Erra,  or  Errha. 

Esbus. 

Gerasa. 

Maximianopolis. 

Medeba. 

Neapolis, 

Neve. 

Philadelphia, 

Philippopolis. 


AMONG   THE   CITIES  OF  B A  SHAN.  59 

In  Hierocles's  list  there  are  seventeen  places  mentioned, 
while  in  that  of  Wiltsch  there  are,  counting  Eutymia, 
eighteen.  But  combiniag  the  two  lists,  there  appear  to  be 
in  all  the  names  of  twenty-four  diii'erent  places.  Of  these 
the  following  have  been  identified : 

Adi'aa,  Edht^a.  Esbus,  Hashan. 

Aenos  (Phaenos),  Musmieh.  Gerasa,  Gerash. 
Bostra,  Bozrah,  Busrah.       Medaba,  Madciba. 
Canatha,  Kmiaivat.  Neelorum,  el  Mushennef 

Constantia,  Burali.  (Waddington,  No.  2217), 

Dionysias,  Suweideh.  Neve,  Nmva. 

Erra,  Sanamein.  Philadelphia,  Amman. 

Philippopolis,  Slmliba. 

Following  Wntsch's  list,  there  are  only  foiu-  places  not 
yet  identified. 

An  inscription  has  been  found  at  Kunawat,  containing 
the  name  of  Maximianopolis,  but  the  hints  are  not  sufficient 
to  enable  us  to  locate  the  place  with  any  certainty  (see 
Waddington,  No.  2361). 


CHAPTER   V. 
Hauean  Architectfre. 

This  study  one  of  great  importance.  Extracts  from  De  Vogiie. 
Two  fields  rich  in  early  Chi'istiau  remains, —  one  north,  the  other 
south  of  Damascus.  Their  preservation  remarkable.  Variety  and 
character  of  the  ruins.  Stone  the  only  building  material.  Skill 
and  ingenuity  of  the  architects.  The  arch  and  dome.  Pagan 
architecture  finely  developed  in  the  Christian  period.  These 
deserted  cities  ready  for  inhabitants.  Christian  symbols.  The 
Moslem  conquest  the  date  of  their  ruin.  Influence  of  the  Haurau 
style  of  architecture  on  the  West.  Comment  on  some  of  De 
Vogue's  remarks.  Signs  of  more  ancient  ruins.  Testimony  of 
the  cuneiform  inscriptions. 

THE  importance  of  the  ruins  in  Bashau,  as  thro"ndng 
light  on  the  history  of  architecture,  has  led  me  to 
devote  an  entire  chapter  to  tliis  subject,  and,  for  this 
purpose,  I  have  chosen  to  translate  extracts  from  the 
preface  to  De  Vogiie's  "  Syrie  Centrale :  Architecture  civ- 
ile et  religieuse  du  1*='  an  VII'*-""^  Siecle.  Paris,  1867."  The 
volume  consists  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  i)lates  in  quarto 
form,  with  twelve  pages  of  introduction,  whicli  comprises 
all  the  text.  The  work  is  costly,  and  not  easily  accessi- 
ble; hen<;e  the  reader  may  the  more  readily  indulge  me 
in  placing  before  him  in  this  manner  the  views  of  this 
well-known  scholar  upon  this  deeply  interesting  subject : 


HAUBAN  ABCHITECTUBE.  61 

"  The  Syrian  desert  is  uot  necessarily  a  barren  and 
sandy  plain,  destitute  of  vegetation  and  unfit  for  tiUage ; 
it  is,  properly  speaking,  the  region  overrun  by  nomads, 
and  laid  waste  by  their  flocks  and  herds.  When,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  neglect  of  the  Turkish  Government,  the 
tribes  invade  the  cultivated  territory,  the  population  and 
the  cultivation  disappear,  the  abandoned  villages  fall 
into  ruin,  the  fields  become  covered  with  a  parasite 
growth,  and  the  desert  triumphs;  but  the  moment  a 
strong  power,  and  one  more  observant  of  its  true  inter- 
ests, shall  take  the  place  of  the  present  administration, 
the  desert  will  recede  before  civilization. 

"  Of  tlie  three  zones  into  which  Syria  naturally  divides 
itself,  that  on  the  Mediterranean  coast  is  best  known, 
while  the  central  region,  stretching  far  to  the  north 
and  south  of  Damascus,  is  seldom  visited.  *  *  * 
This  abandonment  is  explained  by  the  nature  of  the 
country ;  the  current  of  European  travellers  is  not 
attracted  to  regions  that  are  reported  dangerous  or  inac- 
cessible, and  which  have  been  forsaken  l)y  theii*  inhalj- 
itants.  A  scattered  popidation  di.sputes  with  its  enemies 
the  meagre  productions  of  a  poorly  cultivated  soil;  con- 
stantly exposed  to  the  exactions  of  pashas  or  to  the 
depredations  of  nomads,  it  founds  notliing  durable  ;  it 
establishes  itself  temporarily  in  the  ruins  of  antiquity 
without  either  planting  or  building  anything  which  can 
retain  it  or  attach  it  to  the  soil  the  moment  it  becomes 
necessary  to  fly  before  an  invader. 

"  This  state  of  things  has  existed  practically  ever  since 
the  Mohammedan  invasion.  If  it  is  painful  to  the  Chris- 
tian and  civilized  observer,  it  offers  to  the  archaeologist 
an  unexpected  good  fortune ;  the  antiquary  forgets  for 
an  instant  the  miseries  of  the  present  in  contemplating 
the  splendors  of  the  past,  without  failing  to  demand   of 


62  EAST  OF  THE  J  OBI)  AN. 

the  ruins  a  lesson  for  the  future,  as  well  as  the  secret 
of  fallen  grandeur  and  decayed  prosperit3\ 

"  In  a  word,  while  on  the  coast  and  in  the  great  cen- 
tres of  the  interior,  ancient  monuments,  used  as  quarries, 
have  been  subjected  to  a  destruction  all  the  more  active 
in  proportion  as  the  prosperity  was  gi-eater,  in  the  cen- 
tral region,  on  the  contrary,  the  edifices  haT^e  been  saved 
from  ruin  by  neglect  and  misery.  Left  standing  here 
while  they  have  entirely  disappeared  in  other  parts  of 
Swia,  they  reveal  to  us  the  condition  of  that  province 
in  the  first  centuries  of  our  era,  just  as  geological  e\'i- 
dence  indicates  the  condition  of  the  physical  earth  before 
the  revolutions  which  have  modified  its  surface.  In 
regard  to  certain  points,  their  state  of  preservation  is 
truly  remarkable ;  the  hand  of  time,  less  destructive  than 
that  of  man  in  the  milder  climates,  hardly  affecting 
their  surface,  has,  however,  by  shght  changes,  added  the 
charm  of  the  picturesque  to  the  scientific  interest ;  except 
for  the  effect  of  earthquakes,  which  have  shaken  the 
walls,  the  edifices  Avould  often  lack  only  roofs  and  frame- 
work to  enable  us  to  contemplate  almost  unaltered  the 
spectacle  of  a  Swian  city  of  the  seventh  century. 

"  Two  countries  especially  present  the  archaeological 
phenomena  which  we  wish  to  point  out,  and  are  remark- 
able for  the  number  and  preservation  of  the  monuments — 
one  is  in  the  north  and  the  other  in  the  south,  at  the 
extremities  of  the  central  region  which  we  propose  to 
study.  That  in  the  south  is  the  Hauran,  a  modern  name 
under  which  we  shall  designate  briefly  the  ancient  prov- 
inces of  Auranitis,  Batanea,  Trachonitis,  and  a  part  of 
Iturea.     *     *     * 

"  That  in  the  north  is  the  group  of  mountains  situated 
in  a  great  triangle,  of  which  the  cities  Antioch,  Aleppo, 
and   Apamea  occupy  the    angles.      It   corresponds  to  a 


HA  UBAN  ABCHITECTUBE.  63 

part  of  the  ancient  provinces  of  Seleiicia,  Antiocliia,  and 
Chalcidice. 

''  It  is  on  these  two  countries  that  we  shall  concentrate 
our  attention,  with  all  the  more  interest  and  j^rofit  since, 
by  a  fortunate  circumstance,  the  chain  of  material  facts 
is  such  as  to  enable  us  to  fix  with  mathematical  exact- 
ness the  date  of  the  edifices  which  cover  the  soil.  The 
period  during  which  the  monuments  that  we  shall  study 
were  erected  extends  from  the  first  to  the  seventh  cen- 
tury of  our  era.  In  these  two  special  groups  of  the  north 
and  the  south  we  have  not  met  with  structures  of  a  more 
ancient  date;  either  the  anterior  edifices  disappeared  in 
the  great  fever  of  reconstruction  which  followed  the 
establishment  of  the  Roman  empire,  or  before  this  epoch 
a  low  state  of  ci\Tlization  had  produced  in  these  countries 
only  perishable  monuments.  The  last  hypothesis  is  the 
most  probable:  the  manners  of  the  desert  have  always 
been  the  same;  they  are  in  our  time  what  they  were  in 
the  days  of  Abraham  or  Alexander;  hence  we  are  able 
to  judge  by  what  we  see  to-day  of  the  conditions  under 
which  civilization  could  develop  itself  on  the  border  of 
the  desert.  Now,  the  first  of  these  conditions  is  security, 
the  protection  of  the  country  against  the  depredations  of 
the  nomads, — that  is  to  say,  the  existence  of  a  power 
strong  and  respected,  which  should  know  how  to  hold 
the  Bedawin  at  a  distance,  and  to  prevent  theu'  access 
to  the  cultivated  regions.  I  doubt,  however,  if  this  con- 
dition had  been  secured  liefore  the  intervention  of  the 
Romans  in  the  affairs  of  Syria.  The  Greek  administra- 
tion, established  by  the  successors  of  Alexander,  was 
powerless  at  a  certain  distance  from  the  sea-coast ;  but 
the  Romans,  on  the  contrary,  either  directly  or  by  theii* 
tributaries,  were  able  to  establish  order  in  the  desert. 
For  this  I  desire  no  further  proof  than  that  line  of  forti- 


64 


EAST   OF  THE  JOED  AX. 


fied  posts  with  which  the}'-  covered  their  eastern  frontier, 
and  of  which  we  have  oui'selves  verified  the  existence  ct 
many  points  adniirahly  chosen  for  compelling'  the  Bedawin 
to  submission ;   they  are   found  at  present   in  the  midst 


w^^fy-^W' 


g»  «■!  I  ilil  !lf  1*^     I 


T 


1  "/J 


i^. 


A//^/i//,y,'-^',-.,  .-|.-„  i-iiy'^l 


Windows  from  the   Hauran.     [From    De  Vogue,] 

of  the  desert,  at  a  distance  of  several  days'  joiuiiey  from 
the  cultivated  districts. 

^'A  more  direct  proof,  for  the  Hauran  group,  of  the 
barbarism  which  preceded  the  Roman  empire,  is  the 
fragment  of  a  decree  recovered  by  M.  Waddington  at 
Kunawat,  the  ancient  Kanatha,  in  which  King  Agrippa, 
reproaching  the  inhabitants  on  account  of  their  savage 
life,  appears  to  summon  them  t(r  a  civilized  existence. 

"  This  decree  is  the  point  of  departure  for  the  archi- 
tectural history  of  the  country;  and,  in  fact,  the  most 
ancient  monument  of  all  the  group  is  the  temple  of 
Siah,  built  at  the  very  gate  of  Kanatha,  under  the  two 
Agrippas :  an  edifice  of  a  strange  style,  in  which  the 
features  of  Greek  art  and  the  influence  of  Oriental  tra- 
ditions are  confounded.* 

*  See  plan  and  ornamentation  under  Si'a. 


HAURAN  ARCHITECTURE. 


65 


"  The  impulse,  once  given,  spread  rapidly ;  from  the 
end  of  the  first  century  the  country  was  settled  and 
huilt  up,  and  when,  in  A.  D.  105,  it  had  been  reduced  to 


1 


--^ 


Windows  and    Ddbrs   from   the   Haura"       TFrom    De  Voglie.] 


a  Roman  province,  the  introduction  of  the  imperial 
administration,  the  creation  of  colonies,  the  permanence 
of  the  legions,  and  the  reestablished  security,  imparted 
to  the  architectural  movement  an  activity  which  never 
slackened.  On  all  sides  arose  houses,  palaces,  baths,  tem- 
ples, theatres,  aqueducts,  and  triumphal  arches.  Cities 
sprang  out  of  the  ground  in  the  coiirse  of  a  few  years, 
with  that  regular  arrangement,  those  symmetrical  colon- 
nades which  characterize  cities  without  a  past,  and  which 
followed  the  uniform  law  of  all  the  towns  built  in  Sji'ia 
during  the  imperial  epoch.  The  style  of  all  these  edifices 
is  the  well-known  style  of  the  Roman  colonies,  /.  e.,   the 


66  EAST   OF   THE  JORDAN. 

Greek,  modified  by  certain  local  influences,  by  traditional 
art,  or  by  the  nature  of  the  materials  employed. 

"  The  special  feature  of  the  architecture  of  the  Hauran 
is  that  stone  is  the  only  material  used  in  its  construc- 
tion. The  country  does  not  produce  trees,  and  the  only 
available  rock  is  a  very  hard  basalt,  which  is  very  diffi- 
cult to  cut.  Reduced  to  this  single  material,  the  architects 
have  been  able  to  use  it  in  a  manner  that  is  siu'prising, 
and  at  the  same  time  satisfactory  for  all  the  needs  of  an 
advanced  civilization.  By  ingenious  combinations  which 
we  shall  study  with  much  detail,  they  were  able  to  con- 
struct temples  and  public  and  private  edifices  in  which 
everything  is  stone — the  walls,  the  joists,  the  doors,  the 
windows,  and  the  closets.  This  purely  material  necessity, 
by  calling  into  exercise  their  ingenuity  and  their  knowl- 
tsdge,  led  them  to  discover  new  principles.  Thus  the 
arch — the  only  possible  device  for  uniting  by  the  aid  of 
stones  two  distant  columns — became  the  principal  element 
in  building.  Series  of  parallel  arches,  supporting  the 
slabs  of  the  ceiling,  served  to  cover  the  most  of  their 
halls ;  and  when  the  space  to  be  covered  was  too  great 
for  the  length  of  the  ordinary  slabs,  recourse  was  had  to 
the  cupola. 

"  One  can  conceive  what  important  modifications  the 
introduction  of  these  elements  would  bring  about  in  the 
art  of  building.  The  arches,  by  their  pressure,  would 
require  exterior  buttresses  designed  to  have  a  counter- 
balancing effect ;  and  the  result  would  be  that  the  union 
of  arches,  slabs,  and  buttresses  would  form  a  kind  of 
framework  which  in  many  cases  would  reduce  the  lateral 
walls  to  the  simple  office  of  partitions,  and  admit  of  great 
independence  being  given  to  the  different  parts  of  one 
and  the  same  structure.  In  a  country  subject  to  the 
terrible    chances    of   earthquakes,    this    combination   was 


HAUBAN  ARCHITECTUBE. 


67 


excellent.  It  reappears  many  centuries  later,  with  the 
improvements  introduced  by  experience  and  art,  in  the 
Gothic  principles  of  our  French  cathedi'als.  Moreover, 
the  necessity   of  placing  a  cupola  on   a  square  plan  led 


Stone   House  in  the   Hauran.      [From    De  Vogue.] 

the  architects  to  discover  the  form  of  spherical  'sconces,' 
a  special  characteristic  of  the  style  called  Byzantine;  but 
being  unable  to  arrive  at  this  at  once,  they  approached 
it  by  a  series  of  tentative  methods,  which  it  is  interest- 
ing to  study.  Here  again  it  is  the  Hauran  which  will 
give  us  the  key  and  the  history  of  these  curious  attempts. 

"  It  was  under  the  early  Roman  empu'e,  and  for  the 
needs  of  a  pagan  society,  that  this  fruitful  and  original 
movement  had  its  birth.  When  that  society  and  the 
empire  itself  had  become  Christian,  the  movement,  far 
from  being  arrested,  was  continued  and  developed.  Not 
only  were  the  sanctuaries  of  paganism  transformed  into 
Christian  sanctuaries,  but  new  churches  were  erected 
adapted  to  the  new  worship ;  houses,  palaces,  and  tombs 
were  built;  even  entire  cities  were  founded.  But  in 
order  that  we  may  the  better  study  this  art  as  rejuve- 
nated by  Christianity,  it  is  necessary  to  leave  the  Hauran 
and  to  transport  ouiselves  to  the  northern  region,  into 
the  midst  of  that  gi'oup  of  monuments  of.  which  we  have 


68  EAST  OF  THE  JOBBAN. 

indicated  the  existence  between  Antiocli,  Aleppo,  and 
Apamea.  This  group  is  more  interesting-  than  that  of 
the  south,  because  it  is  more  homogeneous,  better  pre- 
served, and  belongs  to  a  less  known  epoch.  It  is 
essentially  Christian,  monuments  anterior  to  the  fourth 
century  being  very  rare,  the  greater  part  having  been 
demohshed  to  furnish  materials  for  the  construction  of 
Christian  edifices  ;  these,  on  the  contrary,  are  innumerable. 
"I  do  not  believe  there  exists  elsewhere  in  all  Syi'ia  a 
collection  which  can  be  compared  to  that  which  the  ruins 
of  these  countries  present.  I  should  almost  refuse  to 
apply  the  term  ^ruins'  to  a  series  of  cities  nearly  intact, 
or,  at  least,  of  which  all  the  elements  remain,  fallen 
sometimes,  but  never  scattered,  the  sight  of  which  trans- 
ports the  traveller  into  the  midst  of  a  lost  civilization, 
and  reveals  to  him,  as  it  were,  all  its  secrets.  In  trav- 
ersing these  deserted  streets,  these  abandoned  courts,  these 
porticos  where  the  vine  entwines  itself  about  the  broken 
columns,  one  receives  an  impression  analogous  to  that 
which  one  experiences  at  Pompeii ;  less  complete,  because 
the  climate  of  Syria  does  not  protect  its  treasures  like 
the  ashes  of  Vesuvius,  but  more  novel,  because  the  civil- 
ization which  one  contemplates  is  less  known  than  that 
of  the  age  of  Augustus.  Indeed,  all  these  cities,  which 
number  more  than  a  hundred  on  a  space  of  thirty  to 
forty  leagues,  form  a  collection  from  which  it  is  impos- 
sible to  detach  anything,  where  all  is  united  and  linked 
together,  pertaining  to  the  same  style,  to  the  same  sys- 
tem, to  the  same  epoch  in  fact,  and  that  the  primitive 
Christian  epoch,  and,  as  respects  the  matters  of  art,  the 
most  unknown  even  to  the  present  time,  namely,  that 
which  extends  from  the  foui'th  to  the  seventh  century  of 
our  era.  One  is  transported  into  the  midst  of  Christian 
society ;  one  observes  its  life, — not  the  hidden  life  of  the 


EAUBAN  AMCHITECTUBE. 


69 


catacombs,  nor  the  humble,  timid,  suffering  existence  which 
is  commonly  pictured,  but  a  large,  opulent,  artistic  life, 
in  grand  houses  built  of  immense  hewn  stones,  perfectly 
arranged,  with  covered  galleries  and  balconies,  beautiful 
gardens  planted  with  vines,  presses  for  wine,  cellars  and 

^  ^.  vessels    of    stone 

for  preserving  it, 
large  subterranean 
kitchens,  stables 
for  horses,  beauti- 
ful squares  lined 
with  porticos,  ele- 
gant baths,  mag- 
nificent churches 
with  columns, 
flanked  with  tow- 
ers and  surround- 
ed Avith  splendid 
tombs. 

'^  Crosses,  mono- 
grams of  Christ, 
are  carved  in  relief 
on  most  of  the 
doors,  and  numer- 
ous inscriptions 
are  to  be  read  on 
the  monuments. 
By  a  sentiment  of 


Windows  from  the   Hauran.      [From    De  Vogue.] 


Christian  himiility  which  contrasts  strikingly  with  the  em- 
phasized vanity  of  pagan  inscriptions,  they  contain  hardly 
any  proper  names,  but  pious  sentences,  passages  of  Script- 
ure, symbols,  and  dates.  The  choice  of  texts  indicates  an 
epoch  very  near  the  triumph  of  the  church.  There  is 
manifest  a  tone  of  victory  which  relieves  the  humility  of 


70  EAST  OF   THE  JOBBAN. 

the  individual,  and  wMcli  animates  the  least  fragment 
from  a  verse  of  the  Psalmist,  carved  in  beautiful  red 
letters  on  a  lintel  loaded  with  sculptures,  even  to  the 
graffiti  of  an  obscure  painter,  who,  in  decorating  a  tomb, 
has,  in  order  to  try  his  pencil,  traced  on  the  side  of  the 
rock  monograms  of  Christ,  and,  in  the  enthusiasm  of  his 
Christian  emancipation,  has  written,  paraphrasing  the 
labarum,  rovro  vlkU..    ( '  This  triumphs ! ' ) 

*'By  one  of  those  phenomena  of  which  the  East  affords 
frequent  examples,  all  these  Christian  cities  were  abandoned 
at  the  same  time, — probably  at  the  epoch  of  the  Mohamme- 
dan invasion, —  and  since  then  they  have  not  been  touched. 
Except  that  earthquakes  have  thrown  to  the  ground  many 
of  the  walls  and  columns,  they  lack  otherwise  only  beams 
and  planks  of  being  perfect  edifices.     *     *     * 

'^  The  date  of  the  buildings  of  the  Roman  epoch  is 
indicated  not  only  by  the  style  of  architecture  but  by  the 
considerable  number  of  inscriptions,  which  form  an  almost 
continuous  chain  from  the  first  to  the  fourth  century. 
It  is  in  the  Hauran  group  that  this  precious  epigraphic 
collection  is  found.  The  most  interesting  test,  from  an 
architectural  point  of  view,  is  that  of  the  Jcahjbe,  at 
Um  ez  Zeitun.  The  inscriptions  designate,  under  the  name 
'kalybe,'  a  kind  of  chapel  very  common  in  the  Hauran,  and 
which  is  composed  of  a  square  chamber,  opened  on  one 
side  by  a  grand  arcade,  flanked  by  two  walls  pierced 
with  niches.  A  flight  of  steps  leads  iip  to  this  central 
arcade.  The  square  chamber,  too  great  to  be  covered  by 
means  of  stone  slabs,  is  roofed  over  by  a  cupola  formed 
of  blocks.  We  have  already  referred  to  the  curious 
attempts  by  which  the  architects,  wishing  to  place  a 
cupola  on  a  square  plan,  advanced  before  they  discovered 
the  spherical  '  sconces.'  The  cupola  of  Um  ez  Zeitun  is 
the  most  ancient  dated  example  of  these  attempts,  and  it 


HAURAN  ARCHITECTURE.  71 

is  so  well  preserved  that  tlie  entire  method  of  its  con- 
struction can  be  observed.  According  to  an  inscription 
engraved  on  the  front  of  the  monument,  it  was  built 
in  the  seventh  year  of  the  Emperor  Probus,  i.  e.,  in 
A.  D.  282. 

"  The  grand  palace  of  Chakka,  designated  by  the  Arabs 
under  the  name  of  Kaisariyeh,  is  the  most  beauti- 
ful monument  with  a  cupola  of  the  imperial  epoch ;  nc 
inscription  accompanies  it,  nevertheless  its  date  is  evident 
in  the  building  itself.  Its  cupola  was  constructed  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  preceding ;  yet  a  still  stronger  fact 
proves  that  it  is  anterior  to  the  fourth  century :  the 
pagan  symbols  which  decorated  an  exterior  window  and 
door  have  been  effaced  by  the  Christians,  and  trans- 
formed by  them  into  Christian  symbols,  rudely  preserved 
with  the  others.  Thus,  when  inscriptions  are  wanting,  the 
material  cii'cumstances,  and  a  comparison  of  the  edifices 
with  dated  monuments,  enable  us  to  arrive  at  a  degree 
of  great  certainty.  It  is  the  same  with  the  Christian 
monuments  of  the  Hauran.  The  collection  of  Christian 
inscriptions  recovered  in  this  region  by  M.  Waddington 
is  at  least  as  rich  as  that  of  inscriptions  anterior  to  Con- 
stantine.  Nearly  aU  relate  to  the  construction  or  to  the 
repairing  of  religious  edifices.  They  bear  witness  to  the 
grand  architectural  movement  which  followed  the  triumph 
of  the  church,  and  continued  even  to  the  Mohammedan 
invasion.  They  enable  us  to  classify  the  monuments 
chronologically,  either  directly  or  by  analogy.  The  first 
churches  were  built  in  the  manner  of  the  pagan  basilicas 
of  the  country ;  the  last,  on  the  contrary,  start  from  the 
cupola,  and  already  foreshadow  the  form  of  the  great 
Byzantine  churches  of  Constantinople.  The  two  most 
interesting  monuments  of  this  series  are  the  grand  cathe- 
drals of  Bozra  and  of  St.  George  at  Ezra.     Theii-  date  is 


72  EAST   OF  THE  JOED  AN. 

certain :  a  beautiful  inscription,  engraved  on  the  lintel 
over  the  principal  entrance,  indicates  this  in  a  decisive 
manner.  One  is  510  and  the  other  512  of  the  Christian 
era.* 


"  From  the  point  of  view  of  ai't  and  archaeologj'",  this 
study  presents  a  peculiar  interest ;  for  in  the  region  of 
the  north,  as  in  that  of  the  south,  we  notice  the  appear- 
ance of  new  principles,  of  which  the  effect  has  been  to 
transform  profoundly  the  Greco-Roman  architecture,  and 
to  prepare  the  way  for  the  art  of  the  middle  ages.  With- 
out anticipating  the  results  of  this  labor,  we  are  already 
able  to  indicate  its  principal  modification. 

''In  antique  architecture,  the  entire  disposition  of  a 
monument  was  subordinated  to  a  system  of  proportions, 
to  a  formula  wliich  varied  little,  whatever  might  be  the 
dimensions  or  the  materials  employed.  The  plan  of  a 
smaD.  temple  would  serve  for  a  large  one,  by  increasing 
the  scale.  Everything  was  enlarged  at  once, —  columns, 
mouldings,  even  doors  and  windows.  An  order  once 
adopted,  all  its  details,  however  useless,  were  blindly 
followed,  even  in  opposition  to  the  function  to  which 
they  were  subjected.  Hence  it  is  that  in  Roman  monu- 
ments we  see  fragments  of  the  architrave  introduced 
between  the  arches  and  the  capitals  of  columns,  and  very 
prominent  cornices  outhning  themselves  on  the  interior  of 
buildings. 

"  The  Greco-Syrian  architects,  who  built  the  monuments 
which  we  are  studying,  proceeded  in  a  different  manner. 
While  adopting  the  elements  of  the  Greco-Roman  orders, 
they  employed  them  with  a  grand  logic,  retrenching  the 
useless  members,  and  no  longer  subordinating  their  dimen- 

*  See  the  plans  under  Edhr'a  and  Bozrah. 


HAUBAN  ABCHITECTUBE.  73 

sions  to  a  uniform  rule  of  proportion,  but  to  the  dimen- 
sion and  to  the  nature  of  the  materials  placed  at  their 
disposal,  and  to  the  design  which  they  wished  to  carry 
out.  Wishing  to  use  for  supports  only  monoliths,  they 
never  exceeded  a  certain  height,  and  gave  to  their  open- 
ings almost  invariable  dimensions,  whatever  might  be 
otherwise  the  size  of  the  edifice. 

"  If  the  column  was  not  of  sufficient  height  for  the  end 
proposed,  they  placed  it  on  a  pedestal,  or  raised  the  arch 
which  it  was  designed  to  support.  As  to  the  arches 
themselves,  they  rested  them  directly  and  without  inter- 
vening medium  on  the  capital;  if  the  reach  exceeded  the 
length  of  their  slabs  or  their  beams,  they  diminished  it 
by  the  employment  of  corbels,  or  by  the  combination  of 
corbels  and  small  columns  boldly  placed  on  the  corbelling. 
They  determined  the  projection  and  contour  of  the  exte- 
rior cornices  not  only  from  established  models,  but  from 
the  inclination  of  the  roofs,  the  drainage  of  the  water, 
or  any  other  practical  condition.  In  a  word,  they  pro- 
duced good  and  substantial  architecture,  in  which  each 
member  was  required  by  a  function  clearly  indicated,  of 
which  the  decoration  was  sober  and  original,  and  which, 
essentially  logical  and  reasonable,  wanted  neither  elegance 
nor  firmness. 

"  Thus,  while  in  the  "West  the  sentiment  of  art  gradu- 
ally disappeared  under  the  rude  embrace  of  barbarism, 
in  the  East,  at  least  in  Syria,  there  existed  an  intelligent 
school,  which  maintained  the  best  traditions  and  rejuve- 
nated them  by  felicitous  innovations.  Within  what  limits 
was  the  influence  of  this  school  exercised?  In  what 
measure  did  its  instruction  or  its  examples  contribute  to 
the  Western  revival  of  the  eleventh  century"?  And, 
finally,  what  part  did  the  Byzantine  East  play  in  the 
formation  of  our  French  art  of  the  middle  ages?  We  do 
4 


74  EAST   OF   THE  JORDAN. 

not  pretend  to  solve  these  problems  definitely ;  but  one 
will,  in  the  accompanying  illustrations,  find  at  least  the 
principal  elements  for  the  solution  of  them.  To-day  we 
are  able  to  assert  that  Oriental  influence,  either  direct  or 
indirect,  has  been  greater  than  we  have  hitherto  been 
disposed  to  admit.  In  respect  to  this  matter,  the  opinion 
held,  almost  alone,  by  M.  Vitet,  and  derived  by  him  from 
ingenious  inductions,  will  receive  from  the  monuments  a 
striking  confii-mation." 

While,  for  the  most  part,  we  approve  and  commend 
this  excellent  essay  of  De  Vogiie's,  there  are  two  or  three 
points  to  which  we  must  take  exception. 

He  says  above,  p.  63  :  "  We  have  not  met  with  structures 
of  a  more  ancient  date  than  the  first  to  the  seventh  centu- 
ries of  our  era."  This  remark,  taken  in  connection  with 
what  the  author  has  elsewhere  stated,  leads  us  to  infer 
that,  in  his  opinion,  there  are  in  this  region  no  remains 
of  a  civilization  anterior  to  the  birth  of  Christ.  It  is  a 
sufficient  answer  to  call  attention,  first,  to  the  pre-Roman 
work  at  Burak,  at  Tibne,  in  the  castle  at  Bozrah,  and  in 
Kunawat;  and,  secondly,  to  the  Biblical  testimony,  to 
which  De  Vogiie  fails  to  give  sufficient  weight,  that  at  the 
time  of  the  conquest  under  Moses  and  Joshua,  there  were 
in  this  region  "  threescore  cities,  all  of  them  fenced  with 
high  waUs,  gates,  and  bars ;  besides  un walled  towns  a  great 
many  "  (Dent,  iii.,  4,  5).  Another  fact  should  be  considered, 
namely,  that  in  this  country  the  eligible  sites  for  cities 
would  be  selected  when  men  fii'st  began  to  build,  and  such 
would  remain  the  eligible  sites  as  long  as  the  country  was 
inliabited  by  ciyilized  races. 

It  is,  therefore,  impossible  to  say  how  many  layers  of 
civilization  may  exist  beneath  any  one  of  these  important 
Hauran  towns.     Again,  unless  the  record  is  regarded  as 


HAUEAN  AMCHITECTUBE.  75 

unhistorieal,  we  have  evidence  that  this  region,  as  far 
back  as  twenty  centiuies  before  Christ,  was  occupied  by 
wealthy  people,  who  became  an  enviable  object  of  con- 
quest to  a  prince  whose  dominions  lay  about  the  head  of 
the  Persian  Gulf.  There  must  have  been  something  more 
than  a  few  tribes  of  nomads  to  have  attracted  hither  Che- 
dorlaomer  and  his  powerful  army  (Gen.  xiv.).  Further- 
more, diiring  several  centuiies  of  Assyrian  history,  the 
Hauran  is  associated  mth  Edom,  Moab,  Damascus,  and 
Hamath,  as  of  equal  importance  to  a  conqueror.  Shal- 
manezer  II.,  B.  C.  859-824,  made  twenty  or  more  cam- 
paigns to  the  West,  in  which  the  conquest  of  the  countries 
just  enumerated  was,  with  others,  the  object  of  his 
ambition.  He  says :  "  In  my  eighteenth  year  I  crossed 
the  Euphrates  for  the  sixteenth  time.  With  Hazael  of 
Syria  *  *  *  i  fought,  his  overthrow  I  accomplished. 
*  *  *  To  save  his  life  he  fled.  After  him  I  pursued; 
in  DamascTis,  his  royal  city,  I  besieged  him ;  his  planta- 
tions I  cut  down;  to  the  mountains  of  the  Hauran  I  went ; 
cities  tvithout  number  I  pulled  down,  destroyed,  in  the  fire 
I  burned ;  their  spoil,  without  number,  or  tincounted,  I 
carried  off"  ("Cuneiform  Inscriptions  of  Western  Asia," 
iii.,  p.  5,  No.  6).  Here  we  find  this  region,  which  De 
Vogiie  claims  was  sunk  in  barbarism  untd.  the  time  of 
the  two  Agrippas,  eight  and  a  half  centuries  before  the 
bu'th  of  Christ  fuU  of  wealthy  cities.  The  statement 
that  they  were  destroyed  by  being  "pidled  down,"  may, 
and  doubtless  does,  refer  to  the  fact  that  they  were 
largely  built  of  stone.  The  facts  now  brought  forward 
are  a  sufficient  answer  to  another  remark  of  our  author, 
so  far  as  it  applies  to  the  Hauran,  that  "  the .  manner's 
of  the  desert  have  always  been  the  same.  They  are  in 
otrr  time  what  they  were  in  the  days  of  Abraham  or 
Alexander." 


76  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Still  more  definite  is  the  following :  "  A  more  direct 
proof,  for  the  Hauran  group,  of  the  barbarism  which 
preceded  the  Roman  empire,  is  the  fragment  of  a  decree 
recovered  by  M.  Waddington  at  Kunawat,  the  ancient 
Kanatha,  in  which  King  Agrippa,  reproaching  the  inhab- 
itants on  account  of  their  savage  life,  appears  to  summon 
them  to  a  civilized  existence," 

This  inscription  consists  of  fragments,  and  we  repro- 
duce here,  omitting  the  accents,  all  that  remains  of  it : 

A.         *****     piTTTTag  (fiiXoKaiaap     ********* 
********     jxaiog  Afyei 
******     dr]piojSovg  KaraoraoeG)    **** 

jg^  *****       Qi,i^  Qj(J  Q-r^(^g  f^^XP^  ^^^  ^^      ********* 

**********     po^g  fxepEOiv  ev({)(i)Xev(7       ******** 
**********     i^ev  7]  firjS  oXcjg  rrore  y     *** 

De  Vogiie's  own  translation  is  to  be  found  in  his  essay 
in  the  "  Recovery  of  Jerusalem,"  p.  324,  which  I  will 
also  give,  taking  the  liberty  to  enclose  in  brackets  those 
portions  which  he  has  supplied.  This  will  enable  the 
reader  to  see  how  little  definite  information  the  inscrip- 
tion supplies :  "  [King  Agjrippa,  friend  of  Cgesar,  [and 
friend  of  the  Ro]mans,  says  *  *  *  of  a  life  hke  that 
of  wild  beasts  *  *  *  I  am  ignorant  how,  up  to  the 
present  time,  [in  many]  parts  of  the  [conn]  try,  dwelling 
in  caves    *     *     *     nor  altogether    *     *     *     _" 

In  my  judgment  it  is  not  possible  to  draw  from  these 
fragments  any  such  conclusion  as  M.  Waddington  (No. 
2329)  and  De  Vogiie  have  done,  nor,  indeed,  any  con- 
clusion with  respect  to  the  state  or  condition  of  the 
pef)ple  or  country  in  general.  Nor  do  I  see  how  it  can 
fairly  be  relied   upon    as  evidence   that  up  to  that  date 


HAUBAN  ARCHITECTUBE.  11 

(what   date   is   uncertain)  the  people  of  the  Hauran  had 
lived  in  a  state  of  absolute  barbarism. 

Finally,  when  De  Vogiie  states  that  "  Hauran "  is  a 
modern  term,  he  appears  to  overlook  the  fact  that  it  is 
mentioned  twice  in  the  book  of  Ezekiel  (xlvii.,  16,  18). 

Note. — ^The  words  " pendentif s  splieriques,"  which  I  have  rendered 
"spherical  '  sconces,' "  refer  to  an  arch  across  the  angle  of  a  square 
room,  to  support  a  siiperposed  octagon,  on  which  again  rests  the 
cupola  or  dome.  In  the  ''  Eecovery  of  Jerusalem,"  p.  332  (De  Vogue's 
Essay),  the  words  are  rendered  "  spherical  triangles."  For  the  French 
word  pendentif,  the  lexicons  give  "  pendentive,"  and  this  is  defined 
(Webster)  as  "the, portion  of  a  vault  between  the  arches  under 
a  dome.'' 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Um  el  Jemal,  the  "  Mother  op  the  Camel."" 

Camp  at  Bozrah.  Plan  for  a  bold  push  into  the  desert.  Um  el 
Jemal  previously  visited  by  only  two  Eiu'opeans.  Ibrahim  Effendi 
and  escort.  Arab  tribes  in  commotion.  Great  robbery.  Fine 
region  traversed.  An  unwalled  town.  Character  of  the  ruins. 
Three-story  houses.  Gates  and  arches.  Broad  avenues.  Eeser- 
voirs.  Bevelled  stones.  Black  pottery.  Eoman  troops  stationed 
here.  Church  or  convent  guarded  by  angels.  Photogi-aphs.  Ai-abs 
carrying  off  the  stones.  Insei'iptions  likely  to  be  lost.  Is  this  th*e 
Beth  Gamul  of  Jeremiah  ? 

Camp  at  Bozrah,  Tuesday,  September  28,  1875. 

YESTERDAY  we  made  an  important  ^dsit  to  the 
ruins  of  Um  el  Jemal,  a  little-known  but  very 
interesting  ancient  city.  Burckhardt  made  three  attempts 
from  as  many  points  lo  reach  this  place,  all  of  which 
were  unsuccessful.  Buckingham,  still  later,  was  also 
unable  to  reach  it ;  and  even  so  recent  a  traveller  as 
Wetzstein  was  obliged  to  turn  back  without  seeing  it, 
after  he  had  made  every  preparation  and  had  proceeded 
half  an  hour  or  more  from  Bozrah  on  his  way  thither. 
Dr.  Porter  says,  "the  only  European  who  ever  succeeded 
in  reaching  it  is  Cyril  C.  Graham."  But  the  place  has 
been   visited,  probably  since  the   statement  just  quoted 


UM  EL   JEMAL.  79 

was  Avritten,  by  M.  Wadding-ton,  who,  however,  has  not 
described  it  with  any  detail.  Besides  the  two  gentlemen 
just  named,  I  am  not  aware  that  the  place  has  been 
visited  by  any  other  Europeans  previous  to  the  arrival 
there  of  our  own  party.  Out  of  the  path  of  travellers, 
and  even  of  adventurous  explorers,  it  is  not  strange  that 
books  on  Palestine  have  very  little  to  say  about  it. 

From  the  castle  at  Salehad,  one  can  see  this  pile  of 
ruins  far  away  to  the  south-west,  a  dark  mass  resting 
upon  the  treeless  plain.  The  statement  has  been  made 
that  these  ruins  can  be  seen  also  from  the  castle  at 
Bozrah ;  but  the  truth  of  this  I  am  inclined  to  doubt. 
It  is  not  corroborated  by  the  testimony  of  our  effeudi, 
and,  besides,  there  are  so  many  ruins  on  the  plain  that 
one  of  these  might  easily  be  mistaken  for  Um  el  Jemal. 
They  lie  about  sixteen  miles  from  Bozrah,  and  are  at 
present  uninhabited.  We  found  no  water,  although  there 
is  a  large  reservoir  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  I 
counted  as  many  as  four  smaller  ones  in  different  parts 
of  the  city.  There  is  evidence  that  the  place  contains 
also  large  cisterns, — one  such  at  least  I  saw, — in  which 
may  be  water.  These  it  will  be  interesting  to  examine 
at  another  time.  The  roof  of  the  one  I  looked  into  was 
supported  by  five  Roman  arches. 

As  an  early  start  was  necessary,  we  rose  at  3.30  A.  M., 
and  had  breakfast  at  four  o'clock.  It  was  quite  dark, 
and  aE  this  was  done  by  candle-light.  We  left  our  camp 
at  five  o'clock,  and,  guided  by  a  man  with  a  lantern, 
made  our  way  over  the  ruins  and  among  the  waUs  and 
columns  of  ancient  palaces  and  temples  to  the  castle 
here ;  for  the  officer  in  command,  Ibrahim  Effendi,  pro- 
posed, as  he  had  never  visited  the  place,  and  was  "very 
much  interested  in  antiquities,"  to  accompany  us  with 
some  soldiers.      Fortunately  the  morning,  and  the  whole' 


80  EAST   OF   THE  JORDAN. 

day,  as  it  proved,  was  quite  cool,  so  that  om-  ten  hours 
and  forty  minutes  in  the  saddle  were  less  tedious  than 
they  might  otherwise  have  been.  We  were  in  all  twenty 
men,  well  mounted  and  well  armed.  Besides  the  animals 
we  rode,  we  had  three  extra  ones  for  photographic  appa- 
ratus, water,  and  other  baggage. 

About  two  miles  outside  of  Bozrah  we  came  upon  a 
large  encampment  of  Bedawin,  numbering  over  one  hun- 
dred long  black  tents,  and,  judging  from  the  deafening 
howl,  there  were  three  or  four  dogs  to  every  tent. 
Several  hundi*ed  camels  were  scattered  about  in  groups, 
and  there  was  evidently  excitement  of  some  kind,  for 
men  were  shouting  and  running  in  all  directions.  Some 
of  them  ran  up  to  our  soldiers  and  told  of  a  heavy 
robbery  that  had  been  committed  during  the  night,  and 
of  the  great  loss  they  had  suffered  in  cattle  and  camels. 
Our  soldiers  gave  chase  in  the  direction  indicated  by 
these  men,  and  it  was  a  fine  sight  to  see  them,  with 
such  of  the  Bedawin  as  were  mounted,  dashing  over 
the  plain  in  their  efforts  to  discover  the  robbers.  These, 
however,  had  done  their  work  too  near  morning,  or 
else  had  taken  more  than  they  coidd  manage,  and  had 
fled,  leaving  the  camels,  or  most  of  them,  to  return  at 
leisure  to  theii'  masters.  I  counted  in  a  single  string 
one  hundred  and  fifty  camels  thus  making  their  way 
back.  During  the  next  hour  or  two  we  saw  as  many 
as  half  a  dozen  gi'oups  of  camels,  at  different  places  on 
the  plain,  that  had  passed  through  the  experience  of 
being  stolen  the  night  previous. 

Three  miles  south  of  Bozrah  we  struck  the  pei'petual 
desert,  the  region  of  desolation.  Not  that  the  soil  is 
barren,  but  in  all  this  wide  and  naturally  fertile  district 
no  man  dare  plough,  plant,  or  build.  Here  is  land  as 
level  as  any  prairie,   and   as   rich   as  any  in  the  world, 


UM  EL   JEMAL.  81 

with  stones  enough  upon  it  to  serve  for  building  pur- 
poses, h^ng  idle  and  useless.  One  can  easHy  picture 
it  cut  up  into  hundreds  of  fine  farms,  and  covered  with 
dwellings,  orchards,  and  gardens,  and  all  the  marks 
of  civilized  and  skilful  husbandly.  Yet'  this  desert 
shows  signs  of  former  cultivation,  for  the  stones  in  many 
parts  have  at  some  time  been  gathered  into  long  rows, 
e\'idently  to  serve  as  boundaries  for  fields.  The  plain 
is  covered  with  a  small  alkah  shrub,  which  resembles 
the  sage-bush  so  common  on  our  Colorado  and  other 
plains  of  the  far  West.  The  crocus,  also,  appeared  in 
many  places,  and  the  contrast  between  the  barren,  burnt 
sm-face  of  the  plain  and  these  beautiful  flowers  was 
very  striking.  On  the  way  we  passed  several  ruins, 
the  names  of  which  we  could  not  learn ;  and  the 
same  was  true  on  our  return,  as  we  came  most  of  the 
way  by  a  different  route.  There  are  scores  of  these 
ruined  towns  scattered  about  this  plain  awaiting  the 
careful  explorer.  Far  in  the  north-east  the  fortress  Sal- 
chad  loomed  up,  a  magnificent  object  on  the  horizon, 
commanding  a  view  of  all  this  wide  plain  to  the  north, 
east,  south,  and  west.  I  noticed  that  the  common  barn- 
swallows  were  very  abundant ;  and  we  also  saw  diuing 
the  day  ten  or  more  gazelles,  to  some  of  which  our  men 
gave  chase,  but  without  success. 

We  reached  Um  el  Jemal  after  a  ride  of  about  five 
hours.  The  ruins  do  not  abound  in  columns  and  tem- 
ples, like  those  of  Kunawat  or  Oerash ;  still  they  are 
imposing,  and  make  a  pecuhar  impression  upon  one, 
because  they  stand  alone  in  the  desert.  They  are  remark- 
able, in  the  first  place,  from  the  fact  that  they  present 
only  two  prominent  styles  of  architecture,  namely,  Roman 
and  Christian,  or  Byzantine,  and  not  half  a  dozen,  as  is 

so  often  the  case  in  other  places.     They  are  remarkable, 
4* 


82 


EAST   OF   THE  JOED  AN. 


again,  because  they  afford  a  good  example  of  an  umvalled 
town.  Indeed,  in  this  respect  they  are  very  instructive. 
But  the  walls  of  the  houses,  in  many  cases,  joined  each 


Church    and    Houses    at    Urn    el    Jema!. 


other,  and  this  would  give  the  appearance  of  a  city  wall 
separate  from  the  houses.  Such  an  arrangement  would 
no  doubt  add  to  the  facilities  for  defence.  If  there  was 
no  waU,  there  was  at  least  a  gate  to  the  city.  Thi:^  was 
broad,  and  composed  of  four  arches.  When  perfect,  it 
was  one  of  the  principal  public  ornaments  of  the  place. 
From  studying  the  pecidiarities  of  some  Jewish  cities 
mentioned  in  the  Old  Testament,  I  have  been  led  to  the 
conclusion  that  a  city  of  importance  might  have  its  gates 
even  when  it  had  no  walls.  The  Hauran  ruins  present  a 
few  other  illustrations  of  this  fact,  besides  the  great  city  in 
the  desert  of  which  I  am  now  writing. 


UM  EL   JEMAL.  83 

Tlie  dwellings  and  edifices  here  were  not  huddled  together. 
There  has  been  no  bnilding  and  rebuilding  on  the  ruins  of 
former  buildings,  according  to  later  Oriental  style.  The 
open  spaces  about  the  houses  were  large,  and  the  streets 
were  broad.  At  least  two  avenues  ran  through  the  city 
fi'om  north  to  south,  one  of  which  was  one  hundred  feet 
wide,  and  the  other  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 
Nothing  appears  crowded.  Everywhere  there  is  a  sense  of 
roominess.  It  must  have  been  a  city  noted  for  broad 
streets,  spacious  avenues,  large  courts,  fine  gardens,  and 
promenades.  Consequently  it  would  be  a  cool  city,  and  no 
doubt  delightful  as  a  place  of  residence.  Again,  the  houses, 
which  were  built  of  stone,  are  not  only  the  finest  but  the 
best  preserved  of  any  that  I  have  seen  in  the  Hauran,  or  in 
all  the  country  east  of  the  Jordan.  This  is  the  best  place 
t(5  study  the  architecture  of  private  dwellings  of  an  early 
period,  because  the  houses  were  originally  of  a  fine  order, 
and  because  they  have  been  so  well  preserved.  They  were 
bmlt  on  a  generous  scale.  Some  of  them  were  three  or 
even  four  stories  high.  I  noticed  that  eleven  or  twelve 
feet  was  a  common  height  for  the  ceiling  in  the  first  story, 
ten  feet  in  the  second,  and  in  two  or  more  cases  the 
height  of  the  ceiling  in  the  third  story  was  also  ten  feet. 
The  doors  of  the  rooms  on  the  second  floor  as  well  as  on 
the  first  were,  as  a  rule,  seven  and  a  half  or  eight  feet  high. 
The  rooms  were  not  small,  but  spacious,  that  is,  spacious 
for  private  houses.  A  number  of  those  that  I  measured 
were  ten  by  twenty-five  feet,  or  twelve  by  twenty-four. 
There  were,  of  course,  both  larger  and  smaller  rooms  than 
these.  The  roofs  were  supported  by  arches,  and  by  increas- 
ing the  number  of  these  a  long  hall  could  be  covered  as 
weU  as  a  small  apartment. 

A  common  style  of  building  seems  to  have  been  a  group 
of  houses  with  a  wide  space   around  the  outside,  and  a 


84  EAST   OF   THE  JORDAN. 

large  open  court  on  the  inside.  These  courts  were  fifty 
feet  by  seventy-five,  and  sometimes  larger.  Stone  stairs 
on  the  outside  of  the  houses,  facing  the  court,  led  up  to 
the  second  and  third  stories.  Many  of  these  are  in  as  good 
condition  as  if  they  had  been  built  but  a  year  ago.  There 
are  no  decided  marks  of  great  antiquity.  In  the  large 
reservoh*  before  mentioned,  there  are  some  bevelled  stones, 
with  the  fullest  rough  face.  Very  many  of  the  stones  of 
which  the  houses  are  built  are  simply  split,  and  not  faced 
at  all;  yet  it  should  be  observed  that  the  splitting  was 
remarkably  regular.  It  was  evidently  at  one  time,  and  I 
should  judge,  for  a  long  time,  a  prominent  Christian  city. 
I  found  remains  of  what  I  consider  to  have  been  three 
Christian  churches.  Further  examination  might  bring  to 
light  others.  One  of  these,  at  least,  had  a  portico,  and 
columns  were  lying  about  the  front  of  it.  In  no  other  city 
east  of  the  Jordan  that  I  have  visited  do  so  many  crosses 
appear  on  the  lintels  of  the  doors  of  private  houses  as  here. 
Then,  again,  the  inscriptions  are  by  no  means  the  least 
important  fact  connected  with  these  ruins.  M.  Wadding- 
ton  has  published  several  Greek  and  Latin  inscriptions 
from  this  i>lace,  and  during  my  visit  I  found  seven  others 
which  he  has  not  given,  besides  several  in  the  Nabathean 
language.  Among  those  which  M.  Waddington  has  given, 
I  find  that  one  is  in  honor  of  M.  Aiu'elius  Antoninus. 
Another  shows  that  the  troops  or  garrison  stationed  here 
were  cavalry,  belonging  to  the  Ninth  Dalmatian  Horse, 
who  were  under  the  command  of  one  Julius,  an  officer 
attached  to  the  court  of  the  prince.  They  formed  a  section 
of  the  body  of  troops  known  as  YexiUarii — veterans  upon 
whom  was  conferred  special  honor.  Possibly  a  hint  may 
be  obtained  as  to  the  character  of  the  place  by  the  land 
and  rank  of  the  soldiers  that  were  assigned  to  it.  This 
inscription  belongs,  probably,  to  A.  D.  371. 


UM  EL   JEMAL.  85 

On  the.  four  faces  of  a  square  tower,  seen  in  tlie  illustra- 
tion, belonging  to  a  large  building  wMcli  may  have  been 
a  monastery,  are  several  inscriptions  in  Greek,  chiefly  of  a 
religious  nature.  One  is  a  fragment  taken  from  the  Twenty- 
first  Psalm.  Others  contain  the  names  of  Uriel,  Gabriel, 
and  Emmanuel.  Waddington  refers  to  the  use  of  the 
names  Uriel,  Gabriel,  Raphael,  and  Michael,  in  the  early 
Jewish  %vritings.  Four  angels  were  placed  at  the  corners 
of  the  throne  of  God,  who  were  the  genii  of  the  four 
cardinal  points.  Uriel  was  the  angel  of  the  north ;  conse- 
quently his  name  appears  on  the  north  face  of  this  tower. 
Gabriel  is  the  name  on  the  east  face,  and  the  edifice  is  put 
under  the  protection  of  these  two  angels. 

Among  the  Nabathean  inscriptions  is  one  from  a  monu- 
ment dedicated  to  the  god  Dusares,  who  was  extensively 
worshipped  in  these  regions. 

I  am  sorry  to  state  that  the  Arabs  are  every  year  carry- 
ing off  the  stones  of  this  city  to  other  places.  As  many  as 
six  men  were  at  work  while  we  were  there,  throwing  down 
the  walls  and  getting  the  long  roof-stones,  which  were  to 
be  taken  away  on  camels.  Just  before  we  reached  the 
place,  we  met  thirty  or  forty  camels  that  had  started  with 
loads  of  stone  from  these  ruins.  It  is  easy  to  see  how 
important  inscriptions  may  be  carried  off,  and  thus  val- 
uable historical  material  forever  lost.  This  practice  of 
removing  stones  from  one  place  to  another  has  gone  on  for 
centuries.  Indeed,  it  prevailed  in  Bible  times  ;  and  we  may 
be  justified  in  concluding  that  the  citizens  of  the  Hauran 
possessed,  in  their  day,  much  finer  private  houses  than  any 
which  now  appear  among  the  ruins.  It  was  on  account  of 
this  plundering  which  I  saw  going  on  that  I  regretted  so 
deeply  I  coidd  not  remain  and  complete  a  thorough  arch^- 
ological  examination  of  the  ruins  at  once.  We  took  two 
photographs  of  the  city,  and  made  some  measurements. 


86  EAST   OF  THE  JOBBAN. 

The  place  appears  to  have  been  deserted  for  centuries. 
I  should  judge  that  the  desertion  was  sudden  and  complete. 
There  are  no  traces  of  there  having  been  any  lingering, 
deteriorating  remnant  of  people,  or  of  any  wretched  subse- 
quent inhabitants,  to  mutilate  it,  as  is  frequently  the  case  in 
these  large  ruined  cities.  I  noticed  an  interesting  fact  in 
regard  to  the  pieces  of  pottery  with  which  the  surface  of 
the  ground  here,  as  in  all  these  ruined  towns,  is  covered. 
In  most  cases  one  sees  only  the  red  pottery,  but  in  Um  el 
Jemal,  the  black  was  the  prevailing  kind,  and  the  red 
decidedly  the  exception.  There  are  but  few  places  in  SjTia 
where  the  black  pottery  is  made.  In  the  first  century, 
according  to  the  Talmud,  the  black  kind  was  considered 
superior  to  the  red,  and  brought  a  much  higher  price  in  the 
markets ;  and,  what  is  also  interesting  in  this  connection,  a 
certain  town  in  Galilee  had  a  monopoly  of  its  manufacture. 

So  far  as  I  am  at  present  aware,  there  are  no  means  of 
knowing  what  the  ancient  name  of  this  place  was,  or 
whether  it  corresponds  to  the  "  Beth  Gamul "  of  Jeremiah 
xlviii.,  23.  This  last  supposition  is  suggested,  I  think,  by 
both  Dr.  Porter  and  Mr.  Graham,  and,  on  the  other  hand, 
it  is  doubted  or  disputed  by  M.  Waddington,  Dr.  Grove, 
and  others.  In  the  passage  referred  to,  it  is  stated  that 
"judgment  is  come  upon  the  plain  country,"  and  in  the 
list  of  eleven  cities  there  specified,  "  Beth  Gamul,  Beth 
Meon,  Kenath,  and  Bozrah"  are  mentioned.  "Judgment 
is  come,"  it  is  said,  "  upon  all  the  cities  of  the  land  of 
Moab,  far  or  near."  The  word  for  "  plain  "  here  is  niisJio); 
and  the  word  for  "far"  is  raJioJc,  meaning  '^remote,"  "far 
away."  But  it  is  not  known  how  far  the  country  desig- 
nated by  misJior  extended.  If  this  word  and  Moab  were  used 
in  Jeremiah's  time  with  anything  like  the  latitude  with 
which  such  general  names  were  used  in  later  times,  they 
could  easily  have  embraced  the  country  as  far  north  as  Um 


U3I  EL   JEMAL.  87 

el  Jemal,  and  even  Bozrah.  If  Bozrali,  in  the  passage  in 
question,  corresponds  to  the  place  where  we  now  are,  which 
is  doubtful,  or  at  least  has  not  yet  been  proved,  then  there 
would  be  no  difficulty  in  making  Um  el  Jemal,  or  "  Mother 
of  the  Camel,"  correspond  to  the  Beth  Gramul,  or  "  House  of 
the  Camel,"  of  Jeremiah. 

On  our  way  home,  as  we  had  no  guide,  and  paths  do  not 
exist,  we  took  the  Y.T7ong  direction,  and  when  we  had  ridden 
five  hours  we  did  not  find  our  camp.  We  ascended  a 
slight  elevation,  which  commanded  a  \dew  of  a  wide  region. 
We  had  a  choice  of  seven  ruined  cities  which  were  in  sight 
from  where  we  stood ;  but,  as  night  was  rapidly  approach- 
ing, even  our  effendi  could  not  tell  which  was  Bozrah. 
We  made  a  guess,  which  proved  a  lucky  one,  and,  after  one 
hour  and  a  half  hard  riding  in  the  dark,  we  reached  our 
tents  in  safety. 

I  have  already  said  that  the  day  was  quite  cool,  com- 
pared with  some  weather  that  we  have  experienced,  and 
I  was  glad  that,  in  addition  to  my  ordinary  clothing,  I 
had  worn  a  thick  worsted  jacket  under  my  coat.  As  we 
approached  the  ruins,  the  black,  broken  walls  reminded  me 
of  the  burnt  portion  of  Boston,  after  the  great  fire  of  1872. 
The  color  of  the  basalt  rock  of  which  these  Hauran  ruins 
are  constructed  gives  one  at  first  the  impression  that  they 
have  been  blackened  by  fire. 


CHAPTER  VII. 
Personal  Experiences. 

Camp  at  Es  Salt.  Situation.  Ancient  remains.  Church  of  England 
mission  school.  Jesuits.  Left  alone  with  the  care  of  the  camp  and 
two  sick  men.  Friendly  assistance  of  a  native.  Bleeding  proposed 
for  one  of  the  sick.  Difficulty  in  preventing  it.  Presents.  Arab 
proverb.  Native  boy  wishes  to  go  to  Beirut  to  school.  The  Hauran 
"desert"  a  fertile  region.  Former  vine  culture.  Visit  to  Moimt 
Hermon.  My  work  in  the  desert.  No  rain.  Our  meals  in  tent  life. 
Peculiarities  of  om*  cook.  Partridges  for  our  table.  The  process  of 
"  bagging  "  these  game  birds.  The  heat  and  its  effect  on  our  skin. 
Our  baggage.  Packing.  Our  muleteers  and  mules.  The  transporta- 
tion business  in  Syi-ia.     Difficulty  in  copying  inscriptions. 

Es  Salt,  Tuesday,  October  12,  1875. 

SINCE  we  reached  this  place,  late  Wednesday  night  of 
last  week,  I  have  tried  to  work  up  my  notes,  but  have 
been  so  constantly  occupied  with  the  care  of  the  sick,  and 
with  camp  duty,  that  I  liave  not  made  much  progress.  On 
Thursday  I  went  with  Dr.  Lewis  of  our  party,  to  see  if  we 
could  not  get  a  room  for  Mr.  T.,  in  some  building  connected 
with  the  Protestant  school,  but  found  none  that  was  suit- 
able. It  is  impossible  to  make  him  comfortable  in  his  tent ; 
still  it  is  the  best  place  for  him. 

There  are  about  seventy  pupils  in  this  mission  school, 
which  is  under  the  care  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  there 


PERSONAL  EXPEBIENCES.  89 

is  also  a  Catholic  school  here  and  a  convent.  Just  now  our 
photographer,  Mr.  Dumas,  is  sick  in  this  convent,  where  I 
visit  him  once  or  twice  a  day.  He  is  a  Catholic,  and  prefers 
the  convent  to  his  tent.  Yet  he  sends  to  me  to  furnish  him 
with  chickens  and  such  other  luximes  as  the  town  affords. 
On  Friday  morning  early,  Dr.  Lewis  and  Mr.  Van  Dyck, 
with  the  two  engineers,  left  for  Jerusalem.  The  latter  will 
return  Wednesday,  i.  e.,  to-morrow  night,  while  the  others 
will  proceed  to  Jaffa,  and  thence  by  steamer  to  Beirut. 
Consequently  I  am  left  alone  with  a  large  camp  to  look 
after,  and  two  sick  men  to  care  for,  with  one  of  whom  I 
have  to  watch  day  and  night.  Mr.  Dumas  does  not  speak 
English,  but  speaks  several  other  languages,  while  the  ser- 
vant left  with  me  speaks  English  only  to  a  very  limited 
extent.  But  from  a  merchant  in  the  place,  who  was  for- 
merly a  teacher  in  this  school,  and  who  speaks  our  language 
well,  I  have  received  assistance  for  which  I  am  very  grate- 
ful^  From  him  I  have  learned  many  facts  about  Es  Salt, 
and  among  them,  that  the  place  is  not  destitute  of  antiq- 
uities, although  but  few  of  these  appear  above  ground. 
When  digging  for  the  foundation  of  theii*  chapel,  they  came, 
ten  or  more  feet  below  the  surface,  upon  a  perfect  bath. 
This  gentleman  represented  it  to  be  as  perfect  as  if  new, 
with  a  fine,  spacious  room.  He  says  that  below  other 
houses  large  stones  have  been  foimd,  and,  as  from  his 
description  they  are  faced  and  are  without  the  l)evel,  I 
judge  them  to  be  Roman  work.  Also,  about  twenty  min- 
utes from  the  town,  a  workman  who  was  digging  in  the 
side  of  the  hill  came  upon  columns,  a  section  of  mosaic 
floor,  and  other  ruins,  which  indicated  that  the  structure 
must  have  been  quite  elegant. 

The  present  town  lies  in  a  narrow  valley,  and  on  the 
steep  banks  of  the  hills  on  both  sides  of  it.  Indeed,  the 
houses  rise  one  above   another  in  such  a  way  that  they 


90  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

appear  to  overhang  the  valley.  On  the  north  side,  they 
extend  nearly  up  to  the  castle,  while  on  the  opposite  side, 
they  go  up  about  two-thirds  of  the  distance,  and  the  last 
thu'd  or  the  brow  of  the  hill  is  covered  wdth  rows  of  old 
but  very  thrifty  olive-trees.  In  the  valley  is  the  large 
spring  or  fountain,  from  which  the  inhabitants  obtain  their 
supply  of  water.     The  water  i§  sweet,  cool,  and  abundant. 

On  Sunday,  Mr.  Dumas  sent  up  a  messenger — a  kind  of 
village  doctor — for  the  purpose  of  bleeding  Mr.  T.  I  told 
him  that  Mr.  T.  was  very  nearly  dead  now,  and  I  did  not 
think  either  his  or  Mr.  Dumas'  advice  was  good.  Later  in 
the  day  he  came  again  and  insisted  upon  doing  what  he  had 
before  proposed,  and  I  had  great  difficulty  in  preventing 
him  from  accomplishing  his  object. 

On  Monday,  two  men  came  with  a  quantity  of  grapes, 
which  they  wished  me  to  accept  as  a  present.  My  servant 
had  already  purchased  an  ample  supply,  and  besides,  I 
could  not  make  them  the  return  which  they  would  certainly 
expect,  and  hence  I  refused  their  offer.  Obtained  in  this 
way,  the  grapes,  or  any  fruit,  would  cost  much  more  than 
if  bought  in  the  market.  The  natives  and  Arabs  under- 
stand this,  and,  in  fact,  it  is  expressed  in  a  proverb  :  •"  Ask 
a  present  where  it  is  going,  it  replies,  '  I  am  going  to  bring 
double.' " 

The  day  before  Dr.  Lewis  left,  a  young  man  came  to  see 
him  several  times  about  going  to  Beiriit  to  enter  the 
Protestant  college  there.  He  decided  to  go,  and  made  his 
preparations;  but  in  the  evening  l>efore  he  was  to  start 
with  the  Doctor,  his  parents  felt  so  badly,  and  their  friends 
made  the  distance  and  the  danger  seem  so  great,  that  he 
decided  to  abandon  the  project. 

Sheikh  FeUah,  of  the  Adwan  Arabs,  and  one  or  two  of 
his  friends,  are  here  to  negotiate  alwut  taking  us  into  theii' 
country,  farther  south.     They  have  long  smooth-bore  flint- 


^    '  *      %  '■^ 


PEBSONAL   EXPEBIENCES.  91 

lock  guns ;  in  fact  all  the  Druzes,  shepherds,  village  people, 
and  Bedawin  have  this  kind  of  weapon,  and  it  is  a  wonder 
to  me  where  such  numbers  of  them  were  made  or  came 
from. 

While  watching  with  my  sick  friend,  I  have  been  making 
some  retrospective  notes  on  our  camp  life  and  experiences 
in  the  country  through  which  we  have  just  passed.  Since 
leaving  cholera-stricken  Beirut  in  August,  we  have  crossed 
Mount  Lebanon,  snowballed  each  other  on  the  summit  of 
Hermon,  and  been  scorched  and  half  famished  with  thirst 
on  the  great  plain  of  Bashan. 

I  hardly  know  which  has  surprised  me  most,  the  exceed- 
ing fertility  of  the  country  east  of  the  Jordan,  or  the 
wonderful  ruins  which  dot  its  surface.  These  plains  burn 
up  in  summer,  and  in  one  sense  the  phrase  "  Hauran  desert " 
is  appropriate ;  at  the  same  time,  as  generally  used,  it  would 
mislead  almost  any  one  who  has  not  visited  the  region 
itseK.  The  finest  wheat  in  Syria  is  said  to  come  from  the 
Hauran,  while  in  the  northern  portions,  where  there  are 
villages,  the  productions  are  varied  and  abundant.  In 
the  fields  near  the  foot  of  Hermon,  on  the  plains  towards 
Damascus,  in  Jebel  'Ajlun,  and  about  Es  Salt,  the  grape 
crop  is  a  perfect  marvel,  both  in  regard  to  the  amount  pro- 
duced and  the  quality  of  the  fruit.  Farther  east,  about 
Bozrah,  Salchad,  and  on  the  slopes  of  the  Hauran  Mountains, 
are  traces  of  ancient  vineyards,  which  show  the  suitable- 
ness of  the  entire  Bashan  country  for  vine-culture.  Neither 
in  Eiu-ope  nor  California  have  I  ever  tasted  sweeter  or  more 
delicately  flavored  fruit  of  this  kind,  nor  seen  clusters  of 
such  immense  size  as  I  have  seen  and  tasted  in  Eastern 
Palestine. 

On  our  way  to  the  Hauran,  I  went  with  our  photographer 
to  Thelthatha,  where  there  is  a  beautiful  Greek  temple  in 
ruins,  and  besides  two  pictures  of  the  temple  itself,  we  took 


92  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

one  of  Mount  Hermon,  wliich  must  be  at  least  fifteen  miles 
distant.  Thelthatlia  is  about  three  hours  south-west  from 
Rasheiya.  On  the  summit  of  Hermon  there  appeared  to  be 
white  patches,  which,  when  visiting  that  point  three  days 
later,  on  Tuesday,  September  7,  we  found  to  be  large  banks 
and  fields  of  snow,  from  which  smaU  streams  were  issuing 
in  many  du'cctions.  The  thermometer  showed  72°,  although 
there  was  snow  all  about  us.  Last  winter  but  little  snow 
fell,  consequently  the  head  of  this  noble  mountain  is  not  so 
white  as  usual.  Besides  these  banks  and  fields  of  snow, 
the  ravines  are  also  fuU,  and  when  one  considers  that  prob- 
ably these  hills  are  honey-combed  with  vast  caverns,  one 
ceases  to  wonder  that  so  many  full-grown,  icy-cold  streams 
should  burst  forth  from  the  foot  of  this  mountain. 

In  addition  to  inscriptions,  plans  of  ancient  buildings,  and 
drawings,  we  have  secured  a  large  number  of  excellent  pho- 
tographs of  temples,  churches,  theatres,  castles,  columns, 
and  other  ruins,  some  of  which  have  never  before  been 
visited  by  a  photographer.  These  we  consider  an  important 
trophy  to  have  secured  from  the  desert.  Our  small  plates 
are  nine  by  eleven  inches,  and  our  large  ones  eleven  by 
fifteen  inches. 

One  curious  fact  in  oiu'  experience  as  Americans  is  that 
since  Thursday,  July  15,  we  have  seen  no  rain  nor  even 
showers.  That  day,  as  we  were  entering  the  Bay  of  Biscay, 
we  had  rain  ;  but  on  the  Mediterranean,  in  Egypt,  and  in 
Syi'ia  thus  far  we  have  had  none.  At  some  points,  how- 
ever, there  have  been  heavy  dews,  and  our  tents  in  the 
morning  would  be  quite  wet. 

With  regard  to  our  camp  experience,  we  had  our  breakfast 
anywhere  between  four  and  eight  o'clock,  to  suit  our  con- 
venience, according  as  we  wished  to  travel  far  or  not.  Our 
dinner-hour  was  between  six  and  ten  o'clock  at  night,  or  as 
soon  as  our  cook  could  get  the  food  ready  after  the  camp 


PERSONAL  EXPERIENCES.  93 

was  pitched.  Our  mid-day  meal  was  a  cold  lunch,  com- 
posed (counting  aU  the  different  dishes  we  ever  had)  of 
water,  bread,  cold  mutton,  cold  chicken,  hard-boiled  eggs, 
and  sardines.  But  we  never  experienced  such  a  state  of 
luxury  as  to  have  all  these  at  one  time.  Both  the  variety 
and  cj[uantity  of  our  food  were  often  extremely  limited. 
Very  seldom  were  we  able  to  take  our  lunch  under  any 
shade.  As  a  rule,  we  took  it  in  the  open  field,  sitting  on  a 
rock  or  on  the  ground.  When  we  could  find  a  fountain  of 
fresh  water  by  which  to  take  it,  we  considered  oiu'selves 
very  fortunate.  We  not  only  sat  on  the  ground,  but  we 
ate  with  our  fingers.  This  is  the  easiest  and  most  success- 
ful way  in  the  world  to  cope  with  a  chicken  bone.  But 
after  riding  a  half  or  an  entire  day  we  never  knew  such  a 
thing  as  a  poor  appetite.  The  driest  crust  of  bread,  the 
toughest  old  hen  that  ever  lived  beyond  her  time,  or  the 
most  leathery  piece  of  mutton  that  our  cook  ever  pro"vdded 
for  us,  was  eaten  with  the  keenest  rehsh.  It  is  astonishing 
how  a  sharp  appetite  will  flavor  and  sweeten  and  make 
palatable  in  every  way  the  poorest  food. 

We  had  with  us  a  native  cook,  whose  peculiar  doings  it 
would  require  pages  to  describe,  but  one  or  two  of  his 
habits  I  must  not  fail  to  mention.  Oui*  food  tasted,  at  first, 
of  allspice.  Every  dish  that  he  prepared  tasted  of  it.  We 
asked  him  if  he  used  pepper,  and  he  said  yes.  Then  we 
asked  him  why  everything  tasted  of  allspice,  and  he  repUed 
that  he  did  not  know.  We  had  him  clean  out  our  pepper  box 
and  can,  and  pound  some  fresh  pepper,  which  he  did.  StOl 
the  taste  of  allspice  remained.  When  we  came  to  examine 
the  box  which  contained  what  he  assured  us  wa.s  ungi-ound 
pepper,  we  found  that  it  was  allspice,  and  not  pepper  at  aU. 
and  we  learned  that  our  native  friend  who  was  directed  to 
buy  pepper  for  us  at  Beirut,  thinking  to  do  us  a  special  favor, 
got  allspice  instead,  which  is  entirely  in  accordance  with 


94  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Arab  taste.  Where  we  would  use  pepper  a  native  ^^dll  use 
allspice,  if  he  can  get  it.  Then  we  had  what  I  will  call  a 
tomato  episode,  which  illustrates  another  of  his  peculiar 
habits.  Our  cook,  like  the  people  of  tliis  country  in  gen- 
eral, seemed  to  go  on  the  principle  that  he  could  not  have 
too  much  of  a  good  thing,  and  hence  he  flavored  every  pos- 
sible dish  with  tomato.  Tomatoes  were  cooked  with  our 
mutton,  mixed  with  sauce  for  the  meat,  stewed  into  the 
boiled  rice,  mixed  with  the  l^atter  in  which  the  cutlets  were 
fried,  chopped  up  with  the  hash,  put  into  the  soup,  stewed 
and  poured  over  the  mashed  potatoes,  and,  if  there  was  any 
other  ordinary  dish  with  which  tomato  could  be  mixed,  it 
was  sure  to  be  done.  These  habits  we  found  it  almost 
impossible  to  correct  in  our  cook,  although  he  had  pre- 
viously had  a  little  experience  as  a  servant  in  the  family  of 
an  American  missionary. 

Our  genial  friend  and  companion,  Mr.  Henry  L.  Van 
Dyck, — not  being  obliged  to  measure  ruins,  to  take  photo- 
graphs, or  to  copy  inscriptions, — has  made  himself  very 
serviceable  with  his  gun,  in  furnishing  us,  two  or  three 
times  a  week  at  least,  with  a  dish  of  game.  Tliis  consists 
usually  of  partridges.  As  the  process  of  bagging  them  in 
this  region,  and  in  Syria  in  general,  is  peculiar,  I  will 
describe  it  in  the  language  of  Mr.  Wright,  who  has  had  con- 
siderable experience  in  sport  of  that  kind :  "  Tlie  partridge 
is  a  larger  and  stronger  bird  than  the  common  partridge 
fPerdix  cinereaj  at  home,  and  as  game-laws  are  here 
unknown,  the  birds  look  sharply  after  partridge  preserva- 
tion themselves.  An  old  cock,  with  good  eye  and  voice,  is 
generally  stationed  on  a  prominent  rock,  and,  when  danger 
;ipproaches,  he  gives  a  peculiar  cry  of  warning,  and  then 
slips  down  off  the  stone  and  runs  from  the  danger,  and  all 
the  partridges  in  the  neighborhood  follow  the  sentinel's 
example.     They  run  about  as  fast  as  a  common  dog.  and 


PERSONAL  EXPERIENCES.  95 

the  sportsman  must  go  at  the  speed  of  a  greyhound  to 
overtake  them.  The  usual  and  most  successful  method  is 
to  walk  slowly  towards  the  partridge  till  it  disappears 
behind  the  rocks,  then  rush  with  aU  your  might  to  the  spot 
where  you  last  saw  it,  and  continue  running  till  the  bird 
rises.  This  it  does  with  a  tremendous  screech  and  whii', 
and  you  must  fire  quickly  or  the  bird  is  gone  hke  a 
rocket.  The  natives  conceal  themselves  about  wells  and 
springs,  and  slaughter  the  poor  bu-ds  when  they  come  to 
drink,  and  they  sometimes  employ  a  decoy  partridge,  in  a 
cage,  to  call  its  free  friends  to  their  doom"  (p.  382). 

Our  friends  at  home  ought  to  see  our  hands  and  faces. 
After  we  had  been  in  the  desert  a  few  weeks,  we  were 
of  almost  precisely  the  same  color  as  the  Arabs  about  us. 
The  skin  on  the  hands  and  faces  of  some  of  the  party  woidd 
bm-n  and  blister  and  peel  off.  Others  of  us  would  tan.  I 
saw  that  my  own  hands  were  getting  blacker  and  blacker. 
I  had  no  looking-giass  and  hence  could  not  teU  about  my 
face,  but  my  companions  would  say  now  and  then,  "  "Well, 
you  are  about  black  enough ! "  The  difference  in  the 
color  between  my  hands  and  my  amis  was  so  great  that 
I  could  scarcely  recognize  my  own  flesh.  This  is  not  an 
exaggeration.  If  a  person  wants  to  know  what  the  word 
tan  means,  or  may  mean,  let  him  not  look  in  a  dictionary, 
but  expose  himself  for  two  or  three  months  to  a  SjTian  sun. 

In  some  books  relating  to  the  East,  much  is  said  of  "  sun- 
dried  bricks."  I  can  now  appreciate  this  phrase  better  than 
ever  before.  The  heat  here  is  so  powerful  and  so  long  con- 
tinued that  bricks  prepared  in  this  way  would  seem  to 
be  almost  as  durable  as  those  that  are  kiln -burned. 

All  oui-  tents  and  baggage — including  bedding  and  bed- 
steads, dining-room  and  kitchen  furniture,  pro\dsions,  skins 
of  water,  bags  and  boxes  of  various  kinds,  photographic 
apparatus  and  engineers'  instruments,  and  frequently  one 


96  'EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

to  three  days'  supply  of  barley  for  the  animals — had  to  be 
packed  every  time  we  moved,  and  unpacked  and  everj-thing 
put  in  its  place  whenever  we  camped.  All  these  articles,  so 
numerous  and  of  such  a  strange  variety,  are  always  packed 
in  a  certain  way,  tied  with  ropes  in  a  certain  way,  and  at 
last  loaded  on  mules  and  fastened  there  mtli  ropes  in  a 
certain  way;  for,  unless  everything  is  done  according  to 
rule  and  done  thoroughly,  the  load  will  get  loose  and 
fall  off;  but  when  the  goods  are  properly  packed  and 
loaded,  there  is  then  but  little  danger  of  this  happening, 
even  when  passing  over  the  roughest  mountain  roads.  After 
all  the  packages  were  properly  arranged  and  tied  up  into 
suitable  bundles,  it  was  no  small  task  to  load  these  upon 
the  mules.  It  ordinarily  took  our  men  two  houi'S  to  pack 
up  and  load,  ready  to  start.  This  kind  of  work  is  a  special 
art.  Men  have  to  be  trained  for  it,  and  a  good  mule- 
teer W'ill  always  command  good  wages.  A  gi'eat  deal  of 
the  merchandise  which  passes  between  Beirut  and  Damas- 
cus is  stOl  carried  in  this  way,  although  freight  wagons  are 
run  between  these  two  cities.  In  general,  however,  alT  the 
transportation  in  Syria  is  done  by  means  of  mules,  donkeys, 
and  camels.  Strong  pack-horses  are  sometimes  used  in 
place  of  mules.  That  all  the  business  of  this  kind  in  the 
country  should  be  done  with  pack-animals  is  a  fact  of  no- 
small  interest.  Such  freight  trains  or  caravans  are  often 
made  up  in  Beirut  or  Damascus  and  sent  far  away  to  Mosul 
and  Bagdad  in  the  Euphrates  vaUey,  a  distance  of  two 
months  or  more  across  the  desert.  In  tho  settled  portions 
of  the  country,  the  surplus  product  of  apricots,  raisins, 
wine,  nuts,  olives  and  olive  oil,  barley,  wheat,  tobacco,  pot- 
ash, and  wool,  not  to  mention  vast  quantities  of  raw  silk, 
amounts  to  several  million  pounds'  weight  a  year  for  each 
of  these  articles,  except  the  silk.  All  this  is  taken  to 
the  seaport  markets  on  the  backs  of  animals.      There  is 


PERSONAL  EXPEBIENCES.  97 

enough  carrying  trade  to  make  the  business  very  profitable 
so  long  as  animals  are  the  only  means  of  transportation, 
bnt  there  is  not  enough,  and  probably  there  will  not  be  for 
generations  to  come,  to  justify  th6  building  of  railroads. 

In  regard  to  my  own  special  duties,  I  speak  from 
experience  when  I  say  that  the  work  of  an  archaeologist 
in  this  country  is  by  no  means  easy.  In  towns  that  are 
inhabited,  one  niiist  first  be  sure  of  protection.  If  the  good- 
will of  the  sheikh  is  obtained  at  the  outset,  there  is  then  but 
little  danger.  This  could  generally  be  accomplished  by 
patience,  and  especially  when  we  were  able  to  render  him, 
liis  family  or  friends  any  medical  assistance.  Yet  in 
some  places  the  people  are  very  fanatical,  and  put  aU  sorts 
of  obstacles  in  one's  way,  even  if  they  do  not  dare  resort  to 
violence.  It  may  happen  that  the  sheikh  will  attempt  to 
protect  the  explorei',  and  at  the  same  time  connive  at  his 
people  while  they  steal  from  him  and  hinder  him  in  his 
work.  Usually,  however,  after  waiting  a  little,  all  parties 
become  conciliated,  and  the  explorer  is  taken  wherever  he 
wishes  to  go.  In  ruins  that  are  not  inhabited,  no  obstacles 
of  this  kind  are  met  with.  The  mutilating  and  rebuilding, 
whicJi  have  gone  on  for  centui'ies  in  these  old  cities,  have 
mixed  up  and  scattered  in  the  strangest  way  the  relics  of 
antiquity.  I  have  had  to  go  into  dark  holes,  crawl  about 
filthy  underground  goat-pens,  search  the  rooms  of  private 
houses  that  were  equally  filthy,  climb  up  towers  that 
threatened  to  fall,  or  over  great  piles  of  stones  where  a 
tumlile  and  bruises  were  not  the  exception ;  hang  by  my  legs 
with  head  down  from  some  window  in  order  to  copy  an 
inscription  that  had  been  built  into  a  wall,  lie  at  full  length 
on  my  face  among  thistles  and  thorns  and  in  the  dirt,  with 
the  sun  at  95°  or  100°  Fahrenheit  in  the  shade  pouring 
down  upon  my  back;  and  finally  to  search  carefully  the 
graveyards,  for  the  Arabs  take  inscribed  stones  wherever 
5 


98  JfAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

they  can  find  them,  without  any  reference  to  what  their 
inscriptions  may  be,  to  mark  the  resting-places  of  their 
friends.  Indeed,  I  have  found  several  interesting  Grreek 
and  Latin  inscriptions  still  doing  service  as  monuments  at 
the  head  of  some  Arab's  grave.  Inscriptions  on  the  head- 
stones of  such  graves  are,  however,  the  exception  in  the 
country  east  of  the  Jordan,  but  the  headstone  is  generally 
different  from  the  common  ones  used  for  curl>ing  the 
grave  itself.  Sometimes  a  piece  of  plain  marble,  a  small* 
section  of  a  fluted  column,  or  a  fragment  of  a  sculptiu'ed 
stone  serves  instead  of  one  that  is  inscribed.  Cufic  and 
Nabathean  inscriptions  are  frequently  found  in  connection 
with  the  stones  about  some  of  these  graves.  On  the  whole, 
this  work  in  many  respects  is  not  very  neat,  nor  is  it 
always  safe,  and  often  it  is  unpleasant  on  account  of  filth. 
Yet  there  is  sufficient  excitement  about  it  to  stimulate  one 
to  persevere,  and  gather  as  far  as  possible  all  facts  and 
records,  whether  inscriptions,  sculptures,  ineasm'ements  of 
massive  stones  or  styles  of  architecture,  wliich  throw  light 
on  the  origin  and  history  of  these  numerous  ancient  cities. 
As  a  partial  compensation,  one  gets,  by  thus  going  about 
in  towns  that  are  inhabited,  a  good  idea  of  what  Arab 
homes  and  houses  are,  and  also  some  little  insight  into 
Arab  life. 

With  regard  to  inscriptions,  no  matter  how  thoroughly 
an  explorer  may  glean,  new  ones  are  likely  to  be  brought 
to  light  every  year.  Some  old  ruin  will  fall  down,  a 
house  or  fountain  tvtII  be  repaired,  perhaps  a  mill  built, 
so  that  new  stones  are  dug  up,  and  thus  inscriptions 
not  before  known  appear.  Hence  it  happened  that  in 
a  number  of  places  where  M.  Waddington  had  been  and 
made  very  thorough  work  in  collecting  inscriptions,  I 
found  from  two  to  ten  additional  ones  in  each  place,  which 
he  had  not  seen.    For  instance,  at  Gerash,  one  long,  beau- 


PERSONAL  EXPERIENCES.  99 

tiful  Greek  inscrij)tion  of  seventeen  lines,  in  excellent 
preservation,  was  dug-  out  of  the  ground  only  last  year 
by  a  man  who  was  making  a  race-way  for  his  mill.  I  copied 
it,  and  also  took  a  good  paper  impression  of  it.  These 
impressions,  or  "  squeezes,"  as  they  are  sometimes  called, 
are  made  by  means  of  paper,  which  is  moistened  and  laid 
upon  the  stone,  after  it  has  fitst  been  cleaned,  and  then 
pressed  with  a  cloth  until  the  impression  is  perfect.  It  is 
then  allowed  to  remain  a  few  minutes,  when  it  is  taken  off 
and  carefully  dried  in  the  sun.  It  can  afterwards  be  packed 
and  transported  without  injury. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Sick  in  the  Desert. 

HardsMps.  Great  heat.  Gruarding  camp  unnecessarily.  One  member 
of  our  party  taken  sick.  Poor  water.  EusMng  of  OTir  animals  to 
quench  their  thirst.  No  comforts  for  the  sick  in  the  desert.  Sending 
to  Jerusalem  for  a  palanquin.  Terrible  sirocco.  Travelling  aii 
night.  Jordan  lined  on  both  banks  mth  Arabs.  Amusing  inci- 
dents in  crossing.  Friendly  aid  of  the  Arabs.  Going  up  to 
Jerusalem.  Painful  journey.  Quarters  for  my  sick  fi'iend  at  the 
Mediterranean  Hotel.  Kindness  of  Mr.  Hornstein  and  Dr.  Thomas 
Chaplin.  Palanquins  costly  vehicles.  Fevers  very  dangerous. 
'Arak  el  Emir.  Hyrcanus's  palace.  Caverns,  large  apartments,  and 
stables  excavated  in  the  rock.  Great  reservoir.  Josephus's  descrip- 
tion. Traces  of  battering-rams.  Points  where  excavations  should 
be  made.  At  Jerusalem.  Incidents  of  my  all-night  ride  when 
returning  to  Moab. 

Mediterranean  Hotel,  Jerusalem, 
Tuesday,  October  19,  1875. 

LAST  night  I  slept  finely,  and  a  soft,  clean  bed  seemed 
a  greater  luxury,  I  believe,  than  it  ever  did  before. 
There  are  only  a  few  j)eople  in  the  hotel  at  present,  and  the 
quiet  of  this  house  is  in  striking  contrast  to  the  noise  and 
confusion  of  camp  life,  where  dogs,  donkeys,  Arabs,  and 
muleteers  appear  to  combine  to  prevent  sleep  as  far  as 
possible.  The  last  few  days  have  been  exceedingly  try- 
ing, and  I  am  here  on  a  strange  errand.     From  Bozrah, 


SICK  IN  THE  DESEET.  101 

through  Dra'a,  Remtheh,  Gerash,  to  Es  Salt,  the  heat  was 
very  oppressive,  the  thermometer  showing  on  different  days 
as  high  as  85°,  87°,  90°,  and  93°  in  the  shade.  The  nights, 
however,  have  been  quite  cool.  Owing  to  the  unwise 
arrangement  of  one  member  of  the  party,  who  obstinately 
insisted  that  we  ourselves  should  guard  our  camp  at  night 
when  it  could  have  been  done  for  a  few  dimes  by  the  Arabs, 
one  gentleman,  Mr.  T.,  while  performing  this  duty,  took  a 
severe  cold  which  produced  serious  and  almost  fatal  results. 
The  water  at  Remtheh  was  very  poor,  and  had  it  not  been 
for  some  friendly  Turkish  soldiers,  who  aided  us  in  obtain- 
ing it,  we  should  have  had  none  at  all.  The  morning  of 
the  day  that  we  left  this  place  for  Gerash,  our  animals  had 
no  water,  nor  did  they,  or  we  ourselves,  have  any  until 
near  sunset,  although  our  march  was  about  eight  hours  for 
ourselves  and  about  ten  for  our  mules,  and  the  thermometer 
was  87°  in  the  shade.  When  at  last  we  found  water,  it  was 
a  dirty,  stagnant  pool,  hardly  eight  feet  in  diameter.  Our 
dog  Jack  plunged  in,  and  was  the  first  to  take  a  draught  of 
it.  Om'  animals  were  frantic  and  entirely  unmanageable 
until,  having  crowded  and  almost  tumbled  over  each  other 
in  their  efforts  to  reach  the  water,  they  had  quenched  what 
must  have  been  their  burning  thirst.  Then  came  our 
turn.  We  aU  drank  freely.  I  fancied  I  never  before  was  so 
heartily  thankful  for  any  blessing  as  for  the  two  or  three 
glasses  of  the  muddy,  dirty  stuff  which  I  drank  here.  But 
half  an  hour  beyond  this  place,  and  only  a  few  minutes 
from  Gerash,  we  found  a  small  spring  of  cool,  fresh, 
deUcious  water,  where,  of  course,  we  drank  again.  That 
night  our  friend  could  not  sleep  on  account  of  the  pain  in 
his  body  and  hml^s,  and  the  next  day  he  was  down  with 
fever.  Then  came  delirium,  which  lasted  two  weeks.  The 
fever  raged  with  great  violence.  The  tongue  and  throat 
became  so  swollen  and  parched  that  we  could  not  under- 


102  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

stand  what  the  sufferer  said.  As  Gerash  was  uninhabited, 
and  our  camp  supplies  were  very  limited  and  not  at  all 
suited  to  the  wants  of  a  sick  person,  we  must  push  on  or 
our  friend  would  die.  By  slow  marches,  with  long  intervals 
of  rest,  we  reached  Es  Salt,  thankful  that  our  friend  had 
survived  the  fatiguing  journey. 

Although  Es  Salt  is  quite  a  large  place,  with  a  Turkish 
garrison,  it  affords,  after  all,  but  few  comforts  such  as  a 
very  sick  person  needs.  Milk  was  almost  the  only  thing 
that  we  could  get  for  our  friend,  and  sometimes  our  mule- 
teers had  to  take  it  from  the  shepherds  by  force,  because 
they  would  neither  give  nor  sell  us  any,  clauning  that  as 
they  were  keeping  the  fast  of  Ramadan,  they  needed  it  all 
for  themselves.  Besides,  it  became  necessary  for  our  camp 
to  move  on,  and  the  sick  man  must  in  some  way  be  con- 
veyed to  Jerusalem,  where  he  could  have  proper  treatment 
and  care.  We  sent  to  Jerusalem  for  a  palanquin,  in  which 
he  niight  be  carried.  The  one  we  hoped  to  get  was  in  Jaffa, 
and  a  new  one  had  to  be  constructed.  Those  in  charge  of 
it  left  on  Saturday  afternoon,  and  by  travelling  all  the  time, 
including  the  night,  reached  Es  Salt  at  six  o'clock  on  Sunday 
evening,  October  17.  As  soon  as  the  men  and  animals  had 
rested  a  little,  we  put  our  friend  into  his  box,  on  as  com- 
fortable a  bed  as  we  could  make,  and  at  nine  o'clock  started 
on  om*  long,  tedious  journey  for  Jerusalem.  For  two  days 
and  nights  previously  we  had  had  a  terrible  sirocco,  and  on 
the  day  we  left  Es  Salt  the  thermometer  was  93°  in  the 
shade,  and  that  night,  as  we  passed  down  Wady  Sh'aib,  the 
air  was  like  that  from  a  heated  furnace.  Besides  the  sick 
man  and  myseK,  I  had  a  sheikh  of  the  Adwan  tribe  as  guide, 
a  muleteer,  one  servant,  and  the  three  men  who  came  with 
the  palanquin. 

A  palanquin  for  a  sick  person  is  a  box  in  which  a  bed  can 
be  made.    One  side  is  opened  when  the  person  is  laid  in, 


SICK  IN  THE  BESEBT.  103 

and  is  closed  again  and  fastened.  The  box  has  a  roof  and 
a  window,  sometimes  one  at  each  end,  for  light  and  ventila- 
tion. It  is  fastened  to  two  poles,  which  project  both  in  front 
and  in  the  rear  of  the  box,  and  between  these  projecting 
poles,  at  each  end,  a  mnle  is  made  to  walk,  to  whose  saddle 
the  poles  are  attached.  The  mule  in  front  can  see  well 
enough,  but  the  one  behind  has  a  hard  time,  because  his 
face  is  close  to  the  rear  end  of  the  box,  and  only  the  best  and 
most  sure-footed  animals  are. selected  for  that  difficult  posi- 
tion. Even  then  he  is  liable  to  stumble  a  good  deal,  to  bruise 
his  legs,  and,  what  is  worse,  to  shake  and  jar  the  sick  person. 
The  sick  man  would  roll  from  side  to  side,  which  would 
cause  the  palanquin  to  turn,  so  that  often  two  men,  and 
always  one,  had  to  walk  by  the  side  of  the  box  to  keep  it 
steady.  Sometimes  it  would  strike  against  a  projecting 
rock  or  the  branches  of  a  tree,  and  be  abnost  upset.  The 
path,  which  was  an  unusuaRy  good  one  for  Syria,  often 
went  along  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  with  ragged  rocks 
above,  and  the  wady,  now  become  a  frightful  gorge,  hun- 
dreds of  feet  beneath.  What  if  the  mules  should  make  a 
misstep  here  !  Such  was  always  my  thought  as  I  watched 
the  palanquin  and  the  men  steadying  it  while  passing 
those  dangerous  places.  We  were,  however,  providentially 
spared  from  any  such  accident  and  its  consequent  calamity. 
We  stopped  but  once  during  the  night,  except  to  give  our 
friend  water,  and  that  was  only  for  twenty  or  thirty 
minutes,  in  a  narrow  place,  to  let  a  long  procession  of 
camels  and  mules  pass.  The  moon  was  bright,  and  giant 
hills,  massive  rocks,  and  deep,  dark  gorges  with  the  water 
rushing  at  the  bottom,  dense  patches  of  oleanders  along 
the  banks  of  the  stream,  with  here  and  there  the  fire  of  a 
Bedawin  encampment,  made  up  the  scenery  along  the  route 
of  oui*  night-march,  until  we  reached  the  Jordan,  at  half- 
past  six  in  the  morning.     It  had  been  a  long,  anxious  night. 


104  EAST  OF  THE  JOED  AN. 

Here  a  strange  scene  presented  itself.  Hundreds  of  camels, 
mules,  donkeys,  men,  women,  ehildi-en,  and  dogs  were  cross- 
ing the  river,  and  both  banks  were  covered  Avith  people, 
animals,  and  baggage.  The  current  is  quite  rapid,  and  the 
water  came  within  a  few  inches  of  the  back  of  the  horse 
which  I  rode.  The  Ai-abs  strip  naked  and  carry  over  the 
most  of  their  goods  on  their  heads.  Camels  generally  carry 
their  own  loads;  as,  however,  they  are  not  sure-footed, 
several  men  usually  go  with  them  on  each  side  to  steady 
them  and  prevent  their  falling.  I  saw  one  poor  camel, 
for  which  the  current  was  too  strong,  lose  his  footing 
and  go  down,  and  as  his  load  was  heavy  and  strapped 
tightly  to  him,  it  went  to  the  bottom  and  his  feet  stuck  up 
out  of  the  water.  Then  there  was  a  commotion ;  men  and 
women  screamed,  and  twenty  naked  Arabs,  yelling  with  all 
their  might,  plunged  in  for  his  rescue.  His  load  was  cut 
loose  and  the  frightened  animal  saved  from  drowning. 

"We  made  a  litter  on  which  we  put  a  bed,  and  on  that 
tied  our  friend.  A  dozen  naked  Arabs  took  the  load,  and, 
holding  it  above  theii'  heads,  bore  it  safely  across.  It  was 
a  strange  sight,  both  comical  and  interesting.  The  Arabs 
shouted  and  sang,  but  they  kept  fast  hold  of  their  precious 
burden.  Here  were  wild  men  of  one  race,  taking  the 
kindest  care  in  their  power  of  a  helpless  fever  patient,  a 
stranger,  belonging  to  another  race.  There  were  no 
civilized  comforts  to  be  had ;  but  these  Bedawin  offered  the 
best  of  their  rude  comforts  to  help  the  sufferer,  and  did  it 
with  a  heartiness  that  would  have  been  commendable  to 
persons  in  any  Christian  land.  The  sick  man,  although  half 
dead,  could  not  help  laughing  as  the  men  laid  him  down  on 
the  western  bank.  The  Arabs  rejoiced  with  the  rest  of  us 
when  the  difficult  task  had  been  safely  accomplished,  and 
expressed  their  delight  by  many  emphatic  exclamations  of 
thanks  to  God.     About  us  in  the  bushes  were  many  Ai-ab 


SICK  IN  THE  DESERT.  105 

men  and  women,  most  of  whom  appeared  to  be  trying  to 
dry  theii"  clothes  which  had  become  wet  wliile  crossing  the 
river. 

It  took  us  one  houi'  to  get  across  the  Jordan,  and  we 
rested  in  addition  half  an  hour  more.  In  Jericho,  one  horn- 
and  a  half  from  the  Jordan,  we  rested  two  hours.  Then 
we  came  up  to  Jerusalem,  where  we  arrived  at  seven  o'clock 
on  Monday  night,  having  been  twenty-two  hours  on  the 
way,  during  eighteen  of  which  we  were  actually  travelling. 
The  men  with  the  palanquin  had  no  rest,  except  the  two 
hours  or  so  at  Es  Salt  on  Sunday  night,  for  more  than 
forty-eight  hours ;  and,  as  they  had  no  covering  for  their 
limbs  and  were  obliged  to  walk  beside  the  palanquin  to 
keep  it  from  upsetting,  theu'  legs  were  often  bruised  and 
torn  l^y  the  rocks  and  thorns. 

Oui'  jom*ney  from  Jericho  to  Jerusalem  was  really  the 
most  fatiguing  of  the  whole,  on  account  of  the  oppres- 
sive heat.  The  thermometer  showed  110°.  For  miles 
the  road  is  cut  tlu'ough  limestone  rock,  and  the  reflection 
of  the  sun's  rays  upon  this  white  surface  would  almost 
blister  my  face.  Often  I  was  obliged  to  close  my  eyes  for 
two  or  three  minutes  at  a  time,  because  the  glare  was  so 
painful  to  them.  Both  men  and  animals  suffered  very 
much.  But  my  anxiety  for  the  poor  sick  man  in  his  box 
surpassed  anything  that  I  suffered  physically.  Sometimes 
I  hardly  dared  look  into  his  box,  fearing  that  I  might  find 
him  dead.  He  told  me,  after  we  arrived  in  Jerusalem,  that 
he  had  suffered  terribly  that  day,  and  yet  he  never  com- 
plained. I  wonder  that  he  survived  the  journey.  Here 
in  Jerusalem  I  found  him  comfortable  quarters  in  the 
Mediterranean  Hotel,  and  placed  him  under  the  care  of 
Dr.  Chaplin,  who  is  well  known,  .not  only  in  Syria  and 
England  but  in  America  also,  for  liis  kindness  as  weU  as 
his  medical  skiU. 
5* 


106  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Fevers  in  this  country  are  ugly  things  for  the  system  to 
grapple  with.  They  hold  on  persistenth^  and  leave  the 
body  weakened  for  a  long  time.  Dr.  Chaplin  tells  me  that 
the  great  danger  in  cases  of  Syrian  fever  is  of  a  relapse. 
A  patient  will  appear  to  be  gaining,  when  a  relapse  will 
occur  suddenly  and  the  patient  die.  He  says  this  is  true  of 
a  majority  of  cases  of  this  kind,  and  hence  the  disease  is 
considered  very  fatal.  The  gentleman  just  referred  to,  and 
Mr.  Hornstein,  of  the  Mediterranean  Hotel,  have  told  me 
something  about  the  cost  of  palanquins,  in  addition  to  the 
personal  experience  I  have  just  had.  The  palanquin  and 
men  to  bring  the  sick  man  from  Es  Salt  to  Jerusalem, 
together  with  the  fees,  cost  seventeen  napoleons,  which  is 
equal  to  sixty-eight  dollars,  gold.  Physicians'  charges, 
when  the  full  charge  is  made,  in  Jerusalem,  are  two 
dollars,  gold,  for  each  visit.  On  one  occasion,  a  person 
was  taken  sick  in  the  Jordan  valley,  and  fifty  napoleons, 
that  is,  two  hundred  dollars,  gold,  were  jiaid  for  men  and 
a  palanquin  to  bring  him  to  Jerusalem.  Sick  people  are 
sometimes  taken  in  palanquins  from  Jerusalem  to  Jaffa, 
that  they  may  there  take  the  steamer,  and  the  usual  charge 
for  such  service  is  about  thirty  dollars,  gold.  Hence  to  be 
sick  in  this  country,  especially  in  the  desert,  is  not  only 
attended  with  unusual  danger,  but  also  with  great  pecuniary 
expense. 

Jerusalem,  Sunday,  October  31,  1875. 

On  Wednesday,  October  20,  I  made  preparations  to 
return,  and  towards  night  started  with  my  Ai-ab  sheikh 
and  one  servant  for  Hasban.  It  was  a  long  and  tedious 
ride,  but  I  reached  our  camp  early  Thursday  morning. 

On  Saturday,  October  23,  having  come  up  from  M'ain, 
Nebo,  and  Hasban,  we  camped  at  'Arak  el  Emir,  where  we 
spent  Sunday,  the  24th.     In  "Wady  Sir,  which  runs  past 


SICK  IN  THE  DESEBT. 


107 


these  riiins,  there  is  an  abundance  of  water,  and  a  wealth  of 
oleanders  along  its  banks.  The  ancient  name  of  this  place 
was  Tyi-e,  and  the  account  which  Josephus  ("Antiquities," 
xii.,  -4,  11)  gives  of  the  building  of  this  castle  is  interesting, 


Hyrcanus's   Palace   at  'Arak    el    Emtr. 

and  his  description  is,  so  far  as  it  goes,  very  accurate. 
These  ruins  are  among  the  most  interesting  in  S}Tia.  Here 
are  some  of  the  largest  stones  that  I  have  seen  east  of  the 
Jordan,  outside  of  Baalbec  and  Bozrah.  Here  was  also  one 
of  the  largest  reservoirs  in  the  country;  it  was  almost  a 
lake,  and  when  full  of  water,  ships  could  easily  have  floated 
in  it.  Nowhere  else  have  I  seen  a  wall  of  such  strength  as 
the  one  to  the  south  and  east  of  this  reservoir.  At  several 
points  on  the  north  and  west  sides  there  appear  to  have 
been  small  houses,  places  with  columns  and  open  sides  and 
roofs,  where  a  few  persons  at  a  time  could  sit  and  enjoy  a 


108  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

view  of  the  water  and  castle.  This  building,  or  palace, 
which  faces  the  east,  was  remarkable  for  its  strength  and 
beauty,  and  likewise  for  its  unique  situation.  It  measures 
from  north  to  south  one  hundred  and  twenty-four  feet, 
and  sixtj^-f our  feet  from  east  to  west. 

Some  excavations  ought  to  be  made  here,  and  the  neces- 
sary ones  could  be  conducted  without  any  very  great 
expense.  Shafts  should  be  sunk  at  various  places  to  find 
the  bottom  of  the  reservoir,  and  especially  at  the  south- 
west corner,  by  the  wall  which  there  supports  the  hill ;  two 
or  three  cross-sections  should  be  cut  through  the  causeway 
leading  from  the  castle  to  the  stables  in  the  rock,  to  the 
north  of  the  town.  The  ruins  of  the  public  buildings  and 
private  houses,  on  the  high  terrace  in  the  north-east  quar- 
ter, should  be  thoroughly  examined.  There  is  here  a  flight 
of  steps,  cut  in  the  rock,  leading  down  on  the  east  side  of 
the  terrace,  towards  the  wady.  At  this  point  I  noticed 
ornamental  work  on  many  of  the  stones.  The  caverns,  reser- 
vou's,  stables,  and  all  the  rooms  that  have  been  excavated 
in  the  rock,  should  be  measured  and  plotted.  Some  of 
them  are  half  full  of  goat-dung,  and  in  others  the  Arabs 
store  theu"  tihn,  or  chopped  straw.  The  aqueduct  by  which 
the  reservoir  was  filled  should  also  be  traced.  This,  at 
points  where  I  found  it,  is  of  stone,  each  stone  or  section  of 
the  trench  having  a  bottom  and  two  sides,  with  ends  nicely 
fitting  each  other. 

I  am  in  doubt  whether  the  causeway  leading  from  the 
castle  to  the  upper  terrace  in  front  of  the  stables  w^as  used 
as  a  road,  or  whether  it  served  in  some  way  to  bring  down 
the  water  from  above.  It  may  have  served  both  purposes  ; 
and  by  cutting  cross-sections,  as  I  have  proposed,  this  ques- 
tion could,  no  doubt,  be  determined.  Along  this  causeway 
there  runs  a  line  of  stone  posts,  in  each  of  which,  near  the 
top,  there  is  a  hole  as  if  for  a  railing.    The  place  is  one  of 


SICK  IN  THE  DESERT.  109 

unusual  interest,  and  1  can  do  no  better  than  supplement 
this  meagre  account  of  it  by  quoting  from  the  description 
of  Josephus,  to  which  I  have  already  referred.  He  says : 
"  Hyreanus  erected  a  strong  castle,  and  built  it  entirely  of 
white  stone  to  the  very  roof,  and  had  animals  of  prodig- 
ious magnitude  engraven  upon  it ;  he  also  di'ew  around 
it  a  great  and  deep  canal  of  water ;  he  also  made  caves 
of  many  furlongs  in  length,  l^y  hollowing  a  rock  that 
was  over  against  him,  and  then  he  made  large  rooms 
in  it,  some  for  feasting,  and  some  for  sleeping  and 
living  iu.  He  introduced,  also,  a  vast  quantity  of  water, 
which  ran  along  it,  and  which  was  very  delightful  and 
ornamental  in  the  court.  But  still,  he  made  the  entrances 
at  the  mouth  of  the  caves  so  narrow  that  no  more  than  one 
person  could  enter  by  them  at  once.  And  the  reason  why 
he  built  them  after  that  manner  was  a  good  one :  it  was  for 
his  own  preservation,  lest  he  should  be  besieged  by  his 
brethren,  and  run  the  hazard  of  being  caught  by  them. 
Moreover,  he  built  eoirrts  of  greater  magnitude  than 
ordinary,  which  he  adorned  with  vastly  large  gardens ;  and 
when  he  had  brought  the  place  to  this  state  he  named  it 
Tyre,  This  place  is  between  Arabia  and  Judea,  beyond 
Jordan,  not  far  from  the  country  of  Heshbon." 

The  figures  of  which  Josephus  speaks  are  still  visible 
on  the  stones,  both  those  that  remain  in  position,  and 
those  that  have  fallen.  They  all  appear  to  have  been 
bruised,  and  this,  no  doubt,  was  done  by  battering-rams. 
The  illustration  is  of  the  front  or  east  wall,  at  the  north-east 
corner.  The  stones  are  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  feet 
long,  seven  to  ten  wide,  and  about  three  feet  thick. 

It  is  hardly  probable  that  the  caves  which  exist  here 
were  excavated  by  Hyreanus.  There  can  be  little  dou])t 
that,  for  the  most  part,  they  were  natural,  since  they  are 
common  in  limestone  regions,  and  that  they  had  always 


110  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

been  oecnpied,  either  by  peaceable  inhabitants  or  by  rob- 
bers. Hyrcanus  may  have  enlarged  them  in  fitting  them 
up  for  his  residence. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  features  of  these  caves  at 
present  is  the  long  stable,  lined  with  mangers  dug  in  the 
rock,  with  a  hole  by  the  side  of  each,  through  which  the 
rope  that  fastened  the  animal  was  put  and  tied.  I  did  not 
count  these  mangers,  but  Dr.  Tristram  says  there  is  stabling 
here  for  one  hundred  horses  ("  Land  of  Israel,"  p.  520). 

On  Monday,  the  25th,  by  an  unusually  long  and  hard 
ride,  we  came  through  from  'Arak  el  Emir  to  this  city ; 
but  our  camp  did  not  arrive  till  after  nine  o'clock  at  night, 
and  we  did  not  get  our  supper  so  as  to  go  to  bed  before 
twelve  o'clock. 

As  Dumas'  special  work  was  done,  he  decided  to  leave 
the  party,  and  went  yesterday  to  Jaffa,  intending  to  sail 
thence  to-day  or  to-morrow  for  Beirut. 

On  Thursday  forenoon,  the  28th,  our  camp  with  the  two 
engineers  started  north  on  its  way  home,  while  I  expect 
to  remain  here  a  few  days  with  our  sick  friend,  and,  as 
soon  as  he  is  able  to  endure  the  journey,  to  go  with  him 
to  Beirut  by  steamer. 

The  fast  of  Ramadan  is  at  an  end  now,  and  a  number 
of  guns  have  been  fii'cd  from  the  old  fort  near  the  Jaffa 
gate.  But  the  dogs  in  the  streets  form  the  most  effectual 
nuisance  for  disturbing  one's  slumbers;  and  I  judge  that 
they  must  sleep  all  day,  since  they  bark  and  howl  all  night. 

Pastor  Weser,  of  the  Lutheran  church  here,  I  find  a 
very  pleasant  man,  and  well  informed  on  the  antiquities 
of  Jerusalem.  Dr.  Chaplin  also  is  exceedingly  cordial 
and  friendly,  and  his  interest  in  the  excavations  which 
Captain  Warren  carried  on  here,  and  also  in  the  English 
survey  of  Western  Palestine,  makes  his  acquaintance  par- 


SICK  IN  THE  DESERT.  Ill 

ticiilai'ly  valuable.  Speaking  of  the  dangers  from  highway- 
men he  said  that  on  the  second  night  after  I  left  Jerusalem 
for  Moab  week  before  last,  the  keeper  of  the  ferry  on 
the  Jordan  near  Jericho  was  murdered.  This  would  have 
been  on  Thiu-sday  night,  for  it  was  on  Wednesday  night, 
as  I  have  before  stated,  that  I  crossed  the  river  about  mid- 
night, with  my  servant  and  Arab  sheikh.  "When  we  reached 
Jericho,  we  delayed  two  hours  or  more  waiting  for  the 
moon  to  rise,  for  my  men  and  the  people  at  the  khan  said 
it  would  be  very  dangerous  trying  to  cross  the  river  in  the 
dark.  Dr.  Chaplin  says  that  the  work  I  have  done  dm*ing 
the  past  fortnight,  including  the  all-night  rides,  is  enough 
to  kiU  any  man,  and  he  wonders  that  I  am  aiive. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

On  the  Way  to  the  Field. 

Preparations  and  outfit  for  the  expedition.  My  companion.  Leave- 
taking  of  friends  in  Beirut.  Tlie  Phcenieian  coast.  Ancient  ruins. 
Dr.  Eddy  and  family  in  Sidon.  Old  tombs  and  iridescent  glass.  No 
Roman  roads  in  Western  Palestine.  Soldiers,  guns,  and  cattle. 
Ras  el  'Arn.  Hiram's  tomb.  Route  to  Tibnin  and  Hunin.  Dark- 
ness and  storm.  Goat-pen  a  luxury.  Wheat-fields.  Assyrian 
sculpture.  Fine  old  castle  at  Hunin.  Route  to  Safed.  Violent 
storm.  Suffering  of  men  and  animals.  In  a  coffee-shop  at  Safed. 
Camp  arrives  at  midnight.  Loads  lost.  Two  hours'  sleep  in  a  khan. 
Sxamining  the  place  with  an  officer.  The  attack  on  Lieutenant 
Conder's  party.  Down  the  moimtain  to  Gemiesaret.  Camp  at 
Tiberias. 

Camp  at  Tiberias,  Sunday,  February  20,  1876. 

IT  is  no  small  task  to  prepare  for  an  expedition  that  is  to 
occupy  several  months,  and  is  intended  to  operate  in  a 
desert  country  where  are  only  wandering  inhabitants,  who 
have  little  or  nothing  to  sell  that  civilized  men  wish  to 
buy ;  but,  after  a  week  or  more  devoted  to  this  work,  our 
preparations  were  complete,  and  we  left  Beirut  on  the 
morning  of  Tuesday,  February  15,  1876.  Drs.  Post  and 
Van  Dyck,  Professor  Le"v\Ts,  the  Rev.  Dr.  Thomson,  also 
Mr.  Edgar,  our  Consul,  and  others,  bade  us  good-1)y,  and 
said  they  confidently  expected  that  our  expedition  would  be 


ON  THE    WAY  TO   THE  FIELD.  113 

productive  of  valuable  results  as  regarded  the  special  work 
of  our  society.  Mr.  Henry  L.  Van  Dyck  is  my  interpreter 
and  companion,  and  we  have  three  muleteers,  Bishara, 
Abdullah,  and  Faris,  besides  Halil,  our  cook,  and  Tannus, 
our  servant  and  general  assistant.  We  have  in  all  thirteen 
animals,  but  three  of  these  belong  to  our  muleteers,  and  are 
brought  along  by  them  at  no  expense  to  us.  We  have  also 
two  dogs,  Jack  and  Shag.  Of  these.  Jack  is  an  old  trav- 
eller, having  been  through  the  Hauran  with  us  in  1875.  He 
is,  however,  rather  delicate,  with  tender  feet,  a  kind  of 
gentleman  dog,  by  which  hardships  are  not  easily  borne. 
Shag  is  younger,  has  a  happy  disposition,  and  does  not 
show  fatigue  like  his  mate.  We  have  one  large  tent  for 
sleeping  and  work,  and  one  cooking-tent,  besides  a  small 
shelter-tent  for  our  men  in  case  of  storms.  For  the  most 
part,  however,  the  muleteers  prefer  to  roll  up  in  their 
blankets  and  lie  down  among  the  animals. 

Mr.  Henry  W.  Thomson  accompanied  us  as  far  as  the 
river  Ghadir,  one  hour  and  thirty  minutes  from  Beirut, 
regretting  that  he  could  not  accompany  us  on  our  expe- 
dition. On  the  hills  north  of  the  Damur,  the  village 
Mu'allakat  ed  Damur  appears  to  good  advantage.  It  is  a 
prosperous  Christian  town,  and  its  wealth  consists  chiefly 
in  mulberry  trees,  which  cover  a  good  many  square  miles. 
The  sHk  crop  is  by  no  means  a  certain  one,  and  sometimes 
is  wholly  lost,  for,  just  as  the  tender  leaves  begin  to  shoot 
forth,  a  sirocco  comes,  and  the  leaves  aU  turn  black,  which 
ruins  the  crop  for  that  year.  Siroccos,  severe  enough  any- 
where, are  said  to  be  unusually  so  at  this  point  of  the  coast. 
After  crossing  the  Damur,  we  lunched  on  a  beautiful  grass- 
plot,  exactly  where  I  had  lunched  with  a  party  in 
1869.  About  Khan  Khulda,  two  hours  from  Beirut,  are 
some  old  foundations,  and  there  are  traces  of  important 
remains  below  the  surface,  as,  for  instance,  where  a  winter 


114  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

torrent  has  left  one  side  of  a  liigh  bank  exposed,  in  which 
are  columns,  squared  stones,  and  a  number  of  sarcophagi. 
This  place  is  supposed  to  be  the  one  mentioned  in  the 
"  Jerusalem  Itinerary  V  as  the  Mutatio  Heldua.  In  the  hills 
at  oui'  left  were  some  wheat-fields,  beginning  to  be  green, 
and  some  groves  of  pine.  If  these  mountains  could  be 
covered  with  forests,  as,  no  doubt,  they  once  were,  they 
would  be  remarkably  picturesque  and  attractive.  This 
coast  is  fertile,  and  even  the  sand  clear  to  the  water's  edge 
is  capable  of  bearing  trees. 

Along  the  coast,  near  the  water,  are  numerous  quan'ies 
whence  stones  have  been  taken  to  Beirut.  The  rock  is  a 
coarse  sandstone,  and  is  very  soft.  It  is  easily  cut,  but, 
upon  exposure,  hardens  and  becomes  very  durable,  and 
will  then  also  resist  the  action  of  rain,  which  is  not  true  of 
the  stones  in  a  new  house.  Just  north  of  Sidon  is  a  stream 
called  El  Kamlet,  and  on  the  south  of  the  city,  near  where 
we  camped,  is  another  called  Barghut,  the  first  meaning 
"louse,"  and  the  second  "flea," — significant  names!  We 
had  a  pleasant  caU  in  Sidon  on  the  Eddys,  all  of  whom 
were  at  home.  From  the  top  of  their  house,  where  we 
were  about  sunset,  the  view  over  the  Mediterranean  was 
fine,  and,  indeed,  the  sea  has  been  calm  all  day,  and  its 
surface  beautiful,  dotted  at  intervals  with  boats  and  the 
larger  native  craft.  We  visited  the  school  and  church 
belonging  to  the  mission,  and  saw  something  of  what  these 
noble  workers  are  doing  towards  redeeming  this  city  and 
the  region  about  it  to  ci\dlization  and  Christianity. 

Near  our  camp  there  had  been  a  good  deal  of  digging 
among  the  ancient  tombs.  New  sarcophagi  are  frequently 
brought  to  hght  at  a  depth  of  ten  or  fifteen  feet  below 
the  surface  of  the  ground.  It  is  near  here  that  the  sar- 
cophagus of  Ashmanezer,  with  its  valuable  inscriptions, 
was  discovered  in  1855.    A  good  deal  of  iridescent  glass, 


ON  THE    WAY  TO   THE  FIELD.  115 

and  some  copper  implements  of  various  kinds,  are  fre- 
quently found  in  connection  with  these  tombs. 

One  hour  north  of  Tyre,  we  crossed  the  Litany,  which  in 
its  lower  portion  is  called,  however,  Nalrr  el  Kasimiyeh.  It 
is  the  third  river  in  Syi'ia,  the  Jordan  being  first  in  size  and 
the  Orontes  second.  At  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  a  broad, 
fertile  plain,  where  rich  crops  will  almost  grow  of  themselves 
wlien  the  seed  is  once  planted.  The  air  was  delightful, 
and  the  fresh,  light  breeze  from  the  sea  very  invigorating. 
The  sunset  was  aU  that  painter  or  poet  could  desire  — 
gorgeous  pictures  of  amber  and  gold  along  and  above 
the  horizon.  Over  the  stream  Abu  el  Aswad,  two  hours 
north  of  Tyre,  is  a  perfect  Roman  arch  spanning  the 
channel.  It  is  a  surprising  monument  of  ancient  engi- 
neering skiU.  To  the  north  and  south  of  it  for  a  con- 
siderable distance,  and,  in  fact,  at  various  points  along 
the  coast,  are  traces  of  a  Roman  road,  of  which,  as  far 
as  I  am  aware,  there  is  not  a  single  perfect  section 
remaining.  The  ancient  curbstones  appear  at  some  points, 
but  the  stones  of  the  road-bed  which  one  sees  to-day  are 
modern  work.  A  good  Arab  or  Turkish  road  is  almost 
impassable  in  its  best  condition,  while  a  Roman  road  was 
paved  with  flat  blocks,  along  which  horses  could  trot. 
On  an  Arab  road,  it  is  a  feat  for  a  horse  to  go  along 
at  a  slow  pace  without  breaking  Ijis  legs.  What  an  active 
scene  this  road  must  have  presented  twenty  centuries  ago, 
when  it  was  thronged  Avith  chariots,  carriages  of  travellers 
or  pleasure  parties,  trains  of  merchandise,  and  companies 
of  Roman  soldiers ! 

"We  passed  one  drove  of  cattle,  numbering  about  fifty. 
Cattle  here  are  smaller  than  with  us  in  America,  but 
these  were  in  fine  condition,  and,  I  am  sure,  would  receive 
a  premium,  even  if  they  were  to  be  driven  into  Brighton 
market.     Along  the  road  was  a  small  company  of  soldiers 


116  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

making  their  way  to  the  garrison  at  Acre.  We  passed 
them  half  a  dozen  times.  They  wonld  pnsh  ahead  and 
lie  off  in  the  shade,  and  when  we  passed  would  overtake 
us  again.  They  did  not  seem  to  be  in  a  hurry.  I  judge 
they  do  not  intend  to  kill  themselves  for  a  government 
from  which  they  receive  almost  nothing.  They  were 
armed  with  "Winchester  rifles,  and  took  considerable  inter- 
est in  our  weapons,  of  which  we  have  a  variety.  El 
Khudr,  the  name  of  a  tvely  near  the  shore,  and  an  old  klian 
beside  it,  occupy  the  site  of  the  ancient  Zarephath  or  Sar- 
epta,  but  the  modern  village  Surafend  is  in  the  hiUs  back 
of  the  plain.  It  was  removed  from  the  sea-coast  for  the 
sake  of  defence.  Near  here  are  some  ancient  remains. 
Three  hours  before  reaching  Tyre,  we  turned  aside  to  the 
hills,  in  order  to  examine  some  very  interesting  tombs, 
which,  no  doubt,  date  from  an  early  period.  Near  them 
I  found  a  fragment  of  a  Greek  inscription,  of  which  the 
letters  were  finely  carved. 

1  have  made  one  interesting  discovery,  namely,  that  my 
horse  will  allow  me  to  fii'c  from  his  back.  This  is  a  great 
convenience,  for  by  this  means  I  can  get  much  nearer  to 
large  wild  birds  than  I  possibly  could  on  foot. 

We  examined  Ras  el  'Ain,  the  tomb  of  Hiram,  and 
passed  the  village  of  Kana  on  our  way  to  Tibnin,  which 
we  reached  in  three  hours  and  twenty -five  minutes  from 
Hiram's  tomb.  Towards  night,  after  leaving  Tibnin,  it 
began  to  rain,  and  by  six  P.  M.  it  was  perfectly  dark.  Our 
servant  who  was  with  us  had  been  over  the  road  and 
thought  he  knew  it.  Doubtless  he  did  so  in  fair  weather 
and  in  the  day-time,  but  we  soon  got  out  of  our  way  in 
the  darkness  and  blinding  rain,  and  it  would  be  difficult 
to  say  how  far  we  wandered.  At  length,  we  saw  a  light 
in  a  valley  below  us,  and,  after  a  rough  scramble  down 


ON  THE    WAY  TO   THE   FIELD.  117 

over  rocks  and  bushes,  Tannus  reached  the  place,  which 
proved  to  be  a  small  camp  of  Arabs,  and  a  man  came  who 
guided  us  to  Hunin,  the  point  which  we  wished  to  reach. 
I  wonder  we  did  not  break  our  necks  and  limbs  and  the 
legs  of  our  horses  in  trying  to  reach  the  castle,  but  the 
feat  was  accomplished  without  serious  accident.  Our 
camp  was  not  there,  and,  had  it  not  been  for  a  friendly- 
shepherd  whom  we  roused  from  among  the  ruins,  our 
ease  would  have  been  desperate.  His  goats  were  in  one 
of  the  best  preserved  apartments  of  the  castle,  and  these 
he  removed  to  another  and  gave  up  the  first  for  our  use. 
It  was  open  at  one  end,  and  the  other  end  had  a  hole  in 
it  six  or  eight  feet  square,  through  which  the  rain  and 
wind  poured.  But  here,  in  this  goat-pen,  we  were  not 
exposed  entirely  to  the  mercy  of  the  elements,  although 
the  prospect  for  the  night  was  dubious.  Towards  mid- 
night our  camp  arrived,  and,  with  our  lights,  we  found  a 
sheltered  place  where  one  tent  could  be  pitched.  As, 
fortunately,  our  mattresses  were  not  wet,  we  made  oui* 
beds,  and  had  a  plain  supper,  so  that  we  lay  down  to 
sleep  about  one  o'clock.  Our  animals  and  men  found 
shelter  in  the  goat-pen  ah-eady  referred  to,  and  where  for 
some  time  we  ourselves  expected  to  spend  the  night,  wet, 
cold,  and  supperless. 

The  fountains  at  Ras  el  'Ain  are  some  of  the  most 
remarkable  in  the  country.  There  are  no  springs  or 
streams  in  the  plain  behind  them,  and  the  water  is 
raised  to  the  necessary  level  by  artificial  embankments 
or  walls.  These  are  very  massive,  and  are  thickly  over- 
grown with  \'ines  and  bushes,  which  give  them  the 
appearance  from  a  distance  of  natui-al  mounds.  The 
water  bm-sts  directly  from  the  ground,  and  must  come 
from  natural  but  concealed  reservoirs  at  some  distance 
among  the  hills.     The  top  of  one  of  these  fountains  is 


118 


EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 


twenty-five  feet  above  the  plain  and  is  sixty-six  feet  in 
diameter,  and  the  copious  stream  flowing  fi-om  it  affords 
an  excellent  water-power.     Two  mills  stand  on  this  stream. 


.,1; 


iiilfiiliiSiillB^ 


Assyrian    Sculpture   in  the    Rock.      Near  Tyre. 

while  the  stream  from  one  of  the  other  fountains  is  con- 
veyed in  aqueducts  to  the  plain.  It  is  not  known  when 
these  fountains  were  built,  nor  is  the  depth  of  water  in 
them  ascertained.  The  natives,  in  reply  to  our  question, 
said,  "  God  only  knows  how  deep  it  is." 

The  most  forward  wheat  I  have  yet  seen  we  passed  just 
east  of  these  fountains.  It  was  about  knee-high,  but  aU 
this  vast  plain  is  covered  with  evidences  of  the  marveUous 
fertility  of  the  soil  about  this  ancient  and  beautiful  city. 


ON  THE    WAY  TO   THE  FIELD. 


119 


At  Hiram's  tomb  there  appears  to  have  beeu  an  old 
Phoenician  burying- ground,  and  many  sarcophagi  contain- 
ing treasures  and  relics  of  antiquity  are  found  also  about 
Kana,  a  Christian  village  two  hours  farther  to  the  east. 

HaK  an  hour  beyond  Kana,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
gorge  through  wliich  the  road  to  Tibnin 
winds,  I  observed  a  hole  in  the  face 
of  the  rock  two  hundred  or  more  feet 
above  the  road,  and  climbed  to  it.  The 
hole  proved  to  be  an  artificial  one,  five 
feet  seven  inches  by  four  feet  seven  inches 
square,  and  thirty-two  inches  deep.  It 
is  of  singular  form,  consisting  of  no 
less  than  five  different  recesses  let  into 
each  other,  like  a  nest  of  boxes.  The 
last,  or  inmost  and  smallest,  is  thirty- 
three  by  thirty-two  inches  in  size  and 
twenty-six  inches  deep.  I  found  no 
trace  of  an  inscription,  but  on  the  back 
wall  of  the  chamber  is  a  sculpture,  con- 
sisting of  a  sitting  figure  with  one  person 
standing  behind  it  and  two  standing 
before  it.  The  one  behind  is  holding 
over  the  head  of  the  sitting  figure  a  fan. 
These  figures  stand  on  a  platform  which 
is  raised  two  inches  above  the  floor  of 
the  chamber,  and  above  their  heads  is  the 
common  Assyrian  winged  circle  or  globe. 
This,  however,  was  imperfectly  carved,  or  else  it  has 
been  defaced,  hence  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  re- 
store it  in  the  accompanying  illustration.  It  is  quite 
a  problem  how  these  could  have  been  carved  in  this 
hole,  for  a  workman  could  do  no  more  than  get  his  head 
and  shoulders  in,  to  say  nothing  of  cutting  figures  witli 


Section  of  Rock,  show- 
ing Assyrian   Sculpt- 
ure.     Near  Tyre. 


120  EAST  OF  THE  JOBBAN. 

chisels.  Tools  at  least  three  feet  long  would  have  been 
required,  which  one  person  must  have  held  while  the  other 
applied  the  hammer.  But  with  aU  the  inconvenience  of 
working  in  such  a  place,  the  sculpture  bears  traces  of 
having  been  well  executed.  The  Assp'ian  origin  of  this 
sculpture  is  undoubted,  and  as  such  it  is  a  monument  of 
great  interest  as  indicating  one  of  the  routes  pursued  by 
the  Assyi'ians  on  their  way  to  the  sea-coast,  when  they 
came  from  Damascus  past  the  great  fortress  at  Banias. 
Another  route  would  be  the  great  thorouglifare  fi'om 
Banias  to  Sidon.  The  only  notice  which  I  have  seen  of 
figures  in  this  vicinity  is  that  of  Porter's  "  Hand-book,"  in 
his  route  from  Saf ed  to  Tyre,  and  again  under  Tyre  and  the 
tomb  of  Hiram.  Dr.  Porter  quotes  from  Hon.  Roden  Noel, 
"Vacation  Tourists,"  1860,  who  found  somewhere  in  this 
region  figures  which  he  considers  to  be  Egyptian,  and 
states  as  follows :  "  The  agathodaemon  over  the  whole 
group  is  unmistakable ;  there  is  Disk,  Uranus,  and  wings." 
But  the  distance  from  Kana  and  the  dii*ection,  as  well  as 
its  proximity  to  a  village,  Mera'ah,  make  it  doubtful 
whether  these  are  the  figures  which  Mr.  Noel  saw.  There 
may  be  others  in  these  walls  of  rock,  and,  indeed,  Dr. 
Thomson  has  given  representations  of  some  sculptured 
human  figures  from  this  immediate  vicinity,  which  "  were 
probably  cut  by  Phoenician  artists"  at  a  very  early  period- 
(Vol.  I.,  p.  288). 

The  Wady  'Ashur,  which  we  followed  up,  is  wild  and 
picturesque,  containing  traces  at  many  points  of  an 
ancient  road,  and  the  ascent,  for  the  most  part,  is  gradual 
and  easy.  Fifteen  minutes  before  we  reached  Tibnin,  we 
could  look  back  down  Wady  'Ashur,  and  see  Tyre  in  the 
distance  on  the  sea-coast,  and  much  of  the  plain  back  of  it. 
Before  reaching  Tibnin,  there  is  a  rectangular  castle,  or 
khan,  with  round  towers  at  the  four  angles.     It  is  called  El 


ON  THE    WAY  TO  THE  FIELD.  121 

Hiisn,  which  means  simply  "  the  fortification/'  or  "  the 
castle,"  or  something  equivalent.  The  village,  which  is 
large,  lies  between  this  khan  and  the  castle  proper.  The 
latter  stands  on  a  sharp  hill  several  hundred  feet  above  the 
village,  and  commands,  from  its  summit,  a  fine  view  of  a 
wide  and  rich  country,  which  possesses  numerous  villages. 
Except  that  the  hills  are  not  covered  with  forests,  one 
might  easily  imagine  this  region  a  part  of  New  England. 
The  hills,  the  fertility,  the  cultivated  fields,  and  the  fine 
herds  of  cattle  and  horses  and  flocks  of  sheep,  indicate 
unusual  prosperity. 

Oiu"  sleep  at  Hunin  was  sound,  although  we  got  at  it 
rather  late,  and  under  cii'cumstanees  very  unfavorable  to 
rest.  We  had  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  oui-  faithful 
animals,  although  a  httle  cramped  for  room,  were  comfort- 
able in  the  goat-pen  that  I  have  described.  I  spent  two 
or  three  hoiu-s  in  examining  the  ruins  of  this  place,  and 
especially  of  this  famous  castle,  and  my  regret  is  that 
the  cold  and  wet  prevented  my  doing  the  work  more 
thoroughly. 

We  left  at  half-past  ten,  passed  Mes  (or  Mas)  in  one 
hour  and  fifty-five  minutes,  and  in  one  hour  and  thirty-five 
minutes  more  were  at  Kedes.  From  some  points  along  our 
route  we  had  a  splendid  view  of  the  Huleh  plain  and  the 
country  to  the  east  of  it,  but  a  good  deal  of  the  time  heavy 
clouds  hung  in  that  direction,  cutting  off  our  prospect,  and, 
after  passing  Kedes,  these  clouds  thickened  into  a  violent 
and  blinding  storm  of  rain  and  sleet.  On  Wady  'Uba, 
where  is  an  Algerine  village,  our  path  led  along  the  brow 
of  the  ravine,  whose  sides  were  almost  perpendieidar,  and 
dropped  down  to  a  depth  of  several  hundred  feet.  As 
the  path  was  clay,  our  position  was  dangerous,  for  the 
slightest  misstep  would  have  carried  us  to  the  bottom.  No 
such  thing  as  recovering  ourselves  would  have  been  pos- 
6 


122  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

sible  after  once  being  started.  Fortunately,  we  escaped 
on  tliat  side ;  but  on  the  other,  where  the  bank  was  only 
thirty  feet  high,  two  mules  went  down  before  my  eyes.  I 
did  not  expect  they  would  breathe  or  kick  again ;  but  the 
ground  was  soft,  and  they  were  not  injured.  It  took  a 
long  time  to  get  them  righted.  The  loads  had  to  be 
brought  up  the  hill  to  the  path  by  our  men,  and  the 
animals  reloaded,  and  this  in  a  cold,  driving  storm,  and 
with  only  wet  clay  earth  to  stand  on,  was  no  easy  task. 
The  storm  came  in  gusts,  at  intervals  of  twenty  minutes, 
all  the  afternoon  and  evening,  and  sometimes  they  were  so 
severe  that  our  horses  would  turn  around  with  then-  heads 
away  from  the  storm,  and  we  could  not  possibly  urge  them 
on.  Our  men,  thinly  clad  at  best,  as  muleteers  always  are, 
were  half  frozen,  and  I  did  not  know  but  they  would 
perish.  My  hiba  paid  for  itself  during  that  one  storm. 
This  is  a  native  cloak,  for  which  I  paid  five  dollars,  and, 
while  it  did  not  keep  me  warm,  it  kept  my  person  dry 
above  my  knees.  I  put  on  extra  clothing  in  the  morning, 
but,  protected  as  I  was,  I  have  seldom  suffered  so  much, 
even  when  I  have  been  exposed  to  our  violent  winter 
storms  in  New  England.  After  some  hours,  which  seemed 
as  long  as  weeks,  were  spent  in  stumbUng  and  slipping 
over  the  rough,  clayey,  and  unknown  roads,  we  saw  some 
lights,  and  with  a  good  deal  of  difficulty  made  our  way  to 
them.  Here  we  could  not  find  shelter,  but  were  told  to  go 
a  long  distance  in  the  opposite  direction,  where  shelter  for 
ourselves  and  animals  could  be  obtained.  After  half  an 
hour  or  more  we  saw  a  light  in  the  road,  and,  to  our  sur- 
prise, found  ourselves  very  near  the  town  of  Safed.  The 
light  was  from  a  lantern  carried  by  a  police  officer  whcm 
we  overtook,  and  who  proved  a  friend  in  our  need.  He 
conducted  us  to  a  coffee-shop,  which  was  still  open, 
although  it  was  at  such  a  late  hour  of  the  night ;  and  the 


ON  THE   WAY  TO  THE  FIELD.  123 

proprietor  made  a  large  fii'e  of  bushes  and  roots,  for  which 
we  were  exceedingiy  thankful.  Meantime,  the  officer  and 
our  servant  went  back  to  see  if  they  could  find  any  traces 
of  our  camp,  as  we  had  become  separated  in  the  dai'kness 
and  storm.  The  keeper  of  the  coffee-shop  made  gi*eat  quan- 
tities of  strong  black  coffee  for  us,  and  our  lunch,  which  we 
had  had  no  time  during  the  day  to  eat,  we  devoured  now 
with  a  keen  relish.  With  the  hot  coffee,  our  blankets, 
and  the  fire  on  the  ground  in  the  middle  of  the  shop,  we 
began  to  get  warm  and  to  realize  that  our  condition  was 
not  quite  so  hopeless  as  we  had  thought.  Our  camp  was 
heai"d  from  about  midnight ;  but  as  two  loads  had  been 
lost,  and  the  men  with  the  officer  had  to  go  back  for 
them,  it  was  not  till  three  o'clock  that  we  got  our 
expedition  together  in  a  large  khan  at  Safed.  Every- 
thing was  wet,  but  as  our  mattresses  were  not  soaked, 
we  placed  them  on  the  stones  by  the  wall  of  the  khan 
where  oiu*  animals  were,  and  lay  down  on  them.  The 
men  made  a  fire  near  the  entrance  of  the  khan,  and  it 
was  soon  proved  that  they  were  not  dead,  although  their 
exposure  and  suffering  had  been  great  duiing  all  the  after- 
noon and  night,  to  say  nothing  of  theu*  exposure  during 
the  night  previous.  I  put  a  table  between  myself  and  the 
mules,  to  prevent  their  stepping  on  me,  and  was  soon  fast 
asleep.  When  I  opened  my  eyes  it  was  light ;  and  I  was 
awakened  by  a  mule  that  had  been  fed,  dropping  his  barley- 
bag  down  upon  me  in  order  to  get  the  barley  at  the  bottom 
of  the  bag. 

On  the  morning  of  the  19th,  the  sun  rose  bright 
and  wai'm,  and  we  were  happier  men  than  we  were  the 
preceding  night.  With  a  soldier  belonging  to  the  place, 
we  went  about  the  town,  and  examined  the  old  castle, 
which  has  been  very  much  injured  by  earthquakes,  espec- 
ially the  severe  one  of  1837.     It  is  situated  on  a  conical 


124  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

hill,  which  in  turn  is  surrounded  by  a  moat,  and  must 
have  been  a  strong  and  imposing  fortress.  The  view  from 
it  is  wonderful,  overlooking  the  entire  Sea  of  Galilee,  a 
large  portion  of  the  Jordan  valley,  and  a  wide  range  of 
hills  in  both  Eastern  and  Western  Palestine.  This  officer 
gave  us  details  of  the  attack  on  Lieutenant  Conder's  party 
last  year.  He  thought  that  some  of  the  men  in  Conder's 
employ  were  overbearing,  and  that  their  conduct  provoked 
the  quarrel  which  came  near  producing  very  fatal  residts, 

I  learned  that  the  great  khan  where  we  stayed  was 
really  crowded  that  night.  It  seems  that  a  large  party 
of  natives,  with  their  mules,  which  we  had  seen  on  our 
way  from  Beirut  to  Sidon,  were  sheltered  there,  as  well 
as  ourselves  and  our  animals.  In  all,  there  were  no  less 
than  thirty  animals  in  that  one  building,  and  how  many 
men  I  do  not  know. 

We  left  Safed  at  10.30  A.  M.,  and  went  down  a 
long  hill,  descending  quite  rapidly  to  a  plateau  thickly 
covered  with  boidders,  over  which  it  was  not  easy  to 
make  our  way.  After  passing  this  and  descending 
again,  we  crossed  Wady  'Amud,  and  soon  reached  Abu 
Shusheh,  at  the  west  side  of  the  plain  of  Gennesaret. 
The  change  from  the  rough  experience  of  the  day  before 
to  the  June-like  weather  which  we  found  on  this  plain, 
and  the  June-like  grass  and  flowers  which  covered  it, 
was  most  welcome  to  our  animals  as  weU  as  to  onrselves. 

At  six  P.  M.,  we  were  at  our  camp,  ten  minutes  south 
of  the  modern  city  of  Tiberias.  We  had  canned  out 
the  programme  marked  out  for  us  before  leaving  Beirut, 
of  which  the  violent  storm  was  not,  however,  a  part. 
All  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  and  the  waU  of  hills 
back  of  it,  stood  out  clear  and  distinct  at  sunset,  and 
Hermon  appeared  so  grand  that  one  ignorant  of  the 
true  God  might  easily  be  led  to  look  up  to  it  with 
feelings  of  adoration. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Around  the  Sea  of  Galilee. 

Work  accomplished.  Caves  in  the  hill  behind  the  old  city.  A  hot-air 
cave  near  the  summit  of  this  hill,  and  a  steam-bath  in  the  same. 
Ancient  citadel.  Lines  of .  walls.  Extent  of  the  old  town.  The 
building  material  all  about  the  lake  is  basalt  rock.  Jewish  tombs. 
Reservoirs  on  the  Batiha  plain.  Arabs  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake. 
More  interested  in  powder  and  shot  than  in  antiquities.  Wild  boars. 
Crossing  the  lake  in  boats.  Visit  to  Mr.  Zellei',  in  Nazai'eth.  Hattin. 
Plain  El  Buttauf.  Sefm-iyeh  or  Sepphoris.  View  from  the  hill  at 
Nazareth.  "  Galilee  in  the  time  of  Chi-ist."  Haj  'All.  His  visit  to 
Mecca.  Collection  of  birds.  Jews.  Suffering  of  the  people  dui'ing 
the  cholera  season  last  year.  Our  table.  Teaching  our  cook  his 
art.  Eastern  customs.  Loading  mules.  Water-proof  cloaks.  Sad- 
dles. The  horseshoe.  Tribes  quiet  east  of  the  Jordan.  Eecord  of 
thermometer. 

Camp  at  Tiberias,  Monday,  February  28,  1876. 

DURING  our  stay  of  a  week  at  Tiberias,  every  point 
of  interest  abopt  the  lake  and  in  the  adjoining  hills 
has  been  visited.  I  have  been  greatly  interested  in  the 
old  city  of  Tiberias,  the  ruins  of  which  line  the  shore 
for  a  distance  of  two  miles,  and  extend  to  the  mountain 
on  the  west.  In  this  mountain,  which  rises  one  thousand 
feet  above  the  city,  almost  overhanging  it,  are  numerous 
large  caves,  where  people  have  lived  in  the  past,  and 
which,  with  a  httle  trouble,  could  again  be  made  comfort- 


126  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

able  abodes.  One  of  these  is  sixty  feet  long,  twelve  feet 
high,  and  fifteen  feet  wide.  The  face  of  the  rock  in 
front  of  it  is  terraced  so  as  to  give  twenty -four  feet  level 
extension  outside  the  mouth  of  the  cave.  Another  is 
seventy-five  feet  long, —  that  is,  it  extends  horizontally 
into  the  mountain  to  that  depth, —  and  is  ten  to  thirty 
feet  high.  The  entrance  has  been  partly  filled  and  in  it 
a  great  fig-tree  is  growing.  Along  one  side  of  the  inte- 
rior, a  platform  five  feet  wide  has  been  raised,  extending 
the  entire  length  of  the  cave,  and  near  the  front  part 
the  roof  rises  up  to  a  kind  of  natural  dome,  at  the  very 
top  of  which  the  light  appears.  In  another  part,  there 
is,  near  the  roof,  the  opening  to  another  large  cave,  going 
off  at  right  angles  to  the  one  just  described.  This  cave 
has  been  lined  with  plaster  or  very  thick  cement,  a  good 
deal  of  which  has  fallen  off.  On  that  which  remains 
there  are  herring-bone  and  other  styles  of  ornamentation. 
Still  another  cave,  of  similar  character,  was  over  one 
hundred  feet  long.  The  inaccessibility  of  these  caves 
was  a  fact  that  I  noticed  about  them.  I  reached  the 
entrance  of  one  at  the  risk  of  my  life.  It  is  possible 
that,  when  used,  they  could  be  reached  by  some  easier 
method  than  by  climbing  to  the  mouth.  The  entire  hill 
appears  to  be  perforated  with  them,  and  there  is  no 
reason  why  they  may  not  have  been  ver^^  extensive,  and 
utilized  in  ancient  times,  like  those  farther  north,  in  Wady 
Hammam,  which  in  Herod's  day  were  the  resort  of  robbers. 
Among  the  smaller  caves,  one  near  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  deserves  notice  from  the  fact  of  the  current  of 
steam  and  hot  air  which  proceeds  from  it.  When  I  found 
it  I  was  attracted  by  the  grass  and  bushes  which  were  in 
motion,  although  there  was  not  a  breath  of  air  stirring. 
I  supposed  some  shepherds  or  perhaps  robbers  were  inside, 
and  hesitated  about  venturing  into  it.     I   came   to   the 


ABOUND   THE   SEA    OF   GALILEE.  127 

month  on  the  upper  side  and  shouted  into  the  cave,  but 
heard  no  sound.  The  grass  and  flowers  were  in  motion, 
as  I  said,  and  the  rocks  were  dripping  with  moisture,  and 
when  I  had  passed  through  the  narrow  entrance  to  the 
inside,  I  was  thrown  into  a  perspiration  at  once.  It  was  a 
natural  steam-bath.  I  saw  openings  on  all  sides,  but  did 
not  venture  far.  The  rocks  were  too  slippery  for  me  to 
move  about  much  on  them  with  safety.  On  my  next  visit 
I  took  with  me  a  strong  muleteer,  and  a  long  rope  which 
I  tied  about  my  body  when  I  entered  the  cave.  I  took  with 
me  lights,  but  it  was  impossible  to  keep  them  burning,  and 
when  extinguished  the  matches  which  I  carried  with  me 
were  useless,  being  completely  soaked  by  the  steam.  The 
thermometer  showed  61°  outside  the  cave,  and  inside,  a  few 
feet  from  the  entrance,  86°.  I  did  not  go  far,  for  the  rocks 
were  slippery  and  the  pits  were  too  dangerous.  This  cave 
is  on  the  north  side  of  the  citadel-hill  of  old  Tiberias,  and 
near  the  top ;  fully  a  mile  and  a  half,  I  should  judge,  from 
the  hot  springs  on  the  shore  below.  Its  position,  as  well 
as  the  steam  and  strong  draft,  are  interesting  phenomena. 

This  point  to  which  I  have  referred  as  the  citadel-hill  is 
approached  on  both  sides  by  a  zigzag  wall,  that  on  the 
south  being  most  easily  traced.  At  some  of  the  angles  of 
this  waU  there  were  towers,  and  in  the  rear  of  each  of  these 
was  a  cistern.  Of  the  three  cisterns  which  I  measured, 
the  dimensions  were,  respectively,  nine  feet  by  nine  feet, 
twelve  feet  by  twelve  feet,  and  twelve  feet  by  fourteen 
feet.  This  wall,  or  portions  of  it;  at  least,  was  laid  in 
mortar,  and  large  masses  of  it,  have  fallen  to  the  valley 
below  without  being  broken  to  fragments.  Among  the 
ruins  of  the  old  city  I  foimd  a  good  many  cisterns, 
showing  that  the  inhabitants  in  former  times  did  not  de- 
pend entirely  upon  the  lake  for  their  supply  of  water.  The 
numerous  columns,  and  the  abundance  of  carved  work  that 


128  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

may  be  found  among  the  ruins,  I  regard  as  indicative  of 
the  former  elegance  of  the  city.  It  was  no  doubt  larger 
and  more  densely  inhabited  than  is  generally  thought  by 
those  who  have  not  given  the  subject  special  attention.  I 
should  say  that  the  city  coidd  easily  have  had  a  population 
of  fifty  thousand,  or  perhaps  eighty  thousand,  souls. 

Another  feature  worthy  of  notice  is,  that  the  material 
of  the  ruins  is  for  the  most  part  basalt  rock.  This,  indeed, 
is  the  general  character  of  the  ruins  all  about  the  lake,  and 
largely  so  of  the  hills  themselves.  At  Tel  Hum,  at  Abu 
Shusheh,  at  Kersa  on  the  eastern  shore,  with  which  should 
be  included  Fik,  Gamala,  and  Kefr  Harib,  and  at  all  other 
points,  hardly  any  other  building  material  is  seen.  1  have 
noticed  that  the  basalt  formation  commences  a  little  to  the 
east  of  Mount  Tabor  and  continues  to  Tiberias.  Also,  the 
ruins  at  Hattin,  and  the  rock  in  all  that  section,  and  for 
some  distance  to  the  west,  are  basalt.  On  the  shore  of  the 
great  plain  of  Batiha  at  the  north-west  corner  of  the  lake, 
the  sand  is  black,  having  been  formed  by  the  grinding  up 
of  basalt  boulders  and  rock.  This  sand  is  also  fvdl  of 
minute  shells. 

Among  the  ruins  there  are  in  the  rock,  behind  and  to  the 
north  of  the  hot  springs,  some  interesting  tombs.  The 
entrance  to  one  of  them  was  three  feet  square.  Over  it 
is  a  molding,  of  which  the  top  is  beautiful.  The  interior  is 
ten  feet  square,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  floor  is  a  i)it,  now 
nearly  filled  with  goat-dung.  On  the  side  opposite  the 
entrance  there  are  no  loculi,  but  on  the  right  and  left  sides, 
as  one  looks  into  the  tomb,  are  three  loadi,  or  six  in  all. 
This,  which  is  a  Jewish  tomb,  is  in  excellent  preservation. 

From  my  observations,  and  from  all  the  facts  I  can  learn 
of  the  natives,  I  judge  that  the  water  in  the  lake  is  at  least 
six  feet  lower  than  it  is  sometimes ;  and  furthermore,  on 
reading  Dr.  Tristram's  notes  of  his  visit  here  the  last  of 


AROUND   THE   SEA    OF   GALILEE.  129 

February  and  the  first  of  March,  1864,  and  what  he  says  of 
the  flowers  and  birds  he  saw,  and  the  heat  he  experienced, 
I  think  the  present  season  must  be  much  later.  But  while 
climbing  along  the  face  of  the  cliff  above  the  old  city, 
trying  to  examine  some  of  the  caves,  I  found  a  fig-tree 
which  had  new  shoots  on  it,  and  also  some  old  figs  which 
Avere  still  green.  It  was  loaded,  besides,  with  small  figs 
about  the  size  of  walnuts.  This  was  on  the  20th  of 
February. 

On  the  plain  of  Batiha,  which  is  a  counterpart  of  that 
of  Gennesaret  on  the  west  shore,  are  large  reservoirs, 
designed,  no  doubt,  to  retain  the  water  from  the  streams 
that  descend  from  the  hills,  until  it  was  needed  to  be  led 
thence,  by  canals,  for  the  purpose  of  irrigating  the  crops 
on  the  plain.  These  were  built  of  basalt  rock  laid  in 
cement,  and  the  only  one  I  measured  was  forty  feet  square. 

An  important  fact,  which  the  traveller  who  visits  only 
the  western  shore  of  the  lake  cannot  appreciate,  is  the 
extent  of  plain  country  on  the  east  side  of  the  Sea  of 
Gralilee,  from  the  entrance  of  the  Jordan  at  the  north, 
clear  around  to  its  exit  from  the  south  end.  A  por- 
tion of  this  land  is  under  cultivation,  but  where  it  is 
neglected  or  lies  idle  for  any  length  of  time,  weeds  and 
thistles  take  possession  of  the  soil,  and  in  some  places 
the  sidr  bush  plants  itself  and  stands  ready  to  thrust 
its  cruel  thorns  into  men,  beasts,  or  birds  that  are  so 
unfortunate  as  to  come  in  contact  with  it. 

We  found  a  good  many  Arabs  on  that  side  of  the  lake, 
among  them  the  Diab  and  the  Gaibat.  They  did  not 
molest  us.  At  the  same  time,  they  appeared  like  a  vaga- 
bond set,  and  not  like  the  nobler  Bedawin  of  the  deserts. 
Some  of  them  were  not  very  willing  to  answer  our  ques- 
tions, and  looked  with  suspicion  upon  me  when  I  was 
taking  notes  and  angles.  They  were  interested  in  guns, 
6* 


130  EAST  OF   THE  JORDAN. 

however,  and  wanted  ammunition,  and,  of  course,  did 
not  refuse  to  share  our  nuts  and  oranges,  which  we 
brought  with  us  for  a  hmch.  They  tokl  us  there  were 
plenty  of  boars  in  the  bushes  along  Wady  Semakli,  and 
offered  to  beat  the  bush  for  them,  and  if  they  found 
any,  we  should  pay,  otherwise  not.  As  our  special  work 
was  of  more  importance  than  boar-hunting,  we  declined 
then*  offer.  When  these  men  beg  for  powder,  it  is  con- 
venient to  say  that  oirrs  is  made  up  into  cartridges  which 
would  be  of  little  use  to  them.  But  for  this  fact,  they 
might  be  very  troublesome  in  their  demands. 

We  crossed  the  lake  several  times  in  boats,  but  found  it 
rather  tedious  whenever  we  had  to  depend  solely  on  our 
oarsmen.  The  boats  are  not  made  for  speed,  and  the 
natives  will  not  exert  themselves  without  special  cause, 
under  which  head  our  strong  desire  to  get  over  the  lake  in 
the  shortest  possible  time  woidd  not  be  reckoned  by  them. 
But  whenever  a  breeze  came  up,  and  we  could  hoist  a  sail, 
monotony  and  tediousness  would  vanish,  and  the  trip 
would  become  dehghtful.  The  traditional  ''  one  boat  "  on 
the  lake  has  multiplied  of  late  into  a  half-dozen  or  more, 
and  sometimes  I  have  seen  several  sail  at  once.  These 
boats  are  made  in  Beiriit  or  some  of  the  seaport  towns,  and 
brought  here  on  the  backs  of  camels. 

Wishing  to  consult  Mr.  Zeller,  the  missionary  long  resi- 
dent in  Nazareth,  concerning  the  villages  and  the  tribes  east 
of  the  Jordan,  with  some  of  which  he  has  connection,  I  went 
to  Nazareth  one  day,  and  returned  the  next  morning.  I 
visited  Hattin,  crossed  the  Buttauf  plain,  visited  Sef urij-eh, 
and  went  thence  to  Nazareth.  Some  of  the  way  the 
fields  were  carpeted  mth  red  and  white  anemones,  and  a 
portion  of  El  Buttauf  is  covered  with  fine  old  olive-groves. 
This  plain  is  broad,  free  from  stone  and  exceedingly  fer- 
tile, and  could  be  cut  up  into  several  hundred  large,  fine 


AROUND   THE  SEA    OF   GALILEE.  131 

farms.  It  is  said,  however,  to  be  very  unhealthy,  and  the 
village  of  Kana  el  Jelil,  on  the  north  side  of  it,  is — so  Mr. 
ZeUer  informed  me — nearly  or  qnite  deserted  on  this  ac- 
count. The  situation  of  Sefuriyeh  is  a  charming  one,  and 
the  country  al>out  it  is  rich.  Its  distance  from  Nazareth 
is  only  about  three  miles,  and  the  road  is  easy.  With 
Mr.  Zeller  I  went  to  the  hill  back  of  Nazareth,  and 
noted  carefully  the  places  that  can  be  seen  from  that 
elevated  position,  as  I  had  done  on  a  former  \'isit.  Naza- 
reth has  improved  greatly  in  the  ten  years  since  I  last  vis- 
ited the  place,  and  not  only  new  mission  buildings,  but  the 
general  enterprise  and  thrift  manifested  in  the  people,  are 
evidences  that  the  labors  of  these  patient  workers  in  the 
Master's  cause  have  brought  forth  their  legitimate  fruit. 
On  my  return,  I  visited  the  Greek  and  Latin  convents 
on  Mount  Tabor.  The  people  in  them  have  fine  vegetable- 
gardens  and  a  good  many  fruit-trees,  and  appear  to  live 
in  a  comfortable  way.  Among  the  fruit-trees  the  almond 
was  in  full  bloom,  presenting  an  attractive  and  lovely 
sight.  The  chapel  of  the  Latin  convent  is  new  ;  indeed,  it 
has  but  just  been  completed,  and  the  walls  are  hardly  dry. 
The  friends  here  also  went  with  me  to  the  old  church 
which  has  recently  been  unearthed  on  the  summit  of  Tabor. 
One  would  not  think  it  possible,  but  it  was  covered  to  a 
depth  of  ten  feet.  It  has  twelve  steps  at  the  entrance,  by 
which  one  descends  to  the  proper  floor  of  the  church,  and 
the  apse  at  the  east  end  is  still  perfect,  as  are  also  the 
walls.  Tabor  was  once  fortified.  In  fact,  it  was  always 
one  of  the  strong  fortresses  of  the  country.  Its  wall,  which 
remains  in  ruins,  was  surrounded  by  a  trench,  and  many 
bevelled  stones  appear. 

In  1874  I  published  in  the  "Bibliotheca  Sacra"  some  arti- 
cles on  "  Galilee  in  the  Time  of  Christ,"  in  which  I  had  occa- 
sion to  treat  of  its  ancient  populousness  and  its  natural 


132  EAST   OF   THE  JORDAN. 

fertility.  To  some  who  read  this  essay,  it  seemed  that  I 
had  exaggerated  these  matters  beyoud  what  the  absolute 
facts  would  justif;y .  Mr.  ZeUer  had  read  the  articles,  and  I 
asked  his  opinion  of  my  statements  on  these  points.  He 
replied  at  once:  "With  regard  to  the  natural  fertility  of 
Galilee,  you  have  understated  the  facts."  This  gentleman 
has  had  eighteen  years'  experience  in  this  province,  and  is 
a  careful  observer  of  all  facts  which  would  throw  light  on 
the  former  condition  of  this  favored  region. 

What  a  multitude  of  historical  sites  can  be  brought 
under  the  eye  during  a  few  hours'  travel  in  this  ancient 
land !  Hattin,  where  the  Crusaders'  cause  was  lost ;  Cana 
of  Galilee,  where  our  Lord's  first  miracle  was  wrought ; 
Sepphoris,  the  capital  of  this  province  during  all  the  early 
part  of  Christ's  life ;  Nazareth,  the  home  of  Jesus ;  Tabor, 
the  plain  of  Ezdraelon,  the  Mediterranean  and  some  of  its 
seaports,  Carmel  and  the  hills  of  Samaria,  Gilboa  and  Nain, 
the  lake  of  Tiberias,  the  valley  of  the  Jordan,  the  moun- 
tains of  Gilead,  the  great  plains  of  Bashan,  and  Heimon's 
lofty  dome, — these  and  a  large  number  of  other  places  of 
sacred  or  historical  interest  one  can  look  down  upon  frcm 
two  or  three  of  the  lofty  heights  in  northern  Palestine. 

We  found  a  man  here  who  has  served  us  as  a  guide  and 
hunter,  and  in  whom  I  am  greatly  interested.  His  name  is 
Haj  'Ali.  He  is  tall,  erect,  thin,  with  gray  mustache  and 
chin  unshaven,  and  appears  to  be  about  sixty  years  of  age, 
although  if  he  were  an  American  I  should  say  he  was  sev- 
enty. In  manner  he  is  dignified,  calm,  and  patient ;  a  capi- 
tal specimen  of  a  hunter ;  is  very  respectful,  and  minds  his 
own  business.  He  came  from  Africa,  was  an  Algerine  by 
birth,  and  as  some  of  his  people  quarrelled,  tlie  family  was 
obliged  to  flee.  He  had  been  a  great  friend  of  Aghyle  Aghn, 
a  former  famous  sheikh  in  the  region  south  of  Tiberias,  and 
he  told  us  many  of  his  experiences  in  the  wars  which  took 


ABOUND   THE    SEA    OF   GALILEE.  133 

place  in  his  early  and  middle  life.  He  agrees  to  go  with  us 
as  far  as  Um  Keis,  but  does  not  think  it  best  for  him  to  go 
below  that  point,  for  he  "has  blood  on  his  hands/' — so  he 
himself  says, — from  the  time  of  the  sheikh  just  mentioned. 
As  to  his  wife  and  children,  he  says  they  are  all  buried  on 
the  hill-side  above  the  town.  He  is  intelligent,  but  has 
no  regrets  for  what  is  past  so  far  as  I  could  learn,  no 
plans  for  the  present  and  no  hopes  for  the  future.  He 
prays  often,  and  looks  towards  Mecca ;  but  I  wonder  if  he 
knows  anything  of  God,  or  if  his  heart  is  light  when  he 
looks  up  to  the  sky,  towards  the  Fathei*'s  house. 

Besides  Haj  'Ali,  there  are  men  and  boys  who  come 
around  our  tents  with  guns,  and  who,  if  we  offer  them  a 
few  pennies,  will  hunt  for  us  all  day.  Sometimes  they 
bring  us  valuable  birds.  Among  the  birds  which  we 
have  secured  are  harriers,  quail,  Greek  partridges,  spar- 
rows, larks,  bulbuls  (the  nightingale  of  Palestine),  star- 
lings, the  red-headed  woodpecker,  great  gray  shrikes 
and  two  other  species,  wheat-ear,  cormorant,  the  gorgeous 
Smyrna  kingfisher,  black  and  white  kingfisher  and  the 
small  kingfisher  or  Alcedo  ispida,  the  great  crested  grebe, 
the  little  grebe  or  dab-chick,  the  common  gull,  and  one 
eagle- guU  which  spreads  five  feet  eleven  inches.  The  last 
bird  the  natives  call  the  "  donkey  of  the  sea,"  because, 
they  say,  it  brays  like  a  donkey,  and  they  are  certainly 
correct  in  their  description  of  this  bird's  strange,  strong 
eaU.  We  have  a  few  birds  besides,  of  which  we  do  not  know 
the  proper  names.  Archaeology  and  topography  have  the 
first  claim  upon  our  attention,  and  after  them,  natural  his- 
tory. On  this  account,  our  collection  is  smaHer  than  it 
would  otherwise  be.  While  about  our  work  we  have  seen 
many  other  birds  —  ducks,  herons,  griffon  vultures,  which 
are  abundant  in  Wady  Hammam ;  also  foxes,  gazelles, 
wolves,   wild  boars,  and  jackals.     The  last  come  near  us 


134  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

every  night,  and  their  number  is  not  small.  Hyenas  exist 
in  the  caves  in  the  mountain  behind  the  old  city,  and 
they  have  their  hiding-places  also  among  its  ruins. 

I  have  had  a  long  conversation  with  a  few  of  the  Jews 
here,  and  learned  something  of  their  life  in  the  differ- 
ent countries  from  wliich  these  particular  ones  came. 
They  come  hither  to  be  healed  by  the  water;  at  all  events, 
to  rest  and  to  die.  With  these  men  I  visited  the  graves 
of  the  famous  rabbis  who  have  been  buried  at  Tiberias. 
During  the  year  just  past  the  place  suffered  a  good  deal 
from  cholera.  Such  of  the  inhabitants  as  could  get  away 
fled.  Still,  one  hundi'ed  and  fifty  people  died,  and  as 
the  entire  population  is  small  at  any  time,  the  mor- 
tality must  have  been  great  in  proportion  to  the  number 
of  people  left  in  the  town.  The  situation  of  the  modern 
city  is  very  low,  the  houses  are  small,  the  streets  nar- 
row and  filthy,  and  the  wonder  is  that  the  residents 
do  not  all  j)erish.  While  here  we  have  been  able  to 
supply  our  table  with  birds  and  fish,  and  our  living  has 
consequently  been  far  better  than  the  average  in  our  tent 
life.  We  obtained  also  some  nice  mutton,  and  I  have 
succeeded  in  teaching  our  cook  how  to  prepare  a  chop  with 
which  even  an  Englishman  would  be  delighted.  This  is 
quite  a  point  gained,  so  far  as  our  future  is  concerned,  for 
the  natives  do  not  depend  for  food  on  beef  or  mutton,  and 
their  meats  are  generally  ruined  hy  their  strange  methods 
of  cooking ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  in  all  that  legitimately 
pertains  to  the  country  and  life  of  the  people,  their  own 
methods  are,  no  doubt,  the  best.  Set  Americans  or  English- 
men at  loading  and  driving  camels,  and  they  woidd  kill  the 
animals  in  less  than  a  week.  The  natives,  however,  not 
only  know  how  to  spare  the  lives  of  these  beasts  of  bm-- 
den,  but  also  how  to  get  out  of  them  the  most  work.  The 
saddles  for  the  camels  and  mides  look  awkward  and  clumsy. 


ABOUND   THE   SEA    OF   GALILEE. 


135 


yet  tliey  are  the  result  of  long  experience,  and  are  the 
most  comfortable  for  the  backs  of  the  animals  that  could 
be  devised.  It  takes  Europeans  a  good  while  to  learn  this. 
Arranging  and  tying  bundles  or  the  loads  for  the  pack- 
animals  is  a  special  art,  with  which  Yankees,  with  all 
their  ingenuity,  would  make  wretched  work.  The  'ada,  or 
water-proof  of  the  country,  is  not  only  made  by  the  natives, 
but  is  superior  to  any  mackintosh  ever  worn.  Native  cloaks 
of  this  kind  are  warm,  protect  from  the  rain  equally  well, 
and  will  serve  as  a  comfortable  blanket  at  night,  which 
is  not  true  of  a  rubber  cloak.  Again,  the  horseshoe  is 
adapted  to  the  needs  of  the  animals  on  such  roads  as 
exist  here.  A  horse  shod  as  they  are  in  England  or  Amer- 
ica would  have  his  hoofs  and  feet 
ruined  in  one  hour  on  any  Syrian 
road.  This  enumeration  of  facts,  in 
illustration  of  the  statement  I  have 
made,  could  be  carried  much  far- 
ther,— to  their  method  of  plough- 
ing and  irrigating,  their  vessels  for 
holding  water,  their  clothing,  and 
some  other  things.  The  horses  are 
perfectly  acquainted  with  the  roads, 
and  know  how  to  manage  them- 
selves on  the  same ;  but  I  have  seen 
travellers  get  into  trouble  by  trying 
to  dictate  to  the  horses  or  to  show 
them  what  to  do  on  a  broken  or 
dangerous  path. 

Our  exploration,  which  has  been 
largely  confined  to  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  is  completed, 
and  likewise  our  preparations  for  our  work  in  the  Jordan 
valley  and  beyond.  So  far  as  I  could  learn  from  Mr.  Zeller, 
or  from,  Haj  'Ali  and  our  horsemen,  who  are  going  with  us 


Syrian   Horseshoe    and   Nails. 


136  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

for  a  few  days  at  least,  the  people  and  tribes  in  the  region 
where  we  propose  to  operate  are  all  quiet,  and  I  hope  no 
obstacle  of  any  kind  will  arise  to  impede  us  in  our  duties. 

Record   of   Thermometer 
From   February   15   to  February  29,    1876. 

F.     at 


15 

14^  C. 

57 

15i 

60 

15i 

60 

16 

lOi 

51 

21 

70 

20i 

69 

17 

15 

59 

18 

65 

18 

9 

48 

12 

54 

19 

7 

45 

20 

68 

151 

60 

20 

101 

51 

18 

65 

151 

60 

21 

91 

49 

21 

70 

16 

61 

23 

12 

54 

161 

62 

16 

61 

25 

151 

60 

26 

161 

62 

14 

57 

27 

111 

53 

17 

63 

14 

57 

28 

12 

54 

211 

71 

29 

11 

52 

22 

72 

211 

71 

131 

56 

8 

a.  m. 

at  Beirut. 

1 

p.  m. 

Mouth  of  the  Damur. 

8 

p.  m. 

Sidou. 

8 

a.  m. 

1 

p.  m. 

'Ain  el  Kantara. 

7 

p.  m. 

Tyi-e. 

7 

a.  m. 

2 

p.  m. 

Tibnin. 

8 

a.  m. 

Huuin. 

12.30 

p.  m. 

Mes. 

8 

a.  m. 

Safed. 

3.15 

p.  m. 

Abu    Shusheh,     on    the 

edge 

of  the  plain  of  Gennesaret. 

6.15 

13.  m. 

Camp  at  Tiberias. 

7 

a.  m. 

12.30 

p.  m. 

6.30 

p.  m. 

6.30 

a.  m. 

2 

p.  m. 

Wady  Fik 

6.30 

p.  m. 

in  camp. 

7 

a.  m. 

1 

p.  m. 

6.30 

p.  m. 

6.30 

p.  m. 

8 

a.  m. 

6 

p.  m. 

7 

a.  m; 

12.30 

p.  m. 

5.30 

p.  m. 

7 

a.  m. 

1 

p.  m. 

at  Tell  HAm. 

7 

a.  m. 

11.30 

a.  m. 

at  foot  of  the  hills  on  the 
east   side  of  the  Ghor, 
on  the  road  to  Gadara. 

12.30 

p.  m. 

El  Hamma. 

6.30 

p.  m. 

our    camp    at    the    hot 
spring's  of  El  Hamma. 

CHAPTER  XI. 

El  Hamma,  an  Ancient  Watering-Place. 

Loaving  Tiberias.  Arabs  are  eai'ly  risers.  Feelings  of  Christian  and 
Jew  by  this  hallowed  lake.  A  volunteer  hunter  frightens  the  birds. 
View  of  the  Jordan  valley  from  the  ancient  mound  at  Kerak.  Eieh 
fields,  inviting  to  the  cultivator.  Arabs  and  their  flocks.  Euined 
bridge.  Semaldi  and  its  earth-granaries.  Hills  of  the  Foxes.  Du- 
weir,  or  the  Little  Convent.  The  Menadireh  and  its  wild  gorge.  Layers 
of  basalt  and  limestone.  Eoman  road.  Sheltered  nooks  in  the  valley. 
El  Hamma,  or  the  hot  springs  of  Gadara.  Bathing.  Floating  island. 
Reports  of  pa.lms  and  pomegi'anates  up  the  valley.  The  retem  shrub. 
Ai'ab  superstition.  Writing  letters  and  jom-nals  difficult  for  a  busy 
explorer. 

Camp  at  El  Hamma,  or  the  Hot  Springs  of  Gadara, 
Tuesday,  February  29,  1876. 

THE  morning  was  fresh  and  beautiful.  Hermon 
appeared  in  all  its  massive  grandeur,  and  in  the 
clear  hght  all  the  smaller  mountains  and  hills  were  sharply- 
defined.  The  Arabs  are  early  risers,  and  if  they  had  a  taste 
for  such  things  they  might  enjoy  the  splendid  scenery  of 
the  early  morning ;  but  probably  other  motives  call  them 
from  their  beds. 

It  was  with  a  good  deal  of  regret  that  I  left  the  Sea  of 
Galilee.  Even  in  its  desolation,  I  can  enjoy  the  Sabbath  on 
its  quiet,  sacred  shores  better  than  in  the  finest  church  or 


138  EAST   OF   THE  JORDAN. 

catliedral  in  any  civilized  land.  To  the  Jew  it  means  less 
than  to  the  Chi-istian,  yet  I  can  sympathize  with  the  feel- 
ings which  lead  the  Israelites  of  to-day  to  seek  Tiberias  and 
the  shores  of  its  charming  lake  as  a  place  of  residence  and 
bnrial. 

In  fifty  minntes  after  leaving  camp,  we  were  out  of  sight 
of  Tiberias,  and  in  one  hour  and  forty  minutes  we  were  at 
the  point  where  the  river  leaves  the  lake,  near  the  mound 
called  Kerak,  which  represents  the  ancient  Tarichea.  Birds 
and  water-fowl  could  be  seen  in  flocks  at  the  south  end  of 
the  lake,  and  very  near  the  shore.  Among  them  were  a 
large  number  of  cormorants,  of  which  species  we  had  hereto- 
fore secured  but  one,  and  were  anxious  to  obtain  more.  One 
of  our  native  hunters — not  Haj  'Al'i,  ah-eady  referred  to — 
crept  up  within  easy  range  and  fli^ed  a  double  shot  at  them, 
but  without  effect.  We  learned  hj  experience,  on  more 
than  one  occasion,  that  this  man  could  fii-e  his  gun  as 
bravely  as  the  best  hunter  in  the  world,  and  succeed  in 
frightening  the  game  equally  with  the  very  poorest.  Hence, 
after  an  experience  of  a  few  days,  we  found  we  coiild  dis- 
pense with  his  services,  although  by  his  own  account  his 
reputation  as  a  "  good  shot"  was  "very  good." 

The  bank  of  the  lake  at  the  south  end  is  thirty  to  forty 
feet  in  height,  and  perpendicular.  The  soil  is  alluvial,  and 
in  it  animals  and  bii'ds  burrow  and  make  their  nests. 
Between  this  bank  and  the  water's  edge  there  is  a  narrow 
margin  of  shore,  along  which  one  may  ride  or  walk. 

The  exit  of  the  river  from  the  lake  is  winding  and 
gradual,  and  it  lies  quite  low  in  its  narrow  bed.  The 
banks,  except  on  the  north  side  near  the  point  of  exit,  are 
not  lined  with  reeds  or  bushes,  and  the  departure  of  the 
famous  river  from  the  Sea  of  Galilee  is  by  no  means 
imposing.  But  if  the  river  is  insignificant,  the  opening  of 
the  valley  itself  is  grand.    A  great  plain  stretches  to  the 


EL  HAMMA.  139 

east  as  far  as  the  hills,  and  to  the  south  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach.  The  valley  is  spread  out  like  a  prauie,  and 
the  walls  of  mountains  which  line  it  on  either  side  rise  at 
certain  points  into  bold  peaks,  and  stretch  away  to  the 
south  until  lost  in  the  distance.  Some  miles  below  us, 
several  large  herds  of  cattle  and  camels  were  seen,  and 
half  a  dozen  groups  of  black  tents. 

The  American  farmer  would  look  with  envious  eyes  upon 
any  of  the  fertile  portions  of  this  valley  ;  and  one  has  but 
to  see  them  to  account  for  the  interest  which  Lot  felt  in 
the  rich  plains  far  to  the  south. 

About  twenty  minutes  south  of  the  exit  of  the  river  is  a 
ruined  bridge,  to  which  reference  has  often  been  made  in 
books  of  travel.  The  people  of  the  region  call  it  Um 
Kanatir,  and  say  it  was  used  as  an  aqueduct.  It  has  ten 
piers,  besides  the  abutments  at  each  end,  and  was  once 
a  fine  structure  on  the  great  thoroughfare  from  Tiberias 
to  Gadara  and  the  east.  The  river  at  this  point  is  quite 
wide,  and  we  forded  it  with  ease,  the  water  coming  only 
to  the  saddles. 

Thii'ty  minutes  from  the  ruined  bridge  is  a  place  called 
Semakh,  situated  at  the  very  edge  of  the  bank  of  the 
lake.  I  should  judge  that  in  a  few  years  all  that  is  left 
of  it  will  be  washed  away.  From  Kerak,  at  the  south 
end  of  the  lake  on  the  west  side,  Semakh  looked  like 
an  important  place.  It  is,  however,  merely  a  small  col- 
lection of  mud  houses.  But  it  has  also  a  few  ruins, — 
fragments  of  basalt  columns,  capitals,  doors,  and  squared 
stones,  which  were  doubtless  brought  from  the  east,  or 
from  some  ruined  city  about  the  lake  itself.  The  place  has 
many  pits  or  holes,  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in  depth,  dug  in  the 
soft  earth,  and  lined  with  straw  or  canes  in  such  a  way  as 
to  protect  the  grain  which  was  designed  to  be  stored  in 
them.    They  appear  now  to  be  mostly  in  a  ruined  condition, 


140  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

and  were  so  numerous  that  it  was  exceedingly  dangerous 
riding  among  them.  I  expressed  my  surprise  that  grain 
should  be  put  into  such  receptacles  in  such  a  soil  as  this, 
but  was  assured  that  it  kept  perfectly  well.  But  if  it  was 
in  no  danger  from  the  moisture,  I  should  think  it  would  be 
injured  by  the  burrowing  of  animals,  which  would  have  no 
trouble  in  getting  at  it.  The  plain  immediately  about  the 
ruin  just  described  bears  the  same  name,  or  Ard  es  Semakh. 

From  this  point  one  sees,  to  the  eastward,  a  small  ruin 
on  the  shore,  about  thirty  minutes  distant,  called  Khurbet 
es  Sumrah,  and  also  what  appear  to  be  foot-hills,  but  which 
are  really  separate  from  them,  being  situated  in  the  plain, 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  mountains,  and  which  are  called 
Hills  of  the  Foxes.  As  we  crossed  the  plain,  the  black  tents 
of  the  Arabs,  which  we  had  seen  in  the  distance  from 
Kerak,  increased  in  nmnber;  and,  besides  the  cattle  and 
camels,  there  were  a  great  many  sheep,  goats,  horses,  donkeys, 
and  mules,  together  with  the  men  who  were  guarding  them. 

The  great  plain  before  us — and,  in  fact,  all  the  north  end 
of  the  Cxhor — is  entirely  free  from  stones.  This  is  a 
remarkable  statement  to  be  made  with  regard  to  any  por- 
tion of  rough,  rocky  Palestine.  In  a  little  over  one  hour 
from  the  ruined  bridge,  going  at  a  brisk  walk,  we  began  to 
enter  the  hills  on  the  road  leading  to  Um  Keis,  or  Gadara. 
On  our  right  was  the  ruin  called  Duweir,  or  the  Little  Con- 
vent. The  budding  material  is  basalt,  and  the  stones  are 
large  and  well  cut.  The  tell  on  which  this  convent  stands 
is  covered  with  squared  blocks  of  the  same  material.  Two 
miles  down  the  valley  is  another  ruin,  called  Yugana,  or 
Yukna,  and  also  a  fountain  of  the  same  name. 

The  great  wady  which  we  entered  here  is  called  'Adasiyeh 
below,  and  Menadireh  in  the  upper  portion.  The  stream  is 
a  large  one,  and  has  borne  in  the  past  the  names  Hieromax 
and  Yarmuk.     The  river  is  larger  than  the  Jordan  above 


EL  HAMMA.  141 

Lake  Tiberias.  Between  Duweii-  and  El  Hamma,  or  the 
Hot  Springs,  we  find  traces  of  the  old  Roman  road,  which 
is  now,  for  the  most  part,  in  ruins.  The  Romans  were  a 
people  who  would  have,  at  any  cost,  a  comfortable  and  easy 
road  by  which  to  reach  the  beautiful  pleasure  and  health 
resort  where  our  tents  are  now  pitched. 

As  we  began  to  wind  up  the  gorge  of  the  river,  new 
scenes  of  gi'andeur  burst  upon  us  at  every  turn.  One  great 
bend  in  the  stream  was  a  mUe  in  extent,  and  we  conld  see 
the  entire  distance  at  a  single  glance, — the  water  dashing  at 
the  bottom  of  the  perpendicular  cliff  which  rose  three  hun- 
dred feet  above  it,  and  still  above  that  could  be  traced  the 
narrow  path  along  which  we  were  to  go.  A  singular  effect, 
by  contrast,  was  presented  by  the  rock  formation,  as  exposed 
on  the  face  of  the  cliff  just  referred  to,  where  a  stratum  of 
fifty  or  one  hundred  feet  in  thickness,  of  pure  white  lime- 
stone, was  overlaid  by  one  of  black  basalt,  for  a  hundred 
feet  more.  At  some  points  one's  head  would  swim,  on  look- 
ing down  several  hundred  feet,  to  the  bottom  of  the  gorge. 
Just  before  reaching  El  Hamma,  the  mountains  come  close 
together,  forming  a  nari-ow  pass.  Before  that,  however, 
was  a  small  valley,  in  which  was  an  encampment  of  Arabs, 
and  theii'  cattle  and  black  tents  looked  from  our  high  road 
like  mere  specks  on  the  green  gi'ass.  Their  position  seemed 
a  very  secure  one,  and  how  the  place  was  reached  we  could 
not  discover ;  but  doubtless  there  is  some  mountain  path 
leading  to  this  secluded  valley.  There  they  enjoy  water, 
warmth,  and  grass,  and  freedom  from  molestation,  which 
are  all  the  blessings  they  can  ask  of  Nature.  Just  above 
this  narrow  place  is  the  plain  or  valley  of  El  Hamma. 
Next  east  of  that  is  M'Khaibeh.  Thus  the  valley  is  formed 
of  a  succession  of  wild  gorges,  high  mountains  on  either 
side,  perpendicular  cliffs,  bold,  rugged  headlands  project- 
ing into  the  valley,  and  small,  quiet  plains,  far  down  out  of 


142  HJAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

the  reach  of  mountain  storms,  fertile,  sheltered,  and  peace- 
ful. A  little  farther  along  we  saw  a  trail  on  the  mountain- 
side opposite,  and  animals  and  men  passing.  They  seemed 
very  small  from  where  we  were ;  and  doubtless  the  path  or 
trail  which  they  were  following  led  down  to  the  sheltered  nook 
in  the  valley  below  El  Hamma,  which  I  have  just  described. 

We  wound  around  the  head  of  a  great  chasm,  and  then 
descended  rapidly  over  the  rugged  basaltic  rocks,  and  in 
five  minutes  were  at  our  camping-place,  near  the  remains 
of  the  Roman  baths,  at  some  of  the  most  famous  hot 
springs  of  antiquity.  From  our  elevated  path  on  the  moun- 
tain-side we  had  seen  the  river  far  below  us,  also  the  hot 
springs,  and  the  two  large  streams  which  flowed  from  the 
same  into  the  river  itself.  At  the  distance  of  two  miles, 
the  water  in  these  springs  and  streams  leading  fi'om  them 
had  a  most  intense  green  color,  and  the  effect  on  the  land- 
scape, from  the  distance  just  mentioned,  was  very  striking. 
When,  however,  we  reached  the  springs,  the  water  was  as 
clear  as  crystal.  Doubtless  the  incrustations  on  the  stones 
at  the  bottom  of  the  spi-ings  gave  the  water  this  peculiar 
appearance. 

On  reaching  our  tents,  we  went  at  once  to  the  hottest  of 
this  group  of  springs,  which  are  all  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  where  the  water  is  115°  in  temperature,  and  bathed 
our  hands  and  faces,  and  promised  ourselves  a  warm  bath 
just  as  soon  as  we  could  get  time  for  it. 

We  had  our  lunch  under  a  great  sidr  or  dom  tree,  close 
by  which  were  two  fine  palms ;  but  scattered  over  the  small 
plain  were  the  remains  of  many  more  of  these  noble  trees, 
and  doubtless  in  former  times  they  existed  here  in  abun- 
dance. About  us  were  columns,  capitals,  and  other  ruins 
of  former  elegant  buildings,  and  just  behind  our  tents 
were  the  remains  of  the  theatre,  where  the  frequenters  of 
this  ancient  and  delightful  watering-place  were  once  enter- 


EL  HAMMA.  143 

tained.  "WTien  I  came  to  batlie  iu  the  hot  spring  just 
referred  to,  I  found  it  was  ahnost  too  much  of  a  good  thing. 
Van  Dyck,  however,  could  bear  it,  which  is  one  evidence 
that  he  is  more  of  a  native  than  I  am.  The  Ai-ahs  strip 
and  plunge  in,  and  even  sit  in  the  water.  People  passing 
by  also  stop  and  bathe,  and  the  place  is  visited  by  many 
persons  from  a  distance,  as  the  waters  are  supposed  to  have 
heahng  efficacy  for  many  complaints.  The  largest  spring- 
is  103°  in  temperature,  and  in  my  judgment  is  by  far  the 
pleasantest  of  all  these  bathing-places.  The  water  is  not  too 
warm,  and  is  deep  enough  to  swim  in.  This  evening  I 
swam  in  it  over  fifty  strokes  in  a  straight  line,  the  water  all 
the  way  being  about  six  feet  in  depth.  At  lunch-time  I 
noticed  in  this  spring  a  beautiful  island,  several  yards  in 
diameter,  covered  with  tall  reeds ;  but  this  evening,  when  1 
bathed  there,  I  was  surprised  to  find  that  this  island  was  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  pond.  It  was,  in  fact,  a  floating  island. 

At  M'Khaibeh,  up  the  valley,  our  Arabs  say  that  there 
are  plenty  of  fine  j)abns  and  pomegranates,  and  they  are 
enthusiastic  in  their  descriptions  of  the  beautiful  locality. 
Just  there,  also,  the  stream  is  said  to  be  called  the  M'Khai- 
beh River. 

On  the  route  up  the  valley  we  saw  a  very  pretty  shrub, 
with  long  green  twigs  rising,  tall  and  slender,  fi'om  a 
single  base,  hke  a  cluster  of  willows.  This  is  the  reteni 
bush,  which  grows  so  abundantly  along  the  Zerka,  and 
farther  south,  in  the  region  east  of  the  Dead  Sea.  The 
flower  is  small,  but  very  fragrant.  The  blossoms  are  pro- 
fuse, and  resemble  the  arbutus  in  color  and  smell.  There 
is  one  kidney-shaped  seed  in  each  pod.  This  shrub  does  not 
gi'ow  very  high,  and  on  the  Hnibs  are  long  twigs,  which  are 
loaded  with  blossoms.  The  twigs  of  some  of  these,  I 
observed,  had  been  tied  in  knots.  The  Arabs  have  a  super- 
stition about  it,  which  is  that  if  a  man  can  tie  a  knot  in  a 


144  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

twig  with  one  hand,  he  will  marry  two  wives;  but  if  he 
has  to  use  both  hands,  he  will  not  be  married  at  all.  This 
superstition  comes  the  nearest  to  romance  of  anything  that 
I  have  seen  in  Arab  or  Bedawin  life.  Our  Arabs  told  us, 
further,  that  if  the  goats  ate  of  this  shrub,  and  a  person 
afterwards  drank  their  milk,  it  would  make  his  head  giddy. 
One  of  our  men  attempted  to  tie  a  knot  in  the  twigs  "vvith 
one  hand,  and  failed,  whereupon  all  the  rest  who  saw  him 
laughed  at  his  failure. 

I  believe  that  writing  letters  and  journals  is  one  of  the 
most  difficult  of  the  tasks  which  fall  to  the  lot  of  an 
explorer.  One's  duties  here  are  such  that  one  soon  gets  out 
of  the  literary  mood.  Other  matters  are  too  urgent  to 
allow  of  writing  well,  and  sometimes  they  prevent  one  from 
wi'itiug  at  all.  At  the  same  time,  a  great  deal  of  wi-iting 
must  be  done.  The  work  of  the  day  is  not  ended,  however 
late  it  may  be,  until  the  journal  has  been  written ;  and  this 
is  a  tedious  task,  after  ten,  eleven,  or  twelve  o'clock  at 
night,  when  one  is  almost  exhausted.  Angles  and  distances 
have  to  be  measured,  flowers  collected,  natural  history 
attended  to,  geological  formations  noted,  inscriptions  copied, 
sketches  made  ;  and  when  these  things  are  done,  the  time 
left  for  writing  is  very  limited.  If  it  had  not  been  for 
a  kind  of  shorthand  which  1  have  adopted,  I  coidd  never 
have  written  my  journal  at  all.  And  when  letters  are  writ- 
ten, the  work  must  be  done  hurriedly,  and  my  penmanship 
often  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  that  of  Rufus  Choate, 
or  of  some  spiritualistic  medium.  In  fact,  Rufus  Choate's 
writing  would  be  beautifid  copperplate,  compared  mth 
what  might  be  found  in  my  daily  note-books.  But  there  is 
one  satisfactory  thing  about  it :  I  can  read  my  notes, 
while  Rufus  Choate  could  not  read  his.  This  work, 
however,  of  collecting  facts  is  interesting,  and  even 
exciting. 


CHAPTER  XII. 
Gadaea. 

Exploration  work.  M'Khaibeh.  Hot  spring.  Dense  jungle.  A  tropical 
paradise.  Women  weaving  reed-mats.  Severe  storm.  Griffon 
vultiu'es.  Our  trap  for  wild  animals  a  failure.  Jackals.  Insects. 
Sulphur  springs.  Mills  run  by  hot  water.  Size  and  temperatiire  of 
the  springs.  Beautiful  remains  of  former  luxury.  Baths.  Stone 
chairs.  Masons'  marks.  Theatre.  Possibility  of  rebuilding  this 
ancient  pleasure  resort.  Birket  el  'Araies,  or  Fountain  of  the  Brides. 
Eoman  road  to  Gadara.  Situation  of  the  city.  Two  theatres.  Glo- 
rious view.  Extensive  ruins.  Tombs.  City  of  the  dead.  Grounds 
laid  out  and  ornamented.     Roman  villa.     Great  temple  at  El  Kabu. 

Hot  Springs   of  Gadara,  March  6,  1876. 

DURING  the  week  past,  we  have  visited  Um  Keis,  or 
Gadara,  several  times.  The  distance  from  our  camp 
is  almost  three  miles.  Gadara  is  cut  off  from  the  plateau 
east  of  the  Jordan,  to  which  it  properly  belongs,  by  Wady 
Menadireh  on  the  north,  and  Wady  'Arab  on  the  south.  The 
country  east  of  it  we  have  pretty  thoroughly  explored,  and 
also  the  great  plateau  east  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  about  Kefr 
Harib,  El  Husn,  or  Gamala,  and  Fik.  We  have  also 
explored  the  valley  of  the  Menadireh  some  distance  to  the 
east  of  El  Hamma,  including  Birket  el  'Ai-aies,  or  the  Foun- 
tain of  the  Brides,  and  the  famous  jungle  at  M'Khaibeh. 
7 


146  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

The  latter  is  three  miles  up  the  valley  to  the  east,  and  pos- 
sesses one  large  hot  spring,  which  is  about  the  size,  so  far 
as  the  volume  of  water  is  concerned,  of  the  three  hottest 
springs  at  El  Hamma.  The  jungle  of  thorn -bushes,  canes, 
and  trees  was  so  thick  that  it  was  very  difficult  to  get 
about.  M'Khaibeh  is  a  plain  between  the  mountains,  with 
the  river  running  at  the  north  side  of  it ;  while  here  the 
river  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  plain.  Another  name 
given  by  the  Arabs  to  the  river  at  M'Khaibeh  is  Abu 
Kharuf.  The  plain  is  about  one  mile  long,  by  haK  a  mile 
wide.  The  water  from  the  sulphur  sj)ring  already  men- 
tioned flows  over  it  in  many  streams,  and  makes  it  a 
tropical  paradise.  I  counted  eighteen  tropical  trees  grow- 
ing there,  while  of  the  different  shrubs,  flowers,  and  plants 
I  do  not  know  the  number ;  nor  do  I  know  that  I  observed 
all  the  trees.  The  most  striking  feature,  however,  is  a 
grove  of  two  hundred  fine  palms,  lifting  their  gi'aeeful 
heads  above  the  plain  and  jungle  below.  Such  a  sight  is 
not  to  be  seen  elsewhere  in  Syria.  Everything  which  grows 
here  grows  to  perfection.  Nothing  is  stunted  or  dwarfed. 
I  never  before  made — or  tried  to  make — my  way  through 
such  a  thicket  as  this.  Indeed,  in  most  places  it  is  impossi- 
ble to  find  a  way  through  it,  unless  one  should  cut  a  path 
\AW\  axes.  It  is  literally  one  mass  of  vegetation, — a  jungle, 
festooned,  intertwined,  tangled,  and  dense  as  a  solid  wall. 
Wild  boars  live  here,  and  have  a  secure  retreat.  Near  the 
upper  end  of  the  plain,  not  far  from  the  spring,  is  a  mill, 
which  is  run  by  hot  water  of  over  100°  temperature.  The 
temperature  of  the  water  in  the  spring  itself  is  112°.  Here 
and  there  a  small  clearing  has  been  made,  and  black  tents 
pitched,  or  a  hut  of  reeds  has  been  set  up.  The  location 
must  be  unhealthy  in  the  summer.  At  this  season,  how- 
ever, it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  attractive  places  I 
have  seen,  and  is  not  surpassed  by  any  other  in  aU  Palestine. 


GADARA.  147 

The  names  of  a  few  of  the  trees  and  shrubs  referred  to 
are  as  follows :  the  palm,  acacia,  mulberry,  sidr,  the  olean- 
der,— which  reaches  such  a  size  here  as  to  deserve  to  be 
called  a  large  tree, — the  pomegranate,  kharub,  Seville 
orange,  sweet  lemon,  fig,  prickly  pear,  briers  of  gigantic 
size,  grape-vines ;  a  large,  fine  tree  called  gharam ;  the 
zamzariJc,  which  is  covered  with  beautiful  pink  blossoms  ; 
the  butm,  noticed  on  the  borders  of  the  jungle  only ;  a 
small  tree  called  the  Jiauz ;  and  the  gasaih,  or  Jcasaih, 
which  means  cane.  The  canes  reach  a  height  of  twenty- 
five  feet. 

Women  were  weaving  the  slender  reeds  into  large  mats, 
which,  here  and  elsewhere,  are  also  used  as  walls  for  their 
reed-houses.  They — /.  e.,  the  few  women  whom  we  saw 
here — could  make  a  mat  which  would  answer  for  one  side 
of  a  house,  in  one  or  two  days.  Such  a  piece,  when  done, 
would  be  worth  four  piastres,  or  sixteen  cents. 

Saturday  night  and  yesterday  we  had  a  hard  storm.  It 
was  foggy  and  dark,  and  rained  most  of  the  time,  and  was 
very  disagreeable.  The  wind  blew  and  the  rain  beat  so  that 
I  could  not  have  much  light  in  my  tent,  and  the  next  day 
was  endured,  rather  than  enjoyed  or  improved.  Besides, 
our  tent  was  made  unusually  disagreeable  by  a  bad  smell. 
Van  Dyck  was  fortunate  enough  to  shoot  a  pair  (male  and 
female)  of  griffon  vultures.  Each  measured  three  feet  and 
six  inches  from  tip  of  beak  to  tip  of  tail ;  and  one  spread 
eight  feet  three  inches,  and  the  other  eight  feet''four  inches. 
While  they  were  exactly  the  same  length,  the  female  made 
a  bigger  spread,  by  one  inch,  than  the  male.  But  I  could 
not  say  which  smelled  the  worse.  They  were  the  foules-t 
birds  I  ever  saw.  I  thought  that  we  should  be  sick.  Now, 
however,  that  they  are  skinned  and  packed  away,  the  atmos- 
phere about  our  camp  is  becoming  somewhat  purified.  I 
told  Van  Dyck  this  morning  I  hoped  he  would  not  shoot 


148  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

any  more  griffon  vultures ;  for  in  skinning  and  preparing 
them  it  seemed  to  me  we  were  called  upon  for  a  greater  sac- 
lifice  of  comfort  than  even  explorers  who  are  roughing  it 
should  be  expected  to  make.  Still,  it  is  not  easy  to  get  these 
birds,  and  I  suppose  we  must  endure  all  this  for  science. 
Our  natural  history  collection  is  growing  daily.  At  present, 
it  consists  chiefly  of  birds.  We  have  not  had  much  success, 
hitherto,  with  four-footed  beasts.  We  have  seen  wolves, 
foxes,  jackals,  gazelles,  ichneumons,  otters,  and  wild  boars ; 
but  they  have  all  escaped  our  rifles.  Before  leaving  Bei- 
rut, I  tried  to  get  a  trap,  such  as  I  had  used  to  catch  game 
with  in  America ;  but  could  find  none.  No  one  had  ever 
seen,  such  as  I  wanted,  and  a  blacksmith  whom  I  consulted 
thought  one  could  not  easily  be  made.  I  found,  however,  a 
French  contrivance  called  a  trap,  which  was  very  rude  and 
unwieldy,  and  which  has  rendered  us  no  service  thus  far. 
With  suitable  traps,  I  believe  some  of  these  wild  beasts 
could  easily  be  taken.  Jackals  are,  of  course,  very  a})un- 
dant.  Just  about  sunset,  they  break  out  in  aU  directions 
with  their  peculiar  howl,  and  often  come  very  near  om* 
camp. 

As  for  insects,  our  time  is  too  much  occupied  to  pay 
attention  to  them.  They,  however,  have  abundant  leisure 
to  devote  to  us,  and  are  constantly  and  everywhere  annoy- 
ing. For  myself,  I  am  never  persecuted  by  fleas,  as  many 
travellers  are.  In  fact,  they  usually  give  me  a  wide  berth, 
for  which  I  am  thankfiil.  At  Tiberias  they  were  more 
troublesome  than  they  are  here;  and  possibly  something  is 
to  be  attributed  to  the  fact  that,  with  these  delightful  facil- 
ities for  bathing,  we  keep  almost  too  clean  for  them. 

This  place,  although  entirely  without  inhabitants,  is  never 
without  people,  either  gathered  about  the  sjirings,  or  com- 
ing and  going  in  different  directions.  There  are,  however, 
the  families  of  two  millers,  who  remain  here  all  the  time. 


GABABA.  149 

The  town  at  this  place  must  have  been,  in  ancient  times, 
one  of  importance,  and  probably  of  wealth.  The  plain  is 
about  one  mile  long,  and  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
wide ;  and  one-half  or  two-thirds  of  the  entire  surface  is 
covered  with  ruins  of  once  elegant  buildings.  The  number 
of  springs  here  is  given,  in  all  the  books  that  I  have  exam- 
ined, as  high  as  eight  or  ten,  which  is  not  correct.  There 
are  but  four,  of  which  the  temperature  of  the  two  hottest 
has  already  been  mentioned,  namely,  115°  and  103°,  The 
third  has  a  temperature  of  92°,  and  the  last  of  83°.  They 
are  all  sulphur  springs.  The  whole  region  is  filled  with  the 
odor.  The  first  night  we  spent  here,  I  awoke,  and,  not 
remembering  for  an  instant  exactly  where  I  was,  but  per- 
ceiving the  strong  odor  which  filled  the  vaUey,  I  exclaimed: 
"  What  is  it  ? "  But  a  few  days'  experience  accustomed  me 
to  the  smell,  and  I  either  like  it,  or  else  have  persuaded  my- 
self that  I  do,  for  I  really  enjoy  being  here.  If  I  lived  in 
Syria,  I  should  wish  a  house  at  these  hot  springs.  Drinking 
this  sulphur  water,  combined  with  our  hard  work,  has 
given  us  excellent  appetites.  Further,  these  springs  are  not 
mere  puddles,  of  a  few  pailf  uls  each,  as  is  the  case  with  some 
of  the  famous  sulphur  springs  of  Europe  or  America ;  but 
they  are  all  of  generous  size.  One  is  fifteen  by  twenty  feet ; 
another,  forty-five  feet  in  diameter ;  and  the  third  is  sixty 
yards  long  by  forty  yards  wide.  The  streams  flowing  from 
them  are  large  and  rapidi  The  mill  near  our  camp,  on 
one  of  these  streams,  is,  like  that  already  mentioned  at 
M'Khaibeh,  run  by  hot  water  at  100°  Fahrenheit.  There 
can  be  no  freezing  in  winter !  The  spring,  which  has  83° 
temperature,  bursts  from  the  foot  of  a  basaltic  cliff ;  and 
the  stream  from  it  runs  across  the  plain,  turns  a  mill, 
and  then  flows  over  rocks  into  the  river.  But,  before  it 
reaches  the  mill,  it  forms  on  the  plain  a  large  marsh, 
which  is  several  acres  in  extent,  about  one  acre  of  which 


1.30 


EAST   OF  THE  JOBDAN. 


is  a  pond,  clear  of  weeds,  and  from  three  to  six  feet  in 
depth.  The  water  in  this  pond,  and  in  the  stream  above 
and  below  it,  is  clear  and  sweet,  and  abounds  with  fish. 

From  the  spring  which  has  103°  temperature,  there  flows 
a  large  stream.     Soon  after  leaving  the  spring,  it  is  divided 


Seats    in    the    Bath    at    El     Hamma. 


into  two  or  three  channels,  in  order  to  feed  a  mill ;  but 
these  unite  again  before  reaching  the  river.  At  the  bank 
of  the  river,  the  water  has  dug  out  a  large  reservoir,  a  hun- 
dred yards  in  length  and  ten  or  fifteen  in  width,  in  which 
the  water  is  ten  feet  deep.  The  water  in  this  pond,  which 
has  a  temperature  of  98°,  flows  over  the  rocks  into  the  river 
below,  forming  a  beautiful  cascade.  The  volume  of  water 
flowing  from  all  these  springs  combined,  I  estimate  to  be 
equal  to  a  stream  twenty-five  feet  wide  by  twenty  inches, 
or  two  feet,  in  depth,  with  a  rapid,  foaming  current. 

I  have  already  referred  to  the  intense  green  appearance 
of  these  springs  and  streams,  as  seen  from  a  distanc«^ 
when   we   were   approaching  them   from   Tiberias.     This 


GADABA.  151 

phenomenon  I  have  since  observed  on  several  occasions, 
both  from  the  summit  of  the  hill  at  Um  Keis,  and  again 
on  the  brow  of  the  mountain  to  the  north,  at  a  point  two 


4>.v.n.fin.6. 

^1  /  q 


A.X.  K.<D  •  H  . 


<K 


1 


Twenty-three  Varieties    of    Masons'    Marks    from   the  Stones    in  the    Roman    Bath   at    El 
Hamma,  or    Hot    Springs  of   Gadara.*      [Each  character  is  about  six   inches   long.] 

or  more  miles  away.  Sometimes,  from  the  hiUs  on  either 
side,  a  cloud  of  steam  is  seen  rising  above  these  springs, 
and  often,  if  seen  early  in  the  morning,  it  will  fill  the 
valley.     The  atmosphere  about  them  is  very  damp,  and,  as 

*  The  single  characters,  or  groups  of  characters,  are  here  separated 
liy  dots.  A  few  of  these  are  common,  while  others  are  strange  in 
their  form.  See  others  under  Bozrah,  p.  55.  All  these,  as  they  exist 
o:i  the  stones,  are  finely  carved. 


152  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

a  result,  our  tents  have  been  as  wet  in  the  morning  as 
though  there  had  been  a  heavy  shower. 

The  remains  here  consist  of  buildings  connected  with 
the  springs,  also  of  private  houses  and  a  fine  theatre.  The 
material  of  which  all  of  them  were  built  is  the  usual  black 
basalt.  At  one  point  among  the  ruins  I  found  a  row  of 
nine  elegant  stone  chairs,  with  backs  two  feet  and  a  half 
high  above  the  seat,  still  in  position,  and  others  that  had 
been  broken  and  the  pieces  scattered.  Of  those  still  stand- 
ing an  illustration  is  given.  The  length  of  these  blocks  I 
could  not  ascertain ;  but  each  chair  was  cut  from  one 
block  of  basalt,  and  was  eighteen  inches  wide.  These 
chairs  fit  each  other  perfectly,  and  extend  twenty  feet  in 
a  continuous  line.  They  were  covered  with  debris  to  the 
level  of  the  seats ;  but  by  digging  down  and  removing  the 
stones,  I  found  the  pavement  which  had  served  as  the  floor 
of  this  apartment,  which,  by  its  size,  may  have  been  a  con- 
sultation or  waiting  room.  From  the  stones  of  the  bath 
nearest  our  camp,  I  copied  twenty  or  thirty  different  vari- 
eties of  masons'  marks,  specimens  of  which  are  here  given. 

Two  vast  theatres  like  those  in  Gadara  would  seem  to 
have  been  enough  for  all  this  region ;  but,  in  addition,  El 
Hamma  had  one  of  its  own.  While  this  was  not  large,  it 
was  a  beautiful  structure,  facing  the  north-east,  with  up- 
wards of  twenty  rows  of  seats,  of  which  fourteen  are  still 
perfect.  The  hill  in  which  it  is  built  appears  to  have  been 
in  part  artificial,  and  on  the  side  facing  the  town,  which 
was  the  rear  of  the  theatre,  were  platforms  and  columns, 
and  there  is  some  evidence  for  believing  that  a  series  of 
steps  led  up  here  into  the  theatre.  The  basalt  blocks,  with 
which  the  ground  in  front  of  the  theatre  was  paved,  stiQ 
remain  in  position,  covered  in  parts  with  soil  and  grass. 

If  El  Hamma  could  be  rebuilt,  it  would  become  one  of 
the  most  attractive  resorts  in  Syria,  and  perhaps  in  the 


GADARA.  153 

whole  world.  The  springs  at  Callirrhoe  are  the  most  inac- 
cessible of  those  which  belong  east  of  the  Jordan  and 
the  Dead  Sea ;  while  those  that  are  found  along  the  Jordan 
valley  are  of  no  great  size,  and  even  the  far-famed  springs 
of  Tiberias  are  insignificant  compared  with  those  of 
Gadara.  And  it  seems  a  pity,  that  these  delightful  and 
healing  waters  should  flow  on  forever  without  being 
enjoyed  by  those  who  would  appreciate  and  be  benefited 
by  them.  If  Syria  should  ever  be  brought  under  a  good 
government,  and  be  occupied  by  civilized  and  intelligent 
people,  these  hot  springs  would,  no  doubt,  become  one  of 
the  finest  watering-places  in  all  the  country.  After  the 
destruction  of  Jerusalem,  the  Jews  had  a  flouiishing  school 
at  Gadara,  and  it  is  said  that  the  rabbis  used  to  visit  these 
springs  and  walk  for  recreation  along  the  bank  of  the 
river. 

Birket  el  'Araies,  or  Fountain  of  the  Brides,  to  which  I 
have  referred,  is  situated  about  a  mile  east  of  M'Khaibeh, 
and  on  the  same  side  of  the  river.  It  is  a  beautiful  lake 
of  cool,  sweet  water,  has  no  outlet,  is  nearly  circular,  and 
I  was  twenty-five  minutes  in  walking  around  it.  Ducks 
and  some  other  water-fowl  are  found  here,  and  the  gentle 
slopes  about  the  lake  are  green  and  afford  excellent  pasture 
for  the  flocks  of  the  Bedawin. 

A  Roman  road  once  led  from  these  hot  springs  to  the 
city  of  Gadara,  situated  on  the  top  of  the  hiU  to  the  south. 
Now,  it  is  a  rather  hard  climb  of  about  one  hour  to  reach 
the  summit.  The  site  is  a  fine  one,  and  the  view  very 
extensive  and  inspiring.  Tabor,  the  Nazareth  hills,  Safed, 
Hermon  and  the  hills  to  the  south  on  the  Hauran  plain 
are  in  sight;  also  a  large  portion  of  the  Jordan  valley, 
Beisan,  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  Tiberias,  the  plain  of  Gennes- 
aret,  and  a  great  deal  besides.  It  was  a  city  of  wealth  and 
elegance.     Columns  of  marble,  basalt,  and  granite,  ^ath 


154 


EAST   OF  THE  JOBDAN. 


Doric,  Ionic,  and  Corintliian  capitals,  are  scattered  every- 
where, and  ricli  ornamental  work  of  various  kinds  is  also 
abundant.     This  place  had  two  large  theatres — one  in  the 


Roman    Road    at    Gadara. 

extreme  west  of  the  town,  the  other  at  the  north  side. 
The  west  theatre  had  a  front  of  two  hundi-ed  and  eighty- 
feet.  The  Roman  road  which  led  to  Bethshean  runs 
along  on  the  north  side  of  the  ruins ;  it  was  paved  with 
basalt  blocks,  and  is  still  quite  perfect.  The  ruts  worn 
by  the  chariot-wheels  are  plainly  to  be  seen  in  the  pave- 
ment. One  hour  east  of  the  ruins,  on  the  road  to  Beit 
er  Ras,  I  found  the  remains  of  a  great  temple.  Between 
it  and  the  ruins  of  G-adara,  the  tombs  are  so  numerous 
that  I  should  call  this  particular  region  the  City  of  the 
Dead.  There  are  literally  hundreds  of  them,  and  a  multi- 
tude of  sarcophagi  are  scattered  about,  most  of  which  are 
adorned  wdth  some  sculptured  work.  These  were  either 
never  placed  in  the  tombs,  or  else  have  been  dragged  out 


GADARA. 


155 


of  them ;  and  while  some  are  still  perfect,  many  have  been 
broken.  With  regard  to  the  tombs,  a  single  one  would 
contain  a  whole  family,  and  some  seem  to  have  been 
arranged  for  different  branches  of  the  same  family,  or  for 
several  families  in  common.  These,  of  coui'se,  were  quite 
large.  They  are  dug  in  the  limestone  rock,  but  all  of 
them  have  doors  of  basalt.  These  doors  of  stone  are  sim- 
ilar to  those  which  are  found  in  the  Haui'an.  There  was  a 
stone  frame,  a  lintel,  and  sometimes  a  cornice  and  a  sculpt- 
ured slab  over  the  entrance.  On  the  doors  were  carved 
panels  and  knockers,  and  bands  in  which  were  representa- 
tions of  ornamental  bolt-heads.  There  was  a  great  variety 
ot  these  knockers — a  knob,  a  hand,  a  pointed  finger,  a 
wreath,  a  lion's  head,  or  some  other  device.  Many  of  them 
were  exactly  similar  in  style  to  those  which  are  often  seen 
on  the  doors  of  the  oldest 
houses  in  New  England. 
These  doors  are  about  four 
by  five  feet  in  size,  and 
six  inches  thick.  A  sketch 
of  one  is  here  given.  They 
have  stone  hinges  and 
places  for  bolts  by  which 
they  were  fastened.  Doubt- 
less these  bolts  were  of 
wt»od  or  iron,  or  of  some 
material  that  has  perished. 
These  tombs  are  now  used 
as  dwellings  or  goat-pens, 
and  as  storerooms  for 
straw  and  barley.  At  the  present  time  there  are  but 
few  people  living  in  these  ruins,  and  no  houses  are  oc- 
cupied. The  people  who  come  here  appear  to  do  so  for 
some  temporary  purpose,  and  bring  with  them  their  tents, 


Door   of   a   Tomb    at   Gadara. 


156  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

or  else  occupy  some  of  the  tombs.  Those  whom  we 
saw  were  very  civH,  assisted  us  in  many  ways,  and 
treated  us  kindly.  1  found  only  three  inscriptions,  but 
do  not  pretend  to  have  made  a  thorough  examination  of 
the  ruins. 

The  hill  or  mountain  side  between  El  Ham  ma  and  Um 
Keis,  or  between  the  hot  springs  and  G-adara  itself,  is,  as  I 
have  indicated,  quite  steep — for  a  part  of  the  way,  at  least ; 
and  for  half  a  mile  below  the  summit,  one  can  almost  say 
that  the  surface  of  the  ground  is  covered  with  columns  and 
blocks  of  stone,  that  have  roUed  down  from  the  ruins 
above.  The  situation  of  the  place  is,  however,  what 
charmed  me  most.  The  view  is  not  only  extensive,  but 
beautiful  and  magnificent.  The  spectators,  from  their  seats 
in  the  west  theatre,  could  overlook  the  finest  portion  of  Pal- 
estine. Five  great  fortresses  were  in  sight;  the  whole 
country,  rich  in  cities  and  villages,  from  Hermon  almost  to 
Jericho,  was  spread  out  before  them,  and  at  their  very  feet 
was  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  covered  with  vessels,  and  sur- 
rounded with  cultivation  and  life.  I  can  almost  forgive 
the  ancient  inhabitants  of  this  land  for  choosing  the  hill- 
tops as  sacred  places.  Yet  it  should  be  remembered  that 
the  groves,  the  attractive  scenery,  and  aU  that  was  beauti- 
ful and  enchanting  in  such  localities  as  this,  could  not  save 
the  people  from  the  grossest  idolatry  and  the  most  lascivi- 
ous rites. 

The  statement  that  I  have  made,  that  one  theatre  was  in 
the  extreme  west  of  the  city,  needs  to  be  qualified,  since 
beyond  this  theatre  a  large  number  of  the  private  houses 
appear  to  have  been  situated.  The  city  was  properly  com- 
posed of  three  parts:  the  western  end  of  the  ridge  or 
plateau,  where  private  houses  stood ;  next  to  the  east,  but 
separated  from  the  first  part  by  an  open  space,  was  the  hUl 
occupied  by  temples  and  public  buildings,  including  the  two 


GADABA.  157 

great  theatres ;  and  thirdly,  still  towards  the  east,  was  the 
city  of.  tombs,  already  described. 

The  Arabs  told  us  of  a  ruin  one  hour  east  of  Gadara, 
about  which  there  was  something  remarkable ;  but  what  it 
was  we  could  not  exactly  understand.  They  said  it  was  in 
the  ground.  Those  who  went  with  us  took  with  them 
their  hatchets  and  rude  implements  for  digging.  There 
was  a  large  cistern  at  the  place,  but  no  ruins  of  any  impor- 
tance in  sight.  The  Arabs  began  to  dig,  and  soon  came  to  a 
beautiful  tessellated  pavement.  While  they  were  digging,  I 
made  a  long  rope  by  tying  the  stirrup-leathers  of  our  sad- 
dles together,  and  on  this  I  let  myself  down  into  the  cistern. 
When  I  was  about  six  feet  from  the  bottom,  my  leather 
rope  broke,  and  I  fell  on  a  bed  of  stones,  but  without  seri- 
ous injury.  The  cistern,  which  was  of  unusual  depth,  was 
excavated  in  the  solid  rock,  and  the  bottom  was  covered 
with  several  feet  of  debris.  This  place  may  have  been  a 
villa  belonging  to  the  city  of  Gadara.  A  person  of  wealth 
might  choose  this  spot  as  a  place  of  residence.  It  would  be 
near  a  great  city,  and  would  enjoy  a  wide  prospect  and  the 
fresh  mountain  air ;  it  would  be  near,  also,  to  the  great 
thoroughfare  leading  from  Bethshean  and  the  south,  also 
from  Tiberias  and  the  north,  past  Gadara,  to  the  east.  On 
this  road,  a  short  distance  to  the  east  of  Mazil,  where  we 
have  just  supposed  the  villa  may  have  been  situated,  there 
is  a  noble  ruin,  called  at  present  El  Kal)u,  which  I  have 
already  referred  to  as  that  of  a  temple.  It  occupies  a  com- 
manding position.  A  portion  of  the  great  platform  by 
which  it  was  approached  is  still  perfect,  and  the  columns  in 
front  were  six  feet  in  diameter. 

From  Gadara,  angles  were  taken  to  as  many  as  twenty- 
two  different  points. 

In  addition  to  what  I  have  said  with  regard  to  the  sar- 
cophagi found  here,  I  will  add  that  some  appear  as  if  they 


158  EAST   OF   THE  JORDAN. 

had  been  placed  on  the  top  of  the  ground  on  raised  plat- 
forms of  basalt  blocks,  as  I  have  observed  was  done  at 
Kedes  and  ■  elsewhere.  Thus,  instead  of  being  hidden  away 
in  tombs,  some  of  them  would  have  stood  above  ground, 
jwhere  they  woidd  be  objects  to  be  visited  and  admired. 
The  beautiful  sculptured  work  upon  them  would  have  made 
them  attractive  ornaments  in  any  cemetery.  There  may 
have  been  fences  about  such  exposed  tombs,  and  trees 
overhanging  them,  and  the  ground  may  have  been  laid 
out  with  walks.  People  who  would  take  such  pains  with 
tombs,  coffins,  and  the  platforms  where  they  were  exposed, 
would  be  likely  to  care  for  the  grounds,  as  well. 


CHAPTER   XIIL 

Aphek,  the  Grave  of  a  Syrian  Army  (I.  Kings  xx.,  30). 

Climb  from  El  Hamma  to  the  plateau  on  the  north.  Intense  green 
appearance  of  the  sulphur  springs.  El  'Ayun,  Fine  fields.  Kefr 
Harib.  El  Kawayir.  El  Husu,  or  Gamala.  Josephus's  description. 
Storm  on  the  Lake  of  Tiberias,  as  seen  from  the  eastern  hills.  Gam- 
ala  to  Fik.  Figure  found  on  a  lintel.  Inviting  ourselves  to  Moham- 
med's house  durin  g  a  storm.  Smoky  reception.  Fik  identified  with 
Aphek,  of  I.  Kings  xx.  Probably  identical,  also,  with  Hippos. 
Experience  of  our  muleteer,  crossing  the  Jordan  with  sugar.  The 
Arabs  of  the  Menadireh  (or  Yarmuk,  or  Hieromax)  valley.  Peculiarity 
of  their  features.  Pleasant  companions.  Despised  by  the  Bedawin 
of  the  desert.     Geological  aspects  of  this  region. 

Hot   Springs  of  Gadara. — Continued. 

I  HAVE  stated  that  the  climb  from  El  Hamma  to  Um 
Keis  was  a  rather  difficult  one ;  but  it  is  easy  compared 
with  that  up  the  steep  mountain-side  to  the  north.  It  took 
us,  usually,  forty-five  or  fifty  minutes  to  reach  the  brow  of 
the  hill,  or  the  southern  edge  of  the  great  plateau  east  of 
the  Sea  of  Galilee.  The  view  of  Gadara,  of  the  Jordan 
vaUey  and  Beisan,  of  Kaukab,  Tabor,  the  Nazareth  hills, 
Hattin,  and  many  other  points  of  interest,  was  very  fine. 
The  water  in  the  springs  of  El  Hamma  looked  intensely 
green,  as  I  have  before  described ;  and  the  charming  little 
lake,  the  Fountain  of  the  Brides,  with  its  green  slopes,  was 


160  iJAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

more  beautiful  than  ever,  while  near  it  the  jungle  and  palm- 
groves  of  M'Khaibeh  appeared  like  a  garden. 

Some  distance  to  the  east,  but  still  on  the  edge  of  the 
plateau,  is  a  small  ruin  called  El  'Ayun.  The  ruins  consist 
of  a  few  modern  houses,  some  remains  of  older  buildings, 
squared  stones,  and  pieces  of  doors  and  lintels,  aU.  of  which 
are  of  basalt.  The  Arabs  say  that  the  fountains,  El  'Ayun, 
''are  just  below,"  which  is  extremely  indefinite.  We 
learned,  however,  that  they  are  not  far  away.  Going  north 
from  El  'Ayun,  one  has  the  Wady  Sumar  on  the  right.  The 
great  plateau  is  rich,  mostly  free  from  stone,  and  the  color 
of  the  soil  is  dark  red,  like  the  most  fertile  portions  of 
Bashan.  Flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  and  herds  of  cattle, 
were  scattered  in  different  directions  on  the  vast  plain,  and 
mth  them,  of  course,  their  shepherds ;  while  in  some  sec- 
tions a  number  of  men  were  ploughing.  In  fifty  minutes 
from  El  'Ayun  one  reaches  Kefr  Harib,  a  Moslem  \dUage  on 
the  western  edge  of  the  plateau  which  I  have  just  described. 
A  mile  or  more,  however,  before  reaching  it,  one  comes  in 
sight  of  the  Lake  of  Tiberias,  and  at  this  season  it  is  un- 
speakably beautiful,  when  seen  from  the  point  just  indicated. 

In  the  gardens  and  fields  near  the  village,  the  prickly 
pear  is  found  in  great  abundance,  and  is  of  immense  size ; 
and  there  are  a  few  kharub,  together  with  some  very  old 
olive-trees.  These  ruins  are  extensive,  and  the  place  has 
evidently  been,  in  former  times,  one  of  wealth  and  impor- 
tance. There  are  several  cufic  inscriptions  among  the  riiius, 
and  one  or  more  very  large  mills  for  grinding  olives. 

Before  reaching  this  village,  one  sees  on  a  shai^)  peak, 
just  under  the  brow  of  the  mountain,  some  ruins  called  El 
Kawayir.  It  may  have  been  a  small  fortified  place,  or 
watch-tower,  for  the  people  saj-  it  is  a  Txulat. 

Half  an  hour  beyond  Kefr  Harib,  and  a  little  below  the 
level  of  the  plain  on  which  the  village  stands,  is  Jamusieh. 


APHEK.  161 

This  is  a  low  ridge  in  front  and  along  which  the  road  led 
into  Hnsn.  From  this  point  it  is  only  two  or  three  minutes' 
walk  to  the  city's  gate,  which  was  imposing,  and  guarded 
by  massive  towers.  The  summit  on  which  this  famous 
castle-city  stood  slopes  abruptly,  almost  perpendicularly,  on 
the  north  and  south  sides,  and  also  on  the  west  end.;  while 
the  east  end  is  connected  with  the  mountain  only  by  a  nar- 
row neck  or  ridge,  of  which  I  have  already  given  the  name 
as  Jamusieh.  Josephus  has  not  exaggerated,  nor  would  it 
be  easy  for  auy  one  to  exaggerate,  the  natural  strength  of 
this  position.  A  broad  street  ran  from  the  gate  just  men- 
tioned to  the  western  extremity  of  the  place  ;  and,  if  the 
line  of  it  were  continued,  it  would  pass  through  Me j del,  on 
the  west  shore  of  the  Lake  of  Tiberias.  The  guide  whom 
we  employed  while  making  our  examinations  at  El  Husn, 
belonged  in  Kefr  Harib,  and  proved  to  he  uncommonly 
intelligent.  He  had  never  been  with  foreigners ;  hence  his 
archffiological  tastes  were  natural,  not  acquired.  He  was 
perfectly  familiar  with  the  ruins,  and  his  questions  and  talk 
in  general  showed  that  he  had  noticed  many  of  the  things 
which  exist  there,  and  had  thought  about  their  use. 

The  road  from  Gramala  to  Fik  is  a  good  one,  and  the  dis- 
tance only  about  forty  minutes.  At  one  point  on  this 
road,  as  I  looked  back  upon  El  Husn  and  the  neck  or 
ridge  wliich  connects  it  with  the  great  plateau  to  the  east, 
I  noticed  how  strikingly  the  outline  of  the  two  taken 
together  resembled  the  neck  and  back  of  a  camel,  and 
realized  in  an  unexpected  manner  the  appropriateness  of 
the  name  which  the  city  bore,  i.  e.,  Gamala,  or  camel  (see 
"Wars,"  iv.,  1, 1).  In  the  valley  west  of  Fik,  there  are  large 
and  flourishing  groves  of  olive-trees,  covering  many  acres. 
The  place  has  extensive  ruins,  with  a  good  many  cufic 
inscriptions ;  and  from  the  lintel  of  a  door,  or  a  stone 
which  now   serves  as  such,  I  copied  what  may  possibly 


162 


EAST  OF   THE  JOBBAN. 


be  a  representation  of  a  Jewish  candlestick,  with  its  cen- 
tral shaft  and  appropriate  side-arms,  nicely  carved  in  the 
basalt  rock.  During  one  visit,  as  we  reached  the  edge  of 
the  plateau  overlooking  the  Lake  of  Tiberias,  we  saw  a 
storm  that  had  been  gathering  in  the  south-west,  cover  and 
darken  the  lower  end  of  the  lake.  The  black  mass  of 
(ilouds  not  only  filled  the  sky  in  that  region,  but  appeared 
to  rest  upon  the  earth.     The  entire  Jordan  valley  and  the 


Candlestick    on    a    Lintel    at    Flk. 

hills  to  the  west  were  hidden  from  sight  as  the  storm 
marched  northward  to  the  Sea  of  GfaHlee.  There  it  seemed 
to  pause,  while  the  lightning  played  upon  its  dark,  fright- 
ful biUows,  and  the  thunder-peals  startled  us  by  their 
crashing  sound.  The  spectacle  was  grand,  but  it  was  not 
of  long  dirration.  The  mass  began  to  move  and  lift,  and 
soon  the  buried  world  beneath  it  reappeared,  while,  tlrrough 
the  rents  in  the  clouds,  the  sunlight  fell  again  on  mountain- 
top  and  valley. 

Later  in  the  day  just  referred  to,  while  we  were  working 
near  Fik,  another  storm  overtook  us,  and  we  hastened  into 
the  ruins  for  shelter.  We  were  thankful  for  a  place  of 
refuge  from  its  violence.     There  proved  to  be  a  succession 


APHEK.  163 

of  showers;  heavy  rain,  with  deafening  thunder,  followed 
by  rain  and  hail.  One  of  our  horsemen  knew  a  well-to-do 
man  in  the  place,  named  Mohammed, — a  name  as  definite  as 
Smith  or  Jones  with  us, — and  we  made  him  an  unceremo- 
nious call.  He  was  mending  a  plough,  and  was  evidently 
anything  but  pleased  at  our  arrival.  But  he  could  not  helj) 
himself,  and  soon  became  reconciled  to  the  inevitable  and 
treated  us  civilly.  After  the  plough  was  mended  he  sent 
it  away  by  a  boy  and  then  devoted  himself  to  our  wants. 
The  weather  had  become  cold,  and  we  were  wet  and  needed 
more  fire.  So  sticks  were  piled  upon  the  coals  in  the  centre 
of  the  room,  and  before  long  I  thought  we  should  be 
obliged  to  leave  on  account  of  the  smoke.  The  smoke 
element  in  Arab  hospitality  is  not  pleasant.  But  at  last 
we  got  warm  and  diy,  and  our  host  made  coffee  for  us, 
for  which,  of  course,  we  did  not  pay,  but  only  made  him 
a  present !  The  storm  ceased  near  night,  and  we  returned 
to  our  camp. 

I  shall  present  here  some  suggestions  with  regard  to  the 
identification  of  Fik,  not  only  with  the  Aphek  of  I.  Kings 
XX.,  but  with  Hippos,  one  of  the  cities  of  the  Decapolis. 

The  table-land  immediately  east  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee  is 
fertile,  and  has  been  occupied  by  important  cities  whose 
names  have  come  down  to  us  in  the  Bible,  Josephus,  and 
the  Talmud.  One  or  more  of  the  great  battles  of  the  Old 
Testament  was  fought  at  Aphek  (I.  Kings  xx, ;  see  II. 
Kings  xiii.),  and  one  of  the  hardest  struggles  of  the  Jew- 
ish war  took  place  at  Gamala.  The  modern  Fik  is  sup- 
posed to  represent  Aphek  of  the  Bible,  and  likewise  Fik 
and  Gamala  are  thought  to  be  situated  very  near  each  other. 

Seetzen,  Burckhardt,  and  others  have  made  suggestions 
with  regard  to  some  of  these  sites,  which  it  is  not  neces- 
sary for  our  present  purpose  to  notice  at  length. 


164  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

The  only  important  ruins  in  this  section  bear  the  names 
respectively  of  El  Husn,  Kefr  Harib,  and  Fik.  Fik 
is  written  by  Edrisi  (p.  16),  Aphik,  rj\,  which  corre- 
sponds almost  exactly  with  the  Biblical  name. 

In  Josephus's  account  of  the  siege  of  Gamala,  his  descrip- 
tion of  the  city  is  so  minute  and  definite  that  there  can  be 
no  possibility  of  error  or  doubt  as  to  what  place  he  intends 
("  Wars,"  iv.,  1,  1,  et  seq.J.  It  is  called  at  present  El  Husn, 
which  means  castle  or  fortification.  As  was  frequently  the 
case  with  cities  of  importance,  Gamala  gave  its  name  to  a 
small  district,  apparently  lying  chiefly  to  the  north  of  it 
("  Antiquities,"  xviii.,  5,  1).  A  dispute  about  the  boundary 
of  Gamalitis  led  to  a  war  between  Herod  Antipas  and 
Aretas,  "  King  of  Arabia  Petraea  "  f  ibid. J.  The  fii'st  men- 
tion of  the  place  is  ia  the  time  of  Alexander  Jannaeus,  who 
destroyed  it.  Here  it  is  spoken  of  as  "  a  fortress  of  great 
strength "  ("  Wars,"  i.,  4,  8 ;  "  Antiquities,"  xiii.,  15,  3). 
In  fact,  Josephus  generally  speaks  of  it  as  "a  fortress" 
(''Life,"  11,  1;  24,  1;  36).  It  was  "in  Lower  Gaulanitis" 
and  "  on  the  Lake  of  Tiberias  opposite  Taricliea " 
("  Wars,"  iv.,  1,  1).  The  full  description  of  the  place  iu 
"Wars,"  iv.,  1,  1,  et  seq.,  need  not  be  repeated  here.  After 
its  destruction  in  the  Jewish  war  it  is  not  again  mentioned, 
so  far  as  we  are  aware,  for  the  Gamala  of  the  Mishna,  ''forti- 
fied by  Joshua,"  was  probably  in  Galilee,  as,  indeed,  the 
Gem  am  on  this  place  states  it  to  have  been  (Schwarz,  p. 
150 ;  Neubauer,  p.  240).  The  name  does  not  occur  in 
Eusebius  or  Jerome,  nor  is  it  given  among  the  cities  of 
the  Decapolis  in  any  of  the  different  lists.  F^u•thermore, 
Pliny,  in  his  description  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  says  that  it 
is  surrounded  by  delightful  towns,  and  he  mentions  Julias 
and  Hippos  on  the  east,  Taricliea  on  the  south,  and  Tiberias 
on  the  west,  Gamala  is  not  mentioned,  as  we  should  have 
expected,  had  it  been  at  that  time  an  important  town  east 


A  PEEK.  165 

of  the  lake.  We  should  have  expected  Gamala  in  place  of 
Hippos.  This  fact  of  the  disappearance  of  the  name  is  an 
important  one. 

Somewhere  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  Gamala 
was  a  town  named  Hippos,  which  attained  equal,  if  not  a 
greater,  celebrity  in  the  Roman  period.  This  was  distinct 
from  Gamala,  since  both  names  are  frequently  mentioned 
by  Josephus  in  such  a  way  as  to  show  that  both  cities 
existed  at  the  same  time.  Therefore  Hippos  could  not  be 
at  El  Husn,  as  some  have  supposed.  It  was  thirty  furlongs 
from  Tiberias  ("  Life,"  65,  5),  and  situated,  it  is  supposed, 
on  or  near  the  shore  of  the  lake.  In  the  same  sentence 
Gadara  is  represented  to  be  sixty  furlongs  from  Tiberias, 
and  Scythopolis  one  hundred  and  twenty.  According  to 
this  statement,  Gadara  is  just  double  the  distance  from 
Tiberias  that  Hippos  is ;  consequently,  with  a  radius  of 
half  the  distance  of  Gadara  from  Tiberias,  and  with 
Tiberias  as  a  centre,  we  ought  to  be  able  to  find  Hippos. 
This  is  on  the  supposition  that  Josephus  is  giving  us  exact 
data.  Some  scholars  have  been  led  to  locate  Hippos  at 
Es  Semakh,  upon  the  shore  of  the  lake,  some  distance  east 
of  the  exit  of  the  river.  But  between  the  river  and  the 
mountain  there  are  no  ruins  except  those  of  a  few  mud 
hoiises ;  besides,  there  are  hints  which  seem  to  require  us 
to  locate  its  site  to  the  east  of  this  point  and  north  of  the 
Yarmuk.  For  instance,  in  the  time  of  Florus,  when  the 
Jewish  nation  had  been  thoroughly  roused  by  the  massacre 
of  their  brethren  in  Cesarea,  bands  went  forth  to  take 
revenge  upon  the  cities  of  the  Syrians.  After  reaching 
Gerasa  from  Philadelphia,  they  took  the  du'ect  road  to 
PeUa  and  Scythopolis,  and  went  thence  to  "  Gadara,  Hip- 
pos, and  Gaulanitis''  (''"Wars,"  ii.,  18,  1).  All  these  places 
(with  others)  were  destroyed.  Had  Hippos  been  situated  at 
the  south  end  of  the  Lake  of  Tiberias,  the  avenging  force 


166  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

must  have  passed  very  near  it  on  its  way  from  Scythopolis 
to  Gadara.  If  they  went  first  to  Gadara,  they  must  have 
returned  to  the  valley  and  then  gone  up  the  mountain 
again  to  have  reached  Gaulanitis,  making  a  very  zigzag 
and  unnatural  course.  The  inference  is  that  Hippos  was 
north  of  Gadara,  and  between  it  and  Gaulanitis.  Gadara 
and  Hippos  were  both  called  Greek  cities  ("  Antiquities/' 
xvii.,  11,  4).  They  were  given  to  Herod  the  Great  by 
Octavius  (ibid..,  xv.,  7,  3),  and  after  his  death  were  attached 
to  Syria  ("  Wars,"  ii.,  6,  3  ;  "  Antiquities,"  xvii.,  11,  4). 

Again,  Josephus  states  that  Justus,  ha\dng  prevailed 
upon  the  citizens  of  Tiberias  to  take  up  arms,  led  them 
out,  "  and  burned  those  villages  belonging  to  Gadara  and 
Hippos  which  lay  on  the  confines  of  Tiberias  and  of  the 
Scythopohs  territory"  ("  Life,"  9,  6).  This  shows,  perhaps, 
that  the  jurisdiction  of  Gadara  and  Hippos  extended  to 
the  southern  end  of  the  lake.  Hippos  gave  its  name  to  a 
district, — Hippene, — and  this,  together  with  Gadaris  and 
Gaulanitis,  bounded  Upper  and  Lower  Galilee  on  the  east 
("  Wars,"  iii.,  3,  1). 

Hippos  first  appears  in  the  time  of  Pompey,  who  restores 
it,  and  many  other  cities,  to  their  owners,  /.  c,  the  Greeks 
and  Syrians,  from  whom  they  had  been  taken  ("  Antiqui- 
ties," xiv.,  4,  4 ;  "  Wars,"  i.,  7,  7),  probably  by  Alexander 
Jaungeus,  who  took  many  cities  from  the  heathen  ("An- 
tiquities," xiii.,  15,  4),  although  Hippos  is  not  there  men- 
tioned. 

Another  suggestive  fact  with  regard  to  Hippos  is  that  it 
is  never  mentioned  by  Josephus,  so  far  as  we  are  aware,  in 
connection  with  Gamala.  On  the  other  hand,  he  frequently 
mentions  Hippos  and  Gadai'a  in  the  same  connection.  An 
examination  of  all  the  passages  where  Hippos  or  Gamala 
occur  leads  us  to  the  former  conclusion,  while  the  latter 
statement  is  justified  b}-  the  following  references :  "  Life," 


A  PEEK.  167 

9,  65;  "Antiquities,"  xiv,,  4,  4  (see  "Wars/'  i.,  7,  7) ;  xv., 
7,  3;  xvii.,  11,  4  (see  "Wars,"  ii.,  6,  3) ;  "Wars,"  ii.,  18,  1, 
o  ;  iii.,  3,  1 ;  10,  10. 

With  the  single  exception  of  the  siege  which  Gamala 
underwent.  Hippos,  both  at  that  time  and  previously, 
seems  to  have  been  a  place  of  much  more  political 
importance;  while,  subsequent  to  the  war.  Hippos  is 
often  mentioned  and  Gamala  never. 

Eusebius  and  Jerome  mention  Hippos, —  once  in  connec- 
tion with  Decapolis,  and  again  under  Apheca.  By  both  it 
is  called  a  city  of  Palestine.  Both  locate  Aphec  near  Hip- 
pos, but  Eusebius  calls  it  a  "  large  village,"  while  Jerome 
calls  it  a  "  great  castle."  Its  last  appearance  is  as  an  epis- 
copal city  of  Palaestina  Secunda. 

But  Hippos,  as  was  the  case  with  several  other  towns, 
seems  to  have  had  one  name  among  the  Greeks  and  anothei- 
among  the  Jews.  In  the  Jerusalem  Talmud  and  in  the 
early  Jewish  writings,  we  find  Susitha  several  times  men- 
tioned, which  is  explained  as  being  the  same  as  Hippos.  It 
was  inhabited  by  pagans,  and  was  the  rival — or  the  enemy 
— of  Tiberias.  It  was  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
lake,  and  "merchants  are  said  to  go  and  come  from  Susitha 
to  Tiberias "  (Shibiith  viii.,  3,  GemaraJ,  showing  that  there 
was  frequent  intercourse  between  the  two  places.  We  find 
in  Berashith  Rabba  a  curious  statement  about  the  ark  of 
Noah,  that  "  it  glided  as  on  two  planks,  which  one  might 
place  from  Susitha  to  Tiberias."  This  is  important,  as 
showing  that  Susitha  was  on  or  near  the  edge  of  the  plateau 
opposite  Tiberias.  This  language  would  hardly  have  been 
used  had  Hippos  been  on  the  low  ground  at  the  south-east 
corner  of  the  lake.  It  may  be  mentioned,  further,  that  Fik 
and  Tiberias  are  within  sight  of  each  other.  The  early 
Jewish  writings  associate  Susitha  and  Gadara  (see  references 
in  Schwarz,  p.  159  ;  Neubauer,  pp.  238-240  ;  we  add  to  their 


1G8  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

references  one  from  the  Jerusalem  Talmud,  Demai  ii.,  1, 
Gemara). 

The  testimony  of  Ptolemy  is  also  to  be  considered.  He 
places  Hippos  and  Gadara  on  the  same  meridian,  nameh', 
680.  'The  latitude  of  Gadara  is  32°  10',  and  that  of  Hippos 
32°  30'.  This  would  also  preclude  the  location  of  Hippos 
at  Sumrah,  which  is  east  of  Es  Semakh,  or  at  any  point  on 
the  south  shore  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee. 

Burckhardt  (p.  281)  was  of  the  opinion  that  Fik  and  its 
territory  must  have  formed  a  part  of  Hippene. 

The  following  summary  of  the  facts  now  gathered  wiU 
illustrate  more  clearly  the  historical  relation  of  these  differ- 
ent names,  and  serve  to  confirm  our  proposed  identifications : 

1.  The  important  place  in  this  region,  in  Bible  times,  was 
Aphek.     Besides  this,  no  other  name  appears. 

2.  In  the  Roman  times  we  hear  no  more  of  Aphek,  or  of 
its  Arabic  representative,  Fik  ;  but  Gamala  and  Hippos  are 
used.     The  cities  are  near,  but  yet  distinct  from  each  other. 

3.  After  the  Jewish  war,  Gamala  passes  out  of  sight, 
while  Hippos  remains,  and  Susitha,  a  Jewish  name  for  the 
same  place,  comes  into  use. 

4.  In  modern  times,  Susitha,  Hippos,  and  Gamala  have 
fill  disappeared,  while  the  only  important  ruins  in  that 
region,  as  we  have  seen,  are  El  Husn,  Kefr  Harib,  and  Fik  ; 
the  latter  being  a  sur^dval  and  reappearance  of  the  old 
Bible  name  of  Aphek. 

5.  El  Husn  represents  beyond  doubt  the  Gamala  of 
Josephus.  Susitha  and  Hippos  we  consider  to  be  repre- 
sented by  Fik,  and  there  remains  Kefr  Harib,  wliich  the 
Arabic  writers  have  frequently  mentioned  (Wetzstein,  pp. 
117-119). 

This  we  judge  may  be  identical  with  the  Hariib  of  the 
early  Jewish  writings.  There  was  also  a  Migdal  Hariib, 
which  may  have  been  El  Husn  (see  Schwarz,  l.i). 


APHEK.  169 

With  regard  to  the  statement  of  Eusebius  and  Jerome 
concerning  Apheca  as  being  near  Hippos,  it  is  to  be  noticed 
that  they  do  not  agree  as  to  the  character  of  the  place,  one 
calling  it  a  "  large  village  "  and  the  other  a  '^  great  castle.'' 
An  examination  of  the  ground  shows  that  no  castle  would 
be  built  at  Kefr  Harib,  nor  would  one  be  likely  to  be  built 
at  Fik.  The  region  is  too  level  for  such  structures.  The 
only  eligible  site  for  such  a  purpose  is  El  Husn ;  this  point 
seems  to  have  been  occupied  as  a  fortress  from  the  earliest 
times.  Unless  it  can  be  shown  that  Eusebius  and  Jerome 
were  so  intimately  acquainted  with  this  section  as  to  i^revent 
their  falling  into  error,  we  shall  be  justified  in  saying  that 
Eusebius  refers  to  Kefr  Harib,  while  Jerome  refers  to  El 
Husn,  when  they  speak  of  '^  Apheca,  near  Hippos." 

The  building  material  in  Kefr  Harib  is  basalt,  and  we 
found  here  several  Nabathean  inscriptions.  While  much  of 
the  plateau  stretching  to  the  east  is  free  from  stone,  the 
basalt  rock  crops  out  along  the  edge  of  the  table-land, 
where  this  drops  to  the  west,  for  a  distance  of  a  mile  or 
more,  and  it  is  upon  this  bed  of  rock  that  Kefi*  Harib  is 
built. 

The  ruins  at  Fik  are  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation.  The 
people  told  us  that  "  formerly  Fik  had  five  huiidred  yoke 
of  oxen,  but  now  there  are  not  five  hundred  people  aU 
told.     The  government  has  ruined  the  place." 

We  found,  on  our  return  from  Fik,  that  one  of  our 
muleteers,  whom  we  had  sent  early  in  the  morning  to 
Tiberias,  had  returned,  but  was  evidently  in  bad  humor, 
although  he  is  generally  good-natured,  and  before  starting 
on  his  errand  was  greatly  elated  that  we  shordd  select  him 
for  that  duty.  We  soon  learned  the  cause  of  his  depression. 
Among  the  supplies  which  he  was  to  get  was  a  quantity  of 
sugar;  but,  when  crossing  the  river  on  his  return,  the  water 


170  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

being  much  higher  than  when  we  crossed  a  few  days  since, 
his  mule  stumbled  and  f eU,  and  in  his  efforts  to  save  him- 
self and  his  animal,  his  goods  were  left  till  the  last,  and, 
when  recovered,  the  sugar  was  melted. 

Sheikh  Milsa,  who  belongs  to  one  of  the  tribes  in  this 
valley,  and  who  has  served  us  faithfully  since  oui-  arrival, 
deserves  notice  on  account  of  his  features.  He  is  some- 
what past  middle  life,  is  always  cheerful  and  willing  to 
accommodate  us,  but  thinks  far  less  of  geogi^aphy  and 
antiquities  than  he  does  of  a  horse.  He  can't  understand 
what  we  wish  to  do  with  names.  His  skin  is  dark,  his  nose 
is  slightly  flattened  and  broad  at  the  base,  with  wide 
nostrils ;  he  has  a  large  mouth,  thick  lips,  and  his  voice  is 
guttural.  At  first  I  was  strongly  impressed  with  the  African 
cast  of  his  features,  l^ut  I  see  now  that  while  there  is  a 
resemblance,  the  differences  are  such  that  Sheikh  Musa 
could  not  possibly  belong  to  that  race.  He  is  rather  slow 
in  his  movements,  and  in  some  other  particulars  besides 
color  and  features  he  is  totally  unlike  the  Arabs  of  the 
desert.  I  have  described  him  fully,  because  he  is  a  repre- 
sentative of  the  Ghawarineh  Arabs,  whom  the  Bedawin 
of  the  desert  do  not  regard  as  possessing  pure  blood,  and 
hence  they  will  not  intermarry  with  them. 

Along  this  valley  where  the  sides  of  the  mountain  are 
exposed  for  two  thousand  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  one 
has  a  good  opportunity  to  study  the  geology  of  the  region. 
On  the  south  as  well  as  on  the  north  side,  both  limestone 
and  basalt  appear ;  but  on  the  north  side  the  basalt  predom- 
inates, while  on  the  south  side  it  is  the  limestone  which 
predominates.  At  two  points,  from  two  to  three  miles 
apart,  it  is  all  limestone  on  the  soiTth  and  all  basalt  on  the 
north  side. 

I  have  mentioned  the  great  bend  in  the  valley  where,  at 
the  bottom  of  the  mountain  on  the  north,  white  Hmestoue 


AI'HEK.  171 

appeared  for  fifty  or  more  feet,  and  above  that  the  basalt. 
This  basalt  lies  in  horizontal  strata.  But  upon  this  layer, 
which  is  anywhere  from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred  feet 
thick,  there  seems  to  be  a  mixture  of  basalt  and  limestone. 
Above  this,  again,  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  including 
all  the  great  plateau  east  of  the  Sea  of  G-alilee,  the  forma- 
tion is  basalt.  Some  of  the  limestone  last  referred  to  is 
of  a  poor  quality,  appearing  like  conglomerate  rock,  full 
of  flint  and  other  rounded  stones.  As  the  entire  Bashan 
plain  is  a  basaltic  formation  lapping  over  on  the  limestone 
ut  which  the  formation  of  the  Gilead  hills  consists, 
and  as  the  thick  bed  of  white  limestone  which  I  have 
described  as  at  the  very  bottom  of  the  bed  of  the  Menadireh 
is  more  than  five  hundred  feet  below  the  level  of  the 
Mediterranean,  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  depth  to 
which  the  limestone  extends,  and  of  the  thickness  of  the 
overlying  and  overlapping  basalt. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
The  Jordan  Valley. 

Fording  the  river  at  El  Hamma.  A  highly  recommended  crossing 
proves  a  poor  one.  Loaded  mules  falling.  'Ain  et  Tubag.  Camels 
at  Ma'ad.  View  from  the  hills  west  of  Gadara.  Kaukab,  on  the 
west  of  the  Jordan.  Bedawin  in  the  valley.  Tents  numbered  by 
hundreds.  Arabs  direct  us  to  a  good  camping-place.  Francolin. 
Smyrna  kingfishers.  Collared  turtle-doves.  Grass  and  water.  Sce- 
nery in  the  Jordan  valley  and  about  our  camp,  Arab  camp-fires. 
Graceful  palms. 

Camp   of   the  Palm-Trees,  March  8,  1876. 

OUR  camp  is  near  the  river,  just  opposite  Beisaii,  but 
there  is  no  town  or  village  here,  nothing  but  a 
broad  plain,  with  a  bright  sun  above  us  by  day  and  a  glori- 
ous moon  at  night.  We  are  six  hours  and  thirty  minutes 
below  El  Hamma  on  the  Menadireh.  Within  sight,  a  little 
to  the  north  of  east,  is  Tell  Arb'ain,  and  on  one  of  the  foot- 
hills to  the  east  is  'Arak  er  Rashdan,  a  ruined  village 
which  is  deserted  most  of  the  time,  l)ut  which  at  present  is 
inhabited.  Below  us,  and  apparently  very  near,  but  in 
reality  two  miles  distant,  there  are  sixty  or  more  black 
tents,  and  to-night  we  can  see  the  camp-fires,  while  during 
the  day  this  Arab  encampment  has  been  surrounded  by 
great  herds  of  cattle.  ' 


THE  JORDAN    VALLEY.  173 

We  left  El  Hamma  yesterday,  the  7tli,  at  8.30  A.  M, 
The  Menadii-eh  was  high,  but  had  fallen  a  good  deal 
since  Monday  morning.  The  Ai-abs  showed  us  what  they 
thought  was  a  better  crossing  than  the  usual  one  leading 
to  Um  Keis,  which  was  just  opposite  our  camp.  This  new 
ford  proved  to  be  very  rough,  as,  indeed,  all  of  them  are, 
although  the  water  was  not  so  deep.  The  current  was 
strong,  and  two  mules  went  down  with  their  loads.  The 
muleteers  had  stripped,  in  order  to  help  the  mules 
across,  and  be  ready  in  case  of  any  accident.  One  mule 
was  within  ten  feet  of  the  opposite  shore  when  he  fell. 
Fortunately  his  load  was  not  very  important,  and  the  dam- 
age done  to  it  by  wetting  was  not  serious.  The  other  fell 
in  the  middle  of  the  stream.  It  was  oui'  servant's  mule,  and 
the  servant  was  riding  him.  This  man  and  mule  carry  our 
lunch,  and  odds  and  ends  of  baggage  which  we  need  on  the 
way.  The  poor  mule  struggled  and  tried  several  times  to 
rise,  biit  this  was  impossible,  and  aU  he  could  do  was  to 
keep  his  nose  above  water.  The  men  hastened  to  him  and 
cut  his  load  loose ;  after  a  while,  with  their  assistance,  he 
got  up  and  made  his  way  to  the  shore,  while  the  men 
brought  the  load.  He  came  out  where  I  was  standing.  He 
was  thoroughly  drenched.  His  ears  were  pressed  down  as 
close  as  possible  to  liis  neck,  and  he  had  put  on  the  most 
disgusted  look  that  he  was  master  of.  He  presented  a 
comical  appearance,  and  I  could  not  help  laughing  at  him. 

Crossing  and  starting  again  occupied  us  about  one  horn*. 
We  then  wound  around  the  brow  of  the  hill  without  going 
as  far  up  as  the  ruins  of  Gradara,  passed  'Ain  et  Tubag,  and 
came  down  to  the  Jordan  plain  some  distance  north  of 
Wady  'Arab,  the  great  wady  which  is  just  south  of  Gadara 
or  Um  Keis.  Ma'ad  or  Sheikh  Ma'ad,  is  just  north  of  Wady 
'Arab,  and  on  the  stream  are  the  remains  of  a  ruined  bridge. 
There  were  a  large  number  of  camels  here.     From  the 


174 


EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 


brow  of  the  hill,  where  we  passed  over  it,  we  had  a  splendid 
view  of  the  great  valley,  which  is  one  of  the  finest  I  ever 
looked  down  upon.  The  mountains  to  the  west,  the  beauti- 
ful lake  to  the  north,  and  the  great  dome  of  Hermon  still 
farther  up  in  the  same  direction ;  the  long  reach  of  plain  to 
the  south  through  which  the  remai'kably  winding  river  was 
flowing,  the  valley  itself  dotted  with  groups  of  black  tents 
and  herds  of  cattle,  and  carpeted  with  great  fields  of  wheat, 
— all  these  formed  a  striking  picture,  which  I  gazed  upon 


Castle     of     Kaukab    el     Hauwa,    as    seen     Across    the    Jordan     Valley 
from    the     Hills    South    of    Gadara. 


with  deepest  interest.  Among  the  interesting  landmarks  in 
the  mountains  to  the  west  was  the  castle  of  Kaukab,  and  at 
one  point  we  could  see  through  the  trenches  which  exist 
on  the  north  and  south  of  it,  as  in  the  above  sketch. 
Besides  the  fields  of  grain,  there  were  very  many  acres  of 
ploughed  land,  and  I  counted  with  my  glass  upwai'ds  of 
twenty  pairs  of  cattle  ploughing.  1  counted  also  the  black 
tents  until  the  number  reached  something  more  than  two 
hundred,  and  I  suppose  that  during  the  day  we  saw  in  all 
between  three  hundred  and  four  liundred  of  them.     The 


THE  JORDAN   VALLEY.  175 

Bedawin  are  very  numerous  in  the  valley  just  now.  They 
have  some  fine  cattle,  and  sheep  and  goats  ahnost  without 
number.  Persons  belonging  to  the  encampment  which  I  have 
mentioned  as  being  two  miles  below  us,  have  brought  us 
milk,  and  our  men  have  been  down  for  barley  for  our  animals. 
While  on  oui*  way  here,  yesterday,  we  inquired  of  different 
Arabs  whom  we  met  about  a  suitable  place  for  camping.  The 
last  man  we  asked  said :  "In  about  an  hour  you  will  come  to 
a  place  where  there  is  water,  and  palms,  and  Arabs,  and  milk, 
and  butter,  and  everything  else  you  want."  We  found  the 
place  in  about  the  time  he  had  indicated,  and  the  palm-trees, 
but  the  Arabs  had  moved.  We  were  near  their  old  camp- 
ing-place and  could  still  smell  them.  One  sickly,  forlorn 
dog  was  left  and  did  not  seem  disposed  to  go  on.  I  tried  to 
befriend  him  and  gave  him  some  bread ;  but  our  own  dogs 
barked  at  him,  and  I  am  afraid  that  they  do  not  respect  or 
pity  the  poor.  We  found  excellent  water  here, — the  Jordan, 
of  course,  and  also  Wady  Arb'ain,,  in  which  flows  now  a  good- 
sized  stream  of  clear,  sweet  water.  There  are  about  a  dozen 
palm-trees  near  our  camp,  and  a  number  of  very  large  sidr- 
trees.  Some  of  these  palms  are  tall,  fine  specimens,  and 
there  are  also  near  them  the  remains  or  the  stumps  of 
others,  which  are  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high.  The  whole 
valley,  from  Tiberias  on  the  north  to  the  Dead  Sea  on  the 
south,  might,  with  proper  cultivation,  be  covered  with  great 
forests  of  palms. 

Beisan  is  on  the  opposite  bank,  distant  from  the  river  one 
hour  or  more,  but  we  cannot  cross  over  to  it,  on  account  of 
the  high  water.  We  can  look  into  the  mouth  of  the  valley, 
which,  indeed,  is  a  great  plain,  and  which  runs  up  to  Tabor 
and  Esdraelon. 

There  is  considerable  game  here,  including  birds,  and  we 
have  ah-eady  made  valuable  additions  to  our  natural  history 
collection.     Soon  after  our  arrival  last  night,  I  shot  eight 


17G  EAST  OF   THE  JORDAN. 

collared  turtle-doves — as  Dr.  Tristram  calls  them — or  ring- 
doves, and  one  pigeon,  also  a  kestrel  and  a  magnificent 
Smyrna  kingfisher.  Van  Dyck  also  shot  several  doves,  a 
Smyrna  kingfisher,  a  spur-wing  plover,  and  one  or  more 
fi'ancolin.  To-night  I  have  set  our  trap  again.  I  have  not 
much  faith  in  it,  and  fear  it  is  a  failure.  The  Jordan  at 
some  points  near  us  is  lined  with  tamarisks  and  canes,  and 
there  is  every  evidence  that  wild  animals  of  several  kinds 
abound  here. 

One  who  enjoys  scenery  finds  much  to  attract  him  in  the 
Jordan  valley.  To-night  especially  the  moon  is  lovely;  the 
sky,  fields,  and  hills,  the  Jordan  running  here  and  glisten- 
ing there,  with  Arab  camp-fires  in  the  distance, — in  the 
vaUey  or  on  the  hill-side, — and  our  tents,  above  which  tall, 
graceful  palms  seem  to  be  watching,  form  elements  in  the 
picture  which  I  have  looked  upon  and  greatly  enjoyed. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

The  Jordan  Valley. — Continued. 

Sabbath  in  the  valley.  All  nature  alive.  The  roar  of  insects.  Ich- 
neumons at  play.  Sacrificing  our  table  comforts  rather  than  our 
natural  history  collection.  Our  muleteers  fond  of  birds  which  we 
consider  "unclean."  Wheat  fields.  Canals.  A  tomb  and  store- 
house for  property.  Savage  sidr  bushes.  Thistles.  Mustard. 
Weeds.  Convenience  of  a  sole-leather  suit.  "Crackling  of  thorns 
under  a  pot."  Rubber  boots.  Tell  Arb'ain.  An  old  wine-press. 
Wady  Hammet  Abu  Dhableh.  Natural  bridge.  Hot  spring.  A 
Turkoman  tribe.  Fah'l,  or  Pella.  Ruins.  Tombs.  Arab  camp  and 
Egyptian  vultures.  Fresh  graves.  The  Yabis.  The  Grhazawiyeh 
Arabs.  Disease  among  sheep.  Ceremony  of  sacrificing  one  of  the 
flock  in  order  that  God  might  drive  away  the  disease.  Kurkama. 
Halawi.  Sheikh  in  a  bad  mood.  Ed  Deir  Halawi.  Down  the  gorge 
of  the  Yabis.  Driven  out.  Hajeijeh.  A  secluded  and  romantic 
place.  Towns  built  in  the  foot-hills.  A  band  of  gypsies.  Broken 
mill-stone  in  a  quarry. 

Camp  at  Wady  Yabis,   Jordan  Valley, 
Sunday,  March  12,   1876. 

TO-DAY  I  hoped  to  read  a  great  deal,  but  it  is  almost 
eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  and  I  have  just  com- 
menced. It  occupied  me  nearly  all  the  forenoon  to  take  care 
of  my  flowers, — work  which  must  be  done  or  they  would 
spoil.  After  dinner  some  Bedawin  sheikhs  came  and  stayed 
a  long  time ;  when  they  had  gone  I  tried  to  take  a  nap,  but 
was  awakened  by  the  cold  nose  of  one  of  our  dogs  in  con- 
8* 


178  EAST  OF  THE  JOBBAN. 

tact  witli  my  own,  and  so  gave  it  up.  I  then  went  to  the 
top  of  one  of  the  foot-hills  in  the  rear  of  our  tents,  over- 
looking the  lower  portion  of  Wady  Yabis,  in  order  to  enjoy 
the  view  of  the  great  valley  stretching  out  before  me  and 
on  either  hand,  through  which  ran  the  Jordan  in  its  wind- 
ing course,  and  beyond  which  rose  the  magnificent  hills 
of  Western  Palestine. 

I  can  hardly  express  how  thankful  I  was  this  morning 
for  a  day  of  rest ;  even  though  I  knew  I  could  not  enjoy 
or  observe  it  in  the  way  I  should  were  I  at  home.  But  it 
has  been  a  perfect  summer  day,  like  one  of  those  during  the 
last  part  of  June  or  the  first  part  of  July  in  New  England, 
when  the  weather  is  sweltering.  All  nature  is  alive  here ; 
trees,  shrubs,  grass,  flowers  are  growing  with  all  their  might. 
The  air  is  thick  with  the  steam  of  rank,  luxuriant  vegetation. 
At  home  we  talk  about  "  the  hum  of  insects."  It  is  not  an 
exaggeration  to  say  that  the  air  here  has  been  filled  with  the 
roar  of  insects.  As  I  sat  on  the  hill-top  just  refeiTcd  to, 
the  volume  of  sound  swelled  up  from  the  gi*eat  plain  and 
filled  the  sky.  I  never  before  witnessed  or  experienced 
anything  of  the  kind  so  impressive  as  this.  It  was  inspir- 
ing to  realize  that  I  was  suiTounded  by  so  much  vocal  life, 
as  weU.  as  by  an  infinite  world  of  life  that  coidd  express 
itself  only  by  greenness,  fragrance,  and  beauty.  But  the 
day,  with  aU  its  loveliness,  was  fearfully  hot.  At  noon  it 
was  709  in  our  tent,  and  as  uncomfortable  as  100°  would 
be  in  New  England.  Towards  night  some  clouds  and  a 
slight  breeze  came  up,  and  this  evening  the  air  is  quite 
,cool.  The  broken  clouds,  as  they  pass  before  the  sun, 
throw  some  beautiful  shadows  on  the  hills  and  plains. 
One  day  recently,  I  saw  a  large  section  of  the  Jordan  plain 
which  appeared  to  have  l^een  transformed  into  a  lake.  AU 
my  companions  said  that  the  resemblance  was  striking 
and  perfect.    Any  person  seeing  it  suddenly  would  have 


THE  JORDAN  VALLEY.  179 

exclaimed :  "  Yonder  is  a  lake  twenty  or  thirty  miles  in 
length,  and  how  beautiful  it  is ! "  But  that  section  was 
covered  by  a  dense  cloud  which  stood  above  it,  all  around 
which  the  sun  was  pouring  down  its  rays. 

Yesterday  I  saw  a  pair  of  ichneumons  at  play,  and 
watched  them  with  my  glass,  but  they  were  beyond  the 
reach  of  my  gun.  They  are  the  fii-st  that  I  have  ever 
had  a  fair  sight  of,  or  that  I  have  been  able  to  observe 
carefully.  They  are  graceful  animals,  of  a  reddish  color, 
about  eighteen  inches  in  length,  and  move  about  slyly,  like 
weasels.  We  have  seen  hyenas  and  jackals ;  in  fact,  jack- 
als visit  us  every  night  and  come  close  to  our  tents,  but 
none  of  them  come  in  and  sm-render  at  discretion.  We 
have  fifty  specimens  of  birds.  We  have  a  dish  of  game 
now  and  then,  in  fact,  almost  every  day  we  have  some ;  but 
we  always  make  it  a  rule  to  sacrifice  oiu*  table  to  our  nat- 
ural history  collection.  If  we  need  a  bird  for  a  specimen, 
we  faU  back  on  boiled  ham  for  meat.  Some  birds,  however, 
are  too  badly  injured  in  shooting  to  make  good  specimens, 
and  these,  provided  it  is  allowable  to  eat  them,  are  put  into 
our  cook's  hands.  But  I  have  discovered  that  certain  birds 
which  we  ourselves  do  not  consider  suitable  to  eat,  our 
muleteers  serve  up  and  make  of  them  an  enjoyable  dish. 
As  a  single  illustration,  I  may  mention  crows  and  jack- 
daws, which  we,  of  course,  throw  away,  but  which  our 
muleteers  save,  cook,  and  eat. 

Between  the  Menadireh  and  the  Yabis  there  are  a  number 
of  wadies,  which  have  living  springs  and  quite  large  streams 
flowing  in  them.  These  streams  are  carried  in  numerous 
canals  over  the  plain  for  the  purpose  of  irrigation.  The 
weather  is  so  hot  that  the  wheat  would  be  parched  and 
withered  without  maturing  if  not  abimdantly  watered.  But 
where  it  is  irrigated  it  is  rich  and  rank.  On  the  tenth  of 
this  month  I  gathered  some  stalks  that  were  headed,  and  in 


180  EAST  OF   THE  JORDAN. 

a  few  days  all  the  earliest  fields  will  be  so.  I  noticed  wheat 
at  three  or  four  different  heights,  generally  two  or  three  in 
the  same  or  adjoining  fields,  and  I  learned  that  a  difference 
of  a  few  days  was  made  in  the  sowing  of  these,  in  order 
that  the  grain  might  not  all  ripen  at  once ;  for  the  people 
have  neither  the  men  nor  the  appliances  to  harvest  it,  if  all 
the  fields  should  ripen  at  the  same  time.  The  canals  from 
the  Yabis  are  numerous,  and  carry  the  water  over  many 
square  miles.  One  man,  with  whom  we  talked  in  the  field 
where  he  was  at  work,  said  he  had  the  use  of  that  canal — 
a  certain  one  to  which  he  pointed — every  fourth  day. 

Just  below  us,  about  one  mile  distant,  is  a  large  wely  on  a 
small  tell  or  mound ;  about  it  are  numerous  small  mud  and 
stone,  or  reed  houses,  and  from  a  distance  the  place  looks  like 
a  village ;  but  it  is  the  storehouse  or  the  barn  of  the  region. 
There  are  not  only  these  small  low  houses  on  the  surface  of 
the  ground,  but  the  hill  itself  is  full  of  holes.  There  must 
be  fifty  or  more  in  this  one  hill.  They  are  eight  to  twelve 
feet  in  depth,  and  six  feet  and  upwards  in  diameter.  In 
these  grain  is  stored.  The  holes  are  sometimes  lined  with 
a  thin  coating  of  reeds,  and  the  grain  is  then  put  in,  and  the 
whole  covered  with  straw.  We  were  assured  that  the  grain 
does  not  mould  or  get  wet,  but  keeps  very  well.  Besides, 
this  wely,  which  is  the  tomb  of  some  saint  or  prophet,  pro- 
tects the  grain  from  thieves.  The  Arabs  declare  that  "  no 
one  can  steal  it,"  which  means  that  no  one  would  dare  to  do 
so,  lest  some  terrible  curse  should  fall  upon  him  from  the 
neby,  or  prophet.  Thus  their  grain  —  and  it  is  the  principal 
thing  they  place  there — is  as  safe  as  it  woidd  be  under  the 
strongest  bars,  bolts,  and  locks.  This  is  certainly  an  easy 
and  convenient  method  of  locking  up  property ;  but  I  won- 
der how  it  would  work  in  America  to  biuld  a  savings-bank 
in  that  way,  with  only  the  tombstone  of  George  Washing- 
ton or  Lyman  Beecher  to  guard  it ! 


THE  JORDAN   VALLEY.  181 

No  one  who  has  not  experienced  it  can  realize  the 
savage  nature  of  these  sidr  bushes  and  trees,  which  are 
so  abundant  in  this  valley.  Sometimes,  by  accident,  one 
gets  jostled  against  a  bush  of  that  kind,  and  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  extricate  one's  self  from  its  grasp. 
When  a  fine  bird  was  perched  upon  such  a  tree,  we 
seldom  shot  it,  but  waited  until  it  flew  elsewhere,  for 
if  when  shot  it  fell  into  the  sidr-bush  it  was  generally 
impossible  to  recover  it,  and  we  gave  it  up  for  lost. 
Trees,  shrubs,  weeds,  and  flowers,  and,  in  fact,  almost  all 
"kinds  of  plants  in  this  country,  appear  to  be  armed  with 
thorns.  A  field  of  thistles  wOl  sometimes  send  us  a  mile  or 
more  out  of  our  way  in  order  to  go  around  it,  for  we  could 
not  make  our  way  through  it.  Besides  the  mustard,  which 
is  often  as  high  as  my  shoulders  when  on  horseback,  fennel 
stalks  are  likewise  ten  and  twelve  feet  in  height.  It  gi'ows 
wild  here,  and  the  seeds  have  the  same  taste  as  the  sweet 
fennel,  which  we  cultivate  at  home.  The  farmer  or  gardener 
in  America  often  complains  of  the  weeds ;  but  here  I  could 
show  him  the  paradise  of  weeds,  out  of  which  it  would  be 
difficult  to  wade  without  assistance,  or  climb  without  a 
ladder.  I  have  forced  my  way  through  them  for  an 
hour  at  a  time  without  once  seeing  the  ground  except 
where  I  trod  them  down,  my  head  and  shoulders  only 
appearing  above  the  great  sea  of  color.  In  wading  through 
oceans  of  weeds  and  thistles,  and  struggling  with  sidr- 
bushes,  where  I  am  constantly  scratched,  torn,  and 
bruised,  I  have  often  thought  how  convenient  a  sole-leather 
suit  would  be.  One  of  the  most  difiBcult  tasks  I  have  to 
perform  is  that  of  mending  my  clothes  after  a  day's 
experience  with  these  thistles,  sidr-trees,  and  other 
thorny  shrubs,  and  likewise  with  the  rocks  in  these  wild 
ravines  and  with  the  stones  in  the  various  ruins.  I  could 
get  along  better  if  my  hands  did  not  become  scratched, 


182  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

bruised,  and  stiffened  in  this  rough  work.  There  is  one 
passage  of  Scripture  uppermost  in  my  mind  at  such  times, 
namely,  where  it  speaks  of  "  the  crackling  of  thorns  under 
a  pot."  I  get  a  good  deal  of  comfort  from  those  words, 
"the  crackling  of  thorns,"  for* I  realize  that,  although  they 
may  tear  my  flesh  and  clothes,  yet  they  can  be  subdued  by 
fire.  The  satisfaction  comes  from  thinking  of  these  cruel 
persecutors  as  being  consumed  by  the  flames. 

One  article  which  I  brought  with  me  from  civilized  lands 
has  been  of  very  great  service  on  this  trip,  and  that  is  my 
pair  of  rubber  boots.  Small  streams  and  marshes,  of  which 
there  are  many,  I  can  defy,  to  a  certain  extent,  if  I  have  them 
on.  At  one  place  on  the  Jordan,  I  came  near  losing*  my 
boots,  and  myself,  too,  by  getting  into  the  mire ;  for  every 
time  1  raised  my  foot  I  brought  u.p  about  ten  pounds  of 
clay  and  mud.  It  was  only  with  the  help  of  some  bushes 
that  I  got  out,  after  a  struggle  of  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

Tell  Arb'ain,  some  distance  east  of  our  camp  at  the  palm- 
trees,  is  double,  or,  in  fact,  it  is  composed  of  three  mounds, — 
a  large  one  in  two  parts,  and  a  small  one, —  and  beside 
them  are  fine  fountains.  Our  Arabs  called  oui*  attention 
to  a  great  rock,  or  bouJder,  of  enormous  size,  which  had 
been  hollowed  out,  with  a  deep  vat  at  one  end.  They  said 
it  was  an  old  tannery ;  afterwards  they  said  it  was  an  old 
press.  It  is  not  probable  that  they  knew  its  use.  It  was 
evidently  an  old  wine-press,  and  as  such  is  an  important 
relic.  At  'Arak  er  Rashdan,  the  building  material  appears 
to  have  l)een  brought  from  elsewhere.  At  Mirga'ah,  or 
Mirka'ah,  twenty-five  minutes  south  of  'Arak  er  Rashdan, 
there  are  some  good  foundations,  and  the  place  is  one 
which  could  easily  have  been  fortified.  There  are  two 
hiUs,  and  of  these  the  one  nearest  the  Jordan  plain  is  the 
higher.  The  other  is  east,  and  nearer  the  mountains.  The 
place  is  situated  just  north  of  Wady  Abu  Ziyad.     Forty 


THE  JORDAN   VALLEY. 


183 


minutes  south  of  tlie  ruin  last  mentioned  is  Wady  Ham- 
met  Abu  Dhableh,  on  which,  at  a  distance  of  a  mile  and  a 
half  to  the  east  of  the  vaUey,  is  a  fine  natural  bridge  and  a 
hot  spring.  The  spring  is  eight  feet  in  diameter,  and  a  good- 
sized  stream  issues  from  it.  There  is  here  no  outlook,  but 
the  ruins  show  that  the  spring  has  been  cared  for  and  util- 
ized.  Its  temperature  is  103°.   The  bridge  is  thirty  feet  wide, 


Natural    Bridge   and    Hot    Spring    North    of    Pella. 

about  one  hundred  feet  high,  not  far  from  three  hundred 
feet  long,  and  its  single  great  arch  is  thirty  feet  high  at  the 
highest  point.  The  wady  runs  from  east  to  west,  and  its 
banks  are  very  steep.  One  crosses  the  bridge  from  the 
south,  and  from  its  north  end  descends  to  the  spring. 
Neither  Robinson  nor  Ritter  mentions  this  spring,  nor  is  it 
noticed  in  the  valuable  and  scientific  work  of  Lartet.  Neu- 
bauer  refers  to  a  passage  in  the  Jerusalem  Talmud  where 


184  EAST   OF  THE  JOBBAN. 

the  words  "  Hauitha  of  Fali'l "  occur  in  connection  witli  the 
travels  of  a  certain  Rabbi  Zeira,  which  he  is  inclined  to 
identify  with  Pella,  although  he  does  not  seem  to  be  aware 
of  the  existence  of  any  hot  spring.  The  formation  at  the 
bridge  is  conglomerate  limestone,  with  layers  of  red  sand- 
stone. 

Just  south  and  east  of  the  bridge,  on  a  plateau,  or  large 
natural  terrace,  were  a  few  Arab  tents,  from  which  the 
men  were  absent,  but  a  few  women  were  left,  besides  a 
dozen  boys  and  dogs.  One  of  the  women  came  out  with  a 
large  dish  of  buttermilk,  which  my  companions  said  was 
very  nice.  She  had  small  feafcrn-es,  but  was  of  fair  size,  and 
was  nearly  white,  with  an  intelligent,  pleasant  face.  By  her 
features  and  general  appearance,  it  was  evident  that  she 
was  not  related  to  the  Arabs  of  the  valley,  or  to  those  of  the 
desert.  Her  language  also  was  strange.  She  spoke  Arabic 
poorly,  and  could  not  speak  Turkish.  Our  horsemen  said 
she  was  Turkoman,  but  this  I  understood  that  she  denied. 

Thirty-five  minutes  from  this  natural  bridge  are  the 
ruins  of  Tubakat  Fah'l,  on  the  stream  called  Jirm  el 
Moz.  The  supply  of  water  is  abundant,  and  the  situation 
delightful.  The  large  fountain  was  surrounded  by  elegant 
buildings,  and  some  of  the  columns  which  remain  are 
forty -three  inches  in  diameter.  South  of  the  fountain  there 
is  a  sharp,  high  hill,  the  sides  of  which  appear  to  be  artifi- 
cial, and.on  the  top  there  are  ruins.  On  the  hill,  just  behind 
or  east  of  the  town,  ai'e  the  remains  of  a  church,  and  in 
fi'ont  of  the  city  the  remains  of  another  of  immense  size. 
The  hills  in  the  vicinity  are  full  of  tombs,  some  of  which 
have  recently  been  opened,  either  by  Arabs  or  by  parties 
from  villages  west  of  the  Jordan.  On  one  of  our  visits  to 
the  place,  we  met  there  some  Christian  merchants  from 
Nazareth,  who  were  friends  of  Mr.  Zeller.  These  men 
were  familiar  with  the  ruins,  and  called  oiu*  attention  to 
many  facts  of  interest.     Over  one  of  the   newly  opened 


THE  JOBDAN   VALLEY.  185 

tombs  was  a  Greek  inscription^  ^C)^  cpopov  ("The  Light  of  the 
Foriun  "),  from  which  we  infer  that  the  tomb  belonged  to 
some  important  pnblic  man  in  Pella.  The  door  of  this 
tomb  was  thirty-seven  inches  wide,  five  feet  high,  and  seven 
and  a  half  inches  thick.  It  had  three  locnh.  The  inscription, 
short  as  it  is,  occupied  thirty-thi-ee  inches  on  the  lintel.  Of 
the  other  tombs  I  examined  thirty  or  more.  Some  had 
thirteen  locnli  each.  In  one  or  more  of  these  I  could  stand 
upright,  and  in  the  walls  there  were  niches  for  lamps.  It 
appeared  to  me  that  in  some  cases  the  waUs  separating  the 
locuh  had  been  cut  out,  so  as  to  form  a  chamber  of  a  house, 
for  some  of  the  tombs  have  evidently  been  used  as  dwellings. 
In  those  of  the  largest  size,  columns  of  the  native  rock  had 
been  left  to  support  the  ceiling.  The  hill-sides  near  these 
tombs  are  strewn  with  sarcophagi,  or  with  pieces  of  the 
same.  Over  the  entrance  to  one  tomb  two  birds  were 
sculptured,  which  resembled  a  cock  and  a  dove. 

South-east  of  these  tombs,  following  the  Roman  road 
(from  PeUa  to  Gerasa)  around  the  head  of  a  deep  wady, 
where  it  had  been  excavated  in  the  rock,  we  came  one  day 
upon  an  Arab  camping-ground  which  had  just  been  deserted. 
In  fact,  the  rear-guard  had  not  left.  A  few  women  were 
picking  up  the  odds  and  ends  of  camp  property,  and  they 
were  attended  by  several  dogs,  while  vultures,  called 
Pharaoh's  chickens  or  Egyptian  vultures,  were  hovering 
over  the  place,  and  lighting  here  and  there  on  the  ground  in 
search  of  food.  The  rude  circle  of  stone  in  which  the 
people  had  made  their  beds  of  reeds  and  grass  still  re- 
mained, also  charred  bits  of  wood,  and  not  many  yards 
away  I  noticed  three  or  four  fresh  graves.  Among  the 
Arabs,  when  the  poor  body  is  done  with  life  it  is  put 
out  of  sight,  and  its  resting-place  is  soon  forgotten.  The 
living  do  not  lay  to  heart  the  death  of  friends. 

In  the  Jordan  valley,  in  the  region  of  the  Yabis,  there 
are  a  good  many  zuggum-trees  loaded  now  with  green  fruit 


186  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

about  the  size  of  large  plums.  These  are  used  as  a  healing* 
remedy ;  if  crushed  and  laid  on  bruises  or  sprains,  relief  is 
obtained.  About  Fah'l,  the  hills  are  covered  with  a  large 
weed  called  Jcalkh.  It  grows  high,  is  intensely  green,  and 
has  a  yellow  blossom.  Sometimes  it  grows  as  high  as  ten 
feet,  and  is  a  strong,  rank,  shrub-like  weed.  The  Arabs  say 
that  if  sheep  eat  it  when  it  is  young  it  will  kDl  them,  but 
will  not  when  it  is  old. 

At  the  Yabis  we  fell  in  with  the  Ghazawlyeh  Arabs,  differ- 
ent entirely  from  the  Ghawarineh.  The  Ghawarineh  are 
named  from  the  locality  which  they  occupy,  as,  for  example, 
the  Ghawarineh  of  Tiberias  and  the  Ghawarineh  of  Nimriu. 
The  Ghazawlyeh  and  the  Ghawarineh  do  not  intermarry. 

The  distance  from  Fah'l  to  our  camp  at  the  palm-trees 
was  usually  made  in  one  hour  and  a  half.  As  we  looked 
west  and  north  over  the  plain,  we  saw  many  black  tents 
scattered  at  different  points,  and  far  beyond  them  our  own, 
appearing  like  white  dots  on  a  field  of  green.  But  the  dis- 
tance from  the  palm-trees  to  the  Yabis  was  about  tliree 
hours.  Rather  more  than  midway,  or  about  three  miles 
north  of  the  Yabis,  there  is  a  large  marsh  covering  many 
acres,  and  from  the  hills  it  looks  like  a  lake.  It  is  full  of 
water- fowl,  and  we  secured  here  some  rare  birds.  The  name 
of  the  marsh  is  Birket  Marazzah, 

When  returning  to  camp,  one  afternoon,  we  saw  a  gi'eat 
commotion  near  an  Ai-ab  encampment,  and  five  large  flocks 
of  sheep  near  by.  A  di-um  was  being  beaten,  and  people 
were  running  towards  the  place  whence  the  noise  pro- 
ceeded. The  sheildi  told  us  that  a  disease  had  appeared 
among  the  sheep,  and  the  people  thought  that  by  sacrificing 
one  (which  they  took  from  any  flock  at  random),  God  would 
be  pleased  and  drive  away  the  disease. 

The  region,  both  on  the  north  and  on  the  south  of  Wady 
Yabis,  is  a  very  interesting  one.     Following  up  the  only 


THE  JORDAN   VALLEY.  187 

feasible  road  on  the  soutli  side  of  the  wady,  Kurkama  is 
reached  in  one  hour  from  our  camp  at  the  point  where  the 
wady  opens  on  the  plain,  and  the  village  of  Halawi  in  one 
hour  and  twenty  minutes  more.  The  sheikh  of  this  village 
seemed  to  be  offended  because  we  would  not  stop  and  enjoy 
his  hospitality.  We  could  not  persuade  him  that  our  time 
was  precious,  and  we  left  him  in  a  bad  mood.  On  a  sharp 
peak  to  the  north  of  the  town  is  a  ruin  called  Ed  Deir 
Halawi,  distant  forty  minutes.  It  is  very  difficult  of  access 
from  any  direction,  but  possesses  some  large  stones,  some 
columns,  one  arch,  and  a  great  supply  of  cisterns.  It  is  a 
sightly  place  and  commands  a  fine  "\dew  of  Beisan,  Tabor, 
fSafed,  and  other  points  in  the  far  west.  To  the  south,  two 
or  three  miles  beyond  Halawi,  the  village  of  Fara  is  seen, 
while  to  the  east  the  ground  descends  shai'ply  to  Wady 
Naum,  and  to  the  north  almost  perpendicularly  to  Wady 
Yabis.  We  went  down  to  the  east  and  then  north"  till  we 
reached  the  bottom  of  Wady  Yabis,  where,  on  the  bank  of 
the  stream,  we  took  our  lunch  in  the  shade  of  some  great 
olive-trees.  Thence  we  endeavored  to  make  our  way 
down  the  wady  itself  to  see  if,  by  following  it,  it  was  pos- 
sible to  reach  the  Jordan  valley.  This  proved  to  be  the 
most  romantic  trip  I  have  made  in  the  country.  There 
was  but  little  space  between  the  stream  and  the  cliffs,  and 
we  had  to  cross  the  stream  a  dozen  times.  For  the  first 
hoirr  the  scenery  was  the  wildest  that  I  had  yet  seen.  The 
sides  of  the  mountain  rose  perpendicularly  fifteen  hundred 
feet,  and  at  several  points  the  last  two  or  three  hundred  feet 
projected  beyond  the  rest  and  hung  over  our  heads.  Some- 
times the  gorge  widened  a  little,  and  at  such  points  would 
be  planted  a  single  row,  perhaps,  of  olive-trees.  The 
bottom  of  the  wady,  where  anything  could  grow,  was  a 
mass  of  canes  and  tropical  trees.  I  saw  almond-trees  fidl 
of  fruit  which   was   about   the  size  of  the  almonds   that 


188  EAST   OF  TEE  JORDAN. 

are  to  be  found  in  our  shops  at  home.  The  scenery  here 
cannot  be  adequately  described.  An  artist  should  by  all 
means  visit  this  remarkable  valley.  After  about  an  hour, 
the  walls  of  the  chasm  came  close  together,  and  formed  a 
series  of  labyrinths  down  which  it  was  impossible  to  go 
with  oiu'  horses,  whereupon  we  went  back  a  short  dis- 
tance, and  climbed  up  a  steep  place  on  the  north  side  where 
the  cliffs  had  parted.  After  a  mile  or  more  we  went  down 
and  tried  it  again,  and  got  along  very  well  for  a  couple  of 
miles,  when  we  were  driven  out  once  more,  and  did  not 
make  any  fiu'ther  attempt.  I  was  in  hopes  we  could  make 
the  whole  distance  along  the  bottom  of  the  wady.  Our 
horses  certainly  could  not  be  taken  down,  and  it  is  doubt- 
ful if  men,  even  the  shepherds,  could  make  their  way  along 
the  rugged  bed  of  this  valley. 

Besides  Ed  Deir  Halawi  and  tlje  village  of  Halawl,  Beit 
Idis,  Kefr  Awan,  Judeitha,  Maklub,  Miryamin,  Kurkama, 
and  the  other  neighboring  places  in  these  liills  have  been 
pretty  thoroughly  examined.  Among  these,  the  ruins  of 
Hajeijeh  deserve  special  notice.  It  is  one  of  the  finest 
sites  for  a  city  that  could  be  pointed  out  in  the  foot- 
hills bordering  the  Jordan  valley.  It  is  about  one  hour 
and  fifteen  minutes  south  of  Kui'kama,  and  not  quite  two 
hours  south  of  Wady  Yabis.  There  is  no  large  wady  at  this 
point,  but  the  mountains  break  down  into  small  hills 
between  which  is  a  ridge  running  east  and  west,  and  sloping 
on  the  north  and  south  sides  to  the  valleys  below.  In  each 
dh-ection  are  hills  higher  than  the  ridge  itself.  On  this 
ridge  are  the  ruins  of  a  town  of  considerable  size  and  ele- 
gance. South  of  it  is  an  immense  ledge  of  rocks  close  by, 
which  forms  a  precipice  over  which  water  flows, — a  beau- 
tiful cascade,  made  more  attractive  by  the  many  vines  and 
flowers  that  were  clinging  to  its  sides.  Beyond  this 
precipice    there  is   a  sharp  hill  two  hundred  feet  high, 


THE  JOBDAN   VALLEY.  189 

entirely  separate  from  the  mountain,  on  wMch  are  ruins. 
When  I  reached  the  summit  of  the  ridge  ah*eady  described, 
I  saw,  behind  the  precipice  and  the  waterfall,  a  small  but 
charming  valley,  the  bottom  of  which  was  completely  filled 
with  a  cluster  of  trees,  whose  branches  touched  each  other 
and  whose  tops  formed  a  perfect  oval,  and  just  before  them 
was  a  fountain  springing  from  the  rocks.  The  fountain  was 
a  lovely  one  and  at  least  two-thirds  of  the  town  was  below 
its  level.  When  I  reached  the  trees  referred  to,  I  found 
there  was  a  cluster  of  them, — in  all,  a  dozen  or  more, —  and 
beneath  their  branches,  which  touched  the  sides  of  the 
valley  all  around,  the  space  was  open  and  the  ground  clear, 
and  I  have  never  seen  a  more  charming  spot.  Tents  could 
be  pitched,  or  small  houses  built,  beneath  these  trees,  and 
one  might  have  a  house  in  a  location  which  all  the  world 
would  covet.  What  surprised  me  most  was  the  fact  that 
the  trees  which  made  this  place  so  lovely  were  my  great 
enemies,  the  savage,  thorny  sidr.  I  have  said  a  great  many 
hard  things  about  the  sidr-tree,  because  its  thorns  have  so 
often  torn  my  clothes  and  flesh ;  but  on  my  way  to  camp 
I  felt  like  repenting  and  taking  back  all  I  had  ever  said, 
and  asking  the  trees'  forgiveness.  The  superior  natural 
attractions  of  this  point  were  appreciated  in  ancient  times 
by  those  who  built  a  town  here,  and  it  would  be  gratify- 
ing if  we  could  discover  to  what  ancient  name,  if  any, 
Hajeijeh  corresponds,  or  at  least  what  was  the  former 
name  of  this  city. 

The  ruins  in  the  Jordan  valley  interest  me  by  their  situ- 
ation. On  the  flat  land  of  the  valley  very  few  are  found ; 
but,  instead,  they  are  located  in  the  foot-hills  and  near 
fountains,  or  on  living  streams  which  descend  from  the 
hills  above.  Such  towns  were  practically  in  the  valley, 
but,  in  many  cases,  just  off  the  main  thoroughfare  leading 
from  north  to  south,  and  so  situated  that,  while  they  had 


190 


EAST   OF  THE  J  OBI) AN. 


a  good  head  of  water  in  the  fountain  or  stream  behind 
them,  they  had  spread  out  before  them  the  fertile  plain, 
with  its  marvellously  winding  river,  beyond  which  the 
western  hUls  rose  in  grandeur. 

One  morning,  just  as  we  were  starting  out  from  the 
Yabis  for  our  day's  work,  a  band  of  strolling  musicians 
came  along,  who  had  with  them  one  of  the  largest  monkeys 
I  ever  saw.  They  were  gypsies,  and  we  had  frequently 
seen  persons  of  this  kind  wandering  about.  They  wanted 
to  entertain  us,  but  our  duties  were  too  pressing  to  pay 
them  any  attention.  If  they  had  had  a  hand-organ,  as 
well  as  a  monkey,  I  think  I  should  have  asked  them  for 
a  few  tunes  to  remind  me  of  my  native  land. 

At  Halawi  I  observed  that  the  people  had  large  numbers 
of  bees  in  hives,  but  I  did  not  learn  that  they  raised  honey 
for  sale. 

On  the  south  of  Wady  Yabis  we  found  a  quarry,  whence 
mill-stones  had  been  cut.  One  stone,  ten  feet  in  diameter, 
three  feet  thick,  with  slightly  oval  edge,  lay  about  one  and 
a  half  times  its  width  from  its  original  bed,  broken  into 
three  parts. 


Mill-Stone    in    a    Quarry    in    Jebel    'Ajlun. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

The  Jordan  Valley. — Continued. 

Possibility  of  forests  in  this  valley.  Makrukh,  or  a  natural  tunnel. 
Broad  valley  at  the  mouth  of  the  Zerka.  Multitude  of  camels.  My 
companion  thinks  they  frighten  the  quails.  Examination  of  the 
Lower  Zerka  and  the  mounds  in  the  plain.  Traces  of  hot  springs. 
Visit  to  Es  Salt.  View  over  the  valley  as  we  climbed  Jebel  Osha. 
Cold  weather.  Arabs  very  friendly.  Dogs  in  Es  Salt.  View  of  the 
Dead  Sea.  Hills  covered  with  terraces  for  vine  culture.  Attending 
church.  Call  from  the  native  pastor.  Making  bargains  with  Ai-abs. 
Writing  letters  and  journals.  In  the  Lower  Ghor.  Damieh  ford. 
Salt  spring.  A  "bethabara,"  or  ford-house.  Pasha  of  Nablus  and 
a  company  of  soldiers.  A  soldier  with  a  gun  is  a  legal  tax-collector. 
Kurn  Sartabeh.  Fine  view.  Angles  taken.  Fusail,  or  Phasalelis. 
Ancient  palm-groves.  Experience  in  the  jungles  on  the  banks  of 
the  Jordan.  Leopards  becoming  extinct  in  Sp'ia.  Geology  of  Jebel 
Osha. 

Camp  at  Es  Salt,  March  18,  1876. 

OUR  course  from  the  Yabis  was  south  along  the 
Jordan  valley  to  the  Zerka,  where  we  camped  for 
several  days  while  working  up  that  region.  For  six  miles 
or  more,  up  the  valley  north  of  the  Zerka,  the  plain  is 
covered  with  trees,  which,  from  a  distance,  have  the 
appearance  of  being  a  forest.  It  is  as  near  a  forest  as 
one  often  sees  in  Palestine.  It  suggested  to  me  what  this 
valley  might  produce  under  proper  care.     The  wheat  fields 


192  EAST   OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

which  we  passed  were  very  fine.  Wheat  fields  of  vast  size 
are  not  all  confined  to  the  prairies  of  the  West.  Those  in 
this  valley  make  a  splendid  show,  both  for  size  and  also  in 
the  matter  of  productiveness.  We  crossed  Wady  'Ajlun 
and  J  not  far  south  of  that,  Wady  Rajib,  in  both  of  which  are 
large  living  streams,  and  at  the  mouth  of  both  there  are 
also  important  ruins.  After  passing  Wady  Rajib,  the  cliff, 
or  rather  a  spur  of  the  mountain,  seemed  to  project  into 
the  valley,  or  plain,  far  beyond  the  general  line  of  the 
hills  themselves.  I  expected  that  we  must  go  over  it,  as 
the  road  did  not  appear  to  go  around  it  along  the  valley. 
When  I  came  quite  near  the  cliff,  the  road  turned  a 
little,  and  I  saw  a  great  natural  tunnel  leading  directly 
through  the  hills,  and  through  this  the  road  ran.  This 
tunnel  was  as  great  a  siu"prise  to  me  as  the  natural  bridge 
which  I  found  at  the  hot  spring  north  of  Fah'l,  or  Pella. 
Beyond  this  tunnel  the  valley  suddenly  broadened,  and 
formed  the  mouth  of  Wady  Zerka.  We  went  o\\  two  or 
three  miles,  crossed  the  Zerka,  and  camped  on  the  south 
bank,  under  the  shelter  of  a  projecting  hill.  About  the 
Zerka  were  multitudes  of  black  tents,  and  the  fields  were 
covered  with  camels.  The  Jordan  valley  pushes  up  into 
the  mountains  at  this  point  like  the  head  of  a  great  bay. 
The  Zerka  is  a  large  stream,  but  not  so  large  as  the 
Menadireh.  The  Arabs  just  here  and  to  the  south  of  us 
belong  to  the  Beni  Sakhr  tribe,  and  these  swarms  of 
camels  are  their  property.  They  have  come  dow^^  to  past- 
ure their  flocks  and  herds.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  I  have 
observed  these  camels,  notwithstanding  grass,  tender  herbs, 
and  shrubs  are  so  abundant,  biting  off  and  chewing  gi'eat 
mouthfuls  of  thistles  like  our  largest,  most  cruel  thistles 
at  home,  as  eagerly  as  an  ox  would  feed  upon  fresh 
clover.  It  may  be  they  do  it  to  sharpen  their  appetites,  and 
thistles  may  taste  to  them  somewhat  as  a  radish  does  to 


THE  JORDAN   VALLEY.  193 

an  Arab,  of  wliieh  vegetable  the  natives  of  both  town  and 
desert  are  very  fond. 

Van  Dyck  was  tempted  by  the  game  which  we  started 
on  the  ronte,  and  stopped  to  try  his  hick,  while  I  went  on 
alone  to  onr  camp.  As  it  was  past  Innch  hour  when  I 
arrived  there,  I  did  not  wait  for  him,  but  took  a  tin  plate, 
a  piece  of  cold  chicken,  a  few  dried  figs,  a  few  walnut 
meats,  and  a  tin  cup,  and  went  down  to  the  bank  of  the 
river  and  ate  my  lunch.  Meanwhile  I  was  entertained  by 
the  fish,  which  appeared  to  watch  me.  At  all  events,  they 
came  very  near  my  feet  and  seized  every  crumb  that  I 
dropped,  and  nibbled  at  the  chicken-bones  which  I  threw 
into  the  water. 

Some  days  were  spent  in  examining  all  the  lower  por- 
tion of  the  Zerka,  including  the  interesting  tells,  which 
exist  to  the  north  of  it  in  the  Jordan  vaUey.  These  mounds 
are  strange,  and  show  signs  of  having  been  occupied  in 
days  past.  Among  the  debris  with  which  they  are  covered, 
fragments  of  pottery  of  aU  colors  and  qualities  are  specially 
noticeable.  These  tells  ought  to  be  examined,  for  they  are 
evidently  artificial. 

There  was  formerly  at  the  mouth  of  the  Zerka  a  large  hot 
spring,  or  perhaps  more  than  one.  An  old  man,  belonging  to 
one  of  the  tribes  about  us,  whose  friendship  we  secured,  told 
us  that  when  he  was  a  boy  he  used  to  bathe  in  it,  although 
the  water  was  so  hot  that  he  could  hardly  bear  it.  But  in 
Ibrahim  Pasha's  time  (A.  D.  1832-'40),  a  great  canal,  which 
is  stiU  in  use,  was  dug  near  and  above  it  to  carry  water 
from  the  river,  and  thus  the  spring  was  ruined.  It  is  now 
nearly  filled  up,  and  the  water  is  merely  tepid.  There  is  a 
teU  near  it,  which  retains  the  name  Tell  el  Hamma,  and  also 
a  level  plain  just  about  the  spring  is  called  Ard  el  Hamma. 
The  words  "  el  Hamma  "  point  to  the  fact  of  hot  springs. 

We  left  our  camp  at  Wady  Zerka  this  morning  at  seven 
9 


194  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

o'clock,  and  climbed  the  mountain  tUl  we  reached  the 
summit,  and  then  went  along  the  ridge  about  one  hour 
to  Jebel  Osha.  While  on  the  ridge  we  had  a  splendid 
view  of  the  vast  Jordan  valley  more  than  four  thousand 
feet  below  us,  and  of  the  great  hills  beyond  the  river  to  the 
^  north  and  south  —  a  sweep  of  eighty  to  one  hundred  mUes  in 
extent.  Our  camp  on  the  Zerka  was  between  six  hundred 
and  seven  hundred  feet  below  the  level  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean, while  Jebel  Osha  is  about  three  thousand  foui- 
hundred  feet  above  it.  In  five  hours,  we  had  come  up  from 
a  tropical  climate,  with  its  rank,  steaming  vegetation,  to  a 
region  of  pines  and  almost  of  winter.  We  left  fields  of 
wheat  that  were  rich  and  luxuriant,  and  nearly  headed  out, 
while  here  the  wheat  is  little  more  than  above  the  ground. 
The  trees  have  changed.  The  birds,  the  vegetation,  and 
the  climate  are  aU  different  from  what  we  left  in  the 
vaUey  below.  Es  Salt  is  several  hundred  feet  lower  than 
Jebel  Osha,  but  it  is  cool  here,  and  I  have  on  my  overcoat 
in  addition  to  the  clothes  I  have  worn  during  the  day.  I 
am  very  thankful  that  thus  far  we  have  met  with  no 
accident  or  trouble  of  any  kind;  nor  have  we  had  any 
sickness.  To-day  completes  three  hundred  and  sixty-two 
hours  that  I  have  already  spent  in  the  saddle.  The 
Jordan  valley,  from  the  Sea  of  Gralilee  as  far  south  as  the 
Zerka,  we  have  found  to  be  full  of  Ai-abs.  Their  numerous 
flocks,  herds,  and  tents  give  the  plain  a  very  animated 
appearance.  These  people  have  come  from  the  plains  of 
Moab  and  the  Hauran,  and  their  tents,  cattle,  and 
camels  sometimes  cover  the  fields  for  miles.  They  Avill 
soon,  however,  begin  to  move  up  into  the  mountains, 
ascending  a  short  distance  at  a  time,  until  they  reach  the 
plains  again  in  the  early  summer.  When  I  entered  the 
valley,  below  the  Lake  of  Tiberias,  I  made  a  desperate  effort 
to  count  the  tents,  but  soon  gave  it  up  as  impossible,  for 


THE  JORDAN   VALLEY.  195 

there  are  many  thousands  of  them.  The  gi'eat  droves  of 
camels  about  the  Zerka,  lining  the  river  bank  and  fill- 
ing the  valley,  my  companion  did  not  like.  He  said  they 
frightened  all  the  quails.  But  the  tribes  through  which  we 
have  passed,  and  with  which  we  have  had  intercourse,  have 
treated  us  in  the  most  friendly  manner,  and  some  of  them 
have  furnished  us  with  milk  and  chickens,  and  whatever 
else  they  had  to  dispose  of  which  we  desired.  They  served 
us  also  as  guides,  and  gave  us  information  about  the  country 
so  far  as  they  could.  But  it  was  a  matter  of  constant  curi- 
osity to  them  to  know  what  we  were  about,  and  why  we 
wished  to  learn  the  names  of  aU  these  places,  and  what 
object  we  had  in  visiting  the  ruins,  and  collecting  so 
many  flowers  and  animals,  and  taking  note,  indeed,  of 
everything  that  was  above  ground.  When  a  Franghi  wishes 
to  buy  a  horse  of  them,  they  can  appreciate  his  motives 
and  understand  his  business,  and  they  consider  that  he 
is  doing  something  commendable ;  but  the  work  we  are 
engaged  in  is  so  entirely  outside  of  their  life  that  it  is  to 
them  absolute  folly. 

To-night,  before  sunset,  I  went  up  to  the  hill  above  the 
town  to  get  a  view  of  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  mountains  of 
Moab  to  the  south.  The  air  was  clear  and  I  had  a  good 
view  of  the  sea  from  the  northern  to  the  very  southern  end. 
The  tongue,  or  El  Lisan,  was  very  distinct,  and  the  little 
island  at  the  extreme  north  end  was  visible,  appearing 
about  as  large  as  a  small  boat.  As  the  sun  was  setting  I 
watched  the  shadows  of  the  western  hills  as  they  crept 
over  its  surface  and  at  last  darkened  it.  How  much  I 
wished  that  such  a  picture  as  I  saw  to-night  could  be 
realized  and  retained  on  canvas. 

Our  camp  is  in  a  much  better  location  than  that  of  last 
year,  when  we  were  here  in  the  month  of  October.  That 
was  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  town.     We  are  now  in  a 


196  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

valley  a  little  farther  away,  where  we  escape  the  noise 
of  the  dogs.  I  imagine  that  no  town  in  Syria  is  so 
favored  as  to  dogs  as  Es  Salt.  From  our  former  camp 
we  heard  during  the  night  a  constant  howl.  It  was  almost 
impossible  to  sleep.  Now  the  noise  is  as  incessant  as  ever, 
but  fortunately  it  does  not  reach  us.  When  they  are 
very  boisterous,  however,  we  get  the  echo,  which  is  quite 
sufficient.  The  barks  and  growls  strike  an  angle  in  the 
valley  some  distance  above  our  camp,  and  the  effect  is 
peculiar  and  almost  comical,  a  sort  of  burlesque  of  the  real 
thing  such  as  I  have  never  before  observed. 

The  valleys  and  hill-sides  about  this  place  in  October 
were  covered  with  vines,  but  now  they  are  bare  and  one 
can  see  the  numerous  terraces  and  rocks,  which  in  sum- 
mer are  concealed.  Men  are  now  at  work  ploughing  or 
digging  over  the  ground  in  the  vineyards,  and  making 
preparations  for  the  coming  season.  As  I  rode  over  the 
fields  between  here  and  Jebel  Osha,  the  marvellous  grapes, 
which  I  enjoyed  so  much  last  year,  were  the  only  thing 
I  thought  of.  They  were  fine  indeed  and  their  memory  is 
precious.   . 


Es  Salt,  Monday,  March  20,  1876, 

Yesterday  the  thermometer  was  53°  at  7.30  A.  M., 
and  570  at  6  P.  M.  To-day  it  was  59°  at  7.15  A.  M.,  70° 
at  12  M.,  and  56°  at  6  P.  M.  The  sun  at  mid-day  is  warm, 
but  the  nights  are  cool,  and  the  atmosphere  is  enjoyable 
and  invigorating  compared  with  that  of  the  Jordan  valley 
which  we  have  just  left. 

"We  attended  church,  yesterday,  in  the  chapel  of  the 
English  mission  here,  where  Mr.  Simon,  a  native,  preached. 
The  congregation  numbered  about  fifty  persons,  which  is 


THE  JOBDAN    VALLEY.  197 

small,  for  just  at  present  many  of  the  inhabitants  are 
absent,  being  engaged  at  theii*  work  in  the  fields  at  too 
great  a  distance  to  come  home  for  the  Sabbath.  The 
clergyman  seemed  an  earnest  man,  and  his  hearers  were 
very  attentive  for  an  audience  in  Syria,  where  a  speaker 
must  expect  considerable  interruption  by  persons  coming 
and  going,  and  moving  about.  The  people  sat  on  mats 
spread  on  the  floor,  while  we  had  low  stools  furnished  us, 
it  being  generally  understood  that  Europeans  are  not  in 
the  habit  of  sitting  on  the  gro^^nd.  While  we  were 
listening  to  the  sermon  and  worshipping  around  the  altar, 
the  sparrows  among  the  beams  and  rafters  overhead  were 
busy  making  their  nests,  chattering  and  scolding  mean- 
time after  their  noisy  fashion.  Mr.  Simon  and  two  of 
his  friends  made  us  a  long  call  in  the  afternoon,  and  I 
judge  that  a  strong  foothold  has  been  gained  by  mission- 
ary effort  in  this  important  centre  of  Arab  life. 

We  have  spent  a  large  part  of  the  day  in  making  arrange- 
ments with  our  Arabs,  whom  we  had  sent  for,  and  who 
arrived  about  daylight  or  before  we  were  up.  Four  men 
will  go  with  us,  and  the  price  we  pay  them  is  reasonable. 
It  is  not  in  the  Arab  nature  to  come  to  an  agreement 
quickly,  and  this  is  the  reason  why  so  much  time  was 
consumed  in  making  our  bargain,  and  not  because  they 
objected  to  serve  us,  or  were  exorbitant  in  their  demands. 
Their  minds  are  bright  and  active,  they  are  rapid  in  their 
movements  when  they  choose  to  be,  but  when  it  comes  to 
making  a  trade,  however  small,  or  transacting  any  business, 
however  important,  they  become  apparently  indifferent, 
never  show  the  least  sign  of  haste,  and  are  absolutely 
wasteful  in  the  amount  of  time  they  devote  to  the  most 
trifling  affair.  The  remainder  of  the  day  has  been  occupied 
with  caring  for  our  flowers  and  birds,  and  in  writing  jour- 
nals and  letters. 


198  EAST   OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

Camp  at  Damieh  Ford,    Thiirsday,  March  23,  1876. 

We  came  down  here  early  Tuesday  morning,  Mareli  21, 
making  the  distance  in  four  hours  and  forty  minutes. 
The  thermometer  was  52°  at  6  A.  M.,  when  we  left  Es 
Salt;  and  on  the  bank  of  the  Jordan,  in  the  coolest  place 
I  could  find,  it  was  87°  at  noon,  and  69°  at  6.30  P.  M. 
The  change  from  the  bracing  atmosphere  of  the  hills  is 
depressing.  As  my  duties  have  kept  me  in  and  about  the 
camp  nearly  all  the  time,  I  have  noted  the  thermometer  at 
different  hours,  as  follows :  6  A.  M.,  65° ;  7  A.  M.,  69° ; 
8  A.  M.,  72°;  9  A.  M.,  76°;  10  A.  M.,  81°;  12  M.,  87°; 
1  P.  M.,  89° ;  2  P.  M.,  90O ;  6  P.  M.,  75°.  We  have  not 
suffered  so  much  as  yesterday,  because  the  sky  has  been 
overcast,  while  yesterday  it  was  clear.  It  is  not  safe  to 
do  anything  in  the  field  in  the  middle  of  the  day. 

On  our  way  down  we  stopped  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  to 
examine  a  large  salt  spring  in  the  mouth  of  Wady  Butm. 
This  is  said  to  be  dry  in  summer.  At  present  the  rocks 
about  the  spring  and  along  the  valley  below  it  have  a  white 
incrustation  upon  them,  and  the  water  is  bitter,  leaving 
an  exceedingly  unpleasant  taste  in  the  mouth.  The  plain 
of  the  Upper  Ghor  we  crossed  in  fifty  minutes,  that  is, 
from  the  salt  spring  to  the  edge  of  the  plain,  where  it 
drops  down  to  the  Lower  Ghor.  In  thirty-five  minutes 
more  we  reached  our  present  camping-gi-ound,  near  the 
Jordan.  The  plain  of  the  Lower  Ghor  is  at  this  point  about 
one  mile  Avide.  There  is  here  a  good  ferry,  and  on  the 
opposite  bank  is  a  veritable  "  bethabara," — a  house  belong- 
ing to  the  ford.  It  is  a  khan,  where  travellers  stop  and 
where  coffee  can  be  obtained.  The  men  who  have  charge 
of  the  ford  live  there,  and  they  do  not  stint  themselves  in 
the  number  of  noisy  dogs.  At  times,  when  merchants  or 
travellers  arrive,  the  place  is  quite  animated.     How  large 


THE  JOBBAN   VALLEY.  199 

a  place  need  the  Bethabara  of  the  New  Testament  have 
been  ?  I  hope  it  was  not  like  this  khan.  I  have  no  doubt, 
however,  that  it  was  frequented  by  soldiers  and  travellers, 
merchants  with  their  caravans,  Roman  officers  in  chariots, 
people  mounted  on  mules  or  donkeys,  and  many  poorer 
persons  who  journeyed  on  foot,  so  that  we  must  not  expect 
the  class  of  people  found  there  to  have  been  very  select ; 
but,  on  the  contrary,  miscellaneous  in  the  extreme. 

I  obtained  all  the  angles  possible  at  Tell  Damieh,  and 
from  it  the  grandest  object  visible  in  the  north  was,  of 
course,  Mount  Hermon.  The  view  up  the  Jordan  vaUey 
was  at  least  ten  miles  in  extent,  down  the  valley,  five 
miles  more,  and  up  the  valley  of  the  Zerka,  five  or  six 
miles,  really  making  this  a  very  sightly  point.  Yet  I 
realize  that  we  are  not  ovly  shut  in  by  the  mountain- 
walls  of  the  Jordan  valley,  but  also  in  this  low  plain  by 
the  banks  which  enclose  the  Lower  Ghor.  The  course  of 
the  Zerka  is  from  north-east  to  south-west ;  but  when  it 
reaches  the  plain  of  the  Lower  Ghor  it  bends  to  the  west 
and  enters  the  Jordan  above  Tell  Damieh,  about  one  mile 
north  of  the  ruined  bridge  which  exists  at  this  place. 

This  tell  is  a  curious  object,  rising  about  fifty  feet  above 
the  plain,  is  forty-five  yards  in  diameter,  perfectly  round, 
and  exactly  in  the  shape  of  an  inverted  bowl  with  very 
steep  sides.  Like  some  of  those  north  of  the  Zerka,  it  is 
covered  with  fragments  of  pottery  and  a  few  loose  stones. 
On  the  west  side,  projecting  into  the  plain,  is  a  platform 
of  earth  about  twenty  feet  high,  and  as  wide  as  the  tell 
itself.  The  evidence  that  this  mound  is  artificial  is  not  so 
strong  as  it  is  in  the  case  of  some  of  those  on  the  Upper 
Jordan  plain  just  referred  to,  still  I  should  like  to  cut 
into  it  to  ascertain  its  true  character.  The  suggestion 
has  been  made  and  advocated,  I  believe,  that  Damieh 
represents  Adam  of  the  Book  of  Joshua  (iii.,  16),  a  place 


200  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

mentioned  in  connection  with  the  crossing  of  the  river  by 
the  Israelites. 

To-day  the  pasha  of  Nablus  arrived,  and  with  him  thirty 
or  more  mounted  soldiers,  on  their  way  to  Es  Salt.  They 
let  their  horses  feed  on  the  plain,  threw  themselves  down 
in  the  shade  on  the  bank  of  the  river  about  our  camp  and 
rested  till  towards  sunset,  when  they  went  on  again.  The 
taxes  were  to  be  collected  from  those  tribes  of  the  Belka 
over  which  the  Turks  have  control ;  and  when  this  busi- 
ness is  undertaken  the  ofl&cials  take  with  them,  as  in  this 
case,  the  means  of  enforcing  comphance  with  their  requests. 
These  armed  soldiers  furnish  a  good  example  of  what  a 
Turk  means  by  "  legal  measures."  I  talked  with  a  number 
of  these  men,  and  found  them  very  pleasant  and  communi- 
cative. They  showed  me  their  needle-guns  and  examined 
closely  my  Winchester  rifle.  They  admired  and  praised 
the  weapon,  and  I  have  no  doubt  that  they  coveted  it  ,•  yet 
one  young  man  remarked  that  his  gun  would  do  very  well 
for  a  soldier. 

Winged  insects  abound  in  this  lower  vaUey.  They 
swarm  by  day  and  in  the  evening  as  well,  when  we  have 
a  light.  They  come  by  millions,  until  the  air  is  so  filled 
with  them  that  we  can  scarcely  see,  and  change  our  posi- 
tion, by  which  we  obtain,  however,  only  a  few  moments' 
respite.  I  suppose  they  like  that  part  of  our  work  which 
pertains  to  the  skinning  and  preparing  of  birds. 

Yesterday  I  crossed  the  river  and  made  an  excursion  to 
Kurn  Sartabeh.  I  wished  to  examine  this  strange,  needle- 
Hke  peak  and  the  ruins  upon  its  summit,  and  also  to 
prove  the  angles  I  had  taken  to  it.  It  is  such  a  prom- 
inent and  unmistakable  object  that  it  serves  an  excellent 
purpose  as  a  landmark,  and,  besides,  special  attention  has 
recently  been  given  to  it  by  one  of  the  officers  of  the  Eng- 
lish survey  party.     I  went  mthout  a  servant  and  accom- 


THE  JORDAN   VALLEY.  201 

panied  by  only  one  Ai-ab.  We  crossed  the  fine  plain,  now 
beantif  id  with  wheat  fields,  which  stretches  up  into  Wady 
Fari'a,  along  which  the  road  to  Nablus  winds.  The  wheat 
is  heading  out,  and  a  single  field  through  which  we  waded, 
Arab  fashion,  was  two  miles  broad.  At  the  foot  of  the 
mountains  many  Aral^s  were  encamped,  with  whom  my 
companion  talked  some  tune.  On  the  north  of  Kurn 
Sartabeh  a  wady  runs  to  the  very  top  of  the  mountain, 
while  another  descends  on  the  south  side,  so  that  the  hum 
is  separated  from  the  main  ridge  of  the  mountain  to  the 
west.  The  wady  on  the  north  side  is  very  abrupt  in  its 
ascent,  and  it  was  a  difficidt  task  to  eUmb  to  the  summit. 
At  the  very  top,  a  large,  ancient  wall  connects  the  main 
mountains  with  the  isolated  portion  known  as  Kuim 
Sartabeh.  This  may  have  been  a  conduit ;  but,  if  it  were 
for  defence,  an  attacking  party  must  make  its  way  up 
one  or  both  of  the  wadies  just  referred  to,  and  only  by 
these  difficult  passes,  while  the  garrison  on  the  wall  could 
fight  both  ways.  From  the  Sartabeh  end  of  this  wall  the 
path  ascends  to  a  broad  plateau,  which  is  crossed,  and 
then  leads  down  a  sharp  descent  of  fifty  or  one  hundred 
feet  into  a  valley,  where  the  hum  or  ''  horn  "  begins,  which 
is  in  form  a  perfect  sugar-loaf,  and  rises  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  plateau.  It  would  be  difficult  to  mention  a 
place  in  Palestine  whose  natural  advantages  for  defence 
would  be  superior  to  those  of  Kurn  Sartabeh.  Salchad, 
Banias,  Sliukif,  the  old  castle  of  Tiberias,  and  even  Ganiala 
itself,  which  is  superior  in  this  respect  to  all  the  others, 
cannot  be  compared  with  it. 

The  ruins  are  extensive,  and  many  of  the  stones  are 
bevelled  with  the  full,  rough  face.  It  is  not  late  work,  not 
even  Roman.  -These  appear  to  be  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  castle  of  great  strength.  The  manner  in  which 
this  mass  of  stones,  of  which  the  fortress  was  formerly 
9* 


202  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

composed,  could  have  been  "brought  up  to  this  remote  and 
inaccessible  peak,  is  to  me  a  mystery.  An  Ai'ab,  whom  I 
met  later  in  the  day  assured  me  that  there  was  no  old  road 
leading  to  it  from  the  west.  To  think  of  such  a  place  as 
this  being  attacked  by  soldiers  who  had  to  fight  hand  to 
hand! 

The  view  from  the  summit  more  than  repaid  me  for  all 
the  toil  of  climbing  to  it  under  a  sweltering  sun.  Jebel 
esh  Sheikh  was  covered  with  snow,  and  so  was  the  Lebanon 
range  farther  to  the  west  and  north.  Lake  Merom  and  the 
volcanic  peaks  on  the  plain  to  the  east  of  it  and  south  of 
Hermon  were  distinctly  seen,  hkewise  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  the 
hills  about  Safed,  the  hills  west  of  Tiberias  and  the  slope 
from  their  summit,  which  inclines  towards  Mount  Tabor; 
also  Gamala  and  Gadara,  all  the  range  of  Jebel  'Ajlun 
or  hills  of  Gilead,  Kulat  er  Rubad,  Jebel  Meisera  and  Jebel 
Osha,  the  mountains  of  Moab,  and  the  Dead  Sea.  But  the 
mere  naming  of  different  points  that  can  be  seen  gives  no 
adequate  idea  of  the  extent  and  magnificence  of  the  prospect 
which  one  enjoys  from  the  top  of  this  strange  landmark. 
Hills  to  the  west  obstruct  the  view  in  that  direction,  and  to 
the  east  nothing  can  be  seen  beyond  the  highest  part  of 
the  Moab  and  Gilead  ranges,  but  it  is  the  north  and  south 
sweep  which  makes  the  prospect  a  glorious  one.  No 
language  can  pictui'e  correctly  the  Jordan  valley,  the 
winding  stream,  the  jungles  on  its  banks,  the  strange  Ghor 
with  its  white,  ragged  sides,  the  vast  plain  of  the  valley, 
through  and  in  the  middle  of  which  the  Lower  Ghor  is 
sunk,  the  dense  green  oases  here  and  there  formed  by  some 
mountain  stream,  and  the  still,  lifeless  sea,  as  bright  and 
motionless  as  molten  lead,  lying  far  to  the  south,  ending 
the  great  valley  and  touching  the  mountains  on  either  side  ! 
This  is  an  outline  merely,  but  I  cannot  summon  to  my  aid 
words  which  will  describe  it  more  accuratelv.      The  Jordan 


THE  JORDAN   VALLEY.  203 

valley  or  Ghor,  in  front  of  Sartabeli,  is  about  eight  miles 
wide,  and  looks  like  a  vast  plain.  The  Lower  Ghor  is  the 
ragged  channel  cut  down  along  the  middle  of  the  larger 
one.  This  distinction  of  the  upper  and  lower  Ghor  is  by 
no  means  so  strikingly  defined  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Zerka  as  it  is  below  that  point,  and  all  the  way  thence  to 
the  Dead  Sea. 

After  completing  my  special  task,  I  recrossed  the  plateau 
and  went  with  my  Ai'ab  down  the  south  side  to  Wady 
Fusail,  which  is  a  remnant  of  the  word  Phasaelis,  a  name 
given  to  the  to-^vn  which  Herod  the  Great  built  here,  and 
presented  to  his  sister  Salome.  At  that  time  the  valley  was 
celebrated  for  its  palms.  The  sun  was  oppressively  hot, 
and  in  this  close  valley  there  was  not  a  breath  of  air 
stirring;  I  lay  down  under  the  shade  of  some  trees  by 
an  ancient  water-course  and  rested  for  two  hours  or  more, 
or  until  it  seemed  safe  to  go  about  my  work  again.  The 
stream  in  this  channel  is  living  and  comes  from  a  large 
fountain  above,  towards  the  hills.  It  is  all  used  in  irri- 
gating wheat  fields.  There  are  two  tells,  a  large  and 
a  small  one,  which  mark  the  site  of  the  Herodian  town, 
and  on  each  are  ruins.  The  fellahiu,  who  were  at  work  at 
Fusail,  said  there  were  no  ruins  in  the  valley  above.  So 
far  as  this  water  reaches,  life  and  verdure  are  seen,  but 
beyond  that  the  sun  has  already  begun  to  wither  the  win- 
ter grass  and  to  turn  the  plain  into  a  desert.  At  Kurn 
Sartabeh  we  saw  gazelles  and  one  fox,  and  in  the  valley 
any  number  of  storks.  The  trees  and  bushes  at  Fusail 
were  also  full  of  birds. 

After  I  returned  to  camp  I  took  my  rifle  and  shot-gun, 
and  had  a  long  ramble  down  the  river.  The  more  expe- 
rience I  have  with  the  jungles  on  the  banks  of  the  Jordan, 
the  more  remarkable  they  seem  to  me.  Thistles,  briers, 
canes,  vines,  willows,  tamarisks,  and  many  other  -trees  and 


204  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

shrubs,  grow  so  thick  and  rank  that  it  is  often  impossible 
to  penetrate  to  the  water's  edge.  After  having  once  seen 
these  jungles  one  ceases  to  wonder  why  the  boars  and  other 
wild  animals  which  frequent  such  places  have  never  been 
exterminated.  Here  their  retreat  is  secure.  WMLe  making 
my  way  into  the  jungle  at  a  certain  point,  where  I  succeeded 
in  penetrating,  however,  but  a  short  distance,  I  started  a 
wild  boar  not  ten  feet  from  me,  and  I  can  say  with  truth 
that  he  started  me,  or  at  least  startled  me,  but  as  he  ran  it 
did  not  become  necessary  for  me  to  do  so,  even  if  I  had 
been  able,  which  I  was  not.  He  made  a  tremendous 
crashing  as  he  dashed  through  the  dry  canes  and  bushes, 
but  the  jungle  was  so  thick  that  I  could  not  point  my  rifle 
at  him,  as  I  carried  it  breech  foremost.  In  fact,  it  was 
not  possible  for  me  to  turn  it  around.  Boars,  jackals, 
hyenas,  ichneumons,  otters,  and  other  wild  animals  frequent 
these  jungles,  and  birds  also  are  found  here  in  great 
numbers  and  variety.  We  have  ah^eady  over  one  hundred 
specimens  in  ovir  natural  history  collection,  some  of  which 
are  rare,  while  many  of  them  are  exceedingly  beautiful. 
The  heron  is  a  very  difficult  bird  to  obtain,  and  no  less  so 
are  the  beautiful  francolins.  The  francolin  resembles  in 
shape  the  guinea-hen,  and  is  twice  the  size  of  the  larger 
of  the  two  kinds  of  partridges  found  in  the  country. 
They  have  small  heads,  short  necks  and  legs,  and  the 
colors  are  exquisite.  The  flesh  is  wliite  and  delicious, 
but  inclines  to  be  dry,  at  least  that  is  the  character  of 
the  meat  as  it  comes  to  us  from  the  hands  of  our  cook. 
They  have  a  peculiar  call  of  five  or  six  notes ;  they  hide 
in  the  grass,  and  run  under  it  in  such  a  stealthy  way 
that  it  is  only  by  rare  good  luck  that  one  gets  a  shot 
at  them,  unless  while  on  the  wing.  Among  four-footed 
animals  we  have  made  great  efforts  to  obtain  a  leopard, 
but  these  creatures  are  destined  soon  to  become  extinct  in 


THE  JORDAN   VALLEY.  205 

Syria.  They  are  found  now  only  in  the  ^vrildest  and  most 
inaccessible  gorges,  and  even  there  but  seldom.  Large 
amounts  have  been  offered  for  their  skins,  and  native 
hunters  are  constantly  on  the  look-out  for  them.  Twenty 
years  ago  one  could  obtain  a  reasonable  number  of  leopard- 
skins  without  difficulty,  and  at  a  reasonable  price,  while 
now  it  is  impossible  to  get  even  one,  at  any  price. 

While  coming  from  Kurn  Sartabeh,  this  afternoon,  I  had 
a  good  opportunity  to  observe  carefully  what  I  had  noticed 
before  when  on  that  side  of  the  river,  namely,  the  for- 
mation of  the  mountain  called  Jebel  Osha.  All  the  upper 
portion  is  limestone.  This  crust  is  from  fifteen  hundred  to 
two  thousand  feet  thick,  while  all  below  it  is  sandstone  of 
a  great  variety  of  colors.  But,  from  the  west  side  of  the 
river,  when  the  light  is  good,  while  the  upper  portion  of  the 
mountain  is  of  a  whitish  color,  all  the  lower  portion  is  red, 
pink,  or  violet.  The  effect  is  striking.  The  Zerka,  before  it 
reaches  the  Jordan  valley,  has  cut  its  way  through  a  bed  of 
sandstone,  some  of  which  is  metal-bearing.  I  collected 
specimens  of  thirty  or  forty  different  colors,  or  shades  of 
color,  from  the  stones  about  our  camp,  when  we  were 
farther  up  on  this  stream  than  now. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 
Lower  Jordan  Valley. —  The  Shittim  Plain. 

Tell  Nimrin.  Sodom  apple-tree.  Great  heat.  Apparent  and  real 
distances.  Camp  opposite  the  Jericho  ford.  Visit  to  Jerusalem. 
Telegraph  for  Eev.  Dr.  Thomson.  Meeting  acquaintances  in  Jeru- 
salem. Jerusalem  products  at  the  Centennial  Exhibition.  Absurd 
notions  of  Palestine.  Glimpses  of  my  tent-life.  Cloth  and  brick 
houses  compared.  Tents  blown  down.  Our  tent  described.  Its 
furniture.  Vestiges  of  civilization.  Our  food.  Arabs  do  not  like 
"  gamey  "  fowls  or  birds.  Our  Arabs  and  their  weapons.  Our  dogs. 
Lack  of  sleep  a  great  privation.  Noisy  camp.  Donkeys  irrepress- 
ible, yet  much-abused  animals.  Breaking  camp.  Order  of  march. 
Muleteers  adjusting  loads  with  stones.  Sagacity  of  horses  in 
finding  the  best  path.  My  personal  outfit.  Loaded  saddle-bags. 
Taking  notes  on  horseback.  Poor  horsemen.  The  timid  English 
traveller.      The   man  who   fell   off.      Sewing,  the   greatest   trial   of 

j  camp-life.  New  ferry-boat.  Pilgrims.  Pomegranates  in  bloom  at 
Jericho.     Remains   of  the   ancient   city. 


Camp  at  Wady   NimrIn,   Friday,    March   24,  187G. 

"TXTE  are  about  twenty  minutes  west  of  TeU  Nimrin, 
V  V  which  is  a  large  mound,  and  about  it  are  a  good 
many  ruins.  Below  us,  the  wady  itself  is  dry  now,  the 
entire  amount  of  water  of  the  large  stream  being  diverted 
for  irrigating  wheat  fields.  There  are  about  us  many 
large  sidr  bushes  and  trees,  and  the  Sodom  apple-tree  is 
also  abundant.     This  shrub,  which  grows  fifteen  or  twenty 


LOWER  JOBDAN   VALLEY.  207 

feet  high,  is  yellow,  with  cork-like  bai'k  and  milkweed 
leaves,  aud,  when  cut,  milk  exudes  from  the  pores.  The 
wood  is  brittle,  and  most  of  the  trees  have  been  rubbed 
against  and  broken,  so  that  it  is  rare  to  find  a  good  speci- 
men showing  what  the  natural  size  or  growth  might  be. 
Some  of  the  stems  are  four  to  six  inches  in  diameter. 
When  cut,  it  is  as  light  as  punk.  It  is  a  curious  plant, 
and  the  Ai-abs  call  it  ^osUir  or  ■ashir.  What  is  pointed 
out  to  travellers  in  the  vicinity  of  Jericho  as  the  Sodom 
apple-tree  is  another  shrub  entii-ely. 

The  day  has  been  exceedingly  hot,  and  we  were  thank- 
ful for  the  shade  of  a  sidr-tree,  under  which  we  sat  on  the 
bank  of  a  canal  and  took  our  lunch.  These  savage  trees 
can  shelter  us  from  the  sun  as  well  as  tear  our  clothes 
and  flesh. 

One  hoiir  north  of  our  camp  are  some  curious  pits  in 
the  plain,  which  I  must  examine. 

In  taking  angles  from  Tell  Nimrin,  I  found  that  to  Kurn 
Sartabeh  was  330°.  The  angle  from  Kurn  Sartabeh  to  Tell 
Nimrin  was  150°,  hence  these  prove  each  other  exactly. 
This  is  noticeable,  because,  when  I  was  on  Kurn  Sartabeh, 
I  was  not  absolutely  certain  of  Tell  Nimrin,  and  asked  my 
guide  a  good  many  questions;  after  I  had  made  up  my 
own  mind,  I  had  him  point  the  compass  himseK.  It  is 
now  proved  that  his  testimony  and  my  judgment  were  cor- 
rect. From  our  tents,  the  Dead  Sea  looks  as  if  it  were 
about  one  lioiu'  distant,  but  it  is  reaUy  foiu"  hours,  and  it  is 
three  hours  from  here  to  Jericho. 

Among  other  facts,  I  collected  of  our  Arabs  the  names  of 
all  the  wadies  between  the  Zerka  and  Nimrin.  No  living 
streams  flow  down  upon  this  portion  of  the  valley,  yet  the 
watercourses  bear  e\idence  of  having  been  at  times  the 
track  of  raging  torrents,  and,  as  along  some  of  them  there 
are  trees,  there  must  be  water  not  far  below  the  surface. 


208  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Near  this  tell  is  an  encampment  of  Siiklifir  Araljs,  who 
have  a  good  many  camels.  They  are  friendly,  and  fui'- 
nish  us  with  milk  and  barley.  We  have  at  least  three 
weeks'  work  to  do  yet  in  \h^  lower  end  of  this  valley,  and, 
at  the  same  time,  the  heat  is  making  it  every  day  more  and 
more  dangerous  to  carry  on  operations  here. 

Camp  opposite  Jericho  Ford,  Thursday,  April   5,    1876. 

We  moved  our  camp  from  the  Shittim  j)lain  to  this  place 
for  a  day  or  two,  while  my  companion  went  to  Jerusalem 
to  carry  letters  and  to  come  down  with  Dr.  Thomson.  Last 
week  I  went  to  Jerusalem  myself  with  letters,  and  also  got 
our  mail,  which  had  been  accumulating  for  some  time.  No 
one  who  has  not  experienced  the  same  can  realize  the  satis- 
faction there  is  in  receiving  letters  from  friends  after  days 
and  weeks  of  exile  from  civilization.  Besides  getting 
letters  and  supplies,  one  object  I  had  in  visiting  Jerusalem 
was  to  telegraph  to  Rev.  William  M.  Thomson,  D.  D.,  of 
Beirut,  to  see  if  he  would  join  us  for  a  short  trip  in  Moab, 
as  he  had  expressed  a  desire  to  visit  that  region.  I  received 
a  favorable  reply  at  once,  and,  on  Saturday,  April  1,  rode 
out  with  my  Arab  sheikh  one  hour  or  more  from  Jerusalem 
and  met  the  Doctor  and  his  son  Henry,  who  accompanied 
him.  As  the  Mediterranean  Hotel  was  full,  we  found 
quarters  together  at  Mr.  A.  Hornstein's  hotel,  in  Arme- 
nian street,  a  very  comfortable,  quiet  house,  where  we 
were  cared  for  in  excellent  style.  As  Dr.  Thomson  was 
not  very  well,  I  left  him  and  returned  to  camp  and  my 
work  in  the  valley,  and  sent  Van  Dyck  to  Jerusalem  to 
come  down  with  our  friends  as  soon  as  it  should  be  pru- 
dent for  them  to  do  so. 

I  met  several  acquaintances  from  America  while  in 
Jerusalem,  some  travelling  alone,  but  the  most  of  them 


LOWER  JOBDAN   VALLEY.  209 

belonging  to  one  of  Cook's  parties.  The  city  and  the  high- 
ways leading  to  it  always  present  a  lively  scene  when 
one  of  Cook's  great  parties  arrives  or  departs,  with  sun 
umbrellas,  flowdng  kefiyehs,  horses,  mules,  tents,  baggage, 
bundles  without  number,  dragoman,  muleteers,  guides, 
cooks,  servants,  and  all  the  rest.  The  tourist  season  did 
not  commence  as  early  as  usual  this  year,  I  understand, 
owing  to  the  fact  that  the  quarantine  was  not  removed 
until  the  middle  of  January,  and  hotel-keepers,  dragomans, 
and  others,  whose  living  is  derived  to  a  great  extent  from 
travellers,  have  suffered  in  consequence.  But  the  business 
connected  with  tourists  is  not  so  brisk  as  it  has  been  for 
some  few  years  past,  for  the  reason  that  the  great  Centennial 
Exhibition  is  attracting  the  attention  of  every  nation,  and 
very  many  people,  who  otherwise  would  have  visited  the 
Holy  Land,  are  turning  their  faces  to  the  far  "West,  whUe 
Americans,  on  their  part,  are  staying  at  home.  Jerusalem 
of  to-day  is  bound  to  be  represented  there,  and  thousands  of 
articles  made  of  olive-wood  are  already  on  their  way  thither. 
I  know  a  family,  consisting  of  a  widow  and  two  daugh- 
ters, who  have  been  at  work  for  months  preparing  upon 
cards  dried  wild-flowers,  gathered  from  sacred  places, 
which  are  within  a  few  days  to  be  forwarded,  in  the  care 
of  a  native  Syi'ian,  to  the  great  Exhibition.  While  Jeru- 
salem sends  its  olive-wood  and  Palestine  its  wUd  flowers, 
the  Lebanon  Mountains  and  Damascus  are  sending  their 
articles  of  sUk.  These  things  may  appear  insignificant  by 
the  side  of  machinery,  and  paintings,  and  the  multitude  of 
objects  which  the  science  and  art  of  other  nations  wiU 
produce ;  but  when  Americans  see  these  humble  objects, 
let  them  reflect  a  moment  upon  the  condition  of  poor, 
afflicted  Syria.  Its  inhabitants  suffer  constantly  fi'om 
the  exactions  and  oppressions  of  a  wretched  government. 
Its  whole  eastern  border  is  liable  to  be  harassed  at  any 


210  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

time  by  the  Bedawin  hordes  from  the  desert.  Religious 
fanaticism  causes  hatred  and  bitterness  between  the  dif- 
ferent sects,  and  puts  hostility  between  village  and  village, 
and  between  section  and  section.  Earthquakes  not  infre- 
quently shake  into  ruins  its  cities  and  towns.  Its  poor 
people  have  just  passed  through  the  terrible  scourge  of 
cholera ;  and  now,  as  if  one  disaster  must  necessarily  fol- 
low another,  the  land  is  parched,  and  the  crops  are  in 
many  places  dying  for  want  of  water.  Streams,  springs, 
and  cisterns  are  all  low,  and  diu'ing  the  winter  there  has 
been  but  little  rain,  and  the  calamity  which  appears  most 
threatening  at  present  is  a  water  famine.  Water  is  the  life 
of  this  land,  and,  taking  one  season  with  another,  enough 
rain  falls  during  the  winter  months,  if  it  were  properly 
preserved,  to  make  all  these  valleys  and  hill- sides  green 
with  forests  and  vegetation,  and  wealthy  with  harvests.  It 
is  evident  that  the  inhabitants  in  former  times  took  great 
pains  to  make  the  water  supply  abundant,  and  to  provide 
against  the  worst  contingencies  that  might  arise.  The 
remains  of  aqueducts  are  found  in  various  sections  where 
the  region  is  now  a  desert ;  and  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able things  connected  with  many  of  the  ruined  cities  and 
towns  is  the  great  number  of  ancient  reservou's  and  cis- 
terns with  which  they  were  provided. 

Among  the  gentlemen  whom  I  met  in  Jerusalem  was  Mr. 
Butterworth,  from  Michigan — an  elderly  and  very  intelli- 
gent man.  His  profession  during  aU  the  early  part  of  his 
life  was  that  of  a  mechanical  engineer,  and  he  has  done 
much  also  towards  developing  the  mineral  resources  of  his 
own  State.  He  was  deeply  interested  in  my  work,  and 
especially  in  the  hints  I  gave  him  respecting  the  mines 
of  Palestine.  His  interest  in  this  country  is  in  striking 
contrast  to  that  of  many  travellers,  who  say :  "  This  is  a 
God-forsaken  region,  and  I  want  to  get  out  of  it  as  soon 


LOWER  JORDAN   VALLEY.  211 

as  possible  !  "  But  what  earthly  reason  can  persons  of  this 
class  give  for  visiting  Palestine  at  all  ?  Why  do  they  not 
stay  away?  K  they  had  remained  at  home  they  might 
have  retained  the  reputation  of  having  some  sagacity  ;  but 
their  coming  here,  and  especially  the  remark  just  quoted, 
which  I  have  heard  from  more  than  one  person,  shows  in 
them  a  deplorable  lack  of  it. 

During  the  intervals  of  camp  and  field  duty  I  have  been 
going  over  my  notes  and  writing  up  my  journal :  and  since 
this  mode  of  existence  is  so  unlike  anything  in  civilized 
lands,  it  is  possible  that  some  of  these  "  glimpses  of  tent- 
life"  will  have  an  interest  for  persons  far  away  from 
Syria,  who  will  never  experience  the  pleasures  or  undergo 
the  hardships  that  have  fallen  to  my  lot  in  the  country 
beyond  the  Jordan. 

Tent-life  is  remarkable  for  its  simplicity.  The  sense  of 
being  confined  by  walls  of  brick  or  stone  is  entirely  want- 
ing. One  enjoys  the  freedom  of  the  sky  and  fields,  and  if 
fresh  air  is  a  luxury,  or  merely  a  necessity,  one  has  an 
abundance  of  that.  A  brick  house  has  an  advantage  over 
a  tent  from  the  fact  that  it  will  not  blow  down.  When 
the  wind  is  high,  those  who  dwell  in  tents  sometimes  have 
the  experience  of  having  their  house  fall  about  their  ears. 
It  is  unpleasant  to  be  aroused  suddenly  from  sleep,  and 
to  become  aware  that  your  house,  for  anything  you  can  see 
to  the  contrary  in  the  darkness  and  storm,  has  left  for 
parts  unknown.  Then  for  a  little  while  there  are  lively 
times:  you  scramble  for  your  clothes,  the  bedding  is 
hustled  together,  and  a  dash  made  for  the  nearest  shelter, 
provided  there  is  a  ruin,  a  goat-pen,  or  a  cave  at  hand  ; 
but  if  there  is  not,  you  have  to  "  stand  the  storm  "  untU  the 
tent  is  set  up  again,  supposing  that  is  possible.  Probably 
during  the  meantime  everjiihing  has  become  wet,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  night  is  passed  in  the  most  uncomfortable 


212  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN, 

manner.  If,  however,  sufficient  precautions  are  taken 
beforehand,  such  scenes  will  seldom  occur.  The  body  part 
of  our  tent  is  round,  with  a  single  door  which  is  fastened  at 
the  top  and  let  down  like  a  curtain.  This  part  of  the  tent, 
which  is  called  its  wall,  is  nearly  as  high  as  my  head,  and  is 
fastened  by  pins  aU  around  the  bottom.  The  roof  of  the 
tent  is  in  one  piece,  fastened  to  the  top  of  the  "waU"  just 
described,  and  supported  in  the  centre  by  a  stout  pole. 
Round  the  edge  where  the  roof  joins  the  wall,  ropes  are 
fastened,  which  go  out  in  every  direction,  and  are  attached 
to  pins  which  are  driven  firmly  into  the  ground.  The  pole 
which  stands  iii  the  centre  extends  up  through  the  roof 
which  it  supports,  and  from  its  top  foiu*  long  ropes  go  off 
in  as  many  directions  above  and  beyond  those  already 
described,  and  are  fastened  to  pins  in  the  same  manner. 
Besides  these  two  sets  of  ropes,  extra  ones  are,  whenever 
a  storm  is  expected,  thrown  over  the  tent  and  fastened 
firmly  to  pins  driven  into  the  ground.  Opposite  the  door 
the  wall  of  the  tent  is  constructed  so  that  it  can  be  thrown 
open,  and  thus  the  air  allowed  to  blow  through  if  the 
weather  is  warm. 

Now  that  we  have  our  tent  deserilied  and  fastened  so  that 
it  is  hardly  possible  for  it  to  blow  down,  let  us  go  inside. 
We  have  rugs  or  pieces  of  carpeting  spread  down,  in  order 
to  cover  the  grass,  thistles,  scorpions,  and  any  other  incon- 
venient things  that  may  be  on  the  ground.  These  articles 
border  on  luxury  and  could  be  dispensed  with ;  but  they 
are  certainly  a  comfort  when  we  are  di^essing.  We  sleep 
on  bedsteads  made  of  iron,  which  fold  up  into  a  very 
small  compass  convenient  for  transportation.  Oui*  tent  is 
large  enough  to  accommodate  four  such  bedsteads  placed  in 
a  circular  form  round  the  wall  of  the  tent ;  but  we  have  only 
two.  In  the  centre,  by  the  tent  pole,  are  two  tables,  one 
for  writing  and  one  for  eating.     On  the  wall  of  the  tent 


LOWEB  JORDAN   VALLEY.  213 

by  our  beds  are  i^ockets,  where  we  keep  our  towels,  combs, 
brushes,  lookiug-glass,  aud  other  small  articles,  which  in 
camp-life  may  be  called  vestiges  of  civilization.  Our  chairs 
are  camp-stools  without  arms  or  backs,  and  it  frequently 
happens  that  before  the  journey  is  over  they  have  also 
neither  bottoms  nor  legs.  The  extra  space  in  our  tent  is 
generally  occupied  with  boxes,  carpet-bags,  old  boots,  canes, 
guns,  pistols,  field- glass  and  compass,  press  for  flowers, 
water-bottle,  umbrellas,  overcoats,  and  water-proofs,  and 
sometimes  I  could  truly  say,  "with  numerous  other  arti- 
cles." In  addition,  we  have  two  old  sacks  on  which  our 
dogs  sleep,  and  often  the  wall  of  our  tent  is  ornamented 
with  half  a  dozen  or  a  dozen  birds  which  are  hung  up  to 
be  kept  in  shape  until  we  can  skin  them. 

As  to  our  meals,  we  intend  to  have  three  a  day,  Fre- 
qiieutly,  however,  only  one  could  be  called  a  regular  meal, 
and  as  for  "  square  meals,"  we  have  them  when  we  can, 
which  is  seldom.  Our  style  of  life  affects  the  appetite,  and 
we  cease  to  be  fastidious,  and  are  thankful  for  what  we 
can  get. 

For  breakfast  we  have  coffee,  ham,  and  eggs.  Our  mid- 
day meal  is  a  cold  lunch  of  hard-boiled  eggs  and  cold 
chicken,  or  cold  mutton.  Our  dinner,  or  evening  meal,  is 
the  one  on  which  our  cook  spends  his  energy  and  skill.  It 
is  generally  prefaced  by  soup,  which,  however,  is  sometimes 
so  thin  that  it  is  the  most  suggestive  reminder  of  civiliza- 
tion which  we  have.  It  is  not  easy,  nor  is  it  necessary,  for 
me  to  give  all  the  details  of  our  food,  and  the  habits  of  our 
cook.  I  will  say  that  when  we  are  near  any  village  we  can 
get  barley  for  our  animals,  charcoal  for  our  kitchen,  and 
milk,  chickens,  eggs,  and  sometimes  a  kid  or  lamb,  for  our 
table.  But  among  the  Bedawin  it  is  not  always  possible  to 
find  or  to  purchase  these  articles.  Our  men  live  chiefly  on 
bread,  but  do  not  object  to  meat,  chicken,  eggs,  and  the 


214  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

like,  when  they  can  get  them.  Moslems,  however,  will  not 
eat  meat  unless  cooked  the  same  day  that  the  animal  is 
killed,  nor  taste  of  fowl  unless  it  has  had  its  thi-oat  cut 
and  the  name  of  God  pronounced  over  it  dui-ing  that 
operation.  The  word  "gamey"  cannot  be  in  their  lexicons, 
at  least  not  in  the  lexicon  of  practical  life,  or  the  cook- 
book. It  would  seem  a  very  easy  matter  to  obtain  milk  in 
a  land  whose  wealth  consists  in  flocks  and  herds,  but  some- 
.  times  for  days  and  weeks  together  we  are  unable  to  obtain 
it  at  any  price.  When  we  stop  more  than  one  night  in  a 
place  where  there  is  game,  we  are  frequently  able  to  give 
oui'selves  a  rest  from  chicken  and  eggs,  and  enjoy  a  dish  of 
partridge,  quail,  or  pigeons,  and  this  change  we  consider 
ourselves  fully  able  to  appreciate.  As  soon  as  we  reach  our 
camping-place,  we  have  the  cook  start  a  fire  and  prepare 
some  tea,  which  seems  to  refresh  us  more  than  anything 
else  after  a  long  journey  or  a  hard  day's  work. 

An  essential  part  of  our  camp  are  our  animals.  We 
have  eight  mules  and  three  donkeys.  We  pay  for  eight 
and  a  half  animals,  because  we  have  that  number  of  loads. 
The  additional  two  and  a  half  donkeys,  the  muleteers 
brought  for  their  own  convenience.  Besides  these  eleven 
animals,  we  have  our  two  horses.  And  as  we  have  with  us 
never  less  than  three  guides,  either  sheikhs  or  Bedawin  pro- 
tectors of  some  sort,  we  make  a  show  of  sixteen  animals 
and  ten  men.  We  have  one  Winchester  rifle  and  two 
double-barrelled  shot-guns,  besides  one  revolver.  Our  ser- 
vants and  muleteers  have  another  rifle  and  another  shot- 
gun, making  in  all  five  gims  besides  the  pistol.  The 
Bedawin  are  armed  with  long  spears — at  least  one  of  them 
is,  if  he  is  a  sheikh,  or  represents  the  authority  of  any  par- 
ticular tribe  through  which  we  wish  to  pass.  Sometimes 
they  carry  a  long  gun  and  one,  two,  or  three  pistols, 
according  to  their  fancy,  and  the  number  of  such  weapons 


LOWEB  JORDAN    VALLEY.  215 

at  their  command.  Now  and  then  one  will  carry  a  clumsy 
sword.  With  onr  weapons  and  animals,  in  case  of  an 
attack,  we  could  shoot  or  knock  down  a  few  men,  and  run 
away  from  a  great  many.  But  I  find  that  the  Bedawin  are 
not  so  anxious  to  be  killed  as  they  have  been  represented  to 
be.  In  fact,  take  all  the  world,  including  the  wild  Arabs, 
and  those  men  are  very  rare  who  will  stand  up  and  say : 
"Here  I  am,  shoot  me!''  Our  two  dogs.  Jack  and  Shag, 
are  fine  pets,  and  chase  birds  and  everything  else  that  flies, 
walks,  or  runs,  until  they  can  hardly  stand,  and  some- 
times sink  down  on  the  hot  plain  completely  exhausted. 

The  one  great  objection  to  our  camp-life  is  that,  so 
long  as  we  are  di'iven  with  work,  we  do  not  get  sleep 
enough.  Eight  hours  ought  to  suffice,  if  theories  are  worth 
anything ;  but  even  then  we  wake  in  the  morning  without 
being  rested.  Probably  our  interest  in  our  work  is  so  great 
that  we  constantly  go  a  little  beyond  our  strength,  and  the 
usual  amount  of  sleep  is  not  enough.  Besides,  it  is  seldom 
that  we  have  eight  hours.  The  noise  begins  early  and 
continues  till  late  at  night.  Our  dogs  are  terribly  afraid 
that  something  evil  will  happen  to  us,  or  rather  to 
themselves,  and,  in  spite  of  our  admonitions,  bark  at 
the  most  unseasonable  hours.  The  donkeys  that  I  have 
mentioned  are  certainly  the  noisiest  of  their  kind  that  I 
have  ever  seen.  They  bray  separately,  and  they  bray 
together,  with  all  their  might,  making  the  general  effect 
more  hideous.  They  drawl  out  their  speech,  tune,  or 
complaint,  or  whatever  it  is,  and  grunt,  and  pump,  and 
strain,  until  their  strength  fails,  and  the  bray,  apparently 
unfinished,  settles  back  with  a  sort  of  gasp  or  gulp  into 
their  throats ;  but  they  catch  breath  only  to  begin  again, 
and  repeat  "  the  same  psalm,  the  same  tune,  and  the  same 
metre."  At  every  pause  or  lull,  one  involuntarily  hopes 
that  the  next  time  there  will  be  at  least  a  slight  variation. 


216  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Why  cannot  they  do  us  the  favor  to  forget  sometimes, 
and  give  us  something  else  f  But  they  know  their  speech 
too  well  to  forget  it,  and  give  us  the  same  thiug  over 
and  over  again.  Besides,  they  never  hreak  down,  and 
never  stop  until  they  are  done.  No  fright,  no  surprise,  no 
blows,  no  stones  hurled  with  a  vengeance  that  means, 
"  Stop  that  noise,  or  I  '11  kill  you ! "  wiU  cause  them  to 
break  oif  in  the  middle,  or  omit  any  portion  of  their  speech. 
They  have  just  so  much  to  say,  and  they  go  through  with 
it,  in  spite  of  opposition  or  fate.  The  leader  of  the  duet, 
or  sometimes  the  trio,  has  already  lost  his  right  eye,  in 
consequence  of  his  insisting  upon  finishing  his  speech  when 
his  audience — i.  e.,  the  men  of  the  camp  —  did  not  wish  to 
hear  him.  I  presume  he  glories  in  that  wound,  and  would 
have  it  regarded  as  an  index  of  his  opinion  of  the  impor- 
tance of  what  he  has  to  say.  But,  after  all,  it  may  be  that 
the  po.or  donkey  means  well.  We  may  have  been  too  severe 
upon  him,  but  we  are  certain  that  he  and  his  companions 
have  been  pretty  severe  upon  us.  If  they  need  it,  they 
certainly  do  not  take  eight  hours'  sleep,  and  have  often 
prevented  our  taking  it.  I  have  a  suspicion  that  donkeys 
enjoy  repeating  this  little  speech  of  theirs.  I  hope  they 
do.  If  so,  it  is  about  the  only  pleasure  thej^  have  in 
life.  Their  lot  is  a  hard  one.  There  is  no  other  animal  in 
the  East  for  which  I  have  such  a  sincere  pity  as  I  have  for 
these  poor,  starved,  beaten,  century-abused,  but  uncom- 
plaining, donkeys.  No  other  animal  is  so  passive  and 
unresisting  as  this.  Not  even  the  best  men,  although  aided, 
it  may  be,  by  divine  grace,  bear  so  patiently  as  they  all 
sorts  of  violence  and  abuse.  They  take  things  as  they 
come.  They  are  resigned  to  the  inevitable.  They  make  no 
show  or  pretence  in  the  world,  while  they  do  a  vast  amount 
of  the  world's  drudgery,  for  which  they  receive  no  reward. 
Who  was   ever  known  to  pet  or  praise  a  donkey  f     Very 


LOWER  JORDAN   VALLEY.  217 

seldom  is  there  found  a  man  who  seems  even  to  appreciate 
their  services.  If  it  is  true  that  men  came  up  from  the 
lowest  order  of  creation,  then  it  is  certainly  true  that  at 
that  stage  which  the  Hfe  of  the  donkey  represents,  the 
race  of  human  beings  left   behind  many  noble   qualities. 

When  we  camp  for  the  night,  or  for  a  longer  time,  in  one 
place,  and  have  with  us  a  sheikh,  his  long  spear  is  stuck 
upright  in  the  ground  near  our  tent.  Above  our  tent  floats 
the  stars  and  stripes,  but  it  is  really  the  presence  of  the 
spear  that  protects  us.  Our  flag  signifies  very  little  to  the 
Bedawin  of  the  desert. 

It  is  very  interesting  to  watch  the  process  of  breaking 
camp,  packing,  and  loading,  and  to  see  the  procession 
starting  on  its  journey.  The  mule  which  leads  wears  bells, 
which  all  the  others  are  supposed  to  follow.  The  loads  are 
composed  of  the  strangest  possible  medley  of  objects, — 
tents,  bedsteads,  boxes  of  all  sizes,  bundles,  tables,  carpet- 
ing, guns,  water-bottles,  barley-sacks,  lunch  saddle-bags, 
kitchen  utensils,  tin  pails,  field-stove,  and  many  other 
things.  We  ourselves  make  pai't  of  the  procession,  and 
with  us  are  the  guides  or  sheikhs,  while  behind  us  follow 
their  servants  or  attendants,  our  servants,  cooks,  and  mule- 
teers bringing  up  the  rear.  Occasionally  a  load  gets  loose 
or  falls  off,  and  that  part  of  the  procession  stops  until  the 
difficulty  is  remedied,  when  all  go  on  as  before.  Sometimes 
the  men  discover  that  a  load  does  not  properly  balance ;  in 
that  case,  the  most  common  thing  for  them  to  do  is  to 
take  a  stone  of  five  or  ten  pounds  weight,  as  may  be 
required,  and  add  it  to  the  lighter  side.  This,  of  course, 
adjusts  the  balance,  but  does  so  at  the  expense  of  the  poor 
mule.  But  the  East  is  not  the  place  for  dumb  animals  to 
receive  mercy  at  the  hands  of  men.  No  societies  exist  for 
their  protection ;  and  from  the  time  that  a  beast  of  bui'den 
is  able  to  begin  to  work  until  its  days  are  finished,  its 
10 


218  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

existence  is  one  of  misery.  It  is  beaten  with  clubs  and 
stones,  it  is  bruised,  lamed,  and  cursed  with  the  whole 
catalogue  of  Semitic  anathemas ;  and  at  last,  when  it  sinks 
down  exhausted  and  dies,  its  worn-out  carcass  is  devoured 
by  hungry  vultures  and  starving  dogs. 

Travelling  in  this  country,  especially  as  we  do,  is  not  the 
time  or  place  to  exhibit  one's  horsemanship.  Fine  horse- 
manship under  such  circumstances  as  exist  here,  I  would 
define  as  the  power  of  clinging  to  the  horse.  Horses  know 
the  roads  and  paths,  and  have  a  remarkable  faculty  of 
finding  the  way  where  there  is  none.  If  a  person,  when 
riding,  comes  to  a  diffioult  place  and  trusts  to  the  horse's 
judgment  instead  of  his  own,  he  is  almost  certain  to  pass  it 
in  safety.  The  horses  have  two  gaits :  they  either  walk  or 
run  5  they  have  no  middle  gait  or  canter.  A  fast  walker  is 
the  kind  of  horse  that  is  best  adapted  to  travelling  in  Syria, 
since  it  is  seldom  necessary  or  possible  to  run.  For  my  part, 
I  am  usually  so  encumbered  with  traps  of  various  kinds 
that  there  is  no  comfort  in  having  my  horse  go  faster  than 
a  walk.  I  have  my  sun-umbrella,  to  which  I  cling,  and 
would  no  sooner  go  without  than  I  would  go  bareheaded ; 
my  gun,  and  two  pockets  full  of  cartridges ;  my  compass 
and  field-glass.  In  my  saddle-bags  I  carry  a  geological  ham- 
mer, extra  ammunition,  thermometer,  guide-book,  a  large 
note-book  with  pens  and  ink,  also  string  and  cotton  to  plug 
the  wounds  in  birds  that  are  shot,  and  paper  with  which  to 
wrap  them  up.  These  are  not  aU  the  things  I  carry  in  my 
saddle-bags,  but  I  have  mentioned  enough.  I  shall  not  be 
doubted  when  I  say  that,  at  the  end  of  a  day's  journey,  the 
articles  in  my  bags  are  in  a  state  of  great  confusion.  With 
all  these  traps  about  his  saddle  and  person,  the  best  rider  in 
the  world,  in  case  his  horse  should  run,  would  experience  a 
sensation  of  being  bumped  somewhere !  I  am  frequently 
obliged  to  take  notes  while  I  am  on  horseback  and  the 


LOWER  JORDAN   VALLEY.  219 

horse  is  in  motion.  By  practice  I  have  learned  to  do  this 
pretty  well. 

I  have  said  that  there  was  no  opportunity  here  to  exhibit 
one's  horsemanship.  But  there  is  a  very  splendid  oppor- 
tunity which  many  travellers  avail  themselves  of — of 
showing  one's  lack  of  it !  Such  riding  as  we  sometimes 
see  !  It  cannot  be  described.  Some  persons  would  doubt- 
less be  disposed  to  pity  the  riders ;  but  for  myself,  I  pity 
the  horses.  If  they  had  the  gift  of  a  certain  Biblical  ass, 
they  would  look  round  to  the  superior  being,  and  say : 
"  Well ;  I  wonder  who  you  are  !  I  wonder  what  sort  of 
a  bringing-up  you  have  had  !  "  I  have  known  a  man  who 
was  so  timid  that  he  had  his  horse  led  from  Jaffa  to  Jeru- 
salem, to  Jericho,  Mar  Saba,  Hebron,  and  back  to  Jerusa- 
lem again,  and  thence  all  the  way  up  through  the  country 
to  Beirut.  This  man  was  strong,  and  enjoyed  perfect 
health ;  his  age  was  about  fifty,  and  his  weight  was  about 
one  hundred  and  seventy  pounds.  Besides  that,  he  was  an 
Englishman,  and  I  am  rather  sorry  to  be  obliged  to  add,  a 
clergyman  also.  He  is  pastor  of  a  church  in  London, 
which  has  between  four  hundred  and  five  hundred  mem- 
bers. But  he  is  never  seen  at  the  "  Derby  races."  He  is 
no  7jors<?-parson.  He  is  eminent  for  piety  and  usefulness, 
but  not  for  physical  courage. 

One  gentleman,  who  travelled  with  me  several  days, 
seemed  to  be  entirely  out  of  his  sphere  while  on  horse- 
back. He  fell  off  regularly  every  day,  and  sometimes,  for 
variety,  even  twice  a  day.  It  became  such  a  common 
occurrence  that  at  last  he  lost  our  sympathy.  Once,  when 
riding  in  front  of  him,  I  heard  a  noise  and  a  grunt,  and, 
on  looking  back,  saw  the  poor  man  on  the  ground  directly 
under  the  horse.  The  horse  had  stopped,  and  was  looking 
round  at  him  with  the  most  compassionate  expression 
imaginable.    On  another  occasion,  when  we  were  crossing  a 


220  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

river,  tlie  horse  suddenly  put  liis  head  down  to  drink,  and 
his  rider,  not  being  prepared  for  the  motion,  went  off  very 
gracefully  over  his  head  into  the  water.  His  hat  went 
down  stream,  but  was  afterwards  recovered  by  one  of  the 
muleteers. 

Among  the  personal  property  in  my  tent,  I  cherish  with 
peculiar  feelings  a  small  box,  which  contains  my  needles 
and  thi'ead,  or  what  I  call  "  my  sewing  work."  My  duties 
compel  me  to  go  about  everywhere  ;  and  sometimes,  after  a 
hard  scramble  through  thorns  and  bushes,  and  among 
ruins  and  rocks,  I  come  back  quite  ragged.  Then  I  take 
out  my  little  sewing-box,  and  call  upon  "  my  soul  and  all 
that  is  within  me "  to  be  as  patient  as  possible  while  I  sit 
down  to  sew.  With  bruised  and  stiffened  fingers  the  task 
is  not  an  easy  one.  On  such  occasions  the  theme  that  I 
always  reflect  upon  is  woman's  rights.  And  I  resolve,  over 
and  over  again,  that  they  may  have  in  welcome  all  the 
rights  of  men  they  may  ask  for  or  claim,  provided  they 
will  excuse  me  from  assuming  any  of  their  rights  in  case 
sewing  must  be  included  among  them. 

I  have  had  occasion  to  cross  the  Jordan  frequently  of 
late,  and  the  comfortable  ferry-boat  here  is  to  me  a  gi'eat 
convenience.  It  is  an  improvement  on  wading  and  getting 
one's  clothes  wet.  When  I  went  to  Jerusalem,  the  boat  first 
took  us  across  and  then  returned  for  our  animals ;  whether 
it  was  because  they  did  not  wish  to  run  any  risk  with 
their  boat,  or  to  obtain  more  money  by  increasing  the 
number  of  trips,  I  could  not  understand.  There  were 
many  pilgrims  on  the  west  bank,  and  loads  of  them  were 
being  taken  over,  merely  for  the  novelty  of  the  thing, — 
to  be  able  to  say  in  far-off  Russia,  and  about  the  Black  Sea, 
whence  they  had  come,  that  they  had  actually  crossed  the 
sacred  river  and  planted  theu'  feet  on  the  eastern  shore; 
but  hundreds    of    them  were    scattered    over    the   -^\im\ 


LOWEB  JOBBAN   VALLEY.  221 

between  the  river  and  Jericho,  and  the  road  between 
Jericho  and  Jernsalem  was  lined  with  these  people.  Their 
costumes  were  strange,  and  many  of  them  walked  as 
though  they  were  well-nigh  exhausted  with  the  long  jour- 
ney under  a  burning  sun. 

At  Jericho  the  pomegranates  are  now  in  bloom.  The 
blossoms  are  large,  pear  or  trumpet  shaped,  of  intense 
scarlet  color,  and  very  beautiful.  Near  the  khan,  men 
were  digging  and  evidently  preparing  to  build  some  kind 
of  a  house  of  a  better  character  than  anything  that 
exists  here  at  present,  and  I  noticed  that  they  found 
old  ruins  at  some  distance  below  the  surface.  The  remains 
of  old  Jericho  of  Joshua's  time,  and  of  the  rich  and 
elegant  city  of  Christ's  time,  must  be  buried  somewhere  on 
this  plain,  and  it  is  a  pity  that  they  cannot  be  sought  for 
and  brought  to  light. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 
Lower  Jordan  Valley.— The  Shittim  Plain.— Continued. 

Exploration  work.  Mouth  of  the  Jordan.  Drift-wood  in  the  Dead  Sea. 
Difference  in  the  level  of  the' Dead  Sea.  Is  the  sea  filling  up  ?  Valley 
like  a  furnace.  The  air  does  not  invigorate.  Singular  pits  in  the 
plain.  Arab  tradition  connected  with  them.  A  gentle  rain.  Terrible 
condition  of  the  paths.  Camels  injuring  themselves.  Birds  singing 
in  the  night.  Thunderstorm.  Fine  effect.  My  Arabs  and  Dr.  Tris- 
tram's "  Natural  History  of  the  Bible."  Collecting  sulphur  on  the 
opposite,  or  western,  bank.  My  companion  returns  from  Jerusalem. 
Dr.  Thomson  and  son  join  us  at  Tell  el  Hammam.  Wadies  Kefrein 
and  Hasban.  Dolmens.  Circvdar  stone  of  great  size.  Site  of  the 
"Cities  of  the  Plain." 

SINCE  returning  from  Jerusalem  I  have  done  a  good 
deal  of  work.  I  have  crossed  the  Shittim  plain  in 
several  directions,  besides  following  down  the  Jordan  to 
where  it  enters  the  Dead  Sea,  following  the  Dead  Sea 
around  the  north-east  corner,  and  thence  examining  the 
foot-hills  as  far  north  as  Wady  Nimrin.  AU  the  tells  or 
mounds  on  the  plain  have  been  visited,  angles  and  dis- 
tances measured,  and  the  work  plotted.  Following  the 
course  of  the  river,  Wady  Kefrein  is  one  hour  and 
twenty-five  minutes  and  the  Dead  Sea  is  three  hours  and 
fifteen  minutes  below  our  camping-place  opposite  the  Jeri- 
cho ford.     The  large  island  in  the  Jordan  just  north  of 


LOWER  JORDAN   VALLEY.  223 

its  entrance  into  the  Dead  Sea,  was  covered  with  water- 
fowl, and  among  them  were  storks,  herons,  large  white 
egrets,  ducks  of  several  kinds,  and  some  birds  which 
resembled  wild  geese,  but  what  they  were  I  do  not  know. 
Several  of  the  birds  that  I  saw  here  were  unlike  any  that 
I  had  before  seen  since  coming  to  the  country.  They 
were  very  shy,  and  rose  while  we  were  still  at  a  long  dis- 
tance from  them.  Farther  north,  in  a  place  of  still 
water,  some  huge  animal  started  from  the  bank,  plunged 
across  the  stream,  and  disappeared  in  the  jungle  on  the 
opposite  side,  leaving  behind  him  a  muddy  path  in  the  water. 
We  could  not  discover  what  kind  of  an  animal  this  ^vas ;  and 
on  the  opposite  side,  although  the  thicket  was  not  extensive, 
we  saw  no  motion.  Doubtless  the  creature  felt  secure  in 
his  unknown  lair. 

One  half-hour  before  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  Jordan, 
the  water  was  so  brackish  that  we  could  not  drink  it.  Our 
walk,  or  rather  struggle,  along  the  shore  of  the  Dead  Sea 
eastward,  was  partly  on  the  land  and  partly  on  the  drift- 
wood, which  exists  here  in  vast  quantities.  Our  animals 
had  to  be  taken  back  some  distance,  and  they  did  not  come 
up  with  us  for  two  or  three  hours.  The  plain  for  many 
square  miles  just  north  of  the  sea  is  like  ashes,  in  which  we 
often  sank  over  shoe,  and  our  beasts  would  have  had  a 
terrible  time  in  crossing  it,  even  if  they  had  been  able  to 
do  so.  Trunks  of  tamarisks  and  palms  exist  in  great 
numbers  among  the  drift-wood,  and  my  wonder  is  where 
the  palms  come  from,  unless  they  are  the  accumulation  of 
ages,  and  have  been  preserved  by  the  salt.  As  the  Jordan 
enters  the  Dead  Sea,  its  current  bends  strongly  to  the  east, 
and  hence  the  drift-wood  collects  along  that  portion  to 
which  I  have  referred. 

Very  near  the  shore  edge  of  this  drift-wood  I  noticed  a 
little  stream,  a  mere  rill,  flowing  from  the  east  in  a  direc- 


224  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

tion  opposite  to  the  current  of  the  Jordan  in  the  Dead  Sea. 
as  ah-eady  indicated,  and  in  it  were  a  multitude  of  small 
fish,  each  about  one  inch  in  length.  If  no  animal  life 
exists  in  the  Dead  Sea  itself,  these  fish  were  living  only  a 
few  feet  from  it. 

About  three  miles  east  of  the  mouth  of  the  Jordan,  quite 
a  large  tree  was  standing  upright  in  the  sea,  all  the  top  of 
which,  /.  c,  its  Hmbs,  and  a  part  of  the  trunk,  was  out  of 
the  water.  It  was  forty  feet  from  the  shore,  and  in  its 
branches  some  strange  birds  were  resting.  It  looked  as 
if  it  grew  where  it  stood,  and  altogether  it  was  a  remark- 
able object.  The  Dead  Sea  varies  several  feet,  more  or 
less,  in  its  level  at  different  seasons,  and  this  may 
account  for  the  trunk  of  this  tree  being  partly  sub- 
merged. 

Since  so  vast  an  amount  of  soil  and  other  material  is 
carried  down  l)y  the  Jordan  every  year,  it  seems  that  a 
process  of  fiUing-in  must  be  going  on  in  some  jjart  of  the 
sea,  either  at  the  bottom  or  on  the  shores  where  this 
material  is  carried  by  the  current  of  the  river.  Our  walk 
of  some  hours  along  the  shore  and  then  north,  until  our 
horses  could  reach  us,  was  very  trying.  We  ran  a  great 
risk  of  becoming  overheated,  and  that  would  have  been  a 
terrible  calamity  in  this  desolate  place. 

Tell  er  Rama,  where  we  rested  during  the  hot  part  of  one 
day,  is  a  place  of  great  interest.  There  are  some  trees 
and  fine  wheat  fields  about  it,  and  near  it  an  abundance 
of  water  that  comes  down  from  Wady  Hasban. 

To-day  (April  5),  at  my  tent,  the  thermometer  showed 
67°  at  7  A.  M.,  89°  at  12  M.,  and  79°  at  6  P.  M. 

I  visited  again  the  strange  pits  at  the  north  of  Wady 
Nimrin,  and,  besides  writing  up  my  notes,  have  done  little 
else.  It  has  been  too  oppressively  hot  to  do  anything. 
The  air  is  like  that  from  a  fui'nace.     To  breathe  it  does 


LOWER  JOBDAN   VALLEY.  225 

not  invigorate  one,  and  that  is  just  tlie  trouble.  To 
labor,  either  with  mind  or  body,  under  such  circum- 
stances, requires  an  unusual  effort. 

On  my  way  to  the  pits  I  passed  Tell  Ghurba,  which  is  in 
Wady  Nimrin,  and  on  the  north  side  of  it.  Wady  Nimrin 
is  very  broad.  If  it  were  full  of  water,  as  doubtless  it  is 
sometimes  during  the  rainy  season,  it  would  be  a  large 
river.  The  ruins  on  this  tell  consist  of  a  few  piles  of  stones, 
to  which  I  attach  no  importance. 

The  pits  mentioned  are  generally  thirty  feet  in  diameter, 
and  are  from  three  feet  to  six  feet  deep.  In  those  that 
appear  to  be  most  nearly  perfect,  there  is  a  marked  rim  of 
earth  or  gravel,  which  is  not  broken  at  any  point.  In  the 
series  nearest  Wady  Nimrin  there  are  at  present  only 
twelve,  but  the  line  of  these  runs  into  the  wady,  and  the 
washing  away  of  the  bank  may  have  destroyed  a  good 
many.  The  line  of  these  is  north  77°  east.  From  the 
same  point,  Tell  Ghurba  is  261^°,  and  the  old  mill  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain  on  the  road  from  Jericho  to  Jeru- 
salem is  256°.  From  Tell  Ghiu'ba  the  angle  to  this  last 
point  was  255°,  to  Tell  Nimrin  85°,  and  to  Kurn  Sar- 
tabeh  342°.  But  the  main  series  is  one  hour  north  of 
Wady  Nimrin.  There  are  two  lines  converging  from  the 
east,  and  the  series  continues  to  the  west  for  some  dis- 
tance beyond  the  point  of  union.  From  the  pit  at  the 
point  of  union  one  line  is  north  70°  east,  and  the  other 
120°,  and  the  line  running  west  is  290°.  Kurn  Sar- 
tabeh,  from  the  same  point,  is  335°,  and  the  old  mill,  on 
the  road  from  Jericho  to  Jerusalem,  is  245°.  The  pit  at 
this  point  is  larger  than  the  others,  and  better  preserved 
than  many.  I  took  special  pains  to  see  if  there  were  any 
marks  of  water  having  been  conveyed  from  one  to  another, 
but  could  discover  no  such  traces.  In  this  series  there  are 
thirty-one  pits  in  the  longest  line  and  twenty  in  the  other. 
10* 


226  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

The  line  probably  extended  somewhat  farther  towards  the 
Jordan,  but  the  pits  in  that  du'ection  have  beeii  obliterated 
in  some  way.  Indications  of  their  use  might  be  developed 
if  cuttings  coidd  be  made  in  them  ;  but  the  heat  was  great, 
and  I  coidd  not  ask  our  men  to  dig  in  the  baked  earth 
under  a  sun  that  raised  the  mercury  to  120°  or  more. 

The  Arabs  have  no  notion  as  to  the  date  of  these  pits  5 
they  only  say  that  they  are  very  old  and  were  made  for 
military  purposes.  A  curious  tradition  is  connected  with 
thenij  which  I  had  repeated  to  me  on  several  different 
occasions  in  order  that  I  might  be  sure  of  the  details. 
The  substance  of  the  legend  is  as  follows :  In  very  remote 
times  there  lived  a  powerful  sheikh  named  Zeer.  His  rela- 
tives were  jealous  of  him,  and  his  brothers  and  uncles  and 
members  of  his  own  family  conspired  to  put  him  out  of 
the  way,  and  to  take  possession  of  his  kingdom.  They 
succeeded  in  taking  him  captive,  and  then  confined  him 
in  a  large  chest,  which  they  threw  into  the  sea.  This  was 
found  by  some  fishermen,  and  carried  to  a  certain  Jewish 
king,  who  opened  it  and  released  the  prisoner  (who  was 
still  alive)  from  his  confinement,  and  kept  him  in  his 
palace.  When  the  king  went  to  his  wars,  Zeer  accom- 
panied him ;  but,  as  he  had  no  horse,  he  was  accustomed 
to  sit  on  the  fence  or  wall  and  pound  his  heels  into  it  until 
they  bled.  The  king's  daughter  noticed  this  conduct  and 
told  her  father  that  this  strange  man  must  be  a  horseman, 
and  requested  that  horses  might  be  given  to  him,  which 
was  done.  He  proved  such  a  famous  rider  that  he  killed 
several  horses.  At  last  he  told  the  king  that  he  must  have 
a  Msan  ez  zeer^  that  is,  the  product  of  a  horse  of  the  land 
with  a  horse  of  the  sea.  When  this  was  given  to  him, 
it  proved  perfectly  able  to  endure  his  violent  riding.  After 
a  while  he  tried  to  recover  his  dominions,  and  made  war 
upon  his  own  people  for  that  purpose.     They  dug  these 


LOWEB  JOBBAN   VALLEY.  227 

pits,  expecting  that  lie  would  fall  into  them  and  be  killed. 
He  fell  in,  but  his  nephew  rescued  him,  and  he  afterwards 
conquered  his  brothers  and  uncles  and  recovered  his  king- 
dom and  possessions. 

This  legend  seems  to  indicate  clearly  that  the  pits  were 
for  military  purposes ;  but  it  is  a  very  singular  circum- 
stance that  a  powerful  Jewish  prince  shoidd  be  the  deliv- 
erer of  the  person  who  was  in  trouble.  What  the  "  slime- 
pits  "  of  Gen.  xiv.,  10,  were  1  do  not  understand,  nor  do  I 
know  the  object  of  these  pits  which  exist  here  at  present. 
I  simply  state  the  facts  with  regard  to  the  latter  as  I  have 
been  able  to  collect  them.  In  my  judgment,  however,  the 
arrangement  of  the  lines  of  pits  is  such,  that  if  a  body  of 
horsemen  should  attempt  to  pass  the  point  at  full  speed, 
they  could  easily  be  thrown  into  confusion  by  them. 

Pkiday,  April  7,  1876.  ' 

"Wednesday  night  and  Thursday  we  had  a  very  gentle 
rain.  If  it  extended  far  enough,  it  may  be  the  salvation  of 
the  crops,  which  were  suffering  badly.  But  the  walking, 
after  a  rain  in  this  vaUey,  one  must  experience  to  appre- 
ciate. When  it  has  rained  sufficiently  to  soften  the  earth, 
one  sinks  into  it  at  every  step,  but  when  only  the  surface 
of  the  ground  is  softened,  the  paths  are  so  sHppery  that 
one  cannot  stand  on  his  feet.  At  such  times  it  is  danger- 
ous to  move  animals,  especially  if  they  are  loaded,  and 
camels  are  almost  useless, — in  fact,  they  are  in  danger  of 
injuring  themselves  by  slipping,  an  accident  which  fre- 
quently occurs.  But  when  the  roads  and  paths  are  in  such 
a  condition,  both  men  and  animals  generally  he  by,  unless 
the  necessity  for  their  moving  is  very  great. 

The  Sodom-apple  wood,  which  I  have  saved  for  speci- 
mens, is  very  delicate  stuff  to  handle.     The  ribs  of  its  bark 


228  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

are  easily  injured  or  "broken,  and  even  pressing  it  spoils  its 
beauty.  I  have  wrapped  my  specimens  in  cotton  and 
packed  them  in  cloths,  and  devoted  a  special  box  to  them, 
hoping  that  they  wiU  go  safely. 

There  is  a  bird  in  these  trees  which  sings  in  the  night. 
During  the  first  two  nights,  feeling  a  little  anxiety  because 
I  am  alone  with  my  Arabs,  I  awaked  several  times,  and 
always  heard  that  bird  singing  a  soft,  sweet  melody.  I 
should  dislike  to  shoot  such  a  bird,  even  if  I  had  a  chance ; 
still,  I  would  like  to  see  and  keep,  if  possible,  this  pleasant 
night  companion. 

Last  night  it  rained  again  very  hard,  and  there  was 
a  good  deal  of  thunder  which  was  unusually  grand. 
The  deep,  narrow  Jordan  valley,  and  the  walls  of  moun- 
tain on  either  side,  afford  a  splendid  opportunity  for  a 
thunderstorm  to  produce  a  fine  effect.  The  river  is  now 
high,  the  plains  are  drenched,  and  the  paths  are  badly 
washed;  this  morning  there  was  a  fresh  breeze,  which 
was  invigorating  and  which  cleared  the  sky. 

For  two  nights  past,  our  men,  in  an  adjoining  tent 
whither  they  were  driven  by  the  storm  from  their  usual 
sleeping-places  under  the  trees,  have  had  an  unusual 
amount  of  fun.  They  sing  songs,  tell  stories,  and  imitate 
the  noises  of  various  animals,  showing,  at  least,  the  enli- 
vening effect  which  two  or  three  days'  respite  from  labor 
has  had  upon  them.  Both  evenings  one  of  the  sheikhs 
has  been  in  my  tent,  examining  the  pictures  in  Dr.  Tris- 
tram's "  Natural  History  of  the  Bible."  As  he  found 
the  boar,  the  cony,  the  hare,  and  other  animals  with 
which  he  was  familiar,  his  surprise  was  gi'eat,  and 
his  expressions  of  delight  were  very  emphatic.  I  was 
greatly  interested  in  watching  Mm.  The  second  evening 
he  borrowed  the  book  and  took  it  to  his  companions,  and  I 
am  sure  no  children  ever  entertained  themselves  for  an 


LOWER  JORDAN   VALLEY.  229 

hour  or  two  mth  a  new  picture-book  more  intensely  than 
did  these  Arabs  with  the  pictures  of  the  animals  in  this 
volume. 

I  have  been  twice  across  the  river,  especially  to  examine 
the  strata  in  the  opposite  bank,  and  the  deposits  of  sulphur 
which  exist  there.  The  banks  rise  from  sixty  feet  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  perpendicular  height.  Sometimes 
they  are  not  connected  with  the  peaks  and  ridges  behind 
them,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  reach  their  summits.  In 
two  or  three  instances,  however,  I  succeeded  in  reaching 
the  very  top,  which  I  found  consisted  of  soft  earth,  with 
ashes,  into  which  I  sank  ankle-deep  at  every  step.  At  some 
points  at  the  very  bottom  of  these  hills,  a  stratum  of  peb- 
bles is  exposed,  which  have  been  worn  smooth  by  the 
action  of  water.  These  would  be  about  on  the  level 
with  the  water  in  the  Jordan  as  it  is  at  present.  The 
layers  of  earth  which  form  these  high  banks  are  all  hor- 
izontal, showing  that  they  are  sedimentary  deposits. 
There  will  be  a  stratum  resembling  clay  several  inches 
thick,  above  that  another  resembling  chalk,  and  next  a 
stratum  of  some  substance  as  black  as  tar;  perhaps  there 
are  twelve  or  more  different  varieties  of  substance  and 
color  in  these  deposits,  and  the  effect  of  this  mass  of 
variegated  layers  is  beautiful.  But  the  sulphur  strata  are 
in  aU  cases  near  the  top.  It  is  next  to  impossible  to  get 
at  them  from  above  or  below.  The  pieces  loosen  and  roll 
down  and  are  generally  broken  into  fragments.  There  is 
a  gypsum  formation  in  connection  with  the  sulphur,  on 
which  the  latter  appears  in  very  beautiful  crystals.  The 
highest  parts  of  the  bank  where  I  found  the  sulphur 
would  be  on  a  level  with  the  plain  of  the  Upper  Ghor. 

Van  Dyck  has  just  returned — eight  P.M.  The  party 
reached  Jericho  rather  late,  and  Dr.  Thomson  and  his  son 
decided  to  remain  at  'Ain  Sultan  and  join  us  in  the  morn- 


230  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

ing,  as  they  were  tired  and  did  uot  care  to  travel  fi'om 
Jericho  after  dark. 

Towards  night  I  went  out  with  my  rifle  and  shot-gun  to 
a  place  where  we  had  seen  some  wild  hogs  with  their  young, 
but  I  saw  no  game  of  any  kind.  At  last,  a  mere  speck  of 
something  darted  past  my  ear  and  lighted  only  a  short 
distance  from  me.  There  was  not  enough  of  the  creatui*e 
to  aim  my  gun  at,  still  I  brought  it  down.  It  proved  to 
be  a  beautiful  sunbii-d  (Cynniris  AsiaticaJ,  the  only  one 
we  have  in  our  collection.  It  has  delicate  shades  of  pea- 
cock green  and  blue  on  the  back ;  on  the  throat  and 
breast,  gi'een,  shading  to  blue  and  purple  in  the  changing 
light;  and  is  marked  under  each  wing  with  a  spot  of  brill- 
iant orange  and  yellow.  This  was  all  that  I  brought  in, 
and  when  the  men  saw  me  with  two  guns  and  this  tiny 
bii"d,  they  asked  me  if  I  shot  it  with  the  Winchester  rifle. 


Camp  at  Tell  el  Hammam,  Saturday,  April  S,  1876. 

We  moved  our  camp  to  this  place  early  this  morning. 
Van  Dyck  went  with  an  Arab  to  'Ain  Sultan  to  accompany 
Dr.  Thomson  and  his  son  Henry,  and  after  they  joined  us 
the  day  was  spent  in  examining  the  ruins  and  the  foot-hills 
between  Nimrin  on  the  north  and  Tell  Ektanu  on  the  south. 

There  has  been  an  important  town  here,  and  the  hot 
springs,  no  doubt,  formed  its  chief  attraction  in  ancient 
tunes.  But  of  aU  this  group  of  teUs,  the  ruins  on  Tell 
Ektanu  are  the  most  important.  One  building  on  its  sum- 
mit was  two  hundred  feet  from  east  to  west,  with  an 
entrance  on  the  east  side.  The  foundation  stones  are  large, 
while  above  these  are  the  remains  of  a  layer  of  conglomer- 
ate stones,  which  have  fallen  to  pieces  with  age  or  by  the 
action  of  the  climate.  But  Tell  er  Rama  is  the  place  where 
I  would  like  first  to  put  in  the  spade.  This  is  the  Beth 
Haranof  Joshua's  time, — the  Betharamphtha  of  Josephus's 


LOWER  JOBDAN   VALLEY. 


231 


time, —  a  place  which  Herod  Antipas  rebuilt  and  called 
Julias  (or  Livias),  in  honor  of  Julia,  the  wife  of  Augustus. 
As  in  nearly  every  other  instance  in  the  Jordan  valley, 
so  here  towns  sprang  up  on  or  near  a  living  stream, 
and  generally  not  far  from  where  it  left  the  hills.  The 
stream  in  Wady  Kef  rein  flows  under  and  just  north  of 
Tell  el  Hanmiam.  The  stream  in  Wady  Hasban  flows 
under  and  north  of  Tell  Ektanu,  and  also  near  Tell  er 
Rama.  They  are  both  large  streams,  and  we  must  cross 
on  horseback  or  else  wade ;  and  getting  wet  is  good 
neither  for  health  nor  comfort. 

Between  Tell  Ektanu  and  Tell  el  Hammam  there  is,  near 
the  hill,  a  large  group  of  flue  dolmens.  In  a  few  cases  the 
roof  stone  is  pointed,  with  sloping  sides  like  the  covers  of 
some  of  the  sarcophagi  that  are  found  in  different  parts 
of  the  country.  It  is 
remarkable  that  no 
satisfactory  explana- 
tion of  these  curious 
objects  has  ever  been 
made. 

About  half-way  be- 
tween these  two  pla- 
ces I  found  an  im- 
mense circular  stone 
lying  on  the  top  of  the 
ground.  It  is  eleven 
feet  four  inches  in 
diameter,  forty-four  inches  thick,  and  has  a  round  hole 
in  the  centre  twenty-five  inches  in  diameter.  It  is  made 
of  hard  sandstone  of  a  kind  and  quality  unlike  any  that 
exists  in  the  neighboring  hills,  and  I  judge  that  it  must 
have  been  brought  from  the  north.  The  outer  edge  is 
slightly  convex,  and  the  stone  does  not  appear  to  have 
been  used. 


Ancient    Mill-stone,    Shittim    Plai 


232  EAST   OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

Nearly  a  mile  from  Tell  el  Hammam,  up  Wady  Kefi'ein, 
is  a  ruin  called  M'hadliar,  and  around  it  is  a  trench. 
In  the  valley  below  it  is  a  ruined  mill  standing  on  a  little 
knoll  called  Jaudat.  Opposite  M'hadhar,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  wady,  is  another  ruin  called  Hubbisa.  This 
wady  is  a  large  one,  and  the  long  stretch  of  oleanders 
on  the  banks  of  the  stream  are  now  in  bloom.  On  the 
east  of  Tell  el  Hammam,  at  the  foot  of  the  hiU,  is  a  fine 
aqueduct.  It  is  cemented,  and  for  the  most  part  covered 
with  earth.  Were  it  not  exposed  at  a  few  points,  one 
would  not  be  aware  of  its  existence.  It  runs  to  the  south 
from  Wady  Kefrein,  and  appears  not  to  have  been  used 
for  a  long  time. 

Two  American  gentlemen,  Messrs.  Sumner  and  Hammond, 
who  are  travelling  in  Palestine,  expressed  a  great  desire  to 
visit  Mount  Nebo,  and  we  invited  them  to  accompany  us, 
assuring  them  that  we  would  be  responsible  for  their  safety 
while  in  Arab-land.  They  arrived  this  afternoon,  and  will 
spend  the  Sabbath  with  us  here,  and  be  ready  to  visit  Nebo 
(m  Monday  or  Tuesday.  Our  camp,  with  the  reinforcement 
it  has  had  to-day,  presents  quite  a  stirring  scene.  We 
have  six  tents  and  twenty-five  or  thu-ty  animals. 

I  present  here  some  considerations  regarding  the  site  of 
the  "  Cities  of  the  Plain,"  one  of  the  important  Biblical 
questions  connected  with  the  topography  of  Eastern  Pales- 
tine. Were  they  at  the  south  end  of  the  Dead  Sea  f  Have 
they  been  submerged  ?  Or  were  they  on  the  Shittim  plain  at 
the  north  end  of  the  Dead  Sea?  The  traditional  opinion  is 
that  they  were  submerged ;  and  we  find  in  some  of  the  old 
maps,  Sodom,  Gomorrah,  Admah,  and  Zeboim  represented 
at  suitable  distances  from  each  other  at  the  bottom  of  the 
Dead  Sea,  and  enveloped  in  flames !  Until  recently,  the 
opinion  held  by  a  majority  of  the  best  Biblical  scholars  was 


LOWER  JOBDAN   VALLEY.  233 

a  modification  of  that  just  stated,  namely,  that  the  shallow 
water  south  of  the  promontory  El  Lisan  covered  the  sites 
of  the  doomed  cities.  But  the  geological  researches  that 
have  been  can-ied  on  about  the  Dead  Sea  during  the  past 
few  years  have  made  both  these  theories  no  longer  tenable. 
These  researches  show  that  the  surface  of  the  Dead  Sea 
was  never  less  in  extent  than  it  is  at  present,  which  must 
have  been  the  case  if  any  portion  of  the  sea  south  of  El 
Lisan  has  been  created  by  submergence  of  the  land.  Dm*ing 
past  geological  ages  the  surface  of  the  sea  has  contracted  to 
its  present  limits.  The  destruction  of  these  cities  took  place 
within  historical  times;  but  within  historical  times  there 
has  been  no  convulsion  in  that  region,  or  change  in  the  sea 
or  land  about  it,  to  justify  either  of  the  opinions  to  which 
reference  has  been  made. 

Since  Zoar  was  one  of  the  "  cities  of  the  plain,"  a  hint  as 
to  their  situation  may  be  derived  fi*om  Gen.  xiii.,  10,  where 
Lot  and  Abraham  are  represented  as  standing  on  a  hill 
near  Bethel,  and  looking  down  the  Jordan  vaUey  towards 
the  Dead  Sea.  As  this  verse  is  rendered  in  our  English 
Bible,  the  meaning  is  not  clear ;  but  it  will  become  so 
when  all  the  middle  portion  of  the  verse  is  read  as  a 
parenthesis,  as  follows :  '^  And  Lot  lifted  up  his  eyes  and 
beheld  all  the  plain  of  Jordan  (that  it  was  well  watered 
everywhere,  before  the  Lord  destroyed  Sodom  and  Gomor- 
rah, even  as  the  garden  of  the  Lord  like  the  land  of  Egypt), 
until  thou  comest  to  Zoar."  The  last  clause  qualifies  the 
first.  Lot  saw  aU  the  plain  of  Jordan  as  far  as  Zoar,  or 
"  until  you  come  to  Zoar."  Zoar  was  both  the  limit  of  the 
plam  and  the  limit  of  vision  in  that  direction,  so  far  as 
the  land  was  concerned.  How  much  of  the  Dead  Sea  he 
saw  is  not  stated ;  but  no  human  vision,  unless  miracu- 
lously aided,  could  reach  to  the  southern  end  and  distin- 
guish anytJiing ;  while,  from  the  point  where  he  stood,  the 


234  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

greenness  and  beauty  of  the  great  Shittim  plain  are 
distinctly  seen.  The  phrase,  ''  all  the  plain  of  the  Jor- 
dan," cannot  include  the  salt  marsh  at  the  southern  end 
of  the  Dead  Sea,  since  this  marsh  is  fifty  miles  from  the 
river,  and  belongs  to  a  water  system  entirely  distinct 
from  that  at  the  northern  end  of  the  sea. 

The  book  of  Joshua,  chapter  xv.,  in  defining  the  terri- 
tory of  Judah,  speaks  twice  of  "the  end  of  the  Jordan," 
meaning  the  mouth  of  that  river.  The  river  and  "  the 
plain  of  the  Jordan"  end  together. 

The  tradition  maintains  that  the  region  about  these 
cities  became  barren  and  desolate  in  consequence  of  the 
catastrophe  which  overtook  them.  This  desolation  reached 
such  a  degree  that  the  region  became  uninhabitable,  and 
thereafter  always  remained  in  that  condition.  But  there 
is  no  section  about  the  Dead  Sea  which  corresponds  to 
such  a  state  of  things.  The  broad  and  fertile  Shittim 
plain  was  occupied  by  cities  in  the  time  of  Joshua,  and 
the  same  is  true  of  the  time  of  Josephus.  There  has 
always  been  a  mountain  of  rock-salt  at  the  south  end  of 
the  Dead  Sea,  and  there  must  always  have  been  salt  fields 
and  marshes  near  it.  The  existence  of  fertile  land  and 
ruins,  whether  at  the  north  or  the  south  end  of  the  sea,  is 
a  sufficient  answer  to  the  tradition  just  stated.  The  Bible 
does  not  warrant  us  in  supposing  that  the  sites  of  those 
cities  were  destroyed  or  obliterated,  or  that  the  destruction 
by  "  brimstone  and  fire  "  of  "  that  which  grew  upon  the 
ground"  (Gren.  xix.,  24,  25)  was  anything  more  than  tempo- 
rary. A  region  once  fertile  would  always  remain  so,  unless 
its  Avater  supply  was  in  some  way  cut  off ;  and  there  is  no 
reason  to  suppose  that  this  has  ever  been  the  case  of  any 
section  at  either  end  of  the  Dead  Sea. 

The  few  riiins  at  the  south  end  of  the  Dead  Sea  are 
insignificant.      The    small    amount  of    fertile  land   there 


LOWER  JOED  AN  VALLEY.  235 

coiild  never  have  been  a  desirable  location  for  towns  or 
villages.  On  tlie  other  hand,  there  is  a  remarkable  group 
of  tells  at  the  north  end  of  the  Dead  Sea,  which  are  cov- 
ered with  ruins,  and  some  of  which  are  the  sites  of  cities 
that  existed  in  the  days  of  Joshua. 

The  Bible  represents  the  catastrophe,  which  was  a 
sudden  conflagration,  as  one.  One  and  the  same  confla- 
gration could  not  be  said  to  destroy  Boston,  New  York, 
Philadelphia,  and  Baltimore.  The  cities  which  were  to  be 
destroyed  in  this  manner  must  have  formed  a  group  in 
pretty  close  proximity  to  each  other.  Only  five  sites  are 
required,  namely,  Sodom,  Gromorrah,  Admah,  Zeboim,  and 
Zoar.  Zoar  was  spared  on  accou^nt  of  Lot,  because  he 
made  it  his  temporary  refuge,  which  reduces  the  number 
of  cities  that  perished  to  four.  If  we  take  the  account  of 
the  catastrophe  as  literal,  the  time  which  was  allowed  to 
Lot  to  flee  to  the  "  little  city "  must  be  considered,  with- 
out, however,  laying  any  very  great  stress  upon  it.  This 
was  from  dawn  to  sunrise, — perhaps  haK  an  houi'.  The 
fatal  objection  to  all  the  hitherto  proposed  sites  of  the 
"  httle  city  "  is  that  they  are  several  times  too  far  from  the 
scene  of  the  disaster,  whether  the  cities  that  were  destroyed 
are  placed  at  the  south  or  at  the  north  end  of  the  Dead  Sea. 

On  the  Shittim  plain,  at  the  north-east  corner  of  the  Dead 
Sea,  there  are  five  important  ancient  sites,  namely,  TeU 
Kefrein,  Tell  er  Rama,  TeU  el  Hammam,  TeU  Ektanu,  and 
Suweimeh.  Tell  Ninirin,  being  some  mUes  farther  to  the 
north,  is  not  reckoned  in  this  list.    To  these  should  be  added 

TeU  esh  Shaghur,    \  ^\t>.     This  name  occurs  several  times 

in  different  parts  of  the  country,  and  is  said  to  mean 
a  rough,  rocky  place.  This  is  one-fourth  of  a  mile,  or  a 
little  more,  north  of  TeU  er  Rama,  and  on  the  north  side  of 
the  stream  coming  down  in  "Wady  Hasban.     It  is  a  smaU 


236  EAST  OF  THE  JOKDAN. 

mound,  and  consists  of  large  fragments  of  rock,  -vvitli  no 
ruins  upon  it  except  those  of  a  mill.  ^ 

Among  this  group,  Tell  Ektanu,  y\ij\,  deserves  par- 
ticular attention,  both  on  account  of  its  position  and  name. 
The  mound  is  south  of  Wady  Hasban,  and  nearer  the  moun- 
tains of  Moab  than  any  of  the  others.  If  the  intention  of 
Lot  was  to  flee  to  these  mountains,  and  he  stopped  in  the 
"little  city"  for  lack  of  time  to  go  farther,  this  would  be  the 
only  suitable  place  of  those  mounds  that  are  now  covered 
with  ruins.  The  ruins  on  this  mound  appear  to  be  of 
great  age.  This  fact  proves  nothing,  however,  except  that 
this  is  one  of  the  oldest  eligible  building-sites  in  that 
region.  There  was  formerly  a  castle,  or  some  large  build- 
ing, upon  this  mound,  as  we  have  described  on  p.  230. 
The  foundations,  as  they  appear  among  the  other  ruins,  are 
of  a  massive  and  substantial  character.  The  Arabs  give  no 
account  of  the  place  or  of  the  meaning  of  the  name,  except 
saying  that  both  are  very  old.  So  far  as  we  could  learn, 
the  name  has  no  meaning  in  Arabic,  and  its  origin  and 
signification  must  be  looked  for  elsewhere.  We  suggest 
that  it  may  be  the  Hebrew  word  "  katan,"  which  means 
little^  or  little  one.  This  has  been  declared  to  be  impos- 
sible, because  the  i  of  this  word  is  ";  (  =:  the  Hebrew  n ), 
while  the  t  of  "katan"  is  ts, — letters  which  the  writer  re- 
ferred to  states  "  never  interchange."  But  when  Gesenius, 
Fiirst,  and  other  eminent  lexicogTaphers  or  grammarians 
say  that  the  Arabic  ";  and  the  Hebrew  u  do  interchange, 
the  view  of  the  "WTiter  just  referred  to,  who  is  not  a  Semitic 
scholar,  needs  no  further  consideration. 

It  is  well  known  that  in  ancient  times  the  Phcenicians 
gave  the  name  "  Katana,"  or  "  Katone,"  to  one  or  more 
cities  or  places.  This  fact  is  mentioned  incidentally,  how- 
ever, and  not  as  having  any  necessary  connection  with  an 
old  Canaanite  city  in  the  Jordan  valley. 


LOWER  JORDAN   VALLEY.  237 

When  this  group  (i.  e.,  Sodom  and  the  others)  is  first 
mentioned,  neither  Bela  (the  ancient  name  of  Zoar)  nor 
Zoar  itself  appears  (Gen.  x.,  19).  When  the  names  next 
occur,  Bela  appears,  ])ut  with  a  parenthetical  clause  follow- 
ing it,  to  the  effect  that  at  that  time  of  writing  the  city 
was  called  Zoar  (G-en.  xiv.,  2 ;  see  ver.  8).  At  the  time  of 
Chedorlaomer,  the  place  appears  to  have  been  known  by  the 
name  of  Bela,  which,  quite  likely,  is  not  a  Hebrew  word  at 
all ;  but  in  the  same  period,  in  the  account  of  what  Lot  saw 
in  the  plain  of  the  Jordan,  Zoar  appears  without  any  men- 
tion of  Bela.  After  the  invasion  of  Chedorlaomer,  Bela 
drops  out  of  sight,  and  Zoar  is  not  mentioned  again 
except  in  connection  with  Moses,  and  in  a  prophecy  refer- 
ring to  Moab,  in  Isaiah,  which  is  repeated  in  Jeremiah 
(Dent,  xxxiv.,  3 ;  Isa.  xv.,  5 ;  Jer.  xlviii.,  34). 

Still  further,  with  reference  to  the  site  of  Zoar,  Dr. 
Robinson,  in  "  Note  xxxv.,"  has  collected  a  number  of 
references  bearing  on  this  question,  and  he  is  confident 
that  Zoar  should  be  located  at  the  south  end  of  the 
Dead  Sea.  Dr.  Wolcott,  in  his  article  in  the  '^  BibUotheca 
Sacra,"  1860,  and  also  in  his  additions  to  the  American 
edition  of  Smith's  "Bible  Dictionary"  (see  art.  "Zoar"), 
holds  the  same  view. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  arguments  for  placing  the  Zoar 
of  Lot  at  the  north  end  of  the  Dead  Sea  are  to  us  con- 
vincing. 

That  there  was,  however,  a  Zoar  at  the  south  end  of  the 
Dead  Sea,  we  do  not  pretend  to  deny.  The  repetition  of 
names  of  places  in  Palestine  is  a  fact  of  such  frequent 
occurrence  that  the  theory  of  there  having  been  two  Zoars 
cannot  be  regarded  as  improbable.  Robinson  has  collected 
from  ^Titers  of  the  crusading  times  several  references  to 
a  city  called  Segor,  south  of  the  Dead  Sea.  But,  while 
Ptolemy  speaks  of  a  Zoar  in  Arabia  Petraea,  Stephen  of 


238  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Byzantium  speaks  of  one  in  Palestine.  Josephus's  phrase 
is  also  peculiar  :  *'  Zoar  of  Arabia  "  (''  Wars,''  iv.,  8,  4),  as 
if  lie  would  distinguish  it  from  another  place  of  the  same 
name.  As  the  term  Ai"abia  was  sometimes  applied  to  the 
whole  country  east  of  the  Jordan,  and  sometimes  (in 
Josephus)  to  the  country  bordering  upon  the  Dead  Sea 
on  the  east,  it  does  not  necessarily  follow  that  by  ''Zoar 
of  Arabia  "  he  meant  some  place  south  of  the  Dead  Sea, 
although  this  is  probable. 

We  present  here  a  few  quotations  from  Arab  writers, 
which  bear  upon  this  question : 

Abulfeda  quotes  from  Ibn  Hakel,  and  apparently  adopts 
as  his  own,  the  following  statement :  "  And  from  the  stink- 
ing [Dead]  Sea  and  Zoar  to  Beisan  and  Tiberias,  it  is  called 
the  Ghor,  for  it  is  between  two  mountains.  All  the  land 
of  Syria  is  elevated  above  it,  and  some  of  it  belongs  to 
the  Jordan  and  some  to  Palestine."    He  adds  further : 

"  Ibn  Hakel  says :  '  The  Ghor  has  its  beginning  at  the 
Sea  of  Tiberias,  and  then  extends  by  Beisan  until  it  ends 
at  Zoar  and  Jericho  at  the  Dead  Sea.  Then  it  extends  also 
to  Aileh ' "  (p.  8). 

In  one  of  these  passages,  the  Jordan  valley  is  traced 
northward,  and  in  the  other,  southward.  The  phrases, 
"from  the  Dead  Sea  and  Zoar,"  and  ^'ends  at  Zoar  and 
Jericho,"  seem  certainly  to  imply  that  Zoar  was  at  the 
north  end  of  the  Dead  Sea.  That  was  the  situation  of 
Zoar  as  well  as  of  Jericho.  Again,  Abulfeda  says :  "  And 
the  Belka,  one  of  the  districts  of  the  Sherat,  is  fertile. 
The  capital  of  the  Belka  is  Husban.  This  is  a  little  town. 
Husban  has  a  valley  of  trees,  and  gardens,  and  planted 
fields  ;  and  this  valley  is  joined  to  the  Ghor  of  Zoar.  The 
Belka  is  a  [day's]  journey  from  Jericho  "  (p.  11). 

As  the  valley  which  descends  from  Hasban  enters  the 
Jordan  valley  some  miles  north  of  the  Dead  Sea,  the  j^lain 


LOWER  JOBBAN   VALLEY.  239 

of  Zoar  must  be  there  also.  Ibn  ul  Wardi  says:  '^  *  *  *  and 
fi'om  Jaffa  to  Zoar  (in  width  or  longitude),  which  is  the 
city  of  the  people  of  Lot,  and  the  sea  by  it  is  called  the 
stinking  sea,  and  from  it  to  Beisan  and  Tiberias  is  called 
the  Ghor,  for  it  is  a  plain  between  two  mountains  "  (p.  178). 

Edrisi  says  :  *'  And  the  towns  of  the  people  of  Lot,  and 
the  Dead  Sea,  and  Zoar,  to  Beisan  and  Tiberias,  is  called 
the  Ghor,  for  it  is  a  plain  between  two  mountains  "  (p.  3). 
"  And  in  it  are  small  ships  in  which  one  can  travel  in  that 
part,  and  bear  the  crops,  and  fruits  of  various  kinds  from 
Zoar  to  Jericho  and  the  rest  of  the  portions  of  the  Ghor  " 
fihid.,  p.  4).  He  is  speaking  of  the  Dead  Sea,  and  implies 
that  the  small  "  ships  "  went  also  on  the  Jordan. 

In  all  these  passages,  Zoar  seems  to  be  placed  at  the 
north  end  of  the  Dead  Sea.  The  fact  of  boats  plying  on 
the  Lower  Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea  itself,  is  an  interest- 
ing one. 


Note. — My  observations  on  the  site  of  the  Cities  of  the  Plain,  cor- 
responding in  the  main  to  what  I  have  stated  in  this  chapter,  were 
prepared  by  me  early  in  the  summer  of  1876,  and  read  to  the  Advisory 
Committee  of  the  American  Palestine  Exploration  Society,  in  Beirut. 
They  were,  in  the  course  of  that  summer,  published  in  the  London 
"Athenseum,"  in  the  New  York  "Evangelist"  and  "Independent," 
also  in  the  New  York  Daily  "Times,"  and  in  other  leading  journals 
in  Boston,  Chicago,  and  San  Francisco.  They  have  been  quoted  also 
by  various  writers,  among  whom  may  be  mentioned  Rev.  Wm.  M. 
Thomson,  D.  D.,  who,  in  his  new  edition  of  "  The  Land  and  the  Book." 
has  adopted  them  almost  entire. 


Tombstone  of  a   Bedawin   Sheikh.      From    near    Hasban. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


Mount  Nebo. 


'Ain  Hasban.  Abundance  of  fossils.  Arab  graveyard  and  tomb- 
stone. SheiMi  'Ali  Diab.  Boys  and  toy  music-boxes.  View  from 
Hasban  over  the  Belka.  'Ayim  Musa.  The  site  of  Nebo.  Was 
"Pisgah"  a  particular  summit?  Visitors  to  the  region.  Due 
de  Luynes  and  Dr.  Tristram.  Some  recent  statements  concerning 
Pisgah  examined.  Callirrhoe.  Hot  springs.  Columnar  basalt. 
Did  Herod  the  Great  visit  these  springs  ?  The  grakle  and  other 
birds.  Ruins  at  Madeba.  Reservoii-.  Herds  of  camels.  Camp 
at  Abu  Nugla. 


Camp  at  'Avt-N  M^sa,  or  Fountains  of  Moses, 
Tuesday,  April  11.  1876. 

WE  moved  our  camp  to  'Ain  Hasban  early  Monday 
morning,  and  spent  'the  day  iu  visiting  El  'Al, 
Hasban,  and  other  places  in  the  vicinity.  I  collected  a  good 
many  fossils,  which  abound  in  the  limestone  rock  in  the 
region,  and  also  copied  a  curious  epitaph,  from  the  tomb  of  a 
sheikh  in  a  Bedawin  graveyard  in  the  valley  near  our  camp. 
The  symbols,  consisting  of  a  mortar  and  pestle,  a  coffee- 
I'oaster,  pitcher,  and  cups,  are  said  to  signify  hospitality. 
Grass  in  the  mountain  is  now  abundant,  and  the  flocks 


MOUNT  NEBO.  241 

are  numerous.  The  Belka  is  almost  covered  with  Arabs 
and  cattle,  and  along  Wady  Hasban  near  the  fountain 
the  stream  is  lined  with  black  tents. 

Sheikh  'ALL  Diab  came  to  see  us,  as  did  also  Goblan, 
and  they  urged  us  to  attend  a  feast,  which  occurred  in 
due  form  in  the  evening.  I  gave  'Ali  Diab's  little  boy, 
named  Sultan,  a  toy  music-box,  and  another  to  Goblan's 
youngest  boy,  seven  years  old,  whose  name  is  Abd  el 
Aziz,  the  name  of  a  former  famous  sheikh  connected 
with  this  tribe.  When  they  had  received  these  presents, 
they  ran  about  among  the  black  tents,  stumbled  over  the 
goats  that  were  about  the  camp,  set  aU  the  dogs  to  bark- 
ing, and  made  all  the  children  and  even  the  older  people 
very  much  excited  by  the  strange  noise  they  created  with 
their  new  playthings.  They  were  very  proud  of  them,  and 
even  their  fathers,  the  sheikhs  themselves,  seemed  almost 
as  much  delighted  as  the  children. 

Fahed,  one  of  Goblan's  sons,  has  been  one  of  our  best 
guides.  He  is  a  young,  reckless  fellow,  but  knows  the 
roads  thoroughly,  and  where  all  the  Ai-abs  are  located,  as 
though  he  were  a  policeman,  and  has  devoted  his  whole 
time  to  serving  us.  From  all  I  learn,  and  from  some  things 
he  has  told  us  himself,  I  judge  that  he  is  regarded  as  a  good 
"raider"  by  the  people  of  his  tribe,  and  that  he  knows 
how  to  take  off  sheep  and  cattle  belonging  to  an  enemy, 
in  the  most  skilful  fashion. 

The  \dew  from  the  ruins  of  Hasban  over  the  wide  Belka 
plain  is  very  fine.  The  fields  are  rich,  the  groups  of  tents 
are  numerous,  and  in  the  distance  are  the  gi-eat  encamp- 
ments of  the  Beni  Sakhr.  The  mountains  of  Nebo,  the 
ruins  of  Madeba,  M'ain,  Ziza,  El  'Al,  and  other  places,  are 
in  sight,  and  the  size  of  the  flocks  and  herds  of  sheep,  goats, 
cattle,  and  camels  is  surprising.  The  weather  here  is  cool 
compared  with  what  we  have  experienced  in  the  Jordan 
11 


242 


EAST   OF   THE   JOBBAN. 


valley.  The  thermometer  to-day  indicated  50°  at  6.30 
A.  M.,  69°  at  12  M.,  at  the  ruin  on  the  summit  above  us, 
called  Jebel  Musa  or  Jebel  Siaghah,  and  60°  at  6  P.  M.  in 
our  camp ;  but  the  atmosphere  is  perfectly  clear  and  every 
remote  object  is  sharply  defined.  We  have  spent  consider- 
able time  on  the  hiUs  above  our  camp,  examining  the 
ground  and  noting  the  views  from  the  different  points. 
Oui'  American  friends  expressed  themselves  as   greatly 


Ayun    Musa,   or   Fountains  of  Moses.      [From    Due  de   Luynes.] 


pleased  with  their  visit  to  this  region,  and  especially  to 
Mount  Nebo.  As  they  did  not  contemplate  going  farther 
with  us,  they  will  return  to  Jericho  to-morrow,  lender  the 
escort  of  one  or  more  of  oiu*  Arabs. 

This  beautiful  fountain  and  waterfall  at  'Ayun  Musa  are 
very  attractive,  and  there  are  here  a  good  many  Arab  tents. 


While  we  are  in  this  interesting  region,  some  suggestions 
may  be  offered  with  regard  to  the  Bible  names  of  Abarim, 
Nebo,  and  Pisgah : 


MOUNT  NEBO.  243 

Abarim  is  mentioned  in  the  Bible  four  times  alone  (Nnmb. 
xsvii.,  12 ;  xxxiii.,  47,  48 ;  Dent,  xxxii.,  49),  and  twice  in 
connection  with  Ije  (Nnmb.  xxi.,  11 ;  xxxiii.,  44),  The 
indications  given  do  not  allow  ns  to  snppose  that  the  same 
place  is  referred  to.  If  these  last  verses  are  classed  by 
themselves,  we  have  good  reason  for  considering  that  all 
the  passages  where  Abarim  is  mentioned  alone  refer  to  the 
range  of  mountains  east  of  the  Dead  Sea,  which  stretches 
southward  from  Wady  Hasban.  Towards  the  north  end  of 
this  range,  scholars  are  pretty  well  agreed  that  Nebo  and 
Pisgah  should  be  sought,  Jebel  Neba,  at  the  extreme 
north  end  of  the  range,  appears  to  correspond  to  Nebo.  As 
to  Pisgah,  scholars  are  yet  undecided  whether  it  should  be 
regarded  as  a  proper  name,  although  it  has  passed  into  the 
literature  of  Christendom  as  such.  The  word  occurs  four 
times  alone  (Numb,  xxi.,  20 ;  xxiii.,  14 ;  Dent,  iii.,  27 ;  xxxiv., 
1),  and  foui'  times  in  connection  with  Ash  doth  (Dent,  iii., 
17;  iv.,  49;  Josh,  xii.,  3;  xiii.,,20).  As  to  Ashdoth  itself, 
besides  the  four  cases  just  noted,  it  is  used  in  the  Bible  but 
twice  (Josh,  x,,  40 ;  xii.,  8),  unless  we  include  "  ashed,"  a 
word  from  the  same  root,  meaning  a  stream,  which,  how- 
ever, occurs  but  once  (Numb,  xxi.,  15). 

In  the  four  cases  where  Pisgah  occiu's  in  connection  with 
Ashdoth,  the  latter  word  is  translated  "  springs"  in  one  case 
in  the  English  version,  and  in  the  three  other  cases  it  is 
simply  transferred.  In  the  four  cases  where  Pisgah  stands 
alone,  the  formula  in  each  case  is  napsn  tcxn,  top  or  summit 
of  Pisgah. 

In  the  four  cases  where  Pisgah  occurs  alone,  the  Septu- 
agint  renders  it  as  a  proper  name  only  in  a  single  instance. 
In  the  four  cases  where  the  word  is  used  in  combination 
with  Ashdoth,  the  Septuagint  renders  it  as  a  proper  name 
three  times.  Where  its  use  is  thus  divided,  it  is  difficult 
to  discover  what  the  real  intention  was,  unless  we  regard 


2U  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

the  instances  where  the  word  stands  alone  as  the  more 
important  test.  This  we  are  incHned  to  consider  as  the 
correct  method. 

If  Pisgah  was  a  proper  name,  nsed  of  a  well-known 
mountain  summit  that  was  sacred  to  the  Hebrew  nation, 
the  Targums  ought  to  throw  some  light  upon  its  use.  But 
in  four  Targums,  namely,  Onkelos,  Jonathan  ben  Uzziel, 
Jonathan  (known  also  as  Pseudo-Jonathan  or  Palestinian), 
and  Jerusalem,  the  word  "  Pisgah/'  whether  occurring  (in 
the  Bible)  alone  or  in  combination  with  Ashdoth,  is  uni- 
formly rendered  "  hill,"  except  in  one  instance  where 
"  ashes  "  is  substituted  for  it. 

On  the  other  hand,  with  regard  to  Nebo,  the  four  Tar- 
gums now  mentioned  generally  retain  the  name.  This 
includes  Jonathan  ben  Uzziel,  on  Isa.  xv.,  2 ;  and  Jer.  xlviii., 
1,  22.  For  three  of  the  places  in  the  Pentateuch,  where 
Nebo  occurs  in  the  Bible,  there  is  no  Jerusalem  Targum 
extant.  Pseudo-Jonathan,,  in  three  places.  Numb,  xxxii.,  3, 
38,  47,  has  substituted  for  Nebo,  ''  place  of  the  burial  of 
Moses."  The  only  substitution  in  Onkelos  is  in  Numb. 
xxxii.,  3,  when  we  have  "  Seath,  the  place  of  the  bimal  of 
Moses,''  niuicn  xn-^ia;^  rr'a  riy-'p.     Otherwise  Nebo  is  retained. 

If  Nebo  and  Pisgah  were  both  proper  names,  the  reten- 
tion of  one  and  the  entire  disappearance  of  the  other,  as 
now  shown,  is  a  remarkable  circumstance. 

The  great  interest  centred  in  Nebo  has  led  many  travel- 
lers into  this  region  in  the  endeavor  to  ascertain  its  site. 
Among  these,  without  attempting  a  complete  Hst,  may  be 
mentioned  De  Saulc}^  and  party  in  1863,  Due  de  Luynes 
and  party  in  1864,  a  few  days  later  than  Due  de  LujTies 
the  Rev.  H.  B.  Tristram  and  party;  Captain  Charles  Warren 
and  party  in  1867,  the  Rev.  E.  A.  Northey  and  party 
in  1871,  the  Rev.  Dr.  H.  B.  Tristram  (his  second  visit) 
and  party  in   1872,  the  fii"st  expedition  of  the  American 


MOUNT  NEBO.  245 

Exploration  Society  in  1873,  and  the  Rev.  Dr.  James 
Strong  and  party  in  1874. 

As  most  of  the  parties  here  named  have  made  reports 
of  their  observations,  it  would  seem  as  if  some  definite  con- 
elusions  might  now  be  arrived  at.  But  there  is  considerable 
diversity  in  the  testimony  of  these  different  witnesses,  and 
in  fact  rival  claimants  for  certain  discoveries  have  sprung 
up,  so  that  there  is  not  only  doubt,  but  a  good  deal  of  dis- 
pute, as  to  how  much  is  actually  known  at  present  of  the 
BibUcal  Nebo  and  Pisgah. 

With  regard  to  the  names  Nebo  and  Pisgah,  I  have  taken 
special  pains  to  examine  several  Arabs  at  different  times  as 
to  the  present  names  of  the  hiUs  to  the  south  of  'Ayun 
Musa.  One  who  lives  in  this  neighborhood  gave  only  the 
names  "  Jebel  Neba  "  and  "  Jebel  Miisa,"  but  when  the  ques- 
tion was  put  to  him  directly  as  to  a  Jebel  "  Siaghah,"  he  knew 
no  such  name.  Another  witness  said  that  the  whole  group 
of  hiUs  was  called  "Jebel  Neba"  and  sometimes  "Jebel 
Siaghah."  Still,  on  another  occasion,  another,  who  lives 
near  tliis  mountain,  gave  "  Jebel  Neba  "  as  the  name  of  the 
east  end  of  the  ridge,  and  "  Jebel  Siaghah  "  as  the  name  of 
the  group  forming  the  middle  and  western  end  of  the  ridge. 
He  proceeded  of  his  own  accord  to  give  us  the  following 
information  :  "  Formerly,"  said  he,  "  we  called  all  this  ridge 
Jebel  Neba,  or  Jebel  Musa,  and  sometimes  Jebel  Siaghah ; 
but  for  ten  or  fifteen  years  past  a  great  many  Franghis 
have  been  here  and  have  asked  about  Nebo  and  Fisgah 
[they  use  /  for  p\,  and  we  have  decided  among  ourselves 
to  call  the  east  end  Jebel  Neba,  and  the  middle  and  west 
end  Jebel  Siaghah."  Still  another  intelligent  Arab  gave 
us  suljstantially  the  same  account  as  that  just  narrated. 

In  De  Saulcy's  map  there  is,  I  am  told  (for  I  have  not 
seen  it),  a  ruin  marked  ''  Khirbet  Siara."  Due  de  Luynes 
in  1864,  Dr.  Tristram  in  the  same  year.  Captain  Warren 


246 


EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 


ill  1807,  and  Mr.  Northey  in  1871,  aU  made  examinations 
of  this  locality,  but  none  of  them  brought  away  the  name 
*'  Siaghah,"  or  any  name  corresponding  to  it.  In  1872,  Dr. 
Tristram  made  his  second  visit  to  this  region,  and  found 

the  name  Ziara  (which  he  writes  l^yS'j)  applied  to  the 
ruin  on  the  summit  just  south  of  'Ayun  Musa.  In  1873, 
however,  Rev.  John  A.  Paine  claims  to  have  "discovered" 


,*^=iS^^^5S??!=S.t>:SiBt^.,-?  . 


•^"0-^:;^■^:^'^? 


Ruins    on    Jebel    Musa.      [From    Due    de    Luynes.] 

the  name  "  Siaghah,"  with  the  prefixes  "Jebel"  and  "  Ras," 
appHed  to  the  three  western  of  what  he  caUs  "five  flat 
summits  "  which  compose  this  group  of  hiUs. 

These  facts  give  the  history  of  this  name  during  ten 
years,  or  from  1863  to  1873.  This  history  is  significant, 
and  appears  to  confirm  the  account  of  the  name  "  Siaghah," 
as  given  by  the  Arab  already  (pioted. 

Mr.  Paine  makes  the  lowest  and  most  western  of  his  "  five 
flat  summits  "  to  be  the  Pisgah  of  Moses.     The  most  prom- 


MOUNT  NEBO.  247 

inent  summit  directly  south,  of  'Ayiiu  Miisa  is  called  by 
Due  de  Luynes  Jebel  Musa,  and  is  covered  with  ruins,  of 
which  wc  give  an  illustration  taken  from  his  photograph. 
The  place  may  have  been  one  of  importance,  although  there 
are  no  means  of  determining  this;  but  the  existing  ruins 
certainly  belong  to  a  late  period. 

The  summit  which  Mr.  Paine  has  chosen  for  his  Pisgah 
is  lower  than  this  ruin  summit,  and  is  distant  from  it  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  a  south-west  direction.  Due  de  Luynes, 
on  the  contrary,  went  from  this  ruin  summit  to  one  more 
elevated,  which  he  would  regard  as  Pisgah.  This  point, 
judging  from  his  own  map,  was,  from  the  ruin  summit, 
east  of  south,  and  distant  from  it  nearly  one  mile.  Thus 
there  is  a  serious  discrepancy  between  the  accounts  of 
these  two  observers ;  and  the  one  who  has  chosen  the 
highest  point  and  the  most  commanding  outlook  is,  no 
doubt,  in  the  right.* 

*  A  number  of  artieles  have  appeared  on  the  subject  of  Pisgah  in 
various  English  and  American  publications,  but  those  on  this  side 
of  the  Atlantic  which  discuss  the  subject  most  fully  are  the  third 
statement  of  the  American  Exploration  Society,  entitled  "Identifi- 
cation of  Mount  Pisgah,"  by  Rev.  John  A.  Paine,  of  Tarrytown, 
N.  Y. ;  the  "  Bibliotheca  Sacra"  for  1876,  in  "A  Review  of  the 
Identification  of  Mount  Pisgah,"  by  Rev.  Thomas  Laui'ie,  D.  D.,  of 
Providence,  R.  I.;  McClintock  and  Strong's  "Biblical  Cyclopsedia," 
in  the  articles  "  Nebo  "  and  "Pisgah";  and  the  "Independent,"  a 
weekly  newspaper  publislied  in  New  York,  which,  during  the  year 
1879,  contained  a  discussion  of  the  subject  by  Rev.  Joliu  A.  Paine 
on  one  side,  and  Rev.  Samuel  Wolcott,  D.  D,,  of  Cleveland,  Ohio,  on 
the  other. 

Mr.  Paine  claims  in  the  most  confident  manner  that  he  is  the  discov- 
erer of  the  name  "  Siaghah,"  and  he  is  certain  that  he  finds  in  it  a 
relic  of  Pisgah  of  tlie  Bible.  To  give  his  own  language,  he  was  "  the 
first  to  discover  the  name  of  this  extreme  point,  and  to  perceive  in  it 
a  survival  of  the  word  Pisgah."  Letter,  "Independent,"  January  10, 
1878  ;  and  see  "Identification,"  p.  19.  Also,  "  that  Siaghah  was  the 
survival  of  Pisgah  flashed  on  my  mind  the  moment  it  fell  first  on  my 
ears"  {Ihid.,  p.  37).  But  the  name  was  already  marked  in  De  Saulcy's 
map. 


248  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Camp  at  Abu  Nugla,  Friday,  April  14,  1876. 

Dm-ing  the  last  three  days  we  liave  visited  the  Nebo 
region  again,  also  M'ain,  where  we  spent  two  nights,  the 
hot  springs  of  Callirrhoe,  Madeba,  and  several  other 
ruins  on  the  plain  to  the  south  of  ns.  One  of  the  hot 
springs  at  Callirrhoe,  which  I  tested,  was  47i°  Reaumur 
(59°  C,  139°  F.) ;  but  my  thermometer,  with  which  I  pro- 
vided myself  in  Jerusalem  for  this  special  purpose,  was 
accidentally  broken,  and  I  could  do  no  further  work  of  the 
kind.  I  brought  away  for  analysis  three  bottles  of  water 
from  as  many  different  springs.  Van  Dyck,  Henry  Thom- 
son, and  myself  attempted  to  reach  the  Dead  Sea,  but, 

or  De  Saulcy,  he  says  that  he  followed  out  his  directions  to  his 
"unbounded  disappointment,"  and  that  "the  work  of  De  Sauley  was 
quickly  thrown  aside  as  affording  no  aid  whatsoever  "  (p.  19  and  note). 
He  asserts:  "It  is  extremely  doubtful  that  M.  De  Saulcy  saw  Jebel 
Neba"  (p.  G).  He  thinks  De  Saulcy  mistook  the  rise  on  which  the 
tomb  of  Abdullah  stands  for  Neba  or  Nebo.  "It  is  not  impossible," 
he  says,  "  that  this  name  Nebi  was  given  in  reply  to  M.  De  Saulcy's 
question,  who  heard  it  as  Neba,  and  thought  the  height  a  Jebel " 
(p.  7). 

Dr.  Tristram's  book  was  thrown  aside,  "  as  affording  no  aid  whatso- 
ever" (p.  19,  note).  He  claims  that  Dr.  Tristram  did  not  see  'Ayiiu 
Musa,  but  only  the  Ras  el  'Ain  of  Hasban  and  'Ain  Fudaili  (p.  11, 
note),  and  even  goes  so  far  as  to  assert  of  Tristram,  that  his  "  whole 
description  must  have  been  written  up  by  the  doctor  after  he  had 
reached  his  north-country  home,  and  then  as  a  birdseye  view  of  Pales- 
tine" (p.  15). 

Speaking  of  the  Due  de  Luynes's  map,  which  has  Jebel  Musa  south 
of  'Ayun  Musa,  he  says:  "It  is  therefore  to  be  inferred  that  the  duke 
passed  over  Jebel  Neba,  either  without  knowing  its  real  name  or  pre- 
ferring to  transfer  the  name  of  the  fountains  to  the  mountain  itself. 
It  is  quite  likely  that  he  suppressed  the  real  name,  Jebel  Neba,  simply 
because  M.  De  Saulcy  had  found  it  before  him,  and  endeavored  to 
substitute  a  term  of  his  own,  Jebel  Musa,  as  the  Arabic  name  of  the 
mountain"  (p.  9). 

Captain  Charles  Warren  had  said,  speaking  of  the  locality  in 
question,  "It  did  not  commend  itself  in  my  mind  as  Pisgah."  Mr. 
Paine  replies,  "  that  either  Captain  Warren  must  have  failed,  through 


MOUNT  NEBO.  249 

after  going  for  two  hours,  and  becoming  terribly  exhausted 
with  the  heat  and  a  strange  sense  of  depression,  we  found 
our  time  would  not  be  sufficient,  even  if  our  strength 
should  hold  out,  and  we  returned.  It  was  a  rough,  hard 
scramble.  Of  the  valley  and  the  springs  here,  the  best 
description  is  that  given  by  Dr.  H.  B.  Tristram  in  his 
"Land  of  Moab."  This  gorge,  or  chasm,  is  wild  in  the 
extreme.  The  river  deep  down  in  the  earth,  the  hot 
springs  steaming  and  dashing  from  the  mountain-side, 
the  masses  of  rock,  and  the  strange,  columnar  basaltic 
formation  rising  several  hundred  feet  on  the  opposite 
bank ;  these  things,  together  with  the  oppressive  heat, 
combine  to  make  this  place  luiique. 

atmospheric  causes,  to  obtain  a  good  view  at  the  time  when  he 
says  he  was  on  that  spot,  or  his  memory  has  failed  him  of  what 
he  saw  at  that  time"  (Letter  ii.,  col.  1,  "Independent,"  March 
13,  1879). 

With  respect  to  the  name,  Mr.  Paine  says,  "  I  heard  Siaghah  on  its 
native  ground  long  before  the  Arabs  began  to  accommodate  foreigners 
with  names  wanted"  (Letter  v.,  col.  2,  "Independent,"  April  24, 
1879).  We  have  seen  that  De  Saidcy  and  party  were  there  in  1863, 
Due  de  Luynes  and  party  in  1864,  Dr.  Tristram  and  party  in  1864, 
Captain  Warren  and  party  in  1867,  Mr.  Northey  and  party  in  1871, 
Dr.  Tristram  and  his  second  party  in  1872.  Here  are  six  parties  of 
competent  obsei'vers,  all  eager  to  obtain  what  facts  they  could  with 
regard  to  Nebo  and  Pisgah,  who  visited  the  region  before  Mr.  Paine 
was  there,  in  1873.  Of  these  De  Saulcy  frankly  speaks  of  "questions 
a  hundred  times  repeated"  by  himself  with  regard  to  Pisgah  ("Voy- 
age en  Terre  Sainte,"  p.  392). 

Dr.  Wolcott,  in  the  papers  referred  to  in  the  "  Independent,"  has 
gone  over  the  subject  with  great  care,  and  shown  that  what  Mr.  Paine 
calls  his  "Pisgah  theory"  has  no  valid  arguments  in  its  favor.  He 
also  brings  out  clearly  the  fact,  which  we  have  already  indicated,  that 
Due  de  Luynes's  testimony  is  directly  opposed  to  that  of  Mr.  Paine, 
although  the  latter  claims  the  duke  as  supporting  his  theory. 

As  to  the  name  "  Siaghah,"  it  is  an  Arabic  word  in  common  iise  on 
the  west  of  the  Jordan  in  connection  with  goldsmiths,  and  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  understand  how,  on  the  east  of  the  Joi'dan,  it  should  be,  as  Mr. 
Paine  claims,  a  relic  of  the  long-lost  Pisgah.  It  may  be  added  that  the 
writer  of  the  article  on  Pisgah  in  McClintock  and  Strong's  Cyclopgedia 
11* 


250  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

We  were  just  four  hours  in  going  from  M'ain  to  Cal- 
lirrhoe,  and  the  same  time  in  returning.  The  retem  shrub 
grows  in  this  region  very  abundantly,  and  is  of  a  larger 
size  than  farther  north ;  in  the  valley  are  numerous  palm- 
trees,  but  most  of  them  are  small. 

There  are  along  the  route  in  certain  places  several  lines 
of  stones.  If  there  were  only  two  lines,  and  these  near 
each  other,  and  parallel,  or  nearly  so,  one  might  regard 
them  as  indicating  an  ancient  road.  But  sometimes  there 
are  more  than  two,  and,  again,  the  lines  appear  to  enclose 
a  field  rather  than  bound  a  thoroughfare.  So  far  as  we 
observed,  there   are  no   remains  in  the  valley  at  or  near 

states  that  Mr.  Paine's  "attempt  to  trace  the  name  Pisgah  in  the 
modern  Siaghah  is  an  obvious  faihire"  (vol.  viii.,  p.  234,  col.  2). 

Furthermore,  if  we  examine  the  word  "Pisgah,"  we  find  that  the 
root  word  from  which  it  is  derived  is  used  but  once  in  the  Bible. 
Hence  it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  its  exact  meaning.  The  instance 
referred  to  is  found  in  Ps.  xlviii.,  14  [Eng.  vei'sion,  13],  jntsgii,  an 
imper.  pi.  of  the  Piel,  and  is  rendered  in  our  Bible,  ^'  eonsuJer  her  pal- 
aces"; margin,  ^^  raise  tip  her  palaces."  Alexander  renders  it  "  cxrtw- 
ine  her  palaces  "  ;  Hupfeld,  "  walk  throiu/h  her  palaces." 

The  verb  is  used  in  the  Aramaic  where  it  means  to  divide,  or  sepa- 
rate. Even  if  this  meaning  were  can'ied  back  to  the  Hebrew,  not  much 
light  would  be  thrown  upon  the  single  use  of  the  word  in  the  Psalms. 
The  Biblical  word  "  pisgah,"  with  final  alvph  for  he,  occurs  in  the 
Aramaic,  where  it  means  piece  or  portion.  So  long  as  this  word  existed, 
it  is  strange,  as  we  have  before  indicated,  that  none  of  the  Targtims 
have  used  it  of  Pisgah  of  the  Bible,  if  this  had  really  been  regarded  as 
a  proper  name. 

During  the  different  visits  which  we  made  to  this  locality,  we  had  the 
advantage  of  imusiially  clear  weather,  and  took  special  pains  to  note 
objects  and  points  of  interest,  both  near  and  remote.  It  seems  to  us 
much  more  appropriate  to  select  the  highest  part  of  the  mountain  as 
the  probable  poiut  to  which  Moses  ascended,  than  one  a  mile  and  a 
half  to  the  west  and  more  than  three  hundred  feet  lower  than  that, 
where  the  new  theory  seeks  to  place  it.  Moreover,  we  consider  tliat 
this  is  imperatively  demanded  by  the  Biblical  statements  in^  which 
Moses  is  directed  to  go  "  to  Mount  Nebo,"  to  the  "top  of  the  hill," 
el-har-neho,  rosh-hai)-pisgah  (Dent,  xxxiv.,  1), — phrases  which  are  in  ap- 
position, and  hence  designating  nothing  else  than  the  summit  of  Nebo. 


MOUNT  NEBO.  251 

the  springs,  such  as  one  would  expect  from  the  fame 
which  this  place  enjoyed  in  ancient  times.  Bvit  as  to  the 
valley,  I  judge  that  its  appearance  has  been  changed  some- 
what by  earthquakes,  and  it  is  possible,  of  course,  for  any 
ruins  that  may  have  existed  to  have  become  covered. 
It  is  reported  by  Josephus  ("Antiquities,"  xvii.,  6,  5; 
''Wars,"  i.,  33,  6)  that  Herod  the  Great  visited  these  springs 
during  his  last  illness  while  at  Jericho.  It  would  take 
a  well  person  fifteen  or  sixteen  hours  to  make  the  same 
journey  now,  and  it  would  be  a  very  fatiguing  one. 
Chmbing  the  mountains  of  Moab  from  the  Shittim  plain, 
and  descending  them  again  from  some  point  near  M'ain, 
to  reach  CaUu-rhoe,  would  be  difficult,  especially  along  the 
latter  part  of  the  route.  He  could  have  been  carried  in 
a  litter,  but  this  would  have  required  two  fuU  days,  and 
in  his  weak  condition  it  is  not  easy  to  imderstand  how  he 
had  strength  to  endure  it.  There  were  at  that  time  boats 
on  the  Dead  Sea,  and  he  could  have  been  carried  in  one 
of  these  to  the  mouth  of  Wady  Zerka  M'ain,  and  thence 
taken  up  to  the  springs ;  but  Josephus  expressly  states 
that  he  crossed  the  Jordan,  and  as  there  were  hot  springs 
opposite  Jericho  at  Tell  el  Hammam,  and  as  the  ruins 
about  them  show  that  they  were  utilized  as  a  pleasure 
resort,  it  is  not  unreasonable  to  suppose  that  Herod  visited 
these  springs,  instead  of  making  the  terrible  journey  to 
the  distant  springs  of  Callirrhoe.  . 

We  saw  partridges,  quails,  gazelles,  and  the  beautiful 
grakle  which  are  found  in  thesQ  lonely  and  barren  wadies 
about  the  Dead  Sea ;  but  of  birds  of  other  kinds  we  saw 
only  a  very  few.  The  last  night  which  we  spent  at  M'ain, 
we  really  suffered  ^\dth  the  cold.  The  contrast  between 
the  atmosphere  at  this  place  and  the  hot,  depressing  air  of 
the  vaUey  at  the  springs  was  very  great.  At  M'ain,  the 
thermometer  showed  -440  at  6.30  A,  M.,  and  this  evening. 


252  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

at  Abu  Nfigla,  it  showed  53^'  at  6  P.  M.  Tlie  distance  from 
M'ain  to  oiu'  j^i'esent  camp  is  four  hours  aud  thirty  minutes. 
The  ruins  of  Madeba  indicate  that  it  has  been  an  impor- 
tant place,  and  the  remains  of  a  church  still  exist.  At 
the  west  end  of  it  are  two  columns  yet  standing,  and  at 
the  east  end  is  a  large  apse.  South-east  of  this  church  is 
a  large  reservou-,  three  hundred  and  twelve  by  three  hun- 
dred and  thirty  feet  in  size,  with  walls  twelve  feet  thick. 
The  average  depth  was  fifteen  feet,  unless  it  has  been 
filled  in  somewhat,  which  is  not  uufrequently  the  case 
with  these  old  reservoirs.  At  the  south-east  comer  the 
wall  was  twenty  feet  high.  The  east  wall,  in  which 
direction  the  ground  falls  off  sHghtly,  is  supported  by  a 
massive  embankment,  showing  that  the  engineers  who 
constructed  it  intended  that  their  work  should  be  durable. 
In  the  town  I  saw  a  reservoir  that  had  been  roofed  over, 
which  was  thirty  feet  deep,  and  still  another  which  was 
one  hundred  feet  in  one  direction;  but  in  the  other  direction 
it  could  not  be  measured,  as  it  had  been  covered  by  fallen 
ruins.  Besides  these  reservoirs  the  place  had  numerous 
cisterns,  as  is  the  case  with  most  of  these  ruined  towns. 
The  ruins  here  occupy  a  low  hiU,  and  the  country  about 
it  for  a  considerable  distance  is  level;  there  are  many 
columns,  capitals,  bevelled  stones,  and  Hntels,  and  in 
one  portion  there  appears  to  have  been  a  long  street 
lined  with  columns.  We  passed  three  great  herds  of 
camels,  numbering  many  thousands,  the  first  of  which 
covered  the  plain  for  three  or  four  miles.  They  all  seemed 
to  be  moving  from  west  to  east,  in  a  shallow  valley  or 
depressed  portion  of  the  plain,  called  Beit  Zara.  There 
were  many  fine  fields;  these  slope  to  the  east,  and  at 
some  distance  from  us  there  were  a  multitude  of  the  tents 
of  the  Beni  Sakhr.  Near  our  camp  is  a  fine  well  of  water, 
and  hence  the  plain  is  much  frequented. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

On  the  Upper  Zerka,  or  Jabbok. 

Family  quaiTels  among  the  Arabs.  Chase  for  a  fox.  Rmned  towns. 
Flocks  and  herds.  QuaiTies.  Roman  road.  Game  scarce.  A  plough 
for  firewood.  Arab  instinct  for  direction.  M'Shita.  Was  it  built  by 
Chosroes  11.  ?  A  Sabbath  at  Amman  or  Philadelphia.  Greek  church. 
Temple.  Citadel.  Battle  of  Antiochus  the  Great.  Street  lined  with 
columns.  Was  this  Balaam's  country?  The  Upper  Zerka.  Kulat 
Zerka.     Fountains.     Oleanders.     Ancient  ruin.     Eavens'  nests. 

Camp  at  Kulat  Zekka,  Monday,  April  17,  1876. 

SATURDAY,  the  fifteenth,  we  spent  at  M'Shita,  reaching 
camp  at  Amman  late  that  evening.  Our  journey  from 
Abu  Nugla  eastward  was  through  splendid  wheat  fields, 
many  miles  in  extent,  and  great  flocks  and  herds  of  camels, 
sheep,  and  goats,  and  tents  in  abundance.  About  one 
group  of  tents  a  great  many  men  and  horses  were  gathered, 
and  there  were  a  number  of  mounted  men  in  an  adjoining 
field;  from  the  movements  we  judged  there  must  be 
something  on  foot  of  unusual  importance.  We  soon 
learned  that  there  was  a  family  quarrel  between  two 
branches  of  the  Beni  Sakhr,  and  this  meeting  or  confer- 
ence was  for  the  pm-pose  of  settUng  the  matter. 

On  one  of  these  broad,  beautiful  fields  we  gave  chase  to  a 
fox,  but  the  animal  outwitted  us  all.     "We  thought  we  were 


254  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

upon  Idm,  but  he  suddenly  disappeared.  He  did  not  rise 
into  the  air,  nor  did  he  go  into  the  earth,  for  there  was  no 
hole ;  but  while  going  like  the  wind  in  one  dn-ection,  and 
we  were  very  near  him,  he  turned  like  a  flash  of  hght  and 
vanished.  How  it  was  possiljle  for  the  creatui-e  to  escape 
and  to  become  invisible  was  to  us  all  a  mystery. 

We  passed,  on  our  way  to  M'Shita,  Um  el  Khanafis  on 
our  left,  also  Um  el  'Amid  and  a  wady  of  the  same  name. 
The  vast  plain  near  this  place  is  called  Sahel  Malaha. 
To  om^  right  was  a  ruin  called  El  Jaduda ;  near  that, 
Rujm  el  Hammam;  far  to  our  right  we  saw  Ziza;  near 
to  us  was  El  BmTak.  About  one  hour  before  reaching 
M'Shita  we  crossed  Henu  Ziza,  a  small,  shallow  wady, 
but  which  carries  a  good  deal  of  water  in  the  rainy 
season.  "We  reached  M'Shita  in  three  hours  and  forty 
minutes  from  the  time  of  leaving  our  camp  at  Abu  Nugla. 
On  our  way  from  M'Shita  to  Amman  we  passed  Um  el 
Burrak  the  Upper ;  the  place  of  the  same  name  which  we 
saw  in  the  morning  was  designated  the  Lower.  A  little 
later  we  passed  Kusair  es  Sahel,  and  near  that  point 
on  our  right  the  ruins  of  a  small  castle  on  a  hUl.  In 
this  region  were  several  quarries,  which  had,  no  doubt,  in 
days  past,  supplied  stones  to  Amman,  as  they  were  not  many 
miles  distant  from  it.  In  these  quarries  were  also  some 
sarcophagi.  Still  farther  along  on  our  left  was  a  ruin 
called  Tahin,  whence  we  saw  Kleb  Haiu'an  far  in  the 
north-east,  sixty  miles  distant. 

A  Httle  later,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  a  portion  of  the 
Hauran  plain,  also  of  its  mountains,  and  of  Salchad 
castle.  We  soon  struck  into  the  line  of  a  Roman  road 
which  led  south  from  Amman,  and  passed  other  quaiTies, 
one  of  which  showed  evidence  that  stones  of  immense 
size  had  been  cut  from  it.  These  quarries  would  cer- 
tainly be    used    again    if   the    coimtry   should    ever    be 


ON  THE    UPPER  ZEBKA.  255 

restored  to  its  original  prosperity.  We  followed  this 
Roman  road  down  a  valley  leading  to  the  north-east, 
and  soon  reached  the  Zerka,  where  oiir  animals,  that  had 
had  no  water  since  early  morning,  quenched  their  thirst 
in  the  clear,  cool  water  of  this  beautiful  stream.  We  had 
liid  the  Zerka  good-by  on  the  17th  of  March,  when  we  left 
our  camping-place  near  the  mouth  of  the  wady,  and  here 
we  reached  it  again  in  its  extreme  upper  portion.  We  were 
four  hom-s  and  thu'ty  minutes  in  reaching  oiu*  camp  at 
Amman. 

I  am  surprised  at  the  small  amount  of  game  thus  far 
seen  east  of  the  Jordan  valley,  and  especially  south  and 
east  of  Hasban.  It  may  be  abundant  at  certain  seasons, 
but  we  saw  only  a  hmited  number  of  wild  animals  and 
birds,  compared  with  what  I  expected  we  should  see. 

Wood  is  scarce  in  this  region  ;  in  fact,  it  was  impossible 
to  obtain  any,  and  our  coal  was  giving  out.  So  oiu*  ser- 
vants bought  a  plough  and  cut  it  up  for  firewood.  It 
served  us  that  evening  and  the  next  day  far  better  than 
bushes  would  have  done  for  the  purpose  of  cooking  our 
scanty  food. 

Our  Arabs  who  accompanied  us  to  M'Shita  had  never 
been  to  the  place,  but  they  knew  the  general  direction  and 
made  a  good  guess,  for,  after  starting,  we  hardly  changed 
our  com'se.  Arabs,  I  find,  are  like  people  of  other  nations. 
It  is  not  every  one  who  has  locality  and  direction  well  de- 
veloped. I  have  known  them  to  wander  about  a  long  time 
in  trying  to  strike  a  certain  point  of  which  they  were  not 
sure.  Most  of  the  Arabs  whom  we  have  met  in  Moab 
seem  to  be  afraid  of  the  Ruwalla.  This  is  a  large  tribe 
belonging  in  the  interior ;  but  this  year  they  are  pressing 
westward,  because  water  and  pasturage  have  been  scarce 
in  their  own  section  of  the  desert.  Those  who  went  \ni\\ 
us  were  constantly  on  the  watch  5  and  once  a  movement 


256 


EAST   OF  THE  JOED  AN. 


was  seen  by  one  of  our  guides,  who  halted  the  party  until 
the  matter  was  decided.  The  point  of  supposed  danger  was 
several  miles  distant,  and  none  of  the  others  saw  anything, 
but  our  glasses  revealed  a  few  camels  standing  among  the 
alkali  bushes.     They  were  about  the  color  of  these  shruVs, 


Plan    of    M'Shita    Ruin.       [From    Dr.    Tristram.] 

but  the  keen  eyes  of  this  particular  Bedawin  had  detected 
m<)\'ing  objects,  and  he  was  afraid  that  the  di'eaded  tribe 
might  be  in  the  vicinity. 


The  ruiu  called  M'Shita,  or  Mashita,  a  palace  in   the 
desert,  merits  a  detailed  description. 


ON   THE    UP  FEB  ZERKA. 


257 


About  five  hours  east  of  Hasban,  and  a  short  distance 
east  of  the  Haj  road  from  Damascus  to  Mecca,  stands  one 
of  the  most  wonderful  ruins  of  the  Ea§t.  Seetzen,  when 
collecting  a  list  of  names  of  places  in  that  region,  heard  of 
the  name,  which  he  writes  "El  Mschetta"  (i.,  p.  395),  but  the 
place  remained  unvisited  and  its  character  unknown  until 
Dr.  H.  B.  Tristram  and  his  party  made  a  pretty  thorough 
examination   of  the  ruins  in   1872,  the  results  of  which 


Gate    at    M'Shita. 


were  embodied  in  that  gentleman's  volume,  "  The  Land 
of  Moab."  In  the  same  volume  (pp.  378-395),  Mr.  James 
Fergusson  has  attempted  to  fix  the  date  of  this  ruin.  He 
ascribes  it  to  Chosroes  II.,  and  his  paper  is  entitled  "  The 
Persian  Palace  of  Mashita."  Taking  the  labors  of  Dr. 
Tristram  and  Mr.  Fergusson  as  a  basis,  Professor  George 
RawHnson,  in  his  "Seventh  Oriental  Monarchy"  (1876), 
i.  e..  the  Sassanian,  has  dra^vn  therefrom  many  facts  in 
illustration  of  Sassanian  or  Neo-Persian  architecture. 


258  EAST   OF   THE  JORDAN. 

We  do  not  propose  to  discuss  the  origin  of  this  ruin,  but 
merely  to  offer  a  few  suggestions  which  appear  to  have 
been  overlooked  by  the  scholars  just  named.  We  took  four 
excellent  photographs  of  M'Shita,  —  a  general  view,  a  view 
of  the  entrance,  one  of  the  interior  buildings,  and  another 
of  one  of  the  towers  on  the  front  wall  of  the  edifice.  On 
this  tower  we  counted  upwards  of  fifty  different  animals 
and  birds  sculptured  in  the  ornamentation.  And  of  the 
carving  upon  these  waUs,  we  may  say  in  general  that 
Professor  Rawlinson  even  understates  the  truth  when  he 
says  :  '^  This  edifice  was  adorned  externally  \\dth  a  richness 
and  magnificence  unparalleled  in  the  other  remains  of 
Sassanian  times,  and  scarcely  exceeded  in  the  architecture 
of  any  age  or  nation  "  (p.  596). 

The  building  is  five  hundred  feet  square,  and  is  flanked 
by  twenty-five  towers.  It  has  but  one  entrance.  The  wall 
is  from  fidPteen  to  twenty  feet  high.  The  interior  is  divided 
into  tliree  equal  sections,  running  from  front  to  rear ;.  but 
only  the  middle  one  is  occupied  by  rooms.  In  this  section, 
next  the  entrance,  were  sixteen  rooms,  and  at  the  farther 
end  there  were  twenty-five,  or  twenty-six  if  we  count 
the  large  court  through  which  the  other  rooms  were 
reached. 

Following  Dr.  Tristram  and  Mr.  Fergusson,  Professor 
Rawlinson  says:  "  The  Mashita  palace  was  almost  certainly 
built  between  A.  D.  614  and  A.  D.  627"  (p.  594).  Dr.  Tris- 
tram, summarizing  from  Gibbon  in  the  woi'k  already 
referred  to,  says :  "  In  A.  D.  611,  Chosroes  overran  the 
whole  of  northern  Syria  and  Asia  Minor.  He  then 
advanced  to  Damascus,  and,  after  reposing  his  troops  in 
that  paradise  for  a  season,  invaded  and  reduced  Galilee 
and  the  region  beyond  Jordan,  which  offered  him  a  stout 
resistance,  and  delayed  for  a  time  the  siege  of  Jerusalem, 
which  was  finally  taken  by  assault  A.  D.  614  "  (p.  223). 


ON  THE    UPPEB  ZEBKA.  259 

The  impression  is  pretty  general  that  Chosroes  II. 
invaded  Palestine  and  penetrated  as  far  as  Egypt.  Bnt 
in  reality  there  is  no  evidence  that  Chosroes  himself  was 
ever  so  far  south  even  as  Damascus,  to  say  nothing  of 
Palestine  proper.  The  order  of  events,  as  given  hy  Raw- 
linson,  is  as  follows :  In  A.  D.  611,  the  Persians  took 
Antioch  and  Apameia.  In  612,  Cappadocia  was  invaded 
and  Cesarea  Mazaca  captured.  Two  years  later, — A.  D. 
614, —  Chosroes  "  sent  his  general,  Shahr  Barz,  into  the 
region  'east  of  the  Anti-Libanus,  and  took  the  ancient  and 
famous  city  of  Damascus.  From  Damascus,  in  the  ensu- 
ing year,  Shahr  Barz  advanced  against  Palestine."  In 
A.  D.  615,  Jerusalem  was  captured  by  him.  It  was  in 
A.  D.  616  that  Shahr  Barz  proceeded  from  Palestine  into 
Egypt.  Meanwhile  a  great  war  was  going  on  in  Asia 
Minor.  Chalcedon  was  besieged,  and  fell  in  A.  D.  617. 
''  Three  years  afterwards,  Ancyra  (Angora),  which  had 
hitherto  resisted  the  Persian  arms,  was  taken,"  and 
Rhodus  also  submitted.  This  was  in  A.  D.  620.  Shahr 
Barz  made  his  campaign  into  Egj^pt  in  A.  D.  616,  and 
he  could  hardly  have  returned  before  the  next  year, 
A.  D.  617.  But,  in  A.  D.  622,  we  find  him  far  in  the 
north,  on  the  borders  of  Ai*menia,  fighting  Heraclius,  by 
whom  he  is  defeated.  We  do  not  know  that  Shahr  Barz 
ever  returned  to  Palestine.  He  was  constantly  occupied 
with  campaigns  in  the  north  and  east  until  A.  D.  628, 
when  Chosroes  was  killed.  The  affairs  of  the  Persians 
grew  worse  after  A.  D.  622,  and  Sii'oes,  or  Kobad  II.,, 
successor  of  Chosroes,  was  obKged  to  evacuate  Egypt, 
Palestine,  Sj-ria,  Asia  Minor,  and  western  Mesopotamia. 
This  evacuation  was  accomplished  in  A.  D.  629,  after 
Kobad  II.  was  dead  and  Shahr  Barz  had  assumed  the 
royal  authority,  which,  however,  he  enjoyed  but  about 
two  months. 


260  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Thus  we  find  that  Ohosroes  II.  was  never  in  Pales- 
tine. Shahr  Barz,  his  general,  was  constantly  engaged  in 
war  during  the  entire  period  of  the  Persian  supremacy  in 
Palestine,  with  the  possible  exception  of  the  years  between 
A.  D.  617  and  A.  D.  622,  and  during  these  four  or  five 
years  the  empire  was  straining  every  energy  to  provide 
men  and  money  for  the  great  campaigns  in  the  north. 

It  seems  to  us  almost  certain  that  Chosroes  did  not 
build  the  M'Shita  palace. 

It  is,  moreover,  very  doubtful  if  it  was  built  by  Shahr 
Barz.  If,  however,  Shahr  Barz  had  wished  to  build  a 
palace,  why  were  Palestine  and  Egypt  passed  by,  or 
Alexandiia,  Jerusalem,  and  Damascus  ?  Why  did  he  go 
out  into  the  desert  beyond  any  other  settlements,  beyond 
any  line  of  travel,  away  from  springs  and  watercourses, 
and  select  a  site  for  a  palace  ? 

Furthermore,  Mr.  Eawlinson  says :  "  It  is  difficult  to  say 
how  far  their  [the  Persians']  newly  acquired  provinces  were 
really  subdued,  organized,  and  governed  from  Ctesiphon, 
how  far  they  were  really  overrun,  plundered,  and  then  left 
to  themselves."  There  is  historical  testimony  that  after  the 
Romans  withdrew  from  Syria  and  Palestine  these  countries 
were  filled  with  terrible  disorders.  This  would  not  leave  a 
conquering  general  much  leisure  to  build  palaces  in  the 
desert.     (See  all  of  chapters  xxiv,  and  xxv.,  pp.  493-547.) 

Whatever  argument  can  be  derived  from  lofatiou  is 
against  the  theory  that  M'Shita  was  built  l\v  the  Persians. 

Further,  the  character  of  the  ornamental  work  at 
M'Shita,  considered  in  connection  with  its  location,  make;; 
it  very  improbable  that  the  Persians  had  anything  to 
do  with  it.  It  is  natural  to  suppose  that  the  finest  build- 
ings would  be  found  at  the  capital,  or  in  some  of  the  most 
important  cities  of  the  empire.  Professor  Rawlinson 
speaks   of    the   "  third    and    grandest    of    the    Sassanian 


ON  THE    UPPER  ZEBKA. 


261 


palaces,  the  well-known  '  Takht-i-Khosru/  or  j^alace  of 
Chosroes  Anushirwan  at  Ctesiphon "  (p.  592).  But  of 
the  IM'Shita  palace  he  says :  "  While  on  a  smaller  scale 
than  that  of  Ctesiphon,  it  was  far  more  richly  ornamented  " 
(p.  594).  We  have  already  quoted  a  passage  in  which  he 
states  that  "this  edifice  was  adorned  externally  with  a 
richness  and  magnificence  unparalleled  in  the  other  remains 
of  Sassanian  times"  (p.  596).     Again  he  says:  "  There  were 


lavished  upon  this  building  aU  the  known  resources  of  art " 
(p.  596).  It  is  thus  admitted  that  the  finest  and  most  richly 
adorned  monument  of  Sassanian  art  is  at  this  remote  point 
in  the  desert. 

Again,  the  details  of  the  building  show  many  points  of 
contrast  with  the  eastern  Sassanian  palaces.  "  The  height 
of  the  arch  in  Sassanian  buildings  varies  from  abotit  fifty 
to  eighty-five  feet"  (p.  583).  ''  The  height  to  which  the 
domed  apartments  rise  from  the  ground  is  not  much  above 


262  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

seventy  feet."  "If  the  Ctesiphon  palace,  as  originally 
built,  had  domes,  their  height  probably  exceeded  one 
hundred  feet "  (p.  583).  "As  many  as  seventeen  or  eighteen 
rooms  have  been  found  in  a  palace  "  (p.  584).  "  The  palace 
at  Serbistan  is  the  smallest"  of  all  the  Sassanian  palaces 
(of  which  there  are  four,  including  M'Shita).  But  "the 
interior  height  of  the  dome  from  the  floor  is  sixty-five  feet " 
(pp.  587,  588).  In  the  Fu'uzabad  palace  the  domes  were 
seventy-five  feet  in  height,  and  the  "  entrance  was  a  noble 
arch,  above  fifty  feet  in  height"  (pp.  588-590).  The  palace 
at  Ctesiphon  had  a  vaulted  hall  eighty-five  feet  high 
(p.  592). 

On  the  other  hand,  M'Shita  appears  to  have  had  upwards 
of  forty  rooms — more  than  double  the  number  in  any  east- 
ern Sassanian  palace.  The  height  of  the  domes  may  have 
been  thirty  or  thirty-five,  or  possibly  forty  feet.  The 
height  of  the  arch,  if  there  was  one,  it  is  impossible  to  teU. 

It  is  alleged  that  the  ornamentation  at  M'Shita  is  notice- 
able by  the  absence  of  any  distinctively  Christian  symbols. 
It  can  also  be  alleged  that  any  distinctively  Persian  symbols 
are  likewise  wanting.  The  crescent,  as  weU  as  other 
symbols,  does  not  appear  ;  and  it  is  admitted  that  the 
ornamentation  of  the  M'Shita  palace  is  unlike  that  of  the 
Sassanian  palaces  in  the  East. 

Still  further,  it  should  be  mentioned  that  a  large  number 
of  the  bu'ds  and  animals  found  sculptured  on  the  M'Shita 
ruin  are  exactly  like  those  found  on  Chi-istian  and  Roman 
monuments  of  various  kinds,  including  coins  of  the  period 
extending  from  the  second  to  the  fifth  centuries  of  the 
Christian  era.  The  period  referred  to  was  one  of  great 
prosperity  for  the  country  east  of  the  Jordan.  Towns  and 
cities  multiplied,  and  temples,  churches,  theatres,  and  other 
public  buildings  were  erected  in  great  numbers,  and  at 
lavish  expense.     During  the  latter  part  of  this  period,  when 


ox  THE    UFPEB  ZEBKA. 


2G3 


tlie  Byzantine  artists  were  the  finest  in  the  woiid,  when 
Christianity  was  tending  towards  monasticism,  and  when, 
for  the  East  Jordan  country  at  least,  wealth  abounded,  it  is 
not  unreasonable  to  suppose  that  one  of  the  Christian 
emperors  built  at  M'Shita  a  church  and  convent  on  a  mag- 
nificent scale. 

What  I  have  now  said  I  wish  to  be  regarded  as   sug- 
gestions relating  to  the  general  discussion  of  the  origin  of 


Tower  at   M'Shita. 

one  of  the  most  interesting  ruins  to  be  found  in  any  paii; 
of  the  world.  I  am  quite  confident  that  more  detailed 
measurements  and  observations,  accompanied  by  excava- 
tions, will  throw  light  upon  a  question  which  it  would  be 
most  gratifying  to  have  solved. 


"We  spent  Saturday  night  and  also  the  Sabbath  at 
Amman.  There  was  a  cool  breeze,  and  the  day  was  clear 
and  beautiful.     The  Old  Testament  history  connected  with 


264 


EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 


this  place  is  interesting,  and  the  children  of  Ammon  had  a 
rich  country  and  a  capital  city  of  which  they  might  be 
proud.  The  Romans  added  two  theatres,  and,  besides  other 
public  buildings,  a  magnificent  temple  on  the  hill  to  the 
north.  But  as  the  centre  of  the  Ammonite  power  for 
centuries,  it  must  have  had  its  attractions,  and  doubtless 
there  are  still  beneath  the  surface  of  the  ground  many 
remains  of  those  early  days. 

There  is  a  singular  building  on  the  top  of  the  hiU,  not 
far  from  the  Roman  temple  just  referred  to,  which  Dr. 
Tristram  says  is  a  "perfect  Greek  church  of  the  late  Byzan- 


Plan   of  a  Temple  at  Amman. 

tine  tjrpe."  Its  form  is  square  outside,  although  within  "  it 
is  a  perfect  Greek  cross,"  measuring  seventy  feet  each  way. 
The  ornamental  work  on  the  interior  has  a  good  deal  of 
variety  and  beauty.  This  building  is  occupied  at  present 
by  peasant  families  from  Es  Salt,  who  are  cultivatuig  land 
in  this  vicinity.  The  men  whom  I  found  at  home  were  very 
intelligent,  and  not  only  allowed  me  to  examine  this  build- 
ing, but  took  pains  to  assist  me  in  other  parts  of  the  ruins, 
calling  my  attention  to  facts  that  might  otherwise  have 
been  overlooked.  To  me  the  most  interesting  object  on  the 
hill  was  the  Roman  temple.     According  to  our  measure- 


ON  THE    UPPER  ZEBKA.  265 

ments,  it  was  fifty  feet  wide  by  one  hundred  and  sixty 
feet  long.  It  had  foiu*  columns  on  each  end,  and  eight  on 
each  side. 

These  columns  were  forty-five  feet  high,  and  the  capitals 
were  of  rich  Corinthian  work.  The  columns  were  six  feet 
in  diameter,  and  on  the  end  of  two  sections  was  engraved 
in  very  large  letters  the  word  Aoxreor.  The  letters  were 
arranged  in  two  lines  in  one  case,  and  three  in  another, 
as  follows : 

C   C 

o  c  CCOC 

The  word  signifies  "from  a  present,  or  gift,"  showing 
that  the  column  was  a  contribution  from  some  wealthy  or 
benevolent  person. 

The  inscriptions  could  not,  of  course,  be  seen  when  the 
column  stood  erect.  They  were  read  before  it  was  put 
into  position,  and  can  be  read  now  that  the  sections  are 
fallen  apart.  Around  the  entire  building  there  appears  to 
have  extended  an  architrave,  which  was  three  feet  wide, 
and  under  a  portion  of  it,  at  least,  was  a  Grreek  inscription 
beautifully  carved  in  two  lines,  the  single  letters  being  six 
inches  in  length.  The  stones  composing  this  architrave 
were  badly  broken  when  the  building  fell,  and  some  of 
them  are  covered  in  the  earth,  while  others,  half  buried, 
project  from  the  ground;  the  inscription  is  much  muti- 
lated, and  can  be  copied  only  in  fragments. 

Farther  north,  beyond  this  temple,  are  the  ruins  of  a 

castle,  and  no  doubt  this  was  the  site  of  the  citadel  of  the 

place  from   the   earliest   times.     Near  this,   on  the   liigh 

ground  to  the  north,  is  probablv  the  scene  of  the  great 

12 


266  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN, 

battle  under  Antiochus  the  Great,  wliicli  took  place  in 
218  B.  C.  Describing  the  siege  of  Rabatamana,  by  Anti- 
ochus the  Great,  Polybius  (b.  v.,  chap.  6,  end)  says  :  "  When 
he  had  surveyed  it  round  on  every  side,  and  remarked  that 
there  were  two  places  only  by  which  it  was  possible  to 
approach  it,  he  there  planted  liis  machines  and  made  the 
necessary  disposition  for  the  attack.  The  batteries  on  one 
side  were  commanded  by  Nicarchus,  and  on  the  other  by 
Theodotus,  while  the  king  attended  alike  to  both  with  equal 
\'igilance,  and  observed  the  zealous  emulation  of  the  gen- 
erals. As  the  attack  was  made  by  both  with  the  greatest 
\4gor,  and  each  contended  to  be  the  first  in  battering  down 
the  part  against  which  liis  own  machines  were  pointed, 
on  a  sudden,  when  it  was  scarcely  expected,  the  wall  on 
lioth  sides  fell.  After  this  success,"  they  renewed  their 
assaults  against  the  place  continually,  with  the  utmost 
force  and  fury,  both  by  night  and  day.  As  the  numbers, 
however,  of  those  that  were  within  the  city  were  very  great, 
all  their  efforts  were  ineffectual.  But  after  some  time, 
being  informed  by  one  of  the  prisoners  that  were  taken,  of 
a  certain  subterraneous  passage  from  which  the  besieged 
were  supplied  with  water,  they  filled  the  mouth  of  it  ^vith 
wood  and  stones  and  such  other  materials,  and  thus  in  a 
short  time  forced  the  inhabitants,  through  Avant  of  water, 
to  surrender." 

The  side  of  the  hill  north  of  the  stream,  and  between  it 
and  the  temple  just  described,  is  very  steep,  but  it  has  been 
occupied  by  houses.  These  were  built  so  that  the  roof  of 
one  would  form  the  court  and  a  portion  of  the  fioor  of 
another,  or  the  one  above  it.  The  long  street  coming  up 
the  valley,  by  which  the  city  was  approached  from  the  east, 
was  lined  with  columns.  This  appears  to  have  been  con- 
sidered an  important  addition  to  a  city  east  of  the  Jordan, 
for  we  find  the  same  at  Madeba  and  Beit  or  Ras,  or  Cani- 


ON  THE    UPPER  ZERKA.  267 

tolias,  while  at  Gerash,  a  street,  lined  Avitli  columns,  ran  tlie 
entire  length  of  the  city. 

It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  Balaam,  in  some  of  the 
ancient  records,  is  connected  with  the  children  of  Ammon ; 
and  as  we  are  now  at  their  ancient  capital,  we  present  the 
following  suggestions  with  regard  to  that  soothsayer's  home 
or  country : 

In  the  first  place,  we  have  Balaam's  own  account  of  the 
place  where  he  belonged.  "  The  king  of  Moab  hath  brought 
me  from  Aram  [Syria],  out  of  the  mountains  of  the  east." 
Of  the  two  other  accounts,  one  states  that  he  was  at 
"  Pethor,  which  is  by  the  river  of  the  land  of  the  children 
of  his  people  ";  and  the  other  that  Balaam  "  was  the  son  of 
Beor  of  Pethor  of  Mesopotamia "  (Numb,  xxii.,  5 ;  xxiii., 
7;  Deut.  xxiii.,  4).  Aram  Naliaraim^  rendered  Mesopota- 
mia, was  no  doubt  supposed,  at  the  time  the  Septuagint 
translation  was  made,  to  refer  to  the  country  between  the 
Tigris  and  Euphrates.  "Syria  of  the  two  rivers"  may,  how- 
ever, without  any  violence  to  the  language,  refer  to  the 
region  about  Damascus.  Indeed,  this  region  bore  the  name 
of  Syi'ia  from  the  earliest  times.  When  the  fact  is  consid- 
ered, namely;  that  the  region  about  Damascus,  and  to  the 
south  and  south-west  as  well,  was  called  Syria,  the  state- 
ment of  the  Babylonian  Talmud,  Erubin  19«,  becomes  a  sig- 
nificant commentary  on  the  word  "Naharaim,"  or  rivers. 
Speaking  of  the  Garden  of  Eden,  it  is  said :  "  If  it  is  in  the 
land  of  Israel,  Bethshean  is  its  gate ;  if  it  is  in  Arabia,  Beth 
Gerem  is  its  gate  ;  if  it  is  between  the  rivers,  Damascus  is  its 
gate." 

The  Midianites  act  with  the  Moabites  in  calling  Balaam. 
The  messengers  sent  by  Balak  went  and  returned,  and 
went  and  returned  again,  making  four  times  that  they 
passed  over  the  region  between  Moab  and  Pethor.     Sup- 


268  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

posing  Balaam's  home  was  in  Mesopotamia,  tlicy  must  liave 
passed  through  the  countries  of  the  Ammonites  and  the 
Amorites,  and  of  the  strong  people  occupying  the  regions 
about  Damascus,  or  else  have  gone  entirely  to  the  south 
and  east  of  tiieni,  by  a  desert  route,  of  the  existence  of 
which  nothing  at  present  is  known.  The  distance  from 
Moab  to  the  Euphrates  would  probably  occupy  twenty-five 
days,  or  a  whole  month.  Here  would  be  four  months  con- 
sumed, to  which  must  be  added  two  months  and  more  for 
Balaam  to  "  return  to  his  place,"  and  to  come  back  again  in 
season  for  the  battle  in  which  he  himself  was  slain.  In 
making  this  journey,  Balaam  rode  upon  an  ass.  Would  a 
journey  of  such  length,  attended  at  all  times  with  many 
hardships,  where  the  stations  for  water  are  two  to  four 
days  apart,  be  undertaken  on  such  an  animal  ?  Only 
camels  woidd  be  thought  of  at  the  present  time  for  cross- 
ing the  desert.  Another  fact  to  be  considered  is,  that 
apparently  very  soon,  if  not  immediately  after  Balaam 
starts  from  his  home,  he  is  in  a  cultivated  country.  "  The 
angel  of  the  Lord  stood  in  a  path  of  the  vineyards,  a  wall 
being  on  this  side  and  a  wall  on  that  side."  Balaam's  foot 
was  "  crushed  against  the  wall "  (Numb,  xxii.,  24,  25).  In 
the  long  stretch  of  desert  between  the  Euphrates  and  the 
Hauran  mountains,  vineyards  have  never  existed ;  while  on 
the  south-western  slope  of  these  mountains  the  remains  of 
terraces  show  that  vine  culture  was  once  extensive  in  that 
section.  The  same  is  true  in  the  country  about  Heshbon, 
and  also  farther  north,  in  the  Jazer  and  Ammon  regions. 
Again,  in  Numb,  xxii.,  5,  where  we  read,  "  to  Pethor,  which 
is  by  the  river  of  the  land  of  the  children  of  his  people," 
the  words,  "children  of  his  people/'  n^y  -^ra,  are  in  some 
manuscripts  replaced  by  "children  of  Ammon,"  tiks  ■'in. 
"  This  reading  is  adopted  by  the  Samaritan,  Syriac,  and 
Vulgate  versions."    Communications  between  the  countries 


ON  THE    UPPER  ZEBKA.  269 

bordering  upon  the  Euphrates  and  the  Arnon  must  have 
been  very  frequent  to  have  enabled  the  king  of  Moab  to 
become  acquainted  with  the  name  and  character  of  a 
soothsayer  who  lived  in  what  was,  at  a  later  period, 
classical  Mesopotamia.  In  view  of  these  facts,  may 
not  some  reasonable  explanation  be  found  which  shall 
reheve  the  matter  of  the  difficulties  attending  the  opinion 
that  Balaam  came  from  the  Euphrates?  On  the  other 
hand,  Mr.  George  Smith,  the  Assyrian  scholar,  told  us  long 
ago,  and  the  fact  has  since  been  stated  by  him  in  more  than 
one  of  his  writings,  that  Pethor  and  Mutkinu  Avere  two 
fortresses  on  the  right  or  west  bank  of  the  Euphrates. 
These  were  held  by  Tiglath  Pileser  I.,  1120  B.  C.  (See 
George  Smith's  "Assyria  from  the  Monuments,"  pp.  32-34.) 

While  journeying  along  the  Zerka  valley  one  has  the 
impression  that  he  is  travelling  in  a  rich  and  fertile  country. 
Water  is  abundant,  the  bottom  lands  are  broad  and  level, 
and  the  cultivated  fields,  together  with  the  flocks  and 
herds,  everywhere  give  the  appearance  of  life  and  Avealth. 
When  this  Roman  road,  which  we  have  traced  along  this 
route,  was  in  good  condition,  and  the  country  here  as  well 
as  elsewhere  was  under  a  high  state  of  cijltivation,  a  ride  in 
a  chariot  eastward  from  Amman  must  have  been  a  delight- 
ful and  a  very  enjoyable  one.  There  were  a  few  towns 
along  the  river  and  others  on  the  liiUs  overlooking  it.  The 
j'iver,  in  its  upper  course,  or  between  Amman  and  Kulat 
Zerka,  is  a  large,  broad  stream  at  times,  while  in  the  dry 
season  it  appears  at  a  certain  point,  and  after  a  little 
suddenly  disappears  for  a  half  mile  or  more  perhaps, 
when  it  reappears  again.  Just  south  of  the  crossing  near 
Kulat  Zerka,  there  are  on  the  east  side  four  great  fountains 
bursting  from  the  foot  of  the  hill  into  the  stream,  which 
give  it  from  this  point  onward  a  much  greater  bulk  than  it 


270  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

had  before.  Indeed,  the  Arabs  call  this  point  the  head  of 
the  Zerka,  while  the  portion  above,  along  which  we  have 
come,  they  caU  Wady  Amman.  Kulat  Zerka  itself  is 
Moslem  work,  and  the  place  has  nothing  formidable  about 
it.  It  is  a  great  convenience  to  the  pilgrims  on  their  way 
to  Mecca,  and  affords  shelter  to  the  keeper  and  his  family, 
to  the  few  soldiers  who  occasionally  visit  it,  and  is  a  secure 
place  for  the  Bedawin  to  store  their  grain,  of  which  we  saw 
great  piles  in  sacks  in  different  parts  of  the  castle.  There 
is  a  fine  view  from  the  top  of  it  over  the  Hauran  plain  and 
mountains,  including  Salchad.  At  some  points  along  the 
Zerka,  the  oleanders  are  very  abundant,  as  they'  are  along 
many  other  of  the  watercourses  in  this  East  Jordan 
country.  They  are  now  in  bud,  l^ut  when  in  bloom,  as  I 
have  often  seen  them,  they  present  a  gorgeous  appearance. 

Our  camp  is  near  the  stream  on  the  left  bank,  not  far 
from  the  crossing  already  referred  to.  To  the  west  and 
north  of  us  is  a  great  plain  one  mile  and  a  half  in  width, 
and  at  one  point  on  the  farther  side  near  the  hills  are  the 
remains  of  a  castle.  The  ruins  appear  in  two  parts,  near 
each  other,  and  the  work  is  early  Roman,  or  possibly 
of  pre-Roman  origin.  Why  it  should  have  existed  in  two 
parts  I  do  not  know.  With  mechanical  appliances  to  turn 
over  some  of  the  heavy  stones,  inscriptions  might  be  found, 
or  excavations  might  develop  facts  which  would  enable  us 
to  determine  its  character  and  purpose. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  from  our  camp,  and 
twenty  minutes  farther  south,  a  town  of  considerable  size 
has  once  stood.  The  place  has  cisterns  and  some  columns 
which  are  all  small,  and  the  stones  also  are  small ;  but  few, 
indeed,  that  could  not  have  been  brought  on  the  backs  of 
camels.  Some  persons  have  suggested  this  place  as  the 
site  of  the  Roman  town,  Gadda,  l)ut*  there  are  no  distinctive 
marks  of  Roman  work  among  the  ruins. 


ON  THE    UPPER  ZERKA.  271 

The  keeper  of  the  castle  says  there  is  a  large  ruin  to 
the  east,  half  an  hour  or  an  hour  distant,  caUed  Hau  or 
Khau. 

This  afternoon  there  has  been  a  very  unpleasant  wind, 
but  this  evening  it  is  quiet.  The  thermometer  showed  46° 
at  6.30  A.  M.,  at  Amman;  73°  at  Kulat  Zerka,  at  12.30 
P.  M.,  and  50°  at  7.30  P.  M.,  in  our  camp. 

On  the  high  rocks  to  our  left,  about  two  hours  back  from 
our  camping-place,  we  saw  on  our  way  hither  a  raven  on 
its  nest,  and  Van  Dj^ck  went  back  to  see  if  he  could  not 
secure  the  bird  and  its  eggs  for  our  collection,  but  without 
success.  He  found  that  the  nest  was  not  approachable  from, 
above,  although  it  appeared  to  be  from  the  vaUey  as  we 
passed  along.  A  raven's  nest  is  made  of  sticks,  without 
lining.  Such  a  nest  looks  more  like  kindling-wood 
arranged  for  a  lire  than  like  a  place  where  young  birds 
are  to  be  hatched  and  reared.  The  young  of  ravens 
are  not  reared  in  downy  luxury,  and  the  same  is  true  of 
wild  pigeons,  whose  nests  are  made  only  of  bare  sticks, 
just  like  the  ravens',  except  that  the  sticks  are  not  so 
coarse. 


Theatre  at  Gerash. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


GiLEAD. 

The  Jazer  region.  A  wooded  country.  Yajilz,  Ancient  sculptures. 
Great  trees.  Stones  in  quarries.  Moabite  stone  excitement.  Nimr 
Adwan's  tomb.  Trouble  about  inherited  property.  Arab  tradition. 
The  site  of  Gadda.  At  Es  Salt.  Dr.  Thomson  departs.  Jebel 
Osha.  "Crossing  of  the  Christian  Woman."  In  the  Gilead  hills. 
Pines  and  oaks.  Eomantic  scenery.  At  Gerash.  City  of  Columns. 
Triumphal  arch.  Temples.  Theatres.  Streets  lined  with  columns. 
Place  of  Gerash  in  history.     Desolation.     Site  of  Ramoth  Gilead. 


Camp  at  Yaj^-z,  Tuesday,  April  18,  1876. 

THIS  place  is  four  hours  distant  from  our  camp  on  the 
Zerka.  The  thermometer  showed  50°  at  6  A.  M.,  and 
here,  at  6.30  P.  M.,  62°,  with  a  cool  wind.  The  day  has  been 
fine  and  the  atmosphere  perfectly  clear.  From  our  camp 
at  Kulat  Zerka,  we  followed  down  the  stream  a  short  dis- 


GILEAD.  273 

tance  and  then  tui'ned  to  the  west  among  the  low  hills,  the 
road  being  an  easy  one  at  all  points.  All  the  wadies  which 
we  crossed  were  dry.  The  bed  of  one  was  finely  paved  with 
stones  that  had  been  worn  smooth  by  the  action  of  water. 
It  is  thirty  feet  wide,  and  dming  the  rainy  season  must 
contain  a  large  stream,  which  often,  no  doubt,  would  bo 
impassable.  Except  for  those  stones,  naturally  arranged 
as  though  done  by  human  agency,  the  wady  is  not  unlike 
the  others,  and  has  no  name  so  far  as  the  Arabs  know.  In 
one  hour,  or  one  hour  and  a  half,  the  hills,  after  we  turned 
into  them,  began  to  be  wooded,  chiefly  with  fine  old  oaks ; 
Jebel  esh  Sheikh,  now  covered  with  snow,  and  the  Hauran 
Mountains  were  clearly  defined,  and  appeared  much  nearer 
than  they  reaUy  were.  This  whole  region  is  weU  culti- 
vated and  flocks  and  tents  are  numerous. 

Yajuz,  which  was  a  large  city,  has  a  charming  situation. 
It  lies  in  and  on  two  sides  of  a  vaUey  running  east  and 
west.  The  valley  is  not  deep.  It  is  rather  a  small  plain, 
one  mile  wide,  with  two  sides  sloping  very  gently  toward 
each  other.  The  ruins  are  scattered  along  this  valley  for 
two  or  more  miles.  Among  the  ruins  and  on  the  neighbor- 
ing hills  are  many  large  oak  and  some  butrti  trees.  Among 
these  two  kinds  are  especially  noticeable,  one  having  a 
green  leaf  and  the  other  a  leaf  that  is  of  a  reddish  or 
bronze  color.  There  is  here  a  fountain,  and  grass, —  a 
camping-ground  that  is  a  real  luxury  compared  with 
many  places  where  we  have  been  obliged  to  pitch  our 
tents.  Among  these  fine  ruins  are  Corinthian  and  other 
capitals,  columns,  large  slabs  of  stone,  lintels,  squared 
l)locks  of  the  best  Roman  work,  some  bevelled  stones, 
various  kinds  of  ornamentation,  rosettes,  several  different 
forms  of  crosses,  and  some  carved  figures  and  statues 
that  have  bepn  mutilated,  as  is  always  the  case  where 
Moslems  have  been.  There  are  also  reservoirs  with  sub- 
12* 


274  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

stantial  roofs  supported  on  arches,  and  near  the  butm- 
trees  at  onr  camp  is  one  building  one  hundred  and  forty 
feet  square,  with  the  remains  of  other  buildings  close  by. 
Near  the  top  of  the  low  hill  to  the  north  of  the  town  is  a 
quarry  where  large  mill- stones  have  been  cut,  and  one  is 
stni  l}^ng  there  which  is  eight  feet  in  diameter.  Like- 
Avise,  stones  for  building  purposes  appear  to  have  been 
cut  from  these  quarries.  I  foiuid  the  remains  of  one  temple, 
also  of  one  church  which  was  sixty  feet  from  the  front 
to  the  extremity  of  the  apse  (placed  in  this  case  in  the 
south-east),  and  the  remains  of  another  church  which  was 
more  than  twice  the  size  of  that  just  mentioned.  The  place 
appears  to  have  had  many  public  buildiugs  that  were  large 
and  elegant.  On  the  hiU  to  the  south  are  other  quarries, 
and  in  that  part  of  the  ruins  are  some  very  well  preserved 
houses.  But  a  fact  which  interested  me  particularly  was 
that  near  these  quarries  a  great  many  squared  stones  had 
been  laid  out,  as  if  they  had  been  prepared  ready  for  ship- 
ping or  for  use,  and  the  owner  having  died,  perhaps  the 
demand  having  ceased,  or  for  some  other  reason,  they  were 
left  and  remained  untouched  to  the  present  day. 

Among  the  mutilated  carved  work  were  two  figures  of 
lions,  quite  well  preserved;  also  one  of  an  eagle  and  one 
of  a  woman.  The  last  had  met  with  a  tragical  fate.  So 
far  as  we  could  learn,  it  was  perfect,  or  nearly  so, 
until  recent  years.  Wlien  the  Moabite  stone  excitement 
occurred,  which  stirred  up  these  Bedawin  far  more  than 
any  persons  at  a  distance  can  realize,  the  Arabs  heard 
that  parties  from  Jerusalem  were  going  to  visit  this 
place,  and  they  supposed  that  this  female  figure,  which 
they  knew  about,  was  the  object  of  theii-  search.  Cer- 
tain of  the  Arabs  had  promised  to  show  it  to  these 
Jerusalem  parties  without  consulting  the  other  Arabs 
who   claimed   an    cHpial    voice    in    the    disposition    of    it. 


GILEAB.  275 

Consequently,  the  latter  rode  all  niglit  to  this  place, 
broke  the  figure,  and  secreted  the  parts.  Two  of  our 
own  men  had  done  this  job,  and  they  showed  us  where 
they  had  secreted  the  head,  an  arm,  and  the  feet;  while 
the  main  part  of  the  stone,  to  which  the  body  was 
attached,  they  turned  with  the  carved  side  down,  so  that 
no  one  would  see  it.  As  these  Arabs  do  not  distinguish 
between  inscriptions  and  carved  work,  they  showed  me 
here  other  "  written  stones ''  which  they  turned  over,  in 
order  to  conceal  the  figures  on  them  from  the  persons 
from  Jerusalem,  and  also  from  their  own  people,  of  whom 
they  were  jealous.  On  one  of  those  which  they  showed 
me  was  a  cross,  which  had  very  peculiar  carved  work 
about  it. 

Near  these  trees  at  our  camp  is  a  kind  of  family  bury- 
ing-ground.  There  are  not  many  graves,  however,  and 
only  one  that  is  at  all  prominent.  This  is  the  tomb  of 
Nimr  Adwan,  the  grandfather  of  Goblan.  This  is  well 
built,  has  an  inscription  upon  it  in  Arabic,  and  appears 
to  be  cared  for  by  the  descendants  of  the  deceased 
with  more  than  usual  attention.  The  year  is  given  on 
Sheikh  Nimr's  tomb  as  follows,  the  scrawl  meaning 
sanat,  or  year,  and  the  characters  indicating  the  date : 


/r  rA 


That  is,  1238,  which  corresponds  to  A.  D.  1823.     Above 
it  is  some  poetry,  and  on  the  other  end  of  the  tomb  is 

the  mark  of  the  Adwan  tribe,  as  follows :    /  T 

These  characters  are,  in  some  cases,  six  inches  long,  in 
others  ten  or  twelve. 


276  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

This  rich  region  belonged  to  Goblan's  family,  including 
our  friend  Fahed  and  others ;  but  Goblan  gave  a  very 
choice  piece  of  it  for  his  last  wife.  As,  however,  this 
"  Mrs."  Goblan  lived  only  six  months,  Fahed  says  that  the 
family  are  not  at  all  reconciled  to  the  fact  that  the  land 
has  gone  out  of  their  hands.  Even  Bedawin  are  civil- 
ized enough  to  make  trouble  about  the  inheritance  of 
family  estates. 

Some  of  the  trees  near  us  stand  among  and  beside  the 
ruins,  and  have  grown  on  to,  and  about,  the  stones.  In 
one  case  a  tree  has  picked  up  a  block  of  stone  two  feet 
square,  and  raised  it  some  distance  above  the  ground, 
where  it  remains  firmly  held,  somewhat  as  a  dog  holds 
a  bone  in  its  mouth.  I  measured  a  few  of  these  butm- 
trees,  one  of  which  was  fourteen  feet  in  circumference, 
another  twelve  feet,  with  sixteen  feet  clear  trunk  before 
the  limbs  start ;  another  is  ten  feet,  with  a  trunk  ten 
feet  clear,  and  another  (which  is  the  one  holding  the 
stone  suspended,  as  just  described)  is  sixteen  feet  six 
inches  in  circumference.  These  are  I'eaUy  gigantic  trees, 
the  largest  of  the  kind  that  I  remember  to  have  seen. 
One  mile  or  more  to  the  east  of  this  place  is  a  sharp 
peak  called  Kum  Yajuz,  on  which  are  ancient  ruins. 

With  regard  to  the  name  of  this  town,  the  Arabs  have 
a  tradition  that  a  great  man  who  was  about  to  die  wished 
to  be  buried  at  Neby  Musa,  and  it  could  not  be  done.  He 
was  told  that  he  could  be  buried  here,  and  he  replied 
"37yV<2;"  (it  is  lawful),  and  was  bm*ied  here  accordingly. 
But  this  circumstance  could  not  have  been  the  origin  of 
this  name,  which  does  not  appear  to  have  any  meaning 
in  Arabic.  This  makes  it  probable  that  it  is  a  corruption 
or  a  remnant  of  an  ancient  name.  There  is  a  Hebrew 
name,  Jahaz,  but  this  does  not  seem  very  appropriate, 
either.     The  words  "Gog"  and  "Magog''  (Rev.  xx.,  8)  are 


GILEAD.  277 

rendered  in  Ai'abic  by  Juj  and  Majuj  ;  but  the  present 
word  has  a  z  sound  at  the  end,  as  though  the  origmal 
letter  was  not  j  or  (j,  but  perhaps  z  or  dz  or  c?,  letters 
which,  in  Arabic,  are  nearly  related.  There  are  good 
reasons,  we  think,  for  regarding  this  place  as  the  ancient 
Roman  town,  Gadda. 

The  "  Tab.ula  Peutingeriana "  gives  us  two  routes  in 
which  Gadda  is  mentioned, — one  from  Damascus  to  Jeru- 
salem, and  the  other  from  Cesarea  (on  the  sea-coast)  to 
Philadelphia  or  Rabbath  Ammon.  In  both,  Gadda  is 
thirteen  miles  from  Philadelphia,  and  eleven  from  a  place 
of  which  the  name  is  spelled  Hatita  or  Haditha.  There 
can  be  no  doubt  that  this  is  represented  by  Hadid,  a 
considerable  ruin  near  Kulat  Zerka.  The  distance  from 
Hadid  to  Yajuz  is  four  hours,  i.  e.,  ten  or  twelve  miles. 
This  corresponds  to  the  eleven  miles  of  the  Roman  tables. 
The  distance  of  thirteen  miles  from  Gadda  to  Philadel- 
phia would  correspond  to  the  distance  between  Amman 
and  Yajuz.  This  name,  further,  is  only  slightly  changed 
from  the  Roman  name,  and  may  be  regarded  as  identical 
with  it. 

The  road  that  comes  down  from  Damascus  we  can  trace 
to  Canatha  (Kimawat).  But  twenty  miles  from  Canatha 
was  Rhose,  and  forty  miles  from  Rhose  was  Hatita 
(Hadid).  Rhose,  if  the  name  is  properly  given,  is  unknown. 
The  other  road  came  down  from  Gadara  to  Capitolias, 
sixteen  miles;  thence  to  Adraa,  sixteen  miles;  thence  to 
Bostris,  twenty-four  miles  ;  thence  to  Thantia,  twenty-four 
miles ;  thence  to  Hatita,  nine  miles.  The  two  roads  cannot 
have  been  identical.  The  first  probably  went  to  the 
east  and  south  of  Bostra,  and  it  would  be  interesting  to 
trace  out  this  route,  since  that  region  has  never  yet  been 
explored. 


278  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Camp  at  Es  Salt,  Thxirsday,  April  20,  187G. 

We  were  four  hours  yesterday  in  reaching  this  place 
from  Yajuz.  We  spent  some  time  in  examining  the  ruins 
of  Jubeiha,  which  are  extensive,  showing  a  Roman  town 
of  importance.  Very  much  of  it  appears  to  be  buried 
beneath  the  surface.  The  place  commands  a  wdde  pros- 
pect in  all  directions.  Some  distance  beyond  this  place, 
Gerash  and  the  wady  leading  south  from  it  are  in  plain 
sight,  and  at  the  same  point  we  were  looking  down  upon 
a  beautiful  plain  called  Buka,  or,  as  the  Arabs  pronounce 
it,  Buja,  on  which  are  the  ruins  of  Safut.  Later,  we 
passed  a  ruin  called  El  Hemmer,  crossed  a  fine  plateau 
between  two  deep  wadies,  and,  about  two  and  one-half 
miles  before  reaching  Es  Salt,  passed  another  ruin,  called 
Es  Sirru. 

After  arriving,  the  rest  of  the  day  was  spent  in  settling 
with  our  guides,  and  in  overhauling  and  packing  the 
Society's  jjroperty,  which  has  been  stored  here  for  a  long 
time,  and  which  we  must  send  to  Beirut.  For  this  purpose 
we  sent  to  Jerusalem  for  animals  to  transport  it,  while 
Dr.  Thomson  has  made  his  plans  to  go  to  the  Damieh 
ford  and  Nablils,  thence  to  Jaffa,  and  thence  to  Beirut  by 
steamer.  His  son  Henry  will  accompany  us  north  tkrough 
the  Gilead  hills  and  the  East  Jordan  country  to  the  Huleh 
Lake,  whence  we  shall  go  across  to  the  sea-coast,  and  thus 
home. 

The  Doctor  accordingly  left  us  to-day,  with  my  outline 
reports  to  the  president  of  the  Society  in  New  York,  and 
such  letters  to  friends  as  we  had  time  to  wi-ite  late  last 
night,  after  a  hard  day's  work.  Van  Dyck  has  spent  the 
entire  day  in  repacking  oiu"  natural  history  collection,  while 
I,  with  Mr.  Thomson,  have  finished  arranging  the  mule-loads 
that  arc  to  be  taken  to  Beirut,  and  the  rest  of  the  day  we 


GILEAB.  279 

spent  on  Jebel  Osha,  perhaps  the  most  sightly  place  in 
Palestine  after  Monnt  Hermou.  Mount  Hermon,  Safed, 
Tabor,  the  hUIs  about  Nazareth,  those  of  Naphtali,  Ephraini 
and  Manasseh,  Little  Hermon,  Ebal  and  Gerizim,  the  hills 
behind  Tiberias  and  the  plateau  which  slopes  towards  Hat- 
tin,  Neby  Samuel,  and  Masada,  are  in  sight,  and  in  fact 
nearly  every  prominent  point  in  the  unbroken  range  of 
mountains  from  Jebel  es  Sheikh  clear  around  to  the  south 
end  of  the  Dead  Sea.  All  the  Jordan  valley  is  at  our  feet; 
the  plain  of  Beisan,  the  teUs  at  the  mouth  of  Wady  'Ajlun 
and  Wady  Zerka,  all  the  Nimrin  and  the  Sliittim  plains, 
and  the  tells  wjiOM  them,  the  mouth  of  the  Jordan,  the  entii'e 
Dead  Sea,  including  the  extreme  south  end  and  El  Lisan, 
the  rolling  country  of  Moab,  or  the  "  Mishor"  of  the  Bible, 
the  hills  about  Amman,  the  Hauran,  and  the  mountains 
of  Grilead,  are  all  in  full  view.  In  this  wide  and  compre- 
hensive prospect  the  eye  sweeps  over  the  country  to  the 
north,  the  west,  the  south,  and  the  east.  If  one  utterly 
ignorant  of  the  Bible  record  should  go  east  of  the  Jordan 
to  find  the  point  commanding  the  most  extensive  view 
on  all  sides,  he  would  select  Jebel  Osha.  It  is  eight 
hundred  to  one  thousand  feet  higher  than  Mount  Nebo 
itseK.  '•^  The  hiU  over  against  Jericho  "  (Deut.  xxxiv.,  1) 
could  just  as  well  be  this  place  as  Jebel  Neba,  and  this 
would  meet  the  conditions  of  the  thirty-fourth  chapter  of 
Deuteronomy  better  than  any  other  point.  These  are 
claims  or  facts  which  belong  to  this  mountain,  independent 
of  any  claim  of  Jebel  Neba  to  be  the  spot  where  Moses  stood. 


Camp  at  Wady  Zerka,  Friday,  April  21,  1876. 

The  weather  to-day  and  this  evening  has  been  delightful. 
We  were  five  hours  and  ten  minutes  in  reaching  this  place, 
near  Mushra'a  Nusraniyet,  or  "Crossing  of  the  Clii-istian 


280  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Woman/'  on  tlie  direct  road  from  Es  Salt  to  Burma  and 
Jebel  'Ajlnn.  There  are  a  good  many  roads  leading  from 
Es  Salt  in  different  directions,  and  I  have  been  over  every 
one  of  them.  Those  leading  in  a  northerly  direction  are 
the  best,  and  the  country  which  slopes  from  Jebel  Osha 
towards  Wady  Zerka  is  rich,  affording  excellent  pastur- 
age, and  could  soon  be  covered  with  forests  if  they  were 
(cultivated,  or  even  if  the  natural  growth  were  not  ruined 
by  the  natives  and  the  goats.  This  section  is,  perhaps,  six 
miles  from  north  to  south,  and  eight  or  ten  miles  from  east 
to  west.  We  saw  on  our  way  only  one  large  encampment 
of  Arabs,  near  which  we  passed.  In  two  hours  and  thirty 
minutes  from  Es  Salt  we  reached  the  'Ain  and  Khurbet 
'Allan,  where  are  the  ruins  of  a  considerable  modern  town 
with  no  special  marks  of  antiquity.  Abf)ut  the  fountain 
are  some  large,  thrifty  fig-trees,  loaded  now  with  green  figs. 
There  is  quite  a  large  cave  in  the  rocks,  from  which  the 
fountain  flows. 

We  are  again  on  the  Zerka,  or  Jabbok,  a  stream  along 
which  I  like  to  camp.  The  valley  is  narrow  at  this  point, 
and  not  far  from  us  are  the  ruins  of  a  miU.  One- 
fcmrth  of  a  mile  above  us  are  some  Arabs,  Avho,  besides 
their  tents,  have  C(jnstructed  booths  of  the  reeds  which 
grow  here  in  abundance.  Among  the  oaks  and  pines  of 
Jebel  Osha  our  men  secured  some  blackbirds,  which  exist 
in  this  country,  but  which  we  have  never  yet  been  able  to 
secure  in  all  our  wanderings,  and  they  appear  to  be  a  rather 
scarce  bird. 

Camp  at   Irbib,    Monday,  April    24,  1876. 

From  the  Zerka  we  reached  Burma  in  one  hour  and 
forty -five  minutes.  It  is  quite  a  hard  climb,  but  the  scenery 
is  varied,  and  in  some  sections  picturesque.  We  passed 
many  fine   oHve-groves,  and  beyond  the  \dUage  is  mucli 


GILEAB. 


281 


wooded  country  abounding  in  old  oaks  and  pines.  I 
noticed  a  large  number  of  pine-trees  that  had  been  killed 
by  burning.  Here  in  this  romantic  region  are  dells,  nooks, 
wild  rocks,  delightful  shade,  and  the  path  winding  among 
ancient  trees  in  an  ancient  forest.  Burma  is  a  consider- 
able village,  with  a  fine  view  of  the  Zerka  vaUey,  and  of 
the  mountains  to  the  south-east.  A  little  distance  farther 
along  we  saw  Jazazi,  Hemta,  and  Neby  Hud,  while  Gerash 


Triumphal    Arch    at   Gerash.      [From    Due  de    Luynes.] 

was  hidden  from  sight  by  some  low  hills.  We  could  see, 
also,  Wady  Zerka,  where  it  sweeps  up  from  the  south  and 
bends  west,  and  also  Wady  Gerash,  as  it  goes  east  and  joins 
the  Zerka.  The  \'illages  Dibbin,  Sakib,  Et  Tikkiti,  and 
Reimiin,  some  of  them  in  ruins,  were  in  sight,  and  the  road 
to  Gerash  was  picturesque  and  easy. 

It  is  no  minor  event  in  one's  life  to  visit  a  ruined  and 
deserted  city,  where  over  three  hundred  columns  are  still 
standing  amid  fallen  temples   and  other  splendid  monu- 


282  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

merits  of  a  former  prosperous  age.  It  is  difficult  to  decide 
which  is  the  most  attractive  feature  of  Gerash,  its  forest  of 
columns,  its  ruined  buildings,  or  its  beautiful  situation. 
It  lies  on  both  sides  of  a  stream  which  flows  through  the 
city  from  north  to  south,  and  which  is  lined  with  a  thick 
growth  of  oleanders.  These  bushes  grow  tall  and  rank, 
and,  when  in  bloom,  they  present  a  blaze  of  beauty  such  as 
is  seldom  beheld,  in  Syria  at  least.  The  main  street,  which 
is  paved,  runs  along  the  west  bank  of  the  stream,  and,  at  a 
point  near  the  middle  of  the  city,  is  crossed  by  another,  run- 
ning east  and  west.  The  first  is  a  mile  or  more  in  length, 
and  was  originally  lined  on  both  sides  with  columns.  It 
came  from  the  south,  and  on  it,  about  half  a  mile  before 
reaching  the  city,  stood  a  triumphal  arch,  about  forty  feet 
high,  with  a  small  passage  on  each  side  of  the  main 
entrance,  and  niches  for  statues.  The  carving  and  orna- 
mental work  upon  it  were  rich  and  beautiful.  Near  by  is 
a  structure  which  has  been  called  a  "naumachia."  It  has 
seats  or  steps,  and  there  appear  to  have  been  means  for 
filling  or  flooding  the  place  with  water  from  the  stream 
ah'eady  mentioned. 

We  enter  the  city  by  a  gate.  A  wall  encircled  the  town, 
portions  of  which  are  still  perfect.  It  displays  superior 
engineering  skill,  and  was  a  work  of  great  strength.  On 
our  left,  as  we  enter  the  place,  stood  a  temple,  and  close 
beside  it  a  theatre  which  would  seat  six  thousand  people. 
In  front  of  these  is  a  round,  open  space,  surrounded  by 
columns,  and  from  this  point  begins  the  street  running 
north  through  the  city,  as  already  described.  Chui'ches, 
cathedrals,  baths,  temples,  still  another  theatre,  and  the 
remains  of  elegant  structures  of  which  the  purpose  is  not 
known,  make  up  the  variety  of  architectural  grandeur, 
now  crumbled,  of  course,  which  one  meets  with  in  trav- 
ersing this  City  of  Columns.     At  some  points  along  the 


GILEAD. 


283 


paved  road  appear  the  ruts  which  were  worn  by  chariot 
wheels.  The  wall  about  the  city  must  have  been  three  or 
more  miles  in  length.  The  material  of  which  the  columns 
and  buildings  were  made  is  chiefly  limestone,  obtained  in 
the  immediate  region.     Occasionally,  however,  some  basalt 


Temple   of   the   Sun    at    Gerash. 

appears,  and  also  syenite.  The  columns  which  lined  the 
street  were  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  apart,  and  supported  an 
entablature.  Among  the  ruins,  Doric,  Ionic,  and  Corin- 
thian capitals  are  seen.  From  either  the  temple  or  the 
theatre  situated  near  the  southern  gate,  one  can  overlook 
almost  the  entire  city,  which,  in  its  prosperous  days,  must 


284  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

have  presented  a  sight  of  unusual  magnificence.  Perhaps 
its  grandest  object  was  the  Temple  of  the  Sun,  situated  in 
the  western  half  of  the  town  and  somewhat  to  the  north 
of  the  centre.  Its  imposing  columns  were  forty  feet  high, 
and  six  feet  in  diameter.  They  are  the  largest  in  the  place. 
I  collected  a  number  of  inscriptions  here  which  were  net 
previously  known.  Gerash  is  almost  unknown  to  history  ; 
it  belonged  to  the  Decapolis,  was  taken  by  Alexander  Jan- 
nseus,  and  even  in  the  meagre  notices  which  we  have  of  it, 
a  few  names  of  its  eminent  men  have  been  preserved,  such 
as  Aristo  the  rhetorician,  Cerycus  the  sophist,  Plato  the 
advocate,  and  Nicomachus  the  Neoplatonic  philosopher, 
who  flourished  in  the  time  of  the  Emperor  Trajan,  and 
left  works  on  "  Pythagorean  Arithmetic  "  and  on  "  Har- 
mony.'' (For  these  ancient  authors,  see  Ritter,  "  Erd- 
kunde,"  xv.,  p.  1093.) 

At  present  there  are  one  or  two  mills  on  the  stream,  but, 
except  when  these  are  in  operation,  the  place  has  no  inhab- 
itants. Walking  about  this  ancient  city  by  day,  and 
especially  by  night,  the  silence,  the  desolation,  the  mystery 
connected  with  its  origin,  and  its  past,  fill  the  mind  with 
sensations  which  cannot  be  imparted  to  another. 

This  has  been  an  important  city,  and,  in  my  judgment, 
there  are  good  reasons  for  considering  it  as  identical  with 
Ramoth  Gilead. 

Mahanaim  and  Ramoth  Gilead,  two  cities  in  the  north 
part  of  the  territory  of  Gad,  were  with  their  ''  suburbs  " 
assigned  as  Levitical  cities  (Josh,  xxi.,  38).  Heshbon 
and  Jazer  were  the  Levitical  cities  assigned  from  the 
southern  part  of  Gad.  Ramoth  Gilead  was  also  a  city 
of  refuge  (Josh,  xx,,  8 ;  xxi.,  38 ;  Deut.  iv.,  43),  the  mid- 
dle one  of  the  three  set  apart  for  that  purpose  east  of 
the  Jordan.  Ramoth  Gilead  was  not  a  boundary  city  of 
Gad,  unless  we  make  it  identical  with  Ramath   Mizpeh; 


GILEAD. 


285 


hence  it  may  have  been  either  on  or  near  the  boundary, 
or  at  some  distance  from  it.  "  Ramoth  in  Gilead  "  appears 
in  the  days  of  the  division  of  the  land  under  Joshua, 
and  in  this  form  it   occurs  four  times.     It  is  mentioned 


Niche    in    the    Remains    of   an    Elegant   Edifice  on    the 
Long    Street  at   Gerash. 

once  in  the  time  of  Solomon  (I.  Kings  iv.,  13)  as  a  com- 
missariat station.  Here,  and  in  the  following  history,  it 
is  called  Ramoth  Gilead,  except  twice  where  an  abbrevi- 
ated form  is  used  —  Ramah  (II.  Kings  viii.,  29  ;  II. 
Chron.  xxii.,  6).  In  the  history  of  Ahab,  Ahaziah,  and 
Joram,  it  is  frequently  mentioned,  when  the  Jews 
attempted  to  take  the  place  from  the  Syrians   (I.  Kings 


286  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

xxii.,  3-29;  11.  Kings  viii.,  28;  ix.,  1,  4,  14;  II.  Chron. 
xviii.,  2-28;  xxii.,  5).  Ahab  was  wounded  there,  so  that 
he  died  the  same  evening.  Jehoram,  his  son,  was 
wounded  there  at  a  later  date,  and  went  to  Jezreel  to 
be  healed.  While  at  the  latter  place,  Jehu,  who  held 
Ramoth  Gilead  in  his  absence,  revolted,  went  to  Jezreel, 
slew  Jehoram,  and  assumed  the  government  of  Israel. 
Hazael,  the  Syrian  king,  seems  to  have  pushed  his  con- 
quest until  nearly,  or  quite,  all  Eastern  Palestine  was 
conquered  (II.  Kings  x,,  32,  33). 

Josephus  gives  a  pretty  full  account  of  these  two  wars 
against  the  Syrians,  that  under  Ahab  against  Benhadad, 
and  that,  at  a  later  time,  under  Jehoram  (Joram)  and 
Jehu  against  Hazel  ("Antiquities,"  viii.,  15,  1-6;  ix.,  6, 
1-3),  but  no  new  facts  are  given.  "The  city  Ramoth,  in 
GUead,"  and  "  Ramoth,  a  city  of  Gilead "  (twice)  is  his 
manner  of  designating  the  place  ("Antiquities,"  viii., 
15,  3,  5;  ix.,  6,  1).  The  words  here  put  into  the  mouth  of 
Micaiah,  who  was  thought  to  prophesy  against  Ahab,  are 
that  he  (King  Ahab)  "  would  be  slain  at  three  days' 
journey  distance  "  from  Samaria.  This  is  a  general  indica- 
tion of  the  distance  between  Samaria  and  Ramoth  Gilead, 
i.  e.,  the  place  where  the  prophecy  was  uttered,  and  the 
place  where  Ahab  was  killed. 

In  the  detailed  account  of  the  conference  of  Ahab  and 
Jehoshaphat  held  at  Samaria,  about  attacking  Ramoth 
GUead,  they  speak  seven  times  of  going  there,  and  in  four 
cases  use  the  phrase  "  go  up "  (some  form  of  rkv).  This 
seems  to  imply  a  place  in  the  hills  or  highlands  east  of  the 
Jordan. 

It  was  accessible  by  a  good  road  from  Samaria,  for 
people  come  and  go  in  chariots  (I.  Kings  xxii.,  II.  Kings 
ix.,  II.  Chron.  xviii.).  At  the  period  of  Jewish  history 
under  consideration,  Ramoth  Gilead  was  a  place  of  great 


GILEAD.  287 

strength  and  importance.  It  might  be  regarded  as  the  key 
to  Eastern  Palestine. 

This  at  no  time  eonld  be  said  of  Es  Salt,  which  Burck- 
hardt  and  many  others  since  have  claimed  to  represent 
Ramoth  Gilead. 

In  both  of  the  wars  for  its  possession  the  forces  on 
each  side  were  large,  and  chariots  were  extensively  used 
(I.  Kings  xxii.,  31-35;  II.  Kings  ix.,  16).  Some  place 
must  be  selected  where  this  could  be  possible.  It  could 
not  have  been  possible  at  Es  Salt,  unless  the  fighting  was 
all  done  six  or  more  miles  north  of  the  city.  By  placing 
Ramoth  G-ilead  at  Es  Salt,  we  should  locate  it  in  the  middle 
of  G-ad's  territory,  which  does  not  seem  appropriate. 

A  very  serious  objection  to  regarding  Es  Salt  as  Ramoth 
Gilead  is  the  fact  that  the  latter  was  a,  commissariat  station. 
Geber,  or  Ben  Geber,  was  stationed  in  Ramoth  Gilead 
(I.  Kings  iv.,  13).  ^'  To  him  the  towns  of  Jair  (Havoth- 
jair)  the  son  of  Manasseh  (which  is  in  Gilead)  [/.  c]  to  him 
the  region  fhevelj  of  Argob,  which  is  in  Bashan,  threescore 
great  cities  with  walls  and  brazen  bars."  The  phrase 
"which  is  in  Gilead"  refers  to  the  half -Manasseh  east  of 
the  Jordan  ;  while  "the  towns  of  Jair  "  and  "  the  region  of 
Ai'gob"  are  synonymous  or  coordinate  sentences.  Practi- 
cally Ben  Geber  had  the  eastern  half -Manasseh  as  his  com- 
missariat district.  But  it  must  have  been  most  convenient 
for  him  to  reside  in  Ramoth  Gilead,  which  belonged  to 
Gad,  rather  than  in  any  city  of  half -Manasseh.  Es  Salt 
would  have  been  too  far  south,  and  oif  the  main  road 
leading  from  Bashan  and  Gilead  to  Western  Palestine,  and 
in  other  respects  unsuitable  for  such  an  important  station. 

The  Babylonian  Talmud  (Maccoth  9?>)  states  with 
regard  to  the  cities  of  refuge  that  they  were  located 
three  on  the  east  and  three  on  the  west  of  the  Jordan, 
in  such  a  way  as  to  be  opposite  each  other.     A  tradition 


288 


EAST    OF   THE  JORDAN. 


among  the  ancient  Jews  witli  regard  to  sucli  important 
cities  ought  to  be  correct.  It  proves  to  be  approximately 
so  with  regard  to  Hebron  and  Bezer.  And  it  will  be 
correct  with  regard  to  Shechem  and  Ramoth  GUead,  if 
the  latter  is  placed  at  Gerash. 


Temple  at  Gerash.      Near  the  South  Gate. 

In  Hosea  vi.,  8,  we  find  Gilead  mentioned  as  a  city : 
"  Gilead  is  a  city  of  them  that  work  iniquity,  polluted 
with  blood."  The  majority  of  commentators  say  (among 
them,  for  example,  Keil  and  Delitzsch)  that  '^  Gilead  is 
not  a  city,  for  no  such  city  is  mentioned  in  the  Old  Testa- 
ment.'' We  consider  it  best,  however,  to  take  the  state- 
ment of  Hosea  in  a  literal  sense.  Wiinsche,  on  this 
passage,  says :  "  Gilead  is  certainly  to  be  taken  here  as 
the  name  of  a  city."  The  marginal  date  of  this  passage  is 
B.  C.  780.  We  find  Jabesh  Gilead  referred  to  by  the  nam(^ 
"  Jabesh"  alone;  and  Ramoth  Gilead  by  "Ramah"  alone. 
The  last  notice  of  Ramoth  Gilead  is  B.  V.  884  (IT.  Kings 


GILEAB.  289 

viii.,  28).  During  the  century  that  intervened  between 
these  two  dates  it  is  quite  probable  that  Ramoth  Gilead 
had  come  to  be  spoken  of  as  simply  Grilead.  It  is  natui*al 
to  suppose  that  the  name  of  a  province  woidd  become 
attached  to  its  chief  city,  or  to  one  of  its  chief  cities.  In 
verses  eight  and  nine,  the  allusion  is  to  Gdead  and 
Sheehem,  probably  opposite  each  other,  and  in  close  con- 
nection, as  cities  of  refuge ;  they  should  be  free  from 
murder  and  violence ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  they  have 
become  the  refuge  of  mui'derers  and  evil-doers,  and  the 
way  between  them  has  become  unsafe  by  the  fact  that 
they  are  infested  with  outlaws  and  highway  robbers.  It 
had  been  commanded  that  the  way  to  the  cities  of  refuge 
should  be  kept  free  (Dent,  xix.,  3). 

Jerome  (Commentary  on  Obadiah  19)  says :  "  Cunctam 
possidebit  Arabiam,  quae  prius  vocabatur  Gralaad,  et  nunc 
Gerasa  nuneupatur."  Gerasa  has  here  succeeded  to  what 
was  once  caUed  GUead,  whether  province  or  city.  Saadia 
(tenth  century),  in  his  Ai'abic  version  of  the  Penta- 
teuch, renders  Gilead  by  " Balad-Jerash."  Parehi  says: 
"  About  a  day's  journey  north  of  Heshbon  runs  the  river 
Jabbok,  called  'Wady  el  Serka';  half  a  day's  journey  stiU. 
further  north  stands  GUead  with  its  mountains"  (Benj.  of 
Tudela,  ii.,  p.  409).  Again  he  says:  "East  of  the  Jordan,  a 
day  and  a  half's  journey  in  a  southerly  direction  from 
Bethsan,  stands  Gilead,  at  present  Jerash"  fihid.,  p.  405). 
Zunz  adds  in  a  note :  "  Gerash,  cna,  is  perhaps  an  abbre- 
viation of  Jegar-Sahadutha,  Nmnn©  -la-*,  which  is  the  ancient 
appellation  of  Gilead  (Gen.  xxxi.,  47),  and  is  also  mentioned 
in  the  old  list  of  frontiers  of  the  Thosephtha." 

The  Midrash  on  Samuel  states  that  "  Gerash  "  is  "  Gilead" 
(Neubauer,  p.  250). 

About  six  mUes  south  of  Dra'a  is  a  place  called  Remtheh, 
and  this  could  easily  be  a  remnant  of  Ramoth.  There  is 
13 


290  EAST   OF   THE  JORDAN. 

here  a  Adllage  with  a  Turkisli  garrison,  but  very  few  signs 
of  ancient  ruins.  It  would  be  altogether  too  far  north  for 
Ramoth  Gilead.  As  names  frequently  repeated  themselves 
in  different  sections  of  the  country,  it  would  not  be  surpris- 
ing if  there  were  a  Ramoth  in  half-Manasseh. 

In  the  case  of  Ramoth  Gilead,  Eusebius  and  Jerome  are 
at  vai-iance  in  the  direction  in  which  they  place  it  from 
Philadelphia,  Eusebius  making  it  ivest  and  Jerome  easf, 
both  agreeing,  however,  in  the  distance,  namely,  fifteen 
miles.  We  would  suggest  as  an  explanation  of  the  direc- 
tion here  given,  that  a  Roman  road  ran  from  Philadelphia 
(Amman)  in  a  westerly  direction,  and  another  in  an  easterly 
direction.  Both  of  these  roads  we  have  traced.  Possibly 
both  led  to  Gerash.  If  we  could  read  Tcappa  for  iota, 
twenty-five  miles  instead  of  fifteen,  the  testimony  of  both 
might  then  refer  to  Gerash. 

We  suggest  that  Ramoth  Gilead  was  not  identical  with 
any  place  bearing  the  name  of  Mizpeh  in  that  region ;  and 
further,  that  it  was  identical  with  the  present  Gerash.  1. 
This  place  would  be  three  days'  distance  from  Samaria  (if 
Josephus's  statement  is  to  be  accepted,  ''  Antiquities,"  viii., 
15,  4).  2.  It  would  be  suitable  for  a  city  of  refuge,  because 
it  was  on  one  of  the  main  routes  which  would  be  kept  open 
(according  to  the  command  in  Deut.  xix.,  3).  3.  For  the 
same  reason  it  would  be  an  appropriate  point  at  which  to 
station  a  commissariat  officer  who  was  to  command  Eastern 
Gilead  and  Bashan.  4.  Here  chariots  could  be  used,  as 
we  learn  they  were  extensively,  in  two  notable  campaigns 
already  mentioned.  5.  This  would  verify  the  ancient  Jew- 
ish testimony  respecting  the  cities  of  refuge,  that  Ramoth 
Gilead  was  opposite  Shechem.  G.  It  would  also  confirm 
the  Jewish  tradition  that  Gerash  is  identical  with  Gilead. 


CHAPTER   XXII. 
The  Decapolis. 

Blessing  of  fountains  and  watercourses.  Conversation  with  natives  at 
'Ain  Jemieh.  Old  soldiers.  Beautiful  country.  Fertility.  Forests. 
Alas,  but  for  the  Turk!  Plateau  of  the  Hauran.  Irbid.  Inscriptions. 
Cyclopean  walls.  Angles.  Ancient  pottery.  Collecting  names. 
Site  of  Arbela.  Beit  er  Ras,  or  Capitolias.  Fine  ruins.  The  Decap- 
olis. Features  of  the  country.  Um  Keis,  or  Gadara.  El  Hamma 
revisited.  Fording  the  Jordan.  A  priest  bathing  in  the  sacred  river. 
Travellers  at  Tiberias.  Irrigation  of  Gennesaret.  The  round 
fountain.  A  wedding  procession.  Surprised  by  a  friend  from 
China.  Excavations  near  Khan  Minieh.  Extreme  heat.  Unhealthy 
camping-ground. 

SUNDAY  we  had  a  day  of  enjoyable  rest  under  the 
oMve  and  walnut  trees,  and  by  the  fountains  and 
streams  at  'Ain  Jenneh.  I  do  not  wonder  that  the  water- 
courses of  this  land  have  always  been  prized,  and  that  the 
Hebrew  wi'iters  should  mention  them  with  so  much  pleas- 
ure. They  are  sources  of  delight  and  of  blessing.  The  day 
was  charming,  and  as  I  sat  by  the  fountain  a  great  many 
people  gathered  about  me,  and  I  conversed  with  them  for 
two  hours.  One  of  the  men  had  been  a  soldier  in  the 
Crimean  war.  He  was  now  old  and  gray,  had  picked  up 
some  Turkish  phrases,  and  was  acquainted  with  Stambul 
and  other  places  aboiit  the  Black  Sea.     Another  had  been 


292  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

a  soldier  under  Ibrahim  Pasha,  and  his  story  also  was 
interesting,  although  he  had  not  seen  any  very  trjdng 
service.  He  was  able  to  wi-ite,  and  in  my  note-book  he 
wrote  some  sentiment  in  Arabic.  The  people  there  were 
very  civil,  and  even  the  dogs  did  not  seem  half  so  noisy  as 
those  at  Es  Salt. 

The  thermometer  showed  58^  at  7.30  A.  M.,  77°  at  12.30 
P.  M.,  71°  at  6.30  P.  M. 

In  going  from  'Ain  Jenneh  to  Irbid,  we  were  six  hours 
and  ten  minutes.  The  thermometer  showed  53°  at  6.30 
A.  M.,  at  'Ain  Jenneh,  85©  at  3  P.  M.,  at  Irbid,  and  73°  at 
7  P.  M.  During  the  middle  of  the  day  the  weather  has 
been  quite  warm. 

We  passed  several  ruins,  two  large  ponds  called  Hamra, 
in  which  the  water  is  of  a  very  reddish  muddy  color,  and  in 
three  hours  from  the  time  of  starting  we  crossed  the  road 
leading  to  Tibneh.  In  five  hours  and  ten  minutes  we 
passed  through  the  double  village  of  Eidun,  and  at  2.10 
P.  M.  reached  Irbid  and  pitched  our  camp  on  the  hill  near 
the  modern  castle.  For  the  first  four  hours  one  coidd  hardly 
see  in  any  country  a  more  delightful  region  through  which 
to  travel.  It  is  utterly  unlike,  in  every  respect,  the  country 
which  travellers  usually  see  in  Western  Palestine.  Here  are 
old  forests.  The  oaks  are  covered  with  moss,  birds  abound 
among  the  trees,  the  road  is  broad  and  free  from  stone. 
The  views  to  the  west  of  the  Jordan  valley  and  the  moun- 
tains beyond,  of  Jebel  esh  Sheikh  directly  before  us  in  the 
north,  gleaming  in  the  sun,  and  to  the  east  of  the  ancient 
Bashan  plain,  are  wide  and  magnificent,  and  the  wheat 
fields  and  other  marks  of  fertility  everyrv'here  make  me 
forget  that  I  am  in  poverty-stricken  Palestine.  This 
country  is  one  of  the  most  diversified  in  the  world ;  the 
Phoenician  coast,  the  mountain  range  of  Western  Palestine, 
the  Jordan  valley,  with  its  deep,  strange  chasm,  the  hills  of 


THE  DECAPOLIS.  293 

Gilead,  and  the  Hauran  plain,  make  up  a  variety  of 
scenery  and  climate  such  as  perhaps  is  not  elsewhere  on 
the  globe  crowded  together  within  the  same  number  of 
square  miles.  If  it  could  only  be  redeemed  from  the  power 
of  the  Turk  — whose  only  mission  here  is  to  rob  the  inhab- 
itants, and  to  ruin  and  devastate  the  soil — and  placed 
under  a  good  government,  it  might  reach  again  its  ancient 
condition  of  prosperity. 

The  last  two  hours  of  our  journey,  after  we  had  descended 
gradually  from  the  hills,  were  across  a  level  country,  a 
portion  of  the  great  plateau  to  which  the  Hauran  plain, 
which  stretches  to  the  east  of  us,  belongs.  For  the  last 
hour  the  basalt  began  to  appear,  and  evidence  of  its  exist- 
ence increased  as  we  approached  Irbid.  Here  the  sarcoph- 
agi that  are  scattered  about  and  much  of  the  building 
material  are  of  this  kind  of  stone. 

Irbid,  so  far  as  the  village  is  concerned,  is  a  small  place 
on  the  south  side  of  the  large  hiU  or  mound  where  our 
camp  is  pitched.  There  are  here  fine  Roman  ruins,  and 
some  evident  marks  of  very  great  antiquity.  On  a 
lintel,  still  in  position,  of  a  small,  well-preserved  Roman 
building,  which  may  have  been  a  temple  or  a  tomb,  was 
an  inscription  within  a  nicely  carved  wreath,  perfectly 
round.  It  is  in  three  lines,  each  containing  but  a  single 
word,  and  the  last  has  been  mutilated  in  its  second, 
fourth,  and  fifth  letters,  as  follows:  Mera  nav-a  Tuvmm. 
("  After  aU,  this!") 

On  a  modern  building  near  that  just  mentioned,  a  long 
stone  had  been  taken  from  the  ruins  and  used  as  a  lintel. 
It  had  an  inscription,  and  the  owner  had  turned  that  face 
of  the  stone  down  so  that  it  was  directly  over  one's  head 
as  one  entered  the  house.  The  door  was  low,  and  we 
were  obliged  to  stoop  in  order  to  pass  through  it.  The 
inscription  was  partly  covered  with  plaster,  which  I  was 


294  EA81'  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

allowed  to  clean  off.  It  was  in  seven  lines  and  reads  as 
follows :  STOV^  LE  liaraKTiaiv  Ti]g  ttoXeo  Aovkio(;  Aourjriog  Maiop 
rijv  orr]?t.7]v  avro  ovv  ro)  ev  avrr]  hvtjuiu)  eTToirjasv.  ("  In  the 
fifteenth  year  of  the  founding  of  the  city,  Lucius  Dometius 
Major  made  this  monument  to  himself,  with  this  inscrip- 
tion upon  it.") 

The  Cyclopean  walls  about  this  hill  are  a  great  curiosity. 
They  are  in  my  judgment  relics  of  an  ancient  people 
who  once  occupied  this  region,  and  as  but  few  of  them  exist 
cast  of  the  Jordan  vaUey,  they  are,  on  that  account,  aU  the 
more  interesting.  These  here  are  formed,  for  the  most 
part,  of  boulders  laid  into  walls.  In  one  section  I  counted 
five  courses,  which  reached  altogether  a  height  of  twelve 
or  fifteen  feet,  and  elsewhere  I  counted  three  courses,  which 
reached  nearly  the  same  height.  In  a  few  places  the  walls 
are  formed  of  great  blocks  of  unhewn  stone  instead  of 
l)oulders,  and  these  vary  from  ten  to  eighteen  feet  in 
length  and  are  of  proportionate  width  and  thickness.  At 
certain  points  large  foundations  project  from  the  main 
wall,  in  at  least  one  or  two  cases  for  sixty  feet.  These  are 
evidently  the  substructures  of  strong  towers.  It  is  in  these 
foundations  that  the  largest  stones  appear.  The  most  per- 
fect section  of  this  ancient  wall  is  at  present  on  the  east 
side  of  the  mound,  and  extends  unbroken  for  over  three 
hundred  feet.  On  the  mound  I  have  noticed  two  very  deep 
weUs,  one  of  which  is  dry,  and  is  about  fifty  feet  deep, 
while  the  other,  which  I  saw,  has  a  great  deal  of  water  in 
it.  At  the  foot  of  the  mound,  on  the  south-east  corner,  is 
another  well,  now  the  one  chiefly  used,  I  judge,  by  the 
multitude  of  people  that  come  here  for  water.  It  has  an 
arch  which  is  built  into  the  hill-side  over  its  mouth,  which 
is  reached,  after  the  arch  is  entered,  by  a  flight  of  a  dozen 
steps.  The  well  itself  is  very  deep.  There  is  said  (by  the 
natives)  to  be  an   inscription  here,  but  I   did  not  find  it. 


THE  DECAPOLIS. 


295 


At  niglit,  wlien  the  flocks  came  from 
the  fields  to  be  watered,  tlie  scene 
about  this  well  was  lively  and  ex- 
citing. 

Tabor,  Nazareth  with  its  new  Eng- 
lish school  building,  Safed,  Hermon, 
the  Hauran  plain  and  mountains, 
Salchad  castle,  and  many  other 
prominent  points  in  the  country, 
are  in  full  view  from  our  present 
camp.  I  have  taken  angles  as  fol- 
lows :  Jebel  esh  Sheikh,  6^^ ;  Salchad 
castle,  100°;  Khauasari,  139^°  ^  Ta- 
bor, 294p. 

In  the  coui"se  of  some  excavations 
made  here  for  building  purposes, 
articles  of  pottery,  and  even  glass- 
ware, have  been  dug  up,  and  of  the 
former  I  secured  a  single  piece.  It 
has  one  handle  and  was  designed  to 
be  stuck  into  the  ground  or  sus- 
pended, doubtless  for  cooling  wine 
or  milk.  Its  diameter  is  three  and 
a  half  inches,  and  its  height  is 
fifteen  inches.  The  width  of  the 
mouth  clear  is  one  inch. 

There  are  at  present  some  soldiers 
living  here  in  tents.  This  is  their 
head-quarters  when  in  this  region, 
except  when  they  are  in  their  castle 
at  Remtheh,  not  far  distant. 

With   our   guide    who  had   come 
from  'Ain  Jenneh,  and  who  could  read  and  write,  besides 
being  a  very  intelligent  man,  together  with  the  help  of  a 


ipi'"! 


Jar  from  Irbid.     [One-third   size.J 


296  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

native,  I  collected  the  names  of  eighteen  places  about 
Irbid,  and  had  them  written  down  according  to  the  spelling 
of  these  men,  assisted,  of  course,  by  my  companions, 
Messrs.  Thomson  and  Van  Dyck.  We  hear  also  of  inscrip- 
tions and  carved  stones  in  many  directions,  but  we  cannot 
now  visit  them. 

I  questioned  these  men  about  roads,  and  if  there  were 
any  remains  of  ancient  roads.  The  substance  of  their 
testimony  is  to  the  effect  that  there  is  such  a  road  from 
Um  Keis  to  Beit  er  Ras,  which  goes  thence  to  the 
Hauran.  Then,  Arab  fashion,  they  testify  that  this  is 
on  arches,  and  is  for  water ;  that  Pharaoh  brought 
water  by  this  road.  I  suppose  that  these  men  were  con- 
founding two  things.  Both  a  road  and  an  aqueduct 
existed  here  in  former  times ;  a  road  led  from  Gadara 
to  the  east,  as  they  testify ;  also  an  aqueduct  started 
from  near  DiUi,  north  of  Sheikh  Miskin,  and  ran  far  to 
the  south,  in  order  to  pass  around  the  head,  or  heads,  of 
Wady  Menadireh,  and  ran  thence  to  the  west  as  far  as 
Gadara.  This  can  easily  be  traced,  and  the  elevated 
portion,  supported  by  great  arches,  which  conducted  it 
across  Wady  Zeidi  at  Dra'a,  is  stiU  standing. 

As  to  the  ancient  name  of  this  place,  it  was  probably 
Ai'bela.  West  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee  is  a  ruin  called  Irbid, 
which  in  former  times  bore  the  name  of  Ai-bela,  and  this 
Irbid  east  of  the  Jordan  no  doubt  had  a  similar  name. 


Camp  at  El  Hamma,  or  Hot  Springs  of  Gadara, 
Tuesday,  Apiil  25,   18 70. 

On  our  way  hither  we  stayed  two  liom's  at  Beit  er 
Ras, — "house  of  the  head," — and  which,  no  doubt,  cor- 
responds to  Capitolias  of  the  Roman  period.  It  has 
been  a  place  of  importance,  both  in  respect  to  size  and 


THE  DECAFOLIS.  297 

to  the  superior  character  of  the  ruins.  It  must  also  have 
been  a  centre  of  wealth  and  influence.  It  occupies  the 
slopes  and  summits  of  two  or  three  low  hills,  and  extends 
far  to  the  east  on  the  line  of  the  Roman  road,  which  is 
stiU  quite  perfect.  The  public  buildings  were  numerous 
and  imposing,  but  are  now  mere  piles  of  ruins.  Great 
arches  exist  here,  also  columns,  Corinthian  and  Ionic 
capitals,  a  vast  amount  of  carved  ornamental  work,  and 
large,  fine  eagles  still  perfect,  whose  wings  spread  three 
feet.  There  are  also  some  inscriptions  among  the  ruins. 
The  road  leading  east  was  lined  with  columns,  and  the 
building  material  was  chiefly  basalt  rock.  Evidently  a 
great  deal  of  the  old  city  is  underground,  for  twelve  fine 
arches  in  succession  could  be  traced,  which  are  below  the 
surface,  and,  indeed,  people  live  in  these  underground 
apartments.  There  is  underground  an  extensive  ruin, 
which  may  have  been  the  basement  story  of  a  large 
edifice.  AU  the  people  speak  of  an  ancient  road  coming 
from  Um  Keis,  running  past  several  villages,  touching 
Beit  er  Ras,  and  running  thence  to  the  east.  They  speak 
also  of  "written  stones"  in  aU  directions,  but  I  have  seen 
only  three  or  four.  One  is  a  Nabathean  inscription  on  a 
basalt  block  two  feet  long  and  twelve  inches  wide,  the 
inscription  running  lengthwise  on  the  stone.  I  did  not 
copy  this,  because  I  devoted  my  time  to  searching  for 
Greek  inscriptions.  One  of  the  latter  which  I  found  is  on 
k  stone  with  a  singular  face,  from  the  fact  that  a  portion 
of  it  has  been  hewn  oif,  carrying  away  a  part  of  the 
raised  work  upon  it.  It  appeared  to  be  a  lintel,  and  is 
supported  now  at  each  end  by  stones. 

The  inscription  is  as  follows  :    erovi;  Karannatv  rrjg  noXecor 
KB    AnvKiog    OvaXepiog    OvaXrjg    eavro)    e7Tou]aev.       (^'  In     the 
twenty-fifth  year  of  the  founding  of  the  city,  Lucius  Vale- 
rius Vale[n]s  made  [this  monument]  to  himseK.") 
13* 


298  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

This  place  has  a  special  interest,  because  it  was  one 
of  the  cities  which  belonged  to  the  Decapolis. 

Under  this  designation  were  included  Scythopolis,  which 
was  the  only  one  of  the  number  situated  on  the  west  of  the 
Jordan,  and  which  Josephus  says  was  the  largest  city  of 
the  DecapoUs  ("Wars,"  iii.,  9,  7) ;  Hippos,  which  we  regard 
as  identical  with  Fik ;  Gadara,  the  modern  Um  Keis ;  Pella, 
the  same  as  Tubakat  Fah'l ;  Philadelphia,  which  is  identical 
with  Rabbath  Ammon  ;  Grerasa,  the  modern  Gerash ;  Dion ; 
Canatha,  which  we  consider  to.  be  the  same  as  Kunawat ; 
Damascus ;  Raphana.  The  list  varied  slightly  with  differ- 
ent writers.  Thus,  Ptolemy  makes  Capitolias  one  of  the 
number. 

A  little  less  than  one  hour  south  of  Irbid,  in  the  midst 
of  a  fertile  tract,    well  supplied   with   water,   is   a  large 

double  village  with   ruins,    called   Eidun,   /\ftJo\,   by  Eli 

Smith,  and  r\  aj\,  by  Burckhardt.     This,  we  are  confident, 

should  be  regarded  as  the  "  Dion"  or  "Dium"  of  the  Decap- 
olis.    The  name  is  essentially  the  same,  for  the  prefixing 

an  initial  a  ( \ )  sound  is  very  common  among  the  Arabs. 

Raphana  is  mentioned  by  Pliny  (Nat.  Hist.,  v.,  16), 
with  Damascus  and  Philadelphia,  as  "lying  back  towards 
Arabia."  This  ought  to  afford  a  clue  to  its  location, 
although  its  site  is  not  yet  identified. 

Beit  er  Ras  is  one  hour  north  of  Irbid,  and  the  country 
is  generally  level,  broken  somewhat  into  limestone  hiUs 
towards  Um  Keis.  These  hills,  in  some  cases,  are  sharp, 
and  the  sides  bare  rock,  in  which  we  saw  many  ancient 
quarries.  We  were  three  hours  and  thirty-five  minutes  in 
reaching  Um  Keis  from  Beit  er  Ras,  but  our  pace  was 
rapid,  that  is,  we  came  at  a  fast  walk.  One  hour  and 
thirty-five  minutes  east  of  Um  Keis  we  passed  the  ruins 


THE  DECAPOLIS.  299 

of  what  appeared  to  be  a  Roman  tower,  such  as  I  have 
often  seen  in  the  Hanran,  on  the  line  of  Roman  roads. 
To  refer  to  only  a  few  instances,  there  is  one  or  more 
in  the  Zerka  valley  on  the  Roman  road  leading  east  from 
Amman,  and  others  are  on  the  Roman  road  leading  north 
from  Amman,  or  between  that  place  and  Yajuz  or  Gadda. 

We  spent  the  afternoon  among  the  ruins  of  Um  Keis, 
and  came  here  at  night.  The  day  has  been  hot,  the  ther- 
mometer showing  56°  at  7  A.  M.  at  Irbid,  and  96°  at  Um 
Keis  at  5  P.  M.,  and  80°  in  our  camp  at  8  P.  M.  I  could 
not  conveniently  note  it  at  mid-day.  We  have  had  a  de- 
lightful bath  in  the  hot  springs  here,  in  that  one  whose 
temperature  is  103°.  It  is  more  difficult  going  about 
at  El  Hamma  than  when  we  were  here  before,  because 
the  thistles  which  were  then  pliable  are  now  strong  and 
even  ripe,  and  their  thorns  are  cruel.  I  shot  one  beautiful 
Smyrna  kingfisher,  and  my  companions  secured  some  other 
birds. 

Camp  at  Khan  Minieh,  Thursday,  April  27,   1876. 

We  came  here  Wednesday  (yesterday),  being  on  the 
road  six  hours  and  twenty  minutes  from  El  Hamma. 
The  weather  is  very  warm,  and  the  thermometer  showed 
yesterday,  at  El  Hamma,  70°  at  7  A.  M. ;  at  Tiberias, 
93°  at  1  P.  M.;  at  Khan  Minieh,  96°  at  4  P.  M.,  and 
80°  at  7.30  P.  M.  At  4  P.  M.  it  was  130°  in  the  sun, 
and  how  much  hotter  I  do  not  know,  for  that  is  as  high 
as  my  thermometer  is  designed  to  indicate.  We  have  just 
passed  through  a  tr\'ing  su'occo ;  during  such  heated 
terms  I  think  that  the  weather  is  the  most  exhausting  of 
any  that  I  experience  in  the  country.  It  is  then  impos- 
sible for  me  to  sleep,  oi'  to  work  with  any  energy. 

We  crossed  the  Jordan  at  the  point  where  it  issues  from 


300  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

the  lake,  and  had  no  difficulty  in  doing  so.  By  the  opposite 
bank,  a  Catholic  priest  and  four  men  with  him  were  tak- 
ing a  bath  in  the  sacred  river.  The  baths  south  of  Tiberias 
are  now  thronged  with  natives  and  Jews,  and  also  a  num- 
ber of  travellers.  Tents  are  pitched,  simply  the  roof  part 
of  them,  and  people  are  sheltering  themselves  under  these 
from  the  terrible  heat  of  the  sun.  Between  the  baths  and 
the  city  were  six  small  tents,  belonging,  we  learned,  to 
some  Austrian  travellers.  With  travellers,  natives,  tents, 
and  persons  bathing,  the  shore  was  quite  lively  compared 
with  some  other  occasions  when  I  have  been  over  the 
ground  and  not  met  a  person  or  an  animal  and  seen  no 
sign  of  life. 

I  visited  again  'Ain  Mudawareh,  or  the  round  fountain, 
on  the  plain  of  Gennesaret,  and  am  certain  that  only  a 
small  portion  of  the  plain  could  ever  have  been  irrigated 
from  it.  It  lies  too  low  by  fifty  or  sixty  feet,  and 
there  are  no  means  of  raising  the  water  to  such  a  height. 
Also,  the  volume  of  water  is  not  sufficient  for  this  purpose. 
In  the  Rubadiyeh  stream,  however,  there  is  a  copious 
supply  of  water,  and  it  is  at  such  a  height  that  it  could 
easily  be  carried  by  canals  to  all  parts  of  the  plain.  A 
crowd  of  forty  or  fifty  persons,  including  many  women 
and  children,  passed  the  "  round  fountain "  while  I  was 
there.  It  was  a  wedding  procession,  and  they  were  car- 
rying guns,  clubs,  and  flags,  and  playing  on  some  musical 
instruments. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  coming  from  El  Hamma, 
I  stopped  and  examined  the  ruins  of,  Duweir,  which  was 
built  of  basalt  rock,  and  some  of  whose  foundation  stones 
are  large.  On  the  south  side  of  the  mountain  there  has 
been  a  later  village  built  of  the  old  materials,  which  now 
is  also  in  ruins.  As  to  Kerak,  the  ancient  Tarichea,  I 
am  more  and  more  impressed  with  the  natural  strength  of 


THE  DECAPOLIS.  301 

the  place,  i.  e.^  for  a  castle  not  situated  on  some  rocky  peak 
or  bluff.  There  must  have  been  a  natural  mound  here,  or 
else  there  is  a  mass  of  ruins  buried  beneath  the  soil. 

Yesterday,  while  at  work,  I  heard  horses'  feet  in  the 
old  water  trench  around  the  bluff  at  this  place,  which 
now  serves  for  a  road,  and,  on  looking  up,  I  saw  two 
men  approaching,  and  one  of  them  remarked :  "  These 
cannot  be  our  tents,  for  there  is  the  American  flag."  In 
a  moment  or  two  they  had  reached  us,  and  I  was  sur- 
prised to  find  that  one  of  them  was  Rev.  Isaac  Pierson,  of 
the  North  China  Mission  of  the  American  Board.  I  had 
heard  from  friends  in  America  that  he  was  to  leave 
China  and  to  come  home  by  way  of  India  and  Egypt;  he 
intended,  if  possible,  to  stop  in  Palestine,  and  it  was 
hoped  that  I  should  meet  him.  Of  course  there  was  not 
one  chance  in  a  thousand  of  my  doing  so,  even  if  he 
should  visit  the  Holy  Land,  but  here  he  confronted  me 
at  the  very  door  of  my  own  tent,  on  the  plain  of  Gen- 
nesaret.  His  travelling  companion  was  a  Mr.  Robertson, 
from  Glasgow,  Scotland.  They  are  staying  in  Tiberias. 
I  promised  to  take  them  about  this  region  to-day,  and 
accordingly  they  met  me  this  morning,  and  we  have  been 
over  the  plain  and  the  points  of  interest  about  it  pretty 
thoroughly.  I  was  able  also  to  point  out  to  them  the 
ruins  of  Gadara,  Gamala,  Kersa,  Fik,  also  the  important 
wadies,  and  other  facts  connected  with  the  eastern  shore 
of  the  lake.  They  left  me  about  sunset,  and  Mr.  Pierson 
took  letters  and  messages  to  my  friends  in  America. 

At  Khan  Minieh  is  a  swell  in  the  plain,  in  which 
peasants  are  digging,  and,  at  a  depth  of  four  to  six 
feet,  they  struck  a  finely  built  wall,  which  they  followed 
to  a  depth  of  twelve  feet.  I  do  not  know  that  they 
reached  the  bottom.  They  traced  this  wall  until  it 
turned  an  angle,  and  for  some  distance  after  that.    About 


302  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

one  mile  south  of  this  place  is  another  low  mound — a 
mere  sweU  on  the  surface  of  the  plain — over  which  a 
person  might  ride  without  noticing  that  it  was  not  a  part 
of  the  common  field.  Here,  also,  I  found  signs  of  a 
buried  town.  About  this  section  of  the  lake  we  have 
TeU  Hiim,  Kherazeh,  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  shore 
on  a  hill;  'Ain  Tabigha,  Khan  Minieh,  including  the 
place  where  I  have  mentioned  that  workmen  were  dig- 
ging; the  tell  one  mile  south  of  this,  Me j  del,  and  Abu 
Shusheh, — in  all,  seven  places  where  towns  have  existed 
at  some  time.  In  the  New  Testament,  we  have  but  four 
places  mentioned  as  existing  along  this  part  of  the  coast, 
namely,  Bethsaida,  Chorazin,  Capernaum,  and  Magdala. 
If  the  time  and  necessary  means  were  at  my  disposal,  I 
would  like  to  excavate  these  two  low  mounds.  Both  are 
near  the  shore,  and  from  both  I  believe  facts  woiild  be 
developed  throwing  much  light  on  the  topographical  ques- 
tions relating  to  this  vicinity. 

It  has  been  very  hot  to-day,  and  it  will  not  be  healthy 
for  us  to  remain  longer  camped  by  this  marsh  in  the 
midst  of  this  rank  vegetation.  The  thermometer  showed 
75°  at  7.30  A.  M.,  92°  at  1  P.  M.,  and  75°  at  8  P.  M. 


CHAPTER  XXin. 

Return. 

Tell  Hum.  The  Upper  Jordan.  Terrible  road.  Basalt  chasm.  Ford- 
ing the  river.  Getting  wet.  Fine  birds.  Jisr  Benat  Y'akub.  Huleh 
Lake.  Fine  shore  and  plain.  Tells  with  ruins.  'Ain  Mallaha. 
Frightful  thundercloud.  Neby  Husha,  or  Joshua.  Metaweleh  and 
their  customs.  Kedes.  Double  sarcophagi.  View  of  the  Huleh 
basin.  'Ain  S'bur.  Graveyard  and  fountain.  Eichness  of  Upper 
Galilee.  Shukif  castle.  Nabatiyeh.  View  of  the  Mediterranean. 
Telegraph  poles  appear  like  friends.  Approaching  home.  Dogs 
and  horses  excited.  Letters.  Papers  lost.  Report  to  Advisory 
Committee. 

Camp  at  'Ain  Mallaha,  Monday,  May  1,  1876. 

OUR  route  here  from  Khan  Minieh  was  along  the 
shore  of  the  lake  past  TeU  Hum  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Upper  Jordan,  and  then  up  the  west  bank  of  the  river  to 
Jisr  Benat  Y'akub  and  on  the  shore  of  the  Huleh  Lake. 
The  west  bank  of  the  Jordan,  including  all  the  hill-slope  for 
some  miles  north  of  Tell  Hilm  and  the  lake,  is  very  rugged 
and  almost  impassable.  The  basalt  boulders  touch  each 
other,  and  it  was  only  with  great  difficulty  and  danger  that 
we  made  our  way  over  them.  It  was  still  worse  for  our 
loaded  animals,  which  had  a  terrible  time.  This  particular 
region  has  seldom,  if  ever,  been  visited,  and  I  was  desirous 


304  EAST  OF  THE  JOBBAN. 

of  determining  tlie  question  whether  any  ruins  or  remains 
of  a  road  existed  there.  The  Jordan,  from  a  point  a  short 
distance  south  of  Jisr  Benat  Y'akub  to  the  Sea  of  Galilee, 
is  a  wild,  rapid  torrent,  the  water  everywhere  beating 
itself  into  foam  as  it  dashes  over  the  boulders  of  which  the 
bed  of  the  stream  is  composed. 

Beyond  Tell  Hum,  and  not  far  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Jordan,  we  rested  some  time  under  the  shade  of  a  group  of 
large  sidr-trees  which  stood  over  a  tomb.  It  was  too  hot  to 
attempt  to  do  much  work.  We,  however,  forded  the  river 
where  it  enters  the  lake,  and  examined  the  ruins  on  the  east 
side.  "We  camped  about  five  mUes  north  of  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  after  the  worst  of  the  boulder  fields  just  referred 
to  were  passed.  Between  Tell  Hum  and  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  we  found  men  harvesting  wheat,  which  seems  early, 
according  to  our  American  notions  of  the  seasons.  In  spite 
of  the  terrible  heat  we  accomplished  something,  and  were 
also  successful  in  getting  half  a  dozen  valuable  birds  for 
our  collection,  besides  ten  doves  for  our  table. 

In  recrossing  the  river  we  missed  the  best  path,  and  my 
saddle-bags  were  filled  with  water,  and  my  clothing  became 
wet ;  but  under  such  a  sun  as  we  experienced,  a  wetting  was 
not  the  worst  calamity  that  could  have  happened.  For  all 
the  lower  portion  of  the  Upper  Jordan  the  river  has  been 
sunk,  or  it  has  worn  its  way  down  through  a  bed  of  basalt. 

Our  camp  was  two  hours  below  Jisr  Benat  Y'akub.  The 
old  castle  and  khan  at  this  bridge  are  now  in  ruins,  but  the 
place  was  thronged  with  mules,  camels,  merchants,  and 
soldiers,  as  this  is  on  a  great  thoroughfare  to  Damascus.  In 
thirty  minutes  from  the  bridge  we  reached  the  point  where 
the  river  leaves  the  Huleh  Lake.  North,  or  abAve  the 
bridge,  the  ground  is  level  and  free  from  stone,  which  was 
a  relief  to  us  after  our  experience  farther  south.  From  the 
point  of  the  river's  exit,  along  towards  our  present  camp, 


BETURN.  305 

for  a  distance  of  four  or  five  miles,  the  shore  of  the  lake  is 
a  level,  pebbl}-  beach,  on  which  it  is  a  pleasure  to  walk  or 
ride.  Before  leaving  the  Jordan  a  beautiful  egret  or  heron 
(Buphus  riissatusj  ht  in  the  reeds  on  the  opposite  side,  and 
I  fired  a  double-shot  at  it  ^\ithout  expecting  to  get  the  bird, 
as  the  distance  was  great.  To  my  surprise,  the  bird  fell. 
One  of  us  had  to  swim  the  river  for  it,  and  the  lot  fell  on 
Mr.  Van  Dyck,  who  Ijrought  the  bii'd  over  safely  without 
wetting  its  beautiful  plumage.  The  only  shot-mark  that  we 
found  on  it  was  of  one  that  had  passed  through  the  brain. 
We  also  shot  a  string  of  snipe,  besides  some  other  birds. 
The  great  plain  south  of  us,  and  south  of  the  lake,  is 
covered  with  luxuriant  wheat  fields.  Om'  camp  is  by  a 
copious  fountain,  which  forms  a  large  stream  as  soon  as  it 
leaves  the  hills.  A  young  gentleman  from  Auburn,  New 
York,  pitched  his  tent  near  us  to-night.  He  has  been 
studying  medicine  for  two  years  in  Vienna,  and  is  travel- 
ling through  this  country  alone,  with  the  exception  of  his 
dragoman  and  cook.  The  thermometer  showed  62°  at 
7.30  A.  M.,  at  our  camping-place  near  the  Jordan;  at 
our  place  of  lunch,  83°,  and  it  was  72°  at  our  camp  here 
at  7.30  P.  M. 

Saturday  night  we  had  a  fine  shower,  consequently  the 
ground  yesterday  was  very  heav}^,  and  in  the  afternoon  the 
weather  was  remarkably  cool,  considering  what  severe  heat 
we  have  recently  experienced.  Sunday  I  was  thankful  that 
we  had  no  duties,  and  that  we  could  enjoy  a  needed  rest, 
for  this  work  and  exposure  is  beginning  to  tell  on  us  all. 
To-day  the  thermometer  showed  62'^  at  7  A.  M.,  79^  at  1 
P.  M.,  and  66^  at  7  P.  M.  A  terrible  black  thundercloud 
passed  to  the  south  of  us ;  its  aspect  was  frightf id. 
Although  we  did  not  get  its  force,  the  atmosphere  has 
been  cooled  by  it,  and  the  day  in  consequence  has  been 
more  comfortable. 


306  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

We  have  made  pretty  thorough  work  examining  the  tells 
on  this  plain,  and  the  different  points  of  interest  in  this 
immediate  region.  The  tell  below  our  camp,  where  the 
village  of  'Ain  Mallaha  is  situated,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
stream,  is  in  part  artificial.  On  its  south  side  is  a  wall 
composed  of  two  or  three  tiers  of  great  boulders,  similar  to 
those  at  Irbid  and  elsewhere.  The  other  mounds  along  the 
shore  of  the  lake  show  in  like  manner  evidences  of  being 
artificial. 

Near  one  of  these  mounds  a  person  had  just  died,  and 
there  was  a  great  wailing,  especially  by  the  women.  No 
men  appeared  to  be  about,  but  I  suppose  the  funeral 
will  take  place  as  soon  as  they  return  from  their  work. 
That  this  is  an  unhealthy  region  there  can  be  no  doubt, 
although  this  death  could  not  be  referred  to  as  a  proof 
of  the  fact. 


Camp  at  Tell  S'bur,  Tuesday,  May  2,  1876. 

To-day  we  have  been  over  the  Huleh  plain,  visited 
Kedes,  on  the  plateau  above  it  to  the  south-west,  and  are 
camped  among  some  Arabs,  by  a  fountain,  and  near  a 
mound  on  which  are  Roman  ruins  and  a  fine  view  over  the 
plain  and  lake  below.  On  our  way  to  Kedes  we  passed  the 
mizar  (praying-place)  of  Neby  Husha  (Joshua), .  where  a 
ceremony  of  some  kind  was  taking  place.  The  people 
to  whom  I  understood  the  mizar  belonged  are  the  Meta- 
weleh,  who  consider  that  they  are  polluted  by  the  touch  of 
Christians.  Even  a  vessel  from  which  a  Christian  has 
drunk,  and  anything  from  which  he  may  have  eaten,  or  even 
handled  while  eating,  they  never  use  again,  but  destroy  at 
once.  Knowing  these  facts,  we  did  not  even  ask  them  for 
a  drink  of  water,  for  we  did  not  wish  to  occasion  them  any 
loss  of  property  on  our  account.     They  would  have  given 


BETUBN.  307 

us  the  water,  but  would  have  broken  the  bottle  immedi- 
ately afterwards.  As  Moabites  and  explorers,  I  am  aware 
that  we  are  none  too  clean,  but  it  is  not  on  this  ground 
that  these  people  base  then-  scruples.  They  would  sooner 
come  in  contact  with  the  smallpox  or  with  the  dreaded 
cholera  than  with  a  Christian. 

From  the  brow  of  the  mountain,  a  little  beyond  this 
mizar  or  ivehj^  we  could  look  over  the  entire  plain  on 
which  Kedes  stands.  It  is  rich,  highly  cultivated,  and  has 
fine  olive-groves  upon  it.  It  is  about  three  miles  long, 
one  and  one-half  miles  wide,  and  the  ruin  of  the  town  is  on 
the  south  side  of  it.  When  we  were  here  the  last  time  it 
was  in  the  midst  of  a  blinding,  freezing  storm  of  rain  and 
sleet,  from  which  we  did  not  find  shelter  tiU.  midnight.  In 
our  rough  experience  that  was  a  day  long  to  be  remem- 
bered. Among  the  ruins  the  double  sarcophagi  are  notice- 
able, but  the  object  of  theii-  being  constructed  in  this 
manner  I  hardly  know.  The  situation  of  this  town  is 
excellent,  and  the  ruins  attest  its  former  beauty  and 
wealth.  A  small  portion  only  of  the  Huleh  basin  can  be 
seen,  while  the  Sea  of  Galilee  is  entirely  out  of  sight.  "We 
could  not  see  it,  and  upon  inquiry  we  learned  that  it  is 
not  visible  from  these  ruins. 

From  the  brow  of  the  hill  which  overlooks  the  Huleh 
basin  we  counted  as  many  as  a  dozen  villages,  most  of 
them  mere  reed  villages  and  movable.  At  the  extreme 
north  end  some  white  tents  were  visible,  and  when  we 
reached  our  camp  we  learned  that  they  belonged  to 
soldiers  from  Sidon,  who  had  come  here  to  pasture  their 
horses.  This  fact  brings  to  my  mind  an  event  of  thirty- 
two  centuries  ago,  when  the  Sidonians  came  here  to  settle, 
as  it  appears,  and  whose  city  was  subsequently  captured  by 
the  Danites  (Josh,  xix.,  17;  Judges  xviii.,  28,  29),  While 
looking  over  the  plain  I  counted  nearly  forty  single  teams 


308  EAST  OF  THE  JOIWAX. 

ploughing.  These,  with  the  soldiers  and  theii'  tents, 
and  the  reed  villages,  give  the  plain  an  animated  ap- 
pearance. 

Here,  among  those  Ai^abs,  I  feel  that  we  are  with  onr 
friends  again.  They  call  to  see  us,  and  talk  about  our 
journey  in  the  Belka,  and,  of  course,  examine  everj'thing 
about  our  tent,  whether  we  allow  them  or  not. 

At  the  fountain  near  ns,  or  'Ain  S'l)ur,  is  a  large  willow- 
tree,  eighteen  inches  in  diameter.  Above  the  fountain,  and 
not  twenty  feet  from  it,  is  a  graveyard.  Of  course  the 
fountain,  from  which  we  obtained  our  drinking-water, 
affords  to  this  graveyard  excellent  drainage. 

This  tell  has  a  good  many  ruins  upon  it,  columns, 
squared  stones,  some  limestone,  but  chiefly  basalt,  a  few 
old  presses  and  a  good  many  fine  foundations.  The  out- 
look over  the  plain  is  good,  Banias,  Tell  el  Kadi,  and  other 
points  being  in  plain  sight,  while  to  the  west  and  north  the 
hills  are  not  so  near  as  to  obstruct  the  view.  I  do  not 
know  to  what  ancient  name  S'bur  corresponds,  if  to  any. 
I  think  that  some  editions  of  the  Jerusalem  Talmud  men- 
tion a  Sobar  in  Shibiith,  vi.,  2,  Gemara. 

Beirut,  Saturday,  May  G,  1876. 

We  arrived  here  yesterday  after  an  absence  of  eighty- 
one  days,  during  which  time  we  have  worked  faithfulh', 
and  some  of  the  time  overworked,  becoming,  in  conse- 
quence, pretty  well  exhausted.  We  left  S'bur  on  Wednes- 
day and  camped  that  night  in  Nabatiyeh.  The  heat  was 
much  more  oppressive  than  would  seem  to  be  indicated 
by  the  thermometer,  which  showed  62°  at  7  A.  M.  and 
70°  at  Nabatiyeh  at  7  P.  M.  We  passed,  soon  after  start- 
ing, a  fountain  and  rtfln  called  respectively  'Ain  and 
Khurbet  el  Euwaihineh.     The  fountain  is  a  copious  one. 


BETUBN.  309 

and  makes  the  valley  below  it  gTeen,  along  which  poplar- 
trees  are  growing  in  abnndance.  Soon  after  that,  we 
passed  Abil,  on  oiu*  right.  The  monnd,  which  looks  arti- 
ficial, wonld  always  be  a  desh*able  site  for  a  town,  and 
there  is  no  doubt  it  has  been  occupied  from  the  earliest 
history  of  the  country.  It  would  be  in  the  track  of  an 
army  coming  from  Damascus,  past  Banias,  on  its  way  to 
Sidon  and  the  sea-coast.  We  enjoyed  our  ride  over  the 
beautiful  Merj  'Ayun,  which  has  rich  fields  and  pictu- 
resque villages.  On  our  right,  and  above  us,  was  the 
white  head  of  Mount  Hermon,  while  far  to  the  north  were 
the  summits  of  the  Lebanon  Mountains,  also  covered 
vnih.  show.  The  castle  of  Shukif,  when  looked  at  from 
the  east  or  south,  is  a  most  imposing  object,  the  wall 
of  mountain  above  which  it  is  perched  being  on  that  side 
one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  in  almost  perpendicular 
height.  This  region  was  the  northern  portion  of  Upper 
Galilee.  It  would  fully  sustain  the  reputation  of  that 
province  for  fertility,  and  could,  in  Solomon's  time,  havo 
yielded  rich  harvests  of  wheat  for  the  merchants  and 
shippers  of  Tyre  and  Sidon.  We  devoted  considerabl  - 
time  to  the  examination  of  Shid^if  castle,  and  then  went 
on,  over  a  good  road,  to  Nabatiyeh.  This  is  a  Metaweleh 
village,  and  the  children  that  came  around  our  tent  in 
large  groups  were  bright  and  good-looking.  At  this 
place  we  secured  some  orioles,  which  are  very  rare  birds, 
and  several  other  new  and  valuable  ones,  for  our  coUec- 
tion.     Among  them  are  two  land-rails. 

We  reached  Sidon  in  five  hours  and  ten  minutes  from 
Nabatiyeh.  Our  camp  was  near  the  old  tombs  before 
mentioned  as  being  fifteen  or  more  feet  undergi'ound, 
and  which  we  went  down  into  to  examine.  When 
opened,  some  of  them  are  found  to  contain  valuable 
relics,  while  others  contain  nothing. 


310  EAST  OF   THE  JORDAN. 

As  we  reached  tlie  brow  of  the  hill,  coming  from  Naba- 
tiyeh,  from  wbicli  the  Mediterranean  could  be  seen,  it 
was  inspiring  to  look  out  again  over  its  broad  expanse, 
lying,  as  it  did  that  day,  in  unspeakable  cabnness  and 
beauty.  The  light  breeze  from  the  sea  was  invigorating, 
and  I  felt  that  I  was  meeting  an  old  friend.  As  we 
descended  the  hills  to  the  plain,  we  passed  the  tele- 
graph line  along  the  coast,  and  I  stopped  and  put  my 
hand  on  one  of  the  poles,  to  assure  myself  that  I  was 
again  in  contact  with  civilization. 

We  were  six  hours  and  forty-five  minutes  in  reaching 
Beirut  from  Sidon.  For  the  last  two  or  three  hours  of 
our  journey  our  horses  and  dogs  got  the  hint  in  some 
way  that  they  were  neariug  home,  and  then*  manifesta- 
tions of  joy  were  very  marked.  It  was,  in  fact,  difficult 
to  restrain  our  animals  from  overdoing,  in  their  excite- 
ment at  arriving  again  at  places  and  scenes  with  which 
they  were  familiar. 

On  reaching  Beirut  I  found  a  quantity  of  letters  from 
friends,  but  my  three  months'  accumulation  of  papers 
had  gone  the  way  of  aU.  the  earth.  This  I  regretted,  as 
some  of  them  belonged  to  files  and  to  me  were  valuable. 
My  friend,  in  whose  charge  they  were,  being  a  little  deaf, 
understood  me  to  say :  "  You  need  not  save  my  papers," 
when  I  really  said :  "  You  need  not  send  my  papers," 
meaning  to  Jerusalem,  with  any  letters  which  he  might 
forward,  and  hence  the  mistake  arose. 

The  contrast  between  life  in  Beirut  and  what  I  see 
about  me,  and  Bedawin  life,  with  its  camels,  sheep,  goats, 
horses,  and  black  tents,  is  so  great  that  I  feel  as  though 
I  were  in  a  new  world.  I  have  received  many  calls 
from  friends,  besides  others  from  gentlemen  belonging 
to  different  parties  of  travellers,  and  among  these,  General 
S.  W.  Crawford,  of  the  United  States  Army,  has  taken  a 


BETUBN.  311 

deep  interest  in  my  work,  and  I  have  called  with  him  to 
see  the  Rev.  Dr.  Thomson.  I  have  prepared  a  prelimi- 
nary report  to  the  Advisory  Committee  of  the  Palestine 
Exploration  Society,  of  which  Dr.  Thomson  is  chau'man, 
and  handed  it  to  him,  while  my  companion  has  settled 
with  oui'  muleteers  and  servants,  and  the  camp-life  part 
of  this  expedition  is  ended. 


COPT  OP  THE  PRELIMINARY  REPORT  JUST  REFERRED  TO. 

Beirut,  May  6,  1876. 
To  Eev.  William  M.  Thomson,  D.  D., 

Chairman  of  the  Advisory  Committee  of  the 

Palestine  Exploration  Society. 

Dear  Sir :  I  am  happy  to  inform  you  that  the  expedition  which  you 
sent  out  under  my  care  on  the  fifteenth  of  February  last,  to  the  East 
Jordan  valley,  the  Gilead  region,  the  Dead  Sea,  and  Moab,  returned  to 
this  city  yesterday  afternoon.  May  fifth.  We  have  sometimes  been 
exposed  to  storms,  and  often  to  terrible  heat,  especially  in  the  Huleh 
marshes  and  in  the  Lower  Jordan  valley,  but  neither  ourselves  nor  our 
men  have  lost  a  day  by  sickness.  During  the  eighty-one  days  of  our  ab- 
sence we  have  been  almost  constantly  associated  with  Arabs  belonging 
to  the  various  Bedawin  tribes  east  of  the  Jordan,  and  they  have  uniformly 
and  without  exception  treated  us  in  the  kindest  manner.  We  have 
paid  special  attention  to  the  archaeology,  botany,  geology,  and  natural 
history  of  the  region  visited,  and  angles  have  been  taken  from  all  the 
important  points :  the  ruins  of  Kersa  or  Gersa,  the  ancient  Gergesa 
(Matt,  viii.,  28),  on  the  shore  of  the  lake  at  the  mouth  of  Wady  Semakh, 
nearly  opposite  the  city  of  Tiberias,  and  near  which  is  undoubtedly  the 
scene  of  the  demoniac  and  the  herd  of  swine,  have  been  thoroughly 
examined,  together  with  the  entire  shore  and  hills  east  of  the  Sea  of 
Galilee.  Careful  search  has  also  been  made  for  the  sites  of  Jabesh 
Gilead  and  Mahanaim,  and  it  is  believed  that  data  have  been  found 
which,  when  v>rorked  out,  vnll  throw  important  light  on  the  route  pur- 
sued by  Jacob  in  his  journey  from  the  country  of  Laban  to  the  land  of 
Canaan.  Among  many  other  ruins,  those  of  Gadara  the  city  of  tombs, 
and  of  Bella,  whither  the  Christians  fled  at  the  time  of  the  destruction 
of  Jerusalem,  have  been  specially  examined.  A  good  deal  of  time  has 
been  devoted  to  the  plain  of  Shittim,  or  the  region  at  the  north-east 
corner  of  the  Dead  Sea,  and  we  hope  that  the  results  of  om*  researches 
there  will  clear  up  many  points  iu  connection  with  the  geography  of 


312  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

some  portions  of  the  thirteenth  chapter  of  Joshua  and  the  thirty-second 
chapter  of  Numbers.  Every  fountain,  stream,  and  ruin,  and  almost 
every  wady,  in  the  valley  and  hills  immediately  east  of  the  Jordan, 
from  the  north  end  of  the  Sea  of  Galileo  to  the  Dead  Sea,  has  been  \-is- 
ited,  and  a  large  amoimt  of  material  collected,  which  may  be  of  service 
in  many  ways,  besides  being  of  special  importance  to  Biblical  science. 
As  we  cannot  here  enter  into  details,  it  may  be  said,  in  a  word,  that  it 
is  impossible  to  exaggerate  the  importance  of  the  work  imdertaken  by 
the  Society  in  this  section  of  Palestine,  which  is  so  rich  in  ruins,  as 
well  as  in  many  other  particulars  that  are  of  great  interest  to  Biblical 
scholars.  I  hope  the  inembers  of  the  Committee  will  find  time  as  soon 
as  possible  to  call  at  our  rooms,  and  examine  our  collection  of  birds.  I 
also  take  pleasure  in  saying  that  the  relations  between  myself  and  my 
companion  and  assistant,  Mr.  Henry  L.  Van  Dyck,  have  been  exceed- 
ingly amicable.  His  tact  in  getting  along  with  the  Arabs  is  quite 
remarkable,  and  our  fine  collection  of  birds  is  due  in  a  great  measm^e 
to  his  care  and  skill. 

Very  respectfiiUy, 

Selah  Merrill, 
Archaeologist  of  the  American  Palestine  Exploration  Society. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Ox  THE  March. 

Companions.  Merchant  caravans.  Feasible  route  for  a  raih'oad. 
Arab  dog.  Abil.  Park-like  scenery.  Ploughmen.  Cyclopean  blocks. 
'Aiu  Balata.  Successful  hunt.  Great  plain.  Defeat  of  Jabin. 
Botany.  Water-fowl.  Khan  Jubb  Yusef.  Poor  water.  Wild  flowers. 
Gennesaret.  The  beautiful  lake.  Hermon's  dome.  Sending  letters. 
Our  old  horsemen.  Jews  at  Tiberias.  Old  city,  wall,  and  citadel 
I'evisited.  Great  heat.  Goats  on  the  rocks  and  cliffs.  Haj  'Ali  and 
story-telling. 

In  Camp  at  Tiberias,  March  11,  1877. 

WE  reached  onr  old  camping-ground  south  of  the  city 
at  5.40  P.  M.,  yesterday,  ha\T.ug  left  Beiinit  on 
Wednesday^  March  7,  and  coming  by  way  of  Sidon,  Shukif, 
Merj  'Ayun,  'Ain  Mallaha,  Jisr  Benat  Y'akub,  and  Khan 
Minieh.  My  assistant  and  companion  is  Mr.  Henry  Van 
Dyck.  We  have  with  us  two  young  English  gentlemen, 
Messrs.  Ashworth  and  Cliristian,  both  residents  of  Beirut, 
who  have  had  a  great  desire  to  see  something  of  the 
country  east  of  the  Jordan,  and  to  get  some  ghmpses  of 
Arab  life  in  the  desert. 

The  Phoenician  coast,  along  which  wc  passed,  is  narrow 
and   rough,   with   fertile    fields  covered   now  with   Q-rai:i, 
14 


314  EAST  OF  THE  JOBBAN. 

having  low,  picturesque  mountains  in  the  background, 
beyond  which  snow-capped  summits  rise  in  grandeur. 

We  called,  in  Sidon,  on  the  Rev.  Dr.  Eddy  and  family. 
He  says  there  are  no  Frank  families  or  people  in  Sidon, 
and  no  one  with  whom  he  can  communicate  in  English. 
He,  assisted  by  his  wife  and  daughter,  is  very  busy  in  his 
noble  work. 

Between  Sidon  and  Shukif  we  passed  several  trains  of 
merchants.  They  evidently  prefer  to  travel  in  companies 
and  small  caravans,  and  all  go  armed.  This  may  be 
necessary  at  all  times,  but  it  is  particularly  so  now,  in  the 
unsettled  state  of  the  country. 

Nabatiyeh,  five  hours  and  ten  minutes  from  Sidon,  is  a 
large,  flourishing  village,  and  fairs  are  held  there  every 
week,  when  people  from  the  neighboring  towns,  merchants 
from  the  remote  cities,  and  Arabs  from  the  desert,  meet 
together  to  trade. 

At  Shukif  there  are  very  large  stones  with  the  bevel  and 
full  rough  surface  like  the  large  stones  in  the  Banias  castle 
and  the  castle  at  Bozrah,  and  like  what  in  Jerusalem  is 
called  Herodian  work.  In  the  upper  portions  of  the  walls 
the  Moslem  work  is  evident  by  its  poor  quality  and  the 
small  size  of  the  stones — unmistakable  signs  of  the  period 
to  which  it  belongs. 

Shukif  we  make  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above 
the  sea  level,  and  our  camp  at  Jisr  el  Khardeli,  on  the 
Litany,  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  it. 

The  rise  from  Sidon  to  the  plateau  which  stretches 
between  the  coast  and  the  Litany  could  easily  be  overcome 
by  a  railroad,  and  the  plateau  itself  would  offer  no  very 
great  obstacle  to  such  a  work.  The  most  difficult  part 
would  be  the  crossing  of  the  Litany.  If  a  considerable 
detour  were  made  to  the  north,  the  stream  and  valley  could 
easily  be  crossed,  and  the  road  would  wind  back  southward 


ON  THE  MARCH.  315 

towards  Merj  'Ayun,  and  thence  to  Damascus  the  ground 
would  be  comparatively  easy.  This  has  always  been  the 
most  feasible  route  from  Sidon  and  that  vicinity  to 
Damascus,  because  the  hills  are  less  difficult  than  by 
any  northern  route,  and  besides,  it  is  fi-ee  from  snow 
in  winter.  These  lines  of  old  castles,  namely,  Banias 
and  ShuMf  to  Sidon,  and  Banias,  Hunin,  and  Tibniu  to 
Tjrre,  indicate  the  existence  of  a  thoroughfare  here  in  the 
earhest  times. 

An  Arab  dog  joined  us  at  Sidon,  a  large,  strong,  dignified 
animal,  with  a  pleasant  face.  He  does  not  understand 
English.  We  have  to  address  him  in  Arabic.  The  name 
we  have  chosen  for  him  is  "  Fox,"  from  his  resemblance  to 
that  animal  in  every  respect  except  size. 

The  great  mound  at  Abil  is  of  singular  appearance,  has 
an  artificial  look,  and  ought  to  be  excavated. 

The  broad,  open  fields  of  Merj  'Ayun,  carpeted  with 
green  and  dotted  with  old  trees,  attracted  the  attention  of 
our  friends,  who  thought  this  region  would  make  a  fine 
English  park.  After  passing  'Ain  S'bur,  our  camping-place 
last  year,  we  were  obliged  to  keep  close  to  the  hills  to  avoid 
being  mired  in  the  soft  plain. 

The  great  Huleh  basin  is  always  beautiful,  from  whatever 
point  it  is  seen.  The  gently  sloping  plain,  the  vast  marsh, 
the  acres  of  reeds  and  papyrus,  the  openings  where  the 
water  appears  like  sheets  of  silver,  and  the  lake  itself,  make 
a  combination  of  beauty  rarely  found.  Here  are  many 
square  miles  perfectly  free  from  stone,  and  inviting  to  the 
husbandman.  Here  a  dexterous  ploughman  could  turn  a 
premium  furrow,  and  the  owner  of  the  soil  can,  at  every 
so  wing- time,  look  forward  to  bountiful  crops.  Many  cattle 
were  feeding  on  the  plain,  and  in  one  section  I  counted 
twenty,  and  in  another  thirty,  single  teams  ploughing. 
There  were  one  pah*  of  cattle  and  one  man  to  a  plough. 


316  EAST  OF  THE  JOED  AN. 

Tlie  cattle  were  small  and  tlie  implements  poor.  The  men 
were  ragged,  and  their  feet  and  legs  were  bare. 

'Aih  Balata,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Huleh  marsh,  has 
been  an  important  point  from  remote  antiquity,  if  any 
proof  can  be  deduced  from  the  stonework  alsout  it,  which 
consists  of  great  cyclopean  blocks,  such  as  are  found  only 
in  a  very  few  places  in  the  country. 

There  are  many  villages  on  the  plain  about  the  Huleh 
lake  and  marsh,  made  mostly  of  reeds,  with  which  fire 
would  make  speedy  havoc  if .  once  it  should  break  out 
among  them-  These  houses  are  temporary  affairs,  and 
take  the  place  of  a  cloth  tent.  They  cost  little,  and  new 
ones  can  readily  be  built  when  a  change  of  location  is 
desired. 

I  always  found  at  Mallaha  a  fine  camping-ground, 
although  by  some  it  is  regarded  as  unhealthy.  This  1 
do  not  pretend  to  dispute.  The  abundance  of  fresh  water 
in  the  great  fountain,  and  the  broad,  deep  stream  which 
flows  thence  to  the  lake,  are  attractions  of  which  but  few 
places  can  boast. 

We  divided  ourselves  into  two  parties,  one  going  down 
one  side  of  the  stream  and  the  other  party  on  the  opposite 
side,  and  in  that  way  secured  a  bag  of  quails,  snipe, 
ducks,  plover,  also  one  jackdaw,  one  starhng,  one  shrike, 
and  one  kingfisher. 

On  our  way  from  'Ain  Mallaha  to  Jisr  Benat  Y'akiib,  we 
reexamined  the  mounds  on  the  southern  shore  of  the  lake, 
on  some  of  which  are  ruins  showing  that  they  have  been 
occupied  l)y  towns.  In  one,  near  the  point  where  the 
stream  from  'Ain  Mallaha  enters  the  lake,  are  some  cyclo- 
pean stones  similar  to  those  seen  at  'Ain  Balata.  Between 
the  lake  and  tlie  bridge,  Benat  Y'akub,  there  is  a  large 
mound  which  has  more  ruins  upon  it  than  any  of  the  otheiv. 
This  valley  was  inhabited  in  Joshua's  time,  and  somewhere 


ON  THE  MABCH.  317 

in  this  vicinity-;  perhaps  on  this  very  plain,  was  the  scene 
of  a  great  battle,  in  which  Jabin,  king  of  Hazor,  and  the 
allied  armies  were  defeated  (Josh.  xi.).  In  the  case  of  a 
plain  like  this,  one  may  be  certain  that  the  mounds  have 
been  the  sites  of  cities  from  the  remotest  times.  If  treas- 
nres  and  rehcs  of  antiquity  are  beneath  the  soil  at  any 
points,  they  are  in  these  mounds. 

The  marshes  of  Lake  Huleh  contain  not  only  water-fowl 
in  vast  multitudes,  but  also  flowers,  among  vv^hich  a  botanist 
could  spend  weeks  in  reaping  a  rich  harvest.  Whole  sec- 
tions of  the  lake  itself  would  often  be  beaten  into  foam  by 
the  rushing  and  splashing  of  the  water-fowl  in  it  strug- 
gling to  gain  their  mugs  whenever  we  happened  to  come 
upon  them  suddenly. 

Between  the  bridge  and  Khan  Minieh,  much  of  the 
ground  for  the  last  part  of  the  way  is  rocky,  and  from  one 
ridge  we  could  see  Huleh  to  the  north  and  the  Sea  of 
Galilee  in  the  south.  The  water  at  Khan  Jubb  Yusef  is 
poor,  and  the  less  of  it  one  drinks  the  better,  unless  it  is 
first  boiled  and  afterwards  allowed  to  cool. 

The  Gennesaret  plain  is  charming  at  the  present  time. 
The  wild  mustard  is,  in  some  places,  as  high  as  my  horse's 
back,  and  elsewhere,  especially  on  the  slopes  about  the 
plain,  are  fields  of  red  and  white  anemones  and  many 
other  flowers.  Some  of  these  white  anemones  are  as  large 
a^  a  saucer.  Up  to  this  point  there  are  as  yet  no  leaves  on 
the  trees,  but  the  buds  were  large  on  the  butm-trees  near 
Lake  Huleh. 

One  who  has  always  lived  in  the  Lebanon  Mountains,  in 
the  coast  towns,  or  in  the  great  cities  such  as  Damascus 
and  Jerusalem,  cannot  realize  the  wealth  of  natural  beauty 
of  which  Palestine  is  possessed.  Even  this  oppressed  and 
poverty-stricken  country  has  fertile  fields  and  broad 
plains,   rich  soil  free  from  stones,  beautiful  groves,  and 


318  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

far-reacliing  landscapes,  such  as  would  be  praised  if  found 
even  in  the  fairest  lands  of  the  globe.  This  Sea  of  GalUee 
is  more  like  a  work  of  art  than  like  a  natiu'al  formation. 
Its  beauty  is  developed  by  study,  like  that  of  Niagara,  or 
like  that  of  the  lakes  of  Switzerland  or  Scotland.  The 
silent  hills  about  it  clad  now  with  verdure,  the  shadows 
moving  over  its  surface,  the  numerous  flocks  on  plain  and 
mountain-side,  the  water-fowl  sporting  in  bay  and  inlet, 
men  and  animals  loitering  on  the  shore,  here  and  there  in 
the  fields  a  ploughman  or  a  shepherd,  and,  most  inspiring 
of  aU,  Hermon's  dome  in  the  north,  overlooking  the  whole, 
form  elements  sufficient  to  enrich  any  landscape ;  but  in 
this  case  we  have  sacred  associations  which  thi'ow  a  special 
charm  over  the  whole. 

Last  night  we  had  an  opportunity  to  send  letters  to 
Nazareth,  of  which  we  eagerly  availed  ourselves.  They 
will  go  thence  to  the  Consul  at  Haifa,  and  after  a  while 
reach  civilization. 

Our  old  horsemen,  Mohammed  and  Bachire,  called  to- 
day, as  did  Haj  'Ali,  one  of  our  hunters  of  last  year. 

While  at  the  hot  baths  I  met  a  Jew  from  Moldavia,  who 
was  very  intelligent.  We  tried  three  or  foui*  languages 
before  we  struck  one  in  which  we  could  communicate. 
Later  in  the  day  he  came  to  my  tent  and  staid  a  long  time. 
He  had  some  Hebrew  books,  and  these  we  read  together. 
He  thought  there  were  from  six  hundred  to  one  thousand 
Jews  in  Tiberias.  Many  were  poor  and  feeble  ;  but  in  the 
country  where  they  lived  they  had  heard  of  the  famous 
baths  of  Tiberias,  and  some  had  made  a  great  effort  to 
come  to  this  place,  hoping  to  be  benefited  by  them. 
Many,  he  said,  received  great  benefit  from  the  water  and 
the  hot  chmate.  He  gave  me  a  long  account  of  the 
famous  Jewish  rabbis  who  had  been  buried  near  this  city. 

To-morrow  I  expect  a  very  busy  day,  in  making  prepara- 


ON  THE  MARCH.  319 

tions  for  our  journey  and  work  east  of  the  Jordan.  I 
hope,  among  other  places,  to  visit  Nawa.  The  country 
is  disturbed.  People  everywhere  hate  the  government. 
Government  agents,  if  they  go  alone,  go  at  the  risk  of 
their  lives,  and  the  inhabitants  of  Nawa  itself  are  said  to 
be  peculiarly  unfi-iendly  at  the  present  time. 

After  our  preparations  were  complete  at  Tiberias  I  went 
over  the  ruins  of  the  old  city  again,  and  also  followed  up 
the  zigzag  wall  on  the  south  side,  where  it  leads  to  the  old 
castle  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  From  this  ancient  citadel 
there  is  a  fine  view  of  Safed,  GJ-amala,  Gadara,  all  the  lake, 
and  modern  Tiberias  itself,  one  thousand  feet  below.  The 
day  was  very  hot,  and  I  was  more  affected  by  the  heat  than 
I  remember  to  have  been  on  any  former  occasion  since  I 
came  to  Syria.  I  tried  the  kefiyeh,  which  the  natives  con- 
sider a  certain  preventive  of  sunstroke,  and  it  came  near 
killing  me.  When  I  reached  camp  I  was  completely  pros- 
trated. At  sunset,  however,  the  air  was  cool,  and  I  was 
chilly,  even  with  an  overcoat  on. 

A  flock  of  about  one  thousand  goats  have  passed  our 
tent  every  night  and  morning,  while  we  have  been  at 
Tiberias,  and  among  them  were  a  large  number  of  lame 
goats.  I  have  never  before  noticed  so  many  lame  ones. 
These  animals  love  to  climb  the  rocks,  apparently  from 
mere  curiosity  or  adventure,  and  sometimes  get  a  faU.  I 
wonder  that  many  are  not  killed,  because  they  seem  to  go 
about  the  cliffs  in  such  a  reckless  manner. 

Haj  Ali  called  again,  and  fell  into  his  old  habit  of  story- 
telling. This  time  the  subject  was  his  pilgrimage  to  Mecca, 
which  he  had  made  some  years  ago,  and  I  learned  from 
him  many  facts  that  were  both  interesting  and  valuable. 


CHAPTER    XXY. 

GOLAJSf    AND    ASHTEROTH    KaRNAIM, 

The  Jordan  high.  DiiSculty  in  crossing.  Poor  Jew.  Moslem 
em"ses.  Desperate  measui'es  of  the  government.  Arab  dog 
escapes  the  "tax."  Tulul  eth  Th'aalib.  Khan  el  'Atabah.  Wady 
Fik.  Olive-groves.  Fertile  plains.  An  oppressive  government 
ruining  the  country.  Wady  'Allan.  Ancient  bridges.  Fine  dol- 
mens. Palace  of  Tamerlane.  Unfriendly  reception.  Suspicions 
of  the  fez.  Itineraries.  Tell  'Ashtara.  Site  of  Golan.  Site  of 
Ashteroth  Kamaim.  Interesting  mound.  Abundance  of  water. 
Cyclopean  walls. 

Camp  at  Nawa,  Thursday,  March  15,  1877. 

THE  Jordan  is  liigli  at  this  season,  and  we  crossed 
at  the  exit  of  the  river  from  the  lake  by  means  of 
a  temporary  raft.  The  stream  could  not  now  be  forded 
either  at  this  point  or  below,  where  formerly  we  had 
crossed  with  ease.  This  raft  is  owned  by  some  parties 
in  Tiberias;  and,  as  a  few  piastres  are  at  stake,  the 
government  has  placed  here  an  officer  to  watch  the  move- 
ments of  the  ferry-boat,  and  keep  an  exact  account  of  the 
number  of  men  and  loaded  animals  that  are  taken  across. 
This  man  happened  to  be  a  Jew  from  Tiberias,  and  the 
Moslems  did  not  cease  to  curse  the  poor  fellow  to  his  face 
as  freely  as  behind  his  back.      It  seemed  to  me  that,  if 


GOLAN  AND  ASHTEROTH  KARNAIM.  321 

they  meant  half  they  said,  he  must  be  in  danger  of  his 
life ;  but  I  presume  he  had  heard  such  talk  before,  it 
would  be  impossible  to  accomplish  a  crossing  at  such  a 
place  without  the  owners  of  the  boat  wrangling  about 
the  price.  The  usual  scene  was  gone  through  with  on 
this  occasion.  We  had  learned  the  regular  price  before 
leaving  Tiberias,  and  this  was  offered,  with  a  consider- 
able advance  in  the  way  of  presents.  Our  money  was 
refused,  of  course,  to  be  accepted  after  a  great  deal  of 
ralk,  when  they  found  that  we  would  pay  no  more.  Dur- 
ing the  conversation,  the  innocent  Jew  dropped  a  remark 
about  the  regular  tariff  being  so  much,  and,  as  this 
appeared  to  the  boatmen  to  be  taking  our  part,  they 
turned  upon  him  like  maddened  wild  beasts  upon  their 
prey.  The  only  thing  that  surprised  me  was  the  com- 
posure of  this  man.  He  did  not  appear  to  be  alarmed, 
and  it  is  probable  that  those  who  were  cursing  him  would 
not  dare  to  molest  him.  The  fact  that  the  government 
must  tax  such  an  insignificant  industry  as  the  ferry  busi- 
ness of  these  poor  men,  is  significant  of  the  desperate 
measures  to  which  it  is  forced  to  resort  in  order  to  raise 
a  little  money. 

Our  Arab  dog  "  Fox "  swam  the  river,  and  so  avoided 
the  government  tax.  The  rest  of  the  expedition  had  to 
pay.  We  considered  it  safest  to  unload  our  animals, 
which  was  accordingly  done,  and  our  baggage  taken 
across  in  four  loads,  the  animals  swimming  beside  the 
raft,  to  be  reloaded  on  the  opposite  bank.  The  current 
was  strong  and  rapid,  and  some  of  the  animals  broke 
loose,  and,  amid  the  splashing  of  the  horses  and  the 
shouting  of  the  boatmen  and  muleteers,  the  scene  was 
quite  exciting.  My  own  horse  broke  loose  repeatedly. 
He  was  determined  that  he  would  not  cross  the  stream 
either  by  boat  or  by  swimming.  He  was  perfectly  con- 
14* 


322  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

tented  where  he  was.  Altogether,  notwithstanding  the 
hard  words  of  the  boatmen  and  mnleteers,  and  the  curses 
heaped  upon  the  poor  Jew,  we  had  also,  that  morning, 
considerable  fun.  In  two  hours  all  were  across;  we  had 
reloaded,  and  were  on  our  way. 

In  fifty  minutes  we  had  crossed  the  plain,  leaving  Ed 
Duweir  and  the  road  to  El  Hamma  on  our  right,  Tulul 
eth  Th'aalib  (''liills  of  the  foxes")  a  little  to  our  left,  and 
in  one  hour  and  fifteen  minutes  from  the  crossing,  we 
were  at  Khan  el  'Akabah,  which,  in  the  twelfth  century, 
appears  to  have  been  mentioned  by  Edrisi  (p.  8).  We 
followed  up  the  line  of  the  ancient  road  leading  from 
Bethshean  to  Damascus.  Traces  of  the  pavement  of 
this  road  appear  here  and  there,  and  the  route  is  a 
very  feasible  one  for  a  public  thoroughfare  from  the 
eastern  plateau  to  the  Jordan  vaUey.  The  khan  just 
refeiTcd  to  was  formerly  a  good  one,  well  built,  and 
commodious.  Our  English  friends  desired  to  visit  El 
Hamma,  and  went  that  way  with  one  of  our  horsemen. 
In  the  Jordan  valley  the  atmosphere  was  hot,  but  was 
cooler  as  we  ascended  the  mountain.  On  the  top,  or 
brow,  of  the  hill  at  Khan  'Akabah  the  basalt  rock  appears, 
and  the  great  plain  —  broad,  level,  rich,  and  beautiful  — 
which  stretches  away  to  Fik  and  beyond,  is  composed  of 
dark  red  earth,  the  decomposition  of  lava  rock  and  ashes. 

From  Fik  one  can  look  down  upon  the  Lake  of  Tiberias 
and  see  a  large  portion  of  the  western  shore.  Beyond 
the  lake.  Tabor,  Hattin,  Safed,  and  many  of  the  other 
hills  in  that  part  of  Western  Palestine,  are  in  full  view. 
Along  Wady  Fik,  west  of  the  city,  are  some  fine  olive- 
groves.  The  wady  pushes  up  into  the  city  itself,  and  ends 
abruptly  in  a  perpendicular  wall.  Its  sides  along  that 
portion  which  is  within  the  city  are  also  vertical,  and 
the  chasm  is  several  hundi'ed  feet  across.     In  the  bottom 


GOLAN  AND  ABHTEBOTH  KARNAIM.  323 

of  the  wady,  and  at  the  extreme  upper  end,  there  is  a  fine 
fountain.  The  city  was  built  around  the  head  of  this 
wady  and  on  both  sides  of  it,  and  in  former  times  must- 
have  been  a  place  of  great  extent.  About  it  were  wide 
and  fertile  plains,  while  in  the  north  the  people  looked 
up  to  Hermon,  and  in  the  west  and  south  the  prospect 
was  extensive  and  varied.  The  houses  were  built  entirely 
of  black  basalt.  There  are  the  remains  of  some  Roman 
buildings,  such  as  are  seen  in  other  pai'ts  of  the  East 
Jordan  country.  I  noticed  particularly  the  height  and 
size  of  some  of  the  doors  of  the  common  houses,  and 
they  seemed  to  indicate  wealth  and  luxury  rather  than 
poverty  and  wretchedness.  I  found  here  only  one  Greek 
inscription,  but  I  suspect  there  are  many  more.  I  found 
also  a  few  Arabic  inscriptions,  and  more  Cuflc  ones  than 
I  have  seen  in  any  other  single  town  east  of  the  Jordan. 
I  do  not  know  the  number  of  houses  that  still  exist  in 
tolerable  condition,  but  there  are  at  least  several  hundred, 
while  a  multitude  are  in  hopeless  ruin.  Fik  had  formerly 
a  large  population,  but  during  recent  years  the  number 
has  been  greatly  reduced,  and  the  resources  of  those  that 
remain  are  now  very  limited.  This  is  only  one  instance 
c»ut  of  hundreds  where  a  place  has  been  ruined  by  the 
Turkish  government.  Amid  such  evident  indications  of 
former  prosperity  and  of  natural  sources  of  wealth,  it  is 
painful  to  realize  to  what  wi'etchedness  a  robbing  and 
oppressive  government  can  reduce  those  regions  for  which 
it  should  provide,  and  in  whose  development  it  should  take 
some  interest. 

As  the  route  from  Fik  is  not  particularly  well  known,  I 
will  give  the  distances  as  we  made  them :  Fik  to  Jibrin,  a 
village  on  our  right,  fifty-five  minutes ;  Haitin  (accent  on 
the  first  syllable),  a  village  on  our  right,  twenty-five 
minutes ;  Khurbet  Serai,  where  there  are  ruins,  perhaps  of 


'324  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

an  old  castle,  and  good  water  is  abundant,  twenty-fivo 
minutes ;  Kuf  r  lima,  a  village  on  our  right,  ten  minutes  ; 
far  to  our  left  a  prominent  mound  with  a  great  tree  on  its 
summit,  called  TeU  ez  Zeituneh,  Nahr  Rukkad,  or  Ruggad 
one  houi*  and  five  minutes.  The  chasm  of  this  stream  is  five 
hundred  or  six  hundi'ed  feet  deep,  with  perpendicular  sides, 
while  the  country  on  both  sides  of  it  is  quite  level ;  it  is 
a  very  remarkable  canon.  Thence  to  lOian  Saida,  thirty- 
five  minutes;  Jisr  er  Rukkad,  three  hundi-ed  feet  long,  eight 
arches,  part  of  it  late  work  with  old  materials,  twenty 
minutes ;  east  of  the  bridge  is  a  large  cluster  of  fine  dol- 
mens. To  'Ain  Dhakar,  near  which  is  an  abundance  of 
water,  twenty-two  minutes.  In  ten  minutes  more  we 
struck  a  long  section  of  Roman  road,  straight,  with  pave- 
ment and  curb-stones  at  the  side  still  in  position.  Wady 
'Allan,  forty-five  minutes  from  'Ain  Dhakar ;  here  is  a 
bridge  with  five  arches,  chiefly  Roman  work.  Beyond 
this  to  Tseil,  twenty  minutes,  with  TeU  el  Faras  at  om- 
left.  Tell  Jemu'a  was  ahead,  but  we  swept  around  it  to 
the  south  and  east.  Nawa  is  one  hour  and  forty  minutes 
from  Tseil.  This  time  represents,  however,  something 
more  than  the  real  distance  between  Tseil  and  Nawa,  for 
it  was  the  last  part  of  our  journey,  the  roads  were  slippery, 
our  animals  were  tired,  and  we  came  at  a  slow  pace. 

The  dolmens,  to  which  I  have  referred,  occupied  the 
roughest  and  highest  ridges,  and  appeared  in  clusters. 
Quite  a  large  section  was  covered  by  them.  In  one 
instance  a  cone-shaped  block,  somewhat  more  than  four 
feet  thick,  was  employed  as  a  (iover  or  roof-stone.  I 
noticed  that  one  was  l)uilt  in  three  sections  which  rose 
one  above  the  other  like  so  many  stairs. 

Somewhere  in  this  region  was  situated  O-olan,  one  of  the 
cities  of  refuge   and  also  a  Levitical  city  (Deut.  iv.,  43; 


GOLAN  AND  ASHTEBOTH  KARNAIM.  325 

Josh.  XX.,  8;  xxi.,  27;  1.  Chron.  vi.,  21).  It  is  remarkable 
that  after  its  assignment  for  these  purposes  in  Deuteron- 
omy, Joshua,  and  I.  Chronicles,  it  is  never  afterwards  men- 
tioned in  the  Bible. 

The  name  is  mentioned  several  times  by  Josephus,  but 
nowhere  does  he  speak  of  it  as  existing  in  his  day.  His 
references  are  to  the  time  of  Alexander  Janneeus.  In 
"Wars,"  i.,  4,  4,  it  is  said  that  Alexander  was  defeated 
near  Golan,  his  army  being  caught  in  an  ambush  in  a 
deep  vaUey  and  destroyed.  But  in  the  corresponding 
account  in  the  "  Antiquities "  (xiii.,  13,  5),  the  place  is 
said  to  have  been  near  Gadara,  "  a  village  of  Gilead." 
This  passage,  therefore,  cannot  be  relied  upon  as  evidence. 
In  "  Wars,"  i.,  4,  8,  it  is  said  that  Alexander  demolished 
Golan  and  Seleueia.  The  same  account  appears  in  "  Antiq- 
uities," xiii.,  13,  3,  where  these  places  are  called  "  cities." 
In  "Antiquities,"  xiii.,  13,  4,  Josephus  speaks  of  the 
country  of  Gaulanitis,  which,  according  to  "  Wars,"  iv., 
1,  1,  was  divided  into  "upper"  and  "lower." 

If  it  was  destroyed  by  Alexander  Jannseus  there  is  a 
possibility  that  when  it  was  rebuilt  its  name  was  changed. 
Eusebius  and  Jerome  speak  of  Golan  as  a  large  village 
existing  in  their  day  in  Batanea  or  Bashan.  It  is  difiicult 
to  reconcile  this  statement  with  the  silence  of  the  Bible, 
and  of  Josephus  as  regards  his  own  time. 

It  is  well  known  that  a  wady  will  sometimes  preserve  an 
ancient  name  which  has  otherwise  entirely  disappeared 
from  a  given  region.  Thus  we  have  the  ancient  name 
Jabesh  preserved  in  that  of  Wady  Yabis,  and  existing 
at  present  nowhere  else.  One  of  the  large  tributaries 
of  the  Yarmuk,  or  Menadireh,  from  the  north-east,  is 
Wady  or  Nahr  'Allan.  This  name,  'Allan,  I  am  incHued 
to  regard  as  representing  the  ancient  Golan.  In  Deut. 
iv.,  43,  the  word  is  written  ^V^a.     In  Josh,  xxi.,   27,  the 


326  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

text  lias  yhi,^  but  the  heri  has  ■}^i:i ;  also,  in  xx.,  8,  we  find 
the  same  both  in  the  text  and  in  the  liert.  I.  Chron.  vi.,  71, 
has  -jViA.  The  Septuagint  has  Gaulon,  except  in  I.  Chron. 
vi.,  71,  where  the  reading  is  Golan.  It  may  be  noticed  that 
the  Targnm  of  Palestine  has  Dabera  in  place  of  Golan, 
in  Dent,  iv.,  43,  when  speaking  of  the  cities  of  refuge. 

The  name  in  Arabic  would  be  written  (^(Ma^,  or  CjM  ^ 

which  in  pronunciation  would  naturally  be  changed  by  the 
■a  ■a 

people  into  (j}]^  or  ,^/W-  Hebrew  rjimel  becomes 
Arabic  'ain,  and  u  is  changed  to  I  for  euphony.  The  last  two 
forms  would  have  the  same  pronunciation,  and  would  cor- 
respond exactly  to  'Allan  in  the  name  of  the  wady  just  given. 
Two  of  the  best  of  living  Arabic  scholars  say  that  this 
change  is  legitimate,  and  hence  that  this  wady  may  have 
preserved  to  the  present  time  the  name  of  this  ancient  city 
of  refuge.  Along  this  wady  there  are  two  places  of  impor- 
tance, and  only  two, — Tseil  and  Nawa.  The  latter  is  nearer 
the  source  of  Nalir  'Allan,  although  it  is  a  little  farther 
from  the  stream  itself  than  Tseil.  To  the  suggestion  that 
Nawa  might  be  the  site  of  Golan,  "J.  L.  P.,"  in  Smith's 
"  Bible  Dictionary,"  says  very  decidedly  :  "  For  this  there 
is  not  a  shadow  of  evidence,  and  Nawa,  besides,  is  much 
too  far  to  the  eastward."  But  since  these  words  were 
written,  the  ground  has  been  thoroughly  examined,  and  the 
objection  of  its  being  too  far  east  is  not  a  good  one.  The 
absence  of  any  suitable  ruin  between  this  place  and  the  Sea 
of  Galilee  is  also  an  important  fact. 

Nawa,  \aJ,  is  in  the  province  of  Jaulan,  a  name  which 
has  been  regarded  as  the  onlij  remnant  of  the  Hebrew 
Golan,  and  is  considered  to  be  its  most  important  town. 

If  the  testimony  of  the  Tabnud  is  to  be  received  with 
regard  to  the  cities  of  refuge  (see  above,  p.  287),  that  they 


GOLAN  AND  ASHTEBOTH  KABNAIM.  327 

were  situated  in  pairs  opposite  each  other  east  and  west  of 
the  Jordan,  and  that  they  were  equally  distant  from  each 
other  in  a  north  and  south  direction,  Nawa  would  not  be 
far  from  the  point  where  Grolan  should  be  sought.  This 
makes  the  distance  north  and  south  correct,  but  to  follow 
this  statement  literally  would  bring  Kedesh,  the  city 
corresponding  to  it  in  the  west,  at  Safed  rather  than  at 
Kedes,  where  it  has  been  supposed  it  should  be  located. 

The  name  Neveh,  ms,  appears  in  the  Talmud  as  the 
home  of  several  rabbis.  Eusebius  and  Jerome  speak  of  it 
as  a  city  of  the  Jews.  They  call  it,  however,  Nineve,  but 
locate  it  correctly  "in  the  angle  of  Ai'abia." 

The  Jewish  writers  state  that  near  Neveh  was  a  city 
called  Halamish  (le-^'aVn),  inhabited  by  strangers,  who  were 
hostile  to  the  people  of  Neveh.  "  In  Chalamish  dwelt 
the  enemies  of  Israel ;  and  in  Naveh,  a  town  near  it,  dwelt 
Jews,  and  these  were  afflicted  by  them  "  (Lightfoot,  x.,  p. 
359).  Navah,  n;;5,  is  an  old  Semitic  word,  signifying  io 
rest  or  to  ahkle  in  tranquillity,     nna  means  a  dwelling-place. 

If  this  place  has  any  connection  with  the  ancient  city  of 
refuge  for  which  we  are  seeking,  the  signification  of  the 
present  name,  which  has  come  down  from  Hebrew  times, 
is  aU  that  could  be  desired. 

It  is  possible  that  the  unfriendly  city  near  Neveh  may 
have  been  Tseil.  Eusebius  mentions  a  village  in  Batanea 
called  dapaiXa.  Jerome  calls  it  Thersila,  which  was  inhab- 
ited by  Samaritans.     These  would  certainly  be  enemies  of 

the  Jews.  The  word  Tseil  is  written  in  Arabic  Ju*J.  In 
Thersila,  the  r,  being  a  weak  letter,  could  readily  be 
dropped.  We  do  not  hesitate  to  regard  Tseil  as  repre- 
senting the  ancient  Thersila. 

The  fact  that  a  city  near  Nawa  was  inhabited  by  Samar- 
itans need  occasion  no  surprise  if  Josephus's  account  of  the 


328  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

method  by  which  people  from  other  sections  of  the  country, 
or  from  a  distance,  were  persuaded  to  settle  in  these  parts, 
is  carefully  examined  ("Antiquities,"  xvii.,  2,  2). 

With  regard  to  Nawa  we  have :  (1)  A  place  occupied 
exclusively  or  chiefly  by  Jews.  (2)  It  is  the  largest  town 
in  all  that  region,  and  its  ruins  are  the  most  important. 
(3)  The  signification  of  the  name  is  appropriate  to  a  city  of 
refuge:  (4)  It  is  near  Tsed,  a  city  that  could  easily  have 
been  the  one  occupied  by  strangers  and  hostile  to  the 
people  of  Neveh.  (5)  It  harmonizes  with  the  statement  of 
the  Talmud  regarding  the  location  of  the  cities  of  refuge. 
(6)  It  is  near  the  source  of  a  wady  named  'Allan,  which 
there  is  good  reason  to  suppose  represents  the  Hebrew 
Golan. 

I  will  add  here  also  a  few  suggestions  with  regard  to  one 
or  two  of  the  other  cities  of  half-Manasseh. 

Besides  the  "  Havoth  Jair"  which  have  no  r-pecifie- 
names,  we  find  only  five  cities  of  the  eastern  half-Manas- 
seh mentioned,  namely,  Ashtaroth,  Edrei,  Golan,  Kenath, 
and  Salchah.  This  supposes  that  Nobah  is  the  same  as 
Kenath,  and  Ashteroth  Karnaim  and  Beeshterah  are  the 
same  as  Ashtaroth. 

Three  of  these  are  very  important  :  Ashtaroth,  Edrei, 
and  Golan.  Golan  was,  as  we  have  just  seen,  a  city  of 
refuge,  and  also  a  Levitical  city,  while  Ashtaroth  was  a 
Levitical  city  and  one  of  the  capitals  of  King  Og,  Edi'ei 
being  the  other  capital.  The  great  battle  for  the  con- 
quest of  Bashan  was  fought  at  Edi-ei,  and  if  Ashteroth 
Karnaim  is  the  same  as  Ashtaroth,  the  place  becomes  the 
scene  of  an  Elamite  victory  by  Chedorlaomer,  nearly 
five  centuries  before  the  time  of  Moses.  The  Bible  fm*- 
iiishes  no  hints  as  to  the  location  of  these  places  further 
than  that  they  were  in  Bashan. 


GOLAN  AND  A8HTEB0TH  KARNAIM.  329 

As  to  Beeshterah  (Josh,  xxi.,  27),  the  explanation  is 
probably  the  correct  one  which  regards  it  as  a  contrac- 
tion of  Beth-Ashtaroth,  and  makes  it  identical  with 
Ashtaroth  (I.  Chron.  vi.,  71).  This  is  legitimate,  and 
harmonizes  the  Biblical  passages  which  relate  to  this 
subject. 

The  theory  which  would  derive  Bostra  (or  Bozrah)  from 
mn'i-sa  is  declared  by  'Noldeke  to  be  impossible  ("  Zeit- 
schrift  der  D.  M.  G.,"  1875,  p.  431). 

Special  pains  were  taken  to  examine  Tell  'Ashtara,  J^jJLd^, 
with  reference  to  its  being  the  site  of  Ashtaroth,  mnncy, 
of  the  Bible.  As  it  had  been  declared  that  the  names  were 
"  radically  different,"  our  examination  proved  that,  on  the 
contrary,  the  modern  name  corresponds  perfectly  with  the 
Hebrew  name.  Eusebius  and  Jerome  refer  to  Ashtaroth 
and  Ashteroth  Karnaim;  but  it  is  difficult,  if  not  impos- 
sible, to  reconcile  their  statements  with  any  known  facts. 
They  give  correctly  the  distance — respectively  twenty-five 
and  twenty-foui"  miles — from  Bostra  to  Adraa ;  in  the  same 
article,  however,  Ashtaroth  is  said  to  be  six  miles  from 
Adraa,  i.  e.,  the  modern  Dra'a.  But  the  distance  from 
Dra'a  to  Tell  'Ashtara  is  about  twelve  miles,  and  nine  from 
the  same  point  to  Mazarib.  Wetzstein  seems  to  think  that 
the  size  of  Tell  'Ashtara  is  an  important  objection  to  its 
being  the  site  of  Ashtaroth  ("Reisebericht,"  p.  109;  "Mon- 
astery of  Job,"  p.  427).  But  it  is  nowhere  stated  or  implied 
that  the  place  was  a  large  one.  It  would,  however,  always 
be  important,  because  of  its  abundance  of  never-failing 
fresh  water.  The  region  about  it,  too,  is  exceedingly  fertile, 
and,  when  cultivated,  must  have  had  the  appeai-ance  of  a 
vast  garden.  The  summit  of  the  mound  is  one  thousand 
nine  hundred  feet  above  the  sea  level,  sixty  or  more  feet 
above  the  surrounding  plain,  and  is  longer  from  north  to 
south  than  from  east  to  west.     From  north  to  south  the 


330  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

summit  is  nearly  one  thousand  paces,  and  it  took  us 
twenty  minutes  to  ride  around  the  base  of  the  mound. 
There  is  an  irregular  depression  on  the  summit,  running 
from  north-east  to  south-west,  which  divides  it  into  two 
portions.  It  is  very  probable  that  this  depression  was 
much  more  marked  in  ancient  times  than  at  present.  The 
remains  of  the  wall  around  the  brow  of  the  summit  we 
examined  with  care,  and  the  indications  are  that  it  has 
been  a  strongly  fortified  place.  There  are  ruins  of  Arab 
walls,  houses,  goat-pens,  and  graves  on  the  mound,  but 
they  have  no  archseological  importance.  On  the  south-west 
side  of  the  hill  there  stiU  exist  some  cyclopean  remains 
of  great  interest.  These  consist  chiefly  of  two  lines 
formed  of  immense  unhewn  blocks  of  stone,  starting 
from  a  point  in  the  plain  about  twenty-five  yards  from 
the  base  of  the  hill,  running  thence  to  the  base  and  up 
the  side  of  the  mound,  till  they  meet  the  wall  already 
mentioned,  around  the  summit.  At  the  point  in  the 
plain  where  we  have  said  these  walls  commence,  they  turn 
towards  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  space  is  left  for 
a  great  gate.  This  gate  and  passage  may  have  served  as 
the  entrance  to  a  castle ;  and  if  the  massiveness  of  the 
entrance  affords  any  hint  as  to  the  character  of  the  place, 
it  must  have  been  one  of  unusual  strength.  Being  forti- 
fied, it  is  the  only  place  in  aU  that  immediate  region 
whither  a  defeated  army  would  flee,  as  is  related  of 
Timotheus's  army  in  I.  Mace,  v.,  and  there  is  no  objec- 
tion to  regarding  it  as  the  C'arnaim  of  those  times. 

Our  camp  at  Nawa  was  near  some  large  trees  which 
stood  in  a  graveyard.  There  were  tombstones  Avhich  had 
Greek  inscriptions,  others  with  tribe  marks  upon  them, 
and  also  some  finely  ornamented  sarcophagi  were  scat- 
tered about.  Among  the  ruins  we  visited  those  of  a  fine 
edifice  which  tradition  calls  a  palace  of  Tamerlane.     The 


GOLAN  AND  ASHTEROTH  KABNAIM.  331 

usual  Hauran  ornamentation  appeared  here, — vines,  leaves, 
bunches  of  grapes,  and  rosettes.  We  found  the  people 
fanatical  and  not  disposed  to  show  us  any  favors,  but 
whether  it  was  on  account  of  the  fact  that  we  were 
foreigners,  or  because  we  had  government  horsemen  with 
us,  I  could  not  teU.  This  fact,  together  with  the  un- 
propitious  weather,  made  our  work  less  thorough  than 
it  otherwise  would  have  been.  We  acted  with  less  free- 
dom here  tjian  in  any  other  place  that  we  have  visited. 
I  suspect,  however,  that  our  horsemen  were  the  cause  of 
the  surly  looks  and  unfriendly  manner  of  the  inhabitants, 
for  at  one  of  the  villages  which  we  passed  the  same  day, 
the  people  would  at  fii-st  show  us  no  favors  because  they 
took  us  for  government  agents  and  spies.  It  happened 
that  one  of  om*  young  Enghsh  friends  wore  a  tarhush,  or 
red  fez,  and  seeing  this,  they  at  once  connected  us  with 
the  government.  After  an  explanation,  and  we  had  thor- 
oughly convinced  them  that  they  were  wrong,  their  conduct 
towards  us  changed  entirely,  and  they  treated  us  as  friends. 
Our  muleteers  took  our  animals  into  Nawa  for  the  night 
on  account  of  the  storm,  and  it  is  my  opinion  that  the 
people  would,  with  patience  on  our  part,  become  civil.  I 
have  never  yet  had  any  trouble  with  the  people  east  of 
the  Jordan,  and  I  believe  the  way  to  avoid  it  is  by  tact 
and  patience. 

It  may  be  of  interest  if  I  give  the  distances  from  Nawa 
south  to  Dra'a  and  El  Husn.  Nawa  to  Sheikh  S'ad,  an 
inhabited  village,  containing  also  four  welies,  one  hour  five 
minutes.  Neby  Eyub,  a  government  station,  where  are 
some  good  modern  buildings  and  many  tents,  soldiers,  and 
horses,  ten  minutes.  Neby  Eyub  was  given  as  the  former 
name  of  this  place.  In  fifteen  minutes,  'Adawan,  a  large 
village,  to  our  right.     Tell  'Ashtara  is  thirty-five  minutes 


332  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

from  Neby  Eyub.  To  the  east  of  Tell  'Ashtara  is  a  place 
caEed  'Ailma.  Es  Siri,  a  small  ruin  near  the  road  on 
our  right,  one  hour  five  minutes.  To  our  right,  thirty 
minutes  or  more,  a  large  mound  with  ruins,  called 
Tell  el  Ish  'ari.  Tufas,  about  one  hour  to  our  left.  Imme- 
diately south  of  Es  Siri  we  struck  Wady  H'reir,  which 
is  a  large  stream  formerly  crossed  by  a  bridge  of  nine 
arches,  eight  of  which  remain.  At  least  seven  of  these 
appeared  to  be  Roman  work.  Kulat  and  village  Mazarib, 
fifty  minutes.  Yadudi,  a  large  ruin  on  our  left,  fifty- 
five  minutes.  It  is  now  inhabited  by  a  few  families. 
Dra'a,  one  hour  and  twenty  minutes.  Remtheh,  one  hour 
fifty -five  minutes.  Bish'ra,  one  hour  and  fifty-five  minutes. 
Hawara,  fifteen  minutes.  Es  Sarih,  one  hour  five  minutes. 
El  Husn,  twenty- five  minutes.  The  great  fountain  at 
Mazarib  is  called  El  Bejjeh.  To  go  from  Nawa  past  Tell 
'Ashtara  is  to  go  a  little  off  the  main  or  most  direct  road 
between  Nawa  and  Dra'a. 


CHAPTER  XXVL 

Pilgrim   Caravans. 

Kich  prairies.  Furrows  a  mile  long.  Lake  at  Mazarib.  Flouring 
mills.  Rendezvous  of  pilgrims.  Caravans  to  Mecca.  Importance 
of  this  pilgrimage.  Men  become  too  lioly !  Details  of  the  out- 
fit. Waiting  for  stragglers.  Oriental  splendor.  Not  a  holiday 
journey.  Time  of  departure.  Numbers.  Animals.  Escort.  Eob- 
beries.  The  "treasure."  Cost  to  Damascus.  Pious  merchants. 
Slaves  and  "holy  things."  Description  of  the  "  Haj,"  or  pilgrim 
road.  "Bleaching  bones."  Poor  pilgrims  helped.  An  English- 
man in  disguise.  Routes  to  Bagdad.  Desert  and  overland 
trade. 

Camp  at  'Ain  Jenneh,  Sunday,  March  18,  1877. 

THE  whole  country  west  and  north  of  Tseil  and 
Nawa,  and  likewise  to  the  east  apd  south  as  far 
as  Dra'a  and  Remtheh,  is  like  the  richest  prairie  of  the 
"West.  The  natural  wealth  of  the  soil  here  is  a  con- 
stant surprise  to  me.  I  have  seen  men  on  this  plain 
turning  furrows  which  were  nearly  one  mile  in  length, 
and  as  straight  as  one  could  draw  a  line.  The  finest 
wheat  in  all  Syria  comes  from  these  lava  beds  on  these 
old   plains   of   Bashan. 

From  Nawa,  and   from   almost   any  other  point  in   all 
that  region,    Salchad  castle   forms  a  prominent  object  in 


334  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

the  landscape  to  the  south-east,  although  it  is  fifty  miles 
distant.  The  road  itself  between  Nawa  and  Dra'a  is 
splendid.  It  is  level,  straight,  free  from  stones,  and  one 
could  drive  a  carriage  along  it  with  ease. 

The  bridge  over  Wady  H'reir  was  originally  about  four 
hundred  feet  long.  The  pond  at  Mazarib  is  formed  entirely 
from  springs  at  the  bottom,  and  on  the  stream  flowing 
from  it  there  are  mills  which  look  more  like  flouring 
mills  in  America  than  any  others  that  I  have  seen  in 
Syiia.  The  warm  springs  on  the  west  side  of  this  pond 
do  not  make  any  perceptible  change  in  the  temperature 
of  the  water.  The  natives  assert  that  such  warm  springs 
exist.  There  is  here  a  large  khan  in  ruins,  although  it 
is  not  an  ancient  structure.  It  was  built  by  the  liber- 
ality of  a  woman  in  Damascus,  but  not  being  well  built, 
it  soon  fell  into  decay.  This  is  the  great  rendezvous  of 
pilgrims  going  to  Mecca,  and  even  in  dull  times  it  presents 
a  lively  and  stirring  appearance.  A  large  number  of 
camels  were  grazing  in  the  fields,  and  many  soldiers  were 
hanging  about  the  old  castle.  As  war  is  now  going  on, 
we  expect  soldiers  everywhere.  We  found  at  Mazarib, 
also,  that  people  were  rather  suspicious  of  us  until  they 
ascerl^ained  who  we  were  and  what  our  object  was.  They 
have  been  pressed  for  back  taxes,  and  for  advance  taxes, 
and  war  contributions,  and  the  country  has  been  scoured 
for  recruits,  until  the  advent  of  a  government  officer  or 
any  person  connected  with  the  government  is  a  most 
unwelcome  event.  At  Fik  our  men  had  arrived  before  us 
and  evei'ything  had  lieen  explained  satisfactorily,  although 
we  had  a  horseman  with  us,  so  that  when  we  arrived  the 
people  welcomed  us.  Among  other  things  in  our  favor, 
they  said  that  the  government  officers  took  money  from 
the  inhabitants  while  we  spent  ours  among  them,  and 
that  made  a  vast  difference  with  the  poor  inhabitants. 


PILGBIM  CARAVANS.  335 

At  Mazarib  we  saw  several  remnants  of  the  caravan 
of  pilgrims  that  had  recently  returned  from  Mecca.  After 
passing  Nabatiyeh  on  our  way  to  Tiberias  we  encountered 
a  large  number  of  them,  who  had  left  the  caravan  route 
at  some  point  on  the  Hauran  plain,  and  were  making  their 
way  to  their  homes  west  of  the  Jordan.  This  was,  indeed, 
one  of  the  most  exciting  scenes  I  ever  witnessed  in  Syria. 
The  whole  population  of  the  villages  near  by  had  turned 
out  to  meet  them,  and  no  prince  or  king  could  ask  for  a 
more  brilliant  ovation.  Sheikhs  and  wise  men,  peasants, 
and  even  beggars,  with  women  and  children,  had  arrayed 
themselves  in  theii*  gayest  attire,  and  with  music  and  danc- 
ing, di'ums  and  muskets,  or  mounted  on  showy  steeds, 
thronged  the  roads  to  welcome  those  who,  in  their  estimation, 
had  achieved  the  one  great  event  of  life.  The  people  were 
frantic  in  their  demonstrations,  and  while  I  partook  of  the 
general  excitement,  I  felt  that  as  an  "  infidel,"  or  a  "  dog," 
my  safest  position  was  beyond  the  reach  of  the  prancing 
horses  and  the  spears  of  their  riders.  Yet,  possibly,  there 
was  no  real  danger,  for  I  passed  once  entirely  through  the 
boisterous  crowd  and  was  not  molested ;  and,  in  fact,  I 
could  not  say  that  I  was  even  noticed.  The  pilgrims  on  their 
part  were  well  browned,  and  some  of  them  almost  black- 
ened, by  the  sun  and  dust  of  the  desert,  but  they  were 
delighted  with  the  attention  which  they  received,  and  it  is 
just  possible  that  their  soiled  clothing  and  personal  filth 
heightened  the  sentiment  of  holy  pride  which  they  felt  at 
being  thus  highly  honored  for  having  made  the  great  pil- 
grimage, and  seen  Medina  and  Mecca.  But  amid  all  the 
rejoicing  I  could  not  fail  to  notice  the  worn  and  jaded 
appearance  of  the  beasts  of  burden  which  these  people 
rode,  a  silent  testimony  to  the  fact  that  a  journey  across 
the  desert  is  always  attended  with  hardships,  and  some- 
times with  death. 


336  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

I  do  not  wonder  that  a  pious  Moslem  should  desire  to 
visit  Mecca,  and  make  every  effort  to  do  so,  for  he  is  ever 
after  held  in  great  respect  by  his  fellow- citizens.  But  a 
single  visit  proves  in  practice  to  be  better  than  many ;  for 
those  who  undertake  a  second  begin  to  feel  on  their  return 
that  they  are  holier  than  their  neighbors,  while  the  man 
who  has  made  his  third  visit  is  elevated  to  such  a  state  of 
holiness  that  he  considers  himself  to  be  above  all  law,  and 
becomes  a  nuisance. 

The  real  splendor  of  a  caravan  of  pilgrims  appears, 
however,  at  the  time  of  starting,  when  men  and  beasts  of 
burden  are  fresh,  and  while  their  showy  costumes  of  silk 
and  gold  are  not  yet  begrimed  with  dirt.  But  the  magni- 
tude and  display  of  the  caravans  that  leave  Damascus  for 
Mecca  have  been  diminished  very  much  since  the  opening 
of  the  Suez  Canal,  which  was  so  great  an  innovation  upon 
the  unchangeable  habits  and  customs  of  the  Orientals  as 
for  a  time  to  make  it  doubtful  whether  the  "  holy  men  •' 
would  not  continue  to  use  the  "  ships  of  the  desert "  in 
preference  to  the  "  ships  of  the  infidels"  upon  the  sea.  If 
the  success  of  the  canal  astonished  the  Western  world, 
it  was  certainly  a  surprise  to  the  Moslems  of  Syria  and 
Arabia. 

All  Moslem  influences  in  Western  Asia  are  stationary  or 
retrogressive,  while  the  canal,  as  the  result  of  civilization, 
was  an  event  of  progress.  If  these  facts  were  brought  into 
permanent  connection,  one  must  yield ;  and  the  world 
rejoices  that  civilization  triumphed.  Even  Moslem  fanati- 
cism gives  way  to  self-interest,  and  the  modern  followers 
of  the  prophet  have  so  far  broken  away  from  the  fetters  of 
custom  as  to  prefer  to  go  to  Mecca  by  sea  when  this  is  in 
their  power.  The  sea  voyage  from  Syrian  and  Egyptian 
ports  to  Jeddah  shortens  the  time  of  the  journey,  and 
has  comparative  ease,  comfort,  and  safety  to  recommend 


PILGRIM  CARAVANS.  337 

it,  while  the  caravan  is  slow,  expensive,  and  sometimes 
uncertain . 

But  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  the  caravans  have  steadily 
decreased  in  size  since  the  opening  of  the  canal,  they  are 
not  entirely  shorn  of  their  splendor  and  numerical  strength, 
and  whoever  has  seen  them  setting  out  from  Damascus  has 
witnessed  what,  from  an  Oriental  stand-point,  is  a  beautiful 
and  splendid  sight. 

The  caravans  have  really  two  starting-points ;  one  is 
Damascus  and  the  other  is  at  this  place,  Mazarib,  three 
days  distant  to  the  south.  Here  there  is  a  castle  and  a 
large  khan,  to  which  I  have  already  referred,  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  pilgrims ;  and,  what  is  of  greater  moment, 
the  large  pond  or  small  lake  of  sweet,  fresh  water,  formed 
entirely  by  springs  at  the  bottom,  as  I  have  described, 
makes  this  a  very  suitable  place  for  completing  their  final 
arrangements.  On  these  broad  fields  of  ancient  Bashan, 
the  caravans  halt  to  rest  and  reorganize.  Perhaps  in  the 
excitement  at  Damascus  some  were  left  behind,  others 
from  other  sections  of  the  country  are  expecting  to  join  the 
main  body  here,  the  outfit  of  provisions  and  clothing  may 
be  incomplete,  the  number  of  beasts  of  burden  may  not 
be  sufficient,  or  the  proper  guard  has  not  come  up,  so 
that  a  thorough  overhauling  and  rearranging  becomes 
necessary.  Besides,  the  holiday  part  of  the  pilgrimage 
ends  here ;  those  who  go  on  from  this  point  must  address 
themselves  to  the  real  hardships  of  the  desert,  and  at 
least  a  few  need  such  an  opportunity  as  is  thus  afforded 
of  considering  whether  in  undertaking  this  journey  they 
have  been  prompted  by  fickle  enthusiasm  or  a  determined 
purpose. 

The  need  of  special  care  as  to  the  outfit  will  be  appreci- 
ated when  it  is  remembered  that  every  Haj,  or  pilgrim, 
must  provide  for  himself  throughout  the  whole  journey, 
15 


338  EAST  OF  THE  JOBBAN. 

and  that  the  time  from  Mazarib  to  Medina  is  twenty  days, 
with  a  stretch  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  addition 
before  Mecca  is  reached. 

Damascus  is  the  place  where  many  of  the  gorgeous  cos- 
tumes stni  worn  in  Central  Asia  are  manufactured,  and  at 
the  season  of  the  departure  of  the  Haj,  large  numbers  of 
the  Shiite  branch  of  the  Moslems  from  the  East  visit  the 
city  and  purchase  quantities  of  such  articles,  which  are  then 
taken  to  Mecca  or  Medina,  and  laid  on  the  tomb  of  the 
prophet,  acquiring  thereby,  it  is  supposed,  an  unusual 
sanctity,  on  which  account  they  are  highly  prized  as  pres- 
ents to  their  protectors  or  friends. 

The  Haj  leave  Damascus  within  a  week  or  ten  days  after 
Beiram,  i.  f .,  the  "  Lesser  Beiram,"  which  follows  immedi- 
ately the  fast  of  Ramadan.  But  this  may  occur  in  any 
month  during  the  year,  since  the  Aral)ic  is  the  lunar  year ; 
and  hence  they  are  sometimes  subjected  to  very  serious 
inconveniences,  which,  however,  cannot  be  helped.  They 
plan  their  journey  so  as  to  enter  Mecca  the  day  before  the 
Kurban,  or  Great  Beiram. 

It  is  next  to  impossible  to  ascertain  the  exact  number  of 
pilgrims,  or  the  number  of  camp-followers, —  camel-drivers, 
soldiers,  servants,  and  others, — or  the  number  of  beasts  of 
burden,  which  make  up  the  yearly  caravans  to  Mecca.  This 
is  owing  mainly  to  the  fact  that  an  Oriental  takes  notice  of 
nothing  except  what  immediately  concerns  his  own  inter- 
ests, and  can  give  but  little  information  about  what  goes 
[on  around  him.  The  details  here  given  are  based  upon  an 
examination  of  the  government  books  at  Damascus,  and 
upon  conversations  either  with  the  official  representatives 
of  foreign  countries,  or  with  persons  of  intelligence  among 
the  Moslems,  who  have  themselves  made  the  pilgrimage. 

Before  the  Suez  Canal  was  opened,  the  numlier  of  pil- 
grims that  went  by  land  from  Damascus  was  estimated  at 


PILGBIM  CABAVANS.  339 

from  ten  to  twelve  thousand  annually;  while  the  number  is 
reduced  at  present  to  about  four  thousand.  This  does  not 
include  the  camp-foUowers,  to  whom  allusion  has  already 
been  made.  "  Of  the  whole  caravan,"  says  Burckhardt, 
writing  in  1812,  "  not  above  one-tenth  were  real  pUgrims ; 
the  rest  consisted  of  soldiers,  the  servants  of  the  soldiers, 
people  attached  to  the  pasha's  suite,  merchants,  peddlers, 
camel-dinvers,  coffee  and  pipe  waiters,  a  swarm  of  Bedawin, 
together  with  several  tents  of  public  women  from  Damas- 
cus, who  were  so  far  encouraged  that,  whenever  they  were 
unable  to  obtain  from  their  lovers  the  daily  food  for  then.' 
horses  and  mules,  they  obtained  a  supply  from  the  pasha's 
stores"  ('^Travels,"  p.  243).  This  careful  observer  speaks 
also  of  the  extortion  practised  by  the  conductors  of  the 
caravans,  which  was  carried  to  such  a  degree  that  the  pil- 
grims were  often  ruined  by  it.  In  addition,  there  was  a 
great  amount  of  thieving  and  robbery,  "  and  it  is  more  the 
want  of  sleep  from  fear  of  being  plundered,  than  the  fatigue 
of  the  journey,  which  causes  the  death  of  so  many  pilgrims." 
Further,  "  the  pasha's  troops,  which  bring  up  the  rear  of 
the  caravan,  have  often  been  known  to  kill  straggling  pil- 
grims during  the  night,  in  order  to  strip  them  of  their 
property."  Besides,  the  hire  of  camels  at  that  time  was  so 
great,  and  the  expenses  on  the  road  and  at  Mecca  were  so 
much,  that  a  pilgrimage  could  not  be  made  in  the  most 
humble  way  for  less  than  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
pounds  sterling. 

Since  Biirckhardt's  time  some  of  the  abuses  here  referred 
to  have  been  corrected  in  part;  at  least,  the  general 
expenses  have  been  reduced ;  less  extortion  is  practised  by 
the  conductors,  and  for  the  last  fifteen  or  twenty  years  the 
Arab  tribes  along  the  road  have  been  compromised  with, 
that  is,  bought  off,  so  that  the  caravans  are  no  longer 
attacked  and  plundered  in  such  a  wholesale  way  as  for- 


340  EAST  OF  THE  JOED  AN. 

merly.  While  the  expenses  for  the  round  trip  cannot  be 
small,  as  a  rule,  considering  that  the  caravan  is  a  month 
on  the  way,  and  stays  a  month  in  Mecca,  and  returns  to 
Damascus  in  three  and  a  half  to  four  months  from  the 
time  of  starting,  yet  it  is  possible  for  a  poor  man  to 
make  the  trip  in  these  days  for  twenty-five  pounds,  or 
something  over  one  hundred  dollars. 

The  number  of  animals  employed  depends  entii'ely  upon 
the  wealth  and  position  of  the  parties  who  are  making  the 
pilgrimage.  Some  persons  have  only  a  mule  or  a  horse, 
which  they  ride  all  the  way,  and  carry  then*  own  provision 
in  their  bags.  Such  can  take  with  them,  of  course,  only 
the  most  limited  supply  of  clothing.  The  large  majority, 
however,  employ  camels,  which  are  the  only  proper  beasts 
for  desert  travelling.  The  camels  are  supplied  to  the 
pilgrims  by  the  various  Arab  tribes  occupying  the  great 
plains  south  of  Damascus,  including  even  the  Beni  Sakhr, 
whose  territory  lies  just  east  of  the  ancient  Heshbon. 
Burckhardt  speaks  of  one  sheikh,  living  at  Shem  skein 
(Sheikh  Miskin),  who,  in  his  time,  furnished  fifteen  hun- 
dred camels  and  accompanied  them  himself  to  Mecca. 
The  caravans  number  at  present  from  foiu'  thousand  to 
six  thousand  camels,  and  the  pilgrims  and  others  seldom 
buy  or  own  their  beasts  of  burden,  but  depend  entii'ely 
upon  hiring,  making  with  their  owners  the  best  bargain 
they  can,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  state  what  the  gen- 
eral price  is.  It  sometimes  happens  that  beasts  of 
burden  die  on  the  way,  and  this  fact  has  to  be  con- 
sidered at  the  outset,  and  extra  animals  taken  for 
emergencies. 

The  whole  caravan  is  under  the  charge  of  a  certain 
Mahomet  Said  Pasha,  a  Koord,  living  in  Damascus,  who 
has  made  the  journey  as  leader  for  many  years.  Besides 
him,  there  is  an  official  who  has  special  charge  of  the  gov- 


PILGRIM  CABAVAN8.  341 

ernment  presents  to  Mecca,  and  who  always  comes  from 
Constantinople.  There,  is  a  so-called  "  military  "  or  "  cav- 
ahy"  force,  which  consists  of  mounted  Bedamn  and  Arabs, 
in  government  pay,  and  which,  with  field-pieces,  accom- 
panies the  Haj  both  in  going  and  coming.  These  irregular 
'^  braves  "  belong  to  no  particular  tribe,  and,  so  long  as  they 
are  employed  by  the  government,  they  do  not  plunder — 
except  in  the  mild  form  of  pOferiug — the  pilgrims  and 
others  whom  they  undertake  to  escort.  The  government 
sends  out  every  year  what  is  called  a  "  relief  party,"  to 
meet  the  returning  caravan.  They  start  from  Damascus  a 
little  before  the  Haj  is  supposed  to  leave  Mecca  on  its 
homeward  journey,  and  take  with  them  provisions,  pow- 
der, spare  gun-carriage  wheels,  and  some  extra  beasts  of 
burden. 

A  large  item  connected  with  the  expense  of  the  caravans 
is  the  care  of  the  "  mahmal "  with  the  yearly  i)resents  for 
Mecca  from  Constantinople.  A  special  officer,  as  we  have 
seen,  accompanies  this,  and  the  ceremony  attending  its 
transport  is  great.  Tliis  present  being  of  such  value,  and 
the  risks  of  the  desert  route  being  so  great,  it  is  probable 
that  the  government  at  Stambul  will  hereafter  send  it  by 
sea.  In  theory,  the  Constantinople  government  bears  this 
part  of  the  expense ;  but  the  poor  sultans  have  had  so 
many  wives  and  so  much  war  material  to  pay  for,  that  they 
could  not  spare  money  for  religion,  and  the  burden  for  the 
past  few  years  has  fallen  upon  Damascus ;  and  that  this  is 
no  light  burden  for  an  impoverished  country  may  be  seen 
from  the  fact  that  in  1873  the  Damascus  treasury  had  to 
fui'nish  for  the  caravan  seventy  thousand  ''  purses,"  a  sum 
equal  to  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  pounds. 
Sending  the  "  mahmal "  by  sea  saves  a  large  part  of  this 
expense ;  still,  the  cost  to  Damascus  of  the  yearly  caravan 
is   about  forty  thousand  pounds.     lu  1876  it  was  forty- 


342  ■  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

two  tliousand  five  hundi-ed  and  seventy-five  pounds,  and 
this  year,  1877,  thirty-nine  thousand  and  ninety  one 
pounds. 

AJlusion  has  been  made  to  the  fact  that  merchants 
accompany  the  caravans  in  considerable  numbers,  and  it  is 
estimated  that  about  one-third  of  the  pilgrims  themselves 
belong  tg  this  class.  In  regard  to  the  practice  of  blend- 
ing religion  and  business,  Moslems  take  the  prophet  as 
their  example,  for  it  is  supposed  to  be  authentic  history 
that  Mohammed,  when  a  young  man,  made  commercial 
journeys  with  his  uncle,  and  on  one  or  more  occasions 
went  as  far  north  as  Bozrah,  a  place  very  much  fre- 
quented by  Arabian  traders.  But,  besides  the  regular 
merchants,  almost  all  the  pUgrims  take  something  for 
barter  or  trade  in  a  small  way.  It  is  now  customary 
for  the  merchants  to  send  their  bulk}^  goods  by  sea,  but 
still  a  great  deal  of  merchandise  goes  by  the  desert. 
They  bring  back  "holy  things,"  such  as  beads,  spices, 
feathers,  carpets,  and  slaves.  As  nearly  as  I  can  ascertain, 
as  many  as  fifty  or  sixty,  and  sometimes  eighty  slaves, —  an 
estimate  which  is  probably  too  low, — chiefiy  boys  and  girls, 
are  brought  back  to  Damascus  every  year  by  the  returning 
Mecca  pilgrims  and  merchants.  For  these  a  ready  sale  is 
found.  I  have  a  friend  in  Beirut  who  is  the  agent  of  a 
Manchester  firm,  and  one  of  his  customers  residing  in 
Damascus  makes  the  pilgrimage  to  Mecca  every  yeai',  and 
brings  back  regularly  a  lot  of  slaves.  In  the  year  1876  he 
brought  twenty,  all  females.  He  obtained  for  them  in 
Damascus  more  than  double  the  price  they  cost  him  in 
Mecca.  He  was  very  frank  to  admit  that  it  was  quite  com- 
mon for  the  Moslems  to  exchange  the  merchandise  which 
they  took  with  them  for  slaves,  because  in  that  way  they 
could  realize  two  or  three  times  the  value  of  their  goods. 
Dealing  in  slaves  is  not  confined  to  Damascus,  for  even  in 


PILGBIM  CABAVANS,  343 

Beirut,  a  city  half  Europeanized,  I  know  of  two  houses, 
aud  there  are  probably  others,  where  slaves  are  sold. 
They  are  brought  up  from  Alexandria,  two,  thi^ee,  or 
more  at  a  time,  as  "  servants,"  but  designed  really  for  the 
slave  market. 

At  the  same  time,  the  Turkish  and  Egyptian  govern- 
ments have  made  numerous  pledges  to  the  governments  of 
civilized  countries  that  the  slave-trade  should  be  sup- 
pressed, aud  every  now  and  then  their  high  officials 
assure  the  Enghsh  pubhc  that  the  "  outrageous  traffic  has 
ceased,"  and  that  "  slavery  is  at  an  end  throughout  the 
Turkish  empire."  The  friends  of  Turkey  abroad  may 
believe  this  statement,  but  those  Americans  or  Europeans 
who  are  obhged  to  reside  anywhere  in  the  empu-e  itself 
know  that,  like  other  Turkish  official  statements,  it  is 
largely  destitute  of  truth.  The  worst  of  it  is  that  the 
government  and  people  of  Turkey  have  no  real  desire  to 
suppress  the  slave  traffic,  and  put  forth  no  efforts  to  that 
end,  except  such  as  they  are  compelled  to  by  Christian 
governments. 

People  who  have  never  seen  the  Haj  road  may  imagine 
that  it  resembles  a  turnpike,  or  some  public  highway  in 
our  own  country.  But,  on  the  contrary,  it  consists  of  a 
number  of  narrow  paths  or  trails,  lying  side  by  side, 
some  of  which  are  deeply  and  others  but  slightly  worn. 
After  leaving  Mazarib,  the  road  skirts  the  western  border 
of  the  plain,  but  avoids  the  Gilead  and  Moab  hills,  and 
thus  passes  over  a  comparatively  level  country.  At  in- 
tervals, all  the  way  to  Mecca,  there  are  small  forts,  in 
some  or  all  of  which  there  are  a  few  soldiers.  The  forts 
are  generally  biult  at  or  near  the  points  where  water  can 
be  obtained. 

In  referring  to  the  pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  or  to  the  Haj 
road,  writers  often  describe  the  way  as  "  lined  with  bones 


344  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

bleaching  on  tlie  desert  sands,"  and  the  impression  is  con- 
veyed that  the  mortality  among  the  camels  is  something 
frightful.  A  popular  writer,  "  upon  seeing  his  first  camel," 
spoke  of  their  being  unable  to  endure  hardships,  and  that 
on  any  long  journey  they  would  ''  die  like  sheep."  It  is 
quite  possible  that  a  sheep  dies  when  it  stops  breathing, 
and  that  a  camel  dies  in  like  manner ;  but  there  the  com- 
parison ends.  In  Abyssinia,  in  India,  or  in  Central  Asia, 
where  these  animals  are  largely  used  by  the  English  army, 
for  transportation,  they  die  in  great  numbers,  simply 
because  they  are  overladen,  overdriven,  and  not  properly 
cared  for  in  other  respects.  But  the  mortality  among 
the  camels  on  the  journey  to  Mecca  is  reduced  to  a  mini- 
mum, and  so  far  from  the  road  being  lined  with  bones, 
one  may  travel  on  it  for  miles  and  days  together,  as  I  have 
done,  and  seldom  see  a  bone.  When  the  Haj  are  obliged  to 
make  the  journey  during  the  rainy  season,  the  camels  are 
liable  to  slip  and  f  aU,  and  this  is  the  chief  cause  of  mortal- 
ity among  them.  If  a  camel  slips  and  falls,  he  is  built  in 
such  a  way  that  he  may  "vvrench  or  ruin  his  body ; 
hence,  in  bad  weather,  the  legs  of  these  animals  are 
frequently  tied  so  as  to  prevent  them  from  spreading 
too  far.  But  there  are  no  hardships  connected  with 
the  ordinary  journeys  to  Mecca  which  a  camel  cannot 
easily  endure.  It  should  be  observed,  however,  that  if 
a  camel  were  reduced  to  bones,  there  would  be  enough 
to  litter  half  an  acre  of  ground,  or  at  least  two  miles 
of  any  given  road.  In  harmony  with  the  popular 
notion,  one  often  sees,  in  pictures  which  represent  camels 
upon  a  desert,  a  few  bones  in  the  backgroiind,  as  if 
the  desert  were  covered  with  them;  but,  on  the  Nineveh 
slabs,  there  are  pictures  of  camels  and  desert  scenes 
as  true  and  life-like  as  if  drawn  by  the  most  skOful 
hand  in  the  world,  and  a  noticeable  thing  about  them  is 


PILGRIM  CARAVANS.  345 

that  tlie  Assyrian  artists  saw  no  reason  for  strewing  the 
sand  about  the  camels  with  bleaching  bones. 

Haj  'Ali,  whom  I  have  before  mentioned  as  having 
emjjloyed  in  the  capacity  of  guide  and  hunter,  made  the 
pilgrimage  to  Mecca  twenty-one  years  ago,  i.  e.,  in  1856. 
He  gave  it  as  his  opinion,  that  a  poor  man  could  not  make 
the  journey  unless  in  the  capacity  of  camel-diiver  or 
servant,  and  he  must  be  strong,  for  a  feeble  person  could 
not  do  it.  He  stated  that  at  certain  places  on  the  road, 
the  regular  pUgrims  who  had  means  were  expected  to 
contribute  something  for  the  assistance  of  the  very  poor 
ones.  He  also  testified  that  while  at  certain  places  bones 
were  seen,  not  a  gi*eat  many  animals  died. 

It  is  extremely  hazardous  for  a  European  to  attempt  to 
make  the  journey  to  Mecca  with  the  regular  caravans ; 
yet,  in  very  rare  instances,  it  has  been  done.  The 
"faithful"  on  such  occasions  are  full  of  zeal,  and  give 
the  poor  "  infidel "  no  quarter.  When  the  Haj  left  in 
November,  1876,  a  certain  Englishman  waited  upon  the 
British  Consul  in  Damascus,  and  stated  that  he  desired 
to  accompany  the  Haj  to  Mecca,  and  requested  that  the 
Consul  give  him  ofi&cial  authority  and  protection  for  his 
journey.  The  Consul  informed  him  that  he  was  asking 
for  something  that  could  not  possibly  be  granted.  What 
authority  had  the  English  government  along  the  Haj 
road,  and  at  Medina  or  Mecca  ?  But  the  gentleman 
wished  hun  to  intercede  with  the  (xovernor  of  Damascus 
and  with  the  leader  of  the  caravan,  to  see  if  they  would 
not  insure  his  protection.  The  Governor  replied  that  it 
was  a  thing  entirely  out  of  his  power,  and  the  leader  of 
the  caravan  said  he  had  no  control  over  the  pilgrims  in 
any  such  matter  as  that,  and  that  if  the  gentleman 
attempted  to  go  he  would  most  probably  be  kUled.  The 
Consul  saw  no  more  of  this  importunate  adventurer; 
15* 


346  EAST  OF  THE  JOED  AN. 

and,  about  two  months  after  the  caravan  had  started,  he 
heard,  from  one  of  the  forts  far  down  towards  Medina, 
that  a  certain  "  Franghi "  had  been  found  in  disguise 
among  the  camp-followers,  and  the  leader,  not  daring  to 
have  him  go  on,  and  not  knowing  what  else  to  do  with 
him,  had  directed  the  soldiers  at  that  place  to  detain  and 
take  care  of  him  untd  the  caravan  should  return,  when 
he  would  see  that  the  man  was  taken  back  to  Damascus. 
The  Consul  knew,  from  the  description,  that  it  was  the 
same  person  who  had  asked  him  for  British  protection 
on  the  wild  Arabian  deserts.  This  man  wished  to  copy 
some  Nabathean  inscriptions  which  he  had  heard  of  at 
some  place  down  in  Arabia,  and  it  is  a  pity  he  could  not 
carry  out  his  project,  although  his  attempt  to  accompany 
the  Haj  can  be  spoken  of  only  as  rash  and  foolhardy. 

In  this  connection  it  will  not  be  out  of  place  to  speak 
of  the  caravan  routes  between  Damascus  and  Bagdad. 
The  "  express  trains,"  or  caravans  which  carry  the  mad, 
occupy  from  ten  to  fourteen  days  between  the  two  points, 
the  time  varying  a  little  according  to  the  season  of  the 
year.  The  freight  caravans  require  from  thirty  to  forty 
days  to  make  the  same  distance.  On  the  route,  there  are 
four  or  five  plac^es  where  the  caravans  stop  for  water  and 
rest.  This  is  called  the  direct  route,  and  the  Bedawin 
along  it  have,  of  late  years,  allowed  the  caravans  to  pass 
without  molestation.  There  is  also  a  long  route  by  way 
of  Aleppo  and  Mosul,  which  requires  sixty  or  seventy 
days,  but  this  is  no  longer  used  to  any  extent.  Since 
the  Suez  Canal  was  opened,  trade  has  been  diverted  fi-om 
the  old-established  centres,  and  decay  and  stagnation  have 
settled  down  upon  the  once  prosperous  and  flourishing 
city  of  Damascus.  Formerly  there  was  a  large  trade  in 
Enghsh  and  foreign  manufactures  between  Damascus  and 
Bagdad,  but  this  has  now  nearly  ceased,  and  the  incom- 


PILGBIM  CAEAVANS.  347 

ing  caravans  bring  only  butter,  sldns,  timbak,  etc., — 
articles  of  comparatively  small  value.  Nothing  is  done 
now  where  formerly  there  were  large  business  interests ; 
taxes  are  heavy  and  oppressive,  while  the  means  to  meet 
the  imperative  demands  of  the  government  are  rapidly 
diminishing  year  by  year,  and  ruinous  debts  and  poverty 
are  staring  in  the  face  of  the  once  wealthy  families  of 
this  ancient  metropolis. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 
An  Underground  City. 

El  Bejjeh — a  fine  lake.  Euined  towns.  People  of  Dra'a  friendly. 
Exploring  the  underground  city.  Skeleton  and  frightened  guides. 
Three  cities,  one  above  another.  Wetzstein's  report.  Exten- 
sive apartments.  Risk.  Crusaders  suffering  for  water.  Point  for 
excavations.  Sheikh  of  Bish'ra.  Storm.  El  Husn.  Schoolmaster 
and  Greek  priest.  Great  mound.  Rough  night.  Tents  blown 
down.  Mahueh.  Diversified  scenery.  Richness  and  beauty  of  the 
Gilead  hills.  Tax  collectors.  Revolution.  The  '' patriotic  loan." 
Government  indifferent  to  its  suffering  people. 

Camp  at  'Ain  Jenneh. 

A  T  Nawa,  we  were  informed  that  Wady  'Allan  is  tlie 
i\  dividing  line  between  Jaulan  and  Jedur ;  that 
Wady  H'reir  is  the  dividing  line  between  Jedur  and 
the  Hauran.  Nawa  is  said  to  be  included  at  present  in 
the  district  of  Jedur.  How  old  these  divisions  were,  I 
could  not  learn.  Wady  'AUan  conies  from  near  TeU  el 
Harra.  It  is  a  fine  stream,  and  is  called  a  river  ("nahr"); 
but  the  stream  in  Wady  H'reir  was  larger  than  this  when 
we  crossed  it,  and,  from  the  debris  on  the  stones  and 
bushes,  it  must  at  times  be  a  broad,  deep,  wild  toirent. 

The  H'reir  does  not  enter  El  Bejjeh, —  /.  e.,  the  lake  at 
Mazarib, — as  represented  hitherto  on  the  best  maps,  but 


AN   UNDERGROUND   CITY.  349 

passes  two  miles  or  more  to  the  north  of  it.  This  place 
must  always  have  attracted  settlers,  and  one  would  almost 
expect  to  find  it  mentioned  in  the  Bible. 

In  going  south  from  Mazarib,  the  Haj  road,  which  goes 
direct  to  Remtheh,  passes  at  some  distance  to  the  west  of 
Dra'a. 

Yadudi  appears  like  one  of  the  better  class  of  Hauran 
towns.  On  the  west  of  the  village  there  seems  to  have 
been  a  large  artificial  reservoir.  The  supporting  wall  is 
formed  of  large  squared  stones  with  the  bevel.  The  place 
had  at  least  one  very  deep  cistern,  which  is  now  in  ruins. 
The  columns  and  some  of  the  stone  string-pieces  which 
supported  the  roof  still  remain. 

Wlien  the  sun  appeared  after  the  storm  at  Nawa,  we  saw 
some  fine  mirages.  In  one  place  appeared  a  beautiful  lake, 
and  in  another  a  vast  field  on  fire,  where  heated  vapor  and 
black  flames  swept  along,  as  though  the  whole  plain  were 
in  a  blaze.  Sometimes  hills  rose  like  islands,  or  appeared  as 
if  they  had  been  cut  horizontally  and  the  parts  separated. 
While  these  things  were  mere  illusions,  yet  so  many  and 
varied  and  striking  were  the  pictures  that  one  would  tje 
perfectly  satisfied  to  be  deceived.  It  was  remarkable  into 
what  a  romantic  and  poetical  region  these  mirages  could 
transform  the  broad  plains  of  the  Hauran. 

At  Dra'a  we  found  the  sheikli  and  his  people  very  hospi- 
table. In  former  times,  however,  -the  inhabitants  of  the 
place  have  had  a  bad  reputation.  The  sheikh  sent  his  son 
to  show  us  the  underground  caves.  My  purpose  was  to 
explore  these  thoroughly,  and  make  a  plan  of  them,  but 
in  this  I  was  only  partly  successful.  We  had  been  through 
several  chambers,  galleries,  and  avenues,  when  we  entered 
a  small  room  and  followed  a  passage  leading  out  of  it,  that 
had  been  cut  through  the  solid  rock.  We  soon  were  obliged 
to  go  on  our  hands  and  knees,  and  after  proceeding  about 


350  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

thirty  yards  our  guide  came  upon  a  human  skeleton,  at 
which  he  was  so  shocked  that  he  refused  to  go  any  farther, 
and  we  were  forced  to  return,  for  although  with  our  whole 
party  we  could  have  carried  on  the  work  rapidly,  yet  it 
would  have  been  positively  imprudent  to  have  gone  on 
without  a  guide.  How  this  skeleton  came  where  we  found 
it,  I  suppose  will  always  remain  a  mystery.  Some  wild 
beast  may  have  dragged  it  in  there,  a  murder  may  have 
been  committed  and  the  body  thus  concealed,  or  some 
person  may  have  attempted  to  explore  these  caverns  and 
been  lost. 

Dra'a  ought  to  be  a  rich  field  for  excavations,  because  at 
least  three  cities  exist  there,  one  beneath  another.  The 
present  Arab  buildings  and  heaps  of  filth  are,  for  the  most 
part,  on  the  top  of  a  Greek  or  Roman  city,  as  is  evident 
from  the  walls  which  are  exposed  in  a  multitude  of  places, 
and  the  masons'  marks  which  appear  on  them.  Judging 
from  facts  brought  to  light  at  certain  points  where  excava- 
tions have  been  made,  the  second  or  Roman  town  was  built 
on  the  remains  of  one  still  older,  in  which  bevelled  stones 
were  used.  But  whether  there  are  two  or  three  cities  above- 
ground,  there  is  certainly  a  large  one  beneath  them,  en- 
tirely excavated  in  the  rock  on  which  the  upper  cities  stand. 

I  will  translate  from  Dr.  J.  Gr.  Wetzstein's  ^'  Reisebericht 
liber  Hauran  und  die  Trachonen"  (Berlin,  1860,  pp.  47, 
48),  his  interesting  account  of  his  visit  to  the  extensive 
underground  dwellings  which  exist  here.  He  is  describing 
the  four  different  kinds  of  ancient  dwellings  that  are  found 
in  the  Hauran,  the  first  or  oldest  of  which  are  those  of  the 
troglodytes,  the  second  are  such  as  are  found  at  Dra'a.  "  I 
visited,"  he  says,  "  old  Edrei,  the  subterranean  labyrinthine 
residence  of  King  Og,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Zumle  hiUs. 
Two  sons  of  the  sheikh  of  the  village,  one  fourteen  and  the 


AN   UNDEBGBOUND   CITY.  351 

other  sixteen  years  of  age,  accompanied  me ;  we  took  with 
us  a  box  of  matches  and  two  candles.  After  we  had  gone 
down  the  slope  for  some  distance,  we  came  to  a  dozen 
rooms,  which  at  present  are  used  as  goat-staUs  and  store- 
rooms for  straw ;  the  passage  became  gradually  smaller, 
until  at  last  we  were  compelled  to  lie  down  flat  and  creep 
along.  This  extremely  difficult  and  uncomfortable  process 
lasted  for  about  eight  minutes,  when  we  were  obliged  to 
jump  down  a  steep  wall  of  several  feet  in  height.  Here  I 
noticed  that  the  younger  of  my  two  attendants  had  remained 
behind,  being  afraid  to  follow  us ;  but  probably  it  was  more 
from  fear  of  the  unknown  European  than  of  the  dark  and 
winding  passages  before  us.  We  now  found  ourselves  in  a 
broad  street  which  had  dwellings  on  both  sides  of  it,  whose 
height  and  width  left  nothing  to  be  desired.  The  tempera- 
ture was  mild,  the  air  free  from  unpleasant  odors,  and  I  felt 
not  the  sHghtest  difficulty  in  breathing.  Farther  along 
there  were  several  cross-streets,  and  my  guide  called  my 
attention  to  a  rosen  (a  window  or  hole  in  the  ceiling  for  air), 
which,  like  three  others  that  I  saw  afterwards,  was  closed 
up  from  above.  Soon  after  we  came  to  a  market-place, 
where,  for  a  long  distance  on  both  sides  of  a  pretty  broad 
street,  there  were  numerous  shops  in  the  walls,  exactly  in 
the  style  of  the  duMan  (L  e.,  shops)  that  are  seen  in  the 
Syrian  cities.  After  a  while  we  turned  into  a  side  street, 
where  a  great  hall,  whose  roof  was  supported  by  four  pil- 
lars, attracted  my  attention.  The  roof  or  ceiling  was 
formed  of  a  single  slab  of  jasper,  perfectly  smooth  and  of 
immense  size,  in  which  I  could  not  perceive  the  slightest 
crack ;  the  rooms,  for  the  most  part,  had  no  supports ;  the 
doors  were  often  made  of  a  single  square  stone,  and  here 
and  there  I  noticed  also  fallen  columns. 

"After  we  had  passed  several  more  cross  alleys  or  streets, 
and  before  we  had  reached  the  middle  of  this  subterranean 


352  EAST   OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

city,  my  attendant's  light  went  out.  As  he  was  lighting  it 
again  by  mine,  it  occurred  to  me  that  possibly  both  oiu* 
lights  might  be  put  out,  and  I  asked  the  boy  if  he  had  the 
matches.  '  No,'  he  replied ;  '■  my  brother  has  them.'  '  Could 
you  find  your  way  back  if  both  our  lights  should  be  put 
out  ? '  '  Impossible  ! '  he  replied.  For  a  moment  I  began  to 
feel  alarmed  in  this  under-world,  and  urged  an  immediate 
return.  Without  much  difficulty  we  got  back  to  the  mar- 
ket-place, and  from  there  the  youngster  knew  the  way  well 
enough.  Thus,  after  a  sojourn  of  more  than  one  hour  and 
a  half  in  this  labyrinth,  I  greeted  again  the  light  of  day." 

He  says,  subsequently,  that  when,  some  days  later,  he 
was  leaving  Dra'a,  a  door  on  the  slope  of  Wady  Zeidi  was 
pointed  out  to  him  as  the  proper  entrance  to  those  apart- 
ments ;  and  he  remarks  that  travellers  might  make  use  of 
this,  and  thus  not  be  obliged  to  crawl  through  the  long, 
dirty  passage  by  which  he  entered.  Another  interesting 
statement  which  he  makes  is  as  follows :  "  The  present 
city,  which,  judging  from  its  walls,  must  have  been  one  of 
great  extent,  and  which  has  now  quite  a  large  population, 
lies  for  the  most  part  directly  over  the  old  subterranean 
city,  and  I  believe  that  now,  in  case  of  a  devastating  war, 
the  inhabitants  would  retire  to  the  latter  for  safety."  I 
will  mention  here,  as  an  historical  fact,  that  when  King 
Baldwin  III.  (1144-1162)  and  his  crusaders  made  their  wild 
chase  to  Bozrah,  they  went  by  way  of  Dra'a.  The  weather 
was  hot,  and  the  army  was  suffering  terribly  for  want  of 
water;  but  as  often  as  they  let  down  their  buckets,  by 
means  of  ropes,  into  the  cisterns  here,  men  concealed  on 
the  inside  of  the  cisterns  would  cut  the  ropes,  and  thus 
defeat  their  efforts.  Probably  the  underground  city  has 
connection  with  all  the  important  cisterns  of  the  place. 

I  collected  here  quite  a  number  of  Greek  inscriptions. 
Some  workmen  were  digging  in  a  portion  of  the  town  near 


AN   UNDEBGBOUND   CITY.  353 

oui'  camp,  and  at  a  depth  of  twenty  feet  below  tlie  surface 
of  the  ground  were  the  remains  of  a  building  in  ruins,  and 
on  some  of  the  stones  were  inscriptions,  which  I  copied. 

At  Bish'ra  we  encountered  a  violent  storm,  and  the 
sheikh  invited  us  into  his  house,  where  we  enjoyed  his  fii"e 
and  coffee.  On  our  part,  we  shared  with  liim  the  lunch 
which  we  had  with  us.  A  fire  was  made  in  the  middle 
of  the  room  assigned  to  us,  and  as  there  was  but  one 
small  hole  near  the  top  for  the  smoke  to  escape,  it  soon 
became  almost  intolerable.  The  fuel  in  this  case  consisted 
of  dung  and  some  sticks.  Our  animals  were  comfortably 
housed  in  an  adjoining  building,  but  our  dogs  were  uneasy, 
and  it  was  with  difficiTlty  that  we  kept  them  with  us  in 
our  smoky  quarters.  As  the  storm  was  cold  as  well  as 
violent,  it  was  less  of  a  hardship  to  suffer  from  the  smoke 
than  it  would  have  been  to  become  drenched.  Bish'ra  is  a 
small  village  on  a  hill,  with  no  special  signs  of  antiquity, 
unless  they  are  below  the  surface.  When  I  first  heard  of 
the  place,  it  was  represented  to  me  that  it  possessed  im- 
portant ruins.  The  country  about  it  is  rich,  and  the 
formation  limestone. 

Many  square  miles  of  the  region  west  of  Dra'a  are 
ploughed.  Some  of  the  land,  we  were  informed,  would  be 
left  till  next  year,  while  the  rest  would  be  sown  with  maize, 
or  dhura.  Huwara  is  situated  in  a  great  plain,  which  is 
finely  cultivated. 

There  are  at  El  Husn  seventy  families  of  Christians 
belonging  to  the  orthodox  Greek  Church,  and  some  of  the 
men  whom  we  met  were  very  intelligent.  Among  these 
was  a  schoolmaster,  who  gave  us  a  great  deal  of  informa- 
tion about  the  country  and  people  east  of  the  Jordan, 
particularly  about  the  schools  in  Kerak  and  Es  Salt.  He 
said  that  many  people  were  now  moving  into  the  Hauran 
to  occupy  the  ruined  towns  which  lay  south  and  south-east 


354  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

of  Dra'a,  towards  Um  el  Jemal.  He  thought  if  they  could 
be  protected  they  would  soon  make  that  a  very  flourishing 
region.  Besides  the  schoolmaster^  the  Greek  priest,  the 
sheikh  of  the  village,  and  also  a  Christian  from  Nazareth, 
gave  us  many  details  about  the  inhabited  villages,  the 
ruined  towns,  and  the  roads  in  the  region  to  the  west  and 
south  in  Jebel  'Ajlun.  We  could  not  learn  of  such  a  place 
or  ruin  as  Mahneh  near  El  Husn,  although  it  has  been 
given  on  the  best  maps  as  being  in  this  vicinity. 

From  this  place  (El  Husn)  our  guide,  and  companion 
also, — for  he  proved  a  very  intelligent  and  agreeable  per- 
son,—  was  a  friend  of  Mr.  Zeller,  of  Nazareth.  He  seemed 
pleased  to  meet  us  here,  and  put  himseK  to  much  trouble 
to  aid  us  in  our  work.  In  his  features  he  resembled 
the  Arabs  of  the  Jordan  valley,  who  are  of  an  altogether 
different  type  from  the  people  of  the  Gilead  hills  or  the 
Bedawin  of  the  desert.  Before  we  left  the  place  I  exam- 
ined the  tell  or  hill  near  the  town,  on  which  are  exten- 
sive ruins  Those  on  the  surface  are  largely  of  Arab 
origin,  but  about  the  brow  of  the  hill  is  a  wall  constructed 
of  older  materials,  and  the  stones  in  some  portions  of  it 
antedate  the  Roman  occupation  of  the  country.  People 
assured  me  that  whenever  they  dig  on  this  mound  they  find 
great  stones  and  pottery,  and  other  ancient  remains.  The 
summit  of  this  hill  is  flat,  and  is  extensive  enough  for  a 
town  of  considerable  size.  Not  only  in  modern  times  has 
there  been  a  castle  here,  but  there  is  evidence  to  show  that 
this  is  the  site  of  some  ancient  fortress  of  which  the  name 
is  now  lost.  The  name,  El  Husn,  means  a  castle,  but  this 
name  is  at  present  applied  to  the  village.  It  belongs,  how- 
ever, to  the  mound,  and  in  recent  times  has  strayed  to  the 
village,  which  is  only  a  short  distance  from  the  hill  itself. 

At  El  Husn  we  had  one  very  rough  night.  Our  tents, 
in  spite  of  the  extra  care  we  took,  and  the  stones  we  had 


AN   UNDEBGBOUND   CITY. 


obij 


piled  upon  the  ropes,  Avould  not  stand  the  storm,  and  went 
over.  One,  however,  did  not  fall  entirely,  and  under  one 
side  of  that  we  were  able  to  collect  some  of  oui-  property, 
and,  in  the  few  square  yards  of  space  that  remained,  we 
huddled  together  and  endured  the  night,  cold,  wet,  and 
shivering.  Our  servant  remained  with  us,  while  all  our 
men  and  animals  went  to  the  town,  where  they  were  very 
comfortable.  The  next  morning  the  sun  rose  bright  and 
clear,  and  we  were  thankful  enough  for  its  warmth. 


°*V 


"^'X 


X 


''"^V  I    Atiareh/>    r 

Vis        -i'       *s         ^^  f  - 


Ktilaif  er  Rubad  H 


Plan  of   Mahneh. 


Itinerary:  From  El  Husn  in  one  hour  and  fifteen 
minutes  we  passed  Sumad,  a  village  some  distance  to  our 
right.  Far  to  our  left  was  a  prominent  hill  caUed  Tell  el 
Khanasari  (accent  on  na^  the  second  syllable).  There 
are  ruins  on  its  summit.  One  hour  and  twenty-five 
minutes  from  El  Husn  we  passed  a  ruin  on  our  left  called 
Ed  Deir.  A  ruined  village  directly  on  our  road,  which  had 
no  name,  one  hour  and  fifteen  minutes.  A  little  later,  two 
very  large  cisterns,  directly  in  the  road.  On  our  right 
the  village  Zubieh ;  thirty  minutes  later  a  ^^ILage  on  our 


356  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

left,  in  a  deep  wady,  called  Rasul.  In  thirty  minutes 
we  descended  into  Wady  'Arjan,  formerly  called  Akhdar. 
It  is  the  upper  portion  of  Wady  Yabis.  Here  is  a  fine 
fountain,  or  rather  several  fountains.  Crossing  the  valley 
and  winding  down  the  south  bank,  in  forty  minutes  we 
reached  the  village  of  'Arjan.  It  is  a  Moslem  village,  there 
being  only  one  Christian  family  in  the  place.  From  this 
point  we  can  see  Ed  Deir  Halawi  below  us,  perched  on  a 
summit  above  the  village  of  Halawi.  Passing  over  the  hill 
from  'Arjan,  we  come  in  a  few  minutes  to  Ba'aun,  in 
Wady  'Alak.  Passing  this,  we  enter  Wady  Mahneh,  and  in 
one  hour  from  'Arjan  we  reach  the  ruin  called  Mahneh. 
Kulat  er  Rubad  is  distant  from  Mahneh  one  hour  and 
fifty-five  minutes.  Perched  on  a  hill,  above  the  latter,  is 
Atiareh,  a  very  old  ruin,  requiring  ten  or  fifteen  minutes' 
climb  to  reach  it. 

'Ain  Jenneh  is  one  horn*  and  ten  minutes  fi-om  Mahneh. 
I  have  made  the  distance  in  one  hour.  From  Kulat  er 
Rubad  to  'Ain  Jenneh  is  fifty-five  minutes.  The  \allage 
of  'Ajlun  is  between  these  two  places.  This  outline  does 
not  indicate  the  direct  route  from  El  Husn  to  'Ain  Jenneh, 
but  a  good  one,  if  a  person  wishes  to  visit  Mahneh  or  the 
upper  portion  of  Wady  Yabis.  The  valley  near  'Arjan, 
and  the  hills  about  it,  were  covered  with  a  fine  growth 
of  old  olive-trees. 

This  portion  of  the  Gilead  Mountains  is  particularly 
diversified  and  beautiful.  Uplands  and  gentle  slopes, 
large  forests  with  paths  winding  through  them,  green 
fields  of  grass  and  wheat,  sheltered  and  sunny  valleys, 
and  stOl  other  romantic  features  exist  here,  which  are 
not  found  in  other  portions  of  the  country.  Formerly  I 
was  in  doubt  about  the  Roman  road  leading  from  PeUa 
up  over  the  hills  to  Gerash,  to  which  Eusebius  refers ; 
but,  after  having  been  over  the  entire  region  in  a  dozen 


AN   UNDERGROUND   CITY.  357 

different  directions,  I  am  now  confident  of  having-  traced  it 
from  Pella  past  Miryamin,  Kefr  Abil,  Maklub,  and  up  Wady 
Mahneh  to  'Ain  Jenneh.  Besides  the  remains  of  the  road, 
the  route  is  a  natural  and  feasible  one,  if  any  further 
evidence  were  needed.  Wady  Mahneh  is  a  romantic  valley. 
As  the  region  has  not  been  denuded  of  forests,  great 
trees  have  fallen  across  it  in  some  places;  in  others,  the 
branches  of  the  trees  that  stand  on  either  side  touch, 
and  form  beautiful  arches  above  the  path. 

From  Atiareh  one  cannot  see  far  to  the  east,  and  in 
the  west  the  Beisan  plain  is  visible,  but  not  the  Jordan 
valley  itself.  Angles  were  taken  here  to  Beisan,  Tabor, 
and  many  other  points.  Mahneh,  it  may  be  added,  is 
easily  approachable  from  the  east. 

At  El  Husn,  as  well  as  elsewhere,  we  came  into  contact 
with  government  tax-collectors.  The  people  suffer  from 
them ;  but  I  suppose  the  officers  themselves  have  no 
choice.  They  may  be  rough  men,  but  are,  no  doubt, 
commanded  to  do  as  they  do.  They  correspond,  in  some 
respects,  to  our  tramps,  inasmuch  as  they  come  to  pri- 
vate houses  in  a  village  and  demand  food  and  drink, —  not 
second-class  fare,  either, — and  food  for  their  horses.  They 
also  demand  money.  They  are  all  armed,  and  the  poor 
people  do  not  dare  refuse  them  entertainment.  They  do 
refuse  sometimes  to  pay  the  tax,  until  the  burden  of  the 
despised  official,  who  is  eating  up  their  substance,  becomes 
intolerable,  and  at  last  they  yield,  and  pay  what  is 
demanded,  if  they  are  able  y  if  not,  they  borrow  the 
necessary  sum,  if  they  can ;  that  failing,  their  goods 
are  sold,  and  much  suffering  ensues. 

But,  besides  tax-coUectors,  the  people  at  El  Husn  had 
an  extra  annoyance  in  the  shape  of  a  company  of  men, 
consisting  of  two  or  three  officers  and  about  thirty  soldiers, 
all  mounted,  who  had  been  to  Suf  to  quell  a  revolt  that 


358  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

had  broken  out  there  on  account  of  the  burdensome  taxes. 
Jebel  'Ajlun  is  a  comparatively  wealthy  district,  and,  during 
the  present  war,  its  inhabitants  have  been  bled  unmerci- 
fully. The  arrears  of  taxes  had  aU  been  paid,  also  certain 
taxes  in  advance,  and  a  new  demand  was  made  in  the 
shape  of  a  war  contribution,  or  "  patriotic  loan,"  as  the 
matter  was  known  in  Europe.  The  process  of  raising  the 
patriotic  loan  was  for  mounted  and  armed  men  to  go 
about  to  the  different  towns  and  callages  and  say : 
"  Give  us  five  hundred  pounds  [more  or  less,  as  the  case 
might  be]  or  go  to  jail."  The  spirited  sheikh  of  Siif, 
backed  by  his  people  of  the  same  hot  blood,  tried  to  get 
rid  of  the  burden  by  resistance,  but  he  saw  that  it  was 
useless  to  fight  the  company  of  soldiers  that  had  been 
sent  against  him,  and  at  last  paid  the  official  demand. 
The  government  never  asks  whether  it  is  easy  or  difficult 
for  the  people  to  pay  the  tax.  It  needs  money,  and 
exacts  it.  If  great  hardship  is  thereby  entailed  upon 
the  people,  the  government  does  not  care,  and  those  who 
suffer  must  recover  from  their  complete  or  partial  ruin 
as  best  they  can.  A  civilized  man  cannot  help  blushing 
whenever  he  applies  the  word  government  to  the  barbar- 
ous system  of  robbery  and  oppression  under  which  the 
people  of  the  Turkish  empii-e  drag  out  a  miserable 
existence  in  poverty  and  wretchedness. 

Last  night  was  cold,  and  this  morning  the  thermometer 
was  38°  at  8.30  A.  M.  and  51°  at  8  P.  M.  Ice  formed  in 
some  places  in  the  village,  and  also  at  some  points 
between  here  and  Gerash. 

Note. — In  his  "Land  of  Gilead,"  1880,  Mr.  Lawrence  Oliphant  has 
made  extensive  use  of  my  reports  and  letters  without,  in  many  cases, 
giving  proper  credit.  To  mention  a  single  instance,  my  account  of 
Dra'a  has  been  almost  entirely  borrowed  by  him,  without  acknowledg- 
ment. As  to  the  illustrations  in  his  volume,  the  only  good  one,  the 
frontispiece,  was  taken  from  a  photogi'aph  by  the  American  Society, 
for  which  no  acknowledgment  is  made. 


CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

The  Watch-Tower  of  Gilead. 

Kulat  er  Rubad.  View  from  its  walls — the  Jordan  valley,  the  Sea 
of  Galilee,  and  the  Dead  Sea.  Historical  events  and  famous  men. 
The  site  of  Ramath  Mizpeh.  Chorus  of  jackals.  Difficulties  con- 
nected with  exploration  work.  Escape  without  serious  injury. 
Unpleasant  rumors.  Men  not  willing  to  risk  their  lives.  Com- 
promise.    Money  makes  men  brave. 

Camp  at  'Ain  Jenneh,   Sunday,   March   18,  1877. 

THIS  afternoon  I  have  been  with  Khatib — an  intel- 
ligent man  belonging  in  'Ain  Jenneh — to  Kulat 
er  Rubad,  to  correct  my  notes  of  points  that  could  be 
seen  from  the  castle,  and  to  enjoy  the  wonderful  pros- 
pect. I  remained  there  untU  after  sunset,  and  we  were 
so  late  in  returning  to  camp  that  my  companions  were 
on  the  point  of  sending  out  messengers  for  me. 

This  ancient  castle  is  situated  on  one  of  the  most  promi- 
nent peaks  of  the  mountain  range  east  of  the  Jordan.  This 
must  always  have  been  a  landmark  in  Gilead  from  the 
earliest  times.  Many  other  points  in  this  same  range  are 
visible,  both  to  the  north  and  to  the  south,  and  the  wall  of 
mountain  on  the  west  of  the  Jordan  can  be  seen  from  end 
to  end.     Not  only  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  but 


360  EAST  OF  THE  JOBBAN. 

the  entire  valley  between  tliem  appears  to  lie  at  our  feet. 
The  view  is  more  than  a  picture.  It  is  a  panorama  of 
great  varietj',  beauty,  and  magnificence.  This  valley  is 
without  a  parallel  on  the  surface  of  the  globe,  and 
its  sacred  river  unique  among  all  the  watercourses  of 
the  earth.  The  distance  from  sea  to  sea  is  about  seventy 
miles,  but  the  river,  in  flowing  through  the  plain,  makes  a 
distance,  according  to  Lieutenant  Lynch,  of  two  hundred 
miles.  Its  course  is  traced  by  a  "  line  of  luxmiant 
verdui'e"  (Stanley,  p.  280),  through  which  here  and  there 
the  water  itself  appears,  like  sheets  of  glistening  silver  in  a 
field  of  green.  At  intervals,  watercourses  are  seen  which 
wind  across  the  plain,  and  their  banks  are  dark  with  the 
tropical  trees  and  shrubs  that  floiu-ish  in  this  hotbed  of 
nature.  Where  the  supply  of  water  is  sufficient,  oases  exist 
throughout  the  year,  upon  whose  fresh  beauty  we  can  almost 
suppose  the  parched  and  barren  hills  of  Judea  to  look  down 
with  envy.  One  of  these  oases  is  the  beautiful  Succoth  re- 
gion, where  Jacob  tarried  after  his  return  from  Padan  Aram. 
Another  is  the  great  Shittim  plain,  where  the  law  was 
repeated  by  Moses  before  the  tribes  entered  the  promised 
land,  and  another  still  is  the  garden  of  Jericho,  near  which 
the  hosts  of  Israel  first  pitched  then*  tents  on  the  west  of 
the  Jordan.  As  these  watercourses  and  the  fertile  sections 
of  the  plain  about  them  are  the  same  now  that  they  were  in 
antiquity,  they  enable  us  to  locate,  beyond  dispute,  the 
scene  of  a  number  of  interesting  historical  events. 

The  bed  of  the  Jordan  is  sunk  to  such  a  depth  that  no 
portion  of  the  vaUey  through  which  it  flows  is  reached  by  its 
life-giving  waters,  yet  along  the  line  of  the  river  itself  vege- 
tation flourishes  with  unusual  vigor.  A  ^^Titer  in  Smith's 
"  Bible  Dictionarv^,"  E.  S.  Ffoulkes,  refers  ^\\t\\  generous 
pride  to  the  fact  "that  a  nation  from  the  extreme  west, 
from  a  country  utterly  unknown  to  the  Old  or  New  Testa- 


THE   WATCH-TOWEB   OF   GILEAD.  361 

ment,  should  have  been  the  first  to  accompHsh  the  naviga- 
tion of    that     sacred   river,  which   has  been    before   the 
workl   so   prominently    for  nearly  four  thousand  years" 
(American  edition,  ii.,  p.  1462,  column  2).    He  is  referring  to 
Lieutenant   Lynch,  of  the  American  Navy,  who,  in  1848, 
succeeded  in  passing  down  the  Jordan  in  boats  from  the 
Lake   of    Tiberias    to  the   Dead    Sea,   and  in    making  a 
thorough  and  scientific  exploration  of  both  the  river  and  the 
Dead  Sea  itself.     The  honor  of  priority  in  this  y^ork  would 
not,  however,   have  belonged  to  Lieutenant  Lynch  or  to 
America,  had  it  not  been  for  the  unexpected  misfortunes 
and   disasters   which   overtook  the    party    of    the  heroic 
English  Lieutenant  Molyneaux,  in  the  preceding  year,  1847. 
His  party,  after  enduring  gi'eat  hardships,  was  robbed  and 
broken  up,  and  Molyneaux  himself  died  soon  after,  from 
the  effects  of  his  exposure  in  the  fearful  regions  of  the 
Lower  Jordan  and  the  Sea  of  Death.     From  where  we  are 
sitting  we  see  far  in  the  south,  ending  the  great  valley  and 
touching  the  mountains  on  either  side,  lying  bright  and 
motionless  as  molten  lead,  that  sea  which,  in  ancient  times, 
was   enshrouded   in   mystery,    but   which   by   modern  re- 
search has  been  measured,  sounded,  analyzed,  and  under- 
stood.    This  river  and  valley,  and  especially  the  mysterious 
Lake  of   Sodom,  which  swallowed  iip  all  and  gave  forth 
nothing,  unless  by  some  subterranean  passage,  were  a  per- 
petual surprise  to  the  few  Greek  and  Roman  writers  who 
have  spoken  of  them.     In  addition  to  Josephus, —  Tacitus, 
Pliny,  Strabo,  and  particularly  Pausanias,  were  astonished 
that  a  river  Hke  the  Jordan  should  disappear  in  a  sea  that 
had  no  outlet.     Far  in  the  north  is  the  Sea  of  G-alilee,  of 
which  the  Jewish  historian  speaks  as  "  sweet  and  fuH  of 
life"  ( "Wars,"  iv.,  8,  2).     The  hiUs  about  it  are  quiet  and 
clothed  with  verdure,  and  their  appearance  is  lovely  and 
in^dting  compared  with  the  wild,  desolate,  and  savage  aspect 
16 


362  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

of  those  that  rise  about  the  Dead  Sea  in  the  south.  If  from 
this  strange  valley  we  lift  our  eyes  to  the  western  moun- 
tains, we  see  Carmel  in  the  distance,  stretching  out  its 
length  towards  the  Mediterranean ;  while  farther  south  are 
the  hills  of  Ei)hraim,  and  in  the  north  those  of  Naphtali, 
Ebal  and  Gerizim,  Gilboa  and  Nazareth,  Tabor  and 
Hermon. 

To  the  Hebrews,  whose  fathers  had  died  in  the  wilder- 
ness, and  who  had  come  up  across  the  great  plains  of 
Edom  and  Moab  to  "the  mountains  of  Abarim  before 
Nebo"  (Numb,  xxxiii.,  47),  what  must  have  been  their 
surprise  when  they  stood  on  "  the  top  of  the  hill  that  look- 
eth  toward  Jeshimon  "  (Numb,  xxi.,  20)  and  saw  this  vast 
plain  sunk  down  between  the  mountains,  seamed  with 
watercourses  and  dotted  with  oases,  ending  with  the  Dead 
Sea  in  the  south,  and  stretching  far  ap  among  the  hills  to 
the  north?  To  such  desert  pilgrims,  these  streams  must 
have  been  inviting,  these  oases  must  have  given  promise  of 
rest.  The  parched,  barren,  poorly  watered  plains  of  the 
wilderness  they  were  to  exchange  now  for  "  green  past- 
ures "  and  quiet  waters  (Ps.  xxiii.,  2).  For  eight  centuries 
previous  to  their  arrival,  the  Canaanites  had  occupied  this 
valley,  and  Sodom,  Gomorrah,  Admah,  Zeboim  (Gen.  x., 
19),  and  Jericho  were  some  of  their  principal  cities.  But 
none  of  the  historical  events  which  have  since  made  this 
valley  famous  had  then  been  enacted,  and  some  of  these 
we  may  pass  rapidly  in  review  while  we  hnger  on  the 
ruined  walls  of  this  ancient  castle.  The  scene  of  most  of 
these  events  can  be  pointed  out  from  this  watch-tower  of 
Gilead. 

Yonder,  Naaman,  the  Syrian,  washed  at  the  direction  of 
the  prophet  Elisha,  and  was  healed  of  his  leprosy,  although 
at  first  he  looked  upon  the  Jordan  with  contempt  in  com- 
parison with  the  rivers  of  Damascus  (II.  Kings  v.,  12).     At 


THE    WATCH-TOWER   OF  GILEAD.  363 

some  point  aloug  that  river  is  the  scene  of  the  baptism  of 
our  Lord,  at  Bethabara,  a  name  which,  if  it  corresponds  to 
the  present  ford  'Abara,  has,  it  is  claimed,  been  brought 
to  light  by  the  researches  of  the  English  party  ("Quar- 
terly Statement,"  April,  1875,  p.  72). 

Far  in  the  south  is  the  site  of  Livias,  where  Herod  Anti- 
pas  was  probably  holding  his  feast  when  John  the  Baptist 
was  beheaded.  Near  this  place  were  the  famous  acacia- 
groves  of  Joshua's  time,  where  the  children  of  Israel  first 
pitched  their  tents  after  descending  from  the  mountains  of 
Moab.  Here,  also,  was  Abila  of  Josephus's  day,  and  he 
describes  the  spot  as  embowered  in  palms  ("  Antiquities," 
iv.,  8,  1 ;  v.,  1,  1).  Between  that  point  and  Jericho  is  the 
place  where  the  Jordan  divided  its  waters  until  the  ban- 
nered host  had  crossed  in  safety.  Yonder  is  Jericho  itself, 
with  its  gardens  and  green  fields,  a  place  whose  history 
is  as  checkered  and  thrilling  as  any  romance ;  the  scene  of 
Joshua's  victory,  of  Herod's  death,  of  Christ's  mercy  to  the 
blind  man,  and  of  his  forgiveness  to  the  penitent  publican. 
Here  was  a  famous  school  of  the  prophets,  at  which  Elijah 
and  Elisha  stopped  a  few  moments  while  on  their  way  from 
Bethel  to  the  Jordan.  That  same  day  the  Jordan  was 
divided  when  smitten  by  Elijah,  and,  at  some  point  within 
sight  on  the  eastern  bank,  the  horses  and  chariot  of  fire 
appeared,  and  Elijah,  as  if  that  the  manner  of  his  death 
might  be  in  keeping  with  that  of  his  life,  went  up  into 
heaven  by  the  wild  path  of  the  whirlwind  (II.  ICings  ii.,  11). 

Yonder,  near  Beisan,  Gideon  crossed  in  swift  pursuit  of 
the  Midianite  host,  under  Zebah  and  Zalmunnah  (Judges 
viii.,  4,  10).  Down  the  valley  near  us  is  Succoth,  whose 
princes  refused  to  give  Gideon  assistance  on  that  memo- 
rable occasion,  and  who  suffered  in  consequence  a  terrible 
punishment.  At  that  point  this  hero  turned  to  the  left 
into  the  mountains,  following  the  line  of  the  Jabbok,  along 


364  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

"  the  way  of  them  that  dwelt  in  tents"  (Judges  viii.,  11),  in 
his  pursuit  of  the  retreating  invaders  fi*om  the  desert.  Far 
out  towards  the  Mediterranean,  whose  blue  waters  can  he 
discerned  in  the  distance,  lies  the  great  Esdraelon  plain,  a 
battle-field  of  the  ages,  and  along  which  time  and  again 
the  swarms  from  the  eastern  deserts  spread  themselves 
"  like  grasshoppers  for  multitude,"  to  plague  and  plunder 
Israel  (Judges  vi.,  5).  At  one  of  those  fords  before  us, 
forty-two  thousand  Ephraimites  were  slain  on  that  fatal 
da}''  when,  they  were  put  to  the  test  whether  they  could  say 
"  sliibboleth,"  or  only  "sibboleth," — a  simple  test,  but  one 
by  which  it  was  proved  whether  or  not  they  belonged  to 
the  hostile  party  (Judges  xii.,  6).  Across  that  river  Jacob 
went  with  only  his  staff,  a  poor  man,  to  return,  after  a 
time,  possessed  of  great  wealth.  By  one  of  those  fords 
near  Jericho,  David  once  crossed,  a  fugitive  from  his  own 
capital  and  kingdom.  By  that  ford  Absalom  and  his  army 
crossed  in  hot  pursuit,  the  rebellious  son  rushing  on  to  his 
own  defeat  and  death.  There,  also,  David,  accompanied 
by  that  charming  old  man,  Barzillai,  recrossed  the  stream, 
to  receive,  on  the  opposite  bank,  the  ovation  prepared  for 
him  by  all  Judah,  as  a  welcome  on  his  retirrn  to  the  king- 
dom (II.  Sam,  xix.).  There,  likewise,  the  great  Joab  crossed, 
when  he  led  the  army  of  David  against  the  childi-en  of 
Ammon  (II,  Sam,  xi.).  Yonder,  the  brave  Judas  Macca- 
beus crossed  when  he  went  to  deliver  his  brethren  in 
Gilead,  and  recrossed  with  his  \dctorious  army,  on  their 
way  to  Jerusalem,  "  singing  psalms  and  hymns  as  they 
went "  ( Josephus,  "  Antiquities,"  xii.,  8,  5 ;  I.  Mace,  v,). 
Yonder  at  Jericho,  sixty-three  years  before  Chi'ist,  Pompey, 
with  his  army,  was  encamped,  preparing  to  go  up  to  the 
siege  of  Jerusalem ;  and  there,  also,  sixty-eight  years  after 
the  birth  of  Christ,  Vespasian  was  resting  with  his  legions, 
which,  after  many  hard-fought  battles,  had  at  length  sue- 


THE    WATCH-TOWER   OF  GILEAD.  365 

eeeded  in  reducing  to  ruius  the  cities  aud  fortresses  of 
Galilee.  There,  in  the  time  of  Christ,  was  the  splendid 
theatre  and  palace  which  Herod  the  Great  had  built,  and 
there,  also,  was  the  scene  of  that  tyrant's  death.  The  first 
Christian  emperor,  Constantino,  regretted  on  his  death-bed 
in  Nicomedia,  that  his  long-delayed  baptism  coidd  not  take 
place  in  the  sacred  river  before  us.  On  that  plain,  not  far 
from  Succoth,  King  Solomon  had  his  brass  foundries, 
where  the  furniture  for  the  temple  was  cast.  At  that 
white  ivehj  or  toml)  near  Succoth,  lies  buried  the  famous 
General  Abii  Obeideh,  who  died  in  A.  D.  639,  a  victim  of 
the  plague  which  swept  away  no  less  than  twenty-five 
thousand  Moslem  soldiers. 

Thus,  as  we  look  down  from  Kulat  er  Rubad  upon  this 
river  and  valley,  the  Sea  and  the  Lake,  our  eyes  rest  upon 
the  scene  of  a  multitude  of  famous  historical  events  in 
which  many  of  the  great  men  of  antiquity  bore  a  part: 
Chedorlaomer,  Abraham  and  Lot,  Joshua,  Jacob,  David 
and  Solomon,  Gideon  and  Jephthah,  Absalom,  Joab,  and 
Judas  Maccabeus,  Pompey,  Vespasian,  and  Herod  the 
Great,  John  the  Baptist,  and  Christ,  the  Redeemer  of  the 
world. 

The  following  suggestions  are  here  offered  as  to  the 
identification  of  this  important  point  with  Ramath 
Mizpeh,  a  city  on  the  northern  border  of  the  territory 
of  Gad: 

The  inheritance  of  the  tribe  of  Gad  is  fully  described  in 
Josh,  xiii.,  24-  28.  Verses  25  -  27  are  as  follows :  "  Their 
coast  was  Jazer  and  all  the  cities  of  Gilead,  and  half  the 
land  of  the  children  of  Ammon,  unto  Aroer  that  is  before 
Rabbah ;  and  from  Heshbon  unto  Ramath-mizpeh,  and 
Betonim ;  and  from  Mahanaim  unto  the  border  of  Debir ; 
and  in  the  valley,  Beth-aram  [Heb.   Haram],  and  Beth- 


366  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

nimrah,  and  Suecoth,  and  Zaphon,  the  rest  of  the  kingdom 
of  Sihon  king  of  Heshbon,  Jordan  and  his  border,  even 
nnto  the  edge  of  the  Sea  of  Chinnereth  on  the  other  side 
Jordan  eastward." 

If  the  language  of  the  twenty-sixth  verse  is  to  be  under- 
stood literally,  we  suppose  it  refers  to  the  extent  of  GadJs 
territory  from  south  to  north  and  from  east  to  west : 
'•''from  HesJibon  [on  the  south]  unto  Ramath-mizpeh 
and  Betonim  [on  the  north],  and  from  Malianaim  [on  the 
west]  unto  the  border  of  Bebir''^  [on  the  east].  It  is  proba- 
ble that  the  place  here  called  Ramath-mizpeh  bears  other 
designations.  The  fuU  name  in  Hebrew  is  Ramath  ham- 
mizpeh,  nssKin  nwn.  It  has  been  thought  to  be  identical 
with  Ramoth  Gilead  (or  Ramoth  in  Gilead),  with  Mizpah  of 
the  history  of  Jacob  and  Laban  (Gen.  xxxi.,  49),  and  with 
Mizpeh  of  the  history  of  Jephthah,  which  is  mentioned 
five  times  in  Judges,  chapters  x.  and  xi.  In  Judges  xi., 
29,  it  is  defined  as  Mizpeh  of  Gilead.  There  appears  to 
have  been,  east  of  the  Jordan,  another  Mizpeh  in  Moab 
(I.  Sam.  xxii.,  3),  and  another  near  Hermon  (Josh,  xi., 
3,  8),  but  there  can  hardly  have  been  two  places  of 
that  name  in  Mount  Gilead.  Mizpeh,  Mizpeh  of  Gilead, 
Mizpah,  and  Ramath  (ham-)mizpeli  may  refer  to  the  same 
place.  This  may  be  true,  and  Ramoth  Gilead  refer  to 
another  place  entirely. 

Mizpeh  and  Mizpah  are  from  the  same  root,  nsis,  "  to 
view,"  or  ''  to  look  forth,"  and  signify  a  watch-tower  or  a 
summit  which  commands  a  wide  view  on  all  sides.  The 
only  place  in  Mount  Gilead  or  Jebel  'Ajlun  that  answers 
the  requirements  is  the  summit  crowned  by  the  fortress 
Kulat  er  Rubad.  We  have  already  described  the  remark- 
able view  to  the  west  from  this  point.  The  view  in  an 
easterly  direction  is  comparatively  limited ;  stUl  the  region 
is  suitable  for  extensive  military  operations.     North  of  the 


THE    WATCH-TOWER   OF  GILEAD.  3G7 

Aallage  of  'Ajlun  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  building 
which  must  have  been  of  great  strength.  The  stones  that 
remain  are  four  or  six  feet  thick,  and  eight  to  twelve  feet 
in  length.  The  oldest  inhabitants  testify  that  when  they 
were  boys  some  of  these  stones  were  broken  up  for  build- 
ing material.  The  only  name  the  ruin  bears  at  present  is 
"  Deir  Hanna."  For  several  huudi'ed  yards  the  stream 
flowing  through  'Ajlun  is  covered  by  a  fine  arch,  appar- 
ently of   Roman  work.     Ibn  Batuta   (A.   D.  1302-1378) 

went  from   Nablus  to  visit  'Ajlun,    j*)  Ju>^,  as  if  it  were 

a  place  of  importance.  He  went  thence  northward  '^by  way 
of  the  valley  between  two  mountains,  and  called  El  Ghor.'' 
Judging  from  the  extent  and  character  of  the  ruins, 
'Ajlun  must  have  been  an  important  place  in  very  early 
times.  The  same  is  true  of  Kulat  er  Rubad.  Were  it  not 
occupied  by  a  castle  it  would  stiU  be  the  most  command- 
ing summit  in  the  hills  east  .of  the  Jordan,  between  the 
Jabbok  and  the  Sea  of  Galilee. 

The  fertility  of  the  region,  the  abundance  of  water,  and 
the  commanding  view,  would  always  make  'Ajlun,  includ- 
ing the  district  about  it,  an  important  centre.  No  other 
ruins  similar  to 'these  exist  in  the  GHead  hills.  "We  refer, 
therefore,  the  four  names,  Mizpah,  Mizpeh,  Mizpeh  of 
Gilead,  and  Ramath  (ham-)mizpeh,  to  this  locality.  The 
suitableness  of  this  and  the  absence  of  any  other  suitable 
place  are  indications  of  the  correctness  of  this  suggestion. 

Furthermore,  in  my  judgment,  the  Bible  requires  as 
the  boundary  between  Gad  and  half-Manasseh  an  east 
and  west  line  running  through  Mount  Gilead,  dividing 
it  in  halves,  and  such  a  line  would  naturally  run  pas^, 
or,  perhaps,  a  little  to  the  north  of,  'Ajlun.  This  was 
the  rallying  point  of  the  Gileadites  when  pressed  by  the 
children  of  Ammon.      Here  ''  the  elders  of   Gilead "  met 


368  EAST  OF  THE  JOED  AN. 

to  consult  for  the  national  safety.     This  was  the  home  of 
Jephthah  (Judges  xi.). 

Starting  from  this  point,  Jephthah  went  north  and 
"passed  over  Grilead"  "and  Manasseh,"  and  then  returned 
and  "  passed  over  Mizpeh  of  Gilead,"  the  district  about 
his  own  home ;  from  this  point,  also,  he  started  to  go 
south  to  meet  the  children  of  Ammon  (Judges  xi.,  29). 
He  seems  to  have  attacked  the  enemy  in  their  own  home. 
He  smote  them  from  Aroer,  situated  between  Eabbah 
and  Jazer,  driving  them  in  a  south-easterly  direction, 
"  until  thou  come  to  Minnith "  (Judges  xi.,  33). 

In  the  struggle  between  the  Ephraimites  and  the  Gilead- 
ites,  which  occurred  in  Jephthah's  reign,  the  description 
of  the  route  pursued  by  the  Ephraimites  could  not  be 
more  accurate  than  it  is  as  found  in  Judges  xii.,  1. 
Starting  from  Shechem,  their  capital  and  rallying  point, 
they  would  go  down  by  the  only  natural  road  —  the 
present  "Wady  Fari'a — to  the  Jordan  valley,  cross  the  river 
at  the  present  Damieh  ford,  pass  on  to  Zaphon  at  the 
mouth  of  Wady  Rajib,  in  order  to  go  up  Wady  'Ajlun, 
the  only  feasible  route  to  Mizpeh,  the  capital  of  the 
Gileadites.  Jephthah,  however,  went  down  to  Zaphon, 
where  he  met  and  overcame  them  in  a  great  battle,  and 
slew  multitudes  of  them  as  they  attempted  to  flee  across 
the  Jordan,  whence  they  had  come  (Judges  xii.). 

The  north  boundary  of  Gad  is  defined  as  extending 
"  to  Ramath-mizpeh  and  Betonim "  (Distsa).  This  verse, 
Joshua  xiii.,  26,  reads,  in  the  Septuagint :  "  And  from 
Esebon  unto  Araboth  by  Massepha,  and  Botanim.''  K 
this  word  '^  Botanim "  refers  to  a  place,  it  must  have 
been  on  or  near  the  boundary  line,  and  been  of  equal 
importance  with  Ramath  (ham-)mizpeh ;  otherwise,  why- 
should  it  have  been  mentioned  ?  Gesenius  makes  the 
word  mean  pistachios.     If  the  word  refers  to  a  nut-bearing 


THE    WATCH-TOWEB   OF  GILEAD.  369 

district,  no  other  in  all  Grilead  would  so  fully  meet  the 
requirements  as  the  region  about  'Ain  Jenneh,  At  present 
that  place  possesses  large  groves  of  walnut-trees. 

The  place  Batneh,  or  Bataneh,  five  miles  south-west 
of  Es  Salt,*  is  not  to  be  thought  of  as  a  boimdary  of 
Gad.  The  Jerusalem  Talmud  knows  a  Botneh  (rsisn, 
"  Aboda  Sara,"  i.,  4),  where  was  a  celebrated  market. 
Eusebius  and  Jerome  wi'ite  of  Borvia,  Boreveiv^  Bothnin, 
as  existing  in  their  time. 

There  is  at  present  a  district  south-west  of  Dra'a  known 

as  El  Botein,  ^y]^\,  which  represents,  without  doubt,  the 

name  mentioned  by  Eusebius  and  Jerome  and  in  the 
Jerusalem  Talmud.  There  can  be  no  objection  to  con- 
sidering Betonim  as  referring  first  to  a  place  and  after- 
wards extending  to  a  district.  The  present  El  Botein  is  a 
little  too  far  north,  but  the  district  may  once  have  been 
larger,  and  the  modern  name  may  stOl  be  a  relic  of  the 
Bible  name. 

As  we  came  away  from  the  castle  towards  the  village 
of  'Ajlun,  we  were  greeted  by  a  chorus  of  jackals,  such 
as  I  have  seldom  experienced.  It  is  a  mystery  where  this 
multitude  of  wild  animals  get  enough  to  eat. 

My  constant  wonder  is  that  I  go  about  these  old  ruins, 
and  over  these  walls  and  rocky  roads,  without  breaking 
my  limbs.  I  run  risks  as  though  I  were  a  shepherd  living 
in  the  fields  and  at  home  among  these  ruins  and  rocks. 
In  passing  over  some  very  rough  places,  I  am  often 
anxious  about  the  lives  of  our  men  and  animals,  and 
about  our  property ;  but  thus  far  during  all  our  East 
Jordan  experience  we  have  been  providentially  preserved 
from  any  serious  injury.  The  work  of  exploration  is 
carried  on  in  these  regions  under  great  difficulties. 
16* 


370  .        EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

People  at  home  expect  important  results,  but  the  obsta- 
cles to  be  overcome  they  do  not  appreciate  and  cannot 
take  into  account. 

Since  coming  to  'Ain  Jenneh,  we  have  heard  many 
rumors  about  the  country  to  the  south  and  the  trouble 
among  the  Arab  tribes.  Such  reports,  however,  do  not 
frighten  us,  for  we  have  heard  similar  reports  many  times. 
Still,  we  have  good  evidence  that  at  present  there  is  an 
unusual  disturbance  in  those  regions,  and  to  exercise 
prudence  is  always  wise,  especially  when  dealing  with 
men  who  have  guns  in  their  hands.  Affairs  there  may 
be  bad  enough,  but  they  can  hardly  be  as  desperate  as 
represented. 

One  of  the  most  difficult  tasks  we  have  hitherto  un- 
dertaken to  accomplish  has  been  to  get  a  messenger 
from  this  region  to  go  to  Es  Salt.  The  distance  is 
two  days'  journey,  and  we  desired  a  messenger  to  carry 
a  letter  to  one  of  our  friends  in  that  place,  who  would 
communicate  with  some  of  the  Arabs  whose  services  we 
wished  to  obtain.  Wlien  Arabs  are  wanted,  they  have 
to  be  hunted  up.  But,  as  a  tribe  breaks  up  into  sec- 
tions which  are  located  at  different  points,  this,  in  one 
respect,  is  not  such  a  difficult  matter  as  one  might 
think.  Even  in  the  desert,  the  inhabitants  are  so  far 
civilized  that  persons  can  at  all  times  be  found  who 
know  where  their  neighbors  are,  and  what  they  are 
about.  At  present,  however,  our  best  way  was  to  send  to 
Es  Salt,  and  have  our  friends  there  find  the  Arabs  and 
communicate  with  them.  But  no  one  was  found  willing  to 
go  on  this  dangerous  mission.  At  first,  no  one  would  go 
for  any  price.  After  the  village  people  had  consulted  about 
the  matter  for  an  hour  or  two,  some  men  were  f6ui)d  who 
would  go  for  an  enormous  sum.  They  knew  that  we  could 
not  pay  so  much,  but  this  was  their  shrewd  method  of 


TRE    WATCR-TOWER   OF  GILEAD.  371 

declining.  Towards  mid-day,  after  a  long  talk  with  some 
of  the  leading  men,  we  made  the  dangers  appear  less  for- 
midable than  they  did  in  the  morning,  and  at  last  one  yonng 
man  came  forward,  who  for  three  times  the  usual  price 
would  try  to  go  to  Es  Salt ;  at  aU  events  he  would  risk  his 
hfe  on  our  account.  We  paid  him  only  a  small  portion 
down,  for  if  he  were  surely  going  to  be  killed  we  thought 
it  would  not  be  policy  to  lose  our  money  and  our  man  too. 
He  bade  us  good-by,  and  left  his  friends  in  a  very  anxious 
state  of  mind.  It  was  jDossible,  of  course,  that  he  might  be 
picked  off  by  robbers  lying  in  ambush,  for  the  roads  in 
some  places  are  infested  with  desperate  characters.  Still, 
we  hoped  aU  would  go  well,  and  tried  to  cheer  him  as  he 
left  us. 

In  three  or  four  days  he  was  at  the  appointed  place  in 
the  Jordan  valley  with  the  Arabs  whom  we  wanted,  and 
had  experienced  no  harm. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

On  the  Lower  Zerka,  or  Jabbok. 

Outlook  to  the  east.  The  plains  of  Bashan.  Wadies  Yabis  and 
'Ajlun.  Flour-mills.  Military  route.  Fruit-trees.  Tell  Ammata. 
Mashalkha  Arabs.  The  Beni  Abbad.  Our  English  friends  enjoy 
hunting.  Tell  Deir  'Alia.  Pottery.  Novel  mode  of  fording  the 
Jabbok.  Dens  or  cells.  Figures  in  red  paint.  Dealing  with  Arabs. 
No  dragomans  needed.  Spring  chickens  at  reduced  price.  Sliep- 
herd  and  a  sun-umbrella.  Anxiety  about  our  Arabs.  English 
friends  return.  The  "bark"  of  Arab  dogs.  "Jack"  gets  tired. 
A  feast  and  a  murder.  "  Seventeen-shooter."  Interest  in  guns. 
The  cotmtry  disturbed.     Sending  property  to  Es  Salt. 

Camp  at  Wady  Zeric'^,  or  the  Jabbok, 
IN  THE  Jordan  Valley,  Wednesday,  March  21,  1877. 

TO  one  who  is  familiar  only  with  the  rocky  fields  and 
rough  mountain-sides  of  Western  Palestine,  the 
scenery  anywhere  among  the  Grilead  hills  would  be  a 
pleasant  as  well  as  a  gi'eat  surprise.  The  combination  of 
hills,  valleys,  fields,  watercourses,  and  forests  is  such  that 
scores  of  square  miles  might  be  taken  in  the  condition  in 
which  they  are  found  to-day,  and  cut  up  into  beautiful 
parks.  From  certain  summits  the  view  towards  the  west  is 
magnificent,  commanding  the  Dead  Sea,  the  Sea  of  Gralilee, 
the  entire  Jordan  valley,  and  much  of  Western  Palestine 


ON  THE  LOWER  ZEBKA.  373 

"besides,  while  from  other  points  the  sweep  to  the  north,  the 
south,  and  the  east  is  abnost  unlimited.  The  eye  runs  from 
Damascus  and  its  fertile  plain  far  down  into  the  remote 
regions  of  Moab,  and  although  far  to  the  east  the  Hauran 
Mountains  cut  off  the  view  in  that  direction,  yet  the  pros- 
pect to  the  north-east  and  south-east  is  unobstructed.  One 
sees  aU  Bashan  lying  bke  a  garden  or  a  prairie  at  one's  feet. 
The  view  embraces  also  a  large  part  of  Moab  and  GiLead. 
Trachonitis,  Auranitis,  Batanea,  Gaulanitis,  and  Iturea  can 
from  some  points  be  brought  under  the  eye  at  once.  Bozrah 
is  there,  a  city  five  miles  in  circumference,  appearing  like  a 
small  black  spot  on  the  plain.  There  is  the  battle-field 
where  King  Og  was  defeated.  Yonder  are  his  two  capitals 
—  Ashtaroth  and  Edrei.  There  are  the  sites  of  the  sixty 
cities  which  had  walls  and  brazen  bars.  Yonder  is  the  route 
of  the  great  army  of  the  Israelites  under  Moses  and  Joshua. 
There  also  is  the  route  of  Judas  Maccabeus  and  his  veteran 
soldiers.  A  large  amount  of  land,  taking  it  aU  together,  is 
cultivated  in  the  Hauran,  and  this  fact  is  best  appreciated 
when  one  stands  on  one  of  these  summits  and  looks  down 
upon  the  plain  of  Bashan.  Besides  the  green  fields  of  grain, 
one  would,  with  a  glass,  pick  out  a  large  number  of  ruins, 
and  likewise  detect  here  and  there  various  groups  of  black 
tents  or  great  herds  of  camels. 

The  upper  portion  of  Wady  Yabis  or  Akhdar, — its 
gardens  and  orchards,  its  fields  of  grass  and  grain,  com- 
bine to  render  it  a  charming  place;  but  Wady  'Ajlun 
surpasses  Wady  Yabis  in  respect  to  cultivation  and  beauty, 
because  it  is  larger,  and  the  fountains  which  feed  its 
copious  stream  are  at  a  much  higher  level  in  the  moun- 
tains. 'Ain  Jenneh  is  near  the  head  of  the  wady,  and  the 
fountain  and  streams  flowing  among  the  olive-trees  and 
walnut-groves  make  this  one  of  the  most  delightful  vaUeys 
in    Syria.      There    are    three    other    flourishing  villages, 


374  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

namely,  'Ajluii,  'Anjara,  and  Kefrenji,  all  except  the  last  in 
the  immediate  neighborhood  of  'Ain  Jenneh,  and  the  valley, 
from  this  last  place  clear  up  to  Kiilat  er  Rubad  itself,  is 
full  of  ruins,  showing  that  this  locality  has  been  occupied 
by  towns  or  cities  from  remote  times.  At  one  point  on 
this  wady,  I  saw  an  orchard  of  unusual  extent,  in  which 
were  at  least  eight  kinds  of  fruit-trees ;  the  fig,  olive,  apri- 
cot, quince,  plum,  lemon,  apple,  and  pomegranate,  growing 
side  by  side.  The  valley  is  full  of  flour-mills.  I  counted 
at  least  a  dozen,  some  of  which,  however,  were  not  in 
use.  For  the  most  of  the  distance,  Wady  'Ajlun  is  not  a 
ravine  but  a  broad  valley,  along  which  a  road  could  easily 
be  built.  The  road,  when  approaching  the  mouth  of  the 
wady,  turns  to  the  left,  or  south,  and  drops  down  into 
Wady  Rajib,  where  there  is  also  a  large  stream  of  clear, 
cool  water.  This  wady  is  sometimes  called  Wady  Ammata 
in  the  lower  part,  but  Wady  Rajib  in  the  upper  portion. 
Tell  Ammata,  at  the  mouth,  is,  no  doubt,  the  site  of  an 
ancient  city,  corresponding  to  the  Amathus  of  Eusebius 
and  Josephus,  and  also  of  the  Jerusalem  Tabnud.  Soon 
after  leaving  Tell  Ammata,  we  passed  the  wehj  of  Abu  Obei- 
deh,  where  were  several  groups  of  tents  belonging  to  the 
MashalMia  Arabs.  Along  the  Zerka,  and  particidarly  near 
Tell  el  Hamma,  which  is  at  the  mouth  of  Wady  Zerka,  the 
Beni  Abbad  were  encamped.  Soon  after  leaving  Abu 
Obeideh,  some  Arabs  came  to  meet  us,  who  proved  to  be 
our  old  friends.  The  sheikh  had  a  very  long,  fine  spear, 
and  his  greetings  were  most  cordial.  He  and  his  people 
offered  to  assist  us.  This  sheikh,  however,  was  a  brother 
of  the  one  who  had  served  us  on  former  occasions,  and 
"for  the  love  which  his  brother  had  for  us,  he  himself 
would  become  om*  servant."  The  sequel  showed  that  we 
had  no  reason  to  suspect  the  sincerity  of  his  high-sound- 
ing words,  for  he  proved  himself  a  faithful  friend. 


ON  THE  LOWER  ZERKA.  375 

On  my  first  visit  to  Kiilat  er  Rubad,  I  was  inclined  to 
think,  as  some  others  have  done,  that  it  was  Moslem  work, 
but  subsequent  examinations  have  convinced  me  that  the 
foundations,  at  least,  belong  to  the  oldest  work  in  the 
country.  The  stones  are  of  the  same  character  as  those  in 
the  lower  portions  of  the  castle  at  Shukif ,  Banias,  Bozrah, 
and  like  some  of  the  lower  portions  of  the  wall  of  Jeru- 
salem.   Arabs  never  budd  with  stones  of  that  size. 

Since  coming  here,  our  English  friends  have  had  fine 
sport  hunting  in  the  bottom-lands  along  the  Zerka.  Quail 
and  francolin  are  abundant.  With  some  of  my  companions 
I  revisited  TeU  Deir  'Alia  (written  Derala  in  the  Jerusa- 
lem Talmud),  and  noted  the  points  that  can  be  seen  from 
its  summit.  We  asked  an  Ai-ab  who  was  with  us  how  the 
mound  came  to  be  covered  with  pottery.  "  God  put  it 
there,"  said  he,  and  this  was  his  only  reply.  These  people 
have  nothing  to  do  with  "  secondary  causes,"  and  thus 
save  themselves  a  great  deal  of  trouble. 

I  found  a  place  where,  with  my  rubber  boots,  I  could 
wade  across  the  Zerka,  and,  indeed,  I  have  often  done 
so  without  wetting  my  feet.  This  time,  however,  I  carried 
Mr.  Ashworth  across  on  my  back,  and  did  so  again  on  our 
return  from  the  ramble  that  afternoon.  He  was  very 
much  amused  at  the  way  in  which  the  difficulty  of  his 
crossing  the  stream  had  been  overcome.  We  visited  the 
point  on  the  south  of  the  Zerka  where  the  mountain 
approaches  the  stream,  and  where  there  are  some  curious 
excavations  in  the  rocks.  The  rock  in  the  side  of  the 
mountain  farther  south  is  full  of  dens  or  cells,  but  at 
this  point  great  masses  of  rock  lie  along  the  vaUey  near 
the  Zerka,  which  contain  several  of  these  cells.  Why 
the  cells  should  have  been  made  in  these  rocks  I  coidd 
not  at  first  understand,  but  at  length  discovered  that  the 
masses  had   at   some   time  fallen   from  the   side   of    the 


376  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

mountain  above.  Land-slides,  I  have  discovered,  are  not 
infrequent  in  different  parts  of  the  country.  These 
homes  or  dens  of  anchorites  were  excavated  in  what  was 
once  the  solid  rock  of  the  mountain.  J  noticed  that  at 
least  two  of  these  cells  were  nicely  ornamented  with 
figures  drawn  in  red  paint.  "With  time  and  patience  the 
designs  could  be  copied.  Mr.  Ashworth,  as  well  as  myself, 
thought  that  these  drawings  were  remarkable. 

The  Ai-abs  about  us  are  very  kind  and  do  us  many 
favors.  There  is  a  way  to  get  along  with  them  easily 
and  without  being  molested  by  them.  One  of  the  most 
unsafe  ways  is  to  employ  a  dragoman  from  Jerusalem, 
Beirut,  or  Damascus.  This  class  of  persons  terrify  travel- 
lers by  exaggerated  accounts  of  the  dangers,  and  thus 
extort  a  large  price  for  taking  them  east  of  the  Jordan ; 
and  when  once  they  have  reached  the  country,  they  do 
not  treat  the  Arabs  with  any  too  much  civility,  and 
serious  trouble  is  liable  to  ensue.  The  Arabs  are  easUy 
affronted,  and  will  make  exactions  of  travellers  who  are 
under  the  care  of  a  dragoman  which  they  would  never 
make  if  the  travellers  could  communicate  with  them  in 
their  own  language  and  journeyed  alone. 

Game,  as  I  have  said,  is  abundant  here,  and  our  living 
is  a  little  better  than  when  we  depend  on  oui*  canned 
provisions  and  the  scanty  supplies  we  are  able  to  pur- 
chase of  the  Arabs.  Often  in  the  desert  we  would  have 
been  willing  to  pay  a  large  price  for  a  chicken,  but  here 
some  women  came  along  with  chickens  for  sale,  which 
were  offered  at  two  piastres  each,  that  is,  eight  cents. 
They  were  nice  chickens,  but  we  were  well  supplied  with 
quail,  francolin,  and  other  birds,  and  did  not  wish  to 
purchase. 

While  we  were  on  Tell  Deir  'Alia,  a  peasant  came 
running  from  a  great  distance  at  the  west  of  us,  where 


ON  THE  LOWER  ZERKA.  ■  377 

he  was  at  work  in  the  plaiu.  When  he  reached  us  he 
was  very  much  excited,  and  we  thought  perhaps  some- 
thing was  wrong  with  him,  or  about  our  being  on  the 
mound,  but  he  simply  wanted  to  see  who  we  were  and 
what  we  were  doing.  He  soon  became  very  friendly  and 
talked  a  great  deal.  He  took  my  sun-umbreUa  and  sat 
down  under  it,  and  then  laughed,  at  the  same  time  asking 
what  it  was  for.  He  said  his  friends  would  see  it,  and  they 
would  wonder  what  tent  that  was  on  the  top  of  the  tell. 

This  morning  (21st)  I  arose  early,  feeling  quite  anxious 
about  oui*  Arabs,  whom  we  expected,  and  who  were  over- 
due, in  case  that  nothing  had  happened  to  them.  Before 
my  companions  were  up,  however,  our  Bedawin  friends 
were  announced,  much  to  my  relief  and  satisfaction. 
They  explained  to  us  the  real  situation  among  the  tribes, 
and,  as  they  had  had  no  sleep,  they  wanted  to  rest  that 
day.  This  plan  seemed  the  best,  and  the  day  was  spent 
in  preparations  for  future  work,  and  in  necessary  duties 
about  the  camp. 

Our  English  friends  decided  to  leave  us  here  and  return 
to  Beirut.  They  did  not  care  to  expose  themselves  need- 
lessly to  dangers  among  the  Bedawin,  and,  besides,  their 
own  duties  made  it  necessary  for  them  to  return  at  this 
time.  Two  horsemen  who  had  come  with  us  from 
Tiberias,  we  sent  back  from  the  Zerka,  because  their 
lives  would  not  be  safe  among  the  wild  Arabs,  and  we 
did  not  wish  to  incur  risk  on  their  account.  Our  friends 
went  up  the  vaUey  in  the  care  of  these  two  men.  They 
were  to  spend  two  nights  in  the  Bedawin  tents  with 
Arabs  who,  we  knew,  would  receive  and  treat  them  weU.* 

*  We  learned  afterwards  that  they  had  reached  Tiberias  with- 
out special  incident,  except  being  made  painfully  aware  of  the 
contrast  between  a  good  bed  in  a  civilized  home  and  any  which 
the  wild  Arabs,   in  their  tents,   had  to  offer  a  guest. 


378  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

These  gentlemen  took  with  them  their  two  dogs,  leaving 
us  only  three.  Our  dogs  have  been,  on  some  occasions,  a 
means  of  protection  to  us.  The  Arabs  are  never  without 
dogs  about  their  tents,  and  the  howling  of  these  animals 
at  night,  or  even  during  the  day-time,  if  a  person 
approaches  a  tent,  is  something  fearful.  The  voices  of 
their  dogs  are,  in  every  respect,  unlike  the  cry,  howl, 
or  bark  of  dogs  in  civilized  lands.  Some  voices  are 
husky  and  hoarse,  others  faint  and  pitched  on  a  high 
key;  some  dogs  appear,  indeed,  to  have  very  little  voice  at 
all,  while  others  have  a  low  growl,  resembling  a  roar ; 
but,  among  all  these  twenty  or  more  different  voices,  you 
will  not  recognize  one  that  has  a  clear,  natural  bark,  like 
a  dog  in  Europe  or  America.  The  presence  of  our  dogs 
has  been  thus  far  a  warning  to  any  e\Tl-disposed  Arabs, 
if  there  have  been  such  persons  about,  that  they  could 
not  probably  approach  our  tent  at  night  without  being 
encountered  by  our  protectors.  As  for  '^  Jack,"  he  has 
short  hair,  and  his  feet  often  become  sore  from  running 
over  the  rocks  and  parched  plains  ;  we  have  frequently 
been  obliged  to  mount  him  on  the  top  of  a  mide-load 
and  carry  him  for  miles. 

After  our  friends  had  gone,  we  devoted  om*  attention 
for  some  time  to  the  politics  of  the  country.  Before 
this,  however,  our  new-comers  had  gone  to  the  tents  of 
the  Beni  Abbad  to  have  a  conference  and  to  di'ink  coffee. 
The  Abbad  were  one  of  the  aggrieved  parties  in  the 
recent  trouble.  Sheikh  Musa,  of  the  Abbad,  came  to 
our  tents  in  the  afternoon,  and  stayed  two  hours  con- 
feiTiug  with  us  and  om*  friends,  and  going  over  the 
history  of  the  affair  from  his  point  of  view.  It  was 
not,  however,  until  after  he  had  gone  that  we  got  any 
clear  idea  of  the  state  of  the  case.  It  seems  that  'Ali 
Diab,  the  great  sheikh  of  the  Adwan,  was  pasturing  cattle 


ON  THE  LOWER  ZEBKA.  379 

in  this  region,  and  some  of  the  Beni  Sakhr  came  here 
for  the  same  purpose.  These  two  tribes  are  now  on 
friendly  terms.  The  Beni  Sakhr  people  took  a  sheep 
from  the  Beni  Abbad  to  make  a  feast  for  a  guest  from 
the  Adwan  tribe.  The  Abbad  people  made  a  fuss  about 
the  matter,  and,  in  the  quarrel,  an  Abbad  man  of 
low  degree  shot  and  killed  a  man  of  high  degree 
belonging  to  the  Adwan.  The  original  difficulty  was 
thus  between  the  Abbad  and  the  Beni  Sakhr,  but  it  had 
resulted  in  a  blood  feud  between  the  Adwan  and  the 
Beni  Abbad.  The  Adwan  demanded  satisfaction,  and  at 
one  time  the  Abbad  were  willing  to  give  up  the  mur- 
derer. This,  however,  had  not  been  done ;  and,  so  far  as 
we  could  learn,  the  Adwan  considered  that  they  could 
not  obtain  justice  except  by  attacking  the  Abbad. 

Sheikh  Musa  is  now  an  old  man  with  gray  hair,  yet 
he  has  a  boy's  interest  in  guns.  Perhaps,  as  war  is  in 
prospect,  his  mind  runs  in  that  direction;  yet  most  of 
the  Arabs  that  I  have  seen  have  this  gun  mania,  and  our 
breech-loaders  and  '^  seventeen-shooter,"  as  they  call  our 
Winchester  rifle,  were  always  a  mystery  and  delight  to 
them. 

The  name  of  one  of  our  guides  is  Saleh,  a  brother  of  the 
old  'Ali  Aziz.  He  has  a  fine  form  and  a  pleasant  voice,  and 
for  a  Bedawin  is  a  superior  man.  'Ali  Nimr  is  also  with 
us,  and  Fellah,  and  some  others. 

All  these  Arabs,  the  Beni  Sakhr,  the  Abbad,  and  the 
Adwan,  are  suspicious  of  the  country  between  here  and  Es 
Salt, —  at  least,  they  pretend  to  be  so.  "We  wished  to  send 
some  of  our  property  to  Es  Salt  and  leave  it,  as  it  was 
necessary  to  load  with  barley  the  animals  which  carried  it ; 
since  it  was  impossible  to  obtain  any  along  the  line  of  the 
Jabbok  where  we  proposed  to  go.  But  neither  our  own 
men  nor  our  Ai'abs  were  wiUins;  to  risk  theu*  hves  in  this 


380  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

region.    At   last  an  extra  present  lessened  the  dangers, 
and,  indeed,  opened  the  way. 

By  our  English  friends  to-day  I  sent  letters  to  Beirut 
and  to  America,  To-night  there  is  a  splendid  sky  above 
us,  and  I  regret  that  I  need  sleep,  for  I  should  like  to  keep 
awake  and  watch  the  brilliant  stars  beaming  as  they 
beam  only  in  these  Eastern  lands. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Exploration  of  the   Jabbok. 

Winding  course.  Biblical  associations.  Fertility.  Irrigation.  Cities 
of  Gad.  Beth-aram.  Herod  Antipas.  John  the  Baptist.  Beth 
Nimrah.  Succoth.  Identified  with  Deir  'Alia.  Zaphon.  Penuel 
located  at  Tulul  edh  Dhahab,  or  "  Hills  of  Gold."  Canaan's  crossing. 
Important  discovery.  Zerka,  the  "  blue  stream."  Safety  of  our  mes- 
senger. Barley  scarce.  Arab  indifference  as  to  the  future.  Ree<ls 
for  pens.  Freaks  of  mules.  Small  pig.  Arab  hunting.  Politician 
and  road  commissioner.  Roman  road.  Kulat  Zerka  a  storehouse. 
News  from  the  desert.  Gusr  Azrak.  Theatre  at  Amman.  How 
overlaying  material  was  fastened.  Encounter  with  smallpox. 
Caravan  in  motion.  Theatre  described  as  "  where  the  girls  used  to 
play." 

Camp  at  Amman,  March  26,  1877. 

IN  reference  to  the  fact  of  our  men  braving  all  dangers 
and  going  to  Es  Salt,  as  mentioned  in  the  last  chapter, 
it  may  be  worth  while  to  state  that  our  property  reached 
its  destination  in  safety,  and  our  messengers  with  their 
barley  and  animals  also  returned  in  safety,  and  met  us  at 
the  appointed  place,  farther  up  on  the  Jabbok. 

The  valley  of  the  Zerka,  which  we  have  explored  during 
the  past  few  days,  some  portions  of  it  for  the  second  or  third 
time,  is  one  of  great  interest  in  many  respects.  Its  winding- 
course  is  remarkable,  making  it  in  this  regard  unlike  any 


382  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

other  river  of  SjTia.  The  Jordan  is  more  crooked,  having 
almost  innnmerable  short  bends,  but  the  Jabbok  sweeps 
far  out  into  the  desert,  then  doubles  back  upon  itself 
and  forces  its  way  through  a  great  mountain.  The  valley 
is  seventy  or  more  miles  in  length,  and  is  exceedingly 
fertile.  Along  its  head-waters  lived  a  great  and  powerful 
race,  which  existed  from  the  earliest  advent  of  the  Hebrews 
in  this  region  clear  down  to  a  period  subsequent  to  the 
time  of  Christ.  Besides  its  natural  features,  the  Biblical 
associations  connected  with  it  have  brought  it  prominently 
before  the  Christian  world.  The  valley  itself,  the  stream, 
or  the  towns  upon  its  banks,  have  a  place  in  the 
history  of  Jacob  and  Gideon,  the  Midianites  and  the 
Ammonites,  David  and  Joab,  Jeroboam,  and  Antiochus  the 
Great.  If  Palestine  is  ever  brought  under  a  good  govern- 
ment, this  ancient  valley  will  again  attract  settlers  as  it  has 
hitherto  during  every  flourishing  period  of  the  country's 
history.  Its  capacities  are  great,  because  every  acre  can 
be  reached  by  irrigating  canals.  Even  at  present  it  is 
very  extensively  cultivated,  and  contains  many  fine  farms, 
and  the  wheat  crop  this  year  promises  to  be  excellent. 
With  regard  to  these  canals,  those  who  now  cultivate  the 
land  say  that  they  dig  no  new  ones,  and  the  Arabs  assert 
that  they  have  always  existed  here.  On  the  hill-sides  there 
are,  at  certain  points,  some  unused  canals,  of  which  a 
few  can  be  traced  to  a  distance  of  five  or  eight  miles. 
These  remains  show  that  in  ancient  times  there  was  a  j^er- 
fect  system  of  ii'rigation,  by  which  not  only  the  bottom- 
land was  brought  under  cultivation,  but  in  some  cases 
even  the  foot-hills  themselves.  When  the  present  farmers 
wish  to  utilize  a  new  piece  of  ground,  all  they  have  to  do 
is  to  clear  out  and  repair  one  of  these  old  canals.  Some  of 
these  canals  exhibit  such  skilful  engineering  that  I  often 
wondered  how  the   people   of  to-day,  whether  Arabs  or 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  J  ABB  OK.  383 

fellahin,  could  have  built  them,  until  they  assured  me 
repeatedly  that  neither  they  nor  theii'  fathers  had  anything 
to  do  with  their  construction.  They  must  have  been  built 
originally  at  great  expense,  for  they  lead  under  ledges,  and 
around  l3old,  rocky  cliffs,  following  the  irregularities  in 
the  mountain,  to  a  great  distance,  where  only  skilled  work- 
men could  carry  them.  The  farmers  generally  combine 
and  share  the  expense  of  keeping  a  certain  canal  in  order, 
and  then  each  will  have  control  of  the  water  for  his  fields 
on  certain  specified  days,  the  same  as  is  customary  in  the 
Jordan  valley  and  elsewhere. 

The  children  of  G-ad  had  a  number  of  important  cities, 
and,  indeed,  almost  the  entire  vaUey  on  the  east  of  the  river 
Jordan  seems  to  have  fallen  to  their  lot.  In  Joshua  xiii., 
27,  we  read:  "And  in  the  vallej  [emeJi]  Beth-aram,  and 
Beth-nimrah,  and  Succoth,  and  Zaphon,  the  rest  of  the 
kingdom  of  Sihon  king  of  Heshbon,  Jordan  and  his  border, 
even  unto  the  edge  of  the  Sea  of  Chinnereth  on  the  other 
side  Jordan  eastward." 

These  four  places  appear  to  succeed  each  other  in  regular 
order  from  south  to  north. 

(1.)  Beth-aram  is  called  in  Numbers  xxxii.,  36,  Beth-haran, 
and  the  Hebrew  in  the  passage  in  Joshua  referred  to  above 
reads  linram.  The  names  are,  however,  essentially  the  same. 
Josephus,  Eusebius,  Jerome,  and  the  Jerusalem  Talmud 
aU  mention  the  place.  Herod  Antipas  rebuilt  it,  and  called 
it  Julias,  and  this  name  sometimes  appears  as  Libias  or 
Livias.  Its  identity  with  the  modern  Tell  er  Rama  cannot 
reasonably  be  disputed. 

The  rebuilding  of  this  place  by  Herod  Antipas,  and  his 
bestowing  upon  it  a  royal  name,  lead  us  to  infer  that  it 
may  have  been  one  of  his  favorite  resorts.  The  fact  that 
there  was  a  royal  palace  here  only  confirms  this  supposi- 


884  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

tion  ("Wars,"  ii.,  4,  2;  ii.,  9,  1;  "Antiquities,"  xviii.,  2,  1). 
May  it  not  be  reasonable  and  extremely  probable  to  sup- 
pose tliis  to  be  the  place  where  Antipas  was  holding  his 
feast  when  John  the  Baptist  was  beheaded  ?  Maeherus  was 
just  south  of  the  Zerka  M'ain,  on  the  east  of  the  Dead  Sea, 
and  "it  is  implied  from  the  way  in  which  the  order  for  John's 
execution  was  carried  out,  that  the  place  of  his  confinement 
was  near  to  the  scene  of  Herod's  banquet "  (Lewin,  "  Fasti 
Sacri,"  p.  204,  No.  1295).  If  the  occasion  celebrated  was  a 
bii-thday  or  the  anniversary  of  his  accession  to  the  throne, 
the  time  in  either  case  would  have  been  in  the  spring,  and 
before  the  Passover  of  that  year  fihid.,  No.  1294). 

In  my  judgment  an  almost  insuperal)le  objection  to 
supposing  the  feast  to  have  been  held  in  Tiberias,  or  in 
any  city  farther  north  than  Julias,  would  be  the  distance. 
The  head  of  the  \'ictim  appears  to  have  been  produced  (if 
the  feast.  But  in  the  Jordan  valley,  at  no  season  of  the 
year,  could  the  head  of  a  well  man,  after  being  separated 
from  the  body,  be  kept  many  hours  without  becoming 
offensive.  To  go  from  Tiberias  to  Maeherus  and  return 
would  require  at  least  two  days'  and  two  nights'  consecutive 
and  hard  riding.  Of  course  we  might  suppose  that  the 
head  was  salted,  but  I  am  not  aware  that  any  su(?li  custom 
prevailed  at  that  period.  If  Livias,  now  Tell  er  Rama  and 
the  Beth  Haran  of  Joshua's  time,  was  the  scene  of  the 
events  just  referred  to,  it  becomes  one  of  the  saddest  and 
most  memorable  places  in  the  Holy  Land. 

(2.)  Beth-nimrah,  in  like  manner,  corresponds  to  the 
present  Nimrin,  opposite  Jericho.  The  ruins  cover  a  consid- 
erable space,  and  the  location  is  an  excellent  one  for  a  city. 
The  stream  which  flows  past  the  place  is  perhaps  the  largest 
on  that  side  of  the  Jordan  south  of  the  Zerka,  and  to  it 
I  refer  the  "  waters  of  Nimrim,"  mentioned  by  Isaiah  (xv., 
6)  and.  Jeremiah  (xlviii.,  34).     Tlie  drying  up  of  this  large 


EXPLOBATION  OF  THE  JABBOK.  385 

stream  would  indicate  that  all  smaller  ones  had  ceased,  and 
hence  we  can  infer  what  a  terrible  calamity  such  an  event 
would  be  for  all  that  region.  Wady  Nemeii-eh,  at  the 
south-east  corner  of  the  Dead  Sea,  where  an  attempt  has 
been  made  to  place  the  "  waters  of  Nimrim/'  is  not  appro- 
priate, because  the  stream  there  is  insignificant,  and  besides, 
the  word  Nemeireh  is  the  diminutive  of  nimr,  leopard^  and 
hence  means  little  leopard. 

(3.)  Succoth.  Between  "Wady  Nimrin  and  the  Zerka 
the  Jordan  valley  is  quite  barren,  because  it  cannot  be 
irrigated  from  the  Jordan  itself,  and  there  are  no  mountain 
streams  to  bring  down  water  upon  the  plain.  There  are 
no  ruins  in  this  part  of  the  valley,  and  the  region  has  never 
been  occupied  by  towns.  The  physical  conditions  just 
referred  to  make  it  evident  that  we  are  not  to  look  for  the 
site  of  Succoth  south  of  the  Jabbok. 

Succoth  comes  prominently  into  view  on  three  or  foiu* 
occasions,  namely :  Jacob's  return  from  Laban,  the  di\dsion 
of  the  country  tmder  Joshua,  the  pm\suit  of  the  Midianites 
by  Gideon,  and  (if  the  place  is  the  same)  the  casting  of  the 
heavy  furniture  for  the  Temple  by  Solomon. 

The  battle  with  the  Midianites  took  place  not  far  from 
Jezreel,  to  the  north-west  of  Bethshean.  The  routed  desert 
people  fled  across  the  Jordan,  and  took  the  shortest  course 
to  the  great  eastern  plains,  whence  they  had  come.  Gideon 
pursued  them,  crossing  the  Jordan  by  some  ford  near 
Bethshean  (Judges  viii.,  4),  going  down  thence  to  Succoth, 
and  following  the  route  which  the  Midianites  had  taken. 
This  fact  locates  Succoth  on  the  east  of  the  Jordan.  Indeed, 
the  attempt  to  locate  it  west  of  the  Jordan,  at  the  place 
called  Sakkut,  was  never  successful. 

The   details  of  the   division  of  the  country  by  Joshua 
oblige  us  to  place  it  on  the  east  of  the  Jordan,  and  next  in 
order  after  Beth  Nunrah,  to  the  north. 
17 


386  -  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

After  Jacob  had  parted  with  Esau,  he  journeyed  to 
Succoth  (Gen.  xxxiii.,  17).  The  meeting  with  Esau  was 
after  Jacob  had  crossed  the  Jabbok,  and  some  have  argued 
because  there  was  no  mention  of  recrossing  that  river  that 
Succoth  must  be  to  the  south  of  it.  In  the  same  manner  it 
might  be  argued  that  because  there  is  only  one  mention  of 
crossing  the  Jordan,  Jacob  did  not  recross  it,  and  hence 
Shechem  must  be  on  the  east  of  that  river.  But  both 
arguments  are  alike  destitute  of  value  or  force.  The  word 
"journeyed,"  yoi,  gives  no  hint  as  to  direction,  distance, 
or  the  character  of  the  country  passed  over.  From  the 
hints  now  gathered,  we  can  say  that  Succoth  was  not 
south  of  the  Jabbok ;  that  it  must  be  north  of  the  Jabbok, 
either  near  it  or  at  considerable  distance  from  it,  and  that 
it  was  in  the  Jordan  valley  on  the  east  of  the  river. 

Jerome  says  that  Succoth  was  "  trans  Jordanem  in  parte 
Scythopoleos "  (Com.  on  Gen.  xxxiii.,  17).  Again,  it  is 
defined  in  the  Onomasticon  as  "beyond  Jordan,  in  the 
tribe  of  Gad."  We  learn  from  Psalms  Ix.,  6,  that  between 
Shechem  and  Gilead  there  was  a  "  valley  of  Succoth,"  p»y 
(compare  Ps.  cviii.,  7).  Josephus  says  that  stiU  in  his 
time  the  place  was  called  Tents,  which  is  equivalent  to 
Succoth  ("Antiquities,"  i.,  21,  1).  Eusebius  also  calls  the 
place  onrjvaL  (see  the  Onomasticon).  The  region  about 
the  mouth  of  Wady  Zerka  is  fertile,  with  abundant  grass 
and  water,  and  is  very  much  frequented  now  by  the  power- 
ful desert  tribes  for  the  purpose  of  pasturing  their  flocks 
and  herds. 

The  Jerusalem  Talmud  has  an  important  statement 
respecting  Succoth,  where,  speaking  of  the  cities  in  "the 
valley,"  i.e.,  "Beth  Haran,"  etc.,  it  says:  "The  modern 
name  of  Beth  Haran  is  Beth  Ramatha ;  that  of  Beth 
Nimrah  is  Beth  Nimriu ;  that  of  Succoth  is  Darala,  and 
that  of  Zaphon  is  Amatho"  ("  Shibiith,"  ix.,  2,  Gemara). 


EXPLOBATION  OF  THE  JABBOK.  387 

Darala  can  also  be  WTitten  Derala.  Neubaiier  (p.  2-48) 
gives  it  Tarala  or  Tarela,  nVy-ir.  Relaiid  (p.  308)  reads 
rrVy-n,  which  in  the  index,  p.  830,  he  transliterates  Darala. 
nVy-n  is  the  reading  of  the  oldest  editions  of  this  Talmud, 
although  in  the  later  editions  printed  at  Krotoschin,  1866, 
and  Sitomir,  1865-67,  nV»-»n  is  given  instead.  Dr.  Delitzseh, 
however,  the  eminent  commentator,  who  has  examined  the 
matter  thoroughly,  informs  me  that  Darala,  nVy-n,  is  the 
correct  reading.  He  says,  further,  that  nVy-in,  being  a 
Hebrew  word,  has  probably  been  substituted  for  the  combi- 
nation, nVym,  Dar-ala.  This  is  an  important  point,  for  we 
find  that  just  north  of  the  Jabbok  one  of  the  most  conspic- 
uous mounds  or  tells  in  the  plain  is  called  Deir  'Alia.  The 
Talmudic  word  nVsm  is  composed  of  nVy,  "  to  be  high,"  and 
m,  frequently  used  in  Palestinean  Hebrew  to  represent  the 

Arabic  Deu-,    ^.i,  and  "Darala"  is  the  way  a  Jewish  writer 

would  represent  the  local  appellation  just  given.  Further- 
more, in  modern  Hebrew  we  find  at  least  five  competent 
scholars  and  authors,  Benjamin  of  Tudela,  Parchi,  Rabbi 
Joseph  Schwarz,  Dr.  Israel  Schwarz,  and  Dr.  Zunz,  repre- 
senting in  Hebrew  the  Arabic  Deir  hy  dar,  dir^  and  even 
simply  dr. 

It  is  evident  that  the  Hebrews  had  one  name  for  this 
place,  the  Greeks  another,  and,  later,  the  Arabs  another, 
which  last  was  transferred  to  the  Jerusalem  Talmud. 

Zunz's  statement  (Benjamin  of  Tudela,  ii.,  p.  408,  note) 
that  "  nVy-in  is  beyond  doubt  the  Batanic  'Tharsila'  men- 
tioned by  Eusebius,"  is  entirely  inadmissible,  because  the 
Talmud  gives  it  (when  corrected  to  nVym)  as  representing 
Succoth,  which  was  in  the  Jordan  valley,  while  Tharsila 
was  in  Bashan.  * 

*  As  in  this  volume  I  have  repeated  occasion  to  refer  to  the  Jerusa- 
lem Talmud,  it  may  be  important  to  mention  that  in  regard  to  religious 
and  historical  matters,  and  particularly  in  regard  to  geographical  state- 


388  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

This  interesting  tell  is  situated  about  one  mile  north 
of  the  Jabbok.  It  is  sixty  feet  high,  and  longest  from 
east  to  west.  On  the  north  side  it  is  joined  by  a  smaller 
mound,  on  which  are  ruins.  The  large  mound  is  covered 
with  broken  pottery  of  many  colors  and  qualities.  There 
is  every  evidence  that  the  mound  is  artificial ;  indeed,  so 
far  as  it  has  been  examined  below  the  surface,  it  is  a 
mass  of  dehris.  The  Arabs  living  in  that  region  have  a 
tradition  that  this  mound  was  once  occupied  by  a  city. 

If  this  mound  is  the  site  of  Succoth,  it  represents  the 
most  southern  point  reached  by  Gideon  in  his  pursuit  of 
the  Midianites.  If  he  crossed  the  river  near  Beisan  and 
hastened  down  the  hot  valley,  by  the  time  he  and  his  men 
had  reached  Succoth,  the  words  might  well  be  applied  to 
them,  "  faint,  yet  pursuing  "  (Judges  viii.,  4).  The  princes 
of  Succoth  refused  to  aid  Gideon  because  they  lay  in  the 
track  of  the  advancing  and  now  retreating  Midianites, 
and  they  were  not  sure  but,  by  giving  the  aid  asked  for, 
they  should  bring  upon  themselves  the  vengeance  of  the  as 
yet  unconquered  desert  warriors.     (See  verse  6.) 

(4)  Zaphon.  This  place  we  consider  to  be  the  same  as 
Amathus  of  later  times.     According  to  Joshua  xiii.,  27, 

ments,  scholars  consider  it  a  much  more  reliable  authority  than  the 
Babylonian  Talmud.  Upon  the  general  difference  between  the  two 
works,  Steinschneider,  "Jewish  Literature,"  English  translation,  Lon- 
don, 1857,  p.  273,  makes  the  following  remark :  "Fraukel  shows  that 
the  Babylonian  Talmud  injures  the  more  correct  ideas  contained  in  the 
Jerusalem  Talmud  by  many  unwarranted  additions  and  inexact  state- 
ments, and  has  given  examples  in  different  places  of  his  new  Monat- 
schrift."  In  its  geographical  references  and  details,  the  Jerusalem 
Talmud  justly  deserves  to  be  regarded  as  the  higher  authority,  espe- 
cially in  such  as  pertain  to  Palestine,  since  it  was  written  in  the  coun- 
try itself  a  century  and  a  half  before  the  other,  and  by  a  body  of 
intelligent  men,  who  were  eminent  in  their  time,  and  whose  knowledge 
of  the  Holy  Land  was,  as  could  easily  be  shown,  more  exact  than  that 
of  men  who  lived  at  a  much  later  period  in  the  valley  of  the  Euphrates. 


EXPLOBATION  OF  THE  JABBOK.  389 

Zaphon  was  the  next  important  place  immediately  north 
of  Succoth.  Eusebius  and  Jerome  place  Amathus  twenty- 
one  miles  from  Pella,  towards  the  south.  Eusebius  says 
in  "Lower  Perea."  The  Jerusalem  Talmud  states  that 
Zaphon  corresponds  to  Amatho  ("  Shibiith,"  ix.,  2, 
GemaraJ.  Josephus  (''  Antiquities,"  xiii.,  13,  3)  calls 
Amathus  "  a  very  strong  fortress  belonging  to  the  inhabi- 
tants beyond  Jordan."  It  was  taken  by  Alexander  at  the 
time  referred  to,  or  later,  and  demolished  ("  Antiquities," 
xiii.,  13,  5 ;  "  Wars,"  i.,  4,  3).  In  "  Antiquities,"  xvii.,  10, 
6,  Josephus  speaks  of  "the  royal  palace  at  Amathus  by  the 
river  Jordan  "  as  being  burned  down.  In  "  Wars,"  i.,  4,  2, 
it  is  called  '■'  the  principal  fortress  beyond  the  Jordan." 
Edrisi  (pp.  5,  16)  calls  it  one  of  the  largest  cities  in  the 
Jordan  valley. 

About  three  miles,  or  a  little  more,  north  of  Deir  'AUa, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Wady  Rajil>,  is  an  important  ruin  and 
mound  called  Tell  Ammata,  which  we  have  previously 
mentioned.  Burckhardt,  Gesenius,  Zunz,  and  many  others 
consider  this  as  representing  the  Amathus  of  Josephus  and 
the  other  ancient  authorities. 

If  the  Bible  mentions  the  places  in  order,  and  Succoth 
is  at  Deir  'Alia,  Tell  Ammata  must  be  Zaphon.  In  this 
case  the  permanence  of  the  name  is  to  be  noticed.  The 
references  in  Josephus  seem  to  fix  its  position  near  the 
Jordan. 

In  two  passages  (Joshua  xiii.,  27,  and  Judges  xii.,  1)  the 
word  Zaphon  occurs  in  such  a  connection  as  to  make  its 
explanation  somewhat  doubtful.  Some  scholars  regard 
both  as  meaning  northward,  and  think  that  no  proper 
name  is  intended.  Others  regard  both  as  proper  names. 
If  the  men  of  Ephraim  "went  northward,"  ns^ss  nay^,  to 
fight  the  Gileadites,  where  would  they  go  to  ?  Jephthah  at 
this  time  was  at  Mizpeh,  the  present  'Ajlun,  and  the  only 


390 


EAST   OF   THE  JORDAN. 


natural  course  of  the  Ephrainiites  would  be  to  cross  the 
Jordan  at  the  Damieh  ford,  and  push  forward  by  the 
direct  route  for  Jephthah's  capital.  Doing  this,  they  were 
met  at  Zaphon  by  the  enemy  and  beaten. 

Among  the  important  places  in  the  territory  of  Gad,  and 
connected  especially  with  the  region  we  are  now  consider- 
ing, was  Penuel.  This  place  is  so  closely  connected  with 
Succoth  that  the  proper  location  of  the  latter  does  much 
towards  locating  the  former.     From  Gen.  xxxii.,  we  learn 


that  Penuel  must  have  been  situated  immediately  upon  the 
banks  of  the  Jabbok.  In  Gideon's  pursuit  of  Zebah  and 
Zalmunna,  he  ivent  up  (^y^,  Judges  viii.,  8,  11)  from  Succoth. 
After  crossing  the  Jordan  near  Beisan,  he  followed  down 
the  valley  to  Succoth,  and  turned  thence  into  the  hiUs.  It 
is  stated  further :  ''  Gideon  went  up  by  the  way  of  them 
that  dwelt  in  tents,  on  the  east  of  Nobah  and  JogbcT 
hah"  (verse  11).  This  is  added,  to  make  his  route  and 
direction  specific.  "The  way  of  those  dwelling  intents"' 
must  have  referred  to  a  well-known  route  leading  to  the 


EXPLORATION   OF   THE  JABBOK.  391 

eastern  deserts.  Even  if  Nobah.  is  located  at  Knnawat 
and  Jogbehah  at  Jubeiha,  this  would  indicate  the  general 
direction  of  Gideon's  pui-suit,  and  point  to  the  line  of  the 
Jabbok  as  the  course  of  this  desert  route.  Further,  a  fair 
interpretation  of  the  circumstances  leads  to  the  conclusion 
that  Penuel  was  not  far  east  of  Succoth.  Penuel  is  called 
a  city  (n-^y,  verse  17),  of  which  the  chief  feature  was  a 
tower ;  for,  while  nothing  is  said  about  destroying  "the 
city,"  it  is  said  that  Gideon  threatened  to  "  break  down " 
the  tower,  and  afterwards  stated  that  he  "  beat  down  the 
tower"  (verses  9,  17).  This  fact,  that  the  chief  importance 
of  Penuel  consisted  in  its  tower  or  castle,  justifies  us  in  the 
supposition  that  it  was  either  on  the  frontier  or  else  on  some 
main  route  leading  from  the  East  to  Western  Palestine. 

This  is  confirmed  by  the  circumstance  that  Jeroboam, 
after  having  built  Shechem,  went  out  thence  and  rebuilt 
Penuel  (I.  Kings  xii.,  25).  It  seemed  necessary  for  the 
defence  of  his  capital  that  this  eastern  fortress  should  be 
in  good  repair,  and  occupied  (no  doubt)  by  a  sufficient 
garrison. 

As  to  the  site  of  Penuel,  there  is  but  one  suitable  point 
on  the  Jabbok,  and  that  is  at  Tulul  edh  Dhahab,  or  "  Hills 
of  Gold."  These  mounds  are  about  four  miles  east  of 
"Canaan's  ford,"  a  crossing  which  is  not  far  from  Tell 
Deir  'AUa.  They  rise  from  the  middle  of  the  valley  to 
a  height  of  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  They  are 
conical  in  shape,  with  abrupt  sides.  The  line  of  these  hills 
is  east  and  west,  the  same  as  that  of  the  valley ;  but  the 
stream  winds  so  that  one  hill  is  on  one  side  of  it,  and  the 
other  on  the  other  side.  Whether  approached  from  the 
west  or  the  east,  or  looked  down  upon  from  the  mountains 
above  them,  they  form  very  striking  objects.  Further, 
they  are  covered  with  ruins,  and  on  the  eastern  of  the 
two  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  castle.    A  strong  wall 


392  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

of  massive  stones  runs  from  the  summit  to  the  foot  of  the 
eastern  mound  on  the  south-west  side.  The  platform  of 
the  "  tower "  or  castle  was  supported  by  a  wall,  the 
remains  of  which  are  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  high,  and  which 
extends  to  a  distance  of  over  one  hundred  feet.  These 
substantial  structures,  considering  the  size  of  the  stones 
employed,  must  have  been  built  at  very  great  expense. 
The  work  is  not  Moslem,  Christian,  or  Roman ;  the 
stones  are  unhewn  blocks,  and  appear  to  date  from  a 
remote  period.  The  road  from  the  west  follows  up  the 
north  side  of  the  river,  and  crosses  it  a  little  to  the 
east  of  the  eastern  mound.  It  immediately  rises  on  to  a 
small  plateau,  where  are  ruins  called  El  Khiiif.  The 
Midianites,  who  troubled  the  Hebrews,  were  desert  people, 
and,  in  making  their  great  raids  to  the  west,  would  avoid 
the  hills,  and  follow  the  most  feasible  route.  Even  after 
reaching  Western  Palestine,  they  kept  to  the  lowlands. 
The  only  route  open  to  them  was  that  along  the  valley  of 
the  Jabbok.  Here  they  would  be  sure  of  a  good  road  and 
an  abundance  of  grass  and  water.  A  castle  and  garrison 
on  this  route  would  be  very  necessary,  if  the  western  king- 
dom (as  Jeroboam's)  was  to  be  protected  from  invasions 
from  the  eastern  plains.  The  strange  physical  conforma- 
tion of  the  valley  at  this  point,  Tulul  edh  Dhahab,  would 
always  attract  attention.  And  if  the  promontory  of  Ras 
esh  Shukah,  on  the  Syrian  coast  above  Beirut,  could  be 
called  Theouprosopon,  or  "  Face  of  God,"  on  account  of  its 
strange  appearance,  Tulul  edh  Dhahab  would  be  much 
more  likely  to  impress  an  Oriental  as  indicating  some 
special  manifestation  of  Deity,  and  would  receive  its  name 
accordingly. 

The   Mushra'a  Can'aan,  a   ford  of   the  Jabbok  in  the 
Jordan  plain  after  the  stream  leaves  the  hiUs,  is  specially 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  JABBOK.  893 

interesting  on  account  of  the  name.  The  name  may  be 
that  of  a  man  or  of  the  country,  but  in  either  case  it  is 
significant.  The  next  important  ford  is  Mushra'a  Nusrani- 
yet,  or  "  Crossing  of  the  Christian  Woman/'  on  the  road 
between  Es  Salt  and  Burma.  The  crossing  on  the  road 
between  Es  Salt  and  Gerash  is  called  Mushra'a  Ziblieh,  but 
the  Zerka,  unless  when  the  water  is  high,  can  be  crossed  at 
almost  any  point,  except  where  the  bed  is  too  rough.  East 
of  Tulul  edh  Dhahab  the  valley  contracts,  and  at  some 
places  is  only  one  hundred  yards  wide,  yet  there  is  a 
good  road  along  it  which  is  well  worn,  showing  that  it 
is  a  favorite  route.  At  the  Nusraniyet  crossing  the  hills 
on  both  sides  are  quite  steep.  Loaded  animals  are,  how- 
ever, constantly  crossing  there  without  special  difficulty. 
But  even  in  these  narrower  portions  the  width  is  not  uni- 
form. The  hills  recede,  and  there  are  small  fertUe  plains 
where  Arabs  pitch  their  tents,  and  find  water,  pasture, 
and  fuel  in  abundance.  From  a  point  some  distance  below 
the  Gerash  crossing,  the  vaUey  is  wider,  and  from  thence  to 
Amman  it  is  characterized  by  broad  and  fertile  bottom- 
lands. In  that  portion  where  the  stream  reaches  its  most 
eastern  limit,  some  distance  below  the  Kulat  Zerka,  it  is  fed 
by  several  large,  fine  fountains.  Although  the  water  from 
numerous  important  wadies  flows  into  the  Lower  Zerka,  it 
is  stni,  even  in  its  upper  portion,  a  large  stream.  Two  of 
the  more  important  fountains  just  referred  to  are  'Ain  es 
Sukhni  and  'Ain  el  Jirm,  by  the  latter  of  which  our  camp 
was  pitched.  It  is  sixteen  hundred  feet  above  the  sea 
level.  Along  this  most  eastern  portion  of  the  river,  the 
hills  on  both  sides  are  low,  but  barren  of  trees  and 
verdure.  This  fountain,  El  Jirm,  breaks  forth  at  the 
foot  of  a  great  ledge  of  rocks,  and  the  water  in  it  is  very 
clear,  but  not  cold.  The  Zerka,  for  half  its  length  at 
least,  has  a  peculiar  clayey  color.  The  word  Zerka  means 
17* 


394  EAST   OF   THE  JOED  AN. 

blue.  When  looked  down  upon  from  the  hills,  it  some- 
times shows  a  bluish  tint. 

In  my  opinion,  the  Zerka  in  its  eastern  portion  is  much 
more  winding,  and  likewise  extends  farther  to  the  east,  than 
has  hitherto  been  indicated  on  the  best  maps. 

My  companion,  as  well  as  myself,  likewise  our  muleteers 
and  servants,  of  their  own  accord,  often  remarked,  "What 
a  fine  road  this  is  along  the  Zerka ! " 

The  men  whom  we  sent  to  Es  Salt,  as  before  stated, 
overtook  us  at  our  second  camping-place.  They  had 
experienced  no  trouble  from  wild  and  warlike  Arabs,  but 
had  experienced  a  great  deal  in  finding  barley.  Barley  in 
aU  of  this  region  is  very  scarce,  the  price  is  high,  and  our 
men  declared  that  they  had  to  beg  it  from  house  to  house. 
There  has  been  but  little  rain  in  all  this  section  of  the 
country  south  of  the  Zerka,  but  the  people  with  whom 
we  have  talked  seem  very  indifferent  aboiit  it.  They 
say,  "God  is  merciful."  They  do  not  worry  about  a 
lack  of  rain  or  the  prospect  of  poor  crops,  as  people 
in  similar  circumstances  would  do  in  America.  I  do  not 
know  but  they  are  right.  Worrying  about  what  cannot 
be  helped  does  no  good ;  yet  in  Christian  America  we  do  it 
constantly. 

On  the  Zerka  the  abundance  of  the  retem-bush  attracted 
my  attention,  because  it  was  not  in  flower  on  the  Lower 
Zerka,  but  was  so  higher  up.  On  some  bushes  the  ripened 
seed-pods .  and  flowers  were  found  together.  Some  of  these 
bushes  are  of  great  size. 

At  one  portion  of  the  valley  east  of  the  Gerash  crossing, 
a  peculiar  reed  grows,  such  as  is  used  for  making  pens. 
Our  Arabs  stated  that  it  did  not  grow  elsewhere  on  the 
streams  of  the  Belka,  neither  on  the  Jordan,  and  on  the 
Zerka  only  here.  For  the  correctness  of  this  statement  I 
do  not  pretend  to  vouch. 


EXPLORATION   OF  THE  JABBOK.  395 

The  fine  wheat  fields  along  the  line  of  the  Jabbok  are  to 
me  a  constant  surprise.  There  are  a  few  mills  now  in 
operation  at  different  points  on  the  stream,  together  with  a 
noticeable  number  of  ruined  mills.  Sometimes  a  mill  is 
built,  and  the  owner,  not  finding  it  profitable,  abandons  it. 
In  other  cases,  the  point  chosen  has  proved  to  be  unsafe 
•because  of  robbers,  and  after  one  or  two  millers  have  been 
murdered  the  place  is  forsaken. 

The  formation  along  the  Lower  Zerka  is  sandstone,  and 
I  noticed  several  places  where  there  had  been  remarkable 
land-slides.  Great  masses  of  earth  and  rock  have  fallen, 
and  in  one  case  the  whole  side  of  the  hill  or  mountain  had 
gone  down  into  the  vaUey  below.  The  sandstone  does  not 
appear  to  hold  so  firmly  as  limestone. 

At  one  point,  while  our  camp  was  crossing  a  beautiful 
plain,  three  of  our  mules,  without  any  warning,  suddenly 
plunged  down  the  bank  to  the  stream  below,  and  in  doing 
so,  fell  with  their  loads.  Two  loads  went  into  the  stream, 
and  this  made  trouble  and  loud  talking  among  the  tired 
muleteers  and  servants.  When  the  accident  happened,  only 
three  or  four  men  were  in  sight,  and  these  laboring  in  a 
field;  but  the  noise  of  our  men  drew  together  a  dozen 
or  twenty  fellahin  and  Arabs.  They  seemed  to  rise  out  of 
the  ground,  for  no  one  could  tell  whence  they  came.  I 
have  often  been  surprised  at  a  similar  phenomenon.  When 
we  have  supposed  that  we  were  entirely  alone  and  unob- 
served, and  that  no  people  were  within  mQes  of  us,  we 
have  seen  here  and  there  the  head  of  an  Arab  rising  fi'om 
behind  some  rocks.  They  peer  out  cautiously  at  first,  but 
soon  grow  bolder,  and  at  last  stand  up,  and  generally 
come  where  we  are,  for  whatever  fears  they  may  have 
would  not  stand  in  the  way  of  the  gratification  of  their 
curiosity.  An  Arab  is  one  of  the  most  inquisitive  of 
mortals. 


396  EAST  OF  THE  JOJRDAN. 

We  caught,  at  one  camping-place  in  this  valley,  a  small 
pig  not  three  weeks  old.  He  was  beautifully  marked  with 
brown  and  white  stripes,  and  his  head  was  very  large  in 
proportion  to  the  rest  of  his  body.  We  tried  to  keep  him, 
but  his  presence  was  likely  to  make  trouble  with  our 
Mohammedan  friends,  and  it  was  with  considerable  regret 
that  we  Idlled  and  stuffed  him.  When  full  grown,  he  would 
have  been  a  savage  beast,  and  with  his  nose  he  would  have 
been  able  to  do  the  work  of  a  ploughshare  in  a  wheat  field. 
The  thickets  along  some  portions  of  the  Zerka  are  the 
favorite  resort  of  wild  boars,  as  well  as  of  jackals  and  other 
animals.  Sometimes  the  Arabs  set  fire  to  the  dry  material 
along  the  river-bank,  which  drives  out  the  animals,  while 
the  Arabs  stand  ready  to  shoot  them,  or  give  them  chase. 
They  gave  us  enthusiastic  accounts  of  these  hunting  opera- 
tions. Among  the  growth  of  bushes  and  trees  along  the 
Jabbok,  the  oleanders  deserve  to  be  mentioned.  They 
stretch  unbroken  for  perhaps  one  mile,  and  look  like  a 
young  forest,  presenting  to  the  eye,  when  in  bloom,  a  scene 
of  indescribable  beauty. 

The  valley  at  present  is  full  of  Arabs.  Of  those  in  our 
employ,  FeUah  seems  to  be  most  interested  in  the  politics 
of  the  country.  He  knows  the  size  of  the  different  tribes 
and  their  location,  and  speculates  about  the  possibility 
of  trouble  between  them ;  and  even  appears  to  be  anxious 
about  the  consequences  of  the  war  in  Eui'ope.  His  forte  is 
government.  One  of  his  friends,  however,  seems  to  be 
thoroughly  posted  as  to  all  roads,  paths,  or  trails.  He 
would  make  a  good  overseer  of  highways,  if  such  an  officer 
were  needed  in  the  desert. 

'Ain  el  Jirm  is  two  hours  forty-five  minutes  north  of 
Kulat  Zerka.  Twenty  minutes  south  of  this  point,  a  large 
wady  enters  the  Zerka  valley  from  the  east.  It  is  called 
Wady  Dhulail,  and  I  refer  to  it  because  it  illustrates  what 


EXPLORATION   OF  THE  JABBOK.  397 

a  vast  volume  of  water  may  sometimes  flow  in  a  wady 
which  is  diy  most  of  the  year.  In  this  case,  judging  from 
the  marks  of  the  dehris  on  the  bushes  and  banks,  this 
stream  must  have  been  from  fifty  to  seventy  yards  wide, 
and  from  three  to  six  feet  deep — so  deep  that  it  would  be 
impossible  for  animals  to  cross. 

At  Kulat  Zerka,  the  course  of  the  stream  and  valley  is 
north-east  and  south-west.  The  castle  is  two  thousand  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  sea  level.  We  stayed  a 
long  time  at  this  place,  and  besides  chatting  with  the 
people  of  the  castle,  went  through  the  nearly  endless 
ceremony  of  drinking  coffee.  With  the  Arabs  here 
were  several  women,  who  assisted  about  making  the 
fire,  and  also  listened  to  our  conversation,  and  asked 
us  for  tobacco.  Kulat  Zerka  is  kept  in  tolerable  repair,  as 
it  is  needed  by  the  pilgrims  to  Mecca,  and  the  Arabs  of  the 
neighborhood  store  then*  grain  within  its  walls.  We 
noticed  great  quantities  of  barley  and  flour  stored  in  boxes 
and  bags.  They  told  us  that  it  belonged  to  the  Bedawin. 
As  no  one  dare  touch  it,  it  is  perfectly  safe.  This  castle  is 
their  bank.  The  present  keeper  informed  us  he  had  been 
there  three  years,  and  his  father  was  keeper  there  before 
him. 

The  Roman  road  from  Kulat  Zerka  to  Amman  can 
easily  be  traced  at  certain  points.  There  are  a  few  ruins 
in  the  valley,  and  others  among  the  hills,  both  to  the  north 
and  the  south  of  it,  and  one  of  these,  Rusaifeh,  on  the 
north  of  the  wady,  must  have  been  a  city  of  importance. 

Along  this  valley,  many  square  miles,  which  last  year 
were  covered  with  fine  wheat,  are  this  year  dry  and  barren. 
The  land  is  allowed  to  he  idle  one,  and  sometimes  two 
years.  Then  it  is  ploughed  and  in'igated,  and  when  seed 
is  sown,  behold,  the  desert  plains  become  green  and  fruit- 
ful !     Below  Amman,  a  great  many  camels  were  feeding, 


398  EAST  OF  TEE  JOED  AN. 

and  there  were  hundreds  of  tents  belonging  to  some  of  the 
Belka  Arabs. 

During  our  consultation  at  Kulat  Zerka,  I  tried  to  learn 
something  about  the  country  to  the  east.  They  said 
that  Arabs  going  to  the  east  took  a  three  days'  supply  of 
water  with  them.  At  that  distance  there  was  a  castle, 
great  marshes,  and  a  river  flowing  eastward.  I  asked 
about  the  distance  of  Salchad,  Um  el  Jemal,  and  Bozrah, 
from  the  place  of  which  they  spoke,  but  they  all  replied 
that  Kulat  Zerka  was  nearer  than  any  one  of  the  points  I 
had  mentioned.  One  of  the  men  said  that  the  castle  was 
"like  Kulat  Zerka."  Another  said,  "There  is  always  water 
there,  and  a  large  swamp,  and  many  water-fowl.  There  is 
a  Nahr  Azrak,  and  a  Grusr  Azrak."  An  oldish  man,  who 
came  into  the  castle  while  we  were  drinking  our  coffee,  said 
that  once  he  came  the  entire  distance  from  the  j^lace  of 
which  we  were  speaking  to  Kulat  Zerka  in  a  single  day.  He 
started  eai-ly  in  the  morning,  and  arrived  at  his  destination 
late  at  night.  This  is  substantially  the  same  testimony 
that  I  have  obtained  from  other  Ai'abs.  On  a  former  visit 
to  this  place,  as  I  have  elsewhere  stated,  a  young  man,  whom 
I  did  not  now  see,  said  the  only  ruin  he  knew  anything 
about,  lying  near  the  castle  to  the  east,  was  one  called 
Khau. 

I  have  reexamined  and  measured  the  theatre  here,  and 
also  the  other  remains.  The  extensive  ruins  on  the  top  of 
th^  hill  to  the  north  no  doubt  occupy  the  site  of  the 
citadel,  or  part  of  the  great  city,  which  David  took  after 
Joab  had  taken  the  city  of  waters,  i.  e.,  that  portion  of  the 
town  which  lay  along  the  stream  itself.  I  spent  a  part  of 
one  night  in  the  great  theatre,  when  the  moon  was  shining 
with  all  its  intensity.  The  sense  of  desolation  was  oppres- 
sive.   Kings,  princes,  wealth,  and  beauty  once  came  here 


EXPLORATION   OF  THE  JABBOK. 


399 


to  be  entertained,  where  now  I  see  only  piles  of  stones, 
owls  and  bats,  wi'etched  fellahin  and  donkeys,  goats  and 
filth.  The  Arabs  have  no  means  of  recalling  the  past,  but 
to  those  who  can  do  so,  the  contrast  between  what  has 
been  and  what  is  to-day,  in  such  a  case  as  this,  is  painful. 


Large    Theatre   at    Amman,    and    Small    Theatre    at   the    Left. 


The  stream  here  is  full  of  fish.  They  have  yellow 
l)ellies,  and  are  very  slimy  compared  with  fish  in  our 
American  streams.  I  tried  to  shoot  some,  but  did  not  kill 
any.  The  Arabs  killed  quite  a  string  of  these  fish  with 
stones — a  method  of  fishing  I  never  heard  of  before. 

Unlike  very  many  cities  of  Palestine,  the  position  of 
Rabbath  of  the  children  of  Ammon,  which  was  called  the 
"  City  of  Waters,"  did  not  enjoy  a  fine  outlook,  because 
it  lay  in  a  valley  between  two  mountains.     Yet  there  was 


400  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

quite  an  extensive  view  up  the  valley  to  the  west  and  down 
it  to  the  east;  but  from  the  hill  to  the  north  and  the 
citadel  and  temple  situated  there,  the  view  was  extensive, 
reaching  in  the  north-east  as  far  as  Salchad  castle,  which, 
although  sixty  miles  distant,  is  a  prominent  object  on  the 
horizon. 

It  has  been  stated  in  some  books  that  the  bed  of  the 
Zerka,  where  it  passes  through  Amman,  was  paved,  but  of 
such  paving  I  find  no  traces.  The  natural  bed  is  rocky, 
and  the  stream  is  full  of  square  blocks  and  broken 
columns  that  have  fallen  into  it.  There  is  evidence,  how- 
ever, that  the  stream,  in  portions  at  least,  was  covered,  and 
the  space  above  levelled  and  perhaps  paved,  which  would 
have  added  a  gi'eat  deal  to  the  breadth  and  beauty  of  the 
city,  to  say  nothing  of  the  convenience  to  the  inhabitants. 

On  the  interior  walls  of  the  cathedral  and  some  of 
the  other  public  buildings  here,  and  likewise  on  certain 
columns,  there  are  a  multitude  of  holes,  which  cannot  easily 
be  accounted  for  by  a  person  seeing  them  for  the  first 
time.  Such  holes  occur  in  very  many  of  the  best  ruins  east 
of  the  Joi'dan.  But  the  walls,  in  many  cases,  were  over- 
laid with  plaster,  or  probably  in  a  few  instances  with  some 
more  costly  material;  and,  in  order  to  support  it,  holes  were 
made  on  the  face  of  the  stones  which  was  next  to  the 
room,  and  in  these  small  pieces  of  copper  or  iron  were 
inserted  and  fastened,  and  the  short  projecting  end  was 
bent  upwards  so  as  to  form  a  hook  on  which  the  overlay- 
ing material  was  firmly  supported.  From  these  ruins,  and 
also  from  others  previously,  I  peeled  off  some  of  the  plaster 
and  obtained  several  specimens  of  these  copper  hooks. 
They  are  in  the  shape  of  a  nail,  or  more  frequently  flat 
pieces  of  copper,  two  or  three  inches  long,  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  wide,  and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Where 
iron  was  used,  it  has,  for  the  most  part,  decayed.     During 


EXPLORATION   OF  THE  JABBOK. 


401 


past  centuries  the  most  of  such  overlaying  material  has 
fallen  off,  or  else  it  has  been  stripped  off  by  the  natives  in 
order  to  obtain  these  bits  of  copper  and  iron,  which  they 
could  find  abundant  ways  of  using  to  advantage.     If  for 


Ruin   at  Amman,   Showing   Holes  on  the    Interior  of  the  Walls, 

no  other  pui'pose,  they  could  utilize  them  as  they  do  bits 
of  lead  which  they  get  from  old  ruins,  that  is,  by  cutting 
them  into  small  pieces  and  using  them  instead  of  bullets 
or  shot.  The  pieces  of  copper  were  generally  wedged  in 
Avith  bits  of  flint  or  marble. 

The  apse  of  this  cathedral,  according  to  my  compass, 
instead  of  being  at  the  east  end,  where  it  is  commonly 
to  be  looked  for,  was  at  the  south-east.  It  may  have 
been  arranged  thus  on  account  of  the  inconvenience  aris- 
ing from  the  channel  of  the  stream,  or  from  the  situation 
of  other  buildings. 


402  EAST  OF  THE  JOED  AN. 

Near  this  cathedral  were  some  Arab  tents,  and,  after 
a  while,  a  woman,  apparently  in  distress,  came  to  us 
and  wanted  help.  She  did  not  state  clearly  what  the 
trouble  was.  By  questioning  her,  we  learned  that  her 
husband  and  some  other  members  of  her  family  had  the 
smallpox,  and  she  was  asking  for  medicine,  and  that  we 
should  go  and  examine  and  treat  the  cases.  The  Arabs 
appear  to  be  quite  indifferent  to  this  terrible  disease, 
although  they  tell  us  that  sometimes  it  is  very  fatal. 
Yet,  let  a  report  come  from  the  East  or  the  interior  that 
the  cholera  is  moving  westward,  and  these  same  people 
are  thrown  into  a  wild  panic.  In  the  present  case  we 
declined  having  anything  to  do  with  them,  and,  so  far  as 
we  could,  kept  clear  of  that  camp.  Smallpox  is  not  an 
agreeable  neighbor  at  any  time.  Most  of  all  is  it  so  in 
the  desert,  away  from  medical  skill  and  comforts  of  every 
kind. 

A  long  caravan  of  Arabs,  moving  eastward,  passed  our 
camp  while  here,  presenting  the  usual  grotesque  appear- 
ance. They  live  in  the  desert,  and  appear  to  have  but 
little  property,  yet  the  misceUaneousness  of  their  goods, 
as  seen  while  they  are  in  process  of  moving,  is  a  very 
striking  feature  of  such  a  procession.  The  kids  and 
lambs  were  in  great  groups,  separate  from  the  sheep  and 
goats,  and,  as  usual,  were  driven  by  young  childi'en.  I 
took  pains  to  count  their  dogs,  of  which  there  were  no 
less  than  fifteen, —  enough  to  make  night  or  day  hideous 
if  one  were  to  approach  the  tents  of  these  people  sud- 
denly. Their  bundles  all  look  alike,  and  I  often  wonder 
how  each  owner  sorts  out  his  property  when  the  caravan 
reaches  its  destination.  They  may  have  some  power  of 
subtle  discrimination  which  civilized  people  do  not  pos- 
sess; for,  out  of  a  flock  of  a  thousand  goats,  each  one  ap- 
parently exactly  like  every  other,  I  have  often    seen  the 


EXPLORATION   OF  THE  JABBOK.  403 

owners  pick  out  those  that  belonged  to  them,  with  the 
same  readiness  and  certainty  that  a  mother  would  from  a 
crowd  of  children  select  her  own  offspring. 

Another  camp  of  strolling  gypsies  visited  us  here,  hut 
their  music  and  entertainments  are  generally  too  rude  to 
be  even  curious. 

This  large  theatre  was  more  than  three  hundred  feet 
from  outside  to  outside,  in  front,  and  the  thickness  of 
each  wall  was  about  ninety  feet.  This  included  the  cor- 
ridors, which  exist  in  each  waU.  The  ground  in  front 
of  the  theatre  was  paved.  The  arena  is  now  filled  with 
dehris.  Probably  if  this  were  removed,  some  inscriptions 
or  relics  of  value  would  be  discovered.  The  Arabs  call 
the  theatre  Mala'abi,  and  say  it  is  "where  the  girls  used 
to  play."  There  are  sixteen  seats  in  the  upper  tier,  not 
counting  the  floor  of  the  platform  at  the  top.  The 
second  tier  has  fourteen  seats,  and  there  appear  to  have 
been  ten  or  twelve  in  the  lower  tier,  but  the  accumula- 
tion of  dehris  prevents  the  number  in  this  tier  from 
being  determined  accurately. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 
A  War-Cloud. 

The  Ammonite  country.  Its  important  towns.  The  Jazer  plateau. 
Extensive  preparations  for  a  battle.  Thousands  of  tents.  Cut  off 
from  Es  Salt  and 'Arak  el  Emir.  The  Abbad  ''not  fair  fighters." 
Wady  Bahath.  The  Shittim  plain.  Our  men  are  afraid.  Noise 
a  stimulus  to  courage.  Helping  a  wounded  Ai'ab.  Not  commis- 
sioned as  a  surgeon.  Wheat  and  barley  injured  by  a  worm. 
Kough  experience   of  oui*  men. 

Camp  on  the  Shittim  Plain,  March  28,   1877. 

THE  whole  region  south  of  Amman,  and  also  north 
and  west  of  it,  abounds  in  ruins.  Amman  itself 
was  the  chief  city  of  the  children  of  Amnion  fifteen 
centuries  before  Christ,  and  it  was  also  the  chief  city  in 
that  section  of  the  country  in  Roman  times.  The  Jazer 
region  to  the  west  of  Amman,  which  the  children  of 
Reuben  and  Gad  asked  for  because  it  was  a  place  for 
cattle  (Numb,  xxxii.),  would  be  prized  by  agricultural 
people  in  any  part  of  the  world.  It  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at  that  the  two  and  a  half  tribes  were  per- 
fectly willing  to  stay  on  this  side  of  the  Jordan.  Judea 
has  no  land  to  compare  with  it,  neither  has  Samaria, 
except   in    very    limited    portions.     The   surface    of   the 


A    WAR-CLOUD.  405 

country  is  slightly  rolling,  but  the  fields  are  broad  and 
comparatively  free  from  stone.  Here  common  Arab 
trails  broaden  out  into  fine  roads.  Here  are  rich  past- 
ure lands  and  luxuriant  fields  of  wheat  and  barley,  and 
the  ignorant  Bedawin  who  own  the  soil  point  with  pride 
to  the  green  acres  that  are  spread  out  beneath  the  sun. 
Among  the  important  ruins  in  this  section,  after  Amman, 
are  Safut  in  the  north,  Yajuz  and  Jubeiha  in  the  middle, 
Rusaifeh  to  the  east  of  Amman,  and  Sar  in  the  west. 
These  are  only  a  few  of  the  scores  which  exist.  Rawnak 
also  deserves  to  be  mentioned,  because  of  its  singular 
round  tower,  Khurbet  Sar  being  the  only  other  place 
which  has  one  of  a  similar  character,  the  latter,  however, 
being  square  in  form,  but  of  the  same  material. 

Some  portions  of  the  western  edge  of  this  plateau, 
including  the  brow  of  the  mountain,  are  heavily  wooded. 
With  care,  fine  oak  forests  could  be  made  to  cover  many 
of  these  hills  that  are  now  entirely  destitute  of  trees. 

Sar  we  made  to  be  three  thousand  four  hundred  feet 
above  the  sea  level. 

On  the  Jazer  plateau  the  weather  was  very  warm  at 
mid-day,  but  in  the  afternoon  there  were  clouds,  and  the 
evening  was  mild  and  delightful.  The  two  ponds  or  little 
lakes  near  Jazer  form  striking  and  attractive  objects  in  the 
landscape. 

While  near  Safut  with  my  guide,  one  day  recently, 
we  came  upon  some  rough-looking  young  men.  They 
approached  us  with  clubs  and  hatchets,  and  evidently 
intended  to  rob  us.  The  Arab  with  me  took  my  gun  and 
threatened  to  shoot  them,  whereupon  they  left.  All  he  would 
say  about  them,  however,  was  that  they  were  bad  fellows. 

From  Sar,  a  portion  of  the  Dead  Sea  is  visible,  and 
Wady  esh  Shita  descends  rapidly  on  the  south.  The  low 
hiUs  seen  in  the  north-west  are  well  wooded. 


406  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

The  great  plateau  north  and  east  of  Sar  is  covered  with 
black  tents.  The  trouble  already  detailed  seems  to  be 
growing  worse.  Reinforcements  from  the  Hameideh  in 
the  south  are  expected,  and  the  preparations  look  like 
war.  The  Beni  Abbad  are  described  as  treacherous  people, 
and  not  fair  fighters,  because  they  shoot  from  ambush. 
The  talk  among  the  great  numbers  of  Arabs  who  flocked 
about  our  tents  at  Sar  was  simply  immense,  and  if  the 
expected  battle  should  bear  any  proportion  to  it,  it  would 
be  memorable  in  the  annals  of  nations.  At  this  place  we 
seemed  pretty  thoroughly  cut  off  from  the  routes  and  work 
we  had  planned ;  not  that  any  of  the  tribes  now  gathering 
would  molest  us,  but  our  Arabs  would  not  go  with  us. 
Communication  with  Es  Salt  was  entirely  out  of  the  ques- 
tion, and  it  was  likewise  impossible  to  reach  'Arak  el  Emir. 
Our  friends  agreed  to  go  with  us  to  the  Jordan  valley  by  a 
southern  and  circuitous  route.  We  followed  the  road  to 
^'aur  some  distance,  and  then,  by  a  cross-trail  leading  past 
Tubaka  el  Fauk  and  Tubaka  el  Taht,  we  dropped  down 
into  Wady  Bahath  and  reached  the  Shittim  plain  by  way 
of  Wady  Kef  rein.  But  on  this  route  our  men  were 
constantly  afraid  of  faUing  into  an  ambush,  and  every 
time  the  report  of  a  gun  was  heard  they  would  stop,  until 
by  examination  they  had  satisfied  themselves  that  the  way 
was  clear,  and  that  it  was  safe  to  proceed.  On  such 
occasions,  it  is  difficult  to  determine  what  the  real 
amount  of  danger  is.  For  my  own  part,  I  have  always 
been  sceptical  about  the  danger,  especially  when  in  the 
presence  of  our  men,  or  of  the  Arabs.  Still,  there  was 
a  possibility  that  we  might  come  suddenly  upon  men 
secreted  in  the  bushes  or  rocks,  and  receive  a  volley 
before  we  had  time  to  make  known  who  we  were. 

At  the  point  where  we  struck  Wady  Bahath,  the  wady 
itself  is  very  deep,  and  the  high  hills  or  mountains  on 


A    WAR-CLOUD.  407 

either  side  are  precipitous.  The  hills  and  mountain-sides 
are,  however,  covered  with  trees,  and  along  the  valley 
there  is  much  grass.  We  followed  a  trail  which  wound 
down  the  north  side,  and  led  to  a  fine  fountain  of  clear, 
sweet  water,  from  which  proceeds  a  large  stream.  A 
short  distance  below,  on  the  left  bank,  was  a  ruin  called 
El  Ba'ala,  formed  of  large  squared  stones,  near  which  is  a 
flouring  mill.  The  ruin  may  be  of  Roman  origin,  yet,  in 
that  case,  the  stones  would  be  of  unusual  size  even  for 
their  best  work.  Wady  esh  Shita,  coming  from  the  north- 
east, joins  Wady  Bahath  at  this  mill,  and  below  the 
junction  the  name  Bahath  is  preserved.  Several  springs 
contribute  their  share  to  help  swell  the  stream  in  this 
wady,  and  about  them  are  marshes  and  thickets  of  canes 
and  reeds.  About  one  hour  below  the  ruin  Ba'ala,  Wady 
N'aur  comes  in  from  a  southerly  direction,  and  half  an 
hour  beyond  that  point  Wady  Sir  joins  Bahath  from 
the  north.  Soon  after  the  junction  of  these  two  great 
wadies.  Sir  and  N'aur,  the  name  Bahath  is  changed  to 
Kefrein,  and  the  latter  is  preserved  as  far  as  the  Jordan 
valley. 

The  Shittim  plain  furnishes  a  good  illustration  of  how 
easily  a  person  may  be  deceived  here  as  to  distances.  If 
one  not  familiar  with  it  were  to  approach  it  first  from  the 
eastern  hills,  he  would  say  he  could  cross  it  in  twenty 
minutes  at  least,  going  only  at  a  walk.  Having  been  over 
it  in  many  directions,  I  know  that  it  would  be  impossible 
to  do  this.  On  one  occasion  I  tried  it,  going  in  the  direc- 
tion now  indicated.  From  the  eastern  edge  of  the  plain  we 
went  at  a  fast  walk,  and  some  of  the  way  a  half  trot,  and 
it  was  just  two  hours  before  we  reached  the  plain  of  the 
Lower  Ghor.  Josephus  says  that  Abila,  probably  situated 
at  Kefrein,  was  sixty  stadia  east  ef  the  Jordan.  The  same 
discrepancy  between  real  and  apparent   distance  is  even 


408  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

more  noticeable  in  going  across  this  plain  from  north  to 
south.  From  the  vicinity  of  Nimrin  the  Dead  Sea  does 
not  appear  to  be  far  away,  yet  one  would  be  four  hours  in 
reaching  it,  going  in  a  straight  line. 

While  at  Khurljet  Sar,  and  after  leaving  it,  I  was 
interested  in  the  efforts  our  men  put  forth  to  appear  brave 
and  indifferent  to  danger.  The  air  was  full  of  rumors  of 
the  worst  kind,  while  before  them  on  the  great  plateau 
were  thousands  of  tents,  and  real  preparations  for  war 
were  going  on.  Instead  of  the  usual  trifling  and  camp 
nonsense,  the  talk  was  about  guns,  pistols,  our  "  seven- 
teen-shooter,"  and  about  the  speed  of  our  horses.  They 
indulged  further  in  an  unusual  amount  of  shouting,  and 
especially  of  singing,  unless  at  times  when  they  feared  an 
ambush.  I  have  always  noticed  that  these  people  sing 
and  shout  a  great  deal  when  they  are  trjdng  to  make 
believe  that  they  are  not  afraid. 

While  we  were  at  Khurbet  Sar,  one  of  our  Arabs  urged 
me  to  go  to  the  tents  of  his  friends  somewhere  among  the 
vast  number  before  us  on  the  plateau,  and  see  a  sick  man. 
As  near  as  I  could  learn,  the  person  had  been  wounded. 
My  companion  was  not  well  that  day,  and  remained  in 
camp.  I  went  alone  to  see  what  the  trouble  was,  and  to 
render  any  assistance  if  it  should  be  in  my  power  to  do  so. 
We  wound  about  among  the  tents  for  some  time,  and  I 
saw  mounted  men,  spears,  hatchets,  flinf-lock  pistols,  and 
long  smooth-bore  guns,  and  other  weapons  of  Arab  war- 
fare, ill  abundance.  The  man  whom  I  was  taken  to  see  I 
found  had  been  wounded  in  the  neck  by  a  small  shot  or 
slug,  and  the  wound  was  painful.  He  was  in  one  apart- 
ment of  the  tent  where  I  should  think  extra  baggage  was 
stored.  At  all  events  there  was  a  quantity  of  bedding 
piled  up  about  him,  and  as  the  place  was  closed,  and  thi*ee 
or  four  persons  were  sitting  on  the  bedding  about  the  sick 


A    WAB- CLOUD.  409 

man,  the  air  was  stifling,  and  it  seemed  to  me  that  even 
animals  would  die  in  such  a  place.  We  gave  the  man  fresh 
air  at  once,  and,  although  the  weather  was  warm,  he  seemed 
to  be  revived.  I  cleaned  and  bathed  his  wound,  showed 
the  people  how  to  do  it,  and  explained  to  them  that  it 
must  be  dressed  every  day,  but  I  had  no  means  of  extract- 
ing the  baU.  I  told  them  I  did  not  think  the  wound  would 
prove  fatal,  which  assurance  seemed  to  relieve  them  all. 
The  American  Palestine  Society  had  not  commissioned  me 
to  act  as  surgeon  in  Arab  wars,  yet,  except  in  the  small- 
pox case,  both  my  companion  and  myself  rendered  such 
assistance  to  the  wounded,  and  also  to  the  sick  or  suffering 
Bedawin,  as  we  were  able,  consistently  with  the  time  and 
means  at  our  disposal. 

"While  most  of  the  wheat  in  the  Jazer  region  looked  very 
promising,  yet  I  noticed  farther  to  the  south  a  few  fields 
that  appeared  as  if  the  heads  and  tops  of  the  stalks  had 
been  withered  and  turned  black  by  a  frost.  I  asked  the 
Arabs  the  cause  of  it,  and  they  replied,  "  Duda."  This 
appearance  is  caused  by  a  worm  ("duda"),  which  sometimes 
ruins  the  crop.  At  this  very  time  the  wheat  and  barley 
fields  about  Jerusalem  are  suffering,  I  am  told,  from  want 
of  rain. 

We  had  property  at  Es  Salt,  and  some  of  our  men  volun- 
teered to  go  and  attempt  to  bring  it  to  our  camp.  As  we 
were  well  known  to  all  the  tribes  in  that  region,  I  did  not 
anticipate  any  trouble,  although  the  Beni  Abbad,  the  Beni 
Hassan,  the  Adwan,  and  two  or  three  other  tribes  were,  as 
I  have  ah'eady  explained,  gathering  for  war.  The  Beni 
Abbad  had  crowded  up  and  filled  the  main  valleys  leading 
from  the  Jordan  to  Es  Salt  and  Amman,  in  order  to  cut  off 
their  enemies.  But  our  men  were  reluctant  to  expose 
themselves  to  any  danger,  and  a  Syrian  would  not  be  true 
to  his  nature  if  he  failed  to  urge  an  excuse  when  there  was 
18 


410  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

any  possible  ground  for  doing  so.  A  small  bribe,  how- 
ever, made  the  danger  seem  less  to  some  of  them,  who 
soon  became  willing  to  risk  their  lives.  In  fact,  they  were 
so  devoted  to  us  that  they  would  face  any  danger,  and 
almost  welcome  death  itself,  on  our  account.  To  this  kind 
of  talk  we  were  accustomed,  and  it  is  certainly  pleasanter 
to  have  men  talk  in  this  way  than  the  opposite.  Our  men 
brought  the  property  to  camp  safely,  but  it  cost  them  hard 
work,  and  as  two  or  three  loads  had  to  be  extricated  fi-om 
a  cluster  of  thorn-bushes,  where  they  had  tumbled  after  the 
animals  had  fallen,  the  men  had  their  flesh  and  clothing 
badly  torn,  and  they  returned  to  camp  terribly  cross  and 
tired. 


CHAPTER  XXXIL 

Condition  of   the  Country. 

Moving  Arabs.  Unfortunate  donkey.  Partridges.  Jericho  to  Jeru- 
salem by  night.  Telegraph  for  instructions.  Accidental  death. 
Careless  use  of  fire-arms.  Arehteology  in  Jerusalem.  Call  on  a 
rabbi.  Dirty  streets.  Indifference  of  the  government.  German 
Consul  and  expedition  to  Moal).  Natural  history  collection.  Live 
ostrich  from  Arabia.  Conversation  about  the  dangers  east  of  the 
Jordan.  Moslems  with  blood  on  fire.  Terrible  suffering.  Why  is 
there  not  a  revolution  ?  Francolin  sent  to  Dr.  ChapUn  by  my  com- 
panion.    Sheikh  Fellah's  letter  to  the  president  of  oiu-  society. 

Camp  opposite  Jericho  Ford,  "Wednesday,  April  4,  1877. 

ON  the  west  of  the  Jordan,  scattered  among  the  mud- 
hills  from  the  river  to  the  plain  of  the  Upper  Ghor, 
was  a  tribe  of  Arabs  that  had  come  from  the  region 
of  Gaza.  They  had  caused  some  trouble  there,  and  the 
government  had  sent  them  to  the  east  of  the  river.  The 
government  takes  no  pains  to  reform  or  improve  these 
tribes,  and  removing  them  from  one  section  to  another  is 
only  shifting  the  burden,  so  far  as  the  settled  people  of 
the  country  are  concerned.  It  is  like  shifting  the  load  of 
a  mule  that  has  a  sore  back.  They  were  strung  along 
among  the  hiUs,  a  strange,  motley,  grotesque  procession. 
They  were   civil  to  us,  and,  in  fact,  Arabs  on  the  road 


412  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN, 

always  have  been.  The  most  touching  sight  was  that  of 
a  poor  sick  donkey,  left  far  behind  to  perish.  We  tried 
to  urge  him  along,  but  he  was  too  weak  •to  walk.  He  was 
evidently  aware  of  the  situation,  for  he  stood  looking 
in  the  direction  of  the  procession  and  his  companions, 
all  of  which  were  far  out  of  his  sight,  with  his  great 
fan-like  ears  extended  forward,  the  picture  of  anxiety  and 
despair. 

The  road  from  the  Lower  Ghor  to  Jericho  was  swarm- 
ing with  what  are  called  Dead  Sea  partridges.  They  are 
about  the  color  of  the  earth,  and  in  the  dusky  morning 
light  were  very  tame.  We  were  anxious  to  reach  Jeru- 
salem as  early  as  possible,  and  could  not  stop  to  shoot 
them. 

In  hot  weather,  the  ride  from  Jericho  to  Jerusalem  is  a 
long  and  tedious  one.  I  have  been  over  the  route  in 
spring,  summer,  autumn,  and  winter.  Once  I  made  the 
journey  in  the  night.  Aside  from  the  risk,  that  was  the 
pleasantest  of  all.  The  barren  hills  stood  up  in  the  dim 
light  like  great  temples,  castles,  and  cathedrals,  and 
above  them  the  sky  was  brilliant  with  stars.  A  few  wild 
animals  and  night-birds  were  awake,  but  what  was  of  most 
interest  to  us,  the  robbers  were  all  asleep, —  at  least  they 
did  not  cross  our  track.  The  road  for  much  of  the  dis- 
tance is  cut  in  the  hmestone  rock,  and  the  reflection  of  the 
sun  from  this  dirty  white,  heated  surface  is  very  painful  to 
the  eyes. 

The  most  tedious  and  anxious  journey,  however,  that  I 
made  over  this  road  was  when  I  took  my  sick  companion 
to  Jerusalem,  as  described  in  a  previous  chapter.  The  heat 
then  was  great,  made  doubly  trying  by  a  tenible  sirocco. 

I  telegraphed  from  Jerusalem  to  Beirut  for  instructions 
respecting  my  work,  and  while  waiting  for  a  reply,  I  had 
the  pleasure  of  meeting  Rev.  Dr.  Philip  Schaff,  of  New 


CONDITION   OF  THE   COUNTRY.  413 

York,  who  had  just  come  with  his  party  from  Sinai. 
Am.ong  the  gentlemen  with  him  was  Rev.  William  P. 
Alcott,  a  Congregational  clergyman,  whose  proficiency  in 
geology  enabled  him  to  make  many  valuable  observations 
on  the  rocks  and  fossils .  of  the  country  he  had  passed 
through.  They  were  treated  a  little  roughly  at  the 
mosque  in  Hebron,  and  the  fact  was  at  once  exaggerated 
by  the  natives  into  a  hairbreadth  escape  fi*om  an  infu- 
riated and  fanatical  mob.  I  went  with  Dr.  Schaff  about 
Jerusalem  ;  and,  in  fact,  acted  as  his  guide  and  interpreter 
on  a  visit  to  Bethany,  the  Mount  of  Olives,  and  elsewhere. 
Dr.  Chaplin,  upon  whom  I  called  in  the  evening,  spoke  of 
the  favor  with  which  my  work  east  of  the  Jordan  was 
regarded  in  England,  and  said  that  my  letters  in  the 
"  Athenaeum  "  had  attracted  much  attention.  He  and  his 
family  had  just  returned  from  a  visit  of  ten  months  in 
Europe.  This  gentleman's  duties  here  ai*e  very  arduous, 
and  after  years  of  labor  he  not  only  needed,  but  deserved, 
the  rest  which  he  has  recently  taken. 

While  at  Jericho,  or  near  there,  I  saw  the  tents  of  a 
party  of  Frenchmen  who  had  arrived  the  night  before. 
While  in  Jerusalem,  I  saw  the  body  of  a  man  brought  in, 
and  learned  that  one  of  the  party  referred  to  had  fallen 
from  his  horse  and  accidentally  shot  himself  with  his 
pistol.  This  sad  event  makes  me  doubly  careful  about 
fire-arms.  I  am  constantly  watching  our  men  and  caution- 
ing them  as  to  how  they  handle  their  pistols  and  guns,  and 
I  have  reproved  them  so  often  for  holding  the  muzzle  of  a 
gun,  which  they  were  examining,  towards  some  person,  that 
even  our  Syrians  and  Ai*abs  are  much  more  cautious  than 
they  were  at  first.  Loaded  guns  or  pistols  are  deadly 
weapons,  yet  men  and  boys  handle  them  as  if  they  were 
harmless  toys.  Men  are  just  as  reckless  here  about  such 
things  as  they  are  at  home. 


414  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Among  the  gentlemen  in  Jerusalem  to  whom  I  feel 
indebted  for  friendly  attentions  and  valuable  information, 
I  would  mention,  besides  Dr.  Chaplin,  Mr.  Conrad  Schick, 
an  architect  who  resides  there,  and  who  is  thorough^  ac- 
quainted with  its  topography  and  antiquities,  and  whose 
contributions  to  various  periodicals,  chiefly  German,  have 
thrown  much  light  on  various  points  connected  with 
the  Holy  Land  and  Holy  City.  Where  any  digging  is 
going  on,  or  where  old  buildings  are  removed,  he  is  on 
hand  to  observe  and  record  any  archaeological  facts  that 
may  be  disclosed. 

While  in  Jerusalem,  I  called  on  one  of  the  principal 
rabbis,  whose  acquaintance  I  had  formerly  made,  and  from 
whom  I  learned  many  facts  respecting  the  number  of 
synagogues  and  schools  in  the  city,  and  also  the  number 
of  the  Jewish  population.  It  was  with  much  difficulty 
that  I  found  his  house,  as  I  went  without  a  guide.  The 
passages  were  dark,  narrow,  and  filthy,  with  innumerable 
windings,  and  only  by  constant  inquiries  did  I  find  the 
place  at  all.  I  refer  to  this  visit  in  order  to  call  attention 
to  a  remark  which  this  rabbi  made  to  me  on  my  return. 
He  led  me  through  the  blindest  and  dirtiest  of  the  passages 
until  the  way  was  plain,  and  then  said  he  hoped  I  would 
not  consider  the  Jews  to  blame  for  the  filth  which  I  saw. 
"We  have  often,"  said  he,  "tried  to  do  something  or  get 
something  done  about  this  matter,  but  the  government 
gives  us  no  encouragement,  but  rather  the  opposite,  and 
under  such  circumstances  we  can  do  nothing." 

The  German  Consul  had  received  instructions  from  his 
government  to  visit  Moab,  and  was  making  his  plans  to 
do  so.  His  chief  object  was  to  investigate  the  subject  of 
Moabite  pottery,  about  which  so  much  has  been  said  and 
so  much  bitter  feeling  aroused.  In  fact,  the  Arabs  them- 
selves in  that  region  are  divided  into  two  parties  on  this 


CONDITION   OF  THE   COUNTRY.  415 

subject.     I  was  strongly  urged  to  accompany  the  expedi- 
tion, but  this  my  duties  did  not  permit.* 

I  visited  the  natural  history  collection  which  has  been 
recently  started  in  Jerusalem  by  foreigners,  and  which 
with  pains  might  be  made  a  large  and  valuable  one.  But 
the  object  in  which  I  was  most  interested  was  a  live  ostrich 
in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Shaprra.  The  bird  was  brought 
up  from  Arabia  when  quite  young,  by  some  Mecca  pilgrims, 
of  whom  Mr.  Shapira  obtained  it.  It  is  now  four  years  old, 
is  nearly  eight  feet  high,  and  wiU  run  like  the  wind.  It  is 
quite  dangerous,  and  will  fight  ferociously.  All  the  mem- 
bers of  Mr.  Shapira's  family,  with  the  exception  of  the 
servant-girl,  are  afraid  of  the  creature,  and  wiU  have  noth- 
ing to  do  with  it ;  of  her  alone  the  bird  stands  in  fear.  It 
was  let  out  into  an  enclosure,  thirty  yards  long,  perhaps, 
adjoining  the  house,  and  we  had  opportunity  to  witness  a 
sample  of  its  running  powers.  Half  a  dozen  of  us  were 
standing  on  the  piazza,  and  the  bird  was  at  the  other  end 
of  the  yard;  suddenly  it  started  for  us,  and  before  we 
could  get  inside  and  close  the  door  it  had  reached  us, 
and  struck  at  us  with  its  foot.  The  blow  was  a  kind  of 
horizontal  push,  hitting  the  door  fully  six  feet  above  the 
ground,  with  sufficient  violence  to  force  it  open.  Just  at 
that  moment  the  servant  appeared  around  the  corner  of 
the  house  with  her  broom,  her  only  weapon,  and  the  bird 
retreated.  It  has  now  almost  no  feathers,  and  its  bare  skin 
is  red.  It  doubtless  finds  the  winters  of  Jerusalem  severe, 
compared  with  those  of  the  region  whence  it  was  brought, 
but  in  Mr.  Shapii-a's  hands  it  is  well  cared  for,  and  is  in 
every  way  a  curiosity  worth  seeing  and  studying. 

*  His  visit,  however,  was  subsequently  made,  and  began  to  promise 
him  results,  when  it  was  cut  short  by  a  message  that  war  had  broken 
out  between  Russia  and  Turkey,  and  as  Eussian  subjects  were  to  be 
placed  under  German  protection,  his  presence  in  Jerusalem  was  needed 
at  once. 


416  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

In  travelling  in  the  country  east  of  the  Jordan  there  is 
no  doubt  considerable  danger  always,  and  this  is  especially 
true  at  the  present  time.  My  work  for  the  past  few  weeks 
has  led  me  thi-ough  some  of  the  most  important  sections 
here,  and  while  I  have  been  constantly  obliged  to  be  on  my 
guard,  I  am  certain  the  danger  is  not  so  great  as  in  Jeru- 
salem and  some  of  the  coast  towns  it  is  represented  to  be. 
A  rumor  in  this  country  is  like  a  thundercloud.  It  swells 
as  it  moves,  and  soon  becomes  black  and  threatening. 
While  in  Jerusalem  during  the  past  few  days,  I  met  Eng- 
lishmen, and  also  Americans,  who  asked  me  with  much 
anxiety :  "  Do  you  consider  it  safe  to  travel  through  the 
country  now,  either  east  or  west  of  the  Jordan  ? "  My  reply 
was :  "No ;  I  do  not  consider  it  safe,  and  I  would  not  advise 
you  to  go ;  east  of  the  Jordan  not  at  all,  and  west  of  it  only 
on  the  most  frequented  roads,  and  in  large  parties,  if  you 
can."  But  they  continued,  "  Yet  you  go  yourself."  "  Oh, 
yes.  I  do  not  hesitate  very  much.  I  attempt  at  least  to  go 
where  I  wish.  I  run  some  risks,  but  I  have  not  yet  been 
molested."  My  circumstances,  however,  are  different  from 
those  of  an  ordinary  traveller.  I  know  so  many  people  on 
both  sides  of  the  Jordan,  particularly  on  the  east  side,  and 
have  friends  among  so  many  of  the  Arab  tribes,  that  I 
should  be  safe  where  a  traveller  would  not.  There  are 
now  fanatical  Moslems  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  into 
whose  hands  it  would  not  be  safe  for  any  European  to  fall. 
A  Moslem  at  any  time  is  none  too  good,  but  a  Moslem  with 
his  blood  on  fii^e  is  a  dangerous  and  explosive  object  in  the 
presence  of  an  "  infidel."  I  refer  now  chiefly  to  such  zealots 
as  exist  in  every  city  and  Moslem  town,  some  of  whom  I 
know  would  like  only  too  well  to  get  at  the  thi'oats  of 
Christians,  whether  native  or  foreign.  I  do  not  wonder  at 
the  uneasiness  and  insecurity  which  everywhere  prevail. 
My  real  wonder  is  that  the   poor,   oppressed,  miserable 


CONDITION   OF  THE   COUNTRY.  417 

inhabitants  of  this  land,  both  those  of  the  towns  and  those 
of  the  desert,  do  not  rise  and  massacre  every  official  that 
rides  in  the  name  of  the  Turkish  government.  The  country 
itself,  and  all  the  people  of  it,  are  suffering  because  of  the 
present  state  of  affairs.  Hotels  are  empty,  dragomans  get 
nothing  to  do,  merchants  sell  no  goods,  banks  transact  but 
little  business,  travellers  do  not  dare  visit  the  country,  and 
people  everywhere  are  in  suspense,  expecting  that  their 
worst  fears  may  at  any  moment  become  a  terrible  reality. 

In  the  plain  land  of  the  Lower  Ghor,  near  the  Jericho 
ford,  where  our  camp  was  moved  from  the  Shittim  plain, 
francolin  abound,  and  Van  Dyck  was  successful  in  secur- 
ing a  good  number.  The  morning  on  which  we  parted 
with  our  Arabs,  Fellah  was  to  visit  Jerusalem,  and, 
besides  letters,  my  companion  gave  him  three  of  these 
beautiful  birds  to  carry  to  Dr.  Chaplin,  who,  we  learned 
later,  received  them  safely  a  few  hours  after  we  had  bid 
our  Bedawin  friends  good-by. 

But,  before  taking  final  leave  of  us,  this  sheikh,  who 
is  a  brother  of  the  famous  Goblan,  of  the  Adwan  Arabs, 
asked  many  questions  about  our  Society,  and  as  to  the 
probability  of  our  returning  again  to  carry  on  the  work. 
He  had  inquired  before  abovit  the  president  of  the  Society, 
and  expressed  a  desire  to  send  him  some  message  indic- 
ative of  his  good  feeling  towards  us.  The  following  letter 
was  dictated  by  him  and  written  down  by  myself  : 

"  Camp  of  the  American  Exploring  Party,   opposite 
Jericho  Ford,  April  4,    1877. 

"  Rev.   Roswell  D.   Hitchcock,   D.  D. 

"  Z)ear   Sir:    I   have   had   considerable   experience   with   the   mem- 
bers   of    your    exploring    parties,    and    have    tried    to    serve    them 
faithfully  while   they   have   been   in   our   country.     I    have    enabled 
18* 


418  EAST   OF   THE  JORDAN. 

them  to  labor  in  peace  and  security  witliout  being  interfered  with 
or  molested  by  any  of  my  own  people  or  by  any  of  the  neigh- 
boring tribes.  I  have  often  heard  of  you,  and  wish  you  could 
visit  our  country  yourself.  Every  road  would  be  open  to  you  and 
every  tent  would  offer  you  a  welcome.  I  am  sorry  that  Dr. 
Merrill  and  Mr.  Van  Dyck  cannot  now  go  to  Kerak  and  places 
south  of  the  Arnon.  If  they  ever  return,  as  I  hope,  and  as  they 
expect  to  do,  I  shall  in  future  guard  and  protect  them,  and  try 
to   serve   them  in   every  way. 

"Yours   respectfully, 

"  Sheikh  Fellah  el  Fadil  en  Nimr." 
[His   seal.] 

This  letter  of  Sheikh  Fellah  was  pubhshed  in  the 
Boston  "  Daily  Advertiser  "  of  May  24,  1877,  and  also  in 
the  New  York  "  Evangelist "  of  the  same  date,  and  the 
editor  of  the  last-named  paper  remarks  upon  it  as  fol- 
lows :  "  The  old  sheikh  may  well  send  such  a  salutation 
to  his  best  friend  in  America, — one  who  means  no  ill 
by  invading  his  territory,  but  who  would  do  him  good 
and  not  evil  all  the  days  of  his  life.  Though  separated 
by  thousands  of  miles  of  ocean,  the  president  of  our 
Palestine  Exploration  Society  is  doing  a  great  deal  for 
him  and  for  his  people,  by  the  pains  he  takes  to  have 
their  country  thoroughly  explored,  its  historical  sites 
ascertained,  and  the  land  which  has  so  rich  a  history 
restored  to  its  place  in  the  regards  of  the  Christian 
world,  as  one  in  which,  on  account  of  its  sacred  associa- 
tions, we  feel  the  deepest  interest,  and  with  which  we 
have  the  strongest  bonds  of  sympathy.  Dr.  Hitchcock 
is  untiring  in  this  work.  *  *  *  By  and  by  he  may 
have  his  reward.  Perhaps  when  the  work  is  done  he 
will  accept  the  sheikh's  invitation,  and  visit  Palestine 
once  more.  Then  it  will  be  indeed  a  very  strange  and 
peculiar  pleasure  to  find  that  his  name  is  well  known  in  the 
desert,  and  to  receive  a  warm  welcome  from  the  wild  Arabs, 
and  to  lie  down  and  sleep  peacefidly  under  their  tents." 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 
A    Surprise    Party. 

Settling  with  our  Arabs.  Their  pledges.  Promise  of  a  fine  mare. 
Heartiness  in  their  expressions  of  devotion.  Up  the  valley.  No 
water,  and  barren  soil.  Hares.  Traces  of  Arab  camps.  Locusts. 
The  Lower  Ghor.  Surprised  by  Arabs.  Profuse  explanations.  A 
peace  offering.  Wild  boars  in  the  wheat  fields.  Game  about  Tell 
Damieh.     Eoman  bridge.     An  Arab  philologist.     Hot  weather. 

Camp  at  Tell  Damieh,  in  the  Lower  Ghor, 

April   4,    1877. 

AFTER  breakfast  we  settled  with  our  Arabs,  who 
regretted  our  departure  and  pledged  to  us  their 
eternal  friendship.  We  then  went  north-east  about  one 
and  a  half  miles,  to  Tell  Ghurba,  two  of  the  sheikhs 
accompanying  us  to  that  point.  This  mound  has  a  few 
ruins  on  it,  and  a  few  piles  of  stones  over  some  graves. 
Probably  the  scattered  stones  are  all  gravestones,  or 
piles  of  gravestones,  that  have  been  neglected.  There  is 
a  good  view  from  this  mound  of  the  valley  south  to  the 
Dead  Sea,  and  of  the  Tells  er  Rama  and  Kefrein,  also 
east  to  Nimnn,  and  north  up  the  valley,  as  weU  as  of 
the  Jericho  plain  across  the  river. 

While    taking    angles    and    waiting   for    our  camp    to 
come  up,  our  sheikhs  went  over  their  list  of  pledges  of 


420  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

friendship,  in  which  I  have  no  reason  to  suppose  they 
were  insincere,  for  they  had  uniformly  treated  us  well, 
even  at  times  when  we  were  entirely  in  their  power. 
One  of  the  sheikhs  offered  me  his  fine  mare  as  a  present, 
which  I  could  not  accept.  He  then  promised  to  raise  a 
foal  for  me,  so  that  on  my  return  I  might  receive  from 
him  a  beautiful  animal,  of  which  I  should  be  proud. 
These  men  wished  us  many  blessings  and  unbounded 
prosperity.  They  sent  kind  messages  to  my  wife  and 
mother  in  America.  One  cannot  fail  to  be  impressed 
with  the  apparent  heartiness  of  these  wild  men  in  their 
expressions  of  "devotion  to  their  friends. 

At  last  the  parting  was  over,  and  we  went  on  our  way 
up  the  valley  without  Arab  guide  or  escort.  Between 
Wady  Nimrin  and  the  Zerka  or  Jabbok,  the  soil  is  barren. 
South  of  the  Zerka,  irrigating  canals,  leading  the  water 
from  that  stream,  extend  several  miles,  and  here,  during 
som€  years,  one  may  find  beautiful  fields  of  wheat. 

The  valley  is  level,  containing  some  shrubs  and  numer- 
ous alkali  deposits,  i^lthough  it  is  destitute  of  living- 
streams,  it  is  crossed  in  certain  places  by  ravines  whose 
beds  are  composed  of  sand  and  worn  rocks,  and  along 
which  there  are  occasionally  a  few  bushes.  Water  is  the 
life  of  this  soil.  Only  water  is  needed  to  cover  these 
barren  plains  with  a  rank  vegetation. 

We  started  a  number  of  hares  as  we  passed  along,  but 
as  our  dogs  were  lame,  and  our  time  was  precious,  we  did 
not  give  them  chase. 

South  of  the  Zerka,  scattered  over  a  distance  of  several 
miles,  we  passed  twenty  or  more  places  where  Arabs  had 
camped  during  the  winter  months.  They  had  been  gone 
some  weeks,  having  migrated  to  other  sections.  StiU, 
without  the  debris  of  various  kinds,  the  usual  odor  was 
sufficient  evidence  that  they  had  been  there. 


A   SUMPEISE  PARTY.  421 

Here,  on  the  Lower  Zerka,  I  have  been  interested  in  the 
swarms  of  locusts  wliich  we  have  seen,  and  which  at  one 
time  ahnost  darkened  the  sun.  I  saw  more  in  the  region 
between  Sar  and  Hasban,  and  I  hear  that  in  the  Hauran 
they  have  appeared  in  great  numbers.  The  Arabs  tell  me 
that  these  are  not  specially  dangerous,  but  that  they  lay 
eggs,  from  which  the  destructive  locusts  come.  I  thought 
it  would  be  an  easy  matter  to  catch  them,  but  after  trjdng 
a  dozen  times  and  failing  to  get  even  one,  I  became  aware 
that  it  was  more  difficult  than  I  had  supposed. 

In  four  hours  after  leaving  Tell  Ghurba,  we  were  on  the 
edge  of  the  plain  of  the  Upper  Ghor,  and  in  forty  minutes 
had  descended  into  the  Lower  Ghor,  and  reached  Tell 
Damieh,  where  we  camped.  The  Lower  Ghor  at  this  point 
is  a  fertile  valley  about  one  mile  long  by  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  wide,  and  covered  with  wheat  fields. 

Our  lunch  was  spread  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Zerka, 
and  we  began  to  eat,  very  soon  to  be  joined  by  company 
that  we  did  not  expect  or  desire.  Suddenly  thirty,  or 
forty  Arabs,  each  armed  with  a  long  gun,  emerged  from 
the  bushes  that  lined  the  stream,  and  before  we  had 
time  even  to  rise  to  our  feet,  the  dark  swarm  was  upon 
us.  There  was  no  time  to  deliberate,  or  to  make  the  best 
plan  of  action.  My  companion  put  his  hand  on  our  guns 
to  prevent  their  being  stolen,  while  I  tried  to  gather  up  the 
cloth  on  which  our  lunch  was  spread.  The  odds  were 
against  us,  if  recourse  must  be  had  to  fighting,  but  in  a 
moment  the  fright  was  over  and  the  danger  passed.  The 
level  place  where  we  were  eating  was  only  about  three 
yards  by  six  in  extent,  and  we  were  under  the  bank,  so 
that  those  who  crossed  the  stream  above  jumped  down  upon 
us,  while  those  who  crossed  where  we  were  sprang  directly 
upon  us  from  the  stones  in  the  stream,  and  for  a  few 
seconds  we  had  a  genuine  scare.     Then  came  the  explana- 


422  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

tion.  These  men  belonged  to  the  Beni  Abbad,  and  were 
on  the  lookout  for  their  enemy.  They  had  seen  our  horses 
and  animals  feeding  with  no  men  near  them,  and  supposed 
they  belonged  to  Ai-abs  whom  they  intended  to  surprise 
and  capture.  Some  of  these  very  men  had  been  in  our 
own  service  previously,  and  they  were  astonished  to  find 
that  they  had  made  a  descent,  not  upon  enemies,  but  upon 
their  own  friends  and  employers,  and  that  at  our  meal- time. 
Had  they  been  disposed,  they  could  have  bagged  us  and 
all  our  property.  As  it  was,  they  took  nothing.  We  gave 
them  some  of  our  nuts  and  oranges,  and  what  was  left  of 
our  luncheon.  They  were  profuse  in  their  apologies  for 
having  molested  us  in  such  an  unceremonious  manner,  and 
the  most  of  them  soon  left.  But  a  few  wished  to  remain 
with  us  till  the  next  day,  to  protect  and  serve  us.  The 
wheat  was  in  the  ear  and  nearly  ripe,  and  one  of  these 
men  brought  us  a  small  bundle  of  wheat-heads  which  he 
had  roasted,  and  presented  it  to  us  as  a  sort  of  peace- 
offering.  To  the  Arabs,  such  roasted  wheat-ears  are  a 
great  delicacy.* 

In  the  wheat  fields  about  Tell  Damieh,  the  wild  swine 
have  made  great  havoc.  Ravages  by  these  animals  always 
stir  a  Mohammedan's  blood.  He  hates  the  Jchamir  as 
he  does  an  "infidel,"  and  if  left  to  himself  would  no 
doubt  subject  both  to  one  and  the  same  fate,  provided  he 
could  catch  both.  One  of  the  Arabs  who  remained  with 
us  here  had  a  long  grievance  to  narrate  about  the  wild 
hogs,  and  the  damage  done  to  his  crops  by  them.  That 
very  day  he  had  found  three  young  pigs  running  about 


*  This  peace-offering  I  did  not  eat,  but  preserved  carefully,  and 
brought  it  to  America  as  a  memento  of  this  singular  episode  in  my 
life  in  the  desert.  It  has  served  a  good  purpose,  in  illustrating  to 
my  friends  the  size  of  wheat  in  the  Jordan  valley  during  the  last  of 
March  and  the  first  of  April. 


<     ( 


a  ! 

H  ] 

s  i 

9  i 

g  -i 

Z  1 


A    SUBPBISE  PARTY.  423 

in  Ms  wheat,  which  he  caught;  "and  I  was  so  angry," 
said  he,  "  that  I  dashed  them  against  a  stone,  and  then 
I  stamped  them  into  the  ground  with  my  feet." 

Francolin  were  plenty  in  this  valley,  and  towards  night 
they  began  to  call  from  ever  so  many  different  points  in 
the  plain,  and  we  succeeded  in  shooting  several.  Their  call 
is  peculiar,  and  still  more  peculiar  is  the  fact  that  if  you  go 
whence  the  call  proceeds,  even  if  you  go  stealthily  and  are 
lynx-eyed,  the  bii'd  will  have  disappeared.  They  fly  with 
a  whirring  noise  and  in  a  straight  line,  and  the  way  to 
shoot  them  is  on  the  wing.  Very  seldom  have  we  been 
able  to  shoot  them  while  they  were  at  rest  or  running  on 
the  ground. 

I  spent  the  afternoon  in  making  a  sketch  of  the  valley 
from  Tell  Damieh,  and  in  measuring  the  remains  of  the 
bridge  that  once  spanned  the  river  a  mile  to  the  west  of 
it.  This  was  on  the  high  road  from  Nablus  or  ancient 
Shechem  to  Gilead  and  the  East.  It  was  Roman  work, 
but  has  been  repaired  by  later  races.  The  stream  is  about 
one  hundi-ed  feet  wide  where  the  bridge  crossed  the  river, 
and  formerly  stone  work  could  be  seen  in  the  middle  of 
the  stream.  The  Arabs  told  me  that  they  used  to  swim  to 
it  when  they  were  boys.  The  foundations  of  the  abutment 
on  the  east  side  are  quite  perfect.  For  something  over  one 
hundred  feet  back  from  the  river  the  bridge  has  disap- 
peared. When  it  begins,  it  does  so,  as  will  be  seen  in  the 
illustration,  with  a  broken  arch,  and  runs  eastward  two 
hundred  and  eighty-nine  feet,  where  it  turns  to  the  north 
and  runs  down  an  easy  incline  to  the  level  of  the  plain. 
Its  entire  length  from  west  to  east  would  thus  be  about 
four  hundred  feet.  The  bank  on  the  east  side  of  the  river 
is  low,  and  often  overflows,  hence  the  causeway  was  neces- 
sary, and  its  erection  must  have  been  an  expensive  work. 
As  will  be  noticed,  the  arches  do  not  succeed  each  other 


424  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

at  regular  intervals.  The  reason  is  that  the  ground  is  not 
level,  and  where  it  is  high,  less  water  would  flow,  and  the 
current  would  be  less  violent,  but  where  the  ground  was 
depressed,  the  current  would  be  strong  and  rapid,  and 
more  arches  needed.  The  number  of  feet  of  the  cause- 
way actually  remaining  after  it  turns  to  the  north  is 
now  seventy-five,  but  it  originally  extended  a  good  many 
feet  farther  in  the  direction  of  the  high  land.  If  we 
count  two  broken  arches,  there  are  eight  remaining, 
and  formerly  there  must  have  been  two  or  three  more. 
Roman  civilization  demanded  the  convenience  and  luxury 
of  substantial  bridges,  and  when  some  civilized  power 
again  gets  control  of  Syria  we  may  expect  that  these  con- 
veniences will  be  restored.  The  bank  of  the  river  at  this 
point  is  covered  with  such  a  thick  jungle  of  canes  and 
bushes  that  it  was  very  difiieult  to  make  any  measure- 
ments. 

To-day  the  weather  has  been  quite  hot,  yet  at  times  the 
sun  was  covered,  and  at  intervals  there  was  a  cool  breeze ; 
cool  compared  with  the  furnace  heat  which  is  generally 
experienced  in  this  vaUey.  I  was  feverish  last  night  and 
to-day,  yet,  take  it  from  first  to  last,  my  health  has  been 
remarkably  good  in  this  inhospitable  climate. 

About  sunset  I  went  again  to  the  summit  of  Tell  Damieh, 
and  was  interested  to  hear  the  Arab  who  was  with  me 
explain  that  the  word  '^damia"  meant  what  stood  or  re- 
mained after  what  was  about  it  had  been  washed  away. 
The  connection,  if  any,  of  this  explanation  "vvith  the  origin 
of  Damieh,  the  name  of  this  mound  and  ford,  I  do  not 
pretend  to  give.  I  have  already  mentioned  that  a  few 
stones  crop  out  of  the  mound,  which  is  covered  with  broken 
pottery  and  that  a  singular  earth  platform  adjoins  it  on 
the  west. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Mahanaim   and   Pella. 

A  distressed  fellah.  Treacherous  ground.  Clearing  a  place  for  our 
tent.  Rank  weeds.  Balawni  Arabs.  Approaching  harvest-time. 
Heavy  dew.  Climate  of  the  valley.  Possibility  of  irrigating  it. 
Square  miles  of  fertile  land.  View  of  the  valley  from  Mount  Her- 
mon.  Favored  as  to  health.  Extra  care  needed.  Travellers  unac- 
quainted with  this  valley.  Site  of  Mahanaim.  Kefr  Abil.  Dolmens. 
Eoad  from  the  valley  to  Gerash.  Fish.  Work  for  a  naturalist. 
News  of  our  English,  friends.  Vegetation.  Tubakat  Fah'l  and  the 
site  of  Pella. 

Camp  at  Tell  Arb'ain,  Jordan  Valley, 
Friday,  April  6,  1877. 

nVTEW  and  unexpected  obstacles  are  liable  to  arise  at 
_i_  1  any  moment.  Yesterday  morning  we  had  to  struggle 
lialf  an  hour  with  a  man  who  did  not  wish  us  to  pass 
through  his  wheat  field.  It  is  the  universal  practice  to  go 
directly  through  a  field  rather  than  go  out  of  one's  way  to 
pass  around  it.  As  everybody  does  this,  no  one  objects. 
This  particular  field  was  not  twenty  yards  wide  at  the  point 
where  we  wished  to  go  through  it,  and  besides,  there  was  a 
path  there  already.  Yet  the  owner  acted  like  a  madman  in 
his  frantic  efforts  to  prevent  our  advance.  He  shouted  and 
gesticulated,  tore  his  clothes,  wept  and  begged.  He  grasped 
our  horses  by  the  neck,  and  it  appeared  as  if  he  were 


426  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

going  to  throw  himself  beneath  their  feet.  He  was  poor. 
This  field  was  his  aU.  He  would  be  ruined  if  we  passed 
through  it.  His  children  would  starve.  Heaven  would 
pursue  us  with  vengeance  for  our  cruelty ;  and  more  to 
the  same  effect.  Then  he  suddenly  took  a  new  tack.  We 
were  noble  men.  Our  compassion  was  gi-eat.  Heaven  had 
blessed  us  with  generous  hearts.  We  would  help  rather  than 
injure  the  poor.  At  last  one  of  our  men  gave  him  a  small 
present,  and  the  way  was  open.  We  passed  through  the 
wheat  field  by  the  path  already  mentioned  without  ruining 
the  owner  or  bringing  starvation  upon  his  children.  It 
may  be  asked  why  the  present  was  not  offered  in  the  first 
place.  It  was  offered,  but  the  man  refused  it.  He  did  not 
accept  it  at  once,  because  he  was  an  Arab,  and  it  would 
not  have  been  consistent  with  the  Arab  character  to 
have  done  so. 

We  passed  up  the  valley  of  the  Zerka  for  about  three 
miles,  on  the  north  side  of  the  stream,  and  then  ascended  to 
the  plateau  or  plain  of  the  Upper  Ghor,  and  went  north, 
passing  Tell  el  Munta,  Tell  Atwal,  leaving  Tell  Deir  'Alia 
at  our  right.  At  Tell  el  Mizar  we  made  a  detour  to 
avoid  a  wheat  field,  not  because  it  is  wrong  in  Arab-land 
to  pass  through  one,  but  because  it  had  been  recently 
irrigated,  and  our  animals  would  have  sunk  in  it  like  a 
stone  in  water.  We  passed  the  tomb  of  Abu  Obeideh, 
and  at  twelve  o'clock  stopped  just  north  of  Wady  'Ajlun 
for  lunch.  Where  this  wady  leaves  the  hiUs  there  is  a  large 
ruin  called  Fagaris,  or  Fakaris.  The  wady  itself  is  some- 
times called  by  this  name,  and  besides  Wady  'Ajlun, 
Wady  Kefrenji  is  also  heard  as  the  name  of  the  valley. 
At  2.15  P.  M.,  six  hours  and  thirty  minutes  fi-om  Tell 
Damieh,  we  camped  at  Wady  Yabis,  near  our  old  camping- 
ground  of  last  year.  The  weeds  here  were  as  high  as  our 
shoulders,  and  we  had  to  clear  a  place  for  our  camp  some- 


MAHANAIM  AND  PELLA.  427 

what  as  a  settler  in  tlie  far  West  does  for  his  cabin.  It 
need  hardly  be  said  that  such  a  location  conld  not  be  a 
healthy  one.  Below  us,  in  the  valley,  was  a  large  camp  of 
the  Balawni  Arabs  ;  besides  these  we  saw  but  few  people, 
and  those  were  mostly  men  engaged  in  watering  or  guard- 
ing their  wheat  fields.  Some  of  the  wheat  fields  about  this 
point,  and  also  others  which  we  passed  yesterday,  were 
very  extensive,  and  the  crop  promises  to  be  a  fine  one.  The 
owners,  or  the  fellahin  who  do  the  work  in  any  given 
wheat  field,  watch  its  growth  with  the  vitmost  solicitude. 
The  water  is  let  on  from  the  large  canals,  and  led  to  all 
parts  of  the  field  in  smaller  ones,  and  the  entire  surface  is 
covered  with  water.  The  soil  is  of  such  a  nature  that  a 
large  stream  is  needed  for  this  purpose,  and  when  the 
ground  is  once  saturated,  passing  over  it  with  animals  is 
impossible ;  hence,  on  more  than  one  occasion,  one  or  an- 
other of  the  party  has  been  completely  mired,  and  while 
his  animal  was  floundering  his  way  back  to  firm  earth 
again,  a  man,  or  several  men,  would  be  seen  at  a  short 
distance  shouting  to  us  in  the  most  violent  manner,  and 
one  who  did  not  understand  them  would  suppose  they 
were  threatening  us  for  trespassing  upon  their  wheat  field. 
But  that  was  not  the  trouble.  They  were  trying  to  tell  us 
that  the  ground  was  soft ;  that  it  was  impossible  to  go 
through  the  field,  and  that  we  must  pass  around  it  if  we 
would  avoid  serious  trouble  from  the  mire. 

What  I  have  said  about  the  common  practice  of  passing 
through  wheat  fields  ought,  perhaps,  to  have  been  limited 
to  the  early  or  middle  period  of  the  growth  of  the  crop ; 
for,  when  the  heads  begin  to  fill  and  become  heavy,  great 
damage  would  be  done  the  grain  by  riding  through  it. 
In  general,  there  is  much  more  license  in  this  respect  in 
the  fields  which  belong  to  the  desert  Arabs  than  in  those 
which  are  neai*  villages. 


428  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Some  of  the  fields  that  we  have  seen  will  be  ready  for 
harvesting  by  the  third  week  in  April. 

We  passed  over  gi-ound  yesterday  and  to-day  which  last 
year  was  covered  with  wheat  as  fine  as  any  now  within  our 
sight,  but  which  at  present  is  barren,  and  as  hard  as  a 
pavement.  One  needs  to  see  this  land  under  cultivation  to 
be  convinced  of  its  amazing  fertility.  These  vast  fields  of 
green  are  beautiful  now,  but  they  will  present  a  much  finer 
sight  two  or  three  weeks  later,  at  harvest-time. 

Now  no  stones  appear  in  the  fields,  and  on  soil  where 
they  literally  touch  each  other  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
wheat  covers  all  deformities.  This  remark,  however,  is 
more  applicable  to  the  hill  country  than  to  the  fields  in 
the  Jordan  valley,  which  for  the  most  part  are  free  from 
stones. 

I  am  reminded  of  what  I  have  before  observed,  that 
one  may  pass  along  this  valley  and  not  be  aware  of  the 
extensive  ruins  and  beautifid  localities  which  exist  in 
the  foot-hills.  For  instance,  the  large  ruin  at  the  mouth 
of  Wady  Suleikhat,  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  stream, 
cannot  be  seen  from  the  valley  road,  and  the  same  is 
true  of  the  charming  dell  at  Hajeijeh,  whose  trees  would 
be  a  natural  curiosity  in  any  of  the  famous  parks  of  the 
world.  In  like  manner,  the  mouth  of  Wady  Yabis  is  not 
imposing,  and  one  in  passing  it  would  not  be  aware  that 
it  was  more  important  than  a  dozen  others.  Its  depth 
and  wildness  become  apparent  only  when  one  attempts 
to  follow  it  lip  into  the  hills. 

Last  night  we  had  a  very  heavy  dew,  and  our  tents 
were  quite  drenched.  The  tall,  wet  grass  and  weeds  also 
made  it  uncomfortable  going  about ;  but,  on  the  other 
hand,  on  the  side  of  comforts,  the  night  was  cool  and 
we   enjoyed    undisturbed   and   delightful   rest.      This    we 


MAHANAIM  AND  PELLA.  429 

needed,  for  the  exhausting  power  of  this  Jordan  valley 
climate  is  something  wonderful.  Robinson  remarks,  with 
regard  to  the  climate  of  this  valley,  that  for  at  least 
nine  months  of  the  year  it  is  "  excessively  hot "  and 
''  unhealthy  for  strangers."  In  the  middle  of  May,  he 
speaks  of  the  heat  at  Jericho  as  unsupportable,  even 
in  the  shade  (i.,  pp.  553,  554).  Van  de  Velde,  when 
approaching  the  valley  by  one  of  the  gorges  leading  to 
it  from  the  west,  says:  "The  warm  and  fiery  wind  from 
the  Ghor  met  Us  right  in  the  face.  *  *  *  The  air 
seemed  to  be  on  fii-e.  *  *  *  T\|y  guides,  as  well 
as  myself,  thought  we  should  die  while  in  this  gigantic 
furnace "  (ii.,  p.  300).  After  having  at  different  times 
spent  over  two  months  in  the  Jordan  valley,  while  carrying 
on  our  operations  there,  I  can  testify  that  this  is  appro- 
priate language  with  which  to  describe  its  heat  at  certain 
seasons.  The  gi'eat  heat,  in  connection  with  the  absence 
of  rain  or  in*igation,  is  sufficient  to  account  for  the  barren 
appearance  of  this  plain  during  a  large  part  of  the  year. 

Josephus,  in  one  place,  says  that  the  Jordan  flows 
through  "  a  desert "  ("  Wars,"  iii.,  10,  7),  and  in  another, 
that  the  "  plain  is  much  burned  up  in  summer-time " 
("Wars,"  iv.,  8,  2).  Yet  he  calls  the  plain  of  Jericho 
"the  most  fruitful  country  of  Judea"  ("Wars,"  i.,  G,  G), 
and,  after  describing  the  great  variety  of  its  productions, 
adds  that  "  he  who  should  pronounce  this  place  to  be 
divine  would  not  be  mistaken "  ("  Wars,"  iv.,  8,  3). 
More  than  once  the  Bible  speaks  of  Jericho  as  the  "city 
of  palm-trees  "  (Deut.  xxxiv.,  3  ;  Judges  i.,  IG).  Besides 
balsam-trees  in  abundance,  various  species  of  palm 
floiu'ished  here ;  and  on  the  authority  of  Josephus  the 
statement  is  based  that  a  single  grove  covered  an  area 
of  twenty-four  square  miles  ("  Wars,"  iv.,  8,  3).  It  is 
an  interesting  fact  that  these  palm-groves  and  gardens 


430  EAST  OF  THE  JOMBAN. 

of  balsam  were  given  by  Antony  to  Cleopatra,  and  after- 
wards redeemed  by  Herod  the  Great  for  himself,  when 
he  made  this  one  of  his  princely  residences,  transforming 
it  into  a  city  of  palaces,  castles,  theatres,  and  luxuiy  of 
every  kind. 

My  special  object  in  introducing  these  facts  about 
Jericho  is,  that  I  may  use  it  as  an  illustration  of  what 
the  whole  Jordan  plain  might  become  by  proper  and 
careful  cultivation.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the  entire 
valley  could  be  rendered  productive  in  the  highest 
degree.  Dr.  Thomson  is  of  the  opinion  that  it  might  be 
made  to  sustain  easily  ''  half  a  million  of  inhabitants " 
("Land  and  the  Book,"  ii.,  p.  457).  "  Cotton,  rice,  sugar- 
cane, indigo,  and  nearly  every  other  valuable  product  for 
the  use  of  man,"  that  can  grow  in  a  tropical  climate, 
"  would  flourish  here  most  luxuriantly  "  fibid.,  p.  457). 
Indeed,  there  were  extensive  sugar -plantations  in  this 
valley  long  before  America  was  discovered. 

However  barren  the  soil  may  appear,  it  is  naturally 
fertile,  and  wherever  water  touches  it,  vegetation  starts 
up  and  flourishes  with  surprising  vigor.  The  section 
between  the  Lake  of  Tiberias  and  the  Zerka,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  thirty-five  miles,  is  exceedingly  rich, 
because  ten  or  more  streams,  besides  two  respectable 
rivers — the  Menadireh  and  the  Jabbok — flow  down  upon 
it  from  the  eastern  hills,  and  most  of  these  streams  are 
living,  /.  €.,  they  flow  all  summer.  I  have  made  careful 
examinations  of  this  valley,  especially  the  eastern  half, 
with  reference  to  its  being  irrigated  from  the  Jordan  or 
the  Sea  of  Galilee,  and  I  #  find  the  project  is  a  feasible 
one.  Every  square  mile  could  be  reached  by  canals  from 
the  sources  just  named  at  a  small  expense  compared,  for 
instance,  with  the  cost  of  irrigating  in  Egjqjt.  If  we 
reckon  the  valley  at  seventy  miles  in  length  by  three  in 


M AH  AN  AIM  AND  PELL  A.  431 

average  width,  there  would  be  over  two  hundred  square 
miles  of  plain-land  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  alone, 
and  probably  there  is  an  equal,  or  a  greater,  amount  on 
the  west  side,  and  every  acre  could  be  made  as  pro- 
ductive as  the  region  along  the  Nile. 

The  view  of  this  valley,  as  seen  from  the  summit  of 
Mount  Hermon,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world.  At 
one's  feet  is  Lake  Merom,  and  but  a  short  distance  below 
that  is  the  Lake  of  Tiberias,  both  appearing,  from  such 
an  elevated  stand-point,  like  mere  patches  of  silver  on  the 
distant  landscape.  But  from  the  Lake  of  Tiberias  south- 
ward the  valley  is  nothing  less  than  an  awful  chasm, 
sunk  between  two  walls  of  mountains  which  rise  on 
either  side  from  three  thousand  to  five  thousand  feet. 
Throughout  its  entire  length  of  seventy  miles,  the  course 
of  the  Jordan,  or  Lower  Ghor,  can  be  traced,  while  beyond 
that,  the  Dead  Sea  is  plainly  visible,  and  even  the  shore- 
line at  its  southern  end.  The  whole  distance  which  the 
eye  sweeps  over  at  once  is  not  far  from  one  hundred  and 
seventy  miles.  From  the  north  end  of  the  Dead  Sea,  in 
clear  weather,  the  white  dome  of  Hermon  is  clearly  seen 
with  the  naked  eye.  These  statements  may  appear  in- 
credible ;  but,  as  an  illustrative  fact,  it  may  be  mentioned 
that  from  the  villages  in  Mount  Lebanon,  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles  from  Beirut,  the  high  land  in  the  island 
of  Cyprus  is  often  discerned  "vvith  the  naked  eye,  although 
the  distance  between  Cjrprus  and  Beirut  is  not  far  from 
one  hundred  miles. 

During  all  the  time  that  I  have  spent  in  this  inhos- 
pitable valley  I  have  not  lost  a  day  by  sickness.  It  has 
been  necessary,  however,  for  me  to  exercise  the  utmost 
care  in  order  not  to  be  stricken  down  by  the  heat  or 
by  the  malaria.  Besides  woollen  underclothing  through- 
out, I  have  worn  a  heavy  woollen  shirt,  also  woollen  vest, 


432  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

trousers,  and  coat.  The  person  must  be  protected  from 
the  heat.  However  hot  the  day  may  have  been,  one 
experiences,  as  soon  as  the  sun  sets,  a  chilly  sensation, 
which  is  a  sure  premonitor  of  evil.  At  such  times  my 
practice  has  been  to  put  on  extra  wraps,  close  the 
tent-door,  take  some  quinine  and  a  cup  of  hot  tea,  and 
when  the  chill  was  "  off,''  I  felt  safe  for  the  rest  of 
the  night.  I  have  never  had  about  the  camp,  even  in 
the  medicine-chest,  any  wine  or  liquor  of  any  kind. 
After  a  hard  day's  work,  or  after  getting  wet  in.  the 
marshes  and  wadies,  I  have  made  it  a  conscientious  duty 
to  take  extra  precautions  to  ward  off  any  bad  results 
which  might  otherwise  have  followed  my  unusual  expos- 
ure. Neither  Americans  nor  Englishmen  can  live  or  labor 
in  the  Jordan  valley  with  impunity.  In  fact,  they  are  con- 
stantly exposed  to  great  danger,  and  even  death.  It  is 
very  rare  that  travellers  visit  this  valley, —  at  least,  that 
they  remain  long  enough  to  become  acquainted  with  its 
strange  character,  and  its  many  features  of  interest.  From 
the  lower  end  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  they  may  gaze  down 
the  chasm  which  I  have  described,  or  perhaps  cross  it  at 
the  Damieh  ford ;  they  may  descend  into  it  at  Jericho, 
going  thence  to  the  river,  or  to  the  Dead  Sea,  or  both ;  but 
they  turn  their  faces  and  their  steps  away  from  it  into 
the  hills  with  all  possible  haste,  thankful  that  they  have 
escaped  with  health  unimpaired.  In  fact,  I  have  known 
of  travellers  being  taken  with  a  fever  from  having  spent 
only  one  night  in  the  valley. 

While  the  climate  is  so  unsafe  for  foreigners,  the  Arabs 
who  are  born  and  live  here  are  not  seriously  affected  by  it. 
Besides,  the  ruins  attest  that  this  plain  has  been  occupied 
in  the  past  by  a  numerous  population.  No  serious  objec- 
tion on  the  scon^  of  climate,  therefore,  can  be  urged 
against  its  being  redeeminl  and  again  occupied. 


MAHANAIM  AND  PELLA.  433 

There  is  very  good  reason  for  supposing  tliat  one  im- 
portant Biblical  site,  which  I  have  not  yet  mentioned, 
was  situated  in  the  Jordan  valley,  east  of  the  river,  and  at 
uo  very  great  distance  north  of  the  Jabbok:  I  refer  to 
Mahanaim. 

This  boundary  city  was  within  the  limits  of  the  territory 
of  Gad  (Josh,  xxi.,  38).  At  the  time  of  the  division  under 
Joshua  it  was  no  doubt  an  important  and  well-known 
place,  and  represented  the  western  boundary,  just  as  Hesli- 
bon  did  the  southern.  It  was  so  situated  that  half-Manas- 
seh  could  reckon  its  territory  as  commencing  "from," 
i.  e.,  at  or  near  it.  It  is  just  possible  that  there  was  a 
district  of  this  name,  for  Jacob  must  have  tarried  there 
some  time,  namely,  while  his  messengers  went  to  Esau  and 
returned,  and  for  the  patriarch,  not  a  city,  but  grass  and 
ivater  were  the  chief  considerations  (Gen.  xxxii.,  1-13). 
Indeed,  we  do  not  know  that  there  was  a  city  of  that  name 
in  Jacob's  time.  Mahanaim  alone  was  assigned  to  one 
commissariat  officer,  from  which  fact  we  infer  that  it  must 
have  represented  a  district  (I.  Kings  iv.,  14).  Mahanaim 
was  certainly  some  little  distance  north  of  the  Jabbok, 
because  Jacob  came  to  it  before  he  crossed  that  stream.  It 
was  certainly  in  or  near  the  Jordan  vaUey,  for  Jacol),  in 
his  prayer  at  that  place,  says :  "  With  my  staff  I  passed 
over  this  Jordan"  (Gen.  xxxii.,  10).  Unless  the  Jordan  had 
been  within  sight,  such  language  would  not  have  been 
used.  Mahanaim  coidd  not  have  been  in  the  mountains,  or 
east  of  the  Gilead  hills,  as  at  Gerash,  or  at  the  jjlace 
marked  on  some  of  the  old  maps  "  Mahne,"  near  El  Husn, 
where,  indeed,  is  no  place  of  that  name. 

In  the  account  of  the  duel  between, Abner's  men  and 
Joab's  men  there  is,  perhaps,  a  hint  confirming  the  sug- 
gestion that  Mahanaim  was  in  or  near  the  Jordan  valley. 
''  Abner  and  his  men  walked  all  that  night  through  the 
19 


434  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

plain,  and  paesecl  over  Jordan,  and  went  through  all 
Bithrou,  and  they  came  to  Mahanaim"  (II.  Sam.  ii.,  29). 
They  went  up  the  Jordan  valley  on  the  west  side,  crossed 
by  the  present  Damieh  ford,  and  continued  their  journey 
northward  to  Mahanaim.  "  Went  through  all  Bithron " 
is  a  difficult  phrase.  The  Septuagint  reads :  ''  Crossed 
over  Jordan  and  went  along  the  whole  adjacent  country." 
Rashi,  David  Kimchi,  and  other  Jewish  commentators 
explain  "  Bithron  "  by  "  machoz,"  tina,  meaning  a  coast  or 
a  hanli,  and  in  late  Hebrew  an  open  place,,  used  of 
markets,  also  a  district.  As  the  word  does  not  occur 
elsewhere  in  the  Bible,  it  may  refer  simply  to  the  region  in 
the  Jordan  valley  extending  northward  from  the  Jabbok 
to  Mahanaim.  Kimchi  says  that  this  was  the  case. 
Josephus's  incidental  notices  of  Mahanaim  in  his  extended 
account  of  the  battle  between  David  and  Absalom,  furnish 
but  few  particulars  in  addition  to  the  Biblical  record.  It 
is  doubtful  if  he  knew  much  of  this  place  beyond  what 
that  record  aifords.  JMahanaim  he  calls  a  "  a  very  fine 
and  very  strong  city."  It  was  "  in  the  country  of  Gilead"; 
but  as  aU.  the  territory  of  G-ad  was  in  Gilead,  this  indica- 
tion gives  us  no  light. 

The  Bible  account  of  the  forces  coming  out  of  the 
city  "by  hundreds  and  by  thousands"  (II.  Sam.  xviii.,  4), 
Josephus  does  not  mention.  We  are  not  to  infer  from 
ixs;  that  the  army  vmit  forth  out  of  the  city  itseK.  The 
statement  properly  means  that  David  stood  by  the  gate, 
and  the  people  went  forth  to  battle  (not  out  of  the  city) 
by  hundreds  and  thousands.  Absalom's  army  was 
encamped  "  not  far  from  Mahanaim."  Joab,  by  whom  the 
attack  was  made,  "put  his  army  in  battle  array  over  against 
the  enemy  in  the  great  plain  where  he  had  a  wood  behind 
him."  Absalom's  men  were  routed,  and  "  fled  through  the 
forests  and  valleys,"  pursued  by  Duvid't^  men.     The  Bible 


M AH  AN  AIM  AND  PELLA.  435 

states  that  "the  battle  was  there  scattered  over  the  face 
of  all  the  country,  and  the  wood  devoured  more  people 
that  day  than  the  sword  devoured"  (II.  Sam.  xviii.,  8). 
Absalom's  men  ran,  it  would  seem,  in  all  directions. 

The  word  rendered  "  wood "  (-iy'>,  verses  G,  8)  does  not 
mean  a  forest,  but  a  broken  region,  uneven,  rocky,  and  per- 
haps with  some  bushes  on  it.  It  may  have  had  also  large 
trees.  There  certainly  was  one,  a  great  oak,  or  terebinth, 
under  the  thick,  wide-spreading  branches  of  which  it  was 
the  most  natural  thing  in  the  world  for  the  mule  to  plunge 
to  rid  itself  of  its  burden,  and  in  this  case  with  a  fatal 
result  to  its  rider. 

Still  further,  the  word  sadeh,  mu;,  generally  signifies  a 
plain  field  rather  than  a  hilly  or  mountainous  place.  This 
is  an  incidental  hint  that  Josephus  is  correct  in  calling 
the  place  where  the  two  armies  were  drawn  up  for  battle 
''the  great  plain"  ("Antiquities,"  vii.,  9,  8,  and  10,  1-5). 

We  have  a  further  hint  in  the  account  of  the  messengers 
who  bore  the  news  of  Absalom's  death  to  David.  Of  the 
two  who  ran,  Cushi,  an  Ethiopian  slave,  belonging  to 
Joab,  either  did  not  know  the  way  or  did  not  care  to 
hasten.  At  aU  events,  he  fell  behind  Ahimaaz,  who  "  ran 
by  the  way  of  the  plain  [ciccar,  irs],  and  overran  Cushi" 
(11.  Sam.  xviii.,  23).  That  a  style  of  running  is  referred  to 
(as  Ewald  thinks),  needs  no  answer.  No  such  style  was 
ever  known.  Ahimaaz  was  doubtless  familiar  with  the 
region,  and  took  the  shortest  or  the  most  feasible  route  to 
reach  Mahanaim.  If  both  messengers  started  from  the 
plain,  why  did  they  not  remain  in  it  ?  The  record  seems  to 
imply  that  both  were  in  the  hills,  perhaps  the  foot-hills, 
and  one  attempted  to  go  across  over  deep  wadies  and 
broken  ground,  while  the  other  struck  down  to  the  Jordan 
valley,  and  thence  had  a  level  and  smooth  road  to  the 
place  where  David  was. 


43G  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Because  the  city  had  gates  does  not  prove  that  it  was 
walled.  The  gate  with  the  open  area  about  it  was  the 
place  where  public  business  was  transacted.  The  gate 
itself  might  be  elaborate  and  costly,  with  a  ''  roof ''  and 
"  chamber "  over  it  (verses  24,  33),  and  at  the  same  time 
the  city  have  no  walls.  A  few  of  the  ruined  towns  in  the 
Hauran  were  built  in  this  way, — notably  Um  el  Jemal. 
The  gate  might  join  neighboring  buildings,  and  hence  the 
word  "  wall"  might  be  appropriately  used  (verse  24)  even 
when  the  city  was  not  enclosed  by  a  wall.  It  is  implied, 
however,  that  from  the  "roof  over  the  gate,"  where  the 
watchman  stood,  one  could  see  to  a  considerable  distance. 

Parchi  speaks  of  a  place  called  Mahneh,  nsna,  about  half 
a  day's  journey  in  a  due  eastern  direction  from  Bethshean, 
which  he  does  not  hesitate  to  identify  with  Mahanaim 
(Benjamin  of  Tudela,  ii.,  p.  408).  The  probability  of  these 
being  identical  has  also  been  suggested  by  Seetzen, 
Robinson,  Tristram,  and  many  others  (Seetzen  i.,  p.  385 ; 
Robinson,  "Physical  Geography,"  p.  86;  Tristram,  "Land  of 
Israel,"  p.  474).  This  place  is  correctly  located  on  our  map 
above,  p.  355,  where,  and  on  pp.  356,  357,  we  have  spoken 
of  the  wady  of  the  same  name,  which  passes  to  the 
south  and  west  of  the  ruin,  while  a  smaller  branch  of 
the  same  wady  runs  to  the  north  of  it.  The  ruin  covers  a 
space  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  extent,'  and  is  com- 
pletely hidden  by  a  gi'owth  of  trees  and  bushes.  The  ruins 
do  not  indicate  any  great  age  or  importance. 

This  place  will  not  answer  the  conditions  which  we 
have  seen  to  be  necessary.  No  one  would  run  "  by  way  of 
the  plain  "  to  reach  Mahneh,  for  it  is  far  up  in  the  GOead 
mountains;  and  aU  the  hints  that  have  been  presented 
hitherto  indicate  a  position  for  Mahanaim  in  or  near  the 
Jordan  valley.  There  is  not  room  in  the  valley  fi.  e., 
Wady  Mahneh)  for  troops  to  manoeuvre  "  by  thousands.'' 


MAHANAIM  AND  PELLA.  437 

A  city  would  not  be  likely  to  be  built  there,  for  it  is  only 
three  miles  north  of  'Ajlun,  which  was  a  large  and  impor- 
tant centre.  The  implied  distance  at  which  the  runners 
were  discovered  by  the  watchman  would  not  be  applicable 
to  Mahneh.  There  does  not  exist  for  many  miles  in  any 
dh'ection  from  Mahneh  a  region  corresponding  to  a  field, 
mto,  or  a  great  plain.  Two  Arabic  scholars  in  Beirut, 
to  whom  the  question  was  submitted,  thought  Mahneh 
might  possibly  be  a  relic  of  Mahanaim ;  but  they  made  the 
statement  with  considerable  doubt  or  reserve. 

It  may  be  unreasonable  to  expect  to  find  the  site  of  a 
city  that  is  not  mentioned  in  the  Bible  after  the  time  of 
David,  with  the  single  exception  of  I.  Kings  iv.,  14,  which 
states  that  Mahanaim  was  the  station  of  one  of  Solomon's 
commissariat  officers.  But  the  ruins  in  the  Jordan  valley 
that  have  any  claim  to  be  the  site  can  be  here  referred 
to,  and  the  probabilities  stated. 

Six  miles  north  of  the  Zerka,  passing  TeU  Ammata  on 
the  way,  "Wady  'Ajlun  is  reached.  This  bears,  as  before 
stated  (p.  426),  at  least  three  different  names :  Wady  'Ajlun, 
Wady  Kefrenji,  and  Wady  Fagaris.  Fagaris,  which  the 
natives  also  pronounce  "  Fakaris,"  is  the  name  of  a  large 
ruin  at  the  mouth  of  the  wady.  Here  is  a  fertile  valley, 
abundance  of  water,  and  the  ruins  of  an  important  city. 
This  must  always  have  been  an  eligible  site  for  a  town. 

Three  miles  farther  north,  passing  about  midway  a 
small  ruin,  mostly  buried,  Wady  Suleikhat  is  reached. 
This  wady  bears  the  name  of  El  Khirbeh  in  its  upper 
course.  Here  water  is  abundant,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the 
wady  are  the  ruins  of  a  large  city,  lying  on  both  sides  of 
the  stream.  This  is  by  far  the  largest  ruin  in  the  Jordan 
valley  east  of  the  river.  Khurbet  Suleikhat  is  some  three 
hundred  feet  above  the  plain,  and  among  the  foot-hills,  in 
such  a  way  that  it  overlooks  the  valley,  while  the  road 


438  EAST  OF  THE  JOUDAN. 

running  north  and  soutli  along  tlie  valley  passes  nearly  a 
mile  to  the  west  of  it.  Indeed,  one  might  go  along  the 
valley  road  and  not  he  aware  of  the  existence  of  this  ruin. 
Both  Suleikhat  and  Fagaris  are  covered  (in  the  winter  and 
spring)  by  a  rank  growth  of  weeds  and  vegetation,  and  as 
the  soil  is  to  a  great  extent  alluvial,  a  large  part  of  any 
very  ancient  ruins  are  probably  buried  beneath  the  surface. 

The  Jordan  valley,  from  the  Zerka  to  the  Sea  of  Galilee, 
is  exceedingly  fertile ;  and  in  any  period  when  the  country 
was  settled  and  a  good  government  in  power,  it  must  have 
been  one  of  the  most  wealthy  and  important  sections  of 
Palestine  for  the  raising  of  wheat  and  other  products, 
while  the  foot-hills  would  afford  excellent  pasturage. 
"We  shoidd  naturally  expect  that  the  principal  city  of 
the  valley,  with  the  region  belonging  to  it,  would  be 
given  to  one  commissariat  officer,  as  is  represented  in 
I.  Kings  iv.,  14. 

If  any  existing  ruin  in  the  Jordan  valley,  or  in  the  foot- 
hills bordering  on  it,  is  to  be  chosen  as  the  site  of  Maha- 
naim,  Khurbet  Suleikhat  perhaps  answers  the  conditions 
better  than  any  other.  The  di\dding  line  between  Gad  and 
haK-Manasseh,  which  cuts  Mount  GUead  in  halves,  if 
extended  would  pass  not  far  north  of  this  ruin.  No  one 
supposes  that  these  boundary  cities  were  exactly  on  the 
dividing  line.  This  place,  "  with  its  suburbs,"  would  have 
been  in  the  territory  of  Gad,  and  haK-Manasseh  would 
begin  to  reckon  its  territory  from  a  point  near,  or  possil)ly 
at  some  distance  from  it.  In  either  case,  "from  Mahanaim" 
would  be  sufficiently  accurate  for  all  i3ractical  purposes. 
This  place  is  so  situated  that  it  could  be  more  easdy 
defended  than  Fagaris.  A  watchman  from  a  tower  could 
see  to  the  north  a  considerable  distance;  also,  clear 
across  the  valley  to  the  west,  and  down  the  valley  to 
the  south   a  long  stretch,  nearly  or  quite  to  the  point 


MAHANAIM  AND  PELLA.  439 

where  the  Zerka  and  tlie  Jordan  unite,  at  the  foot  of  Kurn 
Sartabeh.  In  addition  to  these  facts,  if  we  consider  that 
the  town  is  double, — lying  on  two  sides  of  a  stream, — 
also,  its  size,  the  abundance  of  cool,  sweet  water,  and  the 
fertile  region  about  it,  we  have  a  location  where  Mahanaim 
— one  of  the  principal  East  Jordan  cities  in  the  time  of 
David — might  have  stood. 

All  the  region  in  the  hills  about  Wady  Yabis  had  been 
thoroughly  explored  by  us  last  year,  with  the  exception  ot 
one  small  locality,  where  I  heard  there  was  an  old  ruin. 
To  reach  this,  we  followed  up  the  north  side  of  Wady 
Yabis,  and  in  one  hour  came  to  it.  The  ruin  is  not  large, 
but  is  very  ancient,  the  stones  being  of  gi-eat  size.  It  bear^ 
at  present  the  name  of  Khurbet  Abu  Sallih,  and  commands 
a  good  view  of  the  Jordan  vaUey,  together  with  Beisan 
and  its  great  plain ;  Ed  Deir  Halawi,  on  the  summits 
south  of  Wady  Yabis,  is  also  seen. 

Twenty  minutes  beyond  this  place,  on  our  way  to  Kefr 
Abil,  we  found  a  large  dolmen.  The  width  inside  the 
walls  was  three  feet;  the  covering-stone  was  nine  feet 
long,  seven  feet  wide,  and  two  feet  thick.  We  asked  our 
guide's  opinion  (he  belonged  to  the  Balawni  Arabs,  in  the 
valley)  about  these  strange  relics,  and  he  replied:  "They 
exist  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  Arabs  do  not 
know  what  they  are.  They  are  very  old."  The  localities 
where  these  objects  are  sometimes  found  only  increase 
the  difficulty  of  explaining  their  origin.  This  is  true  of 
the  one  found  to-day.  If  it  were  a  tomb,  why  was  it  put 
in  such  an  out-of-the-way  place?  They  are  frequentl;y 
found  at  points  where  sentinels  would  be  stationed, — 
that  is,  on  the  supposition  that  a  road  existed,  and  that 
the  road  was  guarded.  I  have  found  them  on  the  hue 
of  a  Roman  road,  at  commanding  points;   on  the  other 


440  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAK. 

hand,  it  is  supposed  by  some  tliat  these  strange  momi- 
ments   are  not  Roman  work. 

Kefr  Abil  is  finely  located.  West  of  the  xdllage  are 
some  large  butm-trees,  and  many  squared  basalt  blocks 
of  Roman  work  lie  scattered  about,  some  of  which  have 
been  utilized  as  gravestones. 

I  inquired  again  of  these  village  people  about  the  roads 
leading  in  different  directions,  to  see  if  the  new  testimony 
would  harmonize  with  information  I  had  obtained  before. 
I  wished  to  learn  chiefly  about  the  route  leading  from 
Tubakat  Fah'l  to  Gerash.  They  said  the  best  route  from 
the  Jordan  valley  to  'Ain  Jenneh  was  from  Tubakat  Fah'l 
past  Miryamin  and  Kefr  Abil  to  Maklub,  on  the  Yabis. 
This  was  the  best  and  shortest  route,  and  the  one  usually 
travelled.  From  that  point — that  is,  Maklub — there  were 
two  roads.  The  common  route  was  the  one  leading  past 
Ba'aun  and  up  Wady  Mahneh.  On  this  there  were  no  bad 
places.  The  worst  one  was  very  near  'Ain  Jenneh.  The 
other  route  referred  to  lies  to  the  south  of  the  Wady 
Mahneh  route,  and  leads  over  the  hills.  It,  also,  was  a 
good  road.  By  our  previous  observation  and  experience, 
we  were  prepared  to  confirm  this  testimony  as  reliable. 

The  Roman  road  referred  to  by  Eusebius  could  not 
cross  Wady  Yabis  at  any  point  between  its  mouth  and 
Maklub.  This  is  the  natural  crossing,  and  the  road  has 
now  been  traced  from  that  point  towards  Gerash  in  one 
direction,  and  towards  Tubakat  Fah'l  in  the  opposite 
direction. 

On  our  way  from  Kefr  Abil  we  traced,  for  the  third 
time,  this  Roman  road  between  PeUa  and  Gerash.  We 
lunched  at  Tubakat  Fah'l,  and  came  on  to  our  camp  at 
Tell  Arb'ain,  near  the  stream  of  that  name.  Near  us  is  a 
large  grove  of  sumt-trees,  a  kind  which  I  do  not  rememl^er 
to  have  seen  before.     It  has  thorns,  and  a  short  trimk ' 


M AH  AN  AIM  AND  FELLA.  441 

resembling,  in  form,  our  thrifty  apple-trees.  Abont  this 
tell  we  found  the  camps  of  ovir  old  friends,  the  Gazawiyeh 
Arabs,  who  have  furnished  us  with  milk  and  eggs.  A  man 
came  along  who  had  l)een  to  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  fishing. 
We  purchased  a  few  fresh  fish,  and  had  them  for  our 
supper.  The  kind  we  bought  is  called  miislit.  Not 
only  is  the  Sea  of  Galilee  full  of  fish,  but  the  Jordan 
also,  in  the  still  places;  the  Jabbok  and  the  Menadireh 
or  Yarmuk  hterally  swarm  with  them. 

Some  naturalist  has  yet  the  interesting  task  to  accom- 
plish, of  classifying  the  kinds  and  varieties  of  fish  which 
abound  in  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  Palestine. 

The  Gazawiyeh  told  us  of  the  welfare  of  our  companions, 
Messrs.  Ashworth  and  Christian,  whom  they  had  received 
and  cared  for  after  these  gentlemen  left  our  camp  on  the 
Jabbok,  and  while  they  were  making  their  way  thence  up 
the  valley  to  Tiberias. 

These  Arabs  were  glad  to  see  us,  and  wondered  how  we 
had  avoided  getting  into  trouble  in  the  'Ajlun  district,  and 
among  the  tribes  in  the  south.  They  confirmed  what  we 
had  learned,  that  the  people  of  Jebel  'Ajlun  were  in  a 
ferment,  and  almost  open  rebellion,  on  account  of  the  war- 
tax.  They  tell  us,  also,  that  the  Ghor  Arabs  have  no  such 
trouble,  that  they  have  no  wars,  and  live  peaceably  always. 
This,  for  them,  is  self-praise,  but  after  all  there  is  consider- 
able truth  in  it. 

Our  only  game  to-day  is  a  pair  of  pigeons.  We  have  seen 
plenty  of  hoopoes  and  doves,  a  few  partridges,  cuckoos, 
four  gazelles,  and  in  the  valley  now  the  storks  are  numerous. 

In  this  part  of  the  valley  vegetation  is  very  rank,  and  so 
it  is  far  up  among  the  hills.  From  Tubakat  Fah'l  to  our 
camp,  a  distance  of  nearly  six  miles,  the  thistles  and  weeds 
were  so  stout  as  to  make  it  difficult  to  push  through  them. 
About  our  tent  I  counted  thirteen  different  kinds  of  weeds 
19* 


442  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

and  wild  plants,  as  liigh  as  my  waist  or  shoulders ;  at 
some  points  these  weeds  and  thistles  were  as  high  as  a 
horse's  hack,  and  again  as  high  as  my  shoulders  when  I 
was  sitting  on  my  horse. 

The  evening  is  eof)l  and  the  air  fresh,  hut  at  the  same 
time  it  is  soft  and  dehghtful.  What  a  pity  that  civilized 
men  cannot  rebuild  the  cities  that  once  stood  on  these 
mounds,  and  occupy  and  improve  this  fertile  valley ! 

We  came  to-day  from  Miryamin  to  Tuhakat  Fah'l  in 
one  hour  and  fifteen  minutes.  Last  year  we  made  the 
same  distance  in  one  hour  and  forty  minutes.  Difference 
in  pace  would  make  this  difference  in  time,  but  the 
distance  at  an  ordinary  walk  must  be  about  one  hoiu*  and 
a  half. 

Tubakat  Fah'l  is  a  beautiful  location  for  a  city,  and  the 
wonder  is  that  it  should  have  been  forsaken.  The  Jirm  el 
Moz,  on  which  it  stands,  is  a  large,  clear  stream,  and  the 
place  is  an  attractive  one,  even  in  its  desolation.  There  is 
now  little  doubt  that  it  corresponds  to  Pella,  one  of  the 
chief  towns  of  Perea. 

This  province  has  an  interest  to  the  Biblical  student 
because  it  was  governed  by  Pheroras,  a  brother  of  Herod 
the  Great  ("  Antiquities,"  xv.,  10,  3 ;  "  Wars,"  i.,  30,  3,  4), 
and  later,  by  Herod  Antipas,  who  was  Christ's  civil  ruler 
("Antiquities,"  xvii.,  11,  4;  "Wars,"  ii.,  6,  3);  but  chiefly 
from  the  fact  that  our  Lord  entered  it,  and  remained  for 
some  time,  where  he  worked  miracles,  and  was  attended 
by  great  miiltitudes  (see  details  and  references  in  Lewin, 
"Fasti  Sacri,"  pp.  229,  230;  Nos.  1425-1433). 

For  the  important  city  of  Pella  several  sites  have  been 
suggested,  among  which  are  Suf,  Mazarib,  Irbid,  and 
Tubakat  Fah'l.  The  coins  of  Pella  that  have  been  pre- 
served, and  the  few  historical  notices  of  it  which  remain, 
show  that  it  was  a  flouiishiug  city  as  late  as  the  fourth  (if 


MAHANAIM  AND  PELLA.  443 

uot  even  the  fifth  and  sixth)  century  of  our  era,  and  it 
seems  hardly  possible  that  all  trace  of  it  should  lie  lost. 
Dr.  Robinson  argues  strongly  for  the  identity  of  Fah'l 
with  Pella,  and  speaks  with  enthusiasm  of  the  i^ride  which 
he  felt  in  having  made  this  discovery  (iii.,  p.  323). 

It  is  possible  that  two  passages  in  Josephns  wliich 
appear  to  conflict  with  each  other  have  led  some  scholars 
to  doubt  the  propriety  of  this  identification.  These  are  (1) 
"  Wars,"  iii.,  3,  3,  where  the  limits  of  Perea  are  definitely 
given  as  extending  from  Macherus  to  Pella,  and  from 
Philadelphia  and  Gerasa  to  the  Jordan  5  and  (2)  "  Wars," 
iv.,  7,  3,  where  G-adara  is  called  ''  the  metropolis  of  Perea." 
It  has  been  argued  that  if  Fah'l  is  PeUa,  and  PeUa  was 
the  northern  limit  of  Perea,  then  Gadara,  whose  site  is 
well  known,  could  uot  be  its  metropolis,  since  it  is  situated 
many  miles  to  the  north  of  Fah'l. 

This  argument,  however,  will  be  seen  to  be  without  force 
when  we  consider  the  fact  that  Perea,  like  several  other  of 
the  names  of  provinces  east  of  the  Jordan,  had  two  signifi- 
cations, a  narrower  and  a  wider.  This  is  the  case  with 
the  names  Coele  Syria,  Arabia,  Moab,  Gilead,  Bashan, 
Hairran,  and  Trachonitis.  Josephus,  in  ''Wars,"  iii.,  3,  3, 
used  Perea  in  the  narrower  sense.  No  doubt  the  Hmits 
he  assigns  to  the  province  were  strictly  correct  at  the  time 
to  which  he  refers.  But  it  is  not  disputed  that  at  the  time 
of  Chiist,  and  probably  both  earlier  and  later,  the  name 
was  often  applied  to  the  whole  country  east  of  the  Jordan. 
Josephus  himseK  uses  it  in  this  sense  in  some  matter 
between  Demetrius  the  elder  and  Jonathan,  the  high- 
priest,  concerning  taxes  ("  Antiquities,"  xiii.,  2,  3),  and 
again,  between  Demetrius,  son  of  the  former,  and  Jona- 
than, concerning  tribute.  The  provinces  to  which  the 
taxes  and  tribute  refer  are  Judea,  Samaria,  Galilee,  and 
Perea,  meaning  the  whole  of  the  East  Jordan  territory 


444  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

("  Antiquities,"  xiii.,  4,  9).  The  division  here  indicated  is 
one  followed  by  the  Talmud,  and  the  early  Jewish 
writings.  To  the  Hebrews,  the  phrase  "beyond  the  Jor- 
dan," eher  kai/yarde»,  included  the  whole  country  on  that 
side  of  the  river.  The  Jerusalem  Talmud  makes  the  moun- 
tainous portion  of  the  "beyond  Jordan"  to  extend  from 
Macherus  to  Gadara  ("  Shibiith,"  ix.  2,  text  and  GemaraJ. 
Eusebius,  in  speaking  of  Amathus,  uses  the  phrase 
"  Lower  Perea." 

Hence  it  is  seen  that  the  passages  referred  to  in  Jose- 
phus  do  not  conflict,  and  the  statement  that  Gadara  was 
the  metropolis  of  Perea  presents  no  obstacle  to  identify- 
ing Fah'l  with  PeUa,  provided  we  have  sufficient  grounds 
for  doing  so. 

In  the  reign  of  Alexander  Janneus,  in  a  long  list  of 
cities  that  had  been  in  the  possession  of  the  "  Syrians, 
Idumeans,  and  Phoenicians "  ("  Antiquities,"  xiii.,  15,  4), 
but  had  come  into  the  possession  of  the  Jews,  Gadara 
and  Scythopolis  are  mentioned  as  being  "  near  the  coun- 
try of  Samaria."  Then  follows  a  number  which  were  "in 
the  country  of  Moab,"  and  among  these  is  Pella.  As  the 
position  of  Gadara  is  known,  this  passage  furnishes  evi- 
dence that  Pella  was  not  only  south  of  the  Yarmuk,  but 
apparently  a  considerable  distance  south  of  Gadara.  This 
is  a  point  gained. 

Prom  Stephanus  of  Byzantium,  we  learn  that  the  former 
name  of  Pella  was  Boutis,  Bnvng.  Ritter  (xv.,  p.  1025),  on 
the  authority  of  Ptolemy,  states  that  PeUa  was  five  geo- 
graphical miles  south-east  of  Scythopolis.  This  is  impor- 
tant as  giving  us  the  clue  to  the  direction  in  which,  from 
the  last-mentioned  place,  we  are  to  look  for  the  lost  site, 
and  Fah'l  would  seem  to  be  the  place  indicated. 

Ptolemy  gives  the  longitude  and  latitude  of  Scythopolis 
as  67°  20'  and  31°  55',  and  of  Pella  as  67°  40'  and  31°  40'. 


31  AH  AN  AIM  AND   PELL  A.  445 

Pella  is  thus  one-third  of  a  degree  east  of  Scythopolis  and 
one-fom-th  of  a  degi'ee  south  of  it.  It  is  noticeable,  fur- 
ther, that  Ptolemy  gives  the  longitude  of  Paneas  as  67°  40'j 
which  is  exactly  the  same  as  that  of  Pella.  These  facts 
furnish  very  important  evidence  that  the  proposed  identifi- 
cation is  correct. 

The  language  of  Eusebius  and  Jerome,  in  their  refer- 
ences to  Pella,  leads  us  to  infer  that  there  was  a  road  lead- 
ing from  it  to  Gerasa.  These  hints  ought  to  help  us  in 
locating  Pella,  since  the  position  of  Gerasa  is  well  known. 
Thus,  under  "Arisoth/'  "Jabis  *  *  *  is  six  miles  from 
Pella  to  those  going  to  Gerasa."  Under  "Jaliis  Galaad,'' 
''  *  *  *  at  the  sixth  mile  from  the  city  of  Pella,  upon 
the  mountain,  to  those  going  to  Gerash."  This  is  from 
Jerome.  Eusebius  has  the  word  Kniievi^^  ''  located  upon 
the  mountain."  According  to  these  statements,  six  Roman 
mdes  from  Pella  would  bring  us  upon  the  mountain,  at  no 
very  great  distance  from  Gerash,  which  fact  would  be  a 
serious  objection  to  the  claims  of  either  Mazarib  or  Irbid. 

If  a  Roman  road  could  be  brought  to  light  leading  from 
Fah'l  up  over  the  hills  to  Gerash,  it  would  establish  as  fact 
what  has  been  inferred  from  the  language  of  Eusebius  and 
Jerome,  and  hence  go  far  towards  confirming  the  proposed 
identification  of  Fah'l  mth  Pella.  No  one,  so  far  as  we  are 
aware,  had  ever  traced  such  a  road ;  this  work  was  reserved 
for  us,  and  we  think  it  has  been  successfully  done.  For 
the  first  two  mdes  after  leaving  the  city,  the  way  was  diffi- 
cult, and  is  marked  by  cuttings  in  the  rock,  and  also  in  the 
side  of  the  hill,  after  the  road  had  been  carried  round  the 
head  of  a  short  wady.  But  for  the  rest  of  the  distance,  the 
ground  was  comparatively  easy.  We  have  above  (p.  357) 
indicated  the  route  of  this  thoroughfare. 

The  remains  of  this  road  are  the  best  proofs  of  its 
existence ;  but  a  fui-ther  hint  is  found  in  "  Wars,"  i.,  4,  8, 


446  EAST  OF   THE  JOED  AN. 

where  Alexander  Jannoeiis,  after  having  been  defeated  by 
Aretas  the  Arabian,  renews  the  war,  and  crosses  the  Jor- 
dan. He  subdued  Pella,  and  then  "  directed  his  march  on 
the  city  of  Gerasa."  The  latter  must  have  been  an  acces- 
sible point  from  PeUa,  and  we  should  infer  that  there  was 
a  direct  road  connecting  the  two  places. 

Still  further  evidence  of  the  same  character  is  found  in 
the  account  of  Pompey's  connection  with  this  region  in  the 
■  year  63  B.  C.  Coming  from  the  north,  the  Roman  general 
had  reached  Damascus,  and,  besides  settling  various  other 
affairs  in  Ccele  Syria,  was  preparing  a  force  to  lead  south 
against  the  Nabatheans  under  Aretas  ("  Antiquities,"  xiv., 
3,  3,  4  ;  "  Wars,"  i.,  6,  5).  He  had  heard  the  cause  of  Aris- 
tobulus  and  Hyrcanus  at  Damascus,  and  dismissed  them, 
expecting  that  they  would  remain  quiet  while  he  went  on 
his  proposed  expedition,  when  the  news  came  to  him  that 
Aristobulus  was  instigating  a  revolt.  Pompey,  "  angry  at 
this  behavior,"  turned  aside,  apparently  with  a  large  force, 
and  marched  towards  Judea.  As  he  had  already  started, 
he  may  have  been  two,  three,  or  four  days  south  of  Damas- 
cus, It  has  been  necessary  to  detail  these  circumstances, 
because  it  is  stated  in  the  "  Antiquities,"  and  also  in  the 
"  Wars,"  that,  in  marching  to  Judea,  he  went  "  by  way  of 
Pella  and  Scythopolis."  If  we  suppose  Pompey  to  have 
been  at  Mazarib,  or  a  day's  march  south  of  there  (he  could 
not  have  gone  much  farther,  for  the  Nabatheans  had 
retired  only  to  Philadelphia  when  the  news  just  refen-ed 
to  reached  him),  he  would  have  a  choice  of  two  main 
routes,  namely,  one  already  described  as  leading  from 
Gerash  to  Pella  and  thence  to  Scythopolis,  and  the  other 
by  'Ajlun  and  the  Damieh  ford.  For  some  reason  he  chose 
the  former. 

Again,  in  the  time  of  Florus,  after  the  terrible  massacre 
of  the  Jews  at  Cesarea,  when  the  nation  was  thoroughly 


31  AH  AN  AIM  AND  FELLA.  447 

aroused  for  revenge,  tlie  destroying  force  followed  appar- 
ently a  weU-known  road,  taking  the  cities  of  their  enemies 
in  order,  namely,  Philadelphia,  *  *  *  Gerasa,  Pella, 
and  Scythopolis  ("  Wars,"  ii.,  18,  1).  On  the  supposition 
of  a  main  road  leading  from  Gerasa  to  PeRa,  the  order  in 
which  these  names  occur  is  perfectly  natural. 

We  have  noticed,  in  speaking  of  Amathus,  that  Eusebius 
and  Jerome  place  it  south  of  Pella,  a  distance  of  twenty-one 
miles.  If  Amathus  has  been  correctly  located,  this  indica- 
tion is  an  important  one  in  aiding  us  to  fix  the  site  of  Pella. 

Again,  it  is  stated  by  Polybius  that  Antiochus,  after 
taking  Scythopolis,  crossed  the  Jordan  and  took  PeUa  (Hist., 
v.,  70,  71).  This  would  indicate  that,  after  having  crossed 
the  river,  Pella  was  the  first  important  place  to  be  subdued. 

It  is  a  fact  worthy  of  notice  that  Pella  is  the  only  north 
and  south  boundary  indication  pertaining  to  this  region 
which  the  ancient  records  contain,  after  the  Bible  reference 
to  an  east  and  west  line  dividing  Mount  'Oilead  into  halves. 
We  except  Bozrah,  which  the  Jerusalem  Talmud  makes  the 
southern  boundary  of  Trachonitis  ("Shibiith,"  vi.,  1,  Gema- 
raj.  There  may  be  much  truth  in  the  remark  of  Lightfoot, 
or  the  author  of  his  index  (i.,  p.  295),  that  Perea,  in  a  limited 
sense,  ''  contained  the  kingdom  of  Sihon,  or  Reuben,  and  a 
part  of  Gad,"  and,  as  such,  extended  to  Pella  on  the  north. 

If  what  we  have  said  before  concerning  Ramath  Mizpeh 
is  true,  the  east  and  Avest  line  dividing  half-Manasseh  from 
Gad  need  not  have  gone  to  the  Jordan  vallej^  and  turned  a 
right  angle,  but  it  could  just  as  well  have  followed  the  line 
of  the  later  Roman  road  between  Gerasa  and  PeUa,  and 
turned  north  after  reaching  the  latter  place. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

Our  Lord  at  Capernaum  and  in  Perea. 

Numerous  cities  in  the  valley  in  ancient  times.  Absence  of  marked 
ruins.  Tells,  or  artificial  mounds.  Excavations  of  Captain  Warren, 
Tell  Arb'ain.  The  Gazawiyeh  Arabs.  Jisr  Mejamia.  Herds  of 
camels.  Dams  for  irrigation.  Land-slide.  Abadiyeh.  Our  Lord  at 
the  Sea  of  Galilee.  Capernaum  a  centre.  Means  of  communication 
with  the  East  and.  West.  A  road  about  the  lake.  Journeying 
around  it.  Places  of  historical  interest.  Focus  of  life  and  prosper- 
ity. Our  Lord  in  Perea,  and  in  the  Jordan  valley.  Khan  Miuieh. 
Lieutenant  Kitchener.  Heat  very  oppressive.  Mule  train.  Camel 
train  with  mill-stones.  PapjTus..  El  Jish.  Kefr  Birim.  Syna- 
gogues.    Mines  at  Jeb'aa.     Beiriit,  and  letters  from  friends. 

Camp  at  Khan  Minieh,  Sunday,  Apiil  8,  1877. 

ALTHOUGH  the  fact  of  the  existence  of  numerous 
cities  in  the  Jordan  valley  is  well  established, 
yet  the  absence  of  any  marked  ruins  is  a  problem  which 
it  is  difficult  for  the  explorer  and  archaeologist  to  solve. 
In  some  cases  here,  and  elsewhere  in  the  country,  where 
we  know  that  a  town  or  city  once  stood,  all  traces  of 
buildings  have  disappeared,  and  it  is  literally  true  that 
not  one  stone  is  left  upon  another. 

In  this  valley,  however,  there  are  a  niimber  of  mounds, 
or  "tells,"  as  they  are  called,  which  are  by  no  means 
the  least  remarkable  of   its  many   features  of   interest, 


OUR  LORD  AT   CAPERNAUM.  449 

and  some  of  which  we  know  to  be  the  sites  of  ancient 
cities.  The  situation  of  these  tells  is  peculiar,  and  deserv- 
ing of  special  notice.  They  appear  for  the  most  part  in 
groups.  There  is  a  group  in  the  Jericho  plain,  near  'Ain  es 
Sultan ;  another  at  Beisan ;  another  near  Lake  Huleh,  the 
Merom  of  the  Bible;  and  on  the  east  side  of  the  river 
there  is  one  group  just  north  of  the  Jabbok,  and  another 
on  the  Shittim  plain  at  the  north  end  of  the  Dead  Sea. 
Besides  these  several  gi'oups,  there  is  another  class,  sit- 
uated in  each  case  at  the  mouth  or  opening  of  the 
valleys  which  ascend  into  the  hills.  As  the  roads  which 
lead  up  into  the  mountains  frequently  follow  the  wadies, 
it  has  been  thought  that  these  mounds  served  in  some 
way  to  guard  the  passes.  Either  the  hill-people  needed 
them,  it  is  argued,  in  order  to  defend  themselves  from 
attacks  by  the  people  of  the  plain,  or  the  people  of 
the  plain  devised  this  means  to  keep  back  incursions 
from  the  mountaineers.  In  addition  to  the  two  classes 
now  mentioned,  there  are  a  few  isolated  tells  at  differ- 
ent points  along  the  valley ;  but  they  are  generally  small, 
and  do  not  appear  to  possess  the  same  amount  of  inter- 
est which  attaches  to  the  others. 

When  it  is  known  that  a  number  of  the  more  important 
of  these  tells  are  wholly  or  in  part  artificial,  curiosity  as 
to  what  they  may  contain  is  at  once  excited.  So  far  as  my 
limited  time  and  means  allowed  me  to  investigate  these 
mounds,  I  found  them  to  be  composed  of  debris,  pottery, 
brick,  and  foundation-waUs.  In  one  of  the  mounds,  the 
Arabs  have,  from  time  to  time,  found  many  articles 
of  pottery  and  glass.  In  another,  the  foundations  of  a 
strong  fortress  appear,  with  the  gateway  quite  perfect.  In 
one  or  more  instances  there  are  supporting  walls  to  the 
sides  of  the  mound,  formed  of  layers  of  large  boulders,  or 
blocks  of  unhewn  stone. 


450  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

These  mounds  vary  somewhat  in  size,  but  it  may  be 
said  that  they  average  about  fifty  feet  in  height  by  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length  and  one  hundred  feet 
in  breadth.  While  some  are  very  much  larger  than  this, 
they  seldom,  if  ever,  rise  to  a  height  above  the  plain  of 
over  fifty  or  sixty  feet.  Captain  Warren  applied  himself 
with  enthusiasm  to  the  work  of  excavating  these  mounds, 
and  entertained  hopes  of  being  able  to  recover  some 
important  relics  of  antiquity.  He  felt  obliged  to  choose 
those  near  'Ain  es  Sultan,  because  it  was  next  to  impossible 
to  raUy  a  sufficient  number  of  workmen  at  any  other  point. 
This  he  regretted,  since  those  of  this  group  were,  "for 
many  reasons,  the  least  satisfactory  for  investigation, 
particularly  because  the  country  around  has  been  in  a 
very  prosperous  condition  iintil  witliin  five  or  six  hundred 
years";  and  in  such  a  region  ancient  remains  are  not  so 
likely  to  exist.  A  great  many  objects  of  glass  and  pottery 
were  found,  however,  in  the  course  of  these  excavations, 
but  most  of  them  decayed  on  being  exposed  to  the  air. 
In  one  mound,  "  at  a  depth  of  eight  feet,  were  found  the 
remains  of  a  large  amphora,  the  neck,  handles,  and  base 
being  entu'c.  It  appeared  to  have  stood  five  feet  high. 
At  a  depth  of  thirty  feet  a  jar  was  found,  Avhich  crumbled 
and  vanished  on  being  touched.  The  whole  of  this  mound 
is  artificial  throughout,  and  there  are  signs  of  human  art 
of  great  antiquity  within  it ;  but  everything,  even  the  sun- 
dried  bricks,  crumbled  away  when  exposed."  In  another 
mound,  "the  brick  walls  are  still  in  situ,  and  have  been 
photographed.  Some  plaster  was  found  with  color  on  it, 
but  when  exposed  it  disappeared."  The  sun-dried  bricks 
measure  fourteen  inches  in  length  by  five  and  a  half  in 
thickness.  Shafts,  sunk  to  a  depth  of  forty  feet,  in  another 
mound,  showed  "every  feign  of  artificial  formation;  but 
everything  crumbled   to   dust."     At   a  depth   of  six  feet 


OUB  LOBB  AT  CAPERNAUM.  451 

below  tlie  surface  of  this  mound,  graves  built  of  brick 
were  found,  with  "bones  heaped  within"  them.  In  one 
case  charred  wood  was  discovered  at  a  depth  of  ten  feet 
below  the  surface.  In  another  case,  ''  at  fifteen  feet  below 
the  surface,  was  found  a  mortar,  about  eighteen  inches  in 
diameter"  ("  Uuderground  Jerusalem,"  pp.  190-197). 

Captain  Warren  remarks  that  the  question  as  to  the 
origin  of  these  mounds  presents  an  interesting  subject  for 
speculation ;  but  he  expresses  his  own  opinion  as  to  their 
purpose  in  the  closing  sentence  of  the  following  quotation : 
"As  a  general  result  on  the  completion  of  these  excava- 
tions, it  may  be  said,  for  a  certainty,  that  these  mounds 
are  artificial  throughout,  and  that,  probably,  they  are  the 
remains  of  ancient  castles"  (p.  196).  Other  theories  exist 
as  to  the  object  of  them,  among  which  it  has  been  pro- 
posed that  their  origin  and  growth  should  be  attributed 
to  the  process  of  brick-making,  can-ied  on  at  these  points 
for  centuries.  To  this  it  is  a  sufficient  answer  to  ask 
what  has  become  of  the  brick.  Captain  Warren  noticed 
this  theory,  but  thought  that  "the  local  indications  were 
all  against  it";  and  the  most  satisfactory  thing  to  do,  no 
doubt,  would  be,  as  he  suggests,  to  select  one  of  the  most 
interesting  and  remove  the  whole  mound. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  these  interesting  remains  of  a 
bygone  race,  or  bygone  races,  cannot  be  thoroughly  ex- 
plored. I  am  confident  that  some  of  them  date  from  the 
period  of  the  Canaanite  occupation  of  the  valley.  Records 
of  the  remote  past  may  be  buried  in  some  of  those  on  which 
cities  once  stood,  and  curiosity  will  never  be  satisfied  until 
the  pick  and  spade  have  opened  up  these  tells  in  every 
part,  and  revealed  whatever  is  hidden  beneath  the  surface. 

From  Tell  Arb'ain  to  Khan  Minieh,  we  were  eight  hours 
and  five  minutes  in  the  saddle. 


452  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

We  were  up  at  5.30  A.  M.  It  was  a  splendid  morning ; 
the  fields  were  fresh  with  rich  carpets  of  flowers,  and  the 
sunrise  over  the  eastern  hills  was  inspiring.  To  the  west 
was  Tabor  and  the  mountains  of  Samaria,  Bethshean  and 
its  plain,  and  about  us  the  great  vaUey  stretching  to  the 
north  and  south.  Abdullah,  sheikh  of  the  Gazawiyeh 
Arabs,  and  one  of  his  friends,  accompanied  us  on  our 
journey  for  an  hour  or  more,  and  then  bade  us  good-by, 
with  many  blessings.  "We  crossed  Wady  'Arab  not  far 
from  where  it  enters  the  Jordan.  It  is  a  large  stream, 
and  the  first  one  south  of  Wady  Menadireh,  and  our  point 
of  crossing  was  about  two  or  two  and  a  half  miles  from 
TeU  Arb'ain. 

Eight  miles  from  Tell  Arb'ain  we  reached  Jisr  Mejamia. 
Basalt  boulders  cover  the  ground  on  the  east  of  the  river, 
and  the  same  kind  of  rock  appears  also  on  the  west  side. 
Here  are  the  remains  of  a  large  khan,  and  the  bridge 
shows  signs  of  having  been  a  much  finer  structure  than 
it  is  at  present. 

At  the  coffee-house,  where  were  some  soldiers,  oiir 
dog,  "Fox,"  stopped,  and  we  never  saw  him  again.  He 
was  a  fine,  intelligent  fellow,  and  I  had  become  very  much 
attached  to  him.  I  suppose  the  soldiers  confined  him,  or 
coaxed  him  to  remain  till  it  was  too  late  to  foUow  us. 
After  we  had  reached  the  southern  end  of  the  Lake  of 
Tiberias,  we  missed  our  faithful  animal  and  sent  back 
one  of  our  servants  two  or  three  miles  to  see  if  he  could 
find  him  on  the  road;  but  without  success.  I  was  sorry 
to  lose  him,  for  he  was  very  serviceable  as  a  guard  at 
night. 

In  the  fertile  land  south  of  Jisr  Mejamia,  there  were 
fifteen  hundred  or  more  camels  feeding,  which  belonged  to 
the  Beni  Sakhr.  This  was  not  their  country,  but  they  had 
obtained  permission  of  the  government  to  pasture  their 


OUB  LOBD  AT  CAPERNAUM.  453 

camels  here.  These,  like  the  great  herd  we  saw  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Jabbok  last  year,  were  mostly  females,  with 
their  young. 

About  haK-way  from  TeU  Arb'ain  to  Jisr  Mejamia,  we 
passed  a  small,  apparently  unimportant  ruin,  called 
Khurbet  MaUas.  To-day  the  weeds  and  thistles,  in  some 
instances,  seemed  more  gigantic  than  ever.  I  have  before 
said  they  were  as  high  as  my  shoulders  on  horseback,  but 
to-day  they  were,  in  some  instances,  as  high  as  the  top  of 
my  head  on  horseback.  Here  is  a  mine  of  wealth  in  this 
fertile  soil,  and  some  day  its  resources  will  be  developed 
by  enterprise  and  intelligent  husbandry.  One-half  to  two- 
thirds  of  this  valley,  even  without  uTigatioii,  is  ready  for 
the  farmer  now,  and  very  much  of  it  is  cultivated  by  the 
natives  after  their  fashion. 

The  dams  which  the  natives  make  are  always  slight 
structures.  They  go  far  up-stream,  where  they  make  a 
smaU  one,  and  expend  theu*  money  on  long  canals.  This 
makes  less  expense  for  a  dam,  gives  them  greater  head  of 
water,  and  enables  them  to  carry  it  to  fields  which  other- 
wise would  not  be  used.  Only  about  one  mile  below  the 
point  where  the  Jordan  issues  from  the  Sea  of  Oalilee, 
there  is  a  dam  across  the  Jordan  which  feeds  canals  on  the 
east  side. 

Above  Jisr  Mejamia,  at  the  point  where  the  Jordan  and 
the  Menadireh  unite,  it  is  difficult  to  teU  which  stream  is 
the  larger.  A  large  section  of  the  country  is  drained  by 
the  Menadireh,  which  in  extent  and  volume  is  to  be  re- 
garded as  the   second  river  of  Palestine. 

Between  the  bridge  and  Abadiyeh  there  had  been  an 
extensive  land-slide.  The  river  had  undermined  the  allu- 
vial hill,  and  several  thousand  cubic  yards  of  earth  had 
fallen  into  the  stream.  The  Jordan  was  choked,  and  the 
water  crowded  on  to  the  flat  land  to  the  east.     The  trav- 


454  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

elled  road  was  gone,  aud  in  its  place  was  a  great  gap  in 
tlie  hill,  where  a  wall  of  earth  rose  perjjendicularly  one 
hundred  feet  above  the  water.  We  made  a  detour  up  over 
the  hOl  and  so  avoided  the  difficulty.  I  have  seen  several 
places  this  year  where  there  have  been  land-slides.  In  one 
case,  great  rocks,  forty  feet  long  and  thii'ty  feet  Avide,  had 
fallen. 

The  view,  as  we  approached  the  village  of  Abadiyeh 
from  the  south,  is  worthy  of  being  painted.  Between  us 
and  the  village,  for  nearly  two  miles,  were  level,  green 
fields,  with  the  river  on  the  right  and  the  mountain  on  the 
left.  The  houses  of  the  village  were  clustered  about  an 
eminence  shaped  like  a  sugar-loaf,  on  which  stood  same 
tall  and  graceful  palms.  Numerous  trees  in  the  village 
partly  covered  the  houses,  while  far  beyond  in  the  north 
was  the  great  dome  of  Hermon,  white  mth  snow.  The 
effect  of  the  whole  was  unusually  fine. 

Viewed  in  the  light  of  history,  the  word  Galilee  is  one 
of  the  most  inspuing  that  the  lips  of  men  can  utter.  The 
region  itself  deserves  attention,  because,  with  the  exception 
of  the  country  east  of  the  Jordan,  it  was  the  most  fertile 
district  of  Palestine.  The  Phoenicians,  a  rich  and  com- 
mercial people  on  the  coast,  drew  theu'  supplies  of  grain, 
oil,  and  fruit  from  this  province,  and  Josephus  has 
described  it  as  being  very  thickly  inhabited.  In  Nazareth, 
a  mountain  "  city,"  "  beautiful  for  situation,"  which  had 
probably  fifteen  thousand  or  twenty  thousand  inhabitants, 
our  Lord  grew  to  manhood.  Sepphoris,  the  capital  of 
Galilee,  three  miles  distant,  was  within  sight  of  the  hill  at 
Nazareth,  and  every  day  of  Chi'ist's  life  he  could  look 
down  on  the  plain  of  Esdraelon,  Mount  Carmel,  and  the 
broad  Mediterranean,  or  up  to  Tabor  and  Mount  Hermon. 

But  the  Sea  of  Galilee  is  specially  interesting  to  the 


OUB  LOBD  AT   CAPERNAUM.  455 

Christian  from  the  fact  that  Christ,  when  he  began  his 
public  ministry,  left  Nazareth  and  took  up  his  residence  at 
Capernaum,  then  a  stirring  and  beautiful  town  upon  its 
shores.  This  was  an  important  centre  of  business  an^ 
travel.  Men  from  all  sections  of  the  country,  and  from 
foreign  parts  as  well,  would  be  found  here,  and  likewise 
people  of  every  class,  and  from  this  point  news  of  the 
wonderful  Healer  and  Teacher  would  go  south  to  Jeru- 
salem and  Egypt,  west  to  the  seaports  of  Cesarea  and 
Ptolemais,  and  thence  to  Rome,  and  east  to  Damascus  and 
the  Euphrates.  In  those  active  times  news  was  carried 
farther  and  travelled  more  rapidly  than  is  commonly  sup- 
posed. The  Mediterranean  was  covered  with  ships,  long 
caravans  freighted  with  treasures  came  from  the  East 
and  returned  thither  again,  and  on  the  substantial  Roman 
roads  which  covered  the  country,  men  travelled  one  hun- 
dred, and  sometimes  two  hundred,  miles  in  twenty-four 
hours.  We  can  say  it  was  a  part  of  the  Divine  plan  that 
our  Lord  should  locate  Himself  in  such  a  centre  as  this. 

This  interesting  sea,  or  lake,  lies  in  a  great  basin  which 
is  sunk  into  the  earth,  so  that  its  surface  is  more  than  six 
hundred  feet  below  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean.  It  is 
about  thirteen  miles  long  by  about  seven  broad.  It  is 
surrounded  by  hills,  except  at  the  south  end,  where  it 
touches  the  Jordan  valley.  These  hills  are  at  such  a 
distance  from  the  lake  as  to  leave  a  belt  of  land,  generally 
level,  all  about  it,  which  at  some  points  broadens  out  into 
large  plains  such  as  those  of  Gennesaret  and  Batiha, 
and  along  this  a  good  carriage-road  could  be  built  with 
very  little  difficulty,  so  far  as  natural  obstructions  are  con- 
cerned. Such  a  road  would  be  between  thirty-five  and 
forty  miles  in  length,  and  would  be  nearly  level  all  the 
way.  Perhaps  it  is  not  neeessar}^  to  say  that  there  are  no 
roads  of  this  description  in  Palestine  (except  from  Jeru- 


456  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

salem  to  Joppa,  and  from  Haifa  to  Nazareth),  l)ut  only- 
winding,  rocky  paths,  worn  l)v  the  feet  of  goats,  donkeys, 
and  camels,  and  washed  and  made  dangerous  hy  the  winter 
rains. 

Let  US  suppose  such  a  carriage-road  to  exist,  and  that 
we  are  to  spend  a  day,  or  a  part  of  one,  in  a  drive 
entirely  around  the  Sea  of  Galilee.  We  wUl  start  from 
Tiberias.  The  old  Tiberias,  Avhich  was  built  by  Herod 
Antipas,  during  the  last  part  of  Christ's  life,  is  entirely  in 
ruins;  the  modern  town  which  travellers  \'isit,  lying  to 
the  north  of  that,  is  a  filthy  place,  occupied  by  Moslems 
and  Christians,  and  also  by  six  hundred  to  one  thousand 
Jews.  From  this  place  we  go  north,  and  after  a  ride 
of  three  miles  reach  Me j  del,  which  represents  the  Mag- 
dala  of  Christ's  time,  and  is  known  wherever  the  New 
Testament  is  read  as  the  home  of  Mary  Magdalene.  As 
we  approach  the  place  we  are  greeted  by  the  howling  of 
dogs,  which  rush  out  as  though  they  would  devour  us. 
We  also  see  a  score  or  more  of  saucy,  half -naked  children, 
and  the  people  whom  we  meet  are  poor  and  degraded. 
The  village  is  insignificant,  being  only  a  collection  of  huts 
and  hovels ;  but  it  stands  at  the  southern  end  of  the 
charming  plain  of  Gennesaret,  over  the  whole  of  which 
we  can  look  at  a  glance.  As  we  journey  towards  the 
northern  end,  we  observe  on  our  left  a  strange  sight.  The 
mountain  appears  to  have  parted  asunder  and  left  a  great 
chasm,  the  walls  of  which  are  perpendicular,  and  full  of 
caves,  which,  not  long  before  the  birth  of  Christ,  were 
occupied  by  robbers,  whom  Herod  the  Great  had  much 
difficulty  in  subduing.  Along  the  bottom  of  that  chasm 
ran,  in  Christ's  time,  the  main  road  from  Cana  of  Gali- 
lee, Nazareth,  Tabor,  and  the  region  to  the  south-west, 
to  the  north  end  of  the  lake,  and  thence  to  Damascus. 
Christ  would  pass  along  this  road  in  going  down  from 


OUB  LORD  AT  CAPERNAUM.  457 

Nazareth  to  Capernaum.  This  plain  is  watered  by  sev- 
eral streams,  and  is  covered,  in  portions  at  least,  with 
fine  wheat  fields.  It  was  always  celebrated  as  one  of  the 
most  fertile  spots  in  Palestine.  Here  that  ''rivalry  of 
the  seasons"  took  place  year  after  year,  which  Josephus 
describes  with  so  much  enthusiasm  ("  Wars,''  iii.,  10,  8), 
where  Nature  did  "  violence  to  herself  in  bringing  together 
fruits  of  discordant  habits,"  where  everything  grew  to 
perfection,  and  where  grapes  and  figs  ripened  "  during  ten 
months  of  the  year  without  intermission."  In  praising  the 
productions  of  Gennesaret,  the  old  rabbis  used  to  ask  why 
its  fruits  were  not  found  in  Jerusalem  at  the  tune  of  the 
feasts.  And  the  reply  was  made  :  "  So  that  no  one  may 
be  tempted  to  come  to  the  feasts  merely  for  the  sake  of 
enjoying  those  fruits/'  The  soil  of  this  plain  is  as  fertile 
now  as  it  was  eighteen  centuries  ago. 

Two  and  a  half  or  three  miles  from  Me j  del  we  arrive  at 
Khan  Minieh,  or  'Ain  et  Tin.  Here  is  a  large  fountain, 
very  near  the  water  of  the  lake,  and  about  it  reeds  and 
papyrus  grow  abundantly.  Back  of  it  there  is  a  ruined 
khan.  Here  the  Roman  road,  coming  from  the  south, 
touched  the  lake,  and  can  stiU  be  traced.  Here  on  a 
sharp  bluff  appear  to  be  the  remains  of  a  castle.  Under- 
neath a  swell  in  the  plain  a  town  is  buried,  and  last  year, 
and  again  the  present  year,  I  have  seen  its  walls  exposed. 
At  this  point  I  would  locate  Capernaum.  Where  the 
Roman  road  touched  the  lake  would  be  the  proper  place 
for  a  custom-house  and  a  garrison.  This  bluff  or  ledge  of 
rocks  comes  close  to  the  water's  edge,  and  our  carriage- 
road  would  turn  a  little  to  the  left  and  go  over  and  around 
it.  In  former  times,  an  aqueduct  was  cut  in  the  face  of 
this  rock,  sixty  feet .  above  the  lake,  but  it  is  now  dry,  and 
is  used  as  a  foot-path  for  men  and  animals.  At  this  place 
Christ  found  Matthew  sitting  at  the  receipt  of  customs, 
20 


458  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

and  this  is  the  scene  of  some  of  our  Lord's  wonderful 
works.  Beyond  Kiian  Minieh,  or  the  bluif  near  it,  is  a 
small  plain,  on  the  farther  side  of  which  are  ruins  and 
a  fountain  caUed  'Ain  Tabigha.  Some  have  thought 
that  this  was  the  site  of  Bethsaida,  the  home  of  Andrew 
and  Peter.  The  name  Bethsaida  means  a  j)laee  of  hunting 
or  fishing.  Near  here,  Josephus,  in  the  Jev/ish  war,  had  a 
skirmish  with  the  enemy  and  was  wounded  in  consequence 
of  his  horse  becoming  mired  in  the  soft  plain. 

About  two  and  a  half  miles  from  Khan  Minieh  we  reach 
the  ruins  of  Tell  Hum,  which  some  have  thought  to  be 
Capernaum.  It  has,  however,  no  remains  of  a  garrison, 
is  two  or  more  miles  from  the  Roman  road  on  which 
the  custom-house  where  Matthew  was  would  naturally  l^e, 
and  its  synagogue,  which  is  appealed  to  as  evidence,  dates, 
pi'obably,  from  the  second  ceutiuy. 

To  our  left,  on  the  hiU,  a  little  more  than  a  mile  distant, 
but  not  in  sight,  is  a  nun  called  Kerazeh,  which  has  been 
suggested  as  the  site  of  Chorazin. 

Two  and  a  half  miles  beyond  TeU  Huin  is  the  Jordan. 
It  is  not  very  wide  here,  and,  unless  during  high  water, 
can  be  forded  at  the  point  where  it  joins  the  lake.  After 
crossing,  there  are,  on  our  left,  the  ruins  of  the  Eastern 
Bethsaida,  which  Herod  Philip,  a  brother  of  Herod 
Antipas,  enlarged  and  called  Julias,  and  where  he  prepared 
for  himself  a  costly  tomb  of  white  marble,  in  which  he  was 
buried,  A.  D.  33. 

From  the  east  bank  of  the  Jordan  we  begin  to  cross 
the  large  plain  of  Batiha,  resembling  Genuesaret  on  the 
western  shore,  where  it  is  supposed  that  the  miracle  of 
feeding  the  five  thousand  took  place  (Luke  ix.,  11-]  7).  It 
is  one  and  a  half  miles  wide  by  three  miles  long,  has  water- 
courses and  reservoirs,  and  is  very  fertile.  About  six 
miles  from  the  Jordan  we  come  to  the  ruins  of  Kersa,  on 


OUB   LOBD  AT   CAPERNAUM.  459 

Wady  Semakh,  a  little  north,  of  a  point  directly  opposite 
Tiberias.  Here  the  hills  retreat  from  the  shore,  and  there 
are  broad  fields  about  the  mouth  of  th.is  wady,  on  the 
south  side  of  which  are  extensive  ruins.  Kersa  can  just 
as  well  be  pronounced  Gersa,  for  the  letters  A-  and  g 
interchange  in  the  speech  of  the  people.  There  can  be  no 
doubt  that  this  name  is  a  remnant  of  Gergesa,  and  that 
this  region  was  "  the  country  of  the  Gergesenes "  (Matt. 
viii.,  28)  which  Christ  visited.  No  precipice  exists  at  any 
point  along  this  coast,  and  the  New  Testament  narrative 
does  not  require  us  to  expect  one.  At  one  point,  however, 
the  slope  inclines  more  rapidly  than  anywhere  else,  and  on 
this,  or  in  the  hills  just  behind  it,  the  swine  might  have 
been  feeding.  Mark  and  Luke  both  say  that  Christ  went 
"  to  the  country  of  the  Gadarenes."  But  Gadara  was  then 
a  large  and  flourishing  city,  and,  as  was  frequently  the  case, 
may  have  had  jiuisdiction  over  a  portion  of  the  adjacent 
territory.  One  phrase,  of  those  just  quoted,  may  have 
indicated  the  general  district,  and  the  other  some  local 
section  within  it.  Here  the  herd  of  swine  perished,  while 
the  person  possessed  with  devils  was  restored  to  a  sound 
mind,  and  became  a  disciple  of  Christ.  Overhanging 
this  very  plain  are  the  ruins  of  Gamala,  which  was  one  of 
the  largest  cities  and  strongest  fortresses  of  the  country, 
and  its  massive  walls  and  towers  must  have  been  very 
imposing  when  looked  at  from  the  lake  or  plain  below. 

We  journey  on,  and,  after  ten  miles,  we  have  reached 
the  southern  end  of  the  lake,  crossed  the  entire  Jordan 
plain,  and  approached  the  river  near  the  point  where  it 
leaves  the  Sea  of  Galilee  to  go  down  its  strange  coui'se  to 
the  Dead  Sea,  far  in  the  south.  Here  was  a  bridge,  now 
in  ruins,  that,  when  built,  was  a  triumph  of  engineer- 
ing skill  of  which  the  country  might  be  proud.  If,  from 
this   point,  we   should   look   back   to   the   south-east,   wo 


460  EAST   OF  THE  J  ORB  AN. 

should  see  Gadara,  "with  its  theatres  and  temples  perched 
upon  the  hills.  This  road  was  thronged  in  those  days, 
not  only  by  merchants,  and  soldiers,  and  persons  engaged 
in  public  or  official  business,  but  by  thousands  who  were 
seeking  the  hot  springs  of  Gadara,  only  two  hours  dis- 
tant, which  formed  then  one  of  the  most  favorite  resorts 
for  health  and  pleasure  in  all  the  East. 

Soon  after  crossing  this  bridge,  we  come  to  a  great 
mound  on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  which  is  now  called 
Kerak.  This  name  is  a  remnant  of  Tarichea,  a  large  and 
strong  city,  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  valley,  or 
ditch,  in  which  was  water,  and  across  which  ran  a  cause- 
way. This  place  was  noted  for  its  fisheries  and  its  ship- 
building. Fifty-one  years  before  Christ,  Cassius  took  this 
city  and  sold  thirty  thousand  of  its  inhabitants  into  sla- 
very. It  suffered  also  very  much  in  the  Jewish  war.  Six 
thousand  of  its  robust  young  men  were  sent  to  Corinth, 
Greece,  to  work  on  the  canal  through  the  isthmus  there, 
and  many  thousands  more  were  reduced  to  a  condition  of 
servitude.  Here  also  occurred  a  bloody  sea-fight  between 
the  Romans  and  the  Jews,  in  which  the  latter  were  beaten, 
after  four  thousand  to  six  thousand  of  them  had  been 
slaughtered. 

Four  miles  farther  on  our  journey  we  reach  the  hot 
baths  of  Tiberias,  more  than  a  mile  south  of  the  present 
city,  and  at  the  south  end  of  the  ancient  town.  This  place 
was  called  Bethmaus,  and  possessed  a  synagogue.  These 
springs  were  known  far  and  wide,  and  were  much  fre- 
quented by  the  rich  and  poor  alike.  Here  begins  the  old 
Tiberias,  and  beyond  that  is  the  modern  city,  our  starting- 
point.  Upon  the  shores  of  this  lake,  around  which  we  have 
now  journeyed,  there  were  in  Christ's  time  no  less  than 
nine  cities,  while  numerous  villages  dotted  the  plains  and 
hill-sides  around.     All  the  sxuTounding  I'egion  was  highly 


OUR  LORD  AT  CAPERNAUM.  461 

cultivated,  and  the  lake  itself  was  covered  with  ships  and 
boats.  The  lake  was  the  pride  of  Palestine,  an  object  in 
which  the  Jews  took  special  delight,  and  they  speak  of  its 
"  gracefully  flowing  "  or  "  gliding  "  waters. 

Besides  the  places  already  mentioned,  one  standing  at 
Tiberias  and  looking  east  can  see,  beyond  Gamala,  and 
only  forty  minutes  from  it,  the  town  called  Fik.  It  is  the 
Aphek  of  I.  Kings  xx.,  26,  near  which  Israel  slew  one 
hundred  thousand  Syrians  in  one  day,  while  twenty-seven 
thousand  that  fled  to  the  city  perished  by  the  falling  of 
the  wall  upon  them.  The  Romans  called  this  place  Hip- 
pos, and  the  Jews  called  it  Susitha ;  but  its  present  name 
is  the  ancient  Hebrew  name,  only  slightly  altered. 

But  the  grandest  object  in  all  the  landscape  about  this 
lake  is  Mount  Hermon,  thirty  miles  distant,  rising  ten 
thousand  feet  above  it,  majestic  and  sublime. 

A  person  at  the  present  day,  visiting  the  Sea  of  Galilee 
for  the  first  time,  would  be  impressed  with  its  deadness 
and  desolation.  The  only  inhabited  places  now  about  it 
are  Tiberias  and  Me j  del.  Capernaum,  Bethsaida,  Chorazin, 
Julias,  Gergesa,  Gamala,  Tarichea,  Bethmaus,  and  old 
Tiberias,  are  either  piles  of  ruins  or  are  wellnigh  ob- 
literated by  the  debris  that  has  for  centuries  been  accu- 
mulating above  them.  There  are  only  a  few  boats  on 
the  lake,  and  these,  together  with  a  few  ploughmen  in 
the  fields,  and  the  cattle  and  tents  of  the  Bedawin  on 
the  hill-sides,  are  all  that  give  life  to  these  shores  that 
were  once  thronged  with  intelligent,  busy  men,  and  cov- 
ered with  the  marks  of  civilization  and  prosperity.  The 
contrast  between  the  present  and  the  former  condition  of 
this  region  is  painful  to  one  who  knows  its  history.  But 
of  this  the  natives  have  no  idea ;  they  are  neither  inspired 
nor  depressed  by  memories,  and  seem  to  be  content  with 
their  wi-etchedness. 


462  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

This  region  is  to  me  one  of  the  most  sacred  and  delight- 
ful on  earth.  No  place  that  men  have  consecrated  brings 
me  so  near  to  Chi-ist  as  a  day  spent  in  walking  and  medi- 
tating on  these  lonely  shores.  While  carrying  on  my 
work  east  of  the  Jordan,  and  in  the  Jordan  valley,  I  have 
made  an  effort  to  spend  the  Sabbath  by  this  lake  whenever 
it  was  possible  to  do  so.  I  have  been  across  it  many  times, 
and  examined  every  locality  north  and  south  of  it  and  on 
both  its  eastern  and  western  shores.  I  have  seen  it  in 
calm  and  storm,  in  summer  and  winter,  and  its  beauty 
grows  upon  me.  One  can  hardly  appreciate  how  lovety 
and  picturesque  the  Sea  of  G-alilee  really  is  in  any  single 
visit.  If  an  artist  wishes  to  make  an  album  of  sacred 
pictures  which  aU  the  world  would  admire,  let  him  go 
to  this  hallowed  lake  and  spend  weeks  in  studying  it 
from  different  points.  While  the  pictures  might  have 
a  general  resemblance,  they  would  be  remarkable  by  theii- 
variety,  and  each  would  possess  elements  of  grandeur 
and  beauty  not  possessed  by  the  others. 

Christ  also  visited  Perea,  the  country  east  of  the  Jordan. 
Doubtless  he  followed  the  main  road  to  the  hot  springs  on 
the  Yarmuk,  and  thence  to  the  beautiful  city  of  Gadara  on 
the  mountain  above  them.  He  may  have  gone  a  little  far- 
ther east,  past  Capitolias  and  Dium,  cities  belonging  to  the 
DecapoHs,  and  turned  south  through  a  densely  populated 
region  to  Gerasa,  whence,  by  one  of  the  two  routes  before 
indicated,  he  would  return  to  the  valley  after  his  mission 
had  been  accomplished.  It  was  in  Perea  that  the  "  seventy 
disciples  "  were  commissioned  to  labor,  and  then*  welcome 
and  success  must  have  been  unusual,  for  it  is  reported  of 
them  that  they  "  returned  again  with  joy,  sajdng,  Lord, 
even  the  devils  are  subject  unto  us  through  thy  name " 
(Luke  X,,  1,  17).  The  co^nnection  of  our  Saviour  with  this 
region  opens  up  an  interesting  field  of  inquiry.     He  may 


OUR  LOUD  AT  CAPERNAUM.  463 

have  foreseen  tliat  in  its  rich  cities  and  among  its  throngs 
of  hnnian  beings,  his  Gospel  was  soon  to  triumph  in  a 
remarkable  manner;  for  it  is  true  that  in  Bashan, —  a  coun- 
try which  we  are  now  accustomed  to  speak  of  as  a  desert, — 
Christianity,  in  the  early  centuries  of  our  era,  had  one  of 
its  most  important  strongholds. 

In  my  judgment  there  is  a  special  and  tender  interest  in 
the  fact  that  our  Lord,  probably  on  several  occasions, 
passed  through  the  Jordan  valley,  and  spent  a  longer  or  a 
shorter  time  in  some  of  its  numerous  towns.  Beautiful 
and  wealthy  Bella  itself  may  have  been  favored  by  one  or 
more  visits  from  the  Master.  A  fact  memorable  to  Chris- 
tians is,  that  at  the  time  of  the  destruction  of  Jerusalem 
by  Titus,  the  believers  who  dwelt  in  the  doomed  city, 
"  having  been  commanded  by  a  divine  revelation,  *  *  * 
removed  and  dwelt  at  a  certain  town  beyond  the  Jor- 
dan, called  Bella."  This  is  the  statement  of  Eusebius  ;  but 
Epiphanius  writes  "  that  they  removed  because  they  had 
been  forewarned  by  Christ  himself  of  the  approaching 
siege."  Seventy  years  later,  A.  D.  135,  when  Hadrian 
rebuilt  Jerusalem,  after  it  had  been  taken  a  second  time, — 
changing  even  its  sacred  name  to  iElia, — the  Christians 
there  again  sought  refuge  from  the  heathen  oppressor  in 
this  elegant  city  in  the  Jordan  valley.  These  circum- 
stances prove  nothing  with  regard  to  Christ's  visiting  the 
place ;  still  there  must  have  been  a  reason  why  the  Chris- 
tians resorted  hither,  and  it  cannot  be  rash  to  suppose  that 
our  Lord  had  been  here  before  them,  and  that  his  preach- 
ing had  met  with  favor  and  success.  He  saw  the  storms 
that  were  coming  upon  his  country  in  the  first  and  second 
Jewish  wars  with  Rome  (A.  D.  66-70  and  130-134),  and 
the  trials  to  which  his  followers  would  be  exposed,  and 
his  forethought  may  have  extended  even  to  providing  an 
asylum  for  them  when  these  devastating  tempests  should 
burst  upon  the  land. 


464  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

BEiRtrT,  Thursday,  April  12,  1877. 

At  Khan  Minieh  (April  8)  the  weather  was  becoming 
very  hot.  It  was  90°  in  our  tent.  Lieutenant  Kitch- 
ener found  it  102°  in  the  shade  at  Tell  Hum.  His  camp 
was  at  Khan  Jubb  Yusef,  but  he,  with  his  companion, 
Captain  Hamilton  (not  a  member  of  the  English  survey 
party),  had  visited  Tell  Hum,  and  had  experienced  great 
inconvenience  from  the  heat.  We  received  a  pleasant 
call  from  them  towards  evening,  and  the  next  day  called 
on  them  in  their  camp.  "We  saw  portions  of  their  work, 
and  examined  some  of  their  new  books  which  they  had 
brought  from  England.  While  sitting  in  my  tent  the 
j)erspiration  rolled  from  my  face  so  as  to  soil  and  injure 
the  books  I  tried  to  read,  and  the  paper  on  which  I 
attempted  to  write  notes  and  letters.  In  fact,  this  is 
the  only  time  when  I  have  been  forced  to  suspend  work 
of  this  kind  from  such  a  cause.  At  night,  after  such 
a  heated  day,  it  was  dehghtful  to  bathe  in  the  quiet, 
refreshing  water  of  the  lake. 

A  long  mule-train  passed  our  camp  very  early  Sunday 
morning,  on  its  way  to  Damascus.  To  these  people,  who 
have  never  seen  railways  and  steam-cars,  or  our  heavj- 
freight- wagons,  such  a  sight  as  this,  fifty  or  sixty  mules, 
all  loaded,  must  look  like  business.  Such  caravans  fol- 
low, to-day,  the  line  of  the  Roman  road,  which  I  have 
described  as  existing  in  Christ's  time.  Later  in  the 
day  a  camel-train  passed,  going  in  the  opposite  direction. 
They  had  come  from  the  Hauran,  and  were  loaded  with 
mill-stones,  which  they  were  taking  to  Acre,  on  the  sea- 
coast. 

The  papyrus  about  the  spring  at  Khan  Minieh  is  now 
very  green  and  beautiful ;  it  is  in  flower  and  suitable  for 
pressing.     Dr.  Birch,  of  the  British  Museum,  made  me 


OUR  LORD  AT  CAPERNAUM.  405 

promise  that  I  would  bring  Mm  some  specimens  from  this 
place,  and  from  the  Huleh,  and  I  secured  for  him  some 
excellent  heads.* 

Near  El  Jish  there  is  a  large  fountain  or  pond,  which 
occupies  an  extinct  crater.  The  rock  in  the  vicinity  is 
basalt,  and  the  whole  region  is  interesting  from  a  geologi- 
cal point  of  view,  as  well  as  historically.  It  is  also  rich 
and  well  cultivated. 

At  Kefr  Birim,  which  is  a  Maronite  village  of  about 
one  hundred  famihes,  the  inhabitants  do  not  often  see 
foreigners,  and  they  crowded  about  our  tents  in  swarms. 
Men,  women,  children,  babies,  donkeys,  and  even  two  or 
three  priests,  came  in  turn  to  pay  visits  to  us  or  our  camp. 
The  priests  were  very  obliging,  and  went  with  us  to 
examine  the  two  ancient  synagogues  which  exist  here. 

Lieutenant  Conder,  of  the  English  survey  party,  has 
made  a  special  study  of  the  ruined  synagogues  in  Galilee, 
and  is  of  the  opinion  that  none  of  them  date  from  a 
period  earlier  than  the  second  century  of  our  era. 

Of  these  two  synagogues,  one  is  in  the  village,  while 
the  other  is  at  quite  a  distance  from  it,  and  stands  alone  in 
the  fields.  In  that  one  which  is  the  better  preserved  there 
are  Doric  columns,  and  some  fine  ornamentation  of  grapes 
and  leaves,  and  other  carved  work,  on  the  sides  and  above 
the  doors.  The  Hebrew  inscriptions  here  have  been  copied 
and  published  by  Renan  in  the  "Journal  Asiatique"  for 
1864.  The  squared  stones  are  noticeable  from  the  great 
variety  of  sizes;  in  good  Roman  work  the  size  of  the 
stones  is  quite  uniform.  While  these  had  the  general 
appeai*ance  of  Roman  work,  some  of  them  were  very 
large  and  others  quite  smaU.  At  this  place  I  secured  a 
few  good  coins. 

*  These  I  subsequently  placed  in  liis  hands  when  passing  through 
London  on  my  way  to  America. 

20* 


466  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

El  Jish,  which  is  in  sight  from  this  village,  appears  to 
be  about  half  an  hour  distant,  but  it  is  more  than  that, 
because  the  road  leading  to  it  winds  so  much.  At  some 
points  in  the  hills  between  Kefr  Birim  and  Kana,  on 
the  way  to  Tyre,  there  are  groves  of  fine  olive-trees. 
These  sturdy  trees  cover  the  rocks  and  beautify  the  land- 
scapes, which  would  otherwise  appear  barren  and  forbid- 
ding. The  -air  of  these  mountains  of  Upper  Galilee  is 
very  fresh  and  invigorating  compared  with  the  sweltering 
heat  of  the  Jordan  valley,  or  such  as  we  experienced  at 
Khan  Minieh.  There,  even  our  horses  and  animals 
suffered,  as  well  as  ourselves. 

We  had  hoped  to  visit,  on  our  way  home,  Jeb'aa,  three 
or  four  hours  in  the  hills  inland  from  Sidon,  where  some 
mines  have  been  opened,  but  were  obliged  to  relinquish 
the  plan  by  the  pressure  of  other  duties. 

The  distance  from  Khan  Minieh  to  Kefr  Birim  we  made 
in  six  hours  and  ten  minutes;  from  Birim  to  Tyre,  past 
Rumaish  and  Kana,  in  seven  hours  and  fifty  minutes; 
from  Tyre  to  Sidon,  in  seven  hours  and  fifteen  minutes ; 
from  Sidon  to  Beirut,  in  six  hours  and  thirty  minutes.  In 
Beirut  I  met  among  others  the  gentlemen  of  the  Advi- 
sory Committee,  and  found  thirty-eight  days'  accumida- 
tion  of  letters  and  papers  from  friends  in  America  and 
Europe  awaiting  me,  and,  as  soon  as  my  duties  would 
allow,  I  seated  myself  to  the  pleasant  task  of  reading 
them. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

Arab   Life   in   the   Desert. 

Claims  of  Moab,  Gilead,  and  Bashan  upon  our  attention.  Number  of 
square  miles.  Old  Testament  history.  The  land  of  tents  and 
moving  caravans.  Safety  in  the  Bedawin  country.  Peculiar 
impressions.  Tents  of  the  Arabs.  Beds.  The  word  "  home  "  to  an 
Arab.  Tribes  connected  with.  Numbers.  A  moving  caravan  a 
grotesque  sight.  Distance  travelled  in  one  day.  Some  luxui'ies  in 
their  life.  Questions  of  labor,  food,  and  war.  Legitimate  business. 
Carrying  trade.  Eaising  camels.  Little  hunting  done.  The  Beda- 
win despise  maniial  labor.  How  their  farming  is  carried  on.  Grain 
stored.  Experience  in  the  theatre  at  Amman.  Cooking  and  dishes. 
Excellent  coffee.  Ceremony  of  making  it.  At  a  great  feast.  Warfare. 
Resembles  Homeric  fighting.  Almost  bloodless  wars.  No  compro- 
mise. Blood-feuds.  Old  battle-ground.  An  invitation  to  a  battle ! 
Bone-snatching. 

THE  country  which  stretches  south  from  Damascus  to 
the  Arabian  desert,  and  from  the  Jordan  and  the 
Gilead  hills  eastward  to  the  great  desert  of  the  Euphrates, 
is,  in  many  respects,  one  of  the  most  interesting  on  the 
globe.  Travellers,  however,  on  account  of  the  peril, 
seldom  visit  it,  and  even  the  explorers  who  have  ventured 
to  go  among  its  wonderful  ruins  are  likewise  few. 

In  the  Old  Testament  these  lands  are  spoken  of  as  Moab, 
Grilead,  and  Bashan.  They  are  widely  known  at  the  present 
time  as  the  Hauran  desert.  Bashan  is,  for  the  most  part, 
quite  level,  and  in   some  sections  rolling;    while  Gilead 


468  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

possesses  hills,  valleys,  gentle  slopes,  and  cultivated  fields, 
which  form  charming  and  park-like  scenery.  Above  these 
hills,  valleys,  and  plains  the  sky  is  fair  by  day,  and  the 
heavens  at  night  beam  with  a  brilliancy  such  as  is  wit- 
nessed only  in  an  Eastern  cUme.  In  ancient  times  this 
vast  region  was  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  populous  on 
the  globe.  This  fact  is  attested  by  the  multitude  of  ruins 
which  dot  the  surface  at  the  present  day.  I  have  before 
mentioned  that  from  a  single  outlook  I  have  counted  as 
many  as  forty  ruined  cities  and  towns.  This  region, 
embracing  six  thousand  to  ten  thousand  square  miles, 
covered  once  with  flourishing  cities,  inhabited  by  an 
intelligent  and  busy  people,  crossed  in  many  directions 
by  routes  of  commerce  and  travel,  is  now  practically  a 
desert,  over  which  the  wild  tribes  roam  in  search  of  past- 
ure for  their  flocks  and  herds. 

In  this  strange  but  wonderfully  interesting  region  we 
are  on  historic  ground.  If  antiquity  is  to  be  honored, 
certainly  Moab  and  Bashan  have  important  claims  upon 
our  respect.  Here  was  the  home  of  Ruth,  the  Moabitess, 
whose  life  forms  one  of  the  most  interesting  chapters  in 
the  sacred  records.  Here  was  the  home  of  Elijah;  this 
was  the  scene  of  the  death  and  burial  of  Moses;  here 
could  be  pointed  out  many  famous  battle-fields ;  here 
occurred  many  events  which  form  some  of  the  most 
thi'illing  portions  of  the  Old  Testament  history. 

Whatever  this  country  may  have  been  in  the  past,  it  is 
now  a  land  of  tents  and  moving  caravans.  "Without  these 
objects,  the  picture  of  the  desert  is  not  complete.  About 
the  life  of  these  desert  tribes  there  is  a  certain  fascination, 
just  as  there  is  about  the  idea  of  life  on  the  ocean  to  those 
who  know  little  of  it. 

This  region,  to  a  foreigner  who  attempts  to  live  or  travel 
in  it,  is  a  land  of  many  dangers.     The  land  belongs  to 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  D^SEBT.  4G9 

these  wild  people,  and  they  prefer  that  foreigners  shoiild 
keep  at  a  distance  from  them  5  yet  I  entered  their  country, 
and  was  providentially  spared  to  return  in  safety.  I  not 
only  travelled  extensively,  but  sojourned  there.  I  became 
as  familiar  with  many  sections  as  I  am  mth  the  region 
about  my  own  home.  We  had  our  own  tents,  servants,  and 
cook,  and  for  the  most  part  carried  our  own  provisions,  for 
it  is  very  little  that  one  can  buy  of  the  people  in  the  desert. 
Sometimes  we  suffered  for  want  of  water.  In  a  country 
where  it  does  not  rain  for  seven  months  in  the  year,  water 
becomes  very  scarce.  The  want  of  good  water  was  one  of 
the  greatest  hardships  attending  my  life  and  work  in  the 
desert. 

One  who  has  been  permitted  to  travel  or  live  for  any 
length  of  time  among  the  Bedawin  has  had  an  unusual 
experience,  chiefly  on  account  of  the  strange  and  novel 
character  of  their  mode  of  life.  The  group  of  black  tents 
on  the  plain,  or  the  distant  hill-side,  with  an  immense  herd 
of  camels,  sometimes  numbering  as  many  as  ten  thousand, 
in  the  background,  forms  a  picture  in  one's  mind  which  is 
not  soon  or  easily  obliterated. 

I  have  often  gone  out  from  my  tent  at  night  and  counted 
a  dozen  or  more  camp-fires,  some  near  at  hand  and  others 
far  away;  and  imagination  called  up  a  multitude  of 
scenes  in  Indian  life,  with  which  my  mind  was  familiar 
from  the  stories  of  childhood.  The  Bedawin  pitch  their 
tents,  not  in  a  promiscuous  cluster,  as  one  might  suppose, 
but  in  a  large  circle,  so  that  some  of  their  flocks  can  be 
protected  within  it.  The  tents  are  all  black,  that  being 
the  color  of  the  goat's-hair  of  which  the  cloth  is  made. 

In  the  highest  part  they  are  high  enough  for  a  person  to 
stand  erect.  From  the  ridge  they  slope  to  the  ground,  like 
the  inclined  roof  of  a  house,  while  a  curtain  falls  in  front. 
By  the  tent  of  the  sheikh  stands  his  long  spear,  stuck  into 


470  eAST  of  the  JORDAN. 

the  ground,  indicating  tlie  centre  of  government  and 
authority.  His  tent  is  conspicuous  by  its  great  length, 
being  one  hundred,  or,  it  may  be,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  long,  supported  at  proper  intervals  by  a  framework 
of  poles.  It  will  be  as  low  and  black  as  the  rest,  and  very 
likely  as  ragged.  It  wOl  be  divided  into  compartments, 
devoted  to  the  various  needs  of  hds  family.  One  section 
will  be  devoted  to  the  extra  furniture  and  baggage ;  one  or 
more  to  the  women  and  small  children;  another  will  be  a 
kind  of  reception  hall  for  guests  and  feasts ;  and  perhaps 
in  one  of  these,  or  in  another  near  by,  some  of  the  young- 
kids  and  lambs  will  be  sheltered  at  night,  or  during 
storms.  In  and  about  the  tents,  the  dogs,  sheep,  and 
goats,  and  even  the  horses,  seem  to  have  about  equal 
rights  with  the  men,  women,  and  children.  On  the  whole, 
however,  they  make  their  tents  very  comfortable.  They 
are  tolerable  enough  for  the  pleasant  months  of  the  year. 
During  the  rainy  season  they  seldom  have  a  fii'e,  except 
for  cooking,  because  fuel  is  scarce;  but  in  cold  weather 
the  tents  are  patched  and  the  rents  sewed  up,  and  as  by 
crowding  together  the  animal  heat  is  preserved,  they 
do  very  well  without  fires.  They  make  their  beds  on  the 
gTOund,  generally  on  a  low  platform  or  floor  formed 
of  sticks  or  reeds,  within  a  circle  of  stones,  over  which 
their  blankets  are  spread.  In  the  winter  they  generally 
leave  the  plateaus  and  hills,  and  pitch  their  tents  in  the 
warm  and  sheltered  valleys.  Many  tribes  go  to  the 
Jordan  vaUey  for  winter  quarters,  for  there  the  climate 
is  warm,  even   in  midwinter. 

The  Arab's  tent  is  his  home ;  yet  the  word  "  home  "  does 
not  mean  to  him  what  it  means  to  us.  Of  our  idea  of 
home  he  has  no  conception.  He  develops  great  fondness 
for  his  horse,  particularly  for  his  mare,  if  he  has  one ;  and 
also  for  his  favorite  camel.     His  home  is  the  little  spot 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESEBT.  471 

where  his  tent  is  pitched  and  his  flocks  are  gathered  at 
night.  His  country — his  father-land — is  the  limited  dis- 
trict over  which  he  roams  in  summer. 

Among  the  tribes  with  which  I  had  considerable  to  do 
were  the  Adwan,  numbering  four  hundred  tents;  the 
Beni  Abbad,  numbering  six  hundred  tents ;  the  Beni 
Hassan,  numbering  one  thousand  tents.  The  two  tribes 
last  mentioned  occupy  respectively  the  Lower  and  Upper 
Zerka,  or  Jabbok,  the  river  connected  with  the  history  of 
Jacob.  Likewise  the  Aneizeh,  numbering  twenty-five 
hundred  or  three  thousand  tents, —  and  some  make  the 
number  as  high  as  five  thousand ;  also  two  or  three  small 
tribes  in  the  Jordan  vaUey;  the  Hameideh  and  some  others 
in  Moab,  and  the  Ruwalla.  The  last  tribe  numbers  three 
thousand  or  more  tents,  and  occupies  the  interior  of  the 
country.  The  Arabs'  habit  of  numbering  by  tents  is 
peculiar.  In  reply  to  a  question  as  to  the  size  of  any 
given  tribe,  they  never  tell  you  the  number  of  souls,  but 
always  give  you  the  number  of  horsemen,  or  the  number 
of  tents.  Hence  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to  ascertain  the 
number  of  persons  of  which  any  particular  tribe  consists. 
Many  of  these  tribes  break  up  into  sections  and  occupy 
different  districts,  because  there  would  not  be  pasture  for 
them  all  in  any  one  place.  It  is  very  common  to  find 
only  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  tents  in  a  single 
group.  On  rare  occasions,  however,  one  may  see  several 
hundred  or  even  several  thousand  tents  in  a  single  locality. 

One  of  the  most  interesting,  not  to  say  comical,  sights 
that  may  be  witnessed  in  Arab-land  is  that  of  a  tribe  of 
Arabs  in  motion,  or  moving  from  one  camping-ground  to 
another.  As  they  do  not  move  far,  they  do  not  pack  their 
goods  as  they  would  for  a  journey  of  days  or  weeks, 
consequently    there    is    a    dropping-to-pieces    appearance 


472  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

about  everytHng  that  pertains  to  them,  which  adds  to 
the  grotesqueness  of  the  scene.  I  will  give,  as  nearly  as  I 
can,  the  picture  of  a  tribe  which  I  once  saw  moving  up 
from  then-  winter  quarters  in  the  Jordan  valley  to  the 
eastern  plateau.  Such  scenes  are  frequently  witnessed, 
but  the  description  of  one  will  be  a  fair  sample  of  all. 
Tile  procession  or  caravan  was  strung  along  over  three  or 
four  miles.  They  had  camels  and  cattle,  and  several  flocks 
of  sheep  and  goats.  The  camels,  however,  were  few, 
showing  that  they  did  not  belong  in  the  interior  of  the 
desert.  All  the  camels  and  some  of  the  other  animals 
were  loaded.  The  goods,  consisting  of  tents,  cooking 
apparatus,  bags,  rugs,  mats,  baskets,  and  even  cradles, 
had  been  hustled  together  into  bundles,  tied  with  strings 
and  ropes,  and  loaded  promiscuously  on  their  beasts  of 
burden.  Men,  women,  childi'en,  and  babies  made  each 
their  proportionate  element  in  the  procession.  There  were 
the  "  first  families,"  and  others  which,  by  their  dress,  or 
rather  by  theii*  nakedness  and  rags,  looked  as  though  they 
might  be  the  "last  families."  The  flocks  of  sheep  and 
goats  were  mostly  driven  by  small  children.  Sometimes 
there  were  flocks  of  lambs  and  kids  driven  by  children  not 
much  older  relatively  than  the  lambs  and  kids  themselves. 
Some  bf  the  men  had  in  their  arms  two,  three,  four,  or  a 
whole  armful  of  kids  and  lambs  that  were  too  young  to 
walk  5  and  among  some  cooking  utensils  there  was  a  large 
saucepan,  and  in  it  was  a  pair*  of  small  kids  that  were  too 
young  for  the  journey.  On  the  back  of  a  donkey  was  a 
bed  of  blankets,  and  on  that  a  sleeping  child  liad  been 
tied,  whose  bare  legs  hung  down  the  donkey's  side.  At 
one  point  of  the  procession  some  women  had  stopped  and 
were  trjdng  to  rearrange  a  load  which  had  fallen  off  from 
their  donkey.  There  were  small  bundles  in  the  path,  and 
one  large  one  by  the  side  of  it ;  my  horse  picked  his  way 


ARAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESERT.  473 

through  the  small  ones,  but  shied  around  the  large  one, 
for  just  as  he  approached  it  gave  a  squeak  which  startled 
him.  I  thought  it  was  a  box  filled  with  kids  too  young 
to  walk,  but  it  proved  to  be  an  orthodox  cradle,  which  no 
doubt  had  been  stolen  from  somewhere,  covered  with  a  blue 
cloth  for  a  curtain,  and  in  it  were  a  pair  of  lively  babies. 
Many  of  the  women  were  bareheaded^  it  being  too  warm, 
probably,  to  wear  the  blue  rag,  which  is  the  universal  head- 
dress ;  and  of  their  toilets  otherwise  the  less  said  the  better. 

These  tribes  will  travel  from  ten  to  fifteen  miles  a  day, 
rarely,  however,  more  than  ten  miles.  This  fact  has  an 
important  bearing  on  the  question  as  to  the  distance 
Jacob  went  when  he  ran  away  from  his  father-in-law, 
Laban  (Gen.  xxxi.). 

These  people  enjoy  then-  life  because  they  know  no  other. 
Comfort  is  a  relative  term.  I  have  myself  sometimes  been 
very  thankful  for  a  dirty  goat-pen  as  a  place  of  shelter 
from  a  violent"  storm.  In  their  way  they  have  many  com- 
forts, and,  from  theii*  point  of  view,  even  luxuries.  If 
they  get  wet  they  get  dry  again,  and  that  is  not  only  a 
comfort  but  a  luxury.  They  are  never  annoyed  by 
insects, —  a  blessed  thing  for  them.  The  noise  of  hun- 
dreds of  camels,  sheep,  goats,  donkeys,  and  dogs,  j-elping 
and  bleating  ah  at  once,  and  haK  or  aU  the  night  long, 
perhaps,  does  not  disturb  them.  They  have  a  gift  for 
sleeping  iinder  the  most  disadvantageous  circumstances. 
Besides,  the  women  collect  all  the  firewood  that  is  needed, 
and  bring  all  the  water  that  is  used  about  the  camp, 
doubtless  a  great  relief  to  the  men.  Men  among  the 
Ai'abs  have  the  art  of  adding  to  their  own  ease  and 
comfort  in  life  by  a  judicious  division  of  labor  between 
themselves  and  their  female  companions. 

Moreover,  the  Artib  is  a  stranger  to  our  ideas  of 
luxurious   li\dng.     He   knows   nothing  of  "  bills  of  fare," 


474  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

and  "  courses,"  and  "  square  meals/'  and  '^  late  suppers," 
and  '^  fashionable  lunches/'  and  aU  similar  devices  which 
in  civilized  life  have  been  invented  to  tempt  the  appetite 
and  ruin  the  stomach. 

In  the  life  of  any  people,  whether  savage  or  civilized, 
there  are  three  important  facts  to  be  considered,  namely, 
lahor^  fooclj  and  war.  However  indolent  and  unproductive 
any  given  classes  may  be,  somebody  must  work ;  while  all 
classes  must  eat ;  and,  theorists  and  peace  societies  to  the 
contrary  notwithstanding,  the  history  of  the  race  shows 
that  men  cannot  live  long  together  without  fighting.  Men 
are  really  very  quarrelsome  animals. 

From  books,  one  is  likely  to  get  the  impression  that  the 
wild  Bedawin  subsist  chiefly  by  violence  and  robbery. 
But  it  can  be  shown  that  they  do  not  live  by  plunder 
alone.  They  have  some  legitimate  business.  The  trade 
of  Aleppo  with  the  desert  Arabs  in  that  immediate  region 
is  said  to  amount  to  £50,000  a  year.  What  the  amount 
of  trade  of  Damascus,  Jerusalem,  and  the  coast  towns 
with  the  Bedawin  tribes  is,  I  cannot  say,  but  it  must 
be  considerable.  Those  who  live  nearest  the  settled 
portions  raise  sheep,  goats,  horses,  and  some  grain, 
while  the  remote  tribes  raise  horses  and  camels.  A  cer- 
tain alkali  bush  grows  on  the  plains,  which  furnishes  the 
material  needed  by  the  soap-makers  in  the  large  towns, 
and  that  is  a  very  important  item  in  their  barter  trade. 
In  the  desert  we  often  came  upon  the  tents  of  mer- 
chants from  Damascus  and  elsewhere,  who  were  there 
trading  with  the  Arabs.  Even  agents  from  India  have 
been  met,  who  come  for  the  purpose  of  bujdng  horses. 
At  the  present  time,  the  best  Arabian  horses  come 
mostly  from  the  interior  of  the  desert.  Among  the  tribes 
nearest  the  coast  the  fine  horses  have  been  sold,  and 
reduced  in  number,  until  they  have  nearly  disappeared. 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESEBT.  475 

These  people  need  money,  or  its  equivalent.  They  must 
pm-chase  coffee,  rice,  sugar,  powder,  and  spear-heads,  and 
sometimes  have  their  horses  shod,  although  generally 
their  horses  go  without  shoeing.  Also,  they  use  much 
cotton  cloth,  out  of  which  the  dames  and  belles  of  the 
desert  make  theii-  "  best "  dresses.  The  business  of  raising 
camels  for  market  is  very  extensive  and  profitable.  Egypt 
draws  its  supply  of  camels  largely  from  Syiia  and  the 
deserts  to  the  south.  All  the  transportation  between  the 
Mediterranean  and  the  Euphrates  is  done  by  these  animals. 
The  travel  and  mail  service  between  Damascus,  Bagdad, 
and  the  Persian  Gulf  employs  only  camels,  and  thou.sands 
are  needed  every  year  by  the  pilgrims  between  Damascus 
and  Mecca ;  hence  the  demand  is  quite  large. 

We  once  camped  where  about  two  thousand  camels  were 
feeding.  These  were  mostly  female,  with  their  young.  I 
learned  that  the  average  price  per  head,  taking  young 
and  old  together,  was  five  pounds,  or  about  twenty- 
five  dollars.  This  whole  herd  would  thus  be  worth  $50,000. 
These  were  the  property  of  a  certain  branch  of  one  of  the 
larger  desert  tribes.  The  owners  might  be  dressed  in  rags, 
and  one  might  regard  them  as  veritable  beggars,  but  they 
have  that  which  represents  money,  or  which  can  be  turned 
into  money  if  the  occasion  requires  it.  But  as  their  trade 
is  chiefly  barter,  they  do  not  have  any  very  great  need  of 
ready  money.  There  are  no  stores,  shops,  or  saloons  in 
the  desert,  or  any  other  temptations  to  spend  money  which 
exist  in  the  large  towns,  or  in  civilized  lands.  I  have  seen 
large  flocks  of  sheep  and  lambs  that  were  numbered  by 
thousands  being  driven  up  from  the  plains  of  Moab, 
designed  for  the  market  in  Jerusalem  and  in  some  of  the 
coast  towns.  The  people  in  the  desert  are,  at  present, 
poor  and  degraded,  compared  with  those  in  Bible  times ; 
vet  the  flocks  and  herds  which  now  are  sometimes  seen 


476  .EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

remind  one  of  the  wealth  of  some  of  the  desert  princes  in 
the  days  of  old. 

There  is  some  game  in  the  desert,  but  the  Arabs  never 
hunt  to  gain  the  means  of  subsistence.  Powder  and  shot 
are  too  expensive  for  them  to  do  this.  We  found  pigeons, 
doves,  partridges,  quails,  gazelles,  and  a  few  other  birds 
and  animals  that  were  used  for  food ;  and  I  have  several 
times  referred  to  the  francolin,  the  beautiful  game-bird 
which  exists  in  great  numbers  in  the  Jordan  valley.  There 
are  no  game-laws  in  the  desert,  and  one  is  at  liberty  to 
hunt  at  will.  The  Arabs  sometimes  have  exciting  wild- 
boar  hunts,  but  as  the  Moslem  can  make  no  use  of 
swine's  flesh,  these  animals  are  left  where  they  fall.  They 
are  very  destructive  to  crops,  and  will  tear  up  a  whole 
wheat  field.  The  Moslem  hates  mth  all  his  nature  the 
IcJianzir,  or  swine,  and  when  he  finds  that  they  have  been 
carrying  on  their  work  of  destruction  among  his  crops,  the 
whole  catalogue  of  Semitic  curses  is  too  brief  to  express 
the  Ishmaelite's  infinite  disgust  that  such  a  vile  creature 
should  have  ruined  that  upon  which  he  depended  for 
bread. 

The  Bedawin  despises  manual  labor.-  This  is  one  of  the 
most  unfortunate  traits  in  his  character.  He  does  not 
disbelieve  in  work ;  but  he  believes  in  having  some  one  to 
do  it  for  him,  which,  to  be  sure,  is  quite  a  civilized  idea. 
But  considering  his  scanty  living,  and  his  dislike  of  labor, 
one  would  not  expect  to  see  much  land  cultivated  in  the 
deserts  beyond  the  Jordan.  The  contrary,  however,  is 
true ;  and  in  the  valleys,  and  on  the  fertile  portions  of  the 
plains,  numerous  fields  of  wheat  and  barley  beautify 
the  landscape. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  explain  how  iVrab  farming  is 
carried  on.  They  send  across  the  Jordan,  or  to  the  few 
villages  in  the  Gilead  hills,  and  hire  Christians  to  till  their 


ARAB  LIFE  IX  THE  DESERT.  477 

lands  for  tliem.  Some  Moslems  go  out  for  this  purpose, 
but  Christians  are  willing  and  are  usually  employed  for 
such  service.  These  laborers  a«"e  called  fellahhi.  We 
should  call  them  small  farmers,  or,  more  properly,  peas- 
ants. The  farmer,  at  the  beginning  of  the  season,  or 
when  the  contract  is  made,  is  given  foui*,  five,  or  six 
doUars,  as  the  case  may  be.  He  receives  also  a  pair  of 
shoes,  and  has  seed  furnished  him.  But,  besides  these 
things,  he  receives  nothing.  He  must  provide  his  own 
men,  cattle,  and  implements.  He  must  j)ay  his  own 
help  and  do  all  the  work  from  ploughing  to  threshing. 
At  the  end  of  the  season,  he  receives  one-fourth  of  the 
crop.  While  he  is  at  work,  the  Arabs  who  own  the  soil 
are  responsible  for  his  safety ;  it  would  not  be  for  theii' 
interest  to  steal  his  property  or  to  take  his  life. 

The  grain  is  stored  in  large  vaults,  or  cisterns,  made  in 
the  gi'ound.  These  are  very  narrow  at  the  top,  and  can  be 
covered  by  a  single  stone.  Doubtless  the  character  of  the 
receptacles  prevents  theft,  for  a  stranger  passing  would 
notice  no  difference  between  the  stone  which  covers 
the  mouth  of  the  granary  and  any  common  stone  of 
the  field.  The  laborer,  while  engaged  in  his  work, 
frequently  finds  temporary  shelter  in  some  goat-pen  or 
in  the  ruins  of  a  once  splendid  palace  or  temple.  I 
went  one  bright  moonlight  night  to  visit  the  great  theatre 
at  Amman — the  Rabbath  Amnion  of  the  Bible — which, 
by  actual  measurement,  I  had  found  would  seat  comfort- 
ably ten  thousand  people,  and  in  one  of  the  long  corridors, 
under  and  behind  the  seats,  I  aroused  a  man,  who  proved. 
to  be  a  Christian  peasant  from  the  \Tllage  of  Es  Salt 
(a  Saltee,  as  such  a  person  is  called),  who  was  tilling 
land  in  the  neighborhood  for  the  Arabs,  and  who  foimd 
here  at  night  a  temporaiy  shelter  for  himself  and  his 
cattle. 


478  EAST  OF  THE  J  OB  DAN. 

A  poor,  ignorant  Christian  cultivating  land  for  a 
degraded  and  wretched  Bedawin,  the  present  nominal 
owner  of  the  soil,  and  making  his  home  in  the  ruins  of  a 
theatre  which  was  once  brilliant  with  ten  thousand  spec- 
tators gathered  from  a  city  of  churches  and  palaces 
and  temples ;  the  people  of  intelligence  and  wealth  all 
gone;  the  people  and  buildings  that  remain  sunken  into 
moral  and  physical  ruin,  appears,  to  human  judgment,  a 
strange  reversal  of  the  law  of  progress,  and  gives  rise  to 
serious  and  painful  reflections. 

If  I  were  to  enter  largely  into  the  culinary  department 
of  the  Bedawin  life,  I  fear  the  subject  would  not  prove 
very  interesting,  chiefly  on  account  of  the  uncleanly  proc- 
esses in  preparing  the  food  and  the  uncleanly  habits  of 
the  Arab  women  who  do  the  cooking.  A  few  hints  on  this 
topic  will  doubtless  be  sufficient.  Almost  all  their  dishes 
swim  in  grease  and  are  very  uninviting.  They  have 
cracked  wheat,  boiled  rice,  sour  camel's  milk,  coarse  bread, 
what  they  call  butter,  and  some  meat.  The  last  is  sel- 
dom used,  except  at  some  feast  or  when  an  important 
person  arrives.  It  was  a  surprise  to  me  to  learn  how 
extensively  rice  was  used  among  the  Arabs  as  an  article  of 
diet.  It  is  not  expensive,  is  easy  to  transport  and  to  keep, 
and  for  these  reasons  it  is  in  very  common  use.  The  Arab 
has  a  most  convenient  stomach.  In  his  wild,  irregular 
life,  food  at  best  is  scanty.  But,  by  necessity  or  discipline, 
he  is  able  to  go  for  days  together,  and  even  to  make  a  long 
journey,  on  the  shortest  allowance.  He  has,  however, 
some  idea  of  the  law  of  compensation,  for,  on  occasion  of 
a  feast,  or  when  the  opportunity  is  afforded  him,  he  will 
devour  at  a  single  meal  a  perfectly  enormous  quantity  of 
food. 

Whatever  objection  we  make  to  their  dishes  and  food  in 
general,  we  must  give  them  credit  for  making  excellent 


ARAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESERT.  479 

coffee.  Seldom,  even  in  civilized  lands,  have  I  tasted 
better  coffee  than  I  have  drank  in  Moab  and  Bashan 
with  those  wild  sons  of  the  desert.  With  them,  the  men 
always  make  the  coffee.  But  to  associate  this  fact 
with  the  quality  of  the  coffee  may  be  considered  as 
not  very  gallant.  I  would  suggest,  however,  that  if 
any  American  housekeeper  has  tried  every  hitherto  known 
method,  and  still  fails  to  produce  good  coffee,  she 
try  the  Ai-ab  plan.  Let  the  captain  of  the  household 
himself  rise  and  stir  around  early  in  the  morning,  and 
try  Ms  hand  at  making  coffee.  Once  when  I  had  been 
travelling  aU  night, — in  fact,  having  ridden  aU  night  for 
two  nights  in  succession,  seventeen  houi's  in  the  saddle  one 
day  and  fifteen  hours  the  next  day, — I  came,  just  before 
daybreak,  upon  an  Arab  encampment.  As  my  guide  was 
a  sheikh  in  that  tribe,  I  was,  of  course,  an  honored 
guest,  although  coming  at  an  unseasonable  hour.  I  was 
assigned  to  that  portion  of  the  tent  which  was  reserved  for 
strangers,  and  mats  were  spread  for  me  to  recHne  upon. 
Before  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  we  were  treated  to 
coffee.  The  process  of  preparing  it  was  interesting. 
Sticks  were  brought  and  a  fire  made  about  ten  feet  from 
where  I  sat,  directly  in  front  of  the  tent.  A  light  wind 
drove  the  smoke  into  the  tent  and  filled  my  eyes,  but  the 
Arabs  who  sat  about  me  were  not  annoyed  by  it.  Indeed, 
an  Arab's  eyes  seem  to  be  made  in  such  a  way  that 
smoke  does  not  pain  them.  When  the  fire  was  weU 
started,  the  coffee  was  brought  and  roasted,  and  after- 
wards pounded  in  my  presence.  One  of  the  men  held  the 
mortar  and  a  boy  handled  the  pestle,  keeping  time  with  it 
as  he  pounded  the  coffee,  and  humming  a  little  song. 
When  ready,  it  was  first  passed  to  me,  because  I  was 
their  guest,  and  it  was  delicious.  The  cups  were  of  a 
larger  size  than  the  usual  Turkish  coffee-cups,  which  are 


480  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

so  tiny  as  to  contain  no  more  liquid  than  enough  to 
moisten  one's  lij^s.  Wlien  I  had  finished  my  cup,  I  said 
to  my  Ai-ab  friend  that  I  would  like  it  filled  again,  pro- 
vided it  w'oidd  not  be  considered  a  breach  of  etiquette 
by  his  people.  He  smiled  and  told  me  to  drink  as  much 
as  I  pleased.  An  Arab  seldom  takes  at  a  sitting  more 
than  a  single  cup  of  coffee.  They  drink  coffee  as  a  cere- 
monial of  hospitality ;  not  as  a  stimulus,  a  beverage,  or  for 
refreshment.  They  consume  a  great  deal  of  time  in  pre- 
paring it,  consequently  the  tired  guest,  especially  if  he  is 
a  foreigner,  is  sometimes  wellnigh  famished  before  the 
coffee  is  ready  which  he  has  been  invited  to  their  tents  to 
drink.  On  one  occasion,  when  I  was  ready  to  sink  to  the 
ground  from  fatigue  and  hunger,  I  waited  fully  two 
hours  for  the  coffee,  which  they  had  prepared  of  their 
own  accord  on  my  account.  But  they  were  fussing 
about  it  duriijg  the  whole  time.  When  at  last  it  was 
ready,  there  was  about  a  table-spoonful  for  each  of  us. 
They  considered  that  they  had  received  and  treated  me  in 
the  highest  Bedawin  style.  In  fact,  there  was  altogether 
too  much  style  and  altogether  too  little  coffee. 

I  was  occasionally  invited  to  dine  with  some  sheikh,  but 
I  always  excused  myself  when  possible,  because  I  knew 
what  to  expect,  and  the  thought  of  their  dishes  and  food 
was  far  from  inviting.  The  description  of  one  such  feast 
will  answer  for  all  of  them.  The  dining-room  was  the 
regular  guest  apartment  of  the  sheikh's  long  tent.  The 
great  men  of  the  tribe  were  there,  also  the  servants  stand- 
ing about.  We  sat  with  the  Arabs  on  the  rugs  spread  upon 
the  gi'ound.  The  food  was  placed  upon  large  mats  also 
spread  upon  the  gi'ound,  and  we  sat  in  a  circle  about  the 
dishes.  There  was  a  platter  of  boiled  rice,  in  which  were 
some  small  pieces  of  minced  meat,  and  the  whole  was 
covered  mth  loaves  or  sheets  of  bread.     These  loaves  of 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  BESEBT.  481 

bread  are  about  as  large  around  as  the  bottom  of  a  milk- 
pan,  and  about  as  thick  as  heavy  flannel.  When  fresh, 
they  can  be  rolled  up  like  so  many  pieces  of  cloth  and 
thrust  into  one's  pocket,  belt,  or  saddle-bags,  and  carried 
conveniently. 

Near  the  large  platter  was  another,  on  which  was 
some  rice  boiled  in  milk,  and  quite  soft.  We  took 
a  piece  of  bread,  and  with  our  fingers  put  some  rice 
and  a  meat-ball  on  it  and  ate.  There  were  two  or  three 
small  wooden  spoons,  with  which  the  softer  rice  on  the 
platter  was  taken  out.  But  the  Arabs  in  general  have  no 
knives,  forks,  spoons,  plates,  napkins,  etc.,  without  which 
iu  civilized  life  we  tliink  we  could  not  eat  at  all.  They  sa}', 
"  What  does  a  majU  want  of  a  spoon  when  God  has  given 
him  so  many  fingers  ? "  The  principal  men,  as  I  have  said, 
ate  with  us.  The  dishes  were  then  passed  to  those  next  in 
rank,  and  after  these  had  eaten,  the  servants  and  chil- 
dren literally  devoured  what  was  left.  If  order  and  cere- 
mony had  prevailed  dui'ing  our  meal,  when  the  servants 
and  children  ate  there  was  a  perfect  scramble.  After  the 
feast  was  over,  coffee  was  served,  being  prepared  in  our 
presence,  as  I  have  described;  and  afterwards  water  was 
brought  and  poured  over  our  hands,  which  is  the  common 
custom  with  them  after  eating. 

The  women  do  not  join  in  such  feasts.    In  fact,  they 

keep   out  of   sight.     We  could   see  them  peeping  at   us 

through  the  seams  of  the  tent-cloth,  which  separated  their 

apartment  from  the  diniug-hall.     '\i\Tien  going  away  from 

this  entertainment,  I  explained  to  one  of  the  sheikhs,  who 

was  my  friend,  how  a  banquet  of  this  kind  would  generally 

be  conducted  in  America.    I  said  that  the  great  man  would 

sit  at  the  head,  and  near  him  some  important  lady,  and 

then  another  gentleman  and  another  lady,  and  so  on  until 

the  cii'cle  was  complete:    that  we  thought  we  could  not 
21 


482  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

have  such  a  grand  feast  as  the  one  just  enjoyed  without 
the  ladies  being  present.  He  listened  attentively,  and  then 
said  that  it  was  very  different  from  their  custom,  but  he 
thought  he  should  like  the  American  way  better. 

As  to  the  wars  of  the  Bedawin,  they  are  far  from  being 
bloody.  There  is  not  enough  Roman  in  their  character  to 
make  them  good  soldiers.  Their  battles  are  more  like 
those  of  Homer  than  like  those  of  Von  Moltke  or  General 
Grant.  A  Bedawin  battle,  in  its  details,  bears  a  striking 
resemblance  to  some  of  those  narrated  in  the  "  Iliad," 
thirty  centuries  ago,  more  or  less.  Homeric  fighting 
appears  to  have  consisted  largely  in  personal  challenge, 
in  boasting  of  one's  own  deeds,  and  of  the  bravery  and 
achievements  of  one's  ancestors.  The  Arabs  lack  con- 
certed action,  and  in  or  before  any  engagement,  however 
trivial,  they  certainly  boast  enough  to  be  ranked  with 
Homer's  heroes. 

The  Bedawin  have  no  line  of  battle,  nor  do  they  appear 
to  have  any  special  system  in  fighting,  but  mounted 
men  from  one  side  or  the  other  will  rush  out  and  ride 
furiously  towards  the  enemy,  brandish  theu*  spears,  and 
appear  as  if  they  were  going  to  sweep  them  from  the  field. 
But  before  they  come  near  enough  to  be  in  any  special 
danger,  they  turn  and  dash  back  again  with  the  utmost 
heroism  and  bravery.  Sometimes,  however,  they  do  advance 
too  near,  and  are  shot  or  thrust  through  with  a  spear 
and  killed.  Hence  it  happens  that  in  what  they  call  a 
great  battle  the  mortality  will  be  very  slight. 

Our  old  friend  and  hunter,  Haj  'Ali,  loved  to  rehearse 
incidents  of  his  past  life  in  the  intervals  of  duty  in  camp. 
One  of  the  battles  to  which  I  have  referred  (p.  132) 
was,  by  his  account,  a  long  and  bloody  struggle.  He  gave 
us,  on  several  different  occasions,  the  details  of  it,  and  his 
manner  would  become  excited  and  earnest  as  he  recalled 


ARAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESERT.  483 

its  scenes  and  stirring  events.  There  were  many  hair- 
breadth escapes,  many  feats  of  personal  heroism  and 
bravery  which  seemed  to  thrill  the  old  man's  soul,  as  he 
narrated  them.  The  first  time  when  he  gave  us  an  account 
of  this  battle  I  thought  it  must  have  been  something  like 
Bull  Run,  Shiloh,  or  Chickamauga;  but  it  appeared  that  the 
party  to  which  this  old  man  belonged  was  on  one  side  of 
the  river  Jordan,  while  the  enemy  were  on  the  opposite 
side,  and  that  was  as  near  as  they  came  to  each  other  all 
day.  And  when  he  had  finished  his  long  account,  thrilling 
enough  to  have  satisfied  the  most  sensational  newspaper 
in  our  land,  we  asked  him  :  '^  How  many  were  killed  ? " 
"  Killed,  do  you  say  !  "  ''  Yes  ;  how  many  were  killed  in 
that  great  battle  ? "  "  Well,  there  were  no  men  killed ; 
one  horse  was  kiQed,  and  one  man  was  wounded." 

People  understand  that  these  men  are  untamed  Arabs, 
and  it  is  supposed  that  they  make  it  both  a  business  and 
a  pastime  to  cut  each  other's  throats.  But  killing  is  far 
less  common  among  them  than  one  would  think,  for  when 
life  is  taken  the  blood-feud  ensues,  just  as  it  did  among 
the  ancient  Hebrews,  and  that  occasions  trouble  for  years. 
When  they  make  a  raid  for  plunder  they  avoid  taking  life 
if  possible ;  because,  when  life  must  be  paid  with  life,  and 
blood  with  blood,  even  wild  men  are  cautious  how  they 
needlessly  incur  danger.  When,  however,  life  is  taken, 
it  is  considered  by  the  noble  Arabs  a  disgrace  to  com- 
promise the  matter  for  money. 

In  a  former  chapter  (xxix.)  I  have  stated  that  early  in 
the  present  year  I  had  dealings  with  two  tribes  between 
which  there  was  a  blood-feud  of  recent  origin.  At  one 
time  there  was  a  prospect  that  it  would  lead  to  war, 
though  this  was  finally  averted.  On  the  day  mentioned 
(p.  378),  when  the  sheikhs  of  the  respective  tribes  were 
in  my  tent  arranging  about  guides   and  drinking  coffee, 


484  EAST  OF  THE  JOBBAN. 

I  overheard  tliem  speaking  about  the  recent  affau". 
They  approached  the  matter  in  the  most  cautious  man- 
ner, and  were  as  formal  and  cold  in  their  intercourse  as 
the  representatives  of  England  and  Russia  are  at  the 
present  time.  I  heard  the  sheikh  of  the  offending  tribe 
offer  the  other  money  as  an  atonement,  which  was  cour- 
teously but  promptly  and  decidedly  refused.  The  conver- 
sation ended  there.  Each  party  knew  that  words  were 
of  no  further  avail. 

At  prayer-time,  both  of  these  men  went  outside  my  tent, 
spread  their  blankets  on  the  ground,  fell  on  their  knees, 
with  their  faces  towards  Mecca,  and  prayed.  A  man  can 
be  a  good  Moslem  even  while  nursing  bitter  hatred  and 
angry  passions  in  his  heart.  There  is  a  religion  which 
says :  "  Love  your  enemies ;  bless  them  that  curse  you ;  do 
good  to  them  that  hate  you,  and  pray  for  them  wliich 
despitefully  use  you  and  persecute  you." 

Among  civilized  nations  a  battle  may  take  place  at 
almost  any  point,  while  among  the  Bedawin  it  woidd  be 
likely  to  occur  at  some  locality  settled  upon  beforehand, 
and  well  known  to  both  parties.  At  Khurbet  Sar,  which 
corresponds  to  Jazer  of  the  Old  Testament,  the  great 
plateau,  stretching  for  several  miles  to  the  north  and  east, 
has  been  the  battle-ground  of  the  tribes  in  that  region 
for  several  generations.  Tlie  last  battle  which  occurred 
there  was  in  1861,  and  some  of  my  own  men  were  engaged 
in  it.  In  consequence  of  the  war  in  Europe,  a  general 
disturbance  and  uneasiness  existed  even  among  the  desert 
tribes,  and  it  was  expected  that  they  would  resort  to 
fighting.  "We  have  referred  (pp.  378,  379)  to  one  of  the 
many  difficulties  and  disputes  that  were  to  be  settled  in  this 
manner.  Scores  of  horses  had  been  taken  to  Jerusalem,  in 
small  squads  at  a  time,  and  shod ;  old  spears,  swords,  and 
muskets  were   put  into  a    condition  for   immediate  use, 


ARAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESERT.  485 

and  on  the  plateau  the  tribes  that  were  banded  together 
on  one  side  were  gathered.  Besides  the  horsemen  and  the 
stir  and  bustle  incident  to  such  an  excited  state  of  affairs, 
the  multitude  of  tents  alone  formed  a  splendid  sight.  I 
went  over  the  ground  on  Monday  and  Tuesday,  and  matters 
had  reached  such  a  crisis  that  the  battle  was  expected  by 
the  following  Saturday  or  Sunday.  We  moved  oiu*  camp 
to  a  safe  place  in  the  Jordan  valley,  but  the  sheikh  of  the 
tribe  under  whose  protection  I  was,  urged  me  to  go  up  and 
witness  the  battle.  An  invitation  to  a  battle! — a  compli- 
mentary ticket!  —  a  reserved  seat!  I  did  not  accept.  The 
battle  which  was  expected  did  not,  however,  occui*  at  that 
time,  nor  while  I  was  in  that  region. 

It  had  been  a  part  of  my  purpose  to  get,  if  possible, 
some  Bedawin  skulls,  as  none  had  ever  been  brought  in 
from  these  deserts.  While  exploring  the  valley  of  the 
Jabbok,  I  had  found  one  in  a  hole  in  a  cave,  where, 
apparently,  it  had  been  dragged  by  some  wild  animal, 
as  the  place  was  too  small  for  any  liuman  being  to  have 
crawled  into.  This  skull  I  carefully  concealed  among  our 
baggage,  because  the  Arabs  are  very  fanatical'  about  such 
matters,  and  by  exposing  it  I  could  easily  have  got  into 
trouble.  I  was  stiU  in  doubt  how  I  should  obtain  others. 
I  knew  where  a  tribe,  unfriendly  to  the  tribe  I  was  then 
with,  l)uried  their  dead,  and  I  had  planned  to  go  out  at 
night,  with  some  of  our  men,  and  borrow  some  bodies 
in  the  way  that  is  usually  practised  in  America.  But  at 
last  it  became  unnecessary  to  resort  to  this  modern  and 
civilized  method  of  bone-snatching.  On  this  old  battle- 
field of  Khurbet  Sar,  my  golden  opportunity  presented 
itseK.  Among  the  ruins  were  the  remains  of  a  great 
building  which  had  been  supported  on  two  of  its  sides  by 
noble  arches  that  were  now  quite  covered  with  fallen 
stones  and  debris.     On  removing  these,  I  found  beneath 


486  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

the  arches  a  quantity  of  human  bones.  I  ventured  to 
mention  the  subject  to  one  of  the  prominent  Arabs,  who 
was  my  special  friend,  and  I  was  gratified  when  he  replied 
that  I  could  take  as  many  of  them  as  I  pleased,  for  they 
were  principally  the  bones  of  men  that  had  been  killed 
in  battle,  and  did  not  belong  to  any  tribe  in  particular; 
so,  watching  my  opportunity  when  the  Arabs  were  not 
around,  I  secured  a  bagful  of  skulls  and  packed  them 
in  a  safe  place  among  the  baggage.  Some  of  these  I  left 
with    the  American    Protestant    college    in    Beirut,   and 


Bedawin   Skull,   from   Khurbet  Sar,   the  Old   Testament  Jazer. 

brought  only  two  of  them  to  America.  These  have 
been  examined  by  scientific  men  at  Cambridge,  and  their 
capacities  and  characteristics  noted  in  detail;  but  these 
gentlemen  say  that,  while  they  are  interesting,  two 
skulls  are  not  enough  to  make  any  scientific  deductions 
from.  For  this  purpose,  they  need  whole  boxes  and 
barrels  of  bones. 

Measurements  of  these  skulls,  as  made  by  Mr.  Lucien 
Carr,  of  the  Peabody  Museum  of  Archaeology  and  Eth- 
nology, at  Cambridge,  Massachusetts,  are  given  on  the 
following  page;  and  I  present  here,  also,  an  illustration 
of  No.  2,  taken  from  a  photogi-aph. 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  BE8EBT.  487 

]VIeasurement  of  Bedawin  Skulls. 
I. 

Length 164  millimetres       Height 129  millimetres 

Breadth 132  "  Capacity,  1128  cubic  centimetres 

Skull  of  a  youth.     A  portion  of  dried  skin  still  adhering  to  frontal. 
Skull  is  brachycephalic. 

n. 

Length 186  millimetres        Capacity,  1341  cubic  centimetres 

Breadth 142  "  Index  of  breadth 752 

Height 136  " 

The  skull  is  orthoeephalic. 

Breadth  of  frontal   at  narrowest  point  on  temporal  ridge,   above 
external  angular  processes,  100  millimetres. 
Several  Wormian  bones  developed  in  the  occipital  suttire. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Arab  Life  in  the  Desert. — Continued. 

Hospitality  of  the  Arabs.  They  appreciate  kind  treatment.  A  dom- 
ineering person  not  safe  among  them.  Burekhardt's  testimony. 
Mode  of  gaining  their  friendship.  Their  metliod  of  doing  busi- 
ness. Number  employed  by  us.  Price  paid.  No  hau'breadth 
escapes.  A  highway  robber.  A  bit  of  experience.  The  sheikh 
of  Suf.  Power  of  presents.  Religion.  Profanity  terrible.  Ideas 
of  God  and  a  future  life.  Graves  not  very  sacred.  Tombs  of  saints. 
Praying-places.  Use  of  wine.  Secret  society  among  the  Druzes. 
Curiosity  of  the  Bedawin.  Interest  in  a  photograph.  Number  of 
wives.  Generosity.  Cleanliness  of  the  Arabs.  Washing-day  cus- 
toms.    At  a  fountain.     Help  from  Arab  boys.     Interesting  children. 

IN  speaking  of  the  hospitality  of  the  Bedawin,  I  am 
mentioning  only  a  familiar  topic,  to  which  I  can, 
perhaps,  add  nothing  new, — at  least,  do  little  more  than 
corroborate  the  testimony  of  those  who  before  me  have 
had  occasion  to  refer  to  the  subject.  Yet,  if  I  were  to 
pass  it  by  unnoticed,  I  should  do  injustice  to  those  people 
of  the  desert,  from  whom  I  have  received  many  favors. 
Let  it  be  said  to  their  praise,  they  are  true  to  their  friends. 
They  honor  their  word.  Even  a  stranger  may  throw  him- 
self upon  the  hospitality  of  the  sheikh  of  a  tribe,  and, 
however  unwelcome  he  may  be,  they  will    receive   and 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESEBT.  489 

entertain  him,  and  give  him  three  days'  grace  to  secure 
their  friendship,  or  get  out  of  their  way.  Although  all 
that  I  have  just  said  is  true,  yet,  on  the  other  hand,  they 
know  how  to  rob  and  murder ;  indeed,  they  have  reduced 
these  things  to  fine  arts.  Hence  one  needs  a  great  deal 
of  tact  if  one  expects  to  travel  or  live  among  them  in 
safety.  In  aU  my  intercourse  with  them,  I  never  suffered 
from  them  in  any  way.  I  was  always  treated  with  respect, 
all  roads  were  open  to  me,  and  my  person  and  property 
were  guarded  by  them  in  the  most  sacred  manner.  The 
simple  fact  was  that  I  treated  them  well.  I  do  not  mean 
to  be  understood  that  I  made  them  numerous  or  expensive 
presents,  for  my  gifts  were  of  comparatively  small  value ; 
but  I  threw  myself  on  theii"  confidence  and  honor,  and 
they  never  betrayed  me.  I  endeavored  to  deal  with 
them  in  a  frank  and  upright  manner,  and  found  them 
uniformly  faithful  to  their  agreements.  If  a  blustering, 
domineering  man  were  to  go  among  them  and  endeavor 
to  go  about  where  he  pleased  without  asking  their  permis- 
sion, claim  their  services  as  his  right,  ignore  them  or 
treat  them  with  contempt,  they  would  resent  such  treat- 
ment at  once,  and  that  person  could  not  remain  in  their 
country  a  single  night  without  being  in  danger  of  losing 
his  property  or  his  life.  It  would  be  wise  for  him 
to  keep  away  from  Arab-land,  for  the  Arabs  are  hot- 
blooded  and  very  sensitive  about  slights  and  injuries,  and 
their  fiery  nature  leads  them  to  take  the  law  into  their 
own  hands. 

Burckhardt's  experience  in  this  very  region  was  interest- 
ing, and  some  of  his  observations  are  extremely  just.  He 
says : 

"  Hospitality  to  strangers  is  a  characteristic  common  to 
the  Arabs  and  to  the  people  of  the  Hauran.  A  traveller 
may  alight  at  any  house  he  pleases ;  a  mat  wUl  be  imme- 
21* 


490  EAST  OF  THE  JOED  AN. 

diately  spread  for  him,  coffee  made,  and  a  breakfast  or 
dinner  set  before  Mm.  In  entering  a  village,  it  has  often 
happened  to  me  that  several  persons  presented  themselves, 
each  begging  that  I  would  lodge  at  his  house ;  and  this 
hospitality  is  not  confined  to  the  traveller  himself,  his  horse 
or  his  camel  is  also  fed.  *  *  *  It  is  a  point  of  honor 
with  the  host  never  to  accept  the  smallest  return  from  his 
guest.  *  *  *  Besides  the  private  habitations,  which 
offer  to  every  traveller  a  secuire  night's  shelter,  there  is  in 
every  village  the  medhafe  of  the  sheikh,  where  aU  strangers 
of  decent  appearance  are  received  and  entertained.  It  is 
the  duty  of  the  sheikh  to  maintain  this  medhafe,  which  is 
like  a  tavern,  with  the  difference  that  the  host  himself  pays 
the  bill.  The  sheikh  has  a  public  allowance  to  defray 
these  expenses.  Hence,  a  man  of  the  Hauran,  intending 
to  travel  about  for  a  fortnight,  never  thinks  of  putting  a 
single  para  in  his  pocket ;  he  is  sure  of  being  everywhere 
well  received,  and  of  living  better,  perhaps,  than  at  his 
own  home.  A  man  remarkable  for  his  hospitality  and 
generosity  enjoys  the  highest  consideration  among  them" 
("Travels,"  etc.,  pp.  294,  295).  ''To  be  a  Bedouin  is  to 
be  hospitable;  his  condition  is  so  intimately  connected 
with  hospitality  that  no  circumstances,  however  urgent 
or  embarrassing,  can  ever  palliate  his  neglect  of  that 
social  virtue"  ("Bedouin  and  "Wahabys,"  i.,  p.  338). 
"Among  the  Aneizeh,  a  guest  is  regarded  as  sacred;  his 
person  is  protected,  and  a  violation  of  hospitahty,  by  the 
betraying  of  a  guest,  has  not  occurred  within  the  memory 
of  man.  He  who  has  a  single  protector  in  any  one  tribe, 
becomes  the  friend  of  all  the  tribes  connected  in  amity 
with  it.  Life  and  property  may,  with  perfect  security,  be 
entrusted  to  an  Aneizeh,  and  wherever  he  goes,  one  may 
follow  him;  but  his  enemies  become  the  enemies  of  the 
man  whom  he  protects"  fihid.,  p.  177).     "Whoever  travels 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  BESEBT.  491 

among  the  Bedouin,  whether  rich  or  poor,  and  wishes 
to  be  on  friendly  terms  with  them,  must  imitate,  so  far 
as  he  can,  their  system  of  hospitality,  yet  without  any 
appearance  of  prodigality,  which  would  inspire  his  com- 
panions with  a  belief  that  he  possessed  immense  wealth, 
and  would  render  his  progress  difficult,  in  proportion  to 
their  increasing  demands  for  money.  He  must  likewise 
condescend  (if  it  can  be  called  condescension)  to  treat 
the  Bedouin  on  terms  of  equality,  and  not  with  the 
haughtiness  of  a  Turkish  grandee,  as  travellers  too  fre- 
quently do.  *  *  *  Living  with  a  Bedouin,  his 
feelings  must  not  be  wounded ;  he  must  be  treated  with 
friendliness;  and  in  return  he  wUl  seek  for  an  opportunity 
of  proving  to  you  that  in  his  own  desert  he  is  a  greater 
man  than  yourself.  And  why  not  treat  kindly  a  man 
who,  if  you  were  in  the  most  abject  and  forlorn  condition, 
would  certainly  treat  you  as  a  brother?"  fibid.,  pp. 
345,  346.) 

My  custom,  whenever  I  wished  to  enter  their  country, 
or  to  go  from  the  territory  of  one  tribe  to  that  of  another, 
was  to  send  for  the  sheikh  and  principal  men  of  that  tribe, 
invite  them  to  my  tent,  and  treat  them  to  coffee.  For  the 
Arabs  never  drink  any  wine,  and  I  had  no  wine  or  liquor 
of  any  kind  about  the  camp  to  offer  them,  even  if  they  had 
desired  it.  My  treat  must  consist  of  water,  or  coffee.  But 
coffee  is  always  used  on  such  occasions,  and  satisfies  the 
requirements  of  the  most  formal  and  stUted  Bedawin 
etiquette.  I  tell  these  men  frankly  what  I  wish,  where  I 
desire  to  go,  and  convince  them  that  I  have  no  sinister 
motive  in  thus  travelling  about  and  visiting  different 
places.  They  will  be  very  likely  to  suspect  that  I  am 
a  government  agent  or  spy,  and  this  suspicion  must  be 
entirely  removed  before  I  can  negotiate  with  them.  I 
tell  them  that  I  regard  the  country  as  theirs,  and  that  I 


492  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

have  no  rights  in  it  except  what  they  please  to  grant  me. 
They  hsten  attentively,  and  the  result  of  our  interview  is, 
that  they  are  perfectly  willing  to  take  me  wherever  I 
wish  to  go,  and  aid  me  in  any  way  in  their  power.  That 
is  a  great  point  gained,  for  my  life  is  in  their  hands. 
This  business  is  accomphshed  sometimes  in  half  a  day, 
and  sometimes  it  requires  two  whole  days.  For  with 
the  Arab  the  process  of  coming  to  the  point  is  a  long 
one.  He  begins  as  remotely  as  possible  from  the 
business  in  hand,  and  works  up  to  it  little  by  Httle. 
For  instance,  if  a  man  wanted  to  buy  youi*  horse,  he 
would  come  to  your  tent  and  talk  about  everything  he 
could  think  of  except  the  horse  itseK,  and  quite  likely, 
for  a  whole  day,  he  would  not  even  mention  the  animal. 
Were  he  to  approach  the  matter  at  once  and  abruptly,  he 
would  expect  that  the  price  would  be  three  or  four  times 
the  real  value  of  the  horse.*  In  making  purchases  of  the 
Arabs,  or  bargains  of  any  kind,  it  will  not  do  to  appear 
too  anxious.  It  is  not  their  nature  to  come  to  an  agree- 
ment directly;  besides,  time  is  of  no  consideration  to  them, 
while  to  a  Yankee  it  is  everything.  But,  if  one  is  patient 
and  honest,  one  can  generally  secure  what  he  wishes. 

Treated  in  the  way  now  indicated,  these  men  become 
my  friends.  At  the  conclusion  of  this  long  process,  we 
come  to  an  agreement  as  to  the  price  I  am  to  pay  for 
their  assurance  of  safety  while  in  theii*  hands,  and  of 
protection  from  others.     I  generally  paid  about  two  doUars 

*  With  regard  to  buying  horses,  Burckhardt  makes  the  following 
statement:  "The  Arabs  are  ignorant  of  those  frauds  by  which 
a  European  jockey  deceives  a  purchaser.  One  may  take  a  horse  on 
their  word,  at  first  sight  or  trial,  without  any  risk  of  being  cheated  " 
("Bedouin  and  Wahabys,"  i.,  p.  213).  This  may  be  true  ;  still,  in  my 
mind,  it  is  very  doubtful  if  among  horse-dealers  in  any  part  of  the 
world  human  nature  is  capable  of  reaching  such  a  degree  of  honesty 
as  this  language  would  imply. 


AJJAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESERT.  493 

a  day  for  such  services.  The  sheikh  himself  or  some 
meinbers  of  his  family  would  always  go  with  us.  This 
man,  or  these  men,  represented  the  authority  of  that 
particular  tribe,  and  they  served  also  as  mediums  by 
which  we  were  introduced  to  neighboring  tribes.  For 
the  price  just  named,  I  was  furnished  with  from  four 
to  six  men.  We  needed  one  with  oiu'selves,  one  or 
two  with  the  camp,  and  one  or  two  for  night  duty  and 
as  messengers.  With  these  precautions  taken  beforehand, 
I  moved  about  then*  country  in  perfect  safety,  so  far  as 
I  am  aware,  and  was  never'  treated  rudely  by  them,  and 
never  had  au}i:hing  stolen  from  me ;  consequently  I  have 
no  thrilling  adventures  to  relate,  no  haii'breadth  escapes. 
I  saw  no  "proud  son  of  the  desert,"  his  "eyes  flashing 
fii-e,"  his  "lips  quivering  with  rage,"  "drawing  himseK 
up  on  his  foaming  steed,"  and  "brandishing  his  spear," 
while  I  "  trembled  between  life  and  death," — of  all  that 
kind  of  nonsense  which  .sensational  travellers  and  wi-iters 
put  into  their  books,  I  saw  nothing.  Although  my  inter- 
coiu'se  with  the  Arabs  was  extensive,  my  experience  was 
rather  tame. 

Once,  however,  I  came  near  becoming  a  hero  or  mar- 
tyr, at  least  having  a  little  experience.  My  old  uncle  used 
to  say  that "  experience  is  what  a  man  experiences  when 
he  experiences  his  experience."  On  this  occasion  I  was 
alone,  among  some  hdls,  at  a  distance  from  our  guides  and 
camp,  and  met  a  man  who  asked  me  for  a  present.  He 
was  a  highway  robber,  and  this  was  a  j^olite  way  of 
demanding  my  money.  As  I  refused  and  passed  on,  he 
pointed  his  gun  at  me,  and  repeated  his  request  with  a 
great  deal  of  emphasis.  But  I  still  went  on,  and  his  gun 
did  not  go  off !  I  had  some  experience  in  our  war, 
and  never  liked  to  look  into  the  muzzle  of  a  loaded 
gun,  especially  when  it  was  in  the  hands  of  an  enemy. 


494  EAST  OF  THE  JOBBAN. 

Here  were  the  elements  of  a  really  tragic  tale,  and  if  I 
had  possessed  the  power  to  have  worked  it  up  after  the 
most  approved  sensational  methods  it  would  no  doubt 
have  made  famous  the  very  humble  reputation  of  a 
humble  explorer.  It  certainly  would,  I  imagine,  if  the 
gun  had  gone  off. 

This  fact  leads  me  to  say  that  there  are  highway 
robbers  among  the  Bedawin,  just  as  there  are  in  civil- 
ized countries,  but  the  robberies  are  comparatively  rare. 
When,  however,  the  Arab  undertakes  to  rob,  it  is  astonish- 
ing to  observe  what  thorough  work  he  makes.  He  does 
nothing  by  halves. 

Once,  during  our  war,  one  of  our  own  scouts  was 
captured  and  taken  to  the  head-quarters  of  the  enemy. 
The  scout  was  well  di'essed,  and  the  first  question  the 
poorly  clad  rebel  officer  put  to  him  was  :  "  Young  man, 
peel  out  of  that  coat  '* ;  the  second  remark  was :  "  Get 
up  out  of  those  boots,"  and  the  third  request  was : 
"  Gret  down  out  of  that  hat."  In  like  manner,  but  even 
worse  than  this,  the  Arabs  take  all  that  the  unfortunate 
victim  has. 

It  is  not  uncommon,  however,  in  the  towns,  to  meet 
with  an  ugly  fellow, —  a  person  who  woiild  rob  or  other- 
wise injvire  a  stranger.  The  sheikh  of  Siif,  a  village  on 
the  eastern  slope  of  the  G-ilead  hills,  has  a  bad  reputation. 
He  has  caused  some  of  the  few  travellers  who  have  \'isited 
that  region  a  great  deal  of  trouble.  He  annoyed  Di". 
Tristram,  and  on  one  occasion  even  prevented  him  from 
going  to  Gerash.  I  have  seen  this  man  often,  but  have 
had  little  to  do  with  him,  because  I  was  under  the 
j)rotection  of  the  Arabs  of  whom  he  was  afraid.  He 
has  a  number  of  recommendations  from  parties  whom  he 
has  assisted  at  different  times.  These  papers  he  always 
wishes  to  show  to  new-comers,  and  one  of  them  he  prizes 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESEBT.  495 

as  particularly  valuable,  for  whenever  lie  shows  it  he 
remarks :  "  This  is  a  good  one,  because  when  Franghis 
see  it  they  always  laugh."  The  document  is  from  one  of 
his  victims,  and  reads :  "I  was  a  stranger,  and  he  took 
me   in ! " 

Perhaps  among  no  other  people  are  gifts  so  influ- 
ential as  among  the  Arabs.  Hence,  whenever  I  settled 
with  my  Bedawin  I  gave  them,  besides  all  that  I  had  agreed 
to  pay,  some  small  presents.  It  was  no  easy  task  to 
select  what  they  wanted  or  could  use.  I  found  it  was  as 
difficult  a  problem  as  the  ladies  of  a  parish  have  when 
they  attempt  to  make  their  unmarried  minister  a  present 
at  Christmas.  The  Arabs  wear  little  clothing,  and  what 
they  possess  is  very  plain.  They  have  no  houses,  and  do 
not  read  books.  Hence,  watches,  diaries,  neckties,  dress- 
ing-gowns, slippers,  pictures,  brackets,  silver  fruit-knives, 
etc.,  they  do  not  want.  They  coidd  not  use  or  sell  these 
things  if  they  had  them.  But  they  have  a  passion  for 
sweets,  and,  instead  of  giving  them  what  would  be  worth- 
less, I  gave  them  coffee  and  sugar.  Indeed,  two  or  three 
loaves  of  sugar  form  as  acceptable  a  present  with  them  as 
can  weU  lie  selected,  unless  one  makes  it  five  or  six  loaves. 

As  to  the  religion  of  the  Bedawin,  they  are  all  Moham- 
medans, and  are  quite  fanatical ;  but  in  my  experience 
the  wild  Arabs  of  the  desert  have  not  seemed  so  much  so 
as  the  Moslems  of  the  large  towns,  and  these,  in  turn,  are 
not  so  bad  in  this  respect  as  the  Turks.  The  Arabs  often 
blame  the  Turks  for  their  fanaticism  and  fatalism.  Their 
religious  duties  consist  in  praying  at  certain  times  and 
keeping  certain  fasts.  Some  of  our  men,  however,  I  never 
saw  in  prayer,  while  others  I  have  seen  praying  often. 
Hence  I  cannot  say  whether  all  Mohammedans  pray  or  not. 
The  name  of  God  is  frequently  upon  their  lips;  if  not  in 


496  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

prayer  or  ejaculations,  it  is  in  curses.  From  tlie  same 
mouth  proceed  blessings  and  curses.  But  they  are  by  no 
means  so  profane  as  the  people  of  the  towns,  where  blas- 
phemy is  carried  to  a  fearful  extent.  In  the  profanity  of 
these  people,  whether  of  the  village  or  the  desert,  with  all 
that  is  frightful,  there  is  likewise  a  comical  element.  For 
instance,  a  man  will  be  beating  his  donkey  with  a  great 
stone  or  huge  stick, — beating  him,  one  would  think,  with 
sufficient  violence  to  break  every  bone  in  his  body, —  and 
at  the  same  time  he  will  be  cvirsing  him  in  such  language 
as  this  :  "  May  God  curse  your  master !  may  God  cm-se 
your  master ! "  never  appearing  to  notice  that  he  is  curs- 
ing himself.  Or,  a  man  will  be  beating  his  boy  unmerci- 
f  idly  and  cursing  him  in  the  same  manner :  "  May  God 
curse  your  father  !  "  thus  calling  down  a  cui'se  upon  him- 
seK,  instead  of  his  boy.  And  if  he  wishes  to  be  very 
severe,  he  will  say  :  "  May  God  curse  yoiu"  grandfather !  " 
I  made  special  efforts  to  obtain  from  some  Arabs  with 
whom  I  was  quite  familiar  an  idea  of  theii'  notions  of  God 
and  of  the  future  life.  On  these  subjects,  however,  they 
were  very  reticent.  It  is  probable  that  they  had  no  ideas 
to  express.  I  suspect  that  their  thoughts  are  at  best  very 
vague  respecting  God,  the  soul,  and  immortality.  They 
have  apparently  very  little  respect  for  theu"  departed 
friends,  and  those  who  die  are  soon  forgotten.  Their  man- 
ner of  burial  would  indicate  this.  The  bodies  are  j^laced 
in  the  ground,  to  be  sure,  but  are  protected  from  violence 
only  by  the  thinnest  covering  of  dirt  and  stones.  They 
would  not  allow  a  foreigner  to  touch  the  grave  of  one  of 
their  friends;  but  they  do  not  seem  to  regard  it  as  very 
sacred  themselves.  In  fact,  I  have  seen  them  in  the  act  of 
stealing  graves ;  that  is,  they  would  clear  out  an  old 
grave  in  order  to  deposit  there  the  body  of  a  jierson 
just    deceased.      "When    I    expressed    my    surprise,     and 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  BESEBT.  497 

rebuked  them  as  far  as  I  dared,  tliey  replied  that  the 
dead  man  who  was  buried  there  could  not  possibly  waut 
his  grave  any  longer.  As  I  could  not  prove  that  he  did, 
the  argument  ended.  Some  of  theb."  dead  appear  to 
escape  the  general  oblivion  to  which  the  masses  are  con- 
signed, and  become  what  are  called  saints.  The  place 
where  such  a  person  is  buried  is  called  a  wely.  It  is 
marked  by  a  tomb,  which,  in  its  best  condition,  is  a  monu- 
ment with  a  dome,  whitewashed  or  painted  white.  In 
remote  sections,  and  usually  east  of  the  Jordan,  these 
places  are  marked  by  rude  piles  of  stones.  These  ivelies 
are  regarded  as  sacred  places ;  they  are  often  visited, 
and  prayers  are  said  in  the  supposed  presence  of  the  saint. 
I  am  told  that  they  never  pray  to  a  saint  directly. 

As  I  have  elsewhere  intimated,  the  property  of  the 
Arabs  is  frequently  stored  near  one  of  these  tombs,  and 
is  as  safe  as  if  it  were  under  lock  and  key.  No  theft  is 
ever  committed  within  those  sacred  precincts.  If  a  person 
should  dare  do  such  a  thing,  ministers  of  vengeance  from 
the  unseen  world  would  follow  him  all  the  days  of  his  life. 

In  some  cases  a  great  tree  stands  over  the  grave  of  the 
saint.  Sometimes,  when  there  is  no  other  large  tree 
within  thirty  miles,  there  will  be  one  over,  or  near,  one  of 
these  graves.  These  landmarks  were  very  serviceable  to 
us  in  carrying  on  the  work  of  the  survey.  The  lower  limbs 
of  such  a  tree  will  often  be  covered  with  pieces  of  string 
and  rags,  or  locks  of  hair,  that  have  been  brought  there  by 
xasitors  who  have  come  to  pray.  A  lock  of  haii"  from 
some  sick  person,  or  a  rag  from  his  clothing,  is  often 
brought  and  tied  to  the  limbs,  or  fastened  to  the  stones, 
and  in  such  eases  it  is  supposed  that  it  will  have  great 
efficacy  in  restoring  him  to  health. 

I  have  referred  to  the  fact  that  the  Arabs  use  no  wine, 
and  some  of  them  do  not  even  use  tobacco.     They  never 


498  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

chew  tobacco,  but  only  smoke  it,  and  chiefly  in  the  foi*m 
of  cigarettes.  Among  the  Druzes  of  the  Hauran,  there 
are  a  large  number  of  men  who  never  touch  any  wine, 
tobacco,  or  even  coffee;  in  fact,  they  make  this  a  part 
of  theii"  religion.  But  while  they  (i.  e.,  the  Druzes)  are 
very  strict  in  these  matters,  their  morals  are  very  ques- 
tionable in  respect  to  some  other  things.  These  very 
men  would  not  hesitate  to  lie  or  steal,  and  if  the  cir- 
cumstances were  favorable,  it  is  probable  that  they  would 
not  hesitate  to  cut  a  person's  throat. 

I  add  here  a  paragraph  from  Burckhardt,  illustrating 
further  this  secret  or  special  order  among  these  people : 

''The  Druzes  of  the  Hauran  have  the  class  of  men 
called  Akoul,  who  are  distinguished  from  the  rest  liy  a 
white  turban,  and  the  peculiarity  of  the  folds  in  which 
they  wear  it.  The  Akoul  are  not  permitted  to  smoke 
tobacco ;  they  never  swear,  and  are  very  reserved  in  their 
manners  and  conversation.  I  was  informed  that  these 
were  their  only  obligations ;  and  it  appears  probable,  for 
I  observed  Akoul  boys  of  eight  or  ten  years  of  age,  from 
whom  nothing  more  difi&cidt  coidd  well  be  expected,  and 
to  whom  it  is  not  likely  that  any  important  secret  would 
be  imparted.  I  have  seen  Akouls  of  that  age,  whose 
fathers  were  not  of  the  order,  because,  as  they  told  me, 
they  could  not  abstain  from  smoking  and  swearing" 
(Burckhardt,  "  Travels,"  etc.,  p.  304). 

The  Bedawin  have  curiosity  finely  developed.  I  think 
the  men  among  the  Arabs  have  this  ''bump"  much  more 
prominently  than  the  women. 

Whenever  you  meet  an  Arab,  you  will  find  him,  as  a 
rule,  full  of  questions.  His  first  inquiiy  will  be:  "Where 
is  your  face?"  which  is  a  good  Semitic  idiom  for 
"  Where  are  you  bound  ? "  If  you  meet  him  on  the  road,  he 
will  wish  you  to  stop  until  he  has  asked  where  you  came 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  BESEBT.  499 

ivctm,  why  you  came  from  that  place,  where  you  are 
going,  why  you  are  going  there,  of  what  nation  you 
are,  and  other  questions  about  your  gun  and  horse, 
until  you  are  thoroughly  tii'ed,  and  spur  on  your  beast 
to  escape  his  volley  of  interrogations.  If  he  comes  to 
your  tent,  you  have  to  stand  a  regular  siege;  youi'  tent, 
your  furniture,  your  clothing,  and  whatever  object  the 
keen  eye  of  the  Bedawin  falls  upon,  must  be  examined, 
explained,  and  remarked  upon,  until  the  matter  becomes 
irksome.  It  would  not  answer,  however,  to  show  that  you 
were  tired,  impatient,  or  disgusted.  Patience  is  a  virtue 
that  must  be  largely  exercised  on  aU  occasions. 

Among  my  implements,  perhaps  the  field-glass  was  to 
them  the  greatest  cariosity.  Some  could  never  under- 
stand how  to  use  it ;  but  those  who  did,  would  break  out 
into  the  most  extravagant  exclamations  of  surprise  that 
are  known  to  the  Arabic  language,  and  that  means  a 
great  deal. 

Some  men,  while  in  my  tent  one  day,  caught  sight 
of  a  photograph  of  a  lady,  which  lay  on  the  table, 
and  this  afforded  entertainment  for  a  long  time,  not 
only  that  day,  but  on  subsequent  occasions.  They  were 
very  much  interested  in  the  ear-rings  and  breastpin, 
although  these  were  very  plain,  and  a  European  would 
not  have  noticed  them.  The  eyebrows  seemed  to  attract 
attention,  and  excited  remark,  but  for  what  special  reason 
I  never  knew.  The  occasion  did  not  pass  "without  my 
being  questioned  as  to  this  picture.  They  wanted  to  know 
who  it  was.  I  replied :  "  It  is  my  wife."  Then  they  all 
smiled,  and  in  true  Arabic  fashion  exclaimed:  "  Praise  the 
Lord ! " 

Some  conversation  followed,  in  the  course  of  which  I 
refeiTcd  to  the  fact  that  in  America  both  our  religion 
and  oiu*  law  required  that  a  man  should  have  but  one 


500  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

wife,  whereupon  one  of  my  friends,  who  was  a  sheikh, 
said  that  he  also  had  one  wife,  and  as  I  merely 
nodded  in  reply,  he  continued  :  "'  I  think  one  wife  is 
enough."  But  I  should  do  this  wild  Arab  injustice  if  I 
did  not  explain  his  meaning.  Some  men  in  America,  if 
they  had  used  that  phrase,  would  have  impHed  hy  it  that 
one  wife  was  too  many.  But  a  sentiment  so  contemptible 
as  that  did  not  occur  to  the  Arab.  He  had  in  mind  the 
Moslem  custom  which  allows  a  man  to  have  more  than  one 
wife,  if  he  chooses,  and  can  support  them.  The  Arab 
meant  to  say  that  he  preferred  the  custom  of  having  one 
wife  rather  than  that  of  having  many  wives ;  and  so  far 
as  my  observation  goes,  the  instances  where  there  is  a 
plurality  of  wives  are  rare  among  the  desert  Arabs.  Such 
a  sentiment  volunteered  by  a  wild  Bedawin  is  significant 
of  what  they  might  be  taught. 

A  trait  in  the  Bedawin  character  to  which  I  wish  to 
give  some  prominence  is  their  generosity.  As  a  rule,  they 
are  really  very  liberal,  according  to  their  means,  in  the 
presents  they  make  to  their  friends.  But  they  are  too 
human  not  to  expect  some  reward ;  and  when  large  gifts 
are  offered  to  a  foreigner,  it  is  expected  that  he  will 
immediately,  or  at  some  future  time,  make  a  generous  gift 
in  return.  I  have  had  sheep,  goats,  horses,  and  camels 
presented  to  me,  but  I  could  not  accept  them,  even  if  I. had 
wanted  the  animals,  because  I  could  not  make  any  suit- 
able compensation.  If  I  could  accept,  without  reward,  all 
the  animals  of  various  kinds  that  would  be  presented  to 
me  during  a  residence  of  two  or  three  years  among  these 
people,  I  could,  hke  Jacob,  return  rich  in  flocks  and  herds. 

Something  also  must  be  said  as  to  the  cleanliness  of  the 
Arabs.  They  are  not  so  filthy  as  it  is  commonly  supposed, 
or  as  they  are  generally  described.  They  certainly  wash  a 
gi-eat  deal.     That  fact,  however,  does  not  guarantee  per- 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESERT.  501 

sonal  neatness.  Foot-sore  and  faint,  an  Arab  will  come  to 
a  fountain  and  wash  in  it  his  hair,  ears,  face,  and  mouth, 
and  even  his  feet  and  limbs,  before  drinking  of  the  water. 
After  a  long  journey  under  a  hot  sun,  we  frequently  have 
reached  a  stream,  thankful  at  the  prospect  of  relieving 
our  thirst  with  a  draught  of  fresh  water,  only  to  find,  to 
our  disgust,  that  just  around  a  projecting  bank,  fifty  yards 
or  so  from  us,  a  lot  of  Arabs  were  taking  a  bath,  or  a 
number  of  Arab  women  were  doing  their  washing.  Appar- 
ently it  matters  not  to  an  Arab  how  many  animals  have 
waded  in  a  fountain,  or  how  many  women  have  done  their 
washing  in  it,  the  water  is  none  the  less  water  to  him,  and 
answers  just  as  well  for  the  purpose  of  quenching  thirst. 

It  may  be  said  in  this  connection,  that  the  women  either 
sit  on  the  bank  to  wash  or  on  stones  in  the  stream  itself, 
and  even  when  the  washing  is  done  in  the  camp  or  at  the 
house,  they  never  stand  for  that  purpose,  but  always  sit 
on  the  floor  or  on  a  low  stool. 

One  day  we  pitched  our  tents  by  a  stream,  along  both 
sides  of  which,  for  a  considerable  distance  above  us, 
stretched  the  black  tents  of  an  Arab  encampment.  As 
soon  as  possible,  I  found  some  boys  whom  I  asked  to 
direct  me  to  the  fountain,  which  was  at  no  great  distance 
towards  the  hill.  I  always  aimed  to  make  friends  with 
the  boys,  for  even  in  Arab-land  they  were  very  service- 
able in  many  ways.  In  this  case  I  wanted  to  get  a  drink 
of  clean  water,  and  to  use  my  own  eyes  as  a  witness 
that  it  was  clean.  As  we  approached  the  fountain,  a  half- 
dozen  goats  and  small  cattle  were  standing  in  it,  drinking 
and  cooling  their  feet.  With  some  urging  they  walked  out 
leisurely,  and  I  sat  down  on  the  bank  waiting  until  the 
water  had  cleared  itself,  for  the  fountain  was  liut  a  small 
one.  Meantime,  I  asked  the  boys  with  me  if  the  water  was 
good  to  drink.     In  an  instant  they  bared  their  little  limbs 


502  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

and  bodies,  and  wading  in  up  to  the  waist,  cried  out 
to  me  :  ''  See,  the  water  is  good,  very  good ;  give  us  your 
cup  and  we  will  fill  it."  They  thought  they  had  proved  to 
me  in  the  most  convincing  manner  that  the  water  was 
good  to  drink,  because  it  was  good  to  bathe  in.  We,  in 
this  country,  want  to  know  whether  water  is  clean  before 
we  drink  it,  but  this  question  an  Arab  seldom  or  never 
asks.     Fastidiousness  is  unknown  to  him. 

The  children  among  the  Bedawin  always  interested  me. 
They  are  very  bright,  and,  considering  their  circumstances, 
are  quite  intelligent.  I  sometimes  entered  into  conversation 
with  them  in  order  to  ascertain  what  were  their  ideas  of 
life,  and  what  they  proposed  to  do  with  themselves  when 
they  came  to  be  men.  In  response  to  my  question,  one  little 
fellow  said  that  he  was  going  to  save  up  his  money  and 
buy  a  few  goats,  and  after  that  he  should  keep  on  saving 
his  money,  and  buy  two  or  three  cows.  ''  What  will  you  do 
then  ? "  I  said.  "  Well,  I  would  sell  the  goats  and  the  cows 
and  buy  two  or  three  camels."  At  that  his  face  briglitened, 
as  if  to  own  some  camels  would  make  a  man  of  him. 
"And  after  you  get  your  camels,  what  will  you  do?" 
"  Why,  then,"  said  he,  thoughtfully,  "  I  shall  get  married." 
"  And  after  that,  what  will  you  do  ?  "  "  Well,  I  suppose," 
said  he,  after  a  little  pause,  "  after  that,  I  must  get  ready 
to  die." 


CHAPTER   XXXVIII. 
Arab   Life   in  the   Desert. — Concluded. 

Women  of  the  Arabs.  Eeserve.  Inqiiiries  after  "your  boys." 
Foreign  women  only  can  learn  about  their  domestic  and  private  life. 
Demonstration  of  affection.  Degraded  position.  Doing  the  menial 
service.  Contrast  between  Christianity  and  Mohammedanism. 
Absence  of  old  women.  A  woman  is  a  "  thing."  Field  for  Christian 
missions.  Tent-Hfe  no  drawback.  Passion  for  jewelry.  Their 
dress.  No  change  in  the  fashion.  Young  Bedawin  women.  A  wife 
costs  money.  High  price  paid.  A  young  man  in  love.  Custom  of 
dyeing  the  hair.  Ked  hair  highly  prized.  The  foreign  medicine- 
man, or  ImMm,  everywhere  welcome.  Demonstrative  in  conversation. 
Their  conversational  powers.  Fond  of  songs  and  stories.  The 
''yellow  hen."  Fertile  in  inventing  odd  names.  Many  interesting 
traits  in  their  character.  Prospects  for  improvement,  if  they  could 
be  brought  under  a  good  government.  Possibility  of  educating  and 
Christianizing  the  Bedawin. 

A  GOOD  deal  might  be  said  of  the  women  of  the  Arabs. 
They  are  an  interesting,  although  a  degraded,  class. 
Woman's  position  among  them  is  very  undesirable,  accord- 
ing to  our  ideas  of  life.  In  the  towns,  the  Moslem  women 
are  kept  secluded,  and  it  is  considered  a  breach  of  etiquette 
for  a  man  to  address  them.  But  in  the  desert  they  are 
less  restricted.  They  seldom  wear  a  veil,  and  if  a  man 
addresses  them,  no  offence  is  given.  When  we  pitched  our 
tents  near  an  encampment,  the  women  would  often  gather 


504  EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 

about  oiir  door  and  ask  us  very  many  questions,  some  of 
them  curious  enough.  Their  first  inquiry  would  very  likely 
be:  "  Are  you  married?"  If  you  responded  in  the  tdfirma- 
tive,  they  would  immediately  ask  about  the  color  of  j^our 
wife's  hair,  and  if  she  wore  rings  in  her  nose,  and  they 
woidd  certainly  ask  if  she  had  boys.  This  is  a  most 
important  consideration  with  the  Arab  women.  An  Arab 
never  asks  after  your  family  or  daughters,  but  only  after 
your  boys.  A  native  woman  whom  I  knew  in  Beirut,  who 
was  not  a  Bedawin,  of  course,  had  several  daughters  but 
no  sons.  Her  neighbors,  in  speaking  of  her,  said,  "  Poor 
thing,  poor  thing,  she  's  got  no  chddi'en,  only  girls  ! " 

We  often  found  the  women  whom  we  met  in  our  work 
or, on  our  journeys  quite  as  ready  as  the  men  to  give  us 
the  information  we  desired  about  the  roads,  places,  and 
distances,  and  where  springs  and  fountains  existed;  for  in 
the  desert  the  question  is  often  asked  where  water  can  be 
found.  As  I  have  said,  they  exhibited  much  curiosity, 
and  asked  cimous  and  puzzling  questions,  but  they  did 
not  appear  to  carry  tlieir  inquisitiveness  so  far  as  the 
men.* 

A  man,  particularly  a  foreigner,  can  learn  almost 
nothing  about  the  home  or  tent  life  of  the  Arab  women. 

*  In  connection  with  the  enriosity  of  this  people,  some  native  women 
called  one  day  upon  a  friend  of  mine  in  'Abeih,  and  after  asking  many 
questions  about  what  they  saw,  one  of  them  took  up  a  button-hook 
which  lay  on  the  table,  and  said  very  innocently  to  the  lady  she  was 
visiting,  ' '  I  suppose  this  is  one  of  your  ear-rings  ?  " 

A  missionary  was  once  travelling  in  the  region  a  short  distance 
south  of  Damascus,  and  stopped  to  examine  some  ruins.  While  doing 
so,  the  Arab  women  from  the  neighboring  encampment  gathered  about 
him  and  appeared  to  amuse  themselves  by  commenting  upon  his  person 
and  manners.  Among  other  things  said,  one  woman  remarked  :  "Just 
see  what  si^indling  legs  he  has  !  "  whereupon  they  all  laughed.  Doubt- 
less not  one  of  them  realized  that  the  stranger  overheard  their  conver- 
sation, and  knew  perfectly  well  what  they  were  saying. 


ASAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESERT.  505 

Their  thouglits,  hopes,  fears,  plans,  songs,  nursery  rhymes, 
jealousies,  etc.,  can  never  be  learned,  except  as  foreign 
women  go  among  them  and  live  for  a  considerable  time, 
and  secure  their  confidence. 

On  one  occasion  only  have  I  seen  any  particular  demon- 
stration of  affection  between  an  Arab  and  the  female 
members  of  his  family.  With  my  friend  'Ali  Nimr,  I 
stopped  one  day  for  lunch  at  a  large  group  of  tents  which 
belonged  to  his  relatives,  and  we  were  cared  for  in  good 
style.  As  we  approached  the  principal  tent,  a  middle-aged 
woman  and  a  young  woman  came  out  and  greeted  'Ali  in 
the  most  cordial  manner.  He  in  turn  embraced  and  kissed 
them  both.  They  were  his  mother  and  his  half-sister. 
Of  the  latter,  who  was  less  than  half  his  own  age,  he 
seemed  particularly  fond.  They  showed  us  a  great  many 
attentions,  and  prepared  dinner  for  him,  but  did  not  eat 
with  us. 

As  a  rule,  woman  among  the  Arabs — and  this  is  true  of 
the  women  in  all  Mohammedan  countries — is  regai-ded  as 
greatly  inferior  to  her  husband.  Her  position  is  that  of  a 
menial  or  a  slave.  AU  the  slave's  work  of  the  camp 
devolves  upon  her.  Women,  as  we  have  said,  must  provide 
all  the  firewood.  x\s  in  large  sections  there  are  no  trees  or 
bushes,  they  collect  the  di'oppings  of  camels  and  knead 
them  into  cakes,  which,  being  dried,  serve  as  fuel.  Indeed, 
this  is  the  staple  article  of  fiiel  through  all  that  region, 
soiith  into  Arabia,  east  to  the  Euphrates,  and  north  far 
up  into  Armenia.  Women  must  also  bring  all  the  water 
that  is  used.  The  distance  to  the  spring  or  fountain 
is  often  two  or  three  miles.  In  such  cases,  donkeys 
transport  the  bags  or  skins  of  water ;  but  if  the  dis- 
tance is  not  great,  the  women  are  expected  to  bring  these 
skins  on  their  backs.  Men  seldom  or  never  do  this  work, 
and  we  could  never  get  them  to  bring  water  for  us,  but 
22 


506  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

must  always  employ  women  for  that  purpose.  Even  our 
own  servants  felt  that  they  were  humiliated  if,  on  certain 
occasions,  they  were  obliged  to  bring  the  water.  The 
women  were  generally  ready  to  do  this,  for  which  we 
always  paid  them  a  small  sum. 

The  women  mend  the  tents  and  do  aU  the  washing  and 
cooking  that  are  required.  These  operations  are,  however, 
reduced  to  a  minimum.  The  woman's  duties,  from  her 
stand-point,  no  doubt  seem  laborious  and  her  cares  great. 
She  has  her  trials  as  civilized  women  have  theirs ;  but  her 
duties  all  told  would  not  seem  to  us  very  irksome,  and,  in 
her  case,  they  are  hardly  sufficient  to  keep  her  above  idle- 
ness. The  Moslem  woman  is  ignorant,  and  in  an  important 
sense  the  doctrine  of  Mohammed  is  true,  that  she  has  no 
soul.  This  is  no  fault  of  hers,  but  it  is  the  direct  result 
of  that  terrible  religion  which  curses  her  life.  She  has 
no  light  from  above,  and  her  condition  at  best  is  one 
of  great  degi'adation  and  wretchedness. 

If  one  wishes  to  appreciate  the  difference  between  the 
Mohammedan  and  Christian  religions,  let  him  contrast  a 
score  or  more  of  elderly  women  in  America — their  char- 
acters refined  by  the  experience  and  honors  of  many  years, 
and  their  faces  radiant  with  the  hope  of  a  life  to  come — 
with  the  same  number  from  any  country  where  Moham- 
medanism prevails,  and  the  contrast  will  be  painful  in 
the  extreme. 

That  religion  which  degrades  women  to  the  level  of 
the  brute,  how  far  soever  in  the  days  of  darkness  it  may 
have  spread  out  its  curse  over  the  fair  lands  of  our  earth, 
is  destined  inevitably  to  crumble  away  and  disappear 
before  the  spirit  and  power  of  that  pure  religion  which 
begins  by  teaching  that  a  man  shall  honor  his  mother  with 
a  reverence  second  only  to  that  which  he  pays  to  God. 

A  fact  which  seemed  to  me  remarkable  was  the  absence  of 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESEBT.  507 

old  women.  I  never  saw  any,  except  on  two  or  three  occa- 
sions. I  made  many  inquiries  among  the  Ai'abs,  but  could 
not  learn  what  became  of  them.  Neither  could  the  mission- 
aries, nor  the  other  foreign  residents  in  the  country,  throw 
any  light  on  the  matter.  Possibly  their  exposed  manner 
of  life  in  the  desert  does  not  conduce  to  longevity  in  the 
females  of  the  race.  It  is  currently  reported  that  the 
Turks  have  some  easy  method  of  relieving  such  persons  of 
life  as  soon  as  they  become  a  burden.  This  may  be  true  of 
the  Arabs  as  well  as  the  Tui*ks — if  it  is  true  at  all.  I  was 
really  glad  that  they  had  passed  out  of  existence,  for  the 
few  seen  were  disgusting  in  the  extreme.  The  lot  of  an 
Ai'ab  woman  is  a  hard  one.  As  a  girl  she  is  valued  for  the 
price  she  will  bring  when  she  shall  be  sought  in  mar- 
riage. As  a  woman  she  is  regarded  as  a  menial,  and  her 
life  is  wretched;  if  she  arrives  at  old  age, —  and  forty  or 
fifty  years  is  considered  an  advanced  age, —  she  becomes 
wi-inkled  and  haggard,  without  a  single  comely  or  redeem- 
ing feature,  one  of  the  most  disgusting  objects  that  mortal 
eyes  ever  looked  upon,  bearing  the  name  of  woman. 

Perhaps  the  real  condition  of  woman  among  the  Arabs 
can  be  illustrated  by  an  incident  which  came  under  my 
own  observation.  A  man  came  to  our  tent  one  day 
and  wanted  medicine.  He  told  his  story  in  a  very  cau- 
tious manner,  and  we  could  not  at  first  make  out  the 
piu-pose  of  his  request.  He  said :  "  Sir,  there  is  a  thing 
outside, —  God  forgive  me  for  mentioning  such  a  thing  in 
youi"  presence, — and  I  want  some  medicine  for  it."  If  the 
man  was  crazy  he  did  not  appear  so,  except  that  his  lan- 
guage was  strange.  After  a  while  we  learned  that  by 
"  thing  "  he  meant  his  wife )  she  was  sick,  but  able  to  leave 
her  tent,  and  he  had  brought  her  along  to  our  tent-door. 
He  considered  that  he  was  doing  us  honor  by  lea\dng  her 
outside,  asking  for  medicine  himself,  and  speaking  of  her 


508  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

as  "  a  tiling."  Alas  !  that  expresses  it ;  a  Mosl'em  woman 
is  "a  tiling" — a  thing  treated  with  contempt. 

My  oj^iuion  is  that  Moslem  women,  although  very 
wretched,  can  be  reached  more  easily  than  we  think  bj^  the 
elevating  and  purifying  influences  of  Christianity.  I  hope 
to  see  the  day  when  self-sacrificing  Chi'istian  women  will 
be  ready  to  go  among  these  degraded  but  interesting 
people  to  live  and  labor.  In  one  year,  or  in  ten  years, 
not  much  perhaps  could  be  accomplished,  but  in  a  genera- 
tion a  great  deal  might  be  done,  chiefly  by  example.  The 
young  girls  and  boys  could  certainly  be  educated  and 
taught  how  to  live,  to  cook,  and  to  make  themselves  decent 
and  comfortable.  At  least  a  trial  could  be  made,  and 
perhaps  the  way  would  be  opened  for  reclaiming  them 
from  barbarism. 

In  the  early  Christian  centuries  there  were  large  Chris- 
tian communities  among  the  wandering  tribes  inhabiting  a 
portion  of  these  very  regions. 

The  fact  of  tent-life  is  supposed  to  be  a  great  drawback 
to  missionary  labor  among  them ;  but  tent-life  is  very 
enjoyable  as  soon  as  one  becomes  accustomed  to  it.  Tents 
are  not  only  very  comfortable,  but  as  pleasant  a  home  can 
be  made  in  one  as  could  possibly  be  made  in  any  house 
of  any  town  or  village  in  Syria.  There  is  good  reason 
for  supposing  that  Job's  home  was  in  this  Hauran  region, 
and  he  must  have  lived  in  tents ;  it  would  be  just  as  easy 
for  missionaries  now  to  live  in  them  as  it  was  for  the 
patriarch. 

The  Bedawin  women  have  a  great  passion  for  jewehy. 
They  load  their  fingers,  wrists,  arms,  and  ankles  with 
ornaments  of  this  kind,  wearing  all  that  they  are  able  to 
buy,  and  I  do  not  know  but  aU  they  can  borrow,  also. 

The  dress  of  the  Bedawin  women  should  also  be  noticed, 
chiefly  from  the  fact  that  they  all  dress  alike,  and  fashion 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESEBT.  509 

never  changes.  The  uniform  costume  consists  of  a  loose 
robe  of  cotton  cloth,  which  is  always  dyed  blue.  The 
material  is  brought  into  the  country  and  colored  by  them- 
selves. The  di'ess  is  suspended  from  the  shoulders,  and  is 
worn  without  a  belt  at  the  waist.  When  new,  it  is  ample 
in  its  folds,  often  trailing,  and  is  flowing  at  the  sleeves  as 
well.  But  after  a  while  it  becomes  torn  and  shrunken 
by  washing,  until  it  no  longer  trails  and  ceases  to  be  flow- 
ing in  any  part.  In  fact,  after  a  time,  it  becomes  a  rather 
close  fit.  It  is  not  very  poetical  or  very  gaUant,  but  it 
is  the  truth,  when  the  wardrobe  of  the  Bedawin  woman 
is  described  as  a  bundle  of  blue  rags.  Ladies'  books  and 
fashion  plates,  French  milliners,  and  the  spring  and  autumn 
style  of  hat  or  dress, — such  thoughts  never  enter  her  mind. 
I  do  not  know  which  is  the  greater  barbarian,  the  wild 
Ai-ab  woman  who  knows  no  fashion,  or  a  civilized  woman 
who  knows  nothing  else. 

Many  of  the  young  Bedawin  women  have  quite  regular 
features,  and  would  be  fair-looking  if  they  did  not  tattoo 
their  faces.  This  method  of  disfigurement  is  almost 
universal.  They  are  rather  slight,  compared  with  women 
of  the  same  age  in  our  country,  and  are  only  of  medium 
height.  They  are,  however,  quite  erect.  I  find  in  an  author 
whose  book  on  the  East  was  read  twenty  years  ago  more 
than  it  is  to-day,  a  description  of  the  Bedawin  woman, 
which  is  as  follows :  ''  Her  light  and  airy  figure  has  that 
serpent  sinuousness  when  she  walks  that  constitutes  the 
very  poetry  of  motion,  and  resembles  gliding  rather  than 
walking."  I  have  seen  thousands  of  Arab  women,  but  I 
never  saw  any  like  that.  This  is  a  sunny-side  picture, — a 
perfect  gem  of  a  heliotype.  I  strongly  suspect  that  when 
the  author  referred  to  wrote  those  words,  he  had  in  mind 
some  one  much  nearer  England  than  any  Arab  woman,  of 
Syi'ia  or  Egypt. 


510  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

However  it  may  be  in  America,  among  the  Arabs  a  wife 
is  an  expensive  luxury.  This  is  true,  notwithstanding  the 
fact  that  after  she  is  married  she  becomes  a  slave.  She  is 
not  to  be  had  merely  for  the  asking.  "Women  are  not 
exactly  bought  and  sold ;  but  the  father,  or,  if  the  father 
is  dead,  the  relative  in  whose  care  the  girl  is,  expects  a 
marriage  present  according  to  his  rank.  The  young  man, 
instead  of  giving  his  bride  expensive  presents,  must  give 
them  to  the  girl's  father.  In  fact,  he  has  almost  to  bank- 
rupt himself  sometimes  in  order  to  obtain  the  object  of  his 
choice. 

A  young  man  whom  we  employed  for  a  short  time  as 
guide  told  us  that  his  wife  cost  him  twelve  thousand 
piastres,  which  would  be  equal  to  four  hundred  and  eighty 
dollars,  gold.  Another,  a  prominent  man  in  one  of  the 
small  tribes  in  the  Jordan  valley,  told  us  the  amount  his 
wife  cost  him,  as  follows :  one  fine  mare,  three  cows,  a  lot 
of  sheep,  and  some  money,  in  all  about  one  hundred 
napoleons,  which  would  equal  four  hundred  dollars,  gold. 
Considering  the  means  of  these  men, — and  theu'  oppor- 
tunities for  earning  money  are  very  limited,  compared  with 
those  of  men  of  the  same  rank  in  America, — the  prices 
paid  were  exorbitant.  And  when  I  came  to  see  the  women, 
I  still  thought  that  the  price  was  large  ! 

One  day  a  young  fellow  came  to  om-  tent,  apparently  in 
great  trouble.  His  actions  were  strange,  but  evidently  it 
was  not  pain  of  body  but  distress  of  mind  that  caused 
them.  He  was  desperately  in  love,  as  we  soon  ascertained, 
and  he  came  to  us  for  help.  Nothing,  however,  but  money 
would  afford  him  certain  relief.  The  friend  in  whose  care 
the  girl  was,  as  her  father  was  dead,  also  wanted  to  be 
married,  and  as  he  had  no  money,  he  wanted  to  exchange 
this  one  with  some  person  who  also  had  a  damsel  to  dispose 
of,  trading   girl  for   gui.     But   this   young   man  had  no 


AEAB  LIFE  IX  THE  DESERT.  511 

money  with  wliicli  to  buy  his  bride,  nor  any  relative  to  trade 
for  her,  and  because  of  the  large  price  demanded — an 
amount  which  he  could  not  hope  to  raise — he  was  in 
despair.  He  thought  that  if  we  should  see  the  friend  in 
whose  care  the  girl  was,  we  might  persuade  him  to  give 
her  up  without  money,  or  at  least  obtain  a  large  reduction 
from  the  amount  required;  or,  failing  in  that,  he  thought 
we  ourselves  would  give  him  money,  so  that  he  might 
obtain  the  object  of  his  choice,  and  thus  the  course  of  true 
love  be,  in  his  case,  no  longer  impeded.  He  was  very 
much  disappointed  when  we  told  him  that  it  was  beyond 
oui"  power  to  give  him  the  assistance  he  required,  and  that 
we  had  no  money  to  buy  the  giii  with.  We  suggested  that 
he  look  around  for  another  bride.  His  answer  was :  '^  No ; 
I  must  have  that  one."  We  learned  incidentally  that  any 
young  woman  whom  he  might  expect  to  marry — that  is, 
of  his  own  rank — would  cost  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  doUars. 

The  Ai*ab  women  have  the  habit  of  dyeing  their  haii".  I 
found  one  day  the  grave  of  some  prominent  man,  who  had 
been  much  admired  or  beloved.  A  stick  had  been  placed 
upright  at  the  head  and  another  at  the  foot  of  the  grave, 
and  a  line  stretched  between  them.  The  most  singular 
thing  about  it  was,  however,  that  the  women  who  admired 
him  had  cut  from  theii*  own  heads  twenty  or  thirty  cui-ls, 
or  tresses,  and  hung  them  in  a  row  upon  this  line.  Here 
were  white,  black,  red,  yellow,  and  intermediate  shades 
of  color,  showing  what  mischief  the  Bedawin  dye-stuffs 
and  hair  restoratives  had  played  with  the  natural  colors. 
The  unnatural  ones,  however,  predominated,  showing  the 
taste  of  the  Bedawin  women.  It  should  be  said  that 
among  the  Arabs,  red  hair,  as  well  as  saffron-colored  hair, 
is  looked  upon  as  a  mark  of  special  favor  of  God  to  its 
possessor. 


512  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

It  is  remarkable  how  great  an  influence  the  haMni,  or 
medicine-man,  especially  if  he  is  a  foreigner,  has  among 
the  Arabs.  They  treat  such  persons  with  the  highest 
respect ;  and  the  safest  passj)ort  among  all  the  tribes  of 
the  desert  would  be  a  knowledge  of  medicine  and  some 
boxes  of  pills.  The  requisite  articles,  however,  that  one 
would  need  to  provide  would  be  limited  in  number.  Imple- 
ments for  probing  shot-wounds,  and  lint  for  dressing  the 
same,  would  be  necessary,  and  also  some  simple  wash  for 
the  eyes.  The  common  complaints  met  with  among  the 
Arabs  are  diarrhoea  and  toothache.  I  have  mentioned 
that  I  once  encountered  the  smallpox. 

These  people  are  very  demonstrative  in  conversation. 
You  see  men  talking  together  in  the  most  excited  manner, 
sometimes  shouting  and  almost  screaming,  at  the  same 
time  gesticulating  violently,  and  in  our  country  you  would 
imagine  that  they  were  on  the  verge  of  a  desperate  fight, 
but  such  is  not  the  fact.  They  are  only  engaged  in  a  pleas- 
ant, neighborly  chat.  The  wild  Arabs,  however,  are  not  so 
demonstrative  as  the  people  in  the  villages  and  towns. 
They  notice  our  rather  guarded  manner  in  conversation, 
and  one  of  them  remarked  one  day :  '^  You  Americans 
speak  as  if  you  were  afraid  you  might  be  heard ;  we 
Arabs  speak  as  if  we  were  afraid  we  should  not  be." 

A  great  deal  could  be  said  of  the  conversational  powers 
of  the  Bedawin.  They  are  very  plausible  in  argument, 
and  carry  on  endless  discussions.  In  sophistry,  the  most 
oily-tongued  Franghi  cannot  be  compared  with  them. 
They  talk  politics,  and  take  considerable  interest  in  for- 
eign matters ;  but  as  reports,  by  the  time  they  reach  the 
desert,  are  very  much  distorted,  their  comments  upon  pub- 
lic affairs  are  very  strange  and  often  amusing.  These  peo- 
ple are  uniformly  oj)posed  to  Turkish  rule,  which  means 
to  them  nothing  less  than  robbery  and  oppression.     There 


ABAB  LIFE  IN  THE  DESEBT.  513 

are,  however,  only  a  few  of  the  tribes  before  mentioued 
that  have  been  brought  under  Turkish  dominion.  With 
the  Aneizeh,  the  Ruwalla,  and  other  tribes  of  the  interior, 
the  Turks  have  nothing  to  do. 

The  Arabs  are  fond  of  songs  and  stories  5  a  good  story- 
teller is  welcome  in  any  camp,  and  will  be  listened  to  hour 
after  hour.  Some  of  our  men  had  a  recitative  song  about  a 
yellow  hen,  which  went  something  like  our  little  story  of  the 
"  Three  Blind  Mice."  One  repeats  a  line,  and  then  another 
begins,  and  so  on  round  the  circle.  This  famous  hen  was 
yellow,  and  every  day  she  laid  an  egg,  and  every  night  she 
laid  another,  and  if  the  person  who  owned  her  were  to 
sell  her,  he  would  want  £1000.  In  other  words,  he  would 
not  sell  her  at  aU.  But  somehow,  after  a  while,  there  is  a 
gi'eat  feast,  and  the  hen  is  eaten.  This  is  the  substance 
of  the  yellow-hen  story.  But  the  men,  together  with  the 
Arabs,  would  repeat  it  hour  after  hour,  and  sometimes 
night  after  night,  except  when  they  had  become  too  weary 
with  camp  duty.  I  have  often  gone  to  bed  at  eleven  or 
twelve  o'clock,  and  sometimes  even  later,  while  the  men  in 
an  adjoining  tent,  or  among  the  animals  (where  in  pleasant 
weather  they  preferred  to  sleep),  were  saying  over  and  over 
again:  "I  had  a  yellow  hen,"  "I  had  a  yellow  hen."  The 
following  are  the  first  foui*  lines,  of  which  there  are  in  all 
forty-eight : 

'"Andi  jaji  safra  baiditlia  rattlain  ou  shadd, 
Kan  'andi  jaji  safra  b'tiswa  h'sanain  ou  muhra, 
Bitbeed  daghshi  ou  bissahra, 
Ou  baid  ed  dahwi  ma  b'tin'add." 

(Translation.) 

T  have  a  yellow  hen,  her  egg  is  two  rottles  and  more ; 
I  had  a  yellow  hen,  worth  two  horses  and  a  filly  ; 
She  laid  at  dusk  and  in  the  evening. 
And  the  eggs  of  the  day-time  cannot  be  counted. 

22* 


514  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

They  invent  names  for  their  companions  and  gnests,  and 
also  for  their  animals.  Some  of  these  titles  are  very- 
comical.  For  instance,  an  eminent  English  traveller,  who 
visited  Moal),  and  paid  considerable  attention  to  natural 
history,  is  not  known  in  that  region  liy  his  real  name,  hut 
is  called  "Abu  Baidat."  This  is  derived  from  his  habit 
of  collecting  birds  and  eggs,  and  means  ''  The  Father 
of  Eggs."  1  have  no  doubt  that  for  myself  and  com- 
panions likewise  they  have  significant  names,  but  they 
were  too  polite  to  mention  them  in  our  presence. 

They  also  give  fanciful  names  to  their  children,  espe- 
cially to  the  girls,  and  this  is  true  of  the  natives  of  Syria, 
as  weU  as  of  the  wild  Arabs.  I  asked  Miss  Everett  and 
Miss  Jackson,  who  have  charge  of  the  Young  Ladies' 
Seminary  in  Beirat,  to  write  down  the  names  of  girLs 
whom  they  had  actually  known,  which  would  illustrate 
this  point.  They  did  so,  and  the  list  embraced  upwards 
of  fifty  names ;  among  them  were  such  as  these :  Miss 
Fascinating  Fly,  Miss  Sociable  Slider,  Miss  Safe  Chatterer, 
Miss  Victor  Camel  Driver,  Miss  Benevolent  Old  Shoe,  Miss 
Pink  Thick  Lip,  Miss  Enough,  Miss  Diamond  Molasses- 
Maker,  Miss  Blessed  Butter-Maker,  and  so  on  through  the 
catalogue. 

There  are  other  interesting  traits  in  the  character  of 
the  Bedawin  which  I  have  not  mentioned.  Their  minds 
are  active,  and  they  are  very  eager  to  listen  to  anything 
which  they  can  comprehend.  Show  them  a  pictui'c  of  a 
horse,  a  camel,  or  of  some  object  with  which  they  are 
familiar,  or  tell  them  a  story,  and  they  are  as  delighted  as 
children.  The  story-book  and  illustrated  newspaper  are 
supposed  to  be  great  educators  in  civilized  lands,  and 
when  we  find  a  wild  Arab  interested  in  the  same  things, 
the  fact  may  be  regarded  as  a  hint  of  the  way  by  which 
they  may  be  reached  by  Christianity  and  education.    If 


ASAB  LIFE  IX  THE  DESEBT.  515 

they  could  be  broiiglit  uucler  a  good  government,  of 
which  they  know  nothing  as  yet  from  the  Turks,  it  would 
be  comparatively  easy  for  Christian  teachers  to  go  among 
them  and  labor  with  reasonalde  prospects  of  success ;  since 
there  is  nothing  in  their  chai"acter  to  prevent  them,  under 
favorable  circumstances,  from  becoming  one  of  the  families 
of  civilized  nations,  Christian  in  worship  and  faith. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

Conclusion. 

Era  of  relic-hunting  past.  Scientific  exploration.  Commendable 
results.  Obstacles  to  survey  work  in  the  desert.  Small 
parties  the  safest.  Arehseological  interest.  Biu'ied  cities. 
Mission  of  the  pick  and  spade.  Bone  caves.  Cyclopean  work. 
Flint  implements.  Assyrian  sculptures.  Inscriptions.  Cover  a 
great  variety  of  topics.  Ancient  weights.  Lead  sarcophagi.  Altar. 
Bearded  serpent.  Bronze  idol.  Stone  ball.  Balistse,  or  stone- 
throwing  machines.  Very  destructive.  Josephus  illustrated.  Iden- 
tifications of  Biblical  sites.     Trying  and  severe  work.     Cost  in  life. 

IT  is  astonishing  that  the  Christian  world  should  have 
been  centuries  in  arriving  at  the  conviction  that  the 
Holy  Land  was  a  region  to  be  explored  and  understood  just 
as  other  countries.  People  have  regarded  it  with  feehngs 
of  reverence,  or  as  a  stimulus  to  devotion,  rather  than 
as  the  fertile  source  of  important  material  facts,  which 
woidd  illustrate  and  confirm  the  word  of  God.  A  di^dne 
revelation  implies  history,  and  history  implies  locality; 
hence  it  would  seem  that  the  last  ought  to  be  earefidly 
studied  if  the  Old  and  New  Testaments,  which  originated 
iu  Palestine,  are  to  be  thoroughly  understood. 

At  last  it  can  be  said  with  truth  that  the  age  of  relic- 
hunting  has  ceased,  and  the  era  of  exploration  has  fairly 


CONCLUSION.  517 

begun.  The  Englisli  and  American  societies  have  ah-eady 
acliieved  commendable  results.  Unexpected  obstacles  have 
arisen,  and  the  work  has  gone  forward  less  rapidly  than  was 
anticipated.  The  survey  of  Western  Palestine  is  completed, 
after  six  years  of  patient  labor  by  the  officers  of  the 
English  Exploration  Fund.  This  period  does  not  include, 
however,  the  previous  expedition,  mider  Major  Wilson,  or 
the  time  spent  by  Captain  Warren  in  making  the  excava- 
tions at  Jerusalem. 

The  country  east  of  the  Jordan,  which  the  American 
Exploration  Society  proposed  to  survey,  is  unlike,  in  many 
respects,  that  on  the  west  of  the  river,  and  it  is  prob- 
able that  some  sections  of  it  can  never  be  triangulated 
without  exposing  those  actually  engaged  in  the  work  to 
very  great  risk.  On  the  other  hand,  in  most  sections,  at  a 
time  when  the  tribes  were  quiet,  the  work  of  a  sm-vey 
might  proceed  without  interruption.  Great  prudence, 
however,  would  need  to  be  exercised  on  the  part  of  those 
engaged  in  it,  and  my  experience  convinces  me  that  only 
small  parties  can  operate  there  with  any  safety.  But,  even 
if  the  whole  country  were  accurately  surveyed,  and  every 
place  or  object  on  its  surface  were  indicated  on  a  map,  the 
work  of  exploration  would  be  but  begun.  Unlike  Central 
Africa,  there  is  in  Palestine  an  old  world  beneath  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  and  it  will  be  many  decades  before 
the  mission  there  of  the  pick  and  spade  will  l)e  fuUy 
accomplished.  Important  and  wealthy  cities  existed  in 
Bashan  fifteen  and  twenty  centuries  before  the  birth  of 
Christ,  and  their  foundations  are  yet  to  be  laid  bare,  and 
their  buried  treasures  and  relics  brought  to  light.  But 
the  field  of  surface  archaeology  itself  has  not  yet  been 
thoroughly  gleaned ;  enough  has  been  found,  however,  to 
awaken  the  profoundest  interest  in  the  subject  of  the 
antiquities  of  Bashan  and  Moab.      I  have  myself  visited 


518  EAST  OF  THE  JOED  AN. 

nearly  threescore  ruined  clmrehes,  and  examined  and 
measured  eleven  of  the  thirteen  theatres  which  exist  in 
the  country  east  of  the  Jordan.  This  region  possesses 
dolmens,  flint  implements,  and  bone  caves  which  take 
us  back  into  the  remotest  antiquity.  We  find  here 
round  towers  and  other  cyclopean  work  which  have 
existed  since  the  days  of  "  the  giants."  Its  artificial 
mounds,  its  pottery  and  glass,  belong  to  the  earlier  civili- 
zations. Its  Assyiian  sculptures  may  date  anywhere 
between  the  seventh  and  the  fifteenth  centuries  before  the 
Christian  era.  Its  inscriptions,  of  which  between  twenty- 
five  hundred  and  three  thousand  have  been  brought  to 
light,  exist  in  seven  different  languages, — the  Hebrew, 
Moabite  (although  the  differences  between  it  and  the 
Hebrew  are  hardly  sufficient  to  justify  its  being  classed  as 
a  separate  language),  Palmyrene,  Nabathean,  Greek,  Latin, 
and  Cufic, — or,  more  properly,  ten,  for  the  Hst  should  be 
completed  by  the  addition  of  Arabic,  Phoenician,  and  the 
so-caUed  "  Hittite." 

The  Nabathean  inscriptions  have,  for  the  most  part,  been 
neglected  as  unimportant ;  yet  the  people  using  this  Aramaic 
dialect  once  formed  a  powerful  kingdom.  Seven  centuries 
before  Christ,  they  were  able  to  make  a  formidable  resist- 
ance to  the  disciplined  armies  from  Assyria,  although  the 
first  introduction  of  the  Greeks  to  this  nation  was  appar- 
ently when  Antigonus,  the  successor  of  Alexander,  was 
sent  against  them,  which  resulted  in  his  army  being  routed 
and  slaughtered.  Something  of  their  history  has  been 
learned  from  the  monuments,  but  this  important  source  of 
information  with  regard  to  them  has  not  yet  been  ex- 
hausted, and  no  one  is  able  to  tell  what  new  facts  are 
yet  to  be  developed  by  research. 

But  of  the  more  ancient  ones,  the  Greek  and  Latin 
inscriptions  are  the  most  numerous,  and  they  touch  upon 


No.  4. 

Inscribed    Stones    from    Ancient   Tombs    at    Sidon.      Possibly    Used    as    Weight:. 
(Natural    Size.) 


CONCLUSION.  521 

a  great  variety  of  topics  connected  with  the  religion,  lan- 
guage, occupations,  business  affairs,  and  social  and  private 
life  of  the  people  who  once  made  these  East-Jordan  deserts 
a  land  of  enterprise  and  prosperity.  A  large  number  of 
these  ruined  towns  have  never  yet  been  visited,  and  it  is 
liigldy  probable  that  important  accessions  will  yet  be  made 
to  the  collection  of  inscriptions  already  in  the  hands  of 
scholars. 

Both  Eastern  and  Western  Palestine  are  rich  fields  for 
the  archeeologist,  and  from  the  ancient  tombs  at  Sidon  I 
have  obtained  some  very  beautiful  iridescent  glass.  Two 
of  the  specimens  appear  to  be  unique,  at  least  there  is 
nothing  like  them  in  the  collection  at  Munich,  in  that  of  the 
British  Museum,  or  in  the  Cesnola  collection  in  New  York. 

I  have  also  four  small  objects  of  stone  which  were  found 
near  these  tombs,  or  in  them,  and  which  may  possibly  have 
been  used  as  weights.  The 
stones  are  flint,  and  the  marks 
upon  them  are  one-eighth  of 
an  inch  in  depth.  Their  weight 
is  respectively  43.329,  44.515, 
50.559,  and  76.081  grams. 

By  referring  to  Lev.  xix.,  36, 
and  Dent,  xxv.,  13,  it  will  be 
seen  that,  among  the  Hebrews, 
weights  were  of  stone.  The 
later    Jews    established    the  "^"^^-^^^ — -"' 

regulation  that  weights  should 

be  made  of  such  material  as  could  not  be  injm'ed  by  rust 
or  by  absorption,  and  hence  stone  or  glass  was  generally 
employed  for  that  purpose.  (See  Babylonian  Talmud, 
Baba  Bathra  89&.) 

Terra-cotta  coffins  are  frequently  dug  up,  but  the  older 
and  more   costly  ones  are  of  stone.     Occasionally,  about 


522 


EAST   OF  THE  JORDAN. 


Beirut,  a  sarcophagus  of  lead  is  found,  and  I  present  an 
illustration  of  a  fragment  of  one  which  is  in  my  posses- 
sion. When  a  sarcophagus,  or  any  other  object  made 
of  lead,  is  found  by  the  natives,  it  is  generally  reduced 
at  once  to  bullets,  of  which  they  have  a  keener  appreciation 
than  of  relics,  however  ancient  or  valuable. 


Fragment    of    Ancient     Lead    Sarcophagus. 

Nearly  half  a  century  ago  there  was  found  near  Beiriit 
an  ancient  bronze  idol.  It  came  into  the  possession  of 
Rev.  Isaac  Bird,  father  of  Rev.  William  Bird,  of  'Abeih,  by 
whom  I  have  been  allowed  to  make  drawings  of  it  and  also 
a  cast.  Two  views  are  given.  It  is  a  Phoenician  idol,  and  its 
height  is  five  and  one-fourth  inches.     A  number  of  bronze 


CONCLUSION. 


523 


Proni   View   of    Phoenician    idol,    from 
Beirut.      Heiglrt,    5    1-4    inches. 


Side    View    of  the    Same. 


524  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

idols  of  tlie  same  age  have  been  shown  me  by  M.  Peritie, 
of  Beirut,  who  has  in  his  valuable  private  collection  many 
interesting  specimens  of  antique  art. 

I  was  so  fortunate  as  to  obtain  an  altar,  which  has  on  its 
four  sides  some  interesting  symbols.  It  is  fifteen  and  one- 
half  inches  high,  and  nine  and  one-half  inches  broad  at  the 
top  and  base.  The  top,  which  is  concave,  for:ning  the 
basin,  was  overlaid  with  some  material,  probably  metal, 
that  was  fastened  to  the  outer  edge.  The  figures  are 
very  life-like,  and  the  altar  is  represented  exactly  in  its 
present  condition.  The  material  is  alabaster,  and  the 
monument  when  perfect  must  have  been  a  beautifid  one. 
This  altar  was  unearthed  at  Jebail,  the  ancient  Byblos. 
One  of  the  serpents  upon  it  had  a  beard ;  and  this  among 
the  Egyptians  was  a  symbol  of  divinity. 

But  a  relic  which  I  highly  prize  is  a  stone  ball  that  I 

found  among  the  debris  in  an 
underground  passage  of  the 
castle  at  Banias.  The  passage 
was  under  the  eastern  end,  or 
that  portion  which  was  properly 
the  citadel.  The  ball  is  not 
^{'(/Iw»'  ■  ^.fZ^SH^^-.  perfectly  spherical,  but  nearly 
!^*^'^''.w'*^S>^l^>£^^^       so,   and   is    represented    accu- 

o   .  ^.,     ^       „    .  rately  in  the  cut.     It  has  a  bat- 

stone   Projectile.     From    Banias.  '' 

tered  appearance,  which  would 
seem  to  indicate  that  it  has  actually  been  used  as  a  missUe. 
Its  diameter  is  seven  inches,  and  its  weight  is  thirteen 
pounds.  Siibsequently,  in  another  place,  I  found  two,  and 
each  was  fourteen  inches  in  diameter. 

I  shall  present  here  some  extracts  from  Josephus,  illus- 
trating the  use  and  power  of  these  balls  in  ancient  warfare. 
His  whole  account  is  interesting,  but  that  portion  is  par- 
ticularly so  where  he  describes  the   means  used  by  one 


Figures  on  an   Ancient  Altar  found  at  Jebail. 


CONCLUSION.  527 

party  for  signalling  tlieir  approacli,  and  the  connter  device 
of  the  other  party  to  render  this  more  dif&cult : 

"  Simon  was  not  inactive.  He  disposed  his  engines  upon 
the  ramparts,  those  that  had  formerly  been  taken  from 
Cestius,  as  well  as  those  that  had  fallen  into  tlieir  hands 
when  they  mastered  the  garrison  of  the  Antonia.  The 
possession  of  these,  however,  was  of  no  avail  to  the  gener- 
ality, owing  to  their  unskilf ulness ;  a  few  only  who  had 
been  instructed  by  the  deserters  could  work  them,  though 
inefficiently.  But  they  assailed  from  the  walls  with  stones 
and  arrows  those  who  were  raising  the  mounds ;  and, 
rushing  out  in  bodies,  engaged  them  in  close  combat. 
The  workmen  were  protected  from  the  darts  by  hurdles 
stretched  over  palisades,  while  the  engines  defended  them 
against  the  sallies  of  the  besieged.  Admirable  as  were  the 
engines  constructed  by  all  the  legions,  those  of  the  tenth 
were  of  peculiar  excellence.  Their  scorpions  were  of 
greater  power,  and  their  stone-projectors  larger ;  and  with 
these  they  not  only  kept  in  check  the  sallying  parties,  but 
those  also  on  the  ramparts.  The  stones  that  were  thrown 
were  of  the  weight  of  a  talent,  and  had  a  range  of  two 
furlongs  and  more.  The  shock,  not  only  to  such  as  first 
met  it,  but  even  to  those  beyond  them  for  a  considerable 
distance,  was  irresistible.  The  Jews,  however,  at  the  first 
could  guard  against  the  stone ;  for  its  approach  was  inti- 
mated, not  only  to  the  ear  by  its  whiz,  but  also,  being 
white,  to  the  eye  by  its  brightness.  Accordingly  they  had 
watchmen  posted  on  the  towers,  who  gave  warning  when 
the  engine  was  discharged  and  the  stone  projected,  calling 
out  in  their  native  language,  '  The  Son  is  coming ' ;  on 
which  those  towards  whom  it  was  directed  would  separate, 
and  lie  down  before  it  reached  them.  Thus  it  happened 
that,  omng  to  these  precautions,  the  stone  fell  harmless. 
It  then  occurred  to  the  Romans  to  blacken  it ;  when,  taking 


528  EAST  OF  THE  JOBDAN. 

a  more  successful  aim,  as  it  was  no  longer  equally  discerni 
ble  in  its  approach,  they  swept  down  many  at  a  single 
discharge  "  (''  Wars,"  v.,  6,  3). 

This  is  from  the  account  of  the  siege  of  Jerusalem ;  but . 
in  a  previous  chapter,  when  giving  the  details  of  the  terrible 
struggle  at  Jotapata  in  Galilee,  he  refers  several  times  to 
these  missiles  of  death,  and  to  the  great  engines  with  which 
they  were  thrown  : 

"  Vespasian  having  disposed  in  a  semicircle  the  pro- 
jectile engines — of  which  there  were  in  all  one  hundred 
and  sixty — gave  orders  to  aim  at  the  men  stationed  on  the 
wall.  At  the  same  time  the  catapults  vomited  forth  a 
whizzing  storm  of  lances,  and  rocks  of  a  talent  weight 
were  thrown  by  the  stone-projectors,  with  fine  and  dense 
showers  of  ari'ows,  which  not  only  rendered  the  ramparts 
inaccessible  to  the  besieged,  but  as  much  of  the  interior 
also  as  came  within  theii'  range ;  for  the  host  of  Arabian 
archers,  with  all  the  javelin-throwers  and  sliugers,  simul- 
taneously with  the  machines,  poured  in  their  volleys" 
("  Wars,"  iii.,  7,  9). 

The  siege  went  on  with  great  fury,  and  was  even  kept 
up  during  the  night.  ''  But  though  numbers  were  beaten 
down,  one  on  another,  by  the  catapults  and  stone-pro- 
jectors, Josephus  and  his  men  still  maintained  their  post 
upon  the  battlements,  and  with  fire,  and  sword,  and  stones, 
assailed  those  who,  sheltered  by  the  hurdles,  worked  the 
ram.  [This  he  has  before  described  as  "an  immense 
beam,  resembling  the  mast  of  a  ship.  It  is  armed  at  the 
extremity  with  a  dense  mass  of  iron,  forged  in  figure  of  a 
ram's  head,  whence  it  derives  its  name,"  iii.,  7,  19,  23.] 
But  they  effected  little  or  nothing,  and  fell  without  inter- 
mission, as  they  stood  in  full  view  of  those  whom  they 
could  not  themselves  see.  For,  conspicuous  in  the  glare 
of  their  own  fire,  they  formed  as  certain  a  mark  to  the 


CONCLUSION.  '  529 

enemy  as  in  the  daytime;  and  as  the  machines  were  not 
discernible  in  the  distance,  it  was  difficult  to  avoid  their 
discharges.  By  the  force  of  the  scorpions  and  catapults, 
channels  were  opened  tlirough  the  dense  files ;  while  the 
stones,  driven  whizzing  from  the  machine,  carried  away 
the  battlements,  and  broke  off  the  corners  of  the  towers. 
And  there  was  no  body  of  troops  so  firm  as  not  to  be  over- 
thrown to  the  last  rank  by  the  violence  and  magnitude  of 
the  stones." 

Of  the  power  of  the  engine  some  idea  may  be  formed 
by  the  fact  that  '^  one  of  those  who  stood  near  Josephus 
upon  the  ramparts,  being  struck  by  a  stone  from  it,  his 
head  was  torn  off  and  his  skull  flung  to  the  distance  of 
three  furlongs. 

"  Terrific,  indeed,  was  the  clatter  of  the  machines  and  the 
whiz  of  the  missiles.  *  *  *  The  whole  scene  of  conflict 
in  front  of  the  city  flowed  with  blood ;  and  the  wall  became 
accessible  over  heaps  of  slain.  The  mountains  echoing 
around  made  the  clamor  more  fearful;  and  nothing,  on 
that  night  was  wanting  to  strike  the  eye  or  the  ear  with 
terror  "  ("  Wars,"  iii.,  7,  23). 

The  name  of  these  stone-projectors  is  peiroholos.,  ne-po- 
(3oXoc,  or  lifJioholos,  XidoPoXo^j  and  in  Latin  halista.  They 
formed  the  heavy  artillery  of  ancient  warfare. 

The  stones  are  stated  to  have  weighed  a  talent  each,  and 
to  have  had  "  a  range  of  two  furlongs  and  more."  A 
man's  skull  was  hurled,  as  we  have  seen,  "a  distance  of 
three  furlongs."  As  the  ball  which  I  have  weighs  thirteen 
pounds,  one  fourteen  inches  in  diameter  should  weigh  not 
far  from  one  hundred  and  four  pounds.  If  we  suppose  the 
Jewish  talent  to  have  weighed  ninety-three  pounds,  the 
statement  of  Josephus,  who,  no  doubt,  is  speaking  in  a 
general  way,  would  be  confirmed.  When  warfare  was 
largely  a  hand-to-hand  combat,  engines  by  which  large 
23 


530  EAST  OF  THE  JOEDAN. 

stones  eoulcl  be  thrown  one-fourth  or  three-eighths  of  a 
mile  must  have  been  very  formidable  weapons. 

The  phrase,  "  The  Son  is  coming,"  which  Josephus  says 
the  watchmen  used  to  announce  the  approach  of  one  of 
these  missiles,  is  worthy  of  notice.  Their  "native  language" 
would  be  the  Aramaic,  and  the  words  employed  Vra  atlia. 
Doubtless  the  a  of  the  first  word  was  elided,  so  that  the 
alarm  cry  would  be  "  VratliaJ'' 

One  of  the  most  important  features  of  this  work  of 
exploration  is  the  identification  of  Biblical  sites.  Lieu- 
tenant Conder  reports  that  of  the  six  hundred  and  twenty- 
two  Bible  names  in  Western  Palestine,  four  hundred  and 
thirty-four  are  now  identified  with  reasonable  certainty, 
and  of  the  latter  number  one  hundred  and  seventy-two 
are  discoveries  of  the  English  survey  party.  It  should  be 
stated  that  Lieutenant  Conder  was  connected  with  the  sur- 
vey for  more  than  six  years,  a  large  portion  of  which  period 
he  spent  in  the  field,  going  over  the  groiuid  square  mile 
by  square  mile,  and  often  acre  by  acre,  and  hence  his 
opinion  on  all  topographical  and  archaeological  questions 
merits  unusual  consideration. 

But  in  Eastern  Palestine  the  Bible  names,  according  to 
my  own  estimate,  number  two  hundred  and  forty,  besides 
fourteen  mentioned  in  the  Maccabees.  Probably  nearly 
one  hundred  of  these  have  been  identified. 

Notwithstanding  the  time  and  money  that  have  alreadj' 
been  spent  in  this  work,  it  seems  to  me  that  the  Christian 
people  of  America  do  not  fully  appreciate  its  importance ; 
and  I  am  certain  that  they  do  not  appreciate  the  difficul- 
ties to  be  encountered  in  canying  it  on,  or  the  attendant 
hardships  that  must  lie  bofne.  The  climate  is  tr^^ing  and 
dangerous,  although,  during  the  two   years  that  I  spent 


CONCLUSION.  531 

in  the  field,  I  lost  but  five  or  six  days  by  sickness. 
The  work  itself  is  hard  and  exhausting,  and  the  number 
of  lives  that,  from  fli'st  to  last,  have  been  sacrificed  in  the 
exploration  of  Palestine  is  by  no  means  small.  The 
names  of  these,  so  far  as  I  know  them,  may  be  appro- 
priately mentioned. 

Lieutenant  Dale,  who  was  really  the  scientific  element  in 
the  expedition  sent  out  under  Lieutenant  Lynch  to  the 
Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea,  was  taken  with  malarial  fever 
and  died,  and  is  buried  at  B'hamdun,  a  village  in  the  Leb- 
anon Mountains,  between  Beirut  and  Damascus.  In  1835, 
the  enthusiastic  Costigan  attempted  to  navigate  the  Jordan 
and  the  Dead  Sea,  but  after  great  suffering  he  reached 
Jericho,  whence  he  was  carried  to  Jerusalem  to  die.  In 
1847,  Lieutenant  Molyneaux  made  an  attempt  similar  to 
that  of  Costigan,  and  in  like  manner  fell  a  victim  to  the 
climate — the  thii-d  martjT  to  scientific  exploration  in  this 
strange  and  inhospitable  valley.  In  1835,  Otto  Friedrich 
von  Richter,  an  explorer  of  considerable  note,  died  in 
Smyi'na  from  disease  contracted  while  in  Syi'ia  and  Pales- 
tine. Dr.  J.  R.  Roth,  sent  out  to  this  region,  in  1857,  by  the 
King  of  Bavaria,  to  make  scientific  explorations,  was  taken 
with  fever  in  the  marshes  near  Lake  Merom,  the  modern 
Huleh,  which  ended  his  valuable  career. 

The  English  exploration  party  have  suffered  in  the  loss 
of  Charles  Frederick  Tyrwhitt  Drake,  a  most  thorough 
arehsBologist,  who  died  in  1874,  and  of  Corporal  James 
Duncan,  of  the  English  Royal  Engineers,  who  died  in 
1868.  Both  these  men  are  buried  in  Jerusalem.  Nor  is 
it  out  of  place  to  refer  to  Burckhardt  and  Seetzen,  the 
pioneers  of  explorations  in  Eastern  Palestine,  who,  although 
they  did  not  die  in  Syria,  fell  victims  to  the  hardships  and 
danger  to  which  explorers  in  the  East  are  constantly 
exposed. 


532  EAST  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

In  1837,  Beke  was  obliged  to  relinquish  his  attempt  to 
explore  the  Dead  Sea,  because  he  suffered  so  severely  from 
the  climate ;  and  Captain  Stewart,  who  followed  Captain 
Warren  in  charge  of  the  English  survey,  was  obliged  to 
return  to  England  shattered  in  health. 

In  the  fall  of  1873,  the  English  party  was  broken  up  and 
di"iven  out  of  the  Jordan  valley  for  the  winter,  because  of 
the  terrible  fever  by  which  every  member  was  attacked. 
They  suffered  a  great  deal  from  Syrian  fever,  hay  fever, 
dysentery,  sunstroke,  ophthalmia,  and  general  exhaustion. 
The  fevers  were  frequently  followed  by  severe  and  painful 
ulcers,  and  by  these  both  officers  and  men  were  some- 
times quite  disabled. 

I  ought  not  to  omit  reference  to  George  Smith,  who  fell 
a  victim  to  the  same  climate  and  hardships  to  which  all 
explorers  in  Palestine  are  exposed — although  the  actual 
scene  of  his  labors  and  death  lay  outside  of  the  limits  of 
the  Holy  Land.  This  man  was  my  personal  friend,  and  I 
was  watching  his  career  with  the  deepest  interest ;  hence, 
perhaps,  the  reader  can  imagine  my  surprise  and  sorrow 
when,  on  coming  back  to  Beirut  from  a  tedious  campaign 
in  the  Jordan  valley  and  the  deserts  beyond,  I  learned 
that  this  brave  and  talented  explorer  had  died  at  Aleppo. 

But  Avhere  the  exposure  and  risk  are  so  great,  unusual 
care  is  required  on  the  part  of  the  explorer ;  and  if  one  is 
not  predisposed  to  fevers,  the  danger  to  health  while  in 
Syria  is  of  course  somewhat  lessened. 

It  is  admitted  by  all  that  the  work  of  exploring  the  land 
where  the  Bible  had  its  origin  is  one  of  the  most  important 
that  has  been  undertaken  during  the  present  century,  and 
it  affords  me  special  satisfaction  that  I  have  had  even  a 
slight  share  in  carrying  it  on. 


AUTHORITIES   CONSULTED. 

Abulfeda.     Tabula  Syria?.     Kohler's  edition.     Leiijzig,  1786.     This 

contains  also  extracts  from  Ibn  ul  Wardi. 
Benjamin  of  Tudela.     Aslier's  edition.     2  vols.     London  and  Berlin, 

1840. 
BoETTGER,  G.     Topographisch-Histoi-isches  Lexicon  zii  den  Schriften 

des  Fl.  Josephus.  8vo.  Leipzig,  1879. 
Buckingham,  J.  S.  Travels.  London,  1825. 
BxJRCKHARDT.     Travels  in  Syria  and  the  Holy  Land.     London,  1822. 

Notes  on  the  Bedouins  and  Wahabys.  2  vols.  8vo.  Lon- 
don, 1831. 

Burton  and  Drake.    Unexplored  Syria.    2  vols.    8vo.    London,  1872. 
DoERGENS,  E.      Consul  Wetzstein's   und  E.    Doergens'  Eeise  in  das 

ost-Jordan-Land.      Zeitschrift  fiir  Allgemeine   Erdkunde.      Neue 

Folge.     Vol.  X.     1860.     Pp.  402-420. 

Astronomisehe     Ortsbestimmungen      and      barometrische 

Hohen-Messungen    in     Syrien    und    Palaestina.       In    the    same 
journal.     Vol.  xi.     1861. 

D'Urban.  Eecueil  des  itin^raires  aneiens.  Itinerary  of  Antonine. 
Tabula  Peutingeriana.  Periplus  of  Scylax  of  Caryanda.  Periplus 
of  Arrian.  Also,  Hieroeles's  ' '  Synecdemus  "  and  some  smaller 
geographical  works.     4to.     Paris,  1845. 

Edrisi.  Eosenmiiller's  edition.  Leipzig,  1828.  This  contains  also 
extracts  from  Khalil  ben  Shahin. 

Freshfield,  D.  W.     Caucasus  and  Bashau.     8vo.     London,  1869. 

Graham,  C.  C.  In  Joxirnal  of  the  Eoyal  Geographical  Society.  Lon- 
don, 1858. 

Henderson,  Wm.  Dictionary  and  Concordance  of  Scripture  Names  of 
Persons  and  Places.     Edinburgh,  1869. 

Irby  and  Mangles.     Travels,  etc.     London,  1861. 

Josephus.     Dindorf's  edition.     Didot.     Paris,  1845-1847. 


534  AUTHORITIES  CONSULTED. 

Journal    of    Sacred    Literature,    and    many    articles    scattered 

throughout  various  other  periodicals. 
Kremer.     Mittel-syrien  und  Damascus.     Vienna,  1853. 
Laborde,  Leon  de.      Commeutaire   geographique  sur  I'Exode  et  les 

Nombres.     Paris  et  Leipzig,  1841. 

Voyage  en  Orient,  Asie  Mineure  et  Syrie.     180  planches. 

Didot.     Paris. 

Lartet.     See  Luynes,  Ihic  de. 

LiGHTFOOT,  Dr.  John.  Works.  Pitman's  edition.  13  vols.  London, 
1822-1825. 

Luynes,  Due  de.  Voyage  d'exploration  a  la  Mer  Morte,  a  Petra,  et 
sur  la  rive  gauche  du  Jourdain.  The  preface  is  dated  1874.  Of 
the  four  volumes  of  this  work,  one  is  composed  of  maps  and  plates, 
and  one  is  devoted  to  the  geology  of  the  Dead  Sea,  by  Lartet,  a 
member  of  the  expedition.     The  second  volume  is  by  Vignes. 

Lynch,  W.  F.  Narrative  of  the  Exxjedition  to  the  Dead  Sea.  Phila- 
delphia, 1849. 

Macgregor,  J.  The  Eob  Roy  on  the  Jordan.  5th  edition.  London, 
1876. 

Mo ABiTE  Stone.     Ginsburg's  edition.  •  London,  1871. 

Nex'Bauer,  a.    La  geographie  du  Talmud.     Paris,  1868. 

NoELDEKE,  Th.  Die  Romischen  Pro^dnzen  Palaestina  Salutaris  und 
Ai-abia.    In  Hiibner's  Je/'wcs.    Vol.  x.     1876.     Pp.  163-170. 

Zm"   Topographie    und    Geschiehte    des    Damascenisehen 

Gebietes  und  der  Haiu'angegend.  Zeitschrift  der  Deutschen  Morg. 
Gesellschaft.     1875.    Pp.  419-444. 

NoRTHEY,  Rev.  A.  E.  Expedition  to  the  East  of  the  Jordan.  Pales- 
tine Exploration  Fimd  Statement.     1872. 

Onomasticon.  Eusebius  and  Jerome.  Parthey's  edition.  Berlin, 
1862. 

Palmer,  E.  H.     The  Desert  of  the  Exodus.     8vo.     New  York,  1872. 

Pape,  W.  Worterbuch  der  Griechisehen  Eigennamen.  Benseler's 
edition.    Braunschweig,  1863-1870. 

Parchi,  Estori  ha.  Kaftor  waferach.  Edelmami's  edition.  1846- 
1852. 

Pliny.    Harduin's  edition.     Leipzig,  1778. 

PoLYBius.     Greek  and  Latin.     Gronovius  and  Emesti.     Leipzig,  1764. 

Porter,  J.  L.  The  Giant  Cities  of  Bashau.  12mo.  New  York, 
1867. 

Five  Years  in  Damascus.     2  vols.     12mo.     London,  1855. 

Ptolemy.     Nobbe's  edition.     Leipzig,  1845. 

Reland.     Palipstina,  1714. 

Renan,  E.  Sur  les  inscriptions  hebraiques  des  sjmagogues  de  Kefr- 
Bereim  en  Galilee.     Svo.     Paris,  1867. 


AUTH0BITIE8  CONSULTED.  535 

Rey,  E.  Guillaume.  Voyage  dans  le  Haouran  et  aux  bords  de  la  Mer 
Morte,  execute  pendant  les  aimees  1857-1858.  Maps  and 
Plates.     Paris,  1861. 

RiCHTER,  Otto  Friedrich  von.  Wallfahrten  im  Morgenlande.  Ber- 
'  Un,  1822. 

RiTTER,  EIarl.     Erdkimde. 

Robinson,  Edward.  Physical  Geography  of  the  Holy  Land.  Boston, 
1805. 

Robinson,  George.  Travels  in  Palestine  and  Syria.  2  vols.  Lon- 
don, 1843. 

Saulcy,  P.  DE.  Dictionnaire  topographique  de  la  Ten'e  Sainte. 
Paris,  1877. 

Numismatique  des  rois  nabath^ens  de  Petra — lettre  a  M. 

Chabouillet,  conservateur  du  Cabinet   des   Medailles.     Svo,   avec 
2  pi.     1874. 

Journey  Round  the   Dead   Sea.      2   vols.     Svo.      London, 

1853.     French  edition,  1852. 

Schwarz,  Joseph.     Das  heilige  Land.     Frankfurt  am  Main,  1852. 

Seetzen.     Reisen.     Kruse's  edition.     4  vols.     Berlin,  1854-1859. 

Smith,  Eli.  Lists  of  Arabic  Names  of  Places  in  Palestine  and  the 
Adjacent  Regions.  Printed  in  the  appendix  to  the  third  volume 
of  the  earlier  editions  of  Robinson's  "  Biblical  Researches." 

Smith's  Bible  Dictionary.     American  edition.     4  vols. 

Stephanus  Byzantinus.     Meineke's  edition.     Berlin,  1849. 

Strabo.     Meineke's  edition.     Leipzig,  1806. 

Talmud,  Babylonian.  Edition  printed  in  Lemberg.  23  vols. 
1868. 

Jerusalem.     Edition  printed  at  Krotoschin.     1806. 

Bomberg,  Venice.     No  date.      [The  edition  from  this,  of 

1609,  was  printed  at  Cracow.] 

Tristram,  H.  B.    Land  of  Moab.    New  York,  1873. 

Bible  Places,  or  Topography  of  the  Holy  Land.  New  edi- 
tion.   London,  1875. 

The   Land  of  Israel :  A  Journal  of   Travels  in  Palestine. 

Third  edition.     London,  1876. 

ViGNES.     See  Luynes,  Due  de. 

Vogue,  Count  de.  The  Hauran,  pp.  319-340,  in- '' Recovery  of 
Jerusalem."    New  York,  1871. 

Syrie  Centrale.     Inscriptions  semitiques.     Paris,  1868. 

Inscriptions  semitiques  de  la  Syrie  [called  the  second  part 

of  the  last  work].     Paris,  1877. 

Architecture  civile  et  religieuse  de  la  Syrie  centrale.    Paris, 

1865-1867.     Contains  a  preface  of  twelve  pages,  comprising  all 
the  text  of  the  volume,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  plates. 


536  AUTHOBITIES   CONSULTED. 

Waddington,   W.  H.      Inscriptions  grecques  et  latines  de  la  Syrie. 

Paris,  1870. 
Warren,     Captain    Charles.      Underground    Jerusalem.      London, 

1876. 

Expedition  to  the  East  of  the  Jordan.    Palestine  Exploration 

Fund  Statement.     1869-1870. 

Wetzstein,  J.  G.    Eeisebericht  iiber  Hauran  und  die  Trachonen.    Ber- 
lin, 1860. 

Ausgewahlte    Gr.    imd    Lat.      Inschriften    gesammelt    auf 

Eeisen  in   den  Trachonen  und  um  das  Haurangebirge.      Berlin, 
1864. 

• The   Monastery  of  Job   in   Hauran,  and  the    Tradition  of 

Job.     Appendix  to  DeUtzsch's  Commentary  on  Job.     Vol.  2.     Pp. 

395-447.     Clark's  Foreign  Theological  Library. 
William  of  Tyre.     Texte  fran§ais  du  Xllleme  siecle,  revu  et  annote 

parM.  Paulin.     2  vols.     4to.     Paris,  1879. 
WiLTSCH,  J.  E.  T.    Geography  and  Statistics  of  the  Church.   Translated 

by  John  Leitch.     2  vols.     London,  1868. 
WoLCOTT,    Eev.    Dr.    Samuel.      The  Site   of    Sodom.      Bibliotheca 

Sacra,  Jan.,  1868.    Pp.  112-151. 
Wright,  Eev.  W.,  formerly  a  naissionary  in  Damascus.     Nine  papers 

in  the  Leisure  Hour  (London)  for   1874,   on  the   "Land  of  the 

Giant  Cities." 
ZuNZ,     Geography  of  Palestine  from  Jewish  Sources.    Li  vol.  2   of 

Asher's  Benjamin  of  Tudela.    Pp.  393-448. 


IISTDEX. 


Abarim,  mountains,  242  et  seq. 
Abbad,  the  Beni,  a  surprise  from, 
421,  422. 
"       trouble  among,  378,  379, 
'Abeih,  camp  at,  8, 
Abil,  artificial  mound,  309,  315. 
Abil,  Kefr,  situation  of,  440. 
Adam,  some  claim  to  be  represent- 
ed by  Damieh,  199. 
''Advertiser,"  Boston  Daily,  239, 

418. 
Advisory  Committee  of  the  Ameri- 
can Palestine  Exploration  So- 
ciety, report  to,  311,  312. 
'Ain  Balata,  and  cyclopean  blocks, 
316. 
"    Jenneh,  356;  groves  and  foun- 
tains of,  291. 
"     el  Jirm,  396. 
"    Mallaha,  camping  ground  at, 

316. 
"    Mudawareh,  300. 
"     Tabigha,  458. 
'Ajlun,  356. 

"      ancient  remains  at,  367. 
"      Wady,  fertility  of,  373,  374. 
Alcott,  Eev.  Wm.  P.,  413. 
Alexandi'ia,  2,  4. 

'Ali,  Haj,  a  hunter,  interesting  his- 
tory of,  132,  133. 
"         his  story-telUng,  319. 
Alkali  shrub  in  the  desert,  81. 
'Allan,  Wady,  325. 
AUath,  temple  of  the  goddess,  at 

Salchad,  51. 
Altar,  ancient,  at  Kunawat,  41,  42. 
"      ancient,  with  curious  sym- 
bols, 524. 
Amathus,  site  of,  389. 
American  residents  in  Syria,  kind- 
ness of,  9. 
Amman,   fertility   of    the    region 
about,  404. 
*'        Old    Testament    history 
connected   with,    203, 
264. 
"        situation  of,  399  et  sc:^. 
''        buildings,  400. 

23* 


Animals,  for  carrying  burdens,  96. 
"        wild,  a  secure  retreat  for, 
along  the  Jordan,  204. 
"        in  Syria,  abused,  218. 
Antiochus  the  Oreat,  siege  of  Am- 
man by,  266. 
Antiquities,  at  El  Husn,  354. 
"  at  Irbid,  295. 

"  at  Kunawat,  a  head, 

39,  41. 
"  representation  of  Baal 

and  Astarte,  40. 
"  bidloek's     head    and 

altar,  41,  42. 
"  at  Es  Salt,  89. 

Antiquity  of  some  of  the  Haui-an 

ruins,  74,  75. 
Aphek,identifledwithFik,163eise(/. 
Aqueduct,  at  Burak,  23. 
"  near  Irbid,  296. 

"  on  the   Shittim    plain, 

232. 
"  at  Suweideh,  48. 

Arab,  a  wounded,  efforts  to  assist, 
408. 
"      children,  and  musical  toys, 

241. 
"      superstition    about    curing 

diseased  sheep,  186. 
"      tombstones,  singular  taste, 
98. 
Arabia,  Bozrah  the  capital  of,  53. 
Arabs,  the  Balawni,  427. 

the  Mashalkha,  374. 
the  Sukhur,  208. 
tribes  of,  moving,  411. 
caravan  of,  at  Amman,  402. 
trouble  among  the,  370. 
tribes  of,  gathering  for  war, 

406. 
making  contracts  with,  197. 
their  method  of  doing  busi- 
ness,'492. 
promises  of,  420. 
care  little  for  the  dead,  185. 
hosi^itality  of  the,  163. 
kind  treatment  from  the, 
195. 


338 


INDEX. 


Arabs,  cany  a  sick  friend  across 
the  Jordan,  104. 
"      alone  with,  2:^8. 
"      their     entertainments      in 

camp,  228. 
"       interest  in  pictures  of  ani- 
mals, 228. 
'Arak  el  Emir,  camp  at,  palace  of 
Hyrcanus,    fine    ruins,    Jose- 
phus's  description  of,  lOG-110. 
Aram  Naharaim,  or  Syria  of  the 
rivers,  meaning  of  the  term, 
267. 
Archasologist,  duties  of,  97,  98. 

"  Palestine  a  rich  field 

for  an,  521. 

Architects  of  Syria,  skill  of,  06,  72. 

Architecture   and  ornamentation, 

beautiful  at  Si'a,  44. 

"  of    the    Hauran,    00 

et  seq. 

Argob,  corresponds  to  the  modern 

Lejah,  11. 
'Ary,  ruined  cities  and  towns  seen 

from,  49. 
'Ashtara,  Tell,  described,  329,  330. 
Ashteroth  Karnaim,   site  of,  328- 

330. 
Ashworth,  Mr.  Charles,  313,  375. 
Assyrian  records,  reference  in,  to 
the  Hauran,  75. 
"         sculpture  near  Tyre,  118, 

119. 
"         sculptures,  518, 
Astarte  and  Baal,  representations 

of,  at  Kunawat,  40,  41. 
"  Athenteum,"    the  London,   239, 

413. 
Atiareh,  near  Mahneh,  356,  357. 
'Atil  described,  inscriptions,  tem- 
ples, antique  head  with  rays, 
46-48. 
Authors,    ancient,    from    Gerash, 

284. 
'Ayun  Musa,  242. 
Azrak,  Gusr,  and  Nahr,  398. 

Baal  and  Astarte,  representations 

of,  at  Kunawat,  40,  41. 
Bacchus,  worshipped  as  Dusares  in 

Syria,  50. 
Balaam,  history  of,   his   country, 

267-209. 
Baldwin    III.,    King,   invasion    of 

the  Hauran  by,  352. 
Basalt,  322,  452. 

"      and  limestone,  293. 


Basalt,  the  building  material  in  the 
Hauran,  58,  60. 
' '      about  the  Lake  of  Tiberias, 

128. 
"       formations    of,    in   certain 

sections,  128. 
"       on  the  Upper  Jordan,  303, 
304. 
Bath  at  Kunawat,  38. 
Batiha,  plain  of,  458. 

"  ''        reservoirs  on  the, 

129. 
Battle,  an  invitation  to  a,  485. 
Bedawin  in  the  Jordan  vallev,  172, 
174,  192,  194. 
"        mode  of  life,  :!10,  469. 
"        camp  fires,  469. 
"        tents  described,  409,  470. 
"        immbered   by  horsemen 

or  tents,  471. 
"        food  of,  478-482. 
"        far-sighted,  255,  250. 
"        moving,    strange     sight, 

471  ct  scq. 
"       indifference  to  noise,  473. 
"       hospitality  of,  488  et  seq. 
"       religion  among,  495  et  seq, 
"       methods  of  securing  their 

confidence,  491-493. 
"        sheikh,     tombstone     of, 

240. 
"       excitement  among,  near 

Bozrah,  80. 
"        on  the  east  shore  of  the 

lake  of  Tiberias,  129. 
"       in  the  Zerka  valley,  390. 
"       their  business,  474. 
"        skulls,    search    for,   485, 

486. 
"        skidls,  measm-ements  of, 

487. 
"       their  dead,  496. 
"        graves,  497. 
*'        wives  of,  cost  of,  500, 510. 
"        generosity,  500. 
"        cleanliness,  500. 
"        women  of  the,  503  et  seq. 
"        conversation,  512. 
"        story-telling,  513. 
"       curious     names    among, 

514. 
"       how  they  may  be  reached 
by  education  and  Chris- 
tianity, 514,  515. 
Beirut,  cholera  in,  1. 

"      gi-owth  of  the  city,  3. 
"      schools,  3. 


INDEX. 


539 


Beii'ut,  mission  press,  4. 
'■      Chi'istiauity  in,  4. 
"      importation  of  petroleum,  5. 
"      other  commodities,  5. 
"      exports,  G. 

"      for     what     celebrated     in 
historical  times,  7,  8. 
Beit  er  Ras,  identified  with  Capi- 

tolias,  298,  '297. 
Beke,  5:52. 

Bei'vllns,  of  Bozrah,  54. 
Bethabara,  198,  199. 
Beth-Aram,  site  of,  383,  384. 
Beth  Gamul,  thought  by  some  to  be 
identical  with  Um  el  Jemal,  86. 
Beth  Haran,  now  Tell   er   Eama, 

230. 
Bethmaus,  460. 
Beth  Nimrah,  site  of,  384. 
Bethsaida,  the  Eastern,  458. 
Betonim,  3i)8,  369. 
Biblical     sites    in    Western     and 

Eastern  Palestine,  530. 
Bii'd,  Rev.  Isaac,  522. 
"      Rev.  William,  525. 
"     kindness  of  his  family,  9. 
Birds  collected,  133,  176,  179. 
Birim,  Kefr,  svnagogue  at,  465. 
Birket  el  'Ai-aies,  145,  153. 
Bish'ra,  storm  at,  353. 
Bitumen,  mines  at  Hasbeiya,  6. 
Blood  feuds  among  the  Bedawin, 

483. 
Boats  on  the  Dead  Sea,  239. 

"    on  the  lake  of  Tiberias,  130. 
Boheira,  a  Christian  monk  at  Boz- 
rah, who  assisted  Mohammed 
in  writing  the  Koran,  54. 
Bostrian  Era,  when  dated,  55. 
Bozrah,  described ;  several  places 
of  this  name ;  Mohammed  at ; 
Origen  and  Beryllus ;  its  cathe- 
dral, reservoirs  and  cisterns ; 
masons'  marks,  castle  and  bev- 
elled stones,  theatre,  inscrip- 
tions, 53-58. 
Bridge,  below  the  lake  of  Tiberias, 
in  ruins,  139. 
"       natural,   on    Wady   Ham- 
met  Abu  Dhableh,  183. 
"       near  the  Damieh  ford,  423. 
"       over  Wady  'Allan,  324. 
"       over  Wady  H'reir,  334. 
Building  material  in  the  Hauran, 

generally  basalt,  58,  66. 
Burak,  an  episcopal  city,  antiqui- 
ties of,  its  reservoirs,  22,  23. 


Biu'ckhardt,  lava-beds  described 
by,  13,  531. 

Burma,  280,  281. 

Buttauf,  El,  plain  of,  130. 

Butterwortli,  Mr.,  of  Michigan,  in- 
terested in  the  mines  of  Pales- 
tine, 210. 

Byzantine  architecture,  67,  71,  73. 

Callirrhoe,  248. 

"         and    Zerka   M'ain,    de- 
scribed by  Dr.  Tris- 
tram, 249. 
Camels,  large  herds  of,  2')2,  475. 
"        employed    by  the    Mecca 

pilgrims,  340. 
"        mortality  among  the,  344. 
"        food  of,  192. 
"        large  numbers  of,  195. 
"        at  Bozrah,  stolen  and  re- 
taken, 80. 
Camp,  at  Tiberias,  124. 

"      duties  quite  exacting,  144. 
"     life  and  experience,  92  c^seg. 
"      process  of  breaking,  217. 
Capernaum,  302,  455. 
Capitolias,  identified  with  Beit  er 

Ras,  296. 
Caravans,  pilgrim,  described,  time, 
number    of    pilgrims, 
camels,    expense     of, 
335-345. 
"        routes   from   Damascus 
to  Bagdad,  346. 
Castle,  ancient,  at  Bozrah,  56. 
"      at  Kunawat,  37. 
"      at  Amman,  265. 
"      at  Salchad,  50. 
"      wide  view  from  the  summit 
of,  53. 
Cathedral  at  Bozrah,  54,  71. 
Cattle,  fat,  115. 
Caves  at  Dra'a,  349-352. 

"     in  the  hill  at  Tiberias,  126. 
"     of  hot  air,  126. 
"     of  immense  size,  at'Ai'ak  el 
Emir,  108,  109. 
Cells  in  the  rocks  near  the  Jabbok, 

375. 
Chaplin,  Thomas,  M.  D.,  of  Jeru- 
salem, skill  and  kind- 
ness of,  105. 
"        courtesy  of,  110,  413. 
Chickens,  price  of,  376. 
Children  of  the  Bedawin,  502. 
Cholera,  Arabs  afraid  of,  402. 
"        in  Beii'ut,  1. 


540 


INDEX. 


Cholera,  severe  in  Tiberias,  134. 
Chosroes  never  visited  Palestine, 

2r)9  ct  seq. 
Christian,  Mr.  Charles,  313. 
Christian  remains  at  Um  cl  Jemal, 
84,  85. 
"        society   and  life  in  the 

East,  68,  69. 
"        symbols  in  the  ornamen- 
tation of  buildings,  70, 
71. 
Christianity,  its  stronghold  in  Bei- 
rut, 4,  8. 
''  influence  on  art,  67. 

Church    at   Edlir'a,   antiquity  of, 
built  on  the  site   of  a 
heathen  temple,  29. 
''         described,  30,  71. 
"        Byzantine,     at    Amman, 
264. 
Churches,  in  Bashan,  518. 
Cistern  at  Suleim,  33. 
Citadel-hill  at  Tiberias,  127. 
Cities,  buried,  in  Palestine,  517. 
"        in  the  Jordan  valley,  448. 
Cities  of  the   Plain,    site   of,  dis- 
cussed, 232  et  seq. 
Cleanliness  of  the  Bedawin,   500, 

501. 
Cloak,  native,  comfort  of,  122, 135. 
Coffee  of  the  Bedawin,  479. 
College,  Syrian  Protestant,  2. 
Conversation  of  the  Bedawin,  512. 
Conder,  Lievit. ,  attack  on  his  party 

at  Safed,  124. 
Cook,  instructing  a,  in  his  art,  134. 

"      peculiar  habits  of,  93,  !M. 
Cook's  parties,  described,  209. 
Copper   implements,   taken    from 

old  tombs,  115. 
Costigan,  531. 
Councils  at  Bozrah,  presided  over 

by  Origen,  54. 
Crater,  extinct,  near  El  Jish,  465. 
"      castle  in  the  mouth  of  a, 

at  Salchad,  50. 
"      near  Shuhba,  35. 
"      numbers  of,  14,  16. 
Cyclopean  work,  518. 

"  structures    at  Kirateh, 

30-32. 
"  walls  at  Irbid,  294. 

Dale,  Lieiit.,  531. 

Damascus    and   Bagdad,   caravan 

routes  between,  346,  347. 
Damieh  ford,  camp  at,  khan  at,  198. 


Danger  in  travelling,  41G. 

"      from  outlaws  near  the  Jor- 
dan, 111. 

Dead,  little  respect  for  the,  among 
the  Bedawin,  496,  497. 

Dead  Sea,  how  regarded  by  the 
classic  writers,  361. 
''  driftwood  in,  223. 

Decapolis,  cities  of  the,  298. 

Derala,  the  Talmud  name  for  Suc- 
coth,  387. 

Desert,  not  necessarily  barren,  80, 
81. 

Dew,  heavy  in  certain  sections,  92. 

Dhulail,  Wady,  396,  397. 

Dion,  site  of,  298. 

Dionysias,  an  episcopal  city,  iden- 
tified with  Suweideh,  49. 

Dogs,  as  protectors,  378. 

Dolmens,  231,  324,  439,  518. 

Dra'a,  caves  at,  349-352. 

Drake,  Charles  F.  T.,  531. 

Dumas,  Mr.  T.  E.,  9,  89. 

Duncan,  Corporal  James,  531. 

Dusares,   or  Bacchus,  representa- 
tion of,  at  'Ary,  49. 

Duweir,   on    the   Menadireh,   140, 
3U0. 

Eagle-gull,  133. 

Earthquakes  in  SjTia,  8. 

East,  the  far,  and  Moab,  possible 

communication  between,  268, 

269. 
Eddy,   Eev.   Dr.    and    family,    at 

Sidon,  114,  314. 
Edgar,  Hon.  J.  T..  U.  S.  Consul  at 

Beirut,  2,  112. 
Edhr'a,    desei'ibed ;    situation   of ; 

does  it  correspond  to  Edreil 

ruins  of  ;  church  at ;  26-30. 
Edrei,  may  correspond  with  Edhr'a, 

27-29. 
Eidun,  292. 
English  pastor,  experience  of  an, 

219. 
Episcopal  cities,  list  of  those  iden- 
tified, 58,  59. 
Es  Salt,  camp  at,  195. 

"       dogs,  196. 

"       fine  vineyards,  196. 

"       church  ai,  196. 

'*       peculiarities  of  the  audi- 
ence, 197. 

"       described,  mission  school, 
eonvent,fountain, 88-91. 

"       a  Turkish  garrison  at,  102. 


INDEX. 


541 


Es  Salt,  affords  uo  comforts  for  the 
sick,  10-2. 
"       canuot  be  Eamoth  Gilead, 
287. 
"Evangelist,"  New  York,  418. 
Exhibition,  Centennial,  in  Amer- 
ica ;  Syria  interested  in,  209. 
Expedition,    an,    involves   careful 

preparations,  112. 
Exploration   of    Palestine ;    hard- 
ships connected  with, 
369,  .530. 
"  lives  lost  in  carrying 

on,  531,  532. 
Exploration    of  Palestine,  impor- 
tance of,  532. 
Exploration  Society,  American  Pal- 
estine, 2. 
"  Advisory   Committee 

of,  8. 
Exports  and  imports  at  Beirut,  5, 6. 

Fagaris,  or  Fakaris,  426,  438. 
Farming  among  the  Bedawin,  how 

carried  on,  476,  477. 
Feast,  attending  a  Bedawin,  480- 

482. 
Fellah,    Sheikh,    of    the    Adwan, 
visit  from,  90. 
"       letter  from,  to  Dr.  R.  D. 
Hitchcock,  417,  418. 
Ferry  on  the  Jordan,  111,  220. 
Fever  in  Syria,  a  terrible  disease, 

106,  532. 
Field-glass,  experiments  of  Arabs 

with  a,  499. 
Fig-tree   containing  old  fruit,   at 
Tiberias,  seen  on  the  20th  of 
February,  129. 
Fik,  examined,  145. 
"     identified  with  Aphek  of  the 

Bible,  163  ct  ^eq. 
"    ruins  of,  161,  162. 
"    reception  at,  163. 
"    view  from,  322. 
"    a  large  town,  ruined  by  the 
government,  323. 
Fish,  in  the  Zerka,  399. 

"     from  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  441. 
"     abundant      in      the      large 
streams,  441. 
Food  of  the  Bedawin,  478. 
Forests  in  Palestine,  191. 
Francolin,  beautiful  game-bird  in 
the  Jordan  valley,  204, 417, 423. 
Fruit-trees  in  Wady  'Ajhm,  374. 
Fuel,  using  a  plough  for,  255. 


Fusail,  corresponds  to  Phasaelis, 
203. 

Gadara,  examined,  145. 

"        site  of,  view  from,  ruins, 
tombs,  theatres  at,  153- 
158,  174. 
Gadda,  suggestion  as  to  site  of,  270. 
"       identified  with  Yajiiz,  277. 
Galilee,  a  rich  country,  454. 
"Galilee  in  the  Time  of  Christ," 
Dr.  Zeller's  confirmation  of  its 
statements,  132. 
Galilee,   Sea    of,   beauty   of    the, 
318. 
"  "      dear  to  the  Chris- 

tian, 454. 
"  "      situation  of,  435. 

"  "      Journey  about  the, 

455  et  seg. 

"  "      a  focus  of  life,  460. 

"  "      Sabbath     enjo3'ed 

beside  the,  137, 

138. 

Gamala,   examined,  145,  161,  164, 

165,  459. 
Gates  of  a  city  do  not  necessarily 

imply  walls,  436. 
Gazawiyeh  Arabs,  186. 
Generosity  of  the  Bedawin,  500. 
Gennesaret,  plain  of,  317,  456,  457. 
"  irrigation  of,  300. 

"  meeting  a  friend  at, 

301. 
Geology,    of   the    Hauran   region, 
170. 
"        of  Jebel  Osha,  205. 
"        of  the  Lower  Zerka,  395. 
Gerash,   visited ;    triumphal   arch, 
gates,  temples,  chiu-ches 
at;  a  city  of  columns, 
281-284. 
"       Greek  inscriptions  found 
at,  99. 
Gergesa,  site  of,  459. 
Ghawarineh  Arabs  and  the  Beda- 
win, 170. 
Ghor,  Lower,  198,  199,  203. 
Gibraltar,  2. 

Gilead,  both  a  city  and  a  district, 
288,  289. 
"       hills    and  beautiful   land- 
scapes of,  292. 
"       diversified  scenery  of,  356, 
372. 
Glass,   iridescent,  from   tombs  at 
Sidon,  114,  521. 


542 


INDEX. 


Goblan,  Sheikh,  241. 

' '  his  marriage,  275. 

Golan,  site  of,  324-328. 
Gomorrah,  site  of;  see  Cities  of  the 

Plain. 
Graham,  Cyril  C,  78. 
Grain,  method  of  storing,  139,  140, 
477. 
"     stored  near  a  tomb,  180. 
Grapes,  of  Beirut,  7. 
"       at  Es  Salt,  196. 
"       of  Syria,  91. 
Graves,  stealing,  497. 

Hajeijeh,  428. 

"        a  beautiful  cascade  and 
region,  188,  189. 
Halamish,  327. 

Halawi,  and  Ed  Deir  Halawi,  187. 
Hamma,  El,   or  hot  springs  near 

Gadara,  141,  296-299. 
Hammond,  Rev.  Mr.,  visiting  Ne- 

bo,  232. 
Hasban,  view  from,  over  the  Belka, 
241. 
"       visit  to,  106. 
Hauran,  architecture  of,  described, 
60  et  seq. 
"       reference  to,  in  the  Assyr- 
ian records,  75. 
''       desert,  the  name  explain- 
ed, 467. 
"       plain,  richness  of,  333. 
Head  with  rays  and   crescent   at 

'Atil,  47. 
Health  in  the  Jordan  valley,  431, 
432. 
"       preservation  of,  532. 
Heat,  at  Khan  Minieh,  464. 

"     oppressive  in  the  Jordan  val- 
ley, 101,  203,  224,  424,  429. 
"      sirocco,  102. 
Hermon,  Mount,  grand  appearance 
of,  124. 
"  "       view  of  the  Jordan 

valley  from,  431. 
Herod  Antipas,  rebuilt  what  is  now 
Tell  er  Rama,  231. 
"      at  Livias,  363. 
' '      feast  of,  when  John  the  Bap- 
tist was  beheaded,  .384. 
Herod  the  Great,  built  Phasaelis, 
2U3. 
"      connected  with  Si'a,  43. 
"      statue  of,  at  Si'a,  45. 
'r      springs   visited  by,  in  his 
last  illness,  251. 


Herod    the    Great,    subduing    the 
robbers  in  Trachonitis,  14. 
Herod  Philip,  buried  in  the  East- 
ern Bethsaida,  458. 
"      governs  Trachonitis,  20. 
Hieromax,    now    the    Menadireh, 

140. 
Hills  of  the  Foxes,  140. 
Hippos,   identified   with    Fik,    133 

et  seq. 
Hiram,  tomb  of,  116. 
Hitchcock,  Rev.  Dr.  R.  D.,  letter 

of  Sheikh  Fellah  to,  417,  418. 
Home,  what  the  word  means  to  an 

Arab,  470. 
Hornstein,  Mr.  M.,  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean  Hotel    in    Jerusalem, 
kindness  of,  106. 
Horseraansliip,  art  of,  218,  220. 
Horses,  Syrian,  sagacity  of,  135. 
Horseshoe,  Syrian,  1.35.   • 
Hospitality  of  the  Bedawin,  488  et 

seq. 
Hotel,  the  Mediterranean,  in  Jeru- 
salem, 105. 
"     ancient,  at  Phaena,  20. 
Hot  springs,  east  of  the  Dead  Sea, 
251. 
"  "        on    Wady    Hammet 

Abu  Dhableh,  183. 
"  "        at  the  mouth  of  the 

Zerka,  193. 
Houses,  fine  ones  at  Um  el  Jemal, 
83. 
' '       manner  of  building,  84. 
Huleh  basin,  appearance  of,  315. 
Hunin,  116. 

'•      rough   experience   at,    117, 
121. 
Hunter,  a  volunteer,  only  frightens 

the  game,  138. 
Hunting,  Arabs  do  but  little,  476. 
Husn,  El,  or  Gamala,  101. 

"       village  of.  Christian  fam- 
ilies at,  353. 
"        storm  at,  354,  355. 
"        castle  at,  354. 
Hyrcanus,  palace   of,  at  'Ai'ak  el 
Emir,  109. 

Ibrahim  Effendi,  commander  at 
Bozrah,  interested  in  antiqui- 
ties, 79. 

Ibrahim  Pasha,  destroys  reser- 
voirs at  Burak,  23. 

Ichneumons,  179. 

Imports  and  exports  of  Beiriit,  5,  6. 


INDEX. 


543 


Insects,  143. 

"       in  the  Jordan  valley,  200. 
Inscriptions   fi'om  Eastern  Pales- 
tine, 518,  521. 
"  careful  search  for,  98, 

99. 
"  at  'Atil,  4fi,  48. 

"  at  Beit  er  Ras,  297. 

"  found  at  Bozrah,  57. 

"  at  Dra'a,  352. 

"  from  the  Hauran,  71. 

"  from  Irbid,  293,  294. 

"  at  Musmieh,  19,  20. 

"  at  Salchad,  50,  51. 

"  found  at  Shuhba,  35. 

"  Palmyrene,  found  at 

Suweideh,  49. 
"  at  Suleim,  33,  34. 

''  at  Um  el  Jemal,  84. 

"  in  honor  of  Herod  the 

Great  at  Si'a,  45. 
Ii'bid,  described ;  Roman  ruins,  in- 
scriptions ;    Cyclopean  walls ; 
ancient  jar  from,  293-296. 
Irrigation,  453. 

"         native  methods  of ,  13.5. 
"         in    the   Jordan   valley, 

177,  180,  427,  430. 
"  of  the    valley   of    the 

Jabbok,  382. 
Island,  a  large  one  in  the  mouth  of 
the  Jordan,  223. 

Jabbok,  or  Zerka,  exploration  of, 

381-383,  392-398. 
Jabesh,  name  preserved  in  Yabis, 

325. 
Jabin,  scene  of  his  defeat,  317. 
Jazer,  fertility  of  the  region  about, 

404,  405. 
Jeba'a,  mines  at,  465. 
Jebel  Osha,  remarkable  view  from, 

194,  279. 
Jemal,  Um  el,  visited,  78  et  seq. 
Jennani,  camp  on  the  bank  of  the, 

10. 
Jephthah,  3R8. 
Jericho,  363,  365,  429. 

"       road  from,  to  Jerusalem, 
412. 

"       remains  of  ancient,  221. 
Jessup,  Rev.  Dr.  H.  H.,  8. 
Jews  in  Jerusalem,  414. 

"     in  Tiberias,  134,  318. 
Jirm  el  Moz,  Pella  situated  on  the, 

184. 
Jish,  El,  465, 


Jisr  Benat  Y'akub,  303,  304. 
"   el  Khardeli,  314. 
"   Mejamia,  452. 
Job,  country  of,  55. 
Jordan,  boats  on  the,  239. 
"      crossing  the,  300. 
' '      strange  experience  in  cross- 
ing the,  104. 
"      crossing  the,  on  a  raft,  320- 

322. 
"       exit  of,  from  the  Lake  of 

Tiberias,  138. 
"       valley,  as  it  appears  from 
the  Gilead  hills, 
360-365. 
"  "       character    of,    429, 

430. 
"  "       Bedawininthe,  172, 

174. 
"  "       climate  of  the,  178. 

"  "       hixuriant      vegeta- 

tion, 178. 
"  "       wheat  fields,  180. 

"  "       irrigation,  180. 

"  "       weeds  and  thistles, 

181. 
"  "       the      opening      of, 

southward,  grand 
sight,  133. 
Jubeiha,  ruins  of,  278. 
Julias,  now  Tell  er  Rama,  231. 
Jungle,  at  M'Khaibeh,  146. 

"       trees  and  shrubs  in,  147. 
Jungles    along    the    Jordan,    203, 
204. 

Kabu,  El,  near  Gadara,  ruins  of  a 

fine  temple,  157. 
Kana,  116. 

"      relics  at;    a  Christian  vil- 
lage, 119. 
Kaukab  el  Hauwa,  174. 
Kedes,  121. 

"      violent  storm  at,  121,  306. 
Kefrein,  probably  Abila,  407. 
Kefr  Harib,  160. 

"        "       basalt    formation    at, 
169. 
Kenatli,    of   the   Bible,   identified 

with  Kunawat,  36. 
Kerak,  the  site  of  Tarichea,  138, 
460. 
"      strength  of  the  place,  300. 
•  Khan  el  'Akabah,  322. 

"     Khulda,  ruins  near,  113. 

"     Minieh,  299-302,  457. 

"         'i        a  buried  town,  302. 


544 


INDEX. 


Khubab,   a  Christian  village,   de- 
scribed, 24-26. 
Kirateh,  described,  30. 

"        Cyclopean   structures  at, 
30-32. 
Kulat    er  Eubad,   view  from,   de- 
scribed,  359- 
365. 
''        "        "         age  of  the  cas- 
tle, 375. 
Kulat  Zerka,  270,  397. 
Kunawat,   described ;   remarkable 
situation ;    the   Keuath 
of  the  Bible  ;  its  ruins, 
temples,  theatre ;  antiq- 
uities, 36-42. 
''  inscription  from,  64. 

"  De   Vogiie's   comments 

on,  76. 
Kurkama,  187. 

Labor,  native  methods  of,  the  re- 
sult of  experience,  134,  135. 
Land  slides,  453. 
Laiuie,  Rev.  Dr.  Thomas,  247. 
Lava-bed,  in  Bashan,  11  et  seq. 
"       "     peculiar  features  of,  12, 

13. 
"       "     resort  of  robbers,  13. 
"       "     testimony  of  Strabo  and 
Josephus,  J  3,  14. 
Legal  measures,   meaning  of  the 
term  to  the  Turkish  officials, 
200. 
Lejah,  corresponds  to  Argob,  char- 
acter of,  11  et  seq. 
Leopards     Iseeoming     extinct    in 

Syi-ia,  204. 
Lewis,  Prof.  E.  E.,  9,  89. 
Livias,  and  Herod  Antipas,  363. 
Locusts,  42L 
Luynes,  Due  de,  248. 
Lynch,  Lieut.,  361. 

Maccabeus,  Judas,  364. 
Madeba,  ruins  of,  252. 
Mahanaim,  284. 

"  site  of,  433-439 

Mahneh,  355-357,  436. 
Maklub,  188,  440. 
Malta,  2. 
Manual    labor,    despised    by    the 

Bedawin,  476. 
Mashra'a  Cana'an,  or  Canaan's  ford, 
391,  392. 
"        Nusraniyet,  a  ford  of  the 
Jabbok,  279,  393. 


Masons'  marks  from  Bozrah,  55. 
"  "      at  El  Hamma,  151. 

Mazarib,  mills  at,  small  lake,  cas- 
tle, rendezvous  of  the  pil- 
grims, 334,  335,  337. 

Mediteri'anean,  charming  Aaews  of 
the,  310. 

Mejdel,  456. 

Menadireh,  splendid  gorge  below 
Hot  Springs,  141. 

Merchants  go  as  pilgrims  to  Mecca, 
342. 

Merj  'Ayun,  beautiful  region,  309, 
315. 

Metaweleh,  prejudices  of,  306. 

Mills,  run  by  hot  water,  146,  149. 
' '    in  Wady  'A jlun,  374. 

Mill-stones,  464. 

"  quaiTied  in  the  Lejah, 

25. 
"  remaining  in  a  quarry, 

190. 
''  no  connection,  as  one 

wi'iter   claims,  with 
Baal  worship,  247. 
"  of    great   size   on  the 

Shittim  plain,  231. 

Mirages,  in  the  Hauran,  349. 

"        in  the  Jordan  valley,  178. 

Mission  at  Sidon,  114. 

"      school  at  Es  Salt,  88. 

Missionary  labor  among  the  Beda- 
win, possibility  of,  508,  514, 
515. 

M'Khaibeh,  a  tropical  paradise,  143. 
"  described,  146. 

Moab,  visit  of  the  German  Consul 
to,  414. 

Moabite  stone,  excitement  among 
the  Ai-abs,  274. 

Mohammed  visits  Bozrah,  54. 

Mohammedanism,  contrast  be- 
tween, and  Christianity,  506. 

Molyneaux,  Lieut.,  361,  531. 

Monument  of  Khami'ath,  at  Suwei- 
deh,  48,  49. 

Mounds,  or  tells,  in  the  Jordan 
valley,  193,  448  ct  seq. 

Mountain  summits,  remarkable 
^dews  from  some,  132. 

M'Shita,  palace  described  ;  doubt- 
ful if  built  by  Chosroes ; 
conclusions  of  Tristram, 
Fergusson,  and  George 
Rawlinson,  256-263. 
"  may  have  been  a  convent, 
263. 


INDEX. 


545 


Musmieh,  Tui'kisli  soldiers  at,  22. 
"         described,  its  situation, 

temple,     inscriptions, 

16-22. 
"         an  episcopal  city,  21, 
"         capital   of   Traehouitis, 

19. 
"         camping-gi'ound  at,  21. 

Nabathean    inscriptions    at    Kefr 
Harib,  169. 
"  inscriptions  at  Beit  er 

Eas,  29?,  518. 
Nabatiyeh,  308,  309,  314. 
Names,  repetition  of,  27. 
Nawa,  324,  326,  3i8,  330. 
Nazareth,  and  Dr.  Zeller,  130. 

"  growth  of  the  town,  1 31. 

Neapolis,  not  identical  with   Su- 

leim,  33. 
Nebo,  visit  to,  106,  242. 
"      site  of,  242  ct  seq. 
"      parties   who    have   visited, 
244,  279. 
Neveh,  327,  328. 
Night,    experience    of    travelling 

during  the,  103. 
Nimr,  Sheikh,  tomb  of,  275. 

Obeideh,  Abu,  365, 

Og,  King,  capital  of,  27. 

Origen,  presides  at  one   or  more 

councils  held  at  Bozi'ah,  54.  , 
Ostrich,  an,  in  Jerusalem,  415, 

Palanquin,  sick  friend  carried  in  a, 
102, 
"         described,  103, 
"         hardships  of  the  men  in 

charge  of,  105, 
"         cost  of,  108. 
Palestine,  Eastern,  size  of,  9. 

"         diversified    scenery    of, 

317,  318. 
"         a  region  of  great  fertil- 
ity, 468. 
"         exploration  of,  516,  517. 
Palm-trees,  142,  146. 

'*  camp  of  the,  172,  175, 

176. 
Papyrus,  at  Khan  Minieh,  464. 

"        in  the  Huleh,  465. 
Partridges,  method  of  hunting  de- 
scribed, 94,  95. 
Pella,  184. 

"      ruins  and  tombs  of,  185. 
"      site  of,  442-447. 


Pella,  an    asylum    for  the   Chris- 
tians, 463. 
Penuel,  site  of,  390-392. 
Perea,  the  province  one  of  great 
interest,  442. 
''       Christ  visiting,  462,  463. 
Persians,  doubtful  if  the  palace  at 
M'Shita  was  built  by  the,  260, 
Petroleum,     American,     imported 

into  Beirut,  5. 
Phaeua.     See  Musmieh. 
Phiala,  Lake,  14. 
Philip,   the    Emperor,   called    the 

Arabian,  34. 
Philippopolis,       identified       with 

Shuhba,  34  ct  seq. 
Phoenician  burying-ground,  119. 

"  idol,  522. 

Photographs,  taken  by  the  Ameri- 
can Society,  92. 
Physician,  or  lialciin,  how  regarded 

by  the  Bedawin,  512. 
Pierson,  Rev.  Isaac,  301. 
Pilgrims,  Russian  and  other,  visit- 
ing the  Jordan,  220. 
"         caravans  of,  to   Mecca, 

333  et  seq. 
"         special    outfit    required 

by,  337. 
"        numbers,  339. 
Pisgah,  doubtful  if  it  is  a  proper 
name,  242  et  seq. 
"        testimony  of  the   Arabs, 
245. 
Pits,     near    Wady    Nimrin,     de- 
scribed, 207. 
"       legend  connected  with,  225- 
227. 
Plateau  east  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee, 

159,  ]60. 
Pomegranates  at  Jericho,  221, 
Pompey,  364. 

Post,  Rev.  George  E.,  M.  D.,  2. 
Pottery,  black  the  prevailing  kind 
at  Um  el  Jemal,  Sii. 
"       reference  to,  in  the  Tal- 
mud, 86. 
Press,  the  Mission,  in  Beirut,  in- 
fluence of,  4. 
Presents,  among  the  Bedawin,  495, 
"        Arab  proverb  respecting, 
90. 
Probus,  the  Emperor,  71. 
Ptolemy,  quoted,  29. 

Quarantine  about   the   Mediten'a- 
nean,  2, 


546 


INDEX. 


Quarries  near  Amman,  254. 

"       at  Yajuz,  274. 

"  ancieut  buildings  and 
towns  serve  as,  for 
building  material,  G2. 

"  on  the  coast,  which  sup- 
ply Beirut,  1 14. 

Rain,    singular    experience     con- 
nected with,  92. 
Rajib,  Wady,  374. 
Ramath  Mizpeh,  site  of,  365-369. 
Ramoth  Gilead,  identified  with  G-e- 

rash,  284-290. 
Ras  el  'Ain,  near  Tyre,  117. 
Ravens'  nests  described,  271. 
Rebellion,    a    so-called,    at    Mus- 

mieh,  explained,  22. 
Reeds  for  pens,  394. 
Refuge,  cities  of,  situation,  287. 
Relics  in  Moslem  countries,  muti- 
lation of,  41. 
Religion  of  the  Bedawin,  495  et  scq. 
Remtheh,  poor  water  at,  101. 
Remains,  ancient,  near  Kulat  Zer- 

ka,  270. 
Reservoirs,  at  Burak,  23. 

"  and  cisterns  at  Bozrah, 

55,  56. 
"  at  'Arak  el  Emir,  107, 

103. 
"  at  Madeba,  252. 

Retem  bush,  143,  144. 

"  "     Arab   romance    con- 

nected with,  144. 
"  "     on  the  Zerka,  394. 

Richter,  Otto  F.  von,  531. 
Road,  the  Haj,  described,  343. 
"      between  Jericho  and  Jerusa- 
lem, 105. 
"      from  Gamala  to  Fik,  161. 
' '      slippery  and  dangerous  after 
a  rain,  227. 
Roads,  Roman,  no  perfect  sections 
in    Western    Palestine, 
115. 
"      from  Tiberias  to  the  Hot 

Springs  of  Gadara,  141. 
"      from  El  Hamma  to  Gadara, 

153,  154. 
"      from  Bethshean  to  Damas- 
cus, 322. 
' '      from  Capernaum  to  Damas- 
cus, 455. 
"      near  Irbid,  296. 
"      along  the  Jabbok,  397. 
"      iu  the  Lejah,  15,  21. 


Roads,  from  Pell  a  to  Gerash,  185, 

356,  357,  440,  445. 
Robbers,  devices  to  conceal  prop- 
erty from,  26. 
'•        iiighway,      among      the 
Bedawin,  493. 
Robinson,    Dr.    Edward,    on    the 

Cities  of  the  Plain,  237. 
Roman  arch,  nearly  perfect,  span- 
ning a  stream  near  Tyre,  115. 
Roman  baths  at  El  Hamma,  142. 
"  "      seats  in,  150. 

'■'         legions,  stationed  at  Phae- 

na,  19,  20. 
"  "        atUmelJemal,84. 

Roth,  Dr.  J.  R.,  531. 
Routes  fi"om  the  sea-coast  to  Da- 
mascus, 314. 
"       and    distances    from    Fik 

eastward,  324. 
' '      from  Nawa  southward,  331 , 

332. 
"       fi'om  El  Husn  southward, 

355. 
"       from  Tubakat  Fah'l  to  'Ain 
Jenneh,  440. 
Rubber  boots,  132. 
Ruins  in  the  Jordan  valley,  where 

situated,  189. 
Ruth,  the  Moabitess,  468. 
Ruwalla,  the,  Ai-abs,  255. 

Sabbath  by  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  46?. 
Safed,  122. 

"      night    experience    at,    122, 

123. 
"      old  castle  ■\dsited,  view  from, 
124. 
Sakhr,  the  Beni,  252,  253. 
Salchad,  described,  stone  houses, 
castle,  inscriptions,  EO- 
53. 
"        in  Biblical  history,  52. 
"        castle  of,  333. 
"        Um  el  Jemal  seen  from, 
79,  81. 
Sar,  Khurbet,  an  old  battle-ground, 
484. 
"  "         the    Biblical  Jazer. 

round    tower    at, 
405. 
Sarcophagi  of  lead,  522. 
Sarepta.     See  Zarephath. 
Sartabeh,  Kurn,  visit  to,  200. 
"  description  of,  201. 

"         castle  on,  201. 
"         splendid  view  from,  202. 


INDEX. 


547 


Sauley,  De,  248. 
Schaff,  Eev.  Dr.  Philip,  412. 
Schick,  Conrad,  of  Jerusalem,  413. 
Schools  in  Beirut,  3. 
Sculpture  near  Tjtc,  mentioned  by 
Dr.    Wm.    M.    Thomson    and 
others,  120. 
Seetzen,  531. 

Sefuriyeh,  situation  of,  131. 
Semakh,  Wady,  459. 

"  "       on    the    Lake    of 

Tiberias,  139, 
Seminary,  American  young  ladies', 

in  Beirut,  3. 
Sheikh  'Ali  Diab,  241. 

''       Musa,  described,  170. 
Shapira,  Mr.,  in  Jerusalem,  415. 
Shittim  Plain,  208,  407. 

"  "      exploration  of   the, 

222. 
"  ''       character  of,  223. 

Shuhba,  described,  identified  with 
Philippopolis,     its     buildings, 
streets,  and  theatre,  34-36. 
Shukif,  castle  of,  309. 

"      large  stones,  314. 

Si'a,    described ;    connected    with 

Herod    the    Great ;    beautiful 

ruins,  inscriptions,  temple,  43- 

46. 

Siaghah,   curious    history   of    the 

name,  245. 
Sick  companion,  88,  90. 
^'  "  experience  in  car- 

ing for,  and  in 
taking  to  Jeru- 
salem, 100  ct  seq. 
"  "  .  his  suffering,  105. 

Sidon,  camp  at,  114. 

"      mis'sion  and  schools,  114. 
"      labors  of  Dr.  Eddy  in,  314. 
Sidr-trees,  189. 

Silk  crop,  not  a  certain  one,  113. 
"       "      production  of,  in  Syria, 
7,8. 
Simon.  Rev.  Mr.,  native  preacher 

in  Es  Salt,  196. 
Sirocco,  113. 

"        very  trying,  299. 
Slaves,  brought  from  Mecca  by  pil- 

gi-ims,  342,  343. 
Smallpox,  402. 
Smith,  George,  532. 
Snow  on  the  summit  of  Hermon, 

91,  92. 
Sodom   apple-tree,    or  'oshir,  206, 
207,  227. 


Sodom,    Sea    of,    Arabic    writers 
quoted  on,  238,  239. 
"         site  of,  see  Cities  of  the 
Plain. 

Soldiers,  Tiu'kish,  as  travelling 
companions,  116. 

Sponge  fisheries  on  the  Sjaian 
coast,  7. 

Springs,  hot  sulphur,  near  Gadara, 
142;  temperature  of  the  hot- 
test, 142;  of  the  others,  109; 
of  the  one  at  M'Khaibeh,  146. 

Stables  at  'Ai-ak  el  Emir,  110. 

Stewart,  Captain,  532. 

Storm  on  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  162. 

Stone  projectile,  ancient,  de- 
scribed, 524. 

Strabo,  describes  Trachonitis,  13. 

Streets,  broad,  at  Um  el  Jemal, 
83. 

Style  of  the  Hauran  buildings,  65. 

Succoth,  363. 

"        site  of,  385-388. 

Suez  Canal,  effect  of,  on  Orientals, 
7,  336,  338. 

Suf,  sheikh  of,  494. 

Suleikhat,  Wady,  428. 
"  ruin,  438. 

Suleim,  described,  its  temple,  cis- 
terns, ancient  name,  32-34. 

Sulphiu"  deposits  along  the  Jordan.. 
229. 

Sumner,  Rev.  C.  E.,  visiting  Nebo, 
232. 

Sunbird,  230. 

Susitha,  Jewish  name  for  Hippos, 
167. 

Suweideh,  described,  extensive 
ruins,  an  episcopal  city,  48,  49. 

Syi'ia,  terribly  oppressed  and 
afflicted,  209,  210. 

Syi'ian  desert,  character  of,  61. 

Swine,  wild,  in  wheat  fields,  422. 
476. 
"      destructive  to  crops,  396. 

Tabor,  Mount,   Greek   and  Latin 
convents  on,  131. 
"       old      church      discovered 
there,  131. 
Tax  collectors,  357,  358. 
Tell  Ammata,  374,  389. 
"    Arb'ain,  172,  182. 
"    Damieh,  view  fi"om,  199,  421. 
423;   an  Ai'ab  explains  the 
meaning  of,  424. 
"    Deir  'Alia,  375,  376. 


r...u 


INDEX. 


Tell  Deir  'Alia,  the  site  of  Succotli, 
387. 
Ektanu,  230,  236. 
El  Hammam,  231. 
Hum,  302,  303,  458. 
Mallaha,  306. 

Nimrm,  camp  at,  206,  207. 
er  Eama,  224. 

"  should  be    excava- 

ted, 230. 
"     S'bur,  camp  at,  306-308. 
Tells    in    the    Jordan   valley  de- 
.     scribed ;  are  artificial ;  an- 
tiquities t'ovmd  in ;  specu- 
lations as  to  the  purpose 
of,  448-451. 
"      on  the  Shittim  Plain,  235. 
Temples  at  Amman,  264,  265. 
"       at 'Atil,  46,  47. 
"       at  Gerash,  283. 
"       at  Kunawat,  38,  39. 
"       at  Musmieh,  16. 
' '       at  Si'a,  of  Baal  Samin,  AQ>. 
"       at  Suleim,  32. 
"       at  Thelthatha,  91. 
"       pagan,     converted     into 
churches,  67. 
Tents  and  caravans  in  the  desert, 
468. 
"       of  the  Bedawin,  469,  470. 
Tent-life,  characteristics  of,  expe- 
riences in,  211  ct  seq. 
"         tents  described,  212. 
"         furniture  of,  212. 
"         meals  and  food  in,  213, 

214. 
"         animals,  214. 
"         weapons,  214. 
"         loss  of  sleep  in,  215. 
"         donkeys  and  their  bray- 
ing, 215-217. 
"         mending  clothes,  220 
Terra-eotta  coffins,  521. 
Tharsila,  site  of,  327. 
Theatres,  at  Amman,  398,  399,  403. 
"         at  Bozrah,  56. 
"         two  large  ones  at  Gada- 

ra,  152,  156. 
"         at  Gerash,  282. 
"         at  El  Hamma,  152. 
"         at  Kunawat,  38,  39. 
"         at  Shuhba,  35,  36. 
Thelthatha,  temple  at,  91. 
Thermometer,  record  of,  136. 
Thomson,    Eev.   Dr.   William   M., 
invited  to  go  to  Moab,   208, 
229,  230,  278,  311. 


Thomson,  Henry  W.,  113,  278. 
Thunderstorms,  305. 
Tiberias,  ruins  of  the  old  city  of, 
125,  319,  456. 
"        lake  of,  height  of  water 

in,  varies,  128. 
"        belt  of  level  land  about, 
129. 
Tibnin,  116,  120. 
Tomatoes,  extensive  use  of,  94. 
Tombs,     at     Gadara,     numerous. 
154. 
"      described,  155. 
"      cared    for    and     gi'ounds 

about  beautified,  158. 
"      at  Bella,  184,  185. 
"      ancient  Jewish,    at   Tibe- 
rias, 128. 
Towers,   ancient,   at   Rawnak,    at 
Khurbet  Sar,  405. 
"       Roman,  299. 
"       at  Kunawat,  37. 
"       round,  in  the  Lejah,  15. 
Towns  and  cities  of  Syria,  ruined, 
nearly  perfect,  68,  70. 
"      south  of  Bozrah,  81. 
Trachonitis,  13. 

"  capital  of  the,  m,  20. 

"  boimdary  of,  53. 

"  the    Emperor    Philip 

from,  34. 
Trade   among  the   Bedawin,    474, 

475. 
Trajan,  the  Emperor  Nerva,  aque- 
duct at  Suweideh  built  by,  48. 
Transportation,      extensive ;     the 
business  of,  a  regular  profes- 
sion, 96. 
Travellers,   singular   character  of 
some  who  visit  Pal- 
estine, 211. 
''  seldom   A'-enture    east 

of  the  Jordan,  467. 
Tribes,  Arab,  distance  traveled  by 

in  a  day,  473. 
Tristram,  Rev.  Dr.  H.  B.,  249,  494. 
Tseil,  324,  327. 

Tubakat    Fah'l,     identified    with 
Bella,  184. 
"  situation  of,  442. 

Tulul  edh  Dhahab,  390-392. 
Tunnel,  natural,  near  the  Zerka, 

192. 
Turkish  soldiers,  interviews  with, 
200,  291. 

Urn  Keis,  299.    See  Gadara. 


INDEX. 


549 


Vau  Dyek,  Rev.  Dr.  C.  V.  A.,  8. 
"  Henry    L.,    providing 

game  for  oiu'  table, 
94. 
"  companion  and  assist- 

ant, 113,  312. 
Vespasian,  364. 
Villa,  near  Gadara,  157. 
Villages,  on  the  Huleh  plain,  307. 
Vineyards,   in  the   north  part   of 

Moab,  268. 
Vogiie,  De,  on  the  architecture  of 
the  Haiu'au,  60  et  seq. 
"  criticisms  upon,  74-77. 

Vultures,  griifou,  147. 

Walls,   how    overlaying    material 
was  fastened  to,  400. 
"        of  a  city,  none  about  Um 
el  Jemal,  82. 
War  engines,  for  throwing   stone 

projectiles,  527-529. 
Warren,  Captain  Charles,  249,  450, 

451,  517. 
Wars  of  the  Bedawin,  482  et  seq. 
Watercom-ses,  always  prized,  291. 

"  in  the  Lejah,  14. 

"Waters  of  Nimrim,"  384. 
Water,  suffering  for  want  of,  101. 
"        scarcity  of,  a  gi'eat  calam- 
ity, 210. 
Watering-place,  El  Hamma  could 
be  made  an  attractive  one,  153. 
Weapons,  careless  use  of,  413. 
Weights,  ancient,  521. 
AVeser,   Pastor  H.,  of  Jerusalem, 

110. 
Wetzstein,  J.  G.,  on  the  caves  at 

Dra'a,  350-352. 
Wheat,  the  finest  in  Syi"ia  comes 
from  Bashan,  91. 
"        in  the  Jordan  valley,  427. 
"       roasted  ears  of,  422. 
"        harvest,   near  Tell  Hum, 
304. 
Wheat  fields,   in  the  Jordan  val- 
ley, 179,  180,  192. 
"  in  the  valley  of  the 

Jabbok,  395. 
William  of  Tyre,  describes  a  cave, 

13. 
Wine,  of  Beirut,  7. 


Wives  of  the  Bedawin,  500. 

"  "  cost  of,  510. 

Woleott,  Rev.  Dr.  Samuel,  on  the 
question  of  Pisgah,  247, 
249. 
"        on    the     Cities    of    the 
Plain,  237. 
Women  among  the  Arabs,  503  et 
seq. 
"      do  not  eat  with  the  men 

at  a  feast,  48 1 . 
"      position  of,  a  menial  one, 

505. 
"      special  work  of,  506. 
"      passion  for  jewelry,  508. 
''      dress  of,  509. 
"      young  women,  509. 
"      making     reed     mats     at 

M'Khaibeh,  147. 
"      in  the  Lejah,  occupations 

of,  26. 
"       in  Syria,   progress  made 
in  educating,  3. 
Wright, Rev.  W.,  describes  around 
tower,  15. 
"      on  antiquities   at  Burak, 

22. 
"      on  the  method  of  hunting 
partridges,  94,  95. 

Yabis,    Wady,    wild    scenery    of, 
187. 
"         no  road  or  path  along, 
187,  188,  373,  426. 
Yadiidi,  349. 

Yajiiz,  described ;  situation ;  Ro- 
man Avork,  sculptures ;  Sheikli 
Nimr's  tomb ;  identified  with 
Gadda,  273-277. 
Yarmuk,  now  the  Menadireh,  140. 
Yugaua,  or  Yukana,  on  the  Mena- 
direh, 140. 

Zaphon,  site  of,  388-390. 
Zarephath,  now  Surafend,  116 
Zeller,    Rev.   Dr.  J.,  of  Nazareth, 

130,  131. 
Zerka,  or  Jabbok,  fertility  of  the 
valley,  269. 
"      mouth  of  the,  192. 
Zoar,  site  of,  233,  236,  237. 
Zuggum-tree,  185. 


A   NEW    EDITION    NOW   READY    OF 

j^ssgFifln   BisrobFpiFS-. 

An  Account  of  Explorations  and  Discoveries  on  the 
Site  of  Nineveh  during  1873  and  1874. 

By  GEORGE    SMITH, 

Late  of  the  Department  of  Oriental  Antiquities^  British  Museum. 

V^ith  Slaps,  AVood-Cuts,  and  Photographs.  One  Vol.    8vo. 

Cloth,  $4.00. 


OPINIONS    OF    THE    PRESS. 

From  the  N.  Y.  Daily  Tribune. 

"Mr.  Smith  appears  to  have  engaged  in  his  work  with  equal  ardor,  perseverance, 
•nd  good  judgment.  His  habits  as  a  scholar  have  not  impaired  his  efficiency  as  a 
practical  man.  The  recital  of  his  experience  is  marked  by  frankness,  modesty,  and 
great  intelligence." 

From  the  St.  Louis  Democrat. 

"The book  reveals  much  of  the  hitherto  hidden  history  of  the  Assyrian  empire,  and 
shows  that  its  people  were  wise  in  many  things.  The  maxims  translated  from  the 
records,  and  the  curious  devices  and  pictures  brought  to  the  earth's  surface,  give  us  a 
clearer  knowledge  of  the  character  of  the  people  that  inhabited  that  nation  than  we  have 
gained  from  any  other  soiuce.  *  *  *  It  is  a  work  of  great  importance,  and 
will  be  welcomed  by  all  scholars  and  antiquaries." 

From  the  TV.   Y.  Fveiiittg  Post. 

"Mr.  Smith's  book  is,  in  clearness  and  accuracy,  all  that  could  be  wished  ;  himself  a 
great  authority  on  Assyrian  antiquities,  he  has  prepared  a  work  which  no  person  who  has 
studied,  or  mtends  to  study,  this  fascinatmg  subject  should  fail  to  read." 

From   the  Cincinnati  Commercial. 

"  Tt  is  in  the  hope  that  these  rich,  first  fruits  of  investigation  will  stimulate  Inquiry, 
and  induce  the  British  Government  to  take  hold  of  the  matter,  and  bring  its  influence  to 
bear  in  such  a  manner  upon  the  Ottoman  Government  as  to  secure  its  co-operation  in 
prosecuting  a  thorough  system  of  investigation,  that  we  close  Mr.  Smith's  absorbingly 
interesting  book." 

From  the  Watchman  and  Reflector. 

"His  book  is  a  simple,  straightforward  record  of  what  he  accomplished,  written  not 
to  catch  the  applause  of  the  ignorant,  but  to  inform  the  wi.^e  and  the  thoughtful.  The 
narrative  of  personal  experience  is  interesting,  without  trace  of  straining  for  sensational 
effect.     But  the  chief  value  of  the  work  is  for  its  account  of  things  accomplished.'" 


*^*  For    sale   by    all   booksellers,    or   sent,  post-paid,  upon    receipt   of 
price,  by 

CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S   SONS,  Publishers, 

743  AND  745  Broadway,  New  York. 


JLUTHOBIZED    A.M£:jtICAN    EDITION, 


■  (i\m\m  InsliMons: 

ESSAYS    ON    ECCLESIASTICAL    SUBJECTS. 
By  A.    P.    STANLEY,    D.D., 

Late  Dean  of  IVe.itminster. 
One  vol.,  cro'wn  8vo,  Library  Edition,  $2.50  ;  Students'  Edition,  75c. 


The  work  includes  chapters  upon  Baptism,  the  Eucharist,  the  Euchar- 
ist in  the  Early  Church,  Eucharistic  Sacrifice,  the  Real  Presence,  the 
Body  and  Blood  of  Christ,  Absolution,  Ecclesiastical  Vestments,  Basilicas, 
the  Pope,  the  Litany,  and  the  Belief  of  the  Early  Christians. 


"  They  have  all  an  antiquarian,  historical,  and  practical  interest,  and 
are  treated  in  a  very  liberal  and  very  attractive  style.  Dean  Stanley  is  a 
genius  as  well  as  a  scholar,  and  has  a  rare  power  of  word-painting.  His 
History  of  the  yewish  Church  and  of  the  Easterti  Church  are  as  inter- 
esting and  entertaining  as  a  novel.  He  always  seizes  on  the  most  salient 
points,  and  gives  them  an  artistic  finish.  He  avoids  all  pedantry  of  learn- 
ing, and  all  tedious  details. " — Dr.  Schaff  in  The  Critic. 


DEAN    STANLEY'S    OTHER   WORKS. 


THE  HISTORY  OF  THE  JEW^ISH 

Church.     With  maps  and  plans. 

Vol.  I.  FROM  ABRAHAM  TO 
Samuel.      Crown  Svo,  $2.50. 

Vol.  n.  FROM    SAMUEL  TO  THE 

Captivity.     Crown  Svo,  $2.50. 

Vol.  III.  FROM  THE  CAPTIVITY 
to  the  Christian  Era.  With  maps. 
Crown  Svo,  $2.50. 

THE  HISTORY  OF  THE  CHURCH 

of  Scotland.     Svo,  $1.50. 


THE    HISTORY    OF    THE    EAST- 

ern  Church.  With  an  Introduction 
on  the  study  of  Ecclesiastical  History. 
Crown  Svo,    $2.50. 

WESTMINSTER  EDITION  OF 
the  History  of  the  Jewish  Church. 
Handsomely  printed  on  superfine  paper, 
and  tastefully  bound.  Three  vols.,  Svo. 
(.Sold  in  sets  only.)     I9.00. 

THE  LIFE  AND  CORRESPOND- 
ence  of  Thomas  Arnold,  D.D.,  late 
Head  Master  of  Rugby  School.  2  vols, 
in  one.     Crown  Svo,  $2.50. 


***  For   sale   by   all  booksellers,    or    sent,    post-paid^    upon    receipt    of 
price,  by 

CHARLES   SCRIBNER'S   SONS,  Publisher.s, 

743  AND  745  Broadway,  New  York. 


The  Religions  of  China, 

CONFUCIANISM  AND  TAOISM    DESCRIBED  AND  COM- 
PARED  WITH  CHRISTIANITY. 

By     JAMES      LEGGE, 

Professor  o/  the  Chinese  Language  and  Literature  in  the  University  of  Oxford. 


One    voluine,   12mo,        -  -        $l.SO. 


Professor  Legge's  work  is  by  far  the  most  simple  and  easily 
comprehended  exposition  of  Chinese  religions  that  exists,  and 
is  remarkable  for  its  freedom  from  a  polemic  bias,  and  for  the 
easy,  confident  touch  of  a  man  whose  mind  is  saturated  with 
his  subject  and  at  home  in  every  branch  of  it. 


"The  entire  volume  deserves  a  wide  and  attentive  reading." — Chicago  Tribune. 

"  Prof.  I-egse  is.  perhaps,  the  highest  authority  on  all  matters  connected  with  a 
knowledge  of  the  Chinese  hterature  and  philosophy.'' — Richinond  Central  Presby- 
terian. 

"  Prof.  Legge's  work  is  a  remarkably  instructive  and  critical  contribution  to  our 
knowledge  of  the  Chinese." — St.  Louis  Central  Christian  Advocate. 

"As  the  work  of  perhaps  the  first  of  scholars  in  all  that  pertains  to  China,  we  heartily 
commend  this  book." — Buffalo  Courier. 

"For  the  scholar  and  the  minister  who  desire  information  about  the  religions  of  the 
largest  nation  on  earth,  and  who  are  likely  to  play  an  important  part  hereafter  in  the 
history  of  the  world,  it  is  an  important  publication." — Richmond  Southern  Churchman. 

"  In  this  volume  Prof.  Legge  presents  the  results  of  careful  study,  with  a  clearness  of 
style  and  method  which  entitles  him  to  the  gratitude  of  readers  who  are  mterested  in  the 
study  of  comparative  religions." — Boston  Daily  Journal. 

"Nowhere  else  is  so  clear  a  detail  of  the  distinctive  features  and  characteristics  of 
the  Chinese  religions  given,  and  nowhere  else  are  the  contrasts  and  similarities  between 
them  and  the  Christian  religion  brought  within  a  more  compact  compass."— 

Albany  Journal, 

"Prof.  Legge's  philological  discussions  are  extremely  interesting,  and  his  reasoning 
close  and  fascinating.  Incidentallv  he  gives  us  an  insight  into  the  social  and  family  re- 
lations of  the  Chinese,  which  are  involved  in  and  governed  by  the  duties  and  obligations 
imposed  by  religion." — Waterbury  American. 


*^*  For    sale   by    all   booksellers,  or    sent,   post-paid,  upon    receipt    of 
price,  by 

CHARLES   SCRIBNER'S   SONS,  Publishers, 

743  AND  745  Broadway,  New  York. 


The  Origin  and  Growth  of  Religion,  as  Illustrated  by 

THE  RELIGION  OF 

ANCIENT  EGYPT. 

By  P.   LE    PAGE    RENOUF. 

(The  Hibbert  Lectures  for  iSyg.J 


One  volurYie,   12mo,       -        -        -        -        -        -        -        $l.SO 

M.  Le  Page  Renouf's  great  reputation  as  an  Egyptologist  led  to  his 
selection  to  deliver  the  second  course  of  the  already  celebrated  Hibbert 
series  His  lectures  are  the  fit  companions  of  Professor  Muller's,  both  in 
learning  and  in  interest.  The  glimpses  laboriously  gained  by  the  aid  oi 
long  undeciphered  hieroglyphics  into  one  of  the  most  mystical  and  profound 
of  all  the  ancient  beliefs,  have  always  had  a  special  fascination  ;  and  the 
time  has  now  come  when  it  is  possible  to  join  their  results  into  a  fairly 
complete  picture.  Done  as  this  is  by  M.  Renouf,  with  a  certain  French 
vividness  and  clearness,  it  has  a  very  unusual,  and,  indeed,  unique  interest. 


CRITICAL     NOTICES. 

"  The  narrative  is  so  well  put  together,  the  chain  of  reasoning  and 
inference  so  obvious,  and  the  illustration  so  apt,  that  the  general  reader 
can  go  through  it  with  unabated  interest." — Hartford  Post. 

"  No  one  can  rise  from  reading  this  book,  in  which,  by  the  way,  the 
author  is  careful  about  drawing  his  conclusions,  without  having  increased 
respect  for  the  religion  of  ancient  Egypt,  and  hardly  less  than  admiration 
for  its  ethical  system." — TAe  Church7nan. 

"  These  lectures  are  invaluable  to  students  of  Egyptology,  and  as  the 
religion  of  ancient  Egypt  stands  alone  and  unconnected  with  other  religions, 
except  those  which  have  been  modified  by  it,  itself  being  apparently  original 
and  underived,  they  should  be  highly  interesting  to  all  students  of  religious 
history.  .  .  .  It  is  impossible  in  a  brief  notice  to  convey  an  adequate 
idea  of  Professor  Renouf  s  admirable  lectures." — N.  Y.  World. 

"  The  present  work  forms  a  remarkably  intelligent  and  acutely  critical 
contribution  to  the  history  of  the  origin  and  growth  of  religion,  as  illustrated 
by  the  religion  of  ancient  Egypt.  As  a  specialist.  Professor  Renouf  is  able 
to  bring  forth  much  information  not  ordinarily  accessible  to  the  general 
reader,  and  this  he  does  in  such  a  carefully  digested  form  as  to  make  the 
work  entertaining  and  instructive  in  the  highest  degree." — Boston  Courier. 


*^*  For    sale    by    all    booksellers,    or  sent,    post-paid,  upon    receipt    of 
price,  by 

CHARLES   SCRIBNER'S  SONS,  Publishers, 

743  AND  745  Broadway,  New  York. 


THE  ORIGIN  OF  NATIONS 

By    Professor    GEORGE    RAWLINSON,    M.A. 


One    Volume,  12mo.     With  majis,    .        .        .        $1.00. 

The  first  part  of  this  book,  Early  Civilizations,  discusses  the  antiquity 
of  civilization  in  Egypt  and  the  other  early  nations  of  the  East.  The 
second  part.  Ethnic  Affinities  in  the  Ancient  World,  is  an  examination  of 
the  ethnology  of  Genesis,  showing  its  accordance  with  the  latest  results  of 
modern  ethnographical  science. 


"An  attractive  volume,  which  is  well   worthy  of  the  careful  consideration  of  every 
reader." — Obset-zjer. 

"A  work  of  genuine  scholarly  exxellence.  and  a  useful  oflset  to  a  great  deal  of  the 
superficial  current  literature  on  such  subjects." — Co'igregatiotialist. 

''  Dr.  Rawlinson  brings  to  this  discussion  long  and  patient  research,  a  vast  knowledge 
and  Intimate  acquaintance  with  what  has  been  written  on  both  sides  of  the  question." — 

Brooklyn  CJition-A  rgus. 


THE  DAWN  OF  HISTORY. 

AN    INTRODUCTION   TO    PRE-HISTORIC    STUDY. 
Edited    by    C.    F.    KEARY,    M.  A., 

OF   THE   BKITISH    MUSEUM. 


One    Volume,   12rno.,  -  -  -  $1.2  5. 

This  work  treats  successively  of  the  earliest  traces  of  man  in  the 
remains  discovered  in  caves  or  else'where  in  different  parts  of  Europe  ;  of 
language,  its  growth,  and  the  story  it  tells  of  the  pre-historic  users  of  it  ; 
of  the  races  of  mankind,  early  social  life,  the  religions,  mythologies,  and 
folk-tales  of  mankind,  and  of  the  history  of  writing.  A  list  of  authorities 
is  appended,  and  an  index  has  been  prepared  specially  for  this  edition. 


"The  book  may  be  heartily  recommended  as  probably  the  most  satisfactory  summary 
of  the  subject  that  there  is." — Nation. 

"A  fascinating  manual,  without  a  vestige  of  the  dullness  usually  charged  against 
scientific  works.  ...  In  its  way,  the  work  is  a  model  of  what  a  popular  scientific 
woik  should  be  ;  it  is  readable,  it  is  easily  understood,  and  its  style  is  simple,  yet  dig- 
nified, avoiding  equally  the  affectation  of  the  nursery  and  of  the  laboratory." — 

Boston  Sat.  Edc.  Gazette, 

'■•i^'  For  sale  by  all  booksellers^  or  sent,  post-paid,  itpon  receipt  ef 
price,  bv 

CHARLES    SCRIBNER'S    SONS,  Publishers, 

743  AND  745  Broadway,  New  York. 


THE    POETICAL    WORKS 


RICHARD  HENRY  STODDARD. 

JVit/i  a  Portrait  from   a  photograph  by   Sarony. 
Ejigraved  by   Kruell. 

1  vol.,  8vo.,  pp.  512.    EicWy  printed  and  bound,  full  gilt,   -  $4.00. 

CRITICAIi    NOTICES. 

"Mr.  Stoddard  is  a  very  graceful  writer;  his  fancy  is  delicate,  but  never  offends  by 
puerility,  and  the  reader  cannot  look  through  the  volume  without  being  struck  by  the 
wide  range  of  his  muse." — The  Christian  at  Work. 

"  In  an  examination  of  this  large  and  superb  volume,  one  remarks  the  uncommon 
versatility  of  measure,  which  a  careful  reading  proves  united  with  uniformity  of  ease  and 
harmony,  the  thought  seeming  to  be  poured  out  as  musically  in  one  form  as  another." — 
The  Literary  World. 

'"As  Vk-e  turn  these  clean  pages,  we  read  again  some  of  the  sweetest  songs  that  have 
been  written  in  our  time,  songs  of  gaiety  or  of  sadness,  but  songs  always  natural  and 
having  m  them  the  indefinable  quality  of  genius.  Whatever  it  is,  the  songs  are  gems  cut 
with  an  art  nearly  faultless  and  sparkling  with  an  inborn  lustre." — Hartford  Cotiratit. 

"The  quantity  of  poetical  work  Mr.  Stoddard  has  done  is  no  less  remarkable  than 
its  fine  quality.  He  is  never  careless,  never  writes  unless  he  has  something  to  say,  never 
says  it  unless  with  genuine  poetic  taste  and  tenderness.  His  works  amply  deserve  the 
beautiful  setting  they  have  been  vouchsafed  in  this  volume." — Boston  Saturday 
Kz>e7iing  Gazette. 

"The  original  power,  deep  sentiment,  tragic  pathos,  and  admirable  artistic  execution 
of  Mr.  Stoddard's  poems,  give  them  the  assurance  of  a  long  date  in  the  higher  literature 
of  his  country.  He  may  claim  recognition  among  the  supreme  poets  of  the  land  without 
challenge  or  doubt.  His  progress  from  the  beginning  has  been  as  conspicuous  as  his 
genius  is  exquisite  and  rare.  His  fame  reposes  on  true  excellence  in  the  poetic  art,  which 
is  the  most  certain  passport  to  perennial  renown." — N.  Y.  Tribune. 

"All  this  is  only  saying,  in  another  way,  that  Mr.  Stoddard  is  a  poet  by  nature  and 
not  by  mere  choice.  His  poems  have  been  the  spontaneous  expressions  of  a  deeply 
poetic  nature.  They  have  been  written  because  the  poet  ha,s  had  need  of  poetic  utterance, 
because  he  has  had  something  to  say  that  was  poetic  in  substance.  The  form  of 
the  utterance,  metre,  the  imagery,  and  the  words,  have  been  chosen  simply  for  their 
fitness  to  give  adequate  expression  to  the  thought  and  mood  of  the  poet,  and  without 
care  upon  his  part,  apparently,  for  any  little  prettinesses  of  their  own.  It  is  thus  that  a 
strong  man  of  rugged  but  tender  nature  writes  poetry." — N.  Y.  Evetting  Post. 


*^*  For    sale    by    all    booksellers,    or    sent,  post-paid,  t/po?i    receipt    of 
■brice,  by 

CHARLES   SCRIBNER'S   SONS,  Publishers, 

743  AND  745  Broadway,  New  York. 


